Love my espar after 4 winters with it. Something to keep an eye on. A dip in the muffler can collect Ltd moisture and freeze, plugging the exhaust. I had it happen the first winter.
I've only had my plans so far in my head for our build beginning of the next two years. Watching your videos has inspired me to start making an items list and drawing up some sketches.Ken, thank you for taking the time to share your experience. I am considering a hydronic system to both warm the engine, the interior and have domestic hot water. Thanks again. Who knows maybe one day everybody in this comment section will be doing a meet up in various places around the country.
What a difficult install, bravo Ken! The wiring looked very intimidating. You are a master craftsman in your van build, and also in filming it with your detailed documentary style. I have learned a great deal from you. If you ever need a place to rest up and reload your van during travels, my house and driveway are open to you - in Santa Clara, CA. I am also very good at fixing any health issues with supplements (over the counter) and back pain issues with targeted stretches. This knowledge I can pass on to you if you need it. Something to give back for all I have received. Many thanks!
I know. what you mean. This weekend's Sprinter project I thought I could do in a day...day three...haha. It would be a bit longer if you videoed all the time staring at the van during planning proccess. That proccess is part of the fun. That bench seat your are installing is slick.
Great video! The one thing I noticed, if you are particular about torqued bolts to correct ft/lb using multiple extensions will throw the torque off. 10/10 install
Good to know, I was not aware. I’ll have to think through that, it seems to me the extensions would transmit the same torque through them. But maybe not.
Your video provides very valuable information! Your setup is well thought-out and it's likely to drive mine toward the same direction. Thanks for taking the effort of sharing!
Thanks for the video. For future projects that need larger holes, consider a step bit for your drill. You can get them cheap and in different sizes at Harbor Freight (Under $10). Home Depot and Lowes carry brand names for a little more. Very handy items for making precise size holes easily. Buy the bigger size, as it will make small holes, too.
Excellent. Thanks so much as I'm getting ready to do this. Regarding the Dorman connector. Did you not need to T-off from the factory fuel connector? Someone else on the Sprinter Forum mentioned having to do that and using Dorman part # 800-176 which is a T. Maybe this is only required if you have the auxiliary fuel heater installed from factory? Or, how did you attach your Dorman connector? Did you cut an existing line? Thanks again.
Great video and nice install.. if you ever have any need to do any more work would it be possible to get the part number for your seat base ? I'm thinking of doing the same thing but uk-spec vans come with a slightly different seat base that doesn't allow for this type of install
Very nice install ! I am running an older D1 heater, still does a great job at heating. I do have one question, is there enough input air coming into the heater as it is mounted under the seat? I did not see a hose run for the input air. My instructions inform me that if a unit is placed in an area that is enclosed that one should make sure they have an air intake for the heater.
Great video, please keep them coming as you progress through your build. In fact, you should have your own Sunday morning car show!! I'm undecided about installing my D2 myself or hiring it out. If I may ask a quick question, because frankly; I trust your opinion more than my local Espar dealer. My vehicle is a 2016 MB 144.While haveing a discussion with the upfitter, specifically covering what is included in their insane estimate for the installation of a D2, they said that "tapping into the main fuel tank at the aux tank connector is problematic because it's a pressurized system and all adapters and splices will fail. Not to mention the heater will fail from running rich from the over pressurized fuel getting into the heater fuel supply." So their solution is to drop the tank and add a stand pipe. It seems excessive to me, dropping the fuel tank and adding a stand pipe for the Espar heaters pump to draw from. It also seems they've created a problem that no one else on the internet has ever had. My question to you is, is their point even rational? Is this something to even consider?They insist I'm not their personal test case, because they've installed 5 of these. That alone makes me a skeptic. Thanks for your time.
Thanks for the super fast reply. Your answer was as I expected. Sadly that means I must attempt this on my own. Unless of course you can be tempted by Oregon IPA, because like you said, now that you've done it, you could do it much faster next time! Keep the videos coming, they're very encouraging.
What was the response to this question? I am interested to know, because I just T’d off of the aux heater fuel line to run fuel to the pump. I am about to install the High Altitude kit.
There is no basis I can think of for that argument. Mercedes leaves the tap there for the purpose of auxiliary heating units. I've never heard of anyone having a problem.
Hello, I was looking at the Espar B4L M2 model for a Ford Transit, it says it works at high altitude out of the box with no adjustments. Have you heard about the new model? At the checkout and there's no place for your coupon code, was that just for the model you installed? Thanks for all the help and great video.
Yes, the newer models have the HA sensor built in. The coupon code is good for D4R D4L and D2L, as well as the older style D2, B4, D4, D4L. Unfortunately I'm not sure the one you mentioned qualifies for the discount. You can email heatso and ask, perhaps they'll honor the code?
kenetube, thanks for the very informative video. I'm wondering why you have the auxiliary battery setup and an additional lithium battery. Does the auxiliary serve any additional purpose? The reason for my question is I just put my order in for the new 2019 Sprinter (a change from the VW crafter), and I opted for no auxiliary battery.
Bit late to the party on this one but your vid is very well put together and informative. Question; Is there sufficient access to the heater fuses through that little cover in the side of the seat base when the seat and swivel assy. are in place?
Great video thanks for the info. Just to check I know you mentioned that the connections to the aux battery was temporary but please tell me you fused the wire at the connection?
Great video. Helpful info. Got a question. I'm in the planning stages of a Van build but i think I'm going a different route than the Sprinter,possibly a Gasoline Engine. Could I run an Espar Heater if I had a small Tank for Diesel and and a small Pump? Thanks for any info.
Thanks for the great video! I've got my D2 with altitude sensor installed and working, but haven't figured out (or found search results) how to change to Fahrenheit. How'd you do that?
Congrats on finishing a pretty complicated install! The instructions for changing from deg-C to deg-F should be detailed in the manual for whichever thermostat controller you bought. If you don't have it you can always google "Espar Easy Start Select manual" or whatever version you have. I was able to find mine in a PDF online.
Great heater i have one install at oktober 2015 and use it 2 winters -14. Works well does not use lotts off electra amd olso diesel.i have 2 140 amp Lithium battery install under front seats and heater at motor .Heats also motor.
I did the same install , I'm very good at wiring but found this install to be very intimidating but like you said after you do it once it would be a piece of cake to do it again. Thank you for your video I gathered a lot of info from your video and others , I definetly couldn't have done it with out the help. How did you change it from low , med , high , boost? Thank you for taking the time.
Congrats on the install! The Espar figures out the correct mode to run. It's interesting how it works--when you first turn it on, the furnace runs at full speed to bring the van to temperature. Once it hits the set point the Espar picks the correct speed to keep the van to temperature. It does this by measuring the temperature of the intake air and the room temp and tries to run at the lowest speed possible without exceeding the set temp. If set temp is exceeded, it shuts down. It's smart because the constant stopping and restarting uses more energy as it needs the glow plug to relight.
Congrats and BIG Thanks for your videos. In regards to the Espar; What unit did you get?; the Espar 2.2 KW or the 4 KW unit?. Thanks and keep the lights on for the rest of us.
Thank You Sir, I assume here in Europe they call the Espar Eperspächer...I will buy one with 4 kw utilizing my diesel tank..final question, if you knew that, how much battery was used keeping your sprinter warm in such a night?
Good video. Thanks. I'm getting my 2014 ready for D2 install. In your video I didn't see a mention of the wiring that goes to the dosing pump. From what I can determine, it is the branch that only has two wires. My D2 kit came with two red wire leads that have crimped connectors on one end and I think these plug into the dosing pump and then connect to the two wire harness. Am I on the right track?
Awesome video, saved me a ton of time figuring it out. I just have one question, what happens with the yellow wire coming out of the altitude sensor ? the wiring diagram says it should also be connected to the head unit.(?) Thanks
I looked back at the video and it looks like the yellow wire in the harness connects to the yellow in the high altitude sensor. Wiring diagram and my connections are shown at the 14 minute mark in the video. Is this consistent with your wiring?
Thanks for the great video. I am about to install my High Altitude Kit, and I am curious, did you bury it in the wall, or leave it exposed? the instructions say it can’t be in an “air-tight” location, and I am wondering if burying it behind the wall will create issues.
I did put mine in the wall behind the headliner. It's far from air tight as there are weep holes in the bottom of the body to allow water out, so there's no way for the wall to retain pressure (air) as you change altitude. Now I did not wrap it in insulation, it's between the insulation and the back side of the headliner.
excellent channel! i'm building a overland camper I'm about to order the espar heater but petrol... do you know what is the advantage to have the external thermometer?, thanks for let us know your wonderful install. Francisco.
Hey Ken, in another video they mentioned that the the exhaust pipe between the heater the silencer (muffler) needs to be shorter than the tail end. I verified via the espar manual in the notes section on pg 23. "if a silencer is fitted, the exhaust end pipe must be much shorter than the flexible exhaust pipe between the heater and the exhaust silencer." Not sure of the reasoning. Thanks for making this video. I've watched it about 50 times already prepping for my install.
Thanks Jim, I had read that as well. As usual I had to compromise...had I moved the muffler further downstream the exhaust would have needed to turn upward (in order to mount the muffler), and then you create a low point for condensation that will rust the exhaust. Always a compromise, it seems!
@@ourkaravan totally understand. Any tips on making the terminal connectors? I know its way easier using quick splices. Did you use a double crimp tool?
@@jim6335 Yes, I used these www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0069TRKJ0 for small gauge wire and these www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00MVE48Z6 for some of the larger stuff. They are reasonably priced, so I pulled the trigger and just bought them.
Hey, great video, very helpful. Are those factory swivel seats? I know the seat base is shorter with the factory swivel seats and I have been a little concerned about wether or not the espar would still fit under there. Thanks for your video and in advance for your response!
Nice Job! Can you tell me where to find the "grill" that you installed in the base of the passengers seat base (you removed the 2 clip access panel and replaced it with a grill at the end of this video) ?
Another question regarding the Power cable aspect of the loom and the fuse box. My POWER cable part of the loom has four wires, seems identical to yours. Two larger gauge RED and Brown for power and ground. I have a BLUE SEA fuse box under my drivers seat so I assumed I could hook up those two wires to my fuse box and use a 20Amp fuse at that terminal on the fuse box. IS that in error? Then I am left with what to do with the smaller gauge wires (Red and Red/White). I have not used the supplied holder as I uncertain on how to do so. My manual only shows a two wire power cable as opposed to four. Can I somehow connect them though a fuse box or do I need to have them on separate fuse holder. I see that you used the supplied fuse holder but that seems to be before you had added fuse boxes. You also seemed to have that under the passenger seat. I am confused as to where that would tie into my loom under passenger seat and I thought it would be better to have fuse closer to the power source. Did you alter any of your wiring once BlueSea fuse boxes were added? Additional question, did you have to modify your exhaust location when you added electric step? My exhaust will terminate under sliding door and I figure i should plan ahead for the possible addition of the step. Again, thank you. Your site is one of the most informative "how to" sites I have ever seen, across multiple disciplines.
Hi Charles, it's actually better to have the fuse located closer to the source...so yes, you can use that to fuse the wire to the Espar and then you won't need the fuse block supplied with the Espar. I recall two circuits, a 20 amp one for the glow plug start up and a 5 amp one to run the fan. It seems like you would need two runs of wires from your blue sea--a 20A one and a 5A one. Mine is still wired the way you saw in the video with no modification. I did move my espar exhaust to the other side of the van. There is actually a very good, straight and level path if your van is 2wd. Perhaps you can email me (contact link at ourkaravan.com) and I'll send you a photo. And thank you, I really appreciate the complements! Ken
Thanks I didn't think of it in the passenger seat the one I bought is bigger but we'll see if it fits I didn't know about the fuel line tap on the Sprinter so thanks that saves me from drilling a hole in a fuel tank which I didn't want to do
I have been looking around for something like this. Do you think that the gas version would burn cleaner? Have you opened up the unit for maintenance yet? Is it a pain to maintain? Thank you so much for answering my question. I do appreciate it.
Great video. Question - have you heard of this heater overheating when located under the seat? There is a espar sealer in denver and they WILL NOT install them under the seat because they said they overheat constantly in that location. Any thoughts? I’m not sure where to install mine but I want it under the seat.
Hi Great videos! Your site is supper helpful, thanks. I’m building a Sprinter now and currently installing a d2 espar. I got the quick connection you used, but can’t figure out how you went direct from the quick connect to the black tubing without a second reduction in tub diameter. The fuel hose that fits the black hose seems too small to force onto the quick connection. Any comment would be appreciated. Thank chris To
It was a couple of years now so I can't remember precisely how I did it, but you may want to think about heating up one of the sections of rubber hose and pushing it over something of about the same size as the quick connect to stretch it. That's assuming of course that it's at least close in size.
I just completed an install using your video and some blogs for reference. Thank you for taking the time to explain your method - very useful and helpful. One question: where can I find a vented cover for the under-seat access like you have?
Did you purchase a mounting bracket? Does the thermostat work without the external temperature sensor? Thank you for the great vids Ken, I have been using your amazon links. Hope it helps you out.
Great video and channel, definitely a new subscriber. Have you noticed any problem with condensation since you’re only taking combustion air from the outside, and not the cold air intake?
Thank you Kevin. My understanding is that since the combustion and exhaust occur outside the vehicle and only room air is drawn in and heated, if anything it should have a drying effect. I have had no issues with moisture.
Kent Sir, I’m getting the heater through your link. Which controller did you get? Did you get the mounting bracket and of so which one? What about high altitude sensor?
For my install I mounted mine directly through the floor using the supplied rubber gasket, so no mounting bracket. I did get the high altitude sensor and just the basic controller called the Easy Start Select. I hope that helps and good luck!
I believe the glow plug circuit has a 20 amp fuse, so that would be the max. But that is not a sustained current. The fan and metering pump average a couple of amps. Espar has the detailed specs on their website. Thanks for the complements!
Hi there! There are 4 wires hooking up to the battery. Did you use an inline fuse before attaching the wires to the battery. And which wires are attached to the positive terminal.
I've heard these diesel heaters are great . . . and would hate to ask a 'stupid' question. But : Can you install them into a non-diesel vehicle by installing a tiny tank to hold diesel for this heater ?
wow, your video makes it looks so easy and I want to install one of these in my Promaster campervan too. But I know there is a lot of hard work went into the installation. Thank you for sharing! Have you ever considered the webasto diesel heater when you planned the installation? Have you done any comparison between the two brands?
My Webasto heater has a knob that sets exact temperatures. I had it installed in my Sprinter about 4-5 months ago. I chose the "digital" thermostat. It cost a little more
Great Video as Always Ken! Quick question, do you have factory swivels with the lower seat bases or the standard high seat bases? I have heard of some issues with the lower seat bases and airflow but nothing to really go on. Thanks in advance!
I do have the factory swivels as well as the low seat bases. I can't imagine airflow being a problem as long as you use the slotted access door. That helps provide far more air flow to the Espar.
Hello, I am currently installing a D2. All is going well be I have one question: the battery connection line has 4 wires: brown (ground), big red, small red, and small red/white. Are the small wires all + and need to be independently fused? Is the brown wire the only one that needs to be run to ground? Thanks!
You'll have to confirm in the wiring diagram, but the thicker red is positive and connects the 20 amp fuse (this is the glow plug circuit), the smaller red is also positive and goes to the 5 amp fuse (for the fan motor), brown is ground and I believe the red/white is not used.
This is an awesome video, thanks for posting. It helped me to get almost all the way there. I was shipped a very different wiring harness that doesn't seem to be for this application. DO you happen to know the part number of the harness that you have? I'm dead in the water until I figure this part out. Thanks
Bummer, The part number is on the cable by the large wiring harness clip that connects by the heater (@9:26).I tried to screen grab, but it's just too blurry. That is also where my harness splits three ways, then ultimately terminating to two on the end of the very long bundles. There is no way for it to be installed in any manner that I can think of...and Heatso.com is playing dumb with the parts, that's also where I ordered. It's super frustrating. If I can find the part number that you have for your harness, I'll just order it and be done. The build is at a hold out while I try and sort this electrical nightmare. Thanks again for the help!
I know you added the Esper D2 last February, just wondering if you've you have used it enough to have an opinion about it's size and capacity? Also, did you order your Sprinter with the luggage rails or are you added those later?
Kenetube - Where did you get the replacement vent cover for the passenger seat base. Looks like a cool little detail to help provide airflow around the heater. Thanks for a great video!
Can the Espar unit be installed square against the right side of the seat base? The angle eats up precious space for other electrical components that I would like to use the space for. Seems like the perfect spot for a battery to battery charger for the house pack..
Hi Ken, I only just noticed that you did not show how you led the power wire to teh fuel pump? Did you run that wire through the boot under the drivers seat?
Hey, haven't seen you in a while. Yes, somehow that footage was missing from the final video. I did exactly that, ran it down though the boot in the driver's seat. Be sure to crimp the end connector on AFTER you've run it down to the pump.
I'm just installing my heater now. Instructions on CD included in my kit are a bit ambiguous for direction for the metering pump. Figure on page 24 (25.2720.90.0001.0A_EN_0518.pdf) is opposite than shown here at 4:45. However, page 10 of same pdf (scope of supply diagram) agrees with this video. Aaaargh!. My instructions also specify that longer exhaust piping before the muffler than after, compared to your comments around 7:30.
I can't access the document you're talking about but I know for sure my fuel pump is in the correct orientation. As for the exhaust piping, I do believe Espar recommends longer piping before the muffler, I *think* I had indicated in the video that they are quieter if the muffler is further upstream.
@@ourkaravan Thanks for the confirmation, I'm going with that orientation for my initial test. Need to wire up my controller and external temp sensor and then fire it up! :)
"Clearly, what we have here is a person too lazy to go to the store and buy the proper hole saw..." = LOL, I paused the video and clicked thumbs up immediately. Love it...and you did just as good of a job as the hole saw would have done. What is the undercoating material? It looks like it was painted on really thick...did you do that or did it come from Mercedes like that?
Ha, I thought I was going to be flamed like crazy for that but most responded pretty well to it. The undercoating is factory, I haven't added anything to the underside. Thanks for the comment!
I would highly recommend use of CO/LP alarm , that way you don't have to worry. amzn.to/2Q50cNK This one is hardwired. In short, I have to be careful not to have the sliding door open while the heater is running, but if it's cold enough the heater is running, then I don't have the sliding door open. That said, some day I may route the exhaust to the other side so I don't have to think about it. It's pretty much on the bottom of my list at this point. The exhaust is not hot enough to melt sealant.
Hey Ken, Did you just put the altitude sensor in the wall? Putting up my walls tomorrow and just wanted to see if the sensor needs access to fresh air to work
I did. That said, it's on top of the insulation and just in some dead space behind the wall. There's no way my wall is sealed, so it shouldn't affect operation. My Espar has not had a single hiccup at all. I would make it somewhat accessible though. If I remove the wall plate the thermostat is attached to, I can access the sensor.
Thanks man, that makes me feel better. My setup be the same, and I’m sure air will be able to get in. If I ever run into you on the road I’ll have to buy you a beer. Your videos have been a huge help
It still is on the aux. Works great and I see no reason to change it. Just note that the newer VS30 Sprinters have a smaller under-hood battery, 70 ah vs 95 on an NCV3 Sprinter. Might still be okay but something to note.
Hi again thank you for making the video. I didn't watch far enough to see where you had the wiring diagram and talked about the colors.. Again, it would have been helpful to see you connect the individual wires to the espar clip that snaps into the altitude unit.
I'm pretty sure I discussed that in the video. I showed the diagram and how you only use four wires between the HAC and the thermostat. Sorry if it wasn't clear.
Did you leave the power connected to the aux battery or did you ever move it back to the lithium bank in the back of the van? Pro's/Con's? I only have 1 starting battery in my rig, but the way you installed it would certainly make things much easier to leave it on the main battery.
I left it, for reasons that go beyond convenience. I figure if it's so cold that my Espar is running a lot, it probably means I wouldn't be generating much solar at that time, so it's better off being connected to the Aux battery that automatically charges off the alternator. The arrangement works great and takes advantage of battery power that would otherwise not be utilized.
Thoughts on doing that for my rig w/ just 1 house battery? Guessing best to go back to the battery bank. 2 more quickies: 1. Where did you put your Carbon Monoxide sensor? I just ordered same one you have from your store. 2. Did you do smoke alarm? Didn't see one in your store.
Do you have the factory Aux battery? When you say single house battery I'm wondering if you mean starting battery? If the latter, I wouldn't sleep as well on cold nights if it were hooked to my starting battery. In that case I think it's worth the trouble to hook it up to your house battery. I don't have a smoke alarm. If something is smoking in that small space I will know.
Good video thanks. There is no ground on a 12 DC system, it is a negative, hence the symbol on the battery, an AC system is grounded and has no negative,
Love my espar after 4 winters with it. Something to keep an eye on. A dip in the muffler can collect Ltd moisture and freeze, plugging the exhaust. I had it happen the first winter.
I've only had my plans so far in my head for our build beginning of the next two years. Watching your videos has inspired me to start making an items list and drawing up some sketches.Ken, thank you for taking the time to share your experience. I am considering a hydronic system to both warm the engine, the interior and have domestic hot water. Thanks again. Who knows maybe one day everybody in this comment section will be doing a meet up in various places around the country.
kenetube will do cheers!!!
What a difficult install, bravo Ken! The wiring looked very intimidating. You are a master craftsman in your van build, and also in filming it with your detailed documentary style. I have learned a great deal from you. If you ever need a place to rest up and reload your van during travels, my house and driveway are open to you - in Santa Clara, CA. I am also very good at fixing any health issues with supplements (over the counter) and back pain issues with targeted stretches. This knowledge I can pass on to you if you need it. Something to give back for all I have received. Many thanks!
Thank you, much appreciated! The electrical was definitely the most challenging part.
Great videos! You are a natural teacher. We were able to install our Max Air fan with your help. Thank you! Happy wandering.
Thank you, take care and enjoy that van!
Nice video I have an espar heater in my sprinter van in the rear and they work great. I ski camp all the time and I'm never cold
You make it look so easy Ken. Keep up the good work and cinematography.
I know. what you mean. This weekend's Sprinter project I thought I could do in a day...day three...haha. It would be a bit longer if you videoed all the time staring at the van during planning proccess. That proccess is part of the fun. That bench seat your are installing is slick.
Thanks for making these videos! I'm in the planning stages of my sprinter and showing where all the wires go really help!
Great video! The one thing I noticed, if you are particular about torqued bolts to correct ft/lb using multiple extensions will throw the torque off. 10/10 install
Good to know, I was not aware. I’ll have to think through that, it seems to me the extensions would transmit the same torque through them. But maybe not.
Your video provides very valuable information! Your setup is well thought-out and it's likely to drive mine toward the same direction. Thanks for taking the effort of sharing!
Truck House Life does a really good install video of a webasto heater..
Thanks for the video. For future projects that need larger holes, consider a step bit for your drill. You can get them cheap and in different sizes at Harbor Freight (Under $10). Home Depot and Lowes carry brand names for a little more. Very handy items for making precise size holes easily. Buy the bigger size, as it will make small holes, too.
Wow really great install and great video. I'll be following along with your entire van build.
Excellent video!! After a week long Yosemite trip in 30 deg temps without a heater, this is next on my list!
I’m copying your installation. Thank you for all the time you put into these videos
night heater running in my cab at work....enjoying your skills 😎
Excellent. Thanks so much as I'm getting ready to do this. Regarding the Dorman connector. Did you not need to T-off from the factory fuel connector? Someone else on the Sprinter Forum mentioned having to do that and using Dorman part # 800-176 which is a T. Maybe this is only required if you have the auxiliary fuel heater installed from factory? Or, how did you attach your Dorman connector? Did you cut an existing line? Thanks again.
Great video and nice install.. if you ever have any need to do any more work would it be possible to get the part number for your seat base ? I'm thinking of doing the same thing but uk-spec vans come with a slightly different seat base that doesn't allow for this type of install
Excellent install my friend! Very impressive. Thanks again for sharing
Eric
Big Transit Adventures
Transit Adventures
Dave Conley transit sucks
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K. S. Hunt transit? This is sprinter
Very nice install ! I am running an older D1 heater, still does a great job at heating. I do have one question, is there enough input air coming into the heater as it is mounted under the seat? I did not see a hose run for the input air. My instructions inform me that if a unit is placed in an area that is enclosed that one should make sure they have an air intake for the heater.
Great video, please keep them coming as you progress through your build. In fact, you should have your own Sunday morning car show!! I'm undecided about installing my D2 myself or hiring it out. If I may ask a quick question, because frankly; I trust your opinion more than my local Espar dealer. My vehicle is a 2016 MB 144.While haveing a discussion with the upfitter, specifically covering what is included in their insane estimate for the installation of a D2, they said that "tapping into the main fuel tank at the aux tank connector is problematic because it's a pressurized system and all adapters and splices will fail. Not to mention the heater will fail from running rich from the over pressurized fuel getting into the heater fuel supply." So their solution is to drop the tank and add a stand pipe. It seems excessive to me, dropping the fuel tank and adding a stand pipe for the Espar heaters pump to draw from. It also seems they've created a problem that no one else on the internet has ever had. My question to you is, is their point even rational? Is this something to even consider?They insist I'm not their personal test case, because they've installed 5 of these. That alone makes me a skeptic. Thanks for your time.
Thanks for the super fast reply. Your answer was as I expected. Sadly that means I must attempt this on my own. Unless of course you can be tempted by Oregon IPA, because like you said, now that you've done it, you could do it much faster next time! Keep the videos coming, they're very encouraging.
What was the response to this question? I am interested to know, because I just T’d off of the aux heater fuel line to run fuel to the pump. I am about to install the High Altitude kit.
There is no basis I can think of for that argument. Mercedes leaves the tap there for the purpose of auxiliary heating units. I've never heard of anyone having a problem.
Hello, I was looking at the Espar B4L M2 model for a Ford Transit, it says it works at high altitude out of the box with no adjustments. Have you heard about the new model?
At the checkout and there's no place for your coupon code, was that just for the model you installed? Thanks for all the help and great video.
Yes, the newer models have the HA sensor built in. The coupon code is good for D4R D4L and D2L, as well as the older style D2, B4, D4, D4L. Unfortunately I'm not sure the one you mentioned qualifies for the discount. You can email heatso and ask, perhaps they'll honor the code?
kenetube, thanks for the very informative video. I'm wondering why you have the auxiliary battery setup and an additional lithium battery. Does the auxiliary serve any additional purpose? The reason for my question is I just put my order in for the new 2019 Sprinter (a change from the VW crafter), and I opted for no auxiliary battery.
Bit late to the party on this one but your vid is very well put together and informative. Question; Is there sufficient access to the heater fuses through that little cover in the side of the seat base when the seat and swivel assy. are in place?
Great video thanks for the info.
Just to check I know you mentioned that the connections to the aux battery was temporary but please tell me you fused the wire at the connection?
Great video. Helpful info.
Got a question.
I'm in the planning stages of a Van build but i think I'm going a different route than the Sprinter,possibly a Gasoline Engine.
Could I run an Espar Heater if I had a small Tank for Diesel and and a small Pump?
Thanks for any info.
Very well done!
Any thought on the air intake inside the van needing a port vs from under the seat?
Great job . Do you know if they offer that for ford transit 2016 ..? Thank you 👍🏽🙂
Thanks for the great video! I've got my D2 with altitude sensor installed and working, but haven't figured out (or found search results) how to change to Fahrenheit. How'd you do that?
Congrats on finishing a pretty complicated install! The instructions for changing from deg-C to deg-F should be detailed in the manual for whichever thermostat controller you bought. If you don't have it you can always google "Espar Easy Start Select manual" or whatever version you have. I was able to find mine in a PDF online.
Great heater i have one install at oktober 2015 and use it 2 winters -14.
Works well does not use lotts off electra amd olso diesel.i have 2 140 amp Lithium battery install under front seats and heater at motor .Heats also motor.
I did the same install , I'm very good at wiring but found this install to be very intimidating but like you said after you do it once it would be a piece of cake to do it again.
Thank you for your video I gathered a lot of info from your video and others , I definetly couldn't have done it with out the help.
How did you change it from low , med , high , boost?
Thank you for taking the time.
Congrats on the install! The Espar figures out the correct mode to run. It's interesting how it works--when you first turn it on, the furnace runs at full speed to bring the van to temperature. Once it hits the set point the Espar picks the correct speed to keep the van to temperature. It does this by measuring the temperature of the intake air and the room temp and tries to run at the lowest speed possible without exceeding the set temp. If set temp is exceeded, it shuts down. It's smart because the constant stopping and restarting uses more energy as it needs the glow plug to relight.
Congrats and BIG Thanks for your videos. In regards to the Espar; What unit did you get?; the Espar 2.2 KW or the 4 KW unit?. Thanks and keep the lights on for the rest of us.
Excellent job! How is the noise level having the heater in the seat console? Can you sleep and run it at night?
Thank You Sir, I assume here in Europe they call the Espar Eperspächer...I will buy one with 4 kw utilizing my diesel tank..final question, if you knew that, how much battery was used keeping your sprinter warm in such a night?
Good video. Thanks. I'm getting my 2014 ready for D2 install. In your video I didn't see a mention of the wiring that goes to the dosing pump. From what I can determine, it is the branch that only has two wires. My D2 kit came with two red wire leads that have crimped connectors on one end and I think these plug into the dosing pump and then connect to the two wire harness. Am I on the right track?
thanks. did you route the two wire harness along the same path as the fuel line since they're both going to the same place?
Awesome video, saved me a ton of time figuring it out.
I just have one question,
what happens with the yellow wire coming out of the altitude sensor ?
the wiring diagram says it should also be connected to the head unit.(?)
Thanks
I looked back at the video and it looks like the yellow wire in the harness connects to the yellow in the high altitude sensor. Wiring diagram and my connections are shown at the 14 minute mark in the video. Is this consistent with your wiring?
Very informative video. Did you put drain hole at the lowest point of the exhaust pipe as indicated in the install manual?
I did not, but probably should.
Thanks for the great video. I am about to install my High Altitude Kit, and I am curious, did you bury it in the wall, or leave it exposed? the instructions say it can’t be in an “air-tight” location, and I am wondering if burying it behind the wall will create issues.
I did put mine in the wall behind the headliner. It's far from air tight as there are weep holes in the bottom of the body to allow water out, so there's no way for the wall to retain pressure (air) as you change altitude. Now I did not wrap it in insulation, it's between the insulation and the back side of the headliner.
excellent channel! i'm building a overland camper I'm about to order the espar heater but petrol... do you know what is the advantage to have the external thermometer?, thanks for let us know your wonderful install.
Francisco.
thanks for the response!... did you try your induction cooker with the 1000W inverter?, I want to have the same system in my camper.
kenetube thank you I'm waiting for you to buy all the electronics because I want to use the induction with a 400ah batteries. Thanks again!
Hey Ken, in another video they mentioned that the the exhaust pipe between the heater the silencer (muffler) needs to be shorter than the tail end. I verified via the espar manual in the notes section on pg 23. "if a silencer is fitted, the exhaust end pipe must be much shorter than the flexible exhaust pipe between the heater and the exhaust silencer." Not sure of the reasoning. Thanks for making this video. I've watched it about 50 times already prepping for my install.
Thanks Jim, I had read that as well. As usual I had to compromise...had I moved the muffler further downstream the exhaust would have needed to turn upward (in order to mount the muffler), and then you create a low point for condensation that will rust the exhaust. Always a compromise, it seems!
@@ourkaravan totally understand. Any tips on making the terminal connectors? I know its way easier using quick splices. Did you use a double crimp tool?
@@jim6335 Yes, I used these www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0069TRKJ0 for small gauge wire and these www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00MVE48Z6 for some of the larger stuff. They are reasonably priced, so I pulled the trigger and just bought them.
You did have right tools, but you make it nice and clean works
Hey, great video, very helpful. Are those factory swivel seats? I know the seat base is shorter with the factory swivel seats and I have been a little concerned about wether or not the espar would still fit under there. Thanks for your video and in advance for your response!
That's great news; we just ordered our 4x4 with factory swivels seats. Thanks again!
Nice Job! Can you tell me where to find the "grill" that you installed in the base of the passengers seat base (you removed the 2 clip access panel and replaced it with a grill at the end of this video) ?
Another question regarding the Power cable aspect of the loom and the fuse box. My POWER cable part of the loom has four wires, seems identical to yours. Two larger gauge RED and Brown for power and ground. I have a BLUE SEA fuse box under my drivers seat so I assumed I could hook up those two wires to my fuse box and use a 20Amp fuse at that terminal on the fuse box. IS that in error? Then I am left with what to do with the smaller gauge wires (Red and Red/White). I have not used the supplied holder as I uncertain on how to do so. My manual only shows a two wire power cable as opposed to four. Can I somehow connect them though a fuse box or do I need to have them on separate fuse holder.
I see that you used the supplied fuse holder but that seems to be before you had added fuse boxes. You also seemed to have that under the passenger seat. I am confused as to where that would tie into my loom under passenger seat and I thought it would be better to have fuse closer to the power source. Did you alter any of your wiring once BlueSea fuse boxes were added?
Additional question, did you have to modify your exhaust location when you added electric step? My exhaust will terminate under sliding door and I figure i should plan ahead for the possible addition of the step.
Again, thank you. Your site is one of the most informative "how to" sites I have ever seen, across multiple disciplines.
Hi Charles, it's actually better to have the fuse located closer to the source...so yes, you can use that to fuse the wire to the Espar and then you won't need the fuse block supplied with the Espar. I recall two circuits, a 20 amp one for the glow plug start up and a 5 amp one to run the fan. It seems like you would need two runs of wires from your blue sea--a 20A one and a 5A one. Mine is still wired the way you saw in the video with no modification.
I did move my espar exhaust to the other side of the van. There is actually a very good, straight and level path if your van is 2wd. Perhaps you can email me (contact link at ourkaravan.com) and I'll send you a photo.
And thank you, I really appreciate the complements!
Ken
Just love the vacuum and de burring
Dude! Awesome detailed presentation. You rock!! :)
Thanks I didn't think of it in the passenger seat the one I bought is bigger but we'll see if it fits I didn't know about the fuel line tap on the Sprinter so thanks that saves me from drilling a hole in a fuel tank which I didn't want to do
Most US Sprinters have the aux fuel tap but I've heard some Canadian vans don't have it for whatever reason.
Pro job if I ever saw one. How does it work? Can this be installed in a gasser and maybe provide a secondary tank for the diesel?
I have been looking around for something like this. Do you think that the gas version would burn cleaner? Have you opened up the unit for maintenance yet? Is it a pain to maintain? Thank you so much for answering my question. I do appreciate it.
It does. Thank you for taking the time to respond. It means a lot.
Great video. Question - have you heard of this heater overheating when located under the seat? There is a espar sealer in denver and they WILL NOT install them under the seat because they said they overheat constantly in that location. Any thoughts? I’m not sure where to install mine but I want it under the seat.
Thx. I might just need to find another person to install it under the seat.
Hi
Great videos! Your site is supper helpful, thanks. I’m building a Sprinter now and currently installing a d2 espar. I got the quick connection you used, but can’t figure out how you went direct from the quick connect to the black tubing without a second reduction in tub diameter. The fuel hose that fits the black hose seems too small to force onto the quick connection. Any comment would be appreciated. Thank chris
To
It was a couple of years now so I can't remember precisely how I did it, but you may want to think about heating up one of the sections of rubber hose and pushing it over something of about the same size as the quick connect to stretch it. That's assuming of course that it's at least close in size.
Thanks indeed, that was the missing information I was looking for! Decided i'll get one...keep posting your vdos..very interesting!
I absolutely love your choice in music.
I just completed an install using your video and some blogs for reference. Thank you for taking the time to explain your method - very useful and helpful. One question: where can I find a vented cover for the under-seat access like you have?
Thanks! I just placed an order.
Did you purchase a mounting bracket? Does the thermostat work without the external temperature sensor? Thank you for the great vids Ken, I have been using your amazon links. Hope it helps you out.
kenetube Great thanks so much!
Thanks for this great video with plenty of info for a good install!
I appreciate the positive feedback! Love the heater...
Great video and channel, definitely a new subscriber. Have you noticed any problem with condensation since you’re only taking combustion air from the outside, and not the cold air intake?
Thank you Kevin. My understanding is that since the combustion and exhaust occur outside the vehicle and only room air is drawn in and heated, if anything it should have a drying effect. I have had no issues with moisture.
Kent Sir, I’m getting the heater through your link. Which controller did you get? Did you get the mounting bracket and of so which one? What about high altitude sensor?
For my install I mounted mine directly through the floor using the supplied rubber gasket, so no mounting bracket. I did get the high altitude sensor and just the basic controller called the Easy Start Select. I hope that helps and good luck!
amazing work.! Thank you. So what is peak power. Continuous? I’m wiring from the house batteries from the back right of my van.
I believe the glow plug circuit has a 20 amp fuse, so that would be the max. But that is not a sustained current. The fan and metering pump average a couple of amps. Espar has the detailed specs on their website. Thanks for the complements!
great how to ! good workaround for not having a hole saw. keep making the videos. who did you buy your heater from?
Hi there! There are 4 wires hooking up to the battery. Did you use an inline fuse before attaching the wires to the battery. And which wires are attached to the positive terminal.
I've heard these diesel heaters are great . . . and would hate to ask a 'stupid' question.
But : Can you install them into a non-diesel vehicle by installing a tiny tank to hold diesel for this heater ?
wow, your video makes it looks so easy and I want to install one of these in my Promaster campervan too. But I know there is a lot of hard work went into the installation. Thank you for sharing!
Have you ever considered the webasto diesel heater when you planned the installation? Have you done any comparison between the two brands?
Eli Dai webasto is just three times more money.
My Webasto heater has a knob that sets exact temperatures. I had it installed in my Sprinter about 4-5 months ago. I chose the "digital" thermostat. It cost a little more
Great Video as Always Ken! Quick question, do you have factory swivels with the lower seat bases or the standard high seat bases? I have heard of some issues with the lower seat bases and airflow but nothing to really go on. Thanks in advance!
I do have the factory swivels as well as the low seat bases. I can't imagine airflow being a problem as long as you use the slotted access door. That helps provide far more air flow to the Espar.
Hello, I am currently installing a D2. All is going well be I have one question: the battery connection line has 4 wires: brown (ground), big red, small red, and small red/white. Are the small wires all + and need to be independently fused? Is the brown wire the only one that needs to be run to ground?
Thanks!
You'll have to confirm in the wiring diagram, but the thicker red is positive and connects the 20 amp fuse (this is the glow plug circuit), the smaller red is also positive and goes to the 5 amp fuse (for the fan motor), brown is ground and I believe the red/white is not used.
This is an awesome video, thanks for posting. It helped me to get almost all the way there. I was shipped a very different wiring harness that doesn't seem to be for this application. DO you happen to know the part number of the harness that you have? I'm dead in the water until I figure this part out.
Thanks
Bummer, The part number is on the cable by the large wiring harness clip that connects by the heater (@9:26).I tried to screen grab, but it's just too blurry. That is also where my harness splits three ways, then ultimately terminating to two on the end of the very long bundles. There is no way for it to be installed in any manner that I can think of...and Heatso.com is playing dumb with the parts, that's also where I ordered. It's super frustrating. If I can find the part number that you have for your harness, I'll just order it and be done. The build is at a hold out while I try and sort this electrical nightmare.
Thanks again for the help!
I know you added the Esper D2 last February, just wondering if you've you have used it enough to have an opinion about it's size and capacity? Also, did you order your Sprinter with the luggage rails or are you added those later?
Kenetube - Where did you get the replacement vent cover for the passenger seat base. Looks like a cool little detail to help provide airflow around the heater. Thanks for a great video!
kenetube Thanks, super helpful.
Can the Espar unit be installed square against the right side of the seat base? The angle eats up precious space for other electrical components that I would like to use the space for. Seems like the perfect spot for a battery to battery charger for the house pack..
Well...I am at this stage now:) There are so many choices to purchase the Espar D2 from Heatso...which one did you purchase?
Such a clear video guide. Thank you.
Hi, I really appreciate your channel. Question: Is the Airtronic S2/M2 the newer version of the Espar D2 Heater?
Thanks! Not sure, I have never heard of those models.
Where did you get the swivel adapters for your sprinter seats? Are you happy with them? Thanks JC
Hi Ken, I only just noticed that you did not show how you led the power wire to teh fuel pump?
Did you run that wire through the boot under the drivers seat?
Hey, haven't seen you in a while. Yes, somehow that footage was missing from the final video. I did exactly that, ran it down though the boot in the driver's seat. Be sure to crimp the end connector on AFTER you've run it down to the pump.
I'm just installing my heater now. Instructions on CD included in my kit are a bit ambiguous for direction for the metering pump. Figure on page 24 (25.2720.90.0001.0A_EN_0518.pdf) is opposite than shown here at 4:45. However, page 10 of same pdf (scope of supply diagram) agrees with this video. Aaaargh!.
My instructions also specify that longer exhaust piping before the muffler than after, compared to your comments around 7:30.
I can't access the document you're talking about but I know for sure my fuel pump is in the correct orientation. As for the exhaust piping, I do believe Espar recommends longer piping before the muffler, I *think* I had indicated in the video that they are quieter if the muffler is further upstream.
@@ourkaravan Thanks for the confirmation, I'm going with that orientation for my initial test. Need to wire up my controller and external temp sensor and then fire it up! :)
Great job and thanks for sharing! Is it a 4x4 model?
2WD is enough ;-). Enjoy!
great install looks like a really good heater !
Just what I needed. Thanks!
"Clearly, what we have here is a person too lazy to go to the store and buy the proper hole saw..." = LOL, I paused the video and clicked thumbs up immediately. Love it...and you did just as good of a job as the hole saw would have done.
What is the undercoating material? It looks like it was painted on really thick...did you do that or did it come from Mercedes like that?
Ha, I thought I was going to be flamed like crazy for that but most responded pretty well to it.
The undercoating is factory, I haven't added anything to the underside. Thanks for the comment!
Where did you find your adapters to run from the larger fuel line to the smaller line? Having a hard time finding the right reducers. Thx
The reducer I used was part of the kit I bought. Wish I had more info for you.
Thanks for the video! How much fuel does the heater use?
That it is! Thanks for your response!
Did you ever received an answer on the fuel consumption?
FUEL CONSUMPTION, Gallons per hour
BOOST
D2 - .07
D4 - .13
HIGH
D2 - .06
D4 - .10
MEDIUM
D2 - .04
D4 - .07
LOW
D2 - .03
D4 - .03
Clean work. You are an inspiration for my build that im starting next week! Cheers
Did you ever have any problem with the exhaust air location and have to extend it to the back?
Ken, any issues with diesel exhaust? I know one person that routed the exhaust to the driver side
Hi Ken, have you had any worries regarding exhaust outlet from aspar? Does the outlet melt the underbody sealant.
I would highly recommend use of CO/LP alarm , that way you don't have to worry. amzn.to/2Q50cNK This one is hardwired. In short, I have to be careful not to have the sliding door open while the heater is running, but if it's cold enough the heater is running, then I don't have the sliding door open. That said, some day I may route the exhaust to the other side so I don't have to think about it. It's pretty much on the bottom of my list at this point. The exhaust is not hot enough to melt sealant.
The exhaust gets quite warm on mine. Any issues with the factory undercoating around the exhaust?
No issues in 7 years of use.
Why the D2 and not the D5? Are you finding the D2 adequate in cold weather? How cold?
D2 is the most commonly used unit in a van. It puts out plenty of heat for my needs, but the coldest temps I experience are around 20 degrees F.
Excellent video and content. Thank you!
I live in Minnesota, I imagine the espar heater would be roaring like a storm in winter time here?
Hey Ken,
Did you just put the altitude sensor in the wall? Putting up my walls tomorrow and just wanted to see if the sensor needs access to fresh air to work
I did. That said, it's on top of the insulation and just in some dead space behind the wall. There's no way my wall is sealed, so it shouldn't affect operation. My Espar has not had a single hiccup at all. I would make it somewhat accessible though. If I remove the wall plate the thermostat is attached to, I can access the sensor.
Thanks man, that makes me feel better. My setup be the same, and I’m sure air will be able to get in.
If I ever run into you on the road I’ll have to buy you a beer. Your videos have been a huge help
@@brodyspeck5912 Sounds good, I enjoy meeting others on the road. :)
Just to clarify I would ask..if I buy the kit from Heatso it has a muffler that is included? Otherwise called the Exhaust silencer?
my Eberspacher D2 is still working very vell after many hours use . innstald in 2005 in a Mb 312d sprinter
Great to hear, thanks!
Any way you can make a video with it running? I would love to hear it. Great Job!
Great video. Where did you get those swivels?
They are the factory MB swivels that I ordered on the van. I think it's only available on cargo vans, for some strange reason.
Very well done! Thank you for helping me with your video!
You are a Champ.. thank you Ken
Thanks for this. Much appreciated. I will be doing my Espar install this summer.
Hey Ken.
For how long did you live with the heater connected to the aux battery? Any issues with that aux battery handling the load?
It still is on the aux. Works great and I see no reason to change it. Just note that the newer VS30 Sprinters have a smaller under-hood battery, 70 ah vs 95 on an NCV3 Sprinter. Might still be okay but something to note.
@@ourkaravan Thx! I have been looking for the ah information on the aux batteries for the 2019s.... where did you find that info??
I could be mistaken but I believe I saw that on sprinter forums. It should be printed on the battery though.
Hi again thank you for making the video. I didn't watch far enough to see where you had the wiring diagram and talked about the colors.. Again, it would have been helpful to see you connect the individual wires to the espar clip that snaps into the altitude unit.
I'm pretty sure I discussed that in the video. I showed the diagram and how you only use four wires between the HAC and the thermostat. Sorry if it wasn't clear.
Did you leave the power connected to the aux battery or did you ever move it back to the lithium bank in the back of the van? Pro's/Con's? I only have 1 starting battery in my rig, but the way you installed it would certainly make things much easier to leave it on the main battery.
I left it, for reasons that go beyond convenience. I figure if it's so cold that my Espar is running a lot, it probably means I wouldn't be generating much solar at that time, so it's better off being connected to the Aux battery that automatically charges off the alternator. The arrangement works great and takes advantage of battery power that would otherwise not be utilized.
Thoughts on doing that for my rig w/ just 1 house battery? Guessing best to go back to the battery bank.
2 more quickies:
1. Where did you put your Carbon Monoxide sensor? I just ordered same one you have from your store.
2. Did you do smoke alarm? Didn't see one in your store.
Do you have the factory Aux battery? When you say single house battery I'm wondering if you mean starting battery? If the latter, I wouldn't sleep as well on cold nights if it were hooked to my starting battery. In that case I think it's worth the trouble to hook it up to your house battery.
I don't have a smoke alarm. If something is smoking in that small space I will know.
Makes sense about both where to run the espar wiring and also smoke alarm. Thx again for your help!
No problem!
I don't have the auxiliary battery or solar installed yet. Any suggestions on how to power the Espar in the interim?
Good video thanks. There is no ground on a 12 DC system, it is a negative, hence the symbol on the battery, an AC system is grounded and has no negative,
Excellent stuff! thank you.