Here are the parts and tools that I used in this video: Axle Seal (03-18 Wrangler): amzn.to/3p0Ui1X Axle Locker Plug (JK Rubicon): amzn.to/34tur9E Axle Seal Install Tool (Dana 30 & 44): amzn.to/3vvwKEQ Differential Gasket Dana 30: amzn.to/3fsobFc Differential Gasket Dana 44: amzn.to/3fxALTU RTV: amzn.to/3fXfmCB Gear Oil: amzn.to/3wJB0AY Astro "Big Nasty" Air Hammer: amzn.to/3fxe8P6 My Amazon Store: www.amazon.com/shop/repairgeek Help support the channel, buy using my Amazon links As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases and your cost is exactly the same.
Nice work! I also snapped my Rubicon clip when doing mine. One step you're going to want to remember with the locker - when reinstalling the carrier, you need to fully extend that plunger near the pinion. Use a little dowel attached to some fishing line to hold it open. Once the carrier is installed you can pull on the line to remove your dowel. People forget to do this and end up bending the plunger
@@jvasq16 it's what allows the vehicle to understand whether the locker is engaged or not. If this isn't seated properly you're going to have a bad time
My Son noticed a wet streak on the inside of my front passenger tire before leaving from Church tonight. I’ve got it to do. Your video was great! Excellent job! Made me realize one thing, without a lift, somebody else will get the satisfaction of a job well done; I have no desire to roll around on the gravel drive wrestling with pinion gears!
My 2010 came from Canada as well, learning that most the parts needing replaced is harder to find in the states. Mainly everything need has need to be rewired
I agree. A breaker bar would actually be good to get those 12 point sockets out of the wheel bearing go nice and slow and make sure they're nicely seated. Should be good to go.
good job,im not sure with the plunger switch on the electric, i have pneumatic rubicon locker so im not sure on your.really want a electronic torque wrench.good video!!
Dielectric grease on connectors will assist in preventing broken fittings. I swear jeep must commission brittle fitting because never in my life have i broken so many so easily
Well mine is leaking and I thought I would fix the seal UNTIL I saw I had to take out the diff as well as the other axle. I will leave that to someone with a lift. That would be a very hard job on jack stands.
Those 12 point x 3 bolts on the hub assembly are the biggest challenge here. I’m in the rust belt in Canada, underestimated them bolts and stripped one. I had to weld a nut on it afterwards with whole bunch of swearing and cursing. Still a mystery to me why they had to put a 12 point bolts there so close to the ground and likely to rust easily.
I cut off the backs of the bolts, penetrating oil, and pounded on the 18pt sockets, the bolts came out pretty easy... you really only get one shot when they are rusted that bad
you forgot to push your locker switch on inside or rather hold the switch out with a little wood piece on string or do you have to do that on the electric type so you know if your locked or un locked?
Hi, thank you for this video! A Jeep dealer replaced the axle shaft and axle seals on my Dana 44 with Trac-Lok and a few hundred miles after I got it back the Jeep started grinding a little and making a loud rotational noise. They told me pinion bearing and carrier bearings need to be replaced and they were misaligned. They said this is just a coincidence and not related to their work. Just wondering if this is true or are they just trying not to take responsibility for the damage?
It depended on what failed first. If the carrier bearings failed first, that probably wiped out the pinion bearings. If the pinion went first it took out the carriers. Unfortunately there is no way to PROVE what went out first. If the carrier bearings were destroyed first, 100% they probably mixed up the shims. You would have had noise in the front end basically as soon as you got it back I would think...
Other videos from DIYer, invariably skip adding RTV to the seal before pressing them in, thanks for the clarification. Getting ready to r&r my 04 Rubicon front... From the video being a 2014, it appears the axle lock actuator is now electronic vs. pneumatic in my generation. Do I need to take any additional steps removing the carrier w/ the pneumatic actuated locker? To confirm: leave the lock sensor alone? Do you have an opinion re aftermarket outer seals? Thanks!
The spicer seals come with a red sealant ring, so the rtv isn't necessary depending on what you use. JEEP uses these seals on dana44 axles and is a pita to remove and clean off.
What about the plunger behind the locker? Do you need to do anything with that when removing? I seen people put a tooth pick in between it with a piece of string then when the carrier is installed they yank on the string and pull the tooth pick out?
No but if you have noticed oil puddling at the end of your diff it would be a great time to do it, I’m getting ready to do these seals and ball joints, just waiting on parts
Just got back from a wheeling trip and when i was looking everything over i noticed a pretty bad leak coming from around the area where the front drive shaft meets the back of the dana 30. Is that a bad seal?
I was thinking about that, as well. Maybe some lengths of PVC pipe would probably work, or maybe even an old broom handle. I ordered a 36" pry bar but it'll arrive after I need it (of course).
I've had good luck with these for a standard .401 shank: amzn.to/34AJU7z The air hammer I was using in this video is a .498 shank. It is much harder on bits. I haven't found any chisel that will keep an edge in that size.
![Megan Thee Stallion - Neva Play (feat. RM) [Official Video]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/TpYTyAaTRts/mqdefault.jpg)
Here are the parts and tools that I used in this video:
Axle Seal (03-18 Wrangler): amzn.to/3p0Ui1X
Axle Locker Plug (JK Rubicon): amzn.to/34tur9E
Axle Seal Install Tool (Dana 30 & 44): amzn.to/3vvwKEQ
Differential Gasket Dana 30: amzn.to/3fsobFc
Differential Gasket Dana 44: amzn.to/3fxALTU
RTV: amzn.to/3fXfmCB
Gear Oil: amzn.to/3wJB0AY
Astro "Big Nasty" Air Hammer: amzn.to/3fxe8P6
My Amazon Store: www.amazon.com/shop/repairgeek
Help support the channel, buy using my Amazon links
As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases and your cost is exactly the same.
Excellent descriptions, general commentary, and lighting. No unnecessary fluff. Well done video.
Nice work! I also snapped my Rubicon clip when doing mine. One step you're going to want to remember with the locker - when reinstalling the carrier, you need to fully extend that plunger near the pinion. Use a little dowel attached to some fishing line to hold it open. Once the carrier is installed you can pull on the line to remove your dowel. People forget to do this and end up bending the plunger
What does the plunger do?
@@jvasq16 it's what allows the vehicle to understand whether the locker is engaged or not. If this isn't seated properly you're going to have a bad time
Ah I see. I didn't hold the plunger open when replaced the gears but it still locks. Light doesn't blink so I hope it's good
@@jvasq16 okay good! Sounds like it works. But if you have issues down the line, look there first
Awesome. Thanks a lot!!
Came for the differential removal, and stayed for the oil fart. Thanks!
Well I'm attempting this today on my d44. Your vid just made it easier! Glad I read the comments about the dowel for the plunger in the back
That tool to press in the seal is AMAZING. Buying that for sure!
My Son noticed a wet streak on the inside of my front passenger tire before leaving from Church tonight. I’ve got it to do. Your video was great! Excellent job! Made me realize one thing, without a lift, somebody else will get the satisfaction of a job well done; I have no desire to roll around on the gravel drive wrestling with pinion gears!
Great video dude I love your work ethic. You really know your stuff. Thank you again.
My 2010 came from Canada as well, learning that most the parts needing replaced is harder to find in the states. Mainly everything need has need to be rewired
While I’m fixing this I’m going to be constantly repeating to myself, quite angrily, “this is why we don’t go 90 on the freeway” lol
Wow am happy that you are using the same procedure I use at my garage
Life saver of a video.
Love the time stamps!!
You sir are a champ. Love the video and thanks for the amazon links as well. Wish you continued success.
very thorough neat job. Great explanation.. Thanks for sharing!
I agree. A breaker bar would actually be good to get those 12 point sockets out of the wheel bearing go nice and slow and make sure they're nicely seated. Should be good to go.
Thank you for the helpful video👍
Your camera work answered some questions!!!
Great job thank you I’m doing this on Sunday
Great job and good video
Super helpful! About to do this to my 08.
good job,im not sure with the plunger switch on the electric, i have pneumatic rubicon locker so im not sure on your.really want a electronic torque wrench.good video!!
Man what a great video! Very detailed and good info, thank you!
👍🏽 good job I’ll be watching
Links used, thanks very much for the video.
Great job! Very thorough.
You can use a set of shim drivers to install the shims separately from the differential. The tool is made for that specific use.
Thanks for great video 🙏🏻
I've got the same shirt. Love me some Roadkill!
A breaker bar helps a lot !
Dielectric grease on connectors will assist in preventing broken fittings. I swear jeep must commission brittle fitting because never in my life have i broken so many so easily
You are AWESOME!! Thanx
Superb video!
Well mine is leaking and I thought I would fix the seal UNTIL I saw I had to take out the diff as well as the other axle. I will leave that to someone with a lift. That would be a very hard job on jack stands.
It's not too awful bad. Reinstalling the carrier with shims outside of the bearings is the hardest part.
Very nice video,, explain very well,.. thanks for helping,, here's my subscription and my 👍
Wow amazing job, you're very talented.
Those 12 point x 3 bolts on the hub assembly are the biggest challenge here. I’m in the rust belt in Canada, underestimated them bolts and stripped one. I had to weld a nut on it afterwards with whole bunch of swearing and cursing. Still a mystery to me why they had to put a 12 point bolts there so close to the ground and likely to rust easily.
I cut off the backs of the bolts, penetrating oil, and pounded on the 18pt sockets, the bolts came out pretty easy... you really only get one shot when they are rusted that bad
All that rusted and no signs of anti-seize sinful in my neck of the woods😧
Would have just got a lubelocker gasket and painted that Diff cover.
Whynot just take the break router off a d leave tje caliper on it?
you forgot to push your locker switch on inside or rather hold the switch out with a little wood piece on string or do you have to do that on the electric type so you know if your locked or un locked?
I replaced my axle seals last year and I had to use a dowel and fishing line in order to push it in before putting the differential in place
Hi, thank you for this video! A Jeep dealer replaced the axle shaft and axle seals on my Dana 44 with Trac-Lok and a few hundred miles after I got it back the Jeep started grinding a little and making a loud rotational noise. They told me pinion bearing and carrier bearings need to be replaced and they were misaligned. They said this is just a coincidence and not related to their work.
Just wondering if this is true or are they just trying not to take responsibility for the damage?
It depended on what failed first. If the carrier bearings failed first, that probably wiped out the pinion bearings. If the pinion went first it took out the carriers. Unfortunately there is no way to PROVE what went out first.
If the carrier bearings were destroyed first, 100% they probably mixed up the shims. You would have had noise in the front end basically as soon as you got it back I would think...
Great video.
The seals you took out, were they the 2 part seals?
Other videos from DIYer, invariably skip adding RTV to the seal before pressing them in, thanks for the clarification. Getting ready to r&r my 04 Rubicon front... From the video being a 2014, it appears the axle lock actuator is now electronic vs. pneumatic in my generation. Do I need to take any additional steps removing the carrier w/ the pneumatic actuated locker? To confirm: leave the lock sensor alone? Do you have an opinion re aftermarket outer seals? Thanks!
The spicer seals come with a red sealant ring, so the rtv isn't necessary depending on what you use. JEEP uses these seals on dana44 axles and is a pita to remove and clean off.
What about the plunger behind the locker? Do you need to do anything with that when removing? I seen people put a tooth pick in between it with a piece of string then when the carrier is installed they yank on the string and pull the tooth pick out?
Instead of fighting the tie rod, just take off one of the nuts on either end and move it out of the way?
Very Good video
I m changed front seals but still leak oil comming from driver side 😳 driveshaft ?! Croocked?
Tube is bent or your vent is clogged. It's also possible that you damaged the new seal during assembly.
so is this required when doing ball joints? i know it would be the best time to ever do this but the extra work...
No but if you have noticed oil puddling at the end of your diff it would be a great time to do it, I’m getting ready to do these seals and ball joints, just waiting on parts
I got the same issues mechanic says 2k to get it fixed is that right estimate for this job??
Can you use a differential seal/gasket in place of the RTV?
You can.
@@RepairGeek Can you use both. I'm doing this project this coming weekend
@@tonylopez345 Yes. Some folks will put a little RTV on the gasket to hold it in place, on the non-rubber side.
I need to do this repair, thank you for making this video. Will the axle seal install tool stop when the seal is fully seated?
Yes.
Great video! I just popped my ring gear out and the shims fell out, I don’t t know which one is left and right! Any suggestions???
This is my biggest concern about trying this myself. How did you make out putting it back together?
@@nhmtb i bought a cheap dial indicator and put the shims in until I was within spec. Wasn’t too bad.
Question so reinstalling the differential do I leave the pin that sticking out or push it in? I’m guessing it’s for the locker
Pin? What's is the time in the video so I can see what you're talking about.
@@RepairGeek 14:35
@@carlosdiaz655 that pin did not move. I just left it alone. I didn't do anything with it.
@@RepairGeek ok cool thank you! Looks like a smooth installation for this weekend 👌🏽
How long did this take from start to finish?
Just got back from a wheeling trip and when i was looking everything over i noticed a pretty bad leak coming from around the area where the front drive shaft meets the back of the dana 30. Is that a bad seal?
Yep sounds like the pinion seal.
How many shims go on each side ?
You think I could use my jack handles to pop out the old seals
I was thinking about that, as well. Maybe some lengths of PVC pipe would probably work, or maybe even an old broom handle. I ordered a 36" pry bar but it'll arrive after I need it (of course).
If the outer seal is the problem, is there a problem with only changing that seal, or is it necessary to go into the gears and change the inner seal?
There is no "outer" seal. Only inner.
Only rear axles have the outer seal, so those won't also have an inner seal.
Hey brother where can I find bits for Impact hammer but thicker, heavy dutty,,,thanks
I've had good luck with these for a standard .401 shank: amzn.to/34AJU7z
The air hammer I was using in this video is a .498 shank. It is much harder on bits. I haven't found any chisel that will keep an edge in that size.
Go on job geeks as all ways
👍🏻💯🇦🇺⛽️
Great video, dont worry about the elocker plugs they always break they are $10 each crown part number J112271