Nice wing and build. A suggestion on zip ties in the wing area, they are nylon and over time in heat they will degrade and become brittle and break. I would suggest you replace them with waxed rib lacing cord. Love watching your build, its awesome.
Very nice build! One small bite at a time. You never seem rushed and even when you hit a snag you take it in stride. We can all tell how much you enjoy building and making it right. Love the attention to details and explanations you give for all the small things .😊
A bit concerned about the "up elevator" cable cutting the LE of the tailplane. Is this as per the original. I don't think leather pads will last long. A small roller would be much safer.
Great to have one section done. I agree those elevator up cables caught my eye. I’m sure you’ve considered the geometry of making them miss. Perhaps that’s your only option. Anyway, great job mate!!
Elevator cables are as per original, I might slacken them off a bit. Please remember you are seeing them in the full down deflection most of the time. It is how the designer of my kit intended it to be thanks
No, look at the original drawings, the upper cable should exit just under the upper longeron. And further back compared with the lower cable. This will make it last longer.
Hey, Scott! Progress! It's a wonderful word! When covering the wings and center section for my SE5a, I estimated the shrink length of the dacron (along the direction of the treads) was up to 1 inch per foot. In other words, each 12 inches ended up being about 11 inches (or less) after shrinking at three temperatures. Thus, over a five foot length, the fabric could shrink up to 5 inches. Apparently, the forces generated are quite large! This shrink rate places a lot of pressure on any straight tube that forms the outer edge of a shape, such as a rudder's leading edge (as you've found), and also on the relatively straight lower component of each wing rib. Because of this shrink effect, I added short vertical braces between the upper and lower components of all the root ribs - on the center sections and each wing panel. To prevent the upper and lower components of the root ribs from bending inwards, I used diagonal braces, as trapezoidal structures are more rigid than square ones. I made these vertical and diagonal braces like the "U" shaped intermediate ribs used on the tail feathers. How will you drill the holes in the wing ribs to attach the fabric? There's a lot of 'em! Keep it cranking forward! John SE5a
@@scottmatthews5280 Hi, Scot, I always look forward to your videos, nice job on them, too! Will you make that 'window' in the upper center section? I elected to drill the fabric holes in the rib components before assembling the ribs to the spars for my SE5a. Here's some short RUclipss about it - I hope they work. Thinking up the process and making the jig took a while, but made drilling roughly 1300 holes much easier! ruclips.net/video/6HlJZgl4efI/видео.htmlsi=U0tBnTKZF-tSOe6F ruclips.net/video/933ftukDFbo/видео.htmlsi=5D2QROJtzTZepLqb John SE5a
Suggestion? get rid of the zip ties and replace with the same metal material as the cables (to prevent electrolysis ) the zip ties will breakdown over time even under covering. For those tail brackets use nuts on a threaded rod and spin in a drill against the grinder to make tube height spacers. Incidence of wings is always measured against the lateral line on a chair etc is as you sy nonsense . Tailplane 0-2degrees seems the go but You may get the correct incidence by looking at any particularly larger scale sopwith kits say 1/4 scale try google I found ""The Triplane’s tail assembly followed closely that of the Pup, in construction and profile. The adjustable tailplane employed a long leading edge with inwardraked tips; incidence range was between -2° and +2°, the usual position being +1.5°. ""
You must be really proud of your achievements as its not been the easiest of kits build, i understand the need to complete a section of the build to 100% done, youve done a great job so far
It looks fantastic, very very nice 👍👍👍 I am constantly amazed at the amount of detailed and precision work involved in a project of this magnitude, cheers Paul
Hi Scott, when I asked Robert about setting the angle of incidence (wing) and the decalage angle (horizontal stab) a year ago he told me this: Block the tail up until the top longerons at the sides of the cockpit are dead level fore-and-aft. Also level the plane laterally across the top longerons at the cockpit. (Many light planes are set up this way to start the rigging process.) At that point you fabricate the rear spacers on the HS to get the HS also dead level, same as the fuselage longerons. That's your decalage angle, zero degrees. The wing angle of incidence is already built in by the welded lower wing mounts. The rest of the wings (outer lower wings and top wings) should be set to match the angle of the lower wing roots so both wings will be untwisted and parallel to each other. I attached the wings, and then used a level across the spars at the root to measure the angle of incidence (around 2 degrees if I recall correctly) and then I set the rest of the wings to match this angle. At least that is my interpretation of Robert's verbal instructions. I'm also building a Camel with the steel tube fuselage. Cheers, Curt (Winnipeg, Canada)
That’s the problem, he told me to put the tailplane on all four 1” spacers which sets it up at 5 degrees. Nowadays with digital levels you don’t have to block up the fuselage, you just set zero at the top longeron the measure the tail etc. I guess we will see when flying it. Have you flown yours?
Yeah, I don't know why he gave me four equal spacers and then said to do it a different way. I ended up making my own long delrin spacers for the aft of the HS and bolting the trailing edge directly onto the fuselage weldment. I think the goal is to end up with a wing incidence of +2 degrees or so relative to the horizontal stab. At least that is in the range for most flying models and full size aircraft I have studied. The original Camel is a different airplane with a different airfoil, but if you check out the profile view on the Kiger plans you can see the HS is parallel to the cockpit top longerons. Another consideration is where you positioned the wing ribs relative to the rear spar. I positioned my spar at the midpoint (vertically) of the rib, but that puts the trailing edge lower than the spar to spar line. So the true angle of incidence will be greater than the angle measured across the bare spars. If only we were given actual plans with the kit, this would be so much easier! No, I have not flow yet. Currently working on the forward cowlings. There is a flying Airdrome Camel at my field but I'm not sure I can get any valid measurements since the wings are, of course, already covered. In any case my kit is from 2019 so who knows if he has changed the location of the various wing and tail fittings between my aircraft and yours. Best of luck going forward. She's looking good! Cheers.
Some additional info to add to the confusion - I checked a picture I have of the flying Camel at my field and it definitely has four equal sized spacers on the HS. Mind you, this is the prototype Camel (i.e. kit #1) and has a number of differences from our production kits. I also checked a picture I took when I picked up my kit at the factory in 2019. This shows a partially built Camel and it definitely has long spacers in back and no spacers in front. I can send you this picture if you can give me an email address.
@@curtreimer2150 thanks. scott@iflyrc.com.au I plan on rechecking everything once covered I will make a board up like a Robert incidence meter for model planes. I guess proof is in the flying.
The elevator cables over the leading edge: on upper and lower leading edges, put a low profile bracket riveted over a doily onto leading edge of stabilizer. It would have a piece of steel tubing, like brake line tubing, snugly fitting around a pin going through it, acting as a roller, that is attached between 2 ears of the bracket with double washers on each end of pin between roller and bracket. Thus, less friction (bad for cables) riding over a piece of leather that may get cut through on the first flight.
Looks fabulous with all the paint and decals done. I'm surprised that the cables rub against the tail and, I'm no expert, but wouldn't a bit of tubing help where the cables exit the fuselage? Or would that just wear too? Great work, great Scott! Thanks for sharing 🙏
That is absolutely beautiful , I’ve flown this plane as a large model , but have never even seen one in person , I know little of aircraft engineering but you are spot on here as far as I can see at least from my small perspective of design and assembly . Such a lovely job mate , greetings from Canada !
Heads up on the tailwheel chains, they will stretch in short order. They will become loose and allow the tailwheel to float. As for the incidence on the horizontal stabilizer, most aircraft, they are centerline thrust of the prop and parallel. No + or - rake. I would try to get a hold of the company and ask them.
+5° might be just right to avoid having to push down elevator when flying. On my Radio controlled 1/4 scale Pup, I have only 2 degrees, and I have to trim a lot of down elevator.
the angle of the tailwheel caster is critical. if at the improper angle, it can make the airplane tricky to handle. So you're right about getting the tailwheel right. And how the angle changes when the suspension deflects plays into that as well.
Hey Rowdy. I was just watching your vid about the tail hatch and ran into a similar thing with fasteners in my cubs floor and was going to use pk /self tappers until I found my old Rc flight box! I invert hysoled some t nuts onto the grommets backing - back drilled them and they’ve worked much better than rivnuts spinning and wallowing about (well for me anyway)… keep up the great work mate! That tail fitted up to the fuse looks simply brilliant!
Scott, lovely job as usual. I was at the Shuttleworth Collection a few years ago and got some photos of their "Ikanopit" Camel. I just checked the photos to see where the elevator cables ran. The upper cables seem to stay well clear of the leading edge of the tailplane. I can e mail you the photo if it would help.
Great work again Scott. It is a masterpiece and this series is a master class. So wish I lived in Victoria so I could see her in the flesh! Can't wait for your next installment. Cheers.
I sound like a broken record Scott, but you're doing an awesome job. You must be " Well Pleased" Oh, I have a small gift coming your way via a SDAC member you know who flies a "Converter". It might be a coffee table talking piece. Cheers.
Loving it with the tail fitted. Could you use thin PFTE blocks where the upper elevator wires cross the tailplane leading edge? Not traditional but maybe more durable>
I think I’d replace the tail wheel ‘key chain’ clips with some kind of shackle, even with the springs attached you might get a significant shock load one day and the clips seem to be the weak point in the system. 👍
I'd leave the tw chain length till it is all finished and adjust the slack then. ( after fuel and everything else is in and the weight is on the tw when you do your W&B.At this point in your build you cant see what the distance is from your rudder cable end and the chains .Wait and do this last. Your allready too tight with the wheel in the air..At all up weight ( wheels on the ground) chain should be a bit slack so the rudder does the work until the springs kick in and moves the tw. ( Camel Driver- speaking from experience)
Awesome Scott, keep up these videos. Do you think it will be 12 months as you said till you taxi it out. Seems like you will be done in half that but I definitely have never built an airplane to say haha.👍 Cheers
G'day, Yay Team ! Ummm, OK. Reading from, "Air Board Technical Notes" Issued by Controller Technical Department Published by the Air Board, 1917. Sopwith Biplane F.1. (130 H.P. Clerget). Rigging Notes. Page 3 TRUING UP FUSELAGE (see Fig. 1). The Side Struts are numbered from front to rear of Machine. Support the Fuselage on two trestles, one placed under the first bay and the other under the last bay. Starting at No. 1 vertical Side Strut mark points on consecutive Vertical Side Struts 15 & 1/4" , 15 & 1/4" , 15 & 1/4" , 15 & 1/16" , 13 & 17/32" , 11 & 5/16" , 9 & 1/2" , 7 & 25/32" , respectively below the UPPER SURFACE of the Top Longerons. These marked points must be along the Thrust Line in Side Elevation when Fuselage is trued up. Lightly clamp a Straightedge transversely across No. 3 Side Struts, the marked points to be on the UPPER EDGE....," PLACING THE MACHINE IN FLYING POSITION. Before truing up the Centre Section and fitting the Main Planes it is necessary to get the Machine in Flying Position. Page 4. To do this support the machine by blocks placed under the Undercarriage Struts and on a Trestle placed under the Tail. The Machine is in Flying Position when the Front Spar at the Bottom of the Fuselage to which the Front Spars of the Lower Main Planes are attached, is level transversely and when the Top Longerons in the Pilot's Cockpit are level longitudinally. Level longitudinally by raising or lowering the Tail and transversely by packing blocks under the Undercarriage Struts." Page 5 FIXING THE EMPENNAGE (see Figs. 3 and 4). ....."The INCIDENCE of the Tailplane is 1&1/2 Degrees..... "The INCIDENCE can be measured by an Abbey Level over the Straightedge with the Machine in flying Position." There you go Scott, That's how to True-up the Fuselage of a Sopwith Camel, and then how far up/down the Stabilator should be Pointing... "By the Book". As has Bin-Noted, Every Society NEEDS it's Fool On The Hill ; And around here They gave me that Gig...(!). Who else has the Original Rigger's Notes for a Camel in Hardcopy (reprinted in 1999 by Camden Miniature Steam Services ISBN 0 9519367 8 6 ) to hand And Ready to consult (!) ? Anyway, Hopefully this all Helps, As a Cross-Check ! (?). Have a good one... Stay safe. ;-p Ciao !
@@scottmatthews5280 Well, you did ask (!). Basically it boils down to getting the Top Fuselage Longerons Level at the Cockpit & setting the Stabilator's Centreline at 1.5° +ve relative to that. All the other stuff I included to demonstrate the point that I indeed referenced the Origi-digi-nal Source Material. With no Guesstimations, Right down to the 25/32th of an Inch...(!). You Always knew There was one Pedantic Stickler out among the Viewers Who Knew The actual ANSWER (!). Such is life, Have a good one... Stay safe ;-p Ciao !
@@scottmatthews5280 I know of one here that you could test fly, and would not AA offer a demo? I am saying it might be a good idea to fly one before spending the time building one.There was one built in Ontario - Beautiful .It flew it once and was taken apart and de -registered it. I asked why on earth he'd do that? answer- It flew awful. I hope you're flys better.
I agree with @stevegreen2432, below... I honestly cannot, for the life of me, see how that could be right. It seems a bit dodgy having the "up elevator" cables slowly sawing away at the tail plane while trying to fray themselves slowly to destruction every time they are actuated. I'm not being critical, just thinking it might be one of those times where it is good to take a step back and assess... An old aviator buddy of mine told me that most aircraft mechanical failures/crashes start months or even years before the event due to a lot of small, inconsequential-seeming assembly/maintenance/training decisions along the way that eventually cascade into failure. The devil is in the details. Worried for your safety.
It’s part of the character of a camel, not saying it’s right. Also you are seeing this in the maximum down travel position don’t forget, I’ll also reduce the cable tensions. It’s how my designer intended it to be.
Okay, that makes sense. Apologize if I sound critical. Spent most of my life in the Marine Corps, so I have a bad habit of being blunt. I'm watching with I interest and enjoy your channel.
Nice wing and build. A suggestion on zip ties in the wing area, they are nylon and over time in heat they will degrade and become brittle and break. I would suggest you replace them with waxed rib lacing cord. Love watching your build, its awesome.
Thanks for the tip!
You are a master craftsman Scott. Lookin great.
I try hard thanks
Very nice build! One small bite at a time. You never seem rushed and even when you hit a snag you take it in stride. We can all tell how much you enjoy building and making it right. Love the attention to details and explanations you give for all the small things .😊
Thanks 👍
Can’t wait to see this out on the ramp when it’s done
Me too, especially after it has flown.
A bit concerned about the "up elevator" cable cutting the LE of the tailplane. Is this as per the original. I don't think leather pads will last long. A small roller would be much safer.
That's exactly what I was thinking.
Great to have one section done. I agree those elevator up cables caught my eye. I’m sure you’ve considered the geometry of making them miss. Perhaps that’s your only option. Anyway, great job mate!!
Elevator cables are as per original, I might slacken them off a bit. Please remember you are seeing them in the full down deflection most of the time. It is how the designer of my kit intended it to be thanks
No, look at the original drawings, the upper cable should exit just under the upper longeron. And further back compared with the lower cable. This will make it last longer.
I’m gonna hold comment on elevator wire sliding back and forth until I see some wear and I research it. But otherwise it’s beautiful
Hey, Scott!
Progress! It's a wonderful word!
When covering the wings and center section for my SE5a, I estimated the shrink length of the dacron (along the direction of the treads) was up to 1 inch per foot. In other words, each 12 inches ended up being about 11 inches (or less) after shrinking at three temperatures. Thus, over a five foot length, the fabric could shrink up to 5 inches. Apparently, the forces generated are quite large!
This shrink rate places a lot of pressure on any straight tube that forms the outer edge of a shape, such as a rudder's leading edge (as you've found), and also on the relatively straight lower component of each wing rib. Because of this shrink effect, I added short vertical braces between the upper and lower components of all the root ribs - on the center sections and each wing panel. To prevent the upper and lower components of the root ribs from bending inwards, I used diagonal braces, as trapezoidal structures are more rigid than square ones. I made these vertical and diagonal braces like the "U" shaped intermediate ribs used on the tail feathers.
How will you drill the holes in the wing ribs to attach the fabric? There's a lot of 'em!
Keep it cranking forward!
John
SE5a
Thanks for the info, I have a little jig for the stitching holes. Next video.
@@scottmatthews5280
Hi, Scot,
I always look forward to your videos, nice job on them, too!
Will you make that 'window' in the upper center section?
I elected to drill the fabric holes in the rib components before assembling the ribs to the spars for my SE5a. Here's some short RUclipss about it - I hope they work. Thinking up the process and making the jig took a while, but made drilling roughly 1300 holes much easier!
ruclips.net/video/6HlJZgl4efI/видео.htmlsi=U0tBnTKZF-tSOe6F
ruclips.net/video/933ftukDFbo/видео.htmlsi=5D2QROJtzTZepLqb
John
SE5a
What a stunning project. Really enjoying the progress. Will be stunning to watch it move under its own power. Brilliant
Many thanks!
Excellent. Better every week.
Glad you think so!
Awesome work as usual Scott!
Thanks again!
Suggestion? get rid of the zip ties and replace with the same metal material as the cables (to prevent electrolysis ) the zip ties will breakdown over time even under covering. For those tail brackets use nuts on a threaded rod and spin in a drill against the grinder to make tube height spacers. Incidence of wings is always measured against the lateral line on a chair etc is as you sy nonsense . Tailplane 0-2degrees seems the go but You may get the correct incidence by looking at any particularly larger scale sopwith kits say 1/4 scale try google I found ""The Triplane’s tail assembly followed closely that of the Pup, in construction and profile. The adjustable tailplane employed a long leading edge with inwardraked tips; incidence range was between -2° and +2°, the usual position being +1.5°. ""
Thanks for the tips
You must be really proud of your achievements as its not been the easiest of kits build, i understand the need to complete a section of the build to 100% done, youve done a great job so far
Yes, thanks
It looks fantastic, very very nice 👍👍👍 I am constantly amazed at the amount of detailed and precision work involved in a project of this magnitude, cheers Paul
Thank you very much!
Hi Scott, when I asked Robert about setting the angle of incidence (wing) and the decalage angle (horizontal stab) a year ago he told me this: Block the tail up until the top longerons at the sides of the cockpit are dead level fore-and-aft. Also level the plane laterally across the top longerons at the cockpit. (Many light planes are set up this way to start the rigging process.) At that point you fabricate the rear spacers on the HS to get the HS also dead level, same as the fuselage longerons. That's your decalage angle, zero degrees. The wing angle of incidence is already built in by the welded lower wing mounts. The rest of the wings (outer lower wings and top wings) should be set to match the angle of the lower wing roots so both wings will be untwisted and parallel to each other. I attached the wings, and then used a level across the spars at the root to measure the angle of incidence (around 2 degrees if I recall correctly) and then I set the rest of the wings to match this angle. At least that is my interpretation of Robert's verbal instructions. I'm also building a Camel with the steel tube fuselage. Cheers, Curt (Winnipeg, Canada)
That’s the problem, he told me to put the tailplane on all four 1” spacers which sets it up at 5 degrees. Nowadays with digital levels you don’t have to block up the fuselage, you just set zero at the top longeron the measure the tail etc. I guess we will see when flying it. Have you flown yours?
Yeah, I don't know why he gave me four equal spacers and then said to do it a different way. I ended up making my own long delrin spacers for the aft of the HS and bolting the trailing edge directly onto the fuselage weldment. I think the goal is to end up with a wing incidence of +2 degrees or so relative to the horizontal stab. At least that is in the range for most flying models and full size aircraft I have studied. The original Camel is a different airplane with a different airfoil, but if you check out the profile view on the Kiger plans you can see the HS is parallel to the cockpit top longerons. Another consideration is where you positioned the wing ribs relative to the rear spar. I positioned my spar at the midpoint (vertically) of the rib, but that puts the trailing edge lower than the spar to spar line. So the true angle of incidence will be greater than the angle measured across the bare spars. If only we were given actual plans with the kit, this would be so much easier! No, I have not flow yet. Currently working on the forward cowlings. There is a flying Airdrome Camel at my field but I'm not sure I can get any valid measurements since the wings are, of course, already covered. In any case my kit is from 2019 so who knows if he has changed the location of the various wing and tail fittings between my aircraft and yours. Best of luck going forward. She's looking good! Cheers.
Some additional info to add to the confusion - I checked a picture I have of the flying Camel at my field and it definitely has four equal sized spacers on the HS. Mind you, this is the prototype Camel (i.e. kit #1) and has a number of differences from our production kits. I also checked a picture I took when I picked up my kit at the factory in 2019. This shows a partially built Camel and it definitely has long spacers in back and no spacers in front. I can send you this picture if you can give me an email address.
The camel should have 2° incidence on all surfaces.
The original had a tendency to need down elevator in level flight.
@@curtreimer2150 thanks.
scott@iflyrc.com.au
I plan on rechecking everything once covered I will make a board up like a Robert incidence meter for model planes. I guess proof is in the flying.
The elevator cables over the leading edge: on upper and lower leading edges, put a low profile bracket riveted over a doily onto leading edge of stabilizer. It would have a piece of steel tubing, like brake line tubing, snugly fitting around a pin going through it, acting as a roller, that is attached between 2 ears of the bracket with double washers on each end of pin between roller and bracket. Thus, less friction (bad for cables) riding over a piece of leather that may get cut through on the first flight.
Thank you
Hi Scott , well done Sir, really cracking on now.
Thank you kindly
Looks fabulous with all the paint and decals done. I'm surprised that the cables rub against the tail and, I'm no expert, but wouldn't a bit of tubing help where the cables exit the fuselage? Or would that just wear too? Great work, great Scott! Thanks for sharing 🙏
Yes, I’ll finesse this area later on thanks
That is absolutely beautiful , I’ve flown this plane as a large model , but have never even seen one in person , I know little of aircraft engineering but you are spot on here as far as I can see at least from my small perspective of design and assembly . Such a lovely job mate , greetings from Canada !
Thank you
Excellent progress! Seriously exciting!
Thanks
Fantastic progress thanks for sharing!
Thanks for watching!
Mate you look like you’re building in the Antarctic!!
Not quite, -2C though
Heads up on the tailwheel chains, they will stretch in short order. They will become loose and allow the tailwheel to float.
As for the incidence on the horizontal stabilizer, most aircraft, they are centerline thrust of the prop and parallel. No + or - rake. I would try to get a hold of the company and ask them.
Thanks for the info. Manufacturer says 5 degrees positive, too much in my option but time will tell. I have set it up to the original plans.
+5° might be just right to avoid having to push down elevator when flying. On my Radio controlled 1/4 scale Pup, I have only 2 degrees, and I have to trim a lot of down elevator.
@@Graff-Art I retesting thanks
the angle of the tailwheel caster is critical. if at the improper angle, it can make the airplane tricky to handle. So you're right about getting the tailwheel right. And how the angle changes when the suspension deflects plays into that as well.
Thanks
Great work!
Thank you! Cheers!
I believe it's a compression spring that pulls through the middle to act as a tension spring . Looking good love the empennage (spelling?)
Thanks for the info
Hey Rowdy. I was just watching your vid about the tail hatch and ran into a similar thing with fasteners in my cubs floor and was going to use pk /self tappers until I found my old Rc flight box! I invert hysoled some t nuts onto the grommets backing - back drilled them and they’ve worked much better than rivnuts spinning and wallowing about (well for me anyway)… keep up the great work mate! That tail fitted up to the fuse looks simply brilliant!
Thank you
Scott, lovely job as usual. I was at the Shuttleworth Collection a few years ago and got some photos of their "Ikanopit" Camel. I just checked the photos to see where the elevator cables ran. The upper cables seem to stay well clear of the leading edge of the tailplane. I can e mail you the photo if it would help.
Thanks for the info!
Impecable trabajo, felicitaciones!!
Thank you
Great work again Scott. It is a masterpiece and this series is a master class. So wish I lived in Victoria so I could see her in the flesh! Can't wait for your next installment. Cheers.
Many thanks!
She looks gorgeous Scott!!!👍🧐😎
Thank you
I sound like a broken record Scott, but you're doing an awesome job. You must be " Well Pleased"
Oh, I have a small gift coming your way via a SDAC member you know who flies a "Converter". It might be a coffee table talking piece. Cheers.
Thank you? A convert or?
@@scottmatthews5280 haha, a Jet A-1 convertor (my bad)
Loving it with the tail fitted. Could you use thin PFTE blocks where the upper elevator wires cross the tailplane leading edge? Not traditional but maybe more durable>
Yes probably needs something but I’ll build on for now and finesse things later.
I think I’d replace the tail wheel ‘key chain’ clips with some kind of shackle, even with the springs attached you might get a significant shock load one day and the clips seem to be the weak point in the system. 👍
It is a tail wheel kit designed for the job but I’ll see how it goes.
Understood, thanks for the reply
Power on! Your moving along nicely. Great detail on how and why's!
Thanks 👍
I'd leave the tw chain length till it is all finished and adjust the slack then. ( after fuel and everything else is in and the weight is on the tw when you do your W&B.At this point in your build you cant see what the distance is from your rudder cable end and the chains .Wait and do this last. Your allready too tight with the wheel in the air..At all up weight ( wheels on the ground) chain should be a bit slack so the rudder does the work until the springs kick in and moves the tw. ( Camel Driver- speaking from experience)
Thanks for the tips
On the metal panel for the rudder cable, I would have used a leather patch and not the black edging. That just me .
Thanks, I might still do that.
Awesome Scott, keep up these videos. Do you think it will be 12 months as you said till you taxi it out. Seems like you will be done in half that but I definitely have never built an airplane to say haha.👍 Cheers
Who knows, aircraft will be ready long before I am ready to fly it!
Maybe Teflon on the leading edge with the leather?
Thank you
G'day,
Yay Team !
Ummm,
OK.
Reading from,
"Air Board Technical Notes"
Issued by
Controller
Technical Department
Published by the
Air Board,
1917.
Sopwith Biplane F.1.
(130 H.P. Clerget).
Rigging Notes.
Page 3
TRUING UP FUSELAGE (see Fig. 1).
The Side Struts are numbered from front to rear of Machine.
Support the Fuselage on two trestles, one placed under the first bay and the other under the last bay.
Starting at No. 1 vertical Side Strut mark points on consecutive Vertical Side Struts 15 & 1/4" , 15 & 1/4" ,
15 & 1/4" , 15 & 1/16" ,
13 & 17/32" , 11 & 5/16" ,
9 & 1/2" , 7 & 25/32" , respectively below the
UPPER SURFACE of the Top Longerons.
These marked points must be along the Thrust Line in Side Elevation when Fuselage is trued up.
Lightly clamp a Straightedge transversely across No. 3 Side Struts, the marked points to be on the UPPER EDGE....,"
PLACING THE MACHINE IN FLYING POSITION.
Before truing up the Centre Section and fitting the Main Planes it is necessary to get the Machine in Flying Position.
Page 4.
To do this support the machine by blocks placed under the Undercarriage Struts and on a Trestle placed under the Tail. The Machine is in Flying Position when the Front Spar at the Bottom of the Fuselage to which the Front Spars of the Lower Main Planes are attached, is level transversely and when the Top Longerons in the Pilot's Cockpit are level longitudinally.
Level longitudinally by raising or lowering the Tail and transversely by packing blocks under the Undercarriage Struts."
Page 5
FIXING THE EMPENNAGE
(see Figs. 3 and 4).
....."The INCIDENCE of the Tailplane is 1&1/2 Degrees.....
"The INCIDENCE can be measured by an Abbey Level over the Straightedge with the Machine in flying Position."
There you go Scott,
That's how to True-up the
Fuselage of a
Sopwith Camel, and then how far up/down the Stabilator should be
Pointing...
"By the Book".
As has
Bin-Noted,
Every Society
NEEDS it's
Fool On The Hill ;
And around here
They gave me that Gig...(!).
Who else has the
Original Rigger's Notes for a
Camel in
Hardcopy
(reprinted in 1999 by
Camden Miniature Steam Services
ISBN 0 9519367 8 6 )
to hand
And
Ready to consult (!) ?
Anyway,
Hopefully this all
Helps,
As a
Cross-Check ! (?).
Have a good one...
Stay safe.
;-p
Ciao !
Ha, nowadays we just use an inclinometer!
@@scottmatthews5280
Well, you did ask (!).
Basically it boils down to getting the
Top Fuselage Longerons
Level at the Cockpit & setting the Stabilator's Centreline at
1.5° +ve relative to that.
All the other stuff I included to demonstrate the point that I indeed referenced the
Origi-digi-nal
Source
Material.
With no
Guesstimations,
Right down to the
25/32th of an
Inch...(!).
You
Always knew
There was one
Pedantic Stickler out among the
Viewers
Who
Knew
The actual
ANSWER (!).
Such is life,
Have a good one...
Stay safe
;-p
Ciao !
That can’t be normal
Yes, as per the manufacturers direction. I might revisit it.
I hope you flew an AA Camel before building one.?
That’s a bit cryptic. Who would offer me their aircraft to fly? No I have not why?
@@scottmatthews5280 I know of one here that you could test fly, and would not AA offer a demo? I am saying it might be a good idea to fly one before spending the time building one.There was one built in Ontario - Beautiful .It flew it once and was taken apart and de -registered it. I asked why on earth he'd do that? answer- It flew awful. I hope you're flys better.
Mine is set up perfect so time will tell. This is one of only 3 in Australia.
Buy or borrow a lathe
What for in particular? The point was I don’t need one thanks
I agree with @stevegreen2432, below...
I honestly cannot, for the life of me, see how that could be right.
It seems a bit dodgy having the "up elevator" cables slowly sawing away at the tail plane while trying to fray themselves slowly to destruction every time they are actuated.
I'm not being critical, just thinking it might be one of those times where it is good to take a step back and assess...
An old aviator buddy of mine told me that most aircraft mechanical failures/crashes start months or even years before the event due to a lot of small, inconsequential-seeming assembly/maintenance/training decisions along the way that eventually cascade into failure. The devil is in the details.
Worried for your safety.
It’s part of the character of a camel, not saying it’s right. Also you are seeing this in the maximum down travel position don’t forget, I’ll also reduce the cable tensions. It’s how my designer intended it to be.
Okay, that makes sense.
Apologize if I sound critical. Spent most of my life in the Marine Corps, so I have a bad habit of being blunt.
I'm watching with I interest and enjoy your channel.