Hah, since I put an O2 sensor in my car with a wideband gauge, I've been experimenting with the idle circuit. I had the same issue with the blip - same issue, idle adjust screws. I think I MAY need bigger jets as the O2 sensor is telling me that I'm running a little lean (overall low side of 14) and at WOT it's getting like 10-11 AFR - it's a 2.0L engine with a mild tune.
Thoroughly enjoyed your tuning tips. I recently upgraded to a 38-38 Outlaw on my 1978 FJ40 Land Cruiser and have Not even been able to have it run long enough (rough or smooth) to fine tune the mixture jets in order to reduce set the idle speed. In my first attempt ... I had installed a pressure reducing valve to drop the PSI to the carb at the recommended 3 PSI, but I left the idle mixture jets set from the factory. No easy start ... had to control engine manually with the throttle linkage. Engine finally quit with backfire through exhaust telling me it was to lean ? I notice leakage at my pressure reducing valve and also considered this may have been an additional attribute to the carb running lean (removed the valve so the fuel flows directly from fuel pump to carb ... similar to your the video of your carb but with no means to have access fuel return back to the pump. Multiple attempts to run the engine ... start and stop constantly ... again making me think ... lean/ carb is starving for gas. Re-read paperwork and went back to suggested settings (1/2 turn on idle speed ... 1 1/2 turn out on idle mixture) ... engine will start but die within in seconds. My vacuum line is secure. The vacuum plug is in for the power brakes (the vacuum fitting for the brakes is on the manifold) ... still have the reducing valve off ... idle screw in 1/2 turn albeit I cannot tell if the throttle plate is open according to their specs ... My thought is to open the throttle idle screw a full turn in lieu of 1/2 turn, reinstall the pressure reducing valve, and turning the idle mixture screws out 1 1/4 turns similar to where your engine settled in. I'm just trying to get the engine to stay running in order to tune it! LAST THING ... a couple of other RUclips's on Weber stated they had issues with the float setting and needle adjustment. What's your thoughts on that? I didn't want to pop off the top and disturb any warranty ... plus I just couldn't imagine something like that could happen from the factory. Not many "aspirator" mechanics with all of the EFI around (spoke to two) who want to take a shot at tuning it or helping with the diagnosis hahaha. Your thoughts?
My 1st Initial idle settings were 1 1/4 turns out and that was ok but until I redid the idle jets to 1 1/2 turns out it's perfect meaning from low to mid and high transitions of mixture while running, my thoughts on a possible improper set float from factory are it could happen? If was assembled fairly quickly and slightly ever so tapped while putting on top of carb assembly. They actually can handle a smidge over 4psi infact most people who don't know the tale tale symptoms of a slight lean or starving for fuel carb could never imagine that these things really move some air and fuel and in my initial testings on heavy throttle pulls I started starving my carb so I unkinked my return fuel line to let more fuel flow but that was a no brainier! As long as the fuel bowl vent brass nozzle tip or tube is not plugged like most do!? It is there to let the tuner know if over fueling of the float bowl occurs as it will simply start to leak out telling the tuner too much pressure is happening but on a side note in my past experience try taking out your idle jets when all else fails and purchase your preferred carb cleaner n use the high pressure little stem and blast the jet hole veins out thoroughly on the jets and through the jet holes on both sides of the carb and you can do this top side to the air jets aswell but with good pressure from the thin tube to really force any possible debris from manufacturing etc through n out. I say this cause it's happened to me and it was a 1st step I should have taken in the past when I once ran a 32/36 for a few years with 1 or 2 rebuilds in the process and I learned the hard way but once I did that it was all GOOOOOD! In my past years of installing and custom jetting webers I took on a set of Dual DCOE sidedraft's at 45 mm and that's when I learned on my own about going from a mechanical pump to just getting an OE elec fuel pump from a junkyard and put it in one of my past Toyota pickups with the 22R and just ran my own wires from the ignition for key turn on like factory and ran the in and out back to the fuel tank in an attempt to save me money from fuel pressure regulators etc and it worked flawlessly n took that custom full built from ground up motor i did on the tailgate of another Toyota pickup to the race track for tuning purposes and eventually did some rejetting of the air correctors because of such a huge camshaft lift n duration profile but being able to stab the accelerator and no hesitation with tons of smooth torque midrange for days but going off topic here my 1st 38/38 is on this truck but just went back to my roots on what i know works and is day to day reliable with eas of tuning if need be as I'm a realist in this DIY venue so I understand anything and everything can and will go wonky or wrong in a split second so I do my best always to fully inspect and do any pre tuning before installing as I showed in another video that the butterflies on each venturie can be synced and adjusted! There is a decent sized adjusting screw on backside where the two half gears mesh and if one of the butterflies is off it will either cover or expose too much idle mixture while idling and will not let the motor run smoothly because butterflies are not in sync ? I synced mine up dead even before installing my carb so when adjusting idle mixture screws while running one will affect the idle but will not turn off the motor as mixture screws are being synced so that's another tip about the butterfly gear mesh syncing there is an adjusting screw built into 1 of the gears to sync them. Man I hope any of this helps you out in your Weber tuning and thanks for the great question I love brain storming.
I have a 67 mustang with a 209 inline 6 cylinder motor with 2.5 " long tube headers straight back to dual flowmaster 40's. Do you think this would be a good option for swapping out the pathetic 1v autoliite carburator? I was told it would increase performance, but I would like your opinion. Thanks Oh ya, Nice job everything looks clean and neat.
What’s up man! On the video you made with the 38 Weber carb, I heard you say you built a motor with 45 DCOE Weber side draft. So I have a 1989 Toyota pick up with many upgrades. Upgrades to include: - 292 Schneider cams - LCE PRO Headers - LCE PRO distributor without vacuum advance - Dual timing chain with adjustable sprocket (LCE) - Dual springs - 1mm over sized intake & exhaust valves So for some reason I’m having a hard time with the side draft. It’ll crank right up but then starts acting all finicky. Shoots out sparks(running rich) so I’ll change up my air and fuel nozzles. I have bought different sizes for the nozzles and kept swapping it out at every start up or when it acts up, but no luck. I’m getting so frustrated with these dang things. But I do not wanna give up on it. Do you rebuild these carbs? Or is there any other advice you might have on the situation I’m having? Please. Anything helps. Would rather ship it to you 😬
Plenty of videos but it don't have EFI no more ! The video óf the hi flow induction I run it right after install with EFI and maybe a few others but I only have like 20 or so vids of this truck so not that many to go through or fast forward through
I have a BMW 2.5 liter which came by factory with two carburetors. Recently I upgraded to two Weber 38/38, car has a hard time starting (I have to crank the motor with the gas pedal all the way down for it to start) then it idles good to about 1500 RPM, pretty steady but when I press the gas pedal a little hard it bogs down badly. Spark plugs are WAY too black and idle mixture screws are only one turn out. It’s currently running on 55 idle jets, I’m planning to go to 45 idle jets and also go down a couple of sizes on the main jets and up a couple sizes on air correctors. Overall do you think it’s a good plan? What could be the cause of bogging when pressing the accelerator pedal too quickly? Also should I also mess with my emulsion tubes? Thank you! I appreciate your videos!
I have my return completely blocked off and have never had any issue I have one of those glass fuel filters that holds a cup of gas so with that and the correct fuel pressure there is never any fuel to "return" lol.
I just installed my Weber 38/38 on 2.4 z24i runs good just a little sputtery especially after I drive it and im slowing down coming to a stop do you think the carb needs to be dialed in I haven’t messed with any of the screws just yet
They are never set according to your motor, turn in both idle circuit mixture screws all the way in till bottom out but don't be forceful! Then 1 and a half complete turns out and that's it! If those idle mixture screws are not in sync with one another it will mess with the lower run to idle circuit as the carb is transitioning from run jets and air correctors to the idle circuit jets ok,
I want to upgrade from my 32/36 to a 38, what do you think? Freshly rebuilt and rather go back with the 32 I'd like to explore other options! I'd very much so admire your opinion. Btw its a '91 Mazda b2200
If you have any tuning issues resolve them before upgrading! This carb flows more cfm and fuel very rapidly and very responsive so if your motor is not up to par then a motor redo over would not hurt? I've used 32/36 in the past n loved it then upgraded to 45mm dual Sideraft carbs but that was a from block up total custom build I did on that motor for the racing application I used it for and everyday drivability and fast forward to today with the Nissan D21 KA24E motor completely stock but with NGK iridium SPARKPLUGS AND WIRES for that consistent electrical output from coil for reliable rapid consistent combustion, I really customized my intake platform for more plenum affect or high rise adapting for instantaneous throttle response and a colder mixture from the higher induction rise, your B2200 should handle it just fine but if your motor isn't equipped to deal with the extra fuel and air flow it will be a waste ? Meaning you will not get the full affects or performance fyi on that . But I'm not anyone to say don't do it actually I'm all for it !!! Just watch all my videos with the Weber38/38 setup for there are really no videos anyone has taken the time to really show it n tell it like it really is so I did it for all the enthusiast going into this DIY type project .. always here to help 1 out
Hey, I'm running a 38 Outlaw on a 1985 720 with the Z24 motor. Idles fine but it does have that soft spot, that little bit of bogginess around 2000-2500rpm before it really comes alive above 3000rpm. I was sorta figuring it was bogging because it was getting too much fuel and that maybe I need to step down to 140 or 135mm on the main jets. Am I wrong? Should I be trying bigger jets too? Should I be trying different idle jets? Seems to be idling fine, but there is a bit of carbon at the tailpipe...
I find your channel very informative. I have weber outlaw 38-38 that I bought 10 -11 years ago fitted on my Isuzu trooper 2.6l but now I have problem with fuel leaking from Accelerator Pump Diaphragm. Can you help me identify which type of diaphragm this weber use? I have some other question I like to ask and need your advise regarding weber 38-38. How can I communicate with you? If you want my email let me know. Thanks.
Pierce Manifolds com sells and distributes Weber carbs parts n service abd its were when i need a rebuild kit fir my 38/38 I will order from them directly or through ebay or amazon buy has to be the 38\38 rebuild kit , comes with accelerator pump diaphragm and all other gaskets parts etc needed hope this helped
I will try to be more informative on Weber carbs cause I just love these things ! My 3 rd Weber , my 1st was a 32/36 then jumped to the big bastards 45mm Siderafts but that was a total insane built motor I did from the block n crank up literally then sold it for 10k cash I regret it and now years later after tired of messing with my Nissans fuel injection issues mainly old fried broken wires mainly I just went back to my Weber roots n did a 38/38 always wanted to try one on a stick pickup motor of 2400 cc and bigger with no motor mods other than using what the motor came with and presto! But carbs are my passion weather rejetring them or rebuilding them or tweaking them for economy or performance gains it's up my alley and so I decided to finally do what a lot of Weber vids don't show or talk about and that's all the settings and adjustments and what it looks like and where you name it trying to fill in that void for DIY Weber vids .
Yours is the only Weber that utilizes both fuel inlets on RUclips (that I can see). This makes perfect sense to combat fuel vapor provided there's a bypass line available. Why aren't more people doing this?
@@speedrover it's beyond me why others I've seen do this in the 90's and the last 23 years not do this! This is why I put it out there for everyone to take advantage of the 2nd outlet because it doesn't matter wich side you use only 1 is going to feed the carb anything else just gets returned back to the return line for vehicles that has or have existing EFI setup that has a high pressure fuel pump in the tank already so it's turn key operation yaknow! Turn key and go! I once I did a dual 45mm Weber carb setup on 1 of my old Toyotas and I went to a junkyard and took out a EFI fuel pump from a tank and threw that in my older style mechanic fuel pump type truck tank and wired up a ignition switch accessable from the key as the switch to turn on the pump, ran my own fuel lines going and returning and took off the ugly mechanical fuel pump n threw a cover on that opening and I was done and racing and cruising not rocket science; they always tell you to buy a high pressure fuel pump regulator right? Yeaaaah I never bought into that BS besides they all leak at some point and fires occur! But since the 95 Nissan is fuel injected well it was all laid out for me already ! All I had to do was some quick thinking outside of the box and retro fit the the Weber onto a universal carb adaptor I took a chance on and it worked onto the the more modern high flow intake manifold already on the Nissan and boy does it respond quick! Instant tire roasting power on tap! Anyway hope all this video stuff I'm doing is really helping those learn to take a leap because carb Tech is not rocket science and therefore should be explored in all it's glory ! Oh no advancing of anykind timing of the ignition system is required after overall setup it just works! The 38-38 is more thirsty in it's stock configuration but that's expected then again I have a slight heavy foot but that's my fault not the carb haha but before I sell this badboy it is just another project for me since I was bored and hopefully it will become a good reliable running project truck for the next yap who takes the wheel .
I'm looking through 5 pages of Weber directions now and there is no mention of the inlets other than a preferred side. I do know I won't be using my bypass regualtor. The Weber had the solution to vapor lock the whole time!! THANK YOU!!!!@@Ufohunter-el6kf
@@speedrover yep it's beyond me why Weber has it's manual setup that way? From my experience and actually on track and on public roads that carbs are meant to breathe! A bowl vent is meant to vent! Not be plugged up! Geese I swear these idiots lol! And 7sually or typically most aftermarket carbs have dual inlets for the fuel IN, why ? Because some carbs are on the left and or right side of the motor for ease or acces to the inlet! However vapor lock can also be caused by running fuel lines over or too close to a heated surface remember this very important on how and were you run your fuel lines ok? A Weber as you already know run cool and will sweat towards base of carb during operation as it's cooling the fuel and air charge to be atomized into the intake tube and or ports for better fuel burn I will do a recap or new Weber vid on your questions and or inquiry cause its my belief that not enough Weber users well except me and less then a handful of others are actually having open discussion about the workings of carburetion and it's simplicity ? So thankyou for brainstorming with me speedrover
I have this carb. Car runs cherry on the highway but once I get on the city streets in traffic the car turns on when I stop? .. I put the car in neutral so I can feed gas to the car... Has anyone ran into this problem with this carb?
I did this to my 22r and used a Offenhauser manifold, I'm switching the jets around and tuning it better. This is a good video for a refresher.
Hah, since I put an O2 sensor in my car with a wideband gauge, I've been experimenting with the idle circuit. I had the same issue with the blip - same issue, idle adjust screws.
I think I MAY need bigger jets as the O2 sensor is telling me that I'm running a little lean (overall low side of 14) and at WOT it's getting like 10-11 AFR - it's a 2.0L engine with a mild tune.
Thoroughly enjoyed your tuning tips. I recently upgraded to a 38-38 Outlaw on my 1978 FJ40 Land Cruiser and have Not even been able to have it run long enough (rough or smooth) to fine tune the mixture jets in order to reduce set the idle speed. In my first attempt ... I had installed a pressure reducing valve to drop the PSI to the carb at the recommended 3 PSI, but I left the idle mixture jets set from the factory. No easy start ... had to control engine manually with the throttle linkage. Engine finally quit with backfire through exhaust telling me it was to lean ?
I notice leakage at my pressure reducing valve and also considered this may have been an additional attribute to the carb running lean (removed the valve so the fuel flows directly from fuel pump to carb ... similar to your the video of your carb but with no means to have access fuel return back to the pump.
Multiple attempts to run the engine ... start and stop constantly ... again making me think ... lean/ carb is starving for gas.
Re-read paperwork and went back to suggested settings (1/2 turn on idle speed ... 1 1/2 turn out on idle mixture) ... engine will start but die within in seconds.
My vacuum line is secure. The vacuum plug is in for the power brakes (the vacuum fitting for the brakes is on the manifold) ... still have the reducing valve off ... idle screw in 1/2 turn albeit I cannot tell if the throttle plate is open according to their specs ...
My thought is to open the throttle idle screw a full turn in lieu of 1/2 turn, reinstall the pressure reducing valve, and turning the idle mixture screws out 1 1/4 turns similar to where your engine settled in. I'm just trying to get the engine to stay running in order to tune it!
LAST THING ... a couple of other RUclips's on Weber stated they had issues with the float setting and needle adjustment. What's your thoughts on that? I didn't want to pop off the top and disturb any warranty ... plus I just couldn't imagine something like that could happen from the factory. Not many "aspirator" mechanics with all of the EFI around (spoke to two) who want to take a shot at tuning it or helping with the diagnosis hahaha.
Your thoughts?
My 1st Initial idle settings were 1 1/4 turns out and that was ok but until I redid the idle jets to 1 1/2 turns out it's perfect meaning from low to mid and high transitions of mixture while running, my thoughts on a possible improper set float from factory are it could happen? If was assembled fairly quickly and slightly ever so tapped while putting on top of carb assembly. They actually can handle a smidge over 4psi infact most people who don't know the tale tale symptoms of a slight lean or starving for fuel carb could never imagine that these things really move some air and fuel and in my initial testings on heavy throttle pulls I started starving my carb so I unkinked my return fuel line to let more fuel flow but that was a no brainier! As long as the fuel bowl vent brass nozzle tip or tube is not plugged like most do!? It is there to let the tuner know if over fueling of the float bowl occurs as it will simply start to leak out telling the tuner too much pressure is happening but on a side note in my past experience try taking out your idle jets when all else fails and purchase your preferred carb cleaner n use the high pressure little stem and blast the jet hole veins out thoroughly on the jets and through the jet holes on both sides of the carb and you can do this top side to the air jets aswell but with good pressure from the thin tube to really force any possible debris from manufacturing etc through n out. I say this cause it's happened to me and it was a 1st step I should have taken in the past when I once ran a 32/36 for a few years with 1 or 2 rebuilds in the process and I learned the hard way but once I did that it was all GOOOOOD! In my past years of installing and custom jetting webers I took on a set of Dual DCOE sidedraft's at 45 mm and that's when I learned on my own about going from a mechanical pump to just getting an OE elec fuel pump from a junkyard and put it in one of my past Toyota pickups with the 22R and just ran my own wires from the ignition for key turn on like factory and ran the in and out back to the fuel tank in an attempt to save me money from fuel pressure regulators etc and it worked flawlessly n took that custom full built from ground up motor i did on the tailgate of another Toyota pickup to the race track for tuning purposes and eventually did some rejetting of the air correctors because of such a huge camshaft lift n duration profile but being able to stab the accelerator and no hesitation with tons of smooth torque midrange for days but going off topic here my 1st 38/38 is on this truck but just went back to my roots on what i know works and is day to day reliable with eas of tuning if need be as I'm a realist in this DIY venue so I understand anything and everything can and will go wonky or wrong in a split second so I do my best always to fully inspect and do any pre tuning before installing as I showed in another video that the butterflies on each venturie can be synced and adjusted! There is a decent sized adjusting screw on backside where the two half gears mesh and if one of the butterflies is off it will either cover or expose too much idle mixture while idling and will not let the motor run smoothly because butterflies are not in sync ? I synced mine up dead even before installing my carb so when adjusting idle mixture screws while running one will affect the idle but will not turn off the motor as mixture screws are being synced so that's another tip about the butterfly gear mesh syncing there is an adjusting screw built into 1 of the gears to sync them. Man I hope any of this helps you out in your Weber tuning and thanks for the great question I love brain storming.
I have a 67 mustang with a 209 inline 6 cylinder motor with 2.5 " long tube headers straight back to dual flowmaster 40's. Do you think this would be a good option for swapping out the pathetic 1v autoliite carburator? I was told it would increase performance, but I would like your opinion.
Thanks
Oh ya, Nice job everything looks clean and neat.
What’s up man! On the video you made with the 38 Weber carb, I heard you say you built a motor with 45 DCOE Weber side draft. So I have a 1989 Toyota pick up with many upgrades. Upgrades to include:
- 292 Schneider cams
- LCE PRO Headers
- LCE PRO distributor without vacuum advance
- Dual timing chain with adjustable sprocket (LCE)
- Dual springs
- 1mm over sized intake & exhaust valves
So for some reason I’m having a hard time with the side draft. It’ll crank right up but then starts acting all finicky. Shoots out sparks(running rich) so I’ll change up my air and fuel nozzles. I have bought different sizes for the nozzles and kept swapping it out at every start up or when it acts up, but no luck. I’m getting so frustrated with these dang things. But I do not wanna give up on it. Do you rebuild these carbs? Or is there any other advice you might have on the situation I’m having? Please. Anything helps. Would rather ship it to you 😬
Do you have a video of the truck running? I'm wondering how the ignition advance works without the inputs from the EFI sensors?
Plenty of videos but it don't have EFI no more ! The video óf the hi flow induction I run it right after install with EFI and maybe a few others but I only have like 20 or so vids of this truck so not that many to go through or fast forward through
I have a BMW 2.5 liter which came by factory with two carburetors. Recently I upgraded to two Weber 38/38, car has a hard time starting (I have to crank the motor with the gas pedal all the way down for it to start) then it idles good to about 1500 RPM, pretty steady but when I press the gas pedal a little hard it bogs down badly. Spark plugs are WAY too black and idle mixture screws are only one turn out. It’s currently running on 55 idle jets, I’m planning to go to 45 idle jets and also go down a couple of sizes on the main jets and up a couple sizes on air correctors. Overall do you think it’s a good plan? What could be the cause of bogging when pressing the accelerator pedal too quickly? Also should I also mess with my emulsion tubes? Thank you! I appreciate your videos!
I have my return completely blocked off and have never had any issue I have one of those glass fuel filters that holds a cup of gas so with that and the correct fuel pressure there is never any fuel to "return" lol.
I just installed my Weber 38/38 on 2.4 z24i runs good just a little sputtery especially after I drive it and im slowing down coming to a stop do you think the carb needs to be dialed in I haven’t messed with any of the screws just yet
They are never set according to your motor, turn in both idle circuit mixture screws all the way in till bottom out but don't be forceful! Then 1 and a half complete turns out and that's it! If those idle mixture screws are not in sync with one another it will mess with the lower run to idle circuit as the carb is transitioning from run jets and air correctors to the idle circuit jets ok,
I want to upgrade from my 32/36 to a 38, what do you think? Freshly rebuilt and rather go back with the 32 I'd like to explore other options! I'd very much so admire your opinion. Btw its a '91 Mazda b2200
If you have any tuning issues resolve them before upgrading! This carb flows more cfm and fuel very rapidly and very responsive so if your motor is not up to par then a motor redo over would not hurt? I've used 32/36 in the past n loved it then upgraded to 45mm dual Sideraft carbs but that was a from block up total custom build I did on that motor for the racing application I used it for and everyday drivability and fast forward to today with the Nissan D21 KA24E motor completely stock but with NGK iridium SPARKPLUGS AND WIRES for that consistent electrical output from coil for reliable rapid consistent combustion, I really customized my intake platform for more plenum affect or high rise adapting for instantaneous throttle response and a colder mixture from the higher induction rise, your B2200 should handle it just fine but if your motor isn't equipped to deal with the extra fuel and air flow it will be a waste ? Meaning you will not get the full affects or performance fyi on that . But I'm not anyone to say don't do it actually I'm all for it !!! Just watch all my videos with the Weber38/38 setup for there are really no videos anyone has taken the time to really show it n tell it like it really is so I did it for all the enthusiast going into this DIY type project .. always here to help 1 out
Hey, I'm running a 38 Outlaw on a 1985 720 with the Z24 motor. Idles fine but it does have that soft spot, that little bit of bogginess around 2000-2500rpm before it really comes alive above 3000rpm. I was sorta figuring it was bogging because it was getting too much fuel and that maybe I need to step down to 140 or 135mm on the main jets. Am I wrong? Should I be trying bigger jets too? Should I be trying different idle jets? Seems to be idling fine, but there is a bit of carbon at the tailpipe...
I find your channel very informative. I have weber outlaw 38-38 that I bought 10 -11 years ago fitted on my Isuzu trooper 2.6l but now I have problem with fuel leaking from Accelerator Pump Diaphragm. Can you help me identify which type of diaphragm this weber use? I have some other question I like to ask and need your advise regarding weber 38-38. How can I communicate with you? If you want my email let me know. Thanks.
Pierce Manifolds com sells and distributes Weber carbs parts n service abd its were when i need a rebuild kit fir my 38/38 I will order from them directly or through ebay or amazon buy has to be the 38\38 rebuild kit , comes with accelerator pump diaphragm and all other gaskets parts etc needed hope this helped
I will try to be more informative on Weber carbs cause I just love these things ! My 3 rd Weber , my 1st was a 32/36 then jumped to the big bastards 45mm Siderafts but that was a total insane built motor I did from the block n crank up literally then sold it for 10k cash I regret it and now years later after tired of messing with my Nissans fuel injection issues mainly old fried broken wires mainly I just went back to my Weber roots n did a 38/38 always wanted to try one on a stick pickup motor of 2400 cc and bigger with no motor mods other than using what the motor came with and presto! But carbs are my passion weather rejetring them or rebuilding them or tweaking them for economy or performance gains it's up my alley and so I decided to finally do what a lot of Weber vids don't show or talk about and that's all the settings and adjustments and what it looks like and where you name it trying to fill in that void for DIY Weber vids .
What year is you truck brother I'm trying to do that on me nissan 1993
The idle jet default for the 38/38 is .50mm
Yours is the only Weber that utilizes both fuel inlets on RUclips (that I can see). This makes perfect sense to combat fuel vapor provided there's a bypass line available. Why aren't more people doing this?
@@speedrover it's beyond me why others I've seen do this in the 90's and the last 23 years not do this! This is why I put it out there for everyone to take advantage of the 2nd outlet because it doesn't matter wich side you use only 1 is going to feed the carb anything else just gets returned back to the return line for vehicles that has or have existing EFI setup that has a high pressure fuel pump in the tank already so it's turn key operation yaknow! Turn key and go! I once I did a dual 45mm Weber carb setup on 1 of my old Toyotas and I went to a junkyard and took out a EFI fuel pump from a tank and threw that in my older style mechanic fuel pump type truck tank and wired up a ignition switch accessable from the key as the switch to turn on the pump, ran my own fuel lines going and returning and took off the ugly mechanical fuel pump n threw a cover on that opening and I was done and racing and cruising not rocket science; they always tell you to buy a high pressure fuel pump regulator right? Yeaaaah I never bought into that BS besides they all leak at some point and fires occur! But since the 95 Nissan is fuel injected well it was all laid out for me already ! All I had to do was some quick thinking outside of the box and retro fit the the Weber onto a universal carb adaptor I took a chance on and it worked onto the the more modern high flow intake manifold already on the Nissan and boy does it respond quick! Instant tire roasting power on tap! Anyway hope all this video stuff I'm doing is really helping those learn to take a leap because carb Tech is not rocket science and therefore should be explored in all it's glory ! Oh no advancing of anykind timing of the ignition system is required after overall setup it just works! The 38-38 is more thirsty in it's stock configuration but that's expected then again I have a slight heavy foot but that's my fault not the carb haha but before I sell this badboy it is just another project for me since I was bored and hopefully it will become a good reliable running project truck for the next yap who takes the wheel .
I'm looking through 5 pages of Weber directions now and there is no mention of the inlets other than a preferred side. I do know I won't be using my bypass regualtor.
The Weber had the solution to vapor lock the whole time!! THANK YOU!!!!@@Ufohunter-el6kf
@@speedrover yep it's beyond me why Weber has it's manual setup that way? From my experience and actually on track and on public roads that carbs are meant to breathe! A bowl vent is meant to vent! Not be plugged up! Geese I swear these idiots lol! And 7sually or typically most aftermarket carbs have dual inlets for the fuel IN, why ? Because some carbs are on the left and or right side of the motor for ease or acces to the inlet! However vapor lock can also be caused by running fuel lines over or too close to a heated surface remember this very important on how and were you run your fuel lines ok? A Weber as you already know run cool and will sweat towards base of carb during operation as it's cooling the fuel and air charge to be atomized into the intake tube and or ports for better fuel burn I will do a recap or new Weber vid on your questions and or inquiry cause its my belief that not enough Weber users well except me and less then a handful of others are actually having open discussion about the workings of carburetion and it's simplicity ? So thankyou for brainstorming with me speedrover
Any video with this truck running ?
Only blah blah blah....
Prove it !
I have this carb. Car runs cherry on the highway but once I get on the city streets in traffic the car turns on when I stop? .. I put the car in neutral so I can feed gas to the car... Has anyone ran into this problem with this carb?