Great video but unfortunately I can't find it for my 2016 Wrangler on your website. I guess you no longer have it? I was hoping to buy from 1AAUTO again.
+Pete V Thank you for the great reply. We love to empower our customers by showing you how-to perform your own auto repairs while installing our high quality auto parts. Have a great day! 1aauto.com
Sue's pretty much the only woman in my life that has saved me money. Thousands of dollars between her videos here. Thanks A1 auto for highlighting her ability and thanks Sue for being so good at what you do.
This video is fantastic! Great explanation. Perfect audio. Nice lighting. Camera work that isn't distracting. Tight editing. And just enough music volume. Thank you for all of the work you all put into this!
+Jacob Labor Thank you! We love empowering our customers and showing how to perform DIY auto repairs with our high-quality auto parts. 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
Nice job. Very concise and thorough step by step. I have only one question though. What happens to seal when the clean dry steel axle starts rotating inside the brand new DRY rubber seal as it goes down the road before the axle lube gets out to the end of the tubes to lubricate it?? I was taught in Arizona Automotive Institute back in 1975, that the new rubber seal MELTS from the friction. I was taught to put a very lite coating of heavy axle grease on the surface of the seal and the machined surface of the axle where they are going to ride to prevent friction. That prevents the seal from melting and causing a new leak on your new axle seal. In 15 years in the field, I (knock-wood) NEVER had a comeback for a new axle seal leaking withing my standard 3 year warranty period. Other than that, the step by step was very informative. Thank you.
Very helpful video. I ran into an issue maybe others might as well, where the studs on the retainer plate broke loose. I had to cut them off with sawzall and replace the retainer plate and bolts. Just something that might happen.
As a tech at a shop, I feel like this misrepresents what may ACTUALLY be required to do this job. MAYBE you will get lucky and your axles will come out without a slide hammer, and MAYbe the backing plates wont want to come off with the axle. I suggest having a slide hammer handy. People might start this job and end up needing more tools than you're showing. just saying.
1A Auto.. Cool video. It's funny I just did rear brakes on a 2012 Jeep Wrangler and it needed the seals replaced. I told the customer he had to replace for rear wheel bearing and seals . He couldn't afford it right now so I told him it needs to be done asap..
This was incredibly helpful. I had a seal leak, but couldn’t get access to a bearing press, so I went with a full axle assembly from another auto parts supplier. (I checked and 1A Auto didn’t seem to have it.) It would’ve been more cost effective if I could’ve just replaced the seal, bearing, and spacer, but it was so much more cost effective than paying for what my mechanic was asking - $1500 for the seal leak and contaminated brakes. I saved $700 after parts and tools. I can’t help but think that Sue’s from New England with that “wicked tight”. LOL Thank you for this super helpful vid.
Hello Ms. Sue . Here from Houston Tx .. I want to thank you so much ... For the FIRST Time my husband has listened to a women for advice 😂😂 .. He did our daughter 2007 Jeep Wrangler x wt ur Video.. I told him I would leave a comment on ur video great job... We have 4 daughter's . I tell them all the time they have to knw how to change tires n check there own oil on vehicles. Because u never knw if they need to do it them self's.. Very Thankful. ur fans Frm Tx..
Great video, FYI at times the outer race of the bearing will remain pressed into the differential hub and will need to be removed before replacing the axle shaft. In this video it came right out with the axle shaft but that’s not always the case.
Great video and got me through this job with far less issues than learning as you go. I now know why you skipped the part of installing the e-brake shoes. You almost need 4 hands for that nightmare, and that took me almost longer than replacing the parts on the axle shaft. As some others have noted, I also had to pop out the race. I used an arm from a 3-jaw puller, which allowed me to get behind the race and pop it out with one good tap to the back of the race. At least Dana is smart enough to leave some of the back edge of the race exposed, unlike Toyota... Watch out for the little white plastic piece inside the ABS sensor clip. There's a bit of vacuum created when pulling off the wiring clip, and that white piece can pop out and get lost easily. I was lucky that I saw it fall out, or it would have been gone. Note for Rubicon owners: With the e-locker, you will not be able to pop the axle shaft out from inside of the differential as shown here. The carrier housing does not allow access to the inside ends of the axle shafts. Another video shows flipping a rotor around backwards, sliding it back onto the lugs, loosely threading on 2-3 lugnuts, then using the rotor like a slide hammer. My axle popped out on the 3rd hit using this method. Knowing this information now, I would not do the additional work to remove the diff cover of a Rubicon unless you find reason to on the drain plug magnet. This will save you a good hour of cleaning, replacing, and waiting for RTV to setup a bit before final torque and fill.
Very helpful comment, about to replace both my rear seals and that’ll save a lot of time. Replaced diff fluid And didn’t notice and metal chunks on plug.
This is a great video, and Sue does good work, for sure. She’s careful and patient, and keeps everything clean and simple. My question relates to the reassembly. Sue installed the e brake adjuster in the down position, but when she removed it, it was in the up position. Does this make any difference? Wouldn’t the adjuster loosen off instead of tightening up? Thanks.
Thanks for every specific detail you are giving on your video . I have that job to do tomorow morning on my jeep and you are giving clear specific detail but i dont have a hydraulic press to do it but i will try to find a way to slide this bearing on the shaft
Nice explanation. Thanks. I ended up buying complete axle assemblies instead of the bearing/seal kit and it was a smooth install. I do a lot of auto projects (brakes..etc). and it took me about 2 hours per side (but I didn’t have to do brakes … if your brakes need replacing, do at same time as you’re already taking everything off… I recently did my brakes/rotors & emergency shoes so I just pulled the bracket bolts and removed as a whole assembly. (Note, adjust your e-brake before putting it all back together). Mine axle seals were leaking and everything was a total mess… replaced all shoes, rotors, ebrakes, et. …was a big cleanup job using about 4 cans of brake cleaner and 4 rolls of paper towels 😕 Did brakes & axles in two different sessions as I would have gone insane trying to do it all in one day. Complete axle assembly was more $ but really worth it IMO as it saved a bunch of hassle and time (I don’t own a shop press). Tip: Jack up side you’re working on so fluid stays in diff when you pull the axle. Also, didn’t require and slide hammer to get axle out but used a crowbar to gently press on solid ebrake mount and back of axle lug plate while turning axle around a bit each time (don’t pry against the actual brake shoes) - eventually axle popped out (or you could mount rotor backward with lugs a couple turns on the studs…not tight. And use rotor as a slide hammer of sorts.. that didn’t work in my case so crowbar was necessary). Overall a PITA job but not terrible - maybe a 6.5/10 difficulty. A half moon or bent S 18mm closed end wrench really is useful. And an 18mm ratcheting closed end would have been really useful. Good luck. No need to open differential cover. Just slide new axles in and bolt down n a cross patter & top off diff fluid (make sure to order the correct Dana 44 axle part for Non-Rubicon -or- Rubicon as they have different # of splines )…
U gotta use thread locker for those retainer nuts. I'm going to do the same tomorrow, I'm thinking about using an induction heater to heat up the inner bearing ring, huh? Better than cutting?
FYI my alldata manual says 45ft-lbs torque on those axle retainer nuts. It also said to replace those nuts and not to re-use them. My local dealer has lots in stock as this is a common procedure done at dealer service center. Also as another commented should I be greasing the bore/seal so I don't melt seal? Alldata doesn't say to do so....
If I have one leaking axle seal, and I'm replacing the whole axle shaft with a new complete axle assembly, should I go ahead and replace the other side, too?
So tightening the retainer bolts is what seats the bearing in the axle tube? That means the retainer presses against the seal to press in the bearing into the axle tube? I dont feel a seal is the way to press in a wheel bearing.
great job.i like seeing people who know there mechanics,especially women and young adults.everyone should learn all they can about their automobile.I have a question.I just replaced both rear wheel bearings on my 2006 yj with a dana 44 in rear.I changed them because you could move wheel up and down and everything is tight.after replacing both sides you can still wiggle wheel up and down some.its not leaking on either side but should thwere be any slack?thank you so much.i need a professional opinion.you are very good mechanic!!
+Robert Andrews We wouldn't be able to say here, you may want to have a local mechanic take a look at it. Thanks for checking us out! 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
Many shops that do this install an aftermarket axle/bearing/seal assembly to simplify the job and save on the labor costs. Good idea to change the axle fluid after doing this, but truth be told you don't even have to pull the differential cover to do this job, just tap and pry the axle out between the brake backing plate mounting and the rear axle casting. If you have an axle assembly and the retaining nuts come loose easily, it's really only about a 30 minute job per side.
Great video. I need to do this on my Jeep Liberty Renegade 2006 but I have a hard time to find the parts. Is there a kit with the bearing, seal and spacer ? Thanks
I experienced the “squealing” phenomena as opposed to the “howling”.It only occurred at highway speed which I couldn’t quite pinpoint where it was originating.The rear passenger brakes seemed to be excessively worn more than the rest which leaves to believe that was what I was hearing.
The torque specification for the four axle retainer nuts is 45 ft lbs. (61 N-m). I definitely do not consider this to be "wicked tight". Be careful you can twist the stud off of the retainer plate if you overtighten.
What is the average cost for this job? Including rotors and pads…having mine done and cost is 1900 including replacing ABS sensors and fixing broken parking brake
I wish my rotors just fell off like the ones in the video. My axle didn't budge with the pry bar either. Still fighting with the axle removal after using old reversed rotors as a slide hammer.
Rev. Sys, I have watched your video from beginning to end without interruption and liked it very much. While inserting the tapered roller bearing into the wheel shaft we use hydraulic press. But while we have to remove it from the shaft it is generally cut away. Can you suggest us some other ways by which we can remove the old wheel bearing without cutting it or damaging it ? Thank you very much for your nice video. With regards, Jayantàda, 4/6/2021
@@1AAuto Dear Sys, I have checked as written by you but I have not got the answer to my question. Why don't you write to me straight ? May God bestow !
+@robertfrancisco1193 We do not have a video for this repair right now, but we'll keep this request in mind for a future video! 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
Is there any other way to fit the ring, bearing, and seal on the axle shaft without using a press? Seems that a regular driveway mechanic can't do this job without their own press. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
I know this is 6 months late, I'm a retired auto tech, 35years, what i do without a press is to put the bearing and retainer in the oven, heat it up, get some crc freeze off , get a long piece of pipe that fits the retainer, support the axle, spray the axle with crc freeze off, slide the warm bearing and retainer down the axle, slide the pipe down over the axle, drive the bearing and retainer until seated, very easy
When I click your "Buy Now" link it takes me to your site, then I put in 2014 Jeep Wrangler and it says the bearing won't fit. When I click through on "show me parts that fit" it gives me front wheel bearings. What's up?
I'm glad I saw this video. Firestone wanted to charge me almost $2.5k for doing this job on one side because supposedly the pin on the differential was broken, but when I took it to my mechanic he mentioned to me to remove Axle my Jeep is one of those like on this video you just remove the 4 nuts.
I have to do this on an 03 Nissan Frontier 2wd 2.4l Auto. Can anyone tell me what the ring in front of the bearing she cut off it called? I am looking at a chart and honestly the low quality of it is maddening to understand without having the axle already out to reference. Is that the spacer? ON the diagram for mine it looks like it is behind the bearing. Someone please help me.
√ *Watch the Video*
√ *Buy The Part at 1A Auto* 1aau.to/m/Visit-1AAuto
√ *Do it Yourself*
√ *Save Money*
Great video but unfortunately I can't find it for my 2016 Wrangler on your website. I guess you no longer have it? I was hoping to buy from 1AAUTO again.
@@dustribra Same issue with my 2013 Wrangler - website needs a bit of work I guess.
Same here my jeep 2012 sahara
If somebody know please let me know
The BEST video I've seen on this process!
+Pete V Thank you for the great reply. We love to empower our customers by showing you how-to perform your own auto repairs while installing our high quality auto parts. Have a great day! 1aauto.com
I agree. I like doing my own auto repair, if I can. I have subscribed to this channel for it’s easy to follow videos. Thanks.
Sue's pretty much the only woman in my life that has saved me money. Thousands of dollars between her videos here. Thanks A1 auto for highlighting her ability and thanks Sue for being so good at what you do.
She’s a great teacher and mechanic. Explains everything without a lot of useless fill and swagger.
+Karl von Eschenhof Thanks for checking us out! 1AAuto.com
This video is fantastic! Great explanation. Perfect audio. Nice lighting. Camera work that isn't distracting. Tight editing. And just enough music volume. Thank you for all of the work you all put into this!
+JasonGrinch Thanks for the feedback!
This girl absolutely killed it. I owe her a beer, follow her directions and you’re golden 👌🏽
+Jacob Labor Thank you! We love empowering our customers and showing how to perform DIY auto repairs with our high-quality auto parts. 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
Nice job. Very concise and thorough step by step. I have only one question though. What happens to seal when the clean dry steel axle starts rotating inside the brand new DRY rubber seal as it goes down the road before the axle lube gets out to the end of the tubes to lubricate it?? I was taught in Arizona Automotive Institute back in 1975, that the new rubber seal MELTS from the friction. I was taught to put a very lite coating of heavy axle grease on the surface of the seal and the machined surface of the axle where they are going to ride to prevent friction. That prevents the seal from melting and causing a new leak on your new axle seal. In 15 years in the field, I (knock-wood) NEVER had a comeback for a new axle seal leaking withing my standard 3 year warranty period. Other than that, the step by step was very informative. Thank you.
The seal has lubrication on it from Jeep. Well atleast the seal i got when I performed this repair.
Always pre lube the seal and axle bearing
Very helpful video. I ran into an issue maybe others might as well, where the studs on the retainer plate broke loose. I had to cut them off with sawzall and replace the retainer plate and bolts. Just something that might happen.
As a tech at a shop, I feel like this misrepresents what may ACTUALLY be required to do this job. MAYBE you will get lucky and your axles will come out without a slide hammer, and MAYbe the backing plates wont want to come off with the axle. I suggest having a slide hammer handy. People might start this job and end up needing more tools than you're showing. just saying.
+K i r k H 4 2 0 Thanks for the feedback!
Especially in the rust belt
1A Auto.. Cool video. It's funny I just did rear brakes on a 2012 Jeep Wrangler and it needed the seals replaced. I told the customer he had to replace for rear wheel bearing and seals . He couldn't afford it right now so I told him it needs to be done asap..
This was incredibly helpful. I had a seal leak, but couldn’t get access to a bearing press, so I went with a full axle assembly from another auto parts supplier. (I checked and 1A Auto didn’t seem to have it.) It would’ve been more cost effective if I could’ve just replaced the seal, bearing, and spacer, but it was so much more cost effective than paying for what my mechanic was asking - $1500 for the seal leak and contaminated brakes. I saved $700 after parts and tools. I can’t help but think that Sue’s from New England with that “wicked tight”. LOL Thank you for this super helpful vid.
This is more complicated than I thought. Might have to outsource this to my shop.
Hello Ms. Sue . Here from Houston Tx .. I want to thank you so much ... For the FIRST Time my husband has listened to a women for advice 😂😂 .. He did our daughter 2007 Jeep Wrangler x wt ur Video.. I told him I would leave a comment on ur video great job... We have 4 daughter's . I tell them all the time they have to knw how to change tires n check there own oil on vehicles. Because u never knw if they need to do it them self's.. Very Thankful. ur fans Frm Tx..
Great video, FYI at times the outer race of the bearing will remain pressed into the differential hub and will need to be removed before replacing the axle shaft. In this video it came right out with the axle shaft but that’s not always the case.
not on this model JK with OEM tapered roller bearings I don't think.....
yep im doing one thats like pressed into the tube.
bearing and race are 1 peice.
axle doesnt just slide on out sadly
2011 wrangler unlimited sport
Instead of dealing with rtv ever again, I swapped my front and rear diff covers (2016 jku) to lube locker gaskets. The time saved alone is worth it.
One of the best videos I've watched in a while on auto repair.
Great video and got me through this job with far less issues than learning as you go. I now know why you skipped the part of installing the e-brake shoes. You almost need 4 hands for that nightmare, and that took me almost longer than replacing the parts on the axle shaft. As some others have noted, I also had to pop out the race. I used an arm from a 3-jaw puller, which allowed me to get behind the race and pop it out with one good tap to the back of the race. At least Dana is smart enough to leave some of the back edge of the race exposed, unlike Toyota... Watch out for the little white plastic piece inside the ABS sensor clip. There's a bit of vacuum created when pulling off the wiring clip, and that white piece can pop out and get lost easily. I was lucky that I saw it fall out, or it would have been gone.
Note for Rubicon owners: With the e-locker, you will not be able to pop the axle shaft out from inside of the differential as shown here. The carrier housing does not allow access to the inside ends of the axle shafts. Another video shows flipping a rotor around backwards, sliding it back onto the lugs, loosely threading on 2-3 lugnuts, then using the rotor like a slide hammer. My axle popped out on the 3rd hit using this method. Knowing this information now, I would not do the additional work to remove the diff cover of a Rubicon unless you find reason to on the drain plug magnet. This will save you a good hour of cleaning, replacing, and waiting for RTV to setup a bit before final torque and fill.
Very helpful comment, about to replace both my rear seals and that’ll save a lot of time. Replaced diff fluid And didn’t notice and metal chunks on plug.
This is a great video, and Sue does good work, for sure. She’s careful and patient, and keeps everything clean and simple. My question relates to the reassembly. Sue installed the e brake adjuster in the down position, but when she removed it, it was in the up position. Does this make any difference? Wouldn’t the adjuster loosen off instead of tightening up? Thanks.
Seems like the diff cover can stay on if I use a slide hammer on the hub? Or did I miss something? Think you only used the pry bar in there.
Sue is awesome! Thanks for the great video. We used it today for our Jeep.
+BobboCJ7 Thanks for checking us out, we're glad you liked the video! 1aauto.com
Great Video.
Clear, concise and efficient oration of a very difficult task.
Great camera angles as well.
Thanks, an easy to understand process and the tools needed. I wish they all were this to the point.
Quick tip, pregrease the axle bearings to avoid running dry until the gear oil makes it's way out to the ends of the axle tubes
I’ve been looking for a video to show me how to do this for awhile. Now I finally know how to, thanks!
+hpaulett Thanks for checking us out. Shop here for high quality auto parts: 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
Thanks for every specific detail you are giving on your video . I have that job to do tomorow morning on my jeep and you are giving clear specific detail but i dont have a hydraulic press to do it but i will try to find a way to slide this bearing on the shaft
Nice explanation. Thanks. I ended up buying complete axle assemblies instead of the bearing/seal kit and it was a smooth install.
I do a lot of auto projects (brakes..etc). and it took me about 2 hours per side (but I didn’t have to do brakes … if your brakes need replacing, do at same time as you’re already taking everything off… I recently did my brakes/rotors & emergency shoes so I just pulled the bracket bolts and removed as a whole assembly. (Note, adjust your e-brake before putting it all back together). Mine axle seals were leaking and everything was a total mess… replaced all shoes, rotors, ebrakes, et. …was a big cleanup job using about 4 cans of brake cleaner and 4 rolls of paper towels 😕 Did brakes & axles in two different sessions as I would have gone insane trying to do it all in one day. Complete axle assembly was more $ but really worth it IMO as it saved a bunch of hassle and time (I don’t own a shop press). Tip: Jack up side you’re working on so fluid stays in diff when you pull the axle. Also, didn’t require and slide hammer to get axle out but used a crowbar to gently press on solid ebrake mount and back of axle lug plate while turning axle around a bit each time (don’t pry against the actual brake shoes) - eventually axle popped out (or you could mount rotor backward with lugs a couple turns on the studs…not tight. And use rotor as a slide hammer of sorts.. that didn’t work in my case so crowbar was necessary). Overall a PITA job but not terrible - maybe a 6.5/10 difficulty. A half moon or bent S 18mm closed end wrench really is useful. And an 18mm ratcheting closed end would have been really useful. Good luck. No need to open differential cover. Just slide new axles in and bolt down n a cross patter & top off diff fluid (make sure to order the correct Dana 44 axle part for Non-Rubicon -or- Rubicon as they have different # of splines )…
The rear differential cover bolts torque specification is 30 ft lbs (41 N-m). The fill plug torque is 25 ft lbs (34 N-m).
Great job Sue!! It looks like a royal pain in the rear to change the seals.
+Jeep Guy Thanks for checking us out. Shop for high quality auto parts on 1AAuto.com:
1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
excellent video....the mechanic was great, she's an excellent teacher.
This is some very solid guidance. Thanks for making this easier.
thank you we have a shop in illinois and this video helped us much
Excellent video. Is there anything specific about rubicons?
This video helped me. A lot, had to do this repair at work on a used car. Thank you
U gotta use thread locker for those retainer nuts. I'm going to do the same tomorrow, I'm thinking about using an induction heater to heat up the inner bearing ring, huh? Better than cutting?
I like the way this lady does her work, clean and thrall!!
+Bill Lee Thanks for checking us out! 1AAuto.com
Thorough* 😬
So it is necessary to remove the dif cover?
FYI my alldata manual says 45ft-lbs torque on those axle retainer nuts. It also said to replace those nuts and not to re-use them. My local dealer has lots in stock as this is a common procedure done at dealer service center. Also as another commented should I be greasing the bore/seal so I don't melt seal? Alldata doesn't say to do so....
If I have one leaking axle seal, and I'm replacing the whole axle shaft with a new complete axle assembly, should I go ahead and replace the other side, too?
She did a great job! nice
So tightening the retainer bolts is what seats the bearing in the axle tube? That means the retainer presses against the seal to press in the bearing into the axle tube? I dont feel a seal is the way to press in a wheel bearing.
great job.i like seeing people who know there mechanics,especially women and young adults.everyone should learn all they can about their automobile.I have a question.I just replaced both rear wheel bearings on my 2006 yj with a dana 44 in rear.I changed them because you could move wheel up and down and everything is tight.after replacing both sides you can still wiggle wheel up and down some.its not leaking on either side but should thwere be any slack?thank you so much.i need a professional opinion.you are very good mechanic!!
+Robert Andrews We wouldn't be able to say here, you may want to have a local mechanic take a look at it. Thanks for checking us out! 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
Many shops that do this install an aftermarket axle/bearing/seal assembly to simplify the job and save on the labor costs. Good idea to change the axle fluid after doing this, but truth be told you don't even have to pull the differential cover to do this job, just tap and pry the axle out between the brake backing plate mounting and the rear axle casting. If you have an axle assembly and the retaining nuts come loose easily, it's really only about a 30 minute job per side.
+Mark Palmer Thanks for checking us out!
Great video. I need to do this on my Jeep Liberty Renegade 2006 but I have a hard time to find the parts. Is there a kit with the bearing, seal and spacer ? Thanks
I experienced the “squealing” phenomena as opposed to the “howling”.It only occurred at highway speed which I couldn’t quite pinpoint where it was originating.The rear passenger brakes seemed to be excessively worn more than the rest which leaves to believe that was what I was hearing.
Realy nice Job! I like to look how you done the job so perfect and easy!!!
Excellent video with a lot of great information being shown and also explained👌
Excellent video, just a tip on the friction modifier. If the carrier is shaped like a bell, it’s an open diff, lsd carrier has a square shape to it.
+Roberto Búrbano Thanks for the comments and for watching!
Wow! Dana learned how to make metal plugs!
The torque specification for the four axle retainer nuts is 45 ft lbs. (61 N-m). I definitely do not consider this to be "wicked tight". Be careful you can twist the stud off of the retainer plate if you overtighten.
awesome video! great to see women in the trade!
+Steve Slater Thanks for checking us out. 1aauto.com
what brand is that black RTV silicone your using and how fast does it dry ? Also why do you use the RTV instead of a gasket ?
Does the adjuster assembly go in with the star gear down? I thought it went up on these....or does it matter?
Great video - short and to the point, very useful, thanks.
Great video! Need to take care of this once I find access to a press for the bearings.
hi mate, thanks for ur helpful video, do u have any tips for replacing rear axles for 2003 Mazda, B2500, diesel turbo, 2.5 4wd
I learned a lot. Thanks for your clear explanation of the process!
a very clear and to-the-point video. thank you.
+dsergison Thanks for checking us out! 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
am i supposed to used a specific rtv ? i have Loctite SI 5015 blue rtv, will this one work or does it need to be Mopar?
What is the average cost for this job? Including rotors and pads…having mine done and cost is 1900 including replacing ABS sensors and fixing broken parking brake
I love your shop. Wish it was here in Miami Fl.
+john miller Thanks for checking us out! 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
Great job, very informative. Thank you!
What is the average cost for this service? Parts and labor separated?
There no c-clips or nothing on the axle inside the carrier just pressed on bearings and four bolts for dust shield?
The video is nice
Im changed front seals but still leaking oil driver side I dont known what is the reason
excellent very impressive honestly better then most of we mechanics.. hats off🥀
I wish my rotors just fell off like the ones in the video. My axle didn't budge with the pry bar either. Still fighting with the axle removal after using old reversed rotors as a slide hammer.
Great video, your detail was excellent.
Great job and through except on emergency brake replacement ,i will look for the video on that....thanks for the info!
Rev. Sys,
I have watched your video from beginning to end without interruption and liked it very much.
While inserting the tapered roller bearing into the wheel shaft we use hydraulic press. But while we have to remove it from the shaft it is generally cut away. Can you suggest us some other ways by which we can remove the old wheel bearing without cutting it or damaging it ?
Thank you very much for your nice video.
With regards,
Jayantàda,
4/6/2021
+Jayanta Jit Hazarika Thanks for checking us out! 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
@@1AAuto Dear Sys,
I have checked as written by you but I have not got the answer to my question. Why don't you write to me straight ?
May God bestow !
Awesome video, thanks so very much. Best RUclips video on the subject matter.!
+Martin Riley Thanks for checking us out and the positive feedback! 1AAuto.com
Love watching your videos.
+Jim Barber Thanks for checking us out. Shop for high quality auto parts on 1AAuto.com:
1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
Does the retainer pull the seal in place?
Why not include the limited slip diff additive on your list of parts? With a part number?
Might be something people want to know...
do you have a video on replacing rear spider gears on a jeep 2015 dana 44. that my next project!!
+@robertfrancisco1193 We do not have a video for this repair right now, but we'll keep this request in mind for a future video! 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
Waouh, excellent job, and excellent tuto!!! Thanks you. 🥇🥇🥇
Another cool video from sue
Super excellent job and great video, love a woman does this.
I really appreciate you guys can also make one for Nissan Frontier 2008 and 2010
Is there any other way to fit the ring, bearing, and seal on the axle shaft without using a press? Seems that a regular driveway mechanic can't do this job without their own press. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
I know this is 6 months late, I'm a retired auto tech, 35years, what i do without a press is to put the bearing and retainer in the oven, heat it up, get some crc freeze off , get a long piece of pipe that fits the retainer, support the axle, spray the axle with crc freeze off, slide the warm bearing and retainer down the axle, slide the pipe down over the axle, drive the bearing and retainer until seated, very easy
Best video ever!!!! Thank you!! You are awesome ma'am!!!
Why did you open the middle of the differential I saw it done With out .... just a question ❓...
She made that look easy I was cutting for ever
What i shude do if the bearing cup still stuck on the axle and the bearing itself did come out with the shaft ? Any solution to do ?
So how would someone do this without a press?
When I click your "Buy Now" link it takes me to your site, then I put in 2014 Jeep Wrangler and it says the bearing won't fit. When I click through on "show me parts that fit" it gives me front wheel bearings. What's up?
+Jay Halvorson We do apologize It appears we do not offer the part you are looking for and we are correcting the video now.
Nice job and instructions
Great instruction. You make me want to go break something just so I can fix it.
+scroonie 1976 Thanks for checking us out! 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
Thank you for showing me this.
No need to remove the diff cover. Bolt rotor on backwards and use it as a slide hammer and axle will pop out.
+Streethawk 1 Thanks for the feedback!
Love that there is a woman doing this!!
+Anna Brown Thanks for checking us out! 1AAuto.com
I'm glad I saw this video. Firestone wanted to charge me almost $2.5k for doing this job on one side because supposedly the pin on the differential was broken, but when I took it to my mechanic he mentioned to me to remove Axle my Jeep is one of those like on this video you just remove the 4 nuts.
Firestone just told me they don't do the baring and seal replacement, they don't have the proper tools, to take to a transmission shop.
This might be a dumb question but are there inner axle seals on the rear differential, It seems to me there would be no reason
+Scott Jones There are inner stub shafts.
Can you give me a parts list, for the seal, Bearing and Race and Spacer?
You had me until you started grinding off the bearing, Im not gonna mess with it, Ill pay to have that done.
A dremel works better. Faster because thinner kerf, easier to control because of the smaller radius of the disk.
Hi 👋
Is this axle like axle JL?
Fantastic job you are awesome thank you
What happens when the bolts spin with the nuts on the inner shield?
FYI you don’t need to removed the rear diff cover in order to remove that shaft
I have to do this on an 03 Nissan Frontier 2wd 2.4l Auto. Can anyone tell me what the ring in front of the bearing she cut off it called? I am looking at a chart and honestly the low quality of it is maddening to understand without having the axle already out to reference. Is that the spacer? ON the diagram for mine it looks like it is behind the bearing. Someone please help me.
Good thing I just got a new bearing press from Amazon.