Change Standard Outlet to GFCI- Old Box MELTED!! Replaced With New Box
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- Опубликовано: 19 янв 2024
- Here I will be changing a standard outlet to a GFCI outlet in a bathroom. When taking out outlet the box had melted so I changed out the old box to a new plastic box. I explain the code of where GFCI's need to go and how they work. Please throw in some comments if you want to see anything next! Thank you!
Tools You'll Need!
Milwaukee M12 Impact
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Klein Linemans/Pliers
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Klein Voltage Tester
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Klein Plug/GFCI Tester
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Milwaukee Wire Strippers
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Klein Trim/Flat Blade Screwdriver
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Stanley Utility Knife
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GFCI TR Outlet
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Single Gang Decora Plate
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Funny. I'm going around my house changing GFCI's to standard outlets.
Wow great video! I shocked myself so bad I pissed myself trying to change one of these! And my right eye doesn’t close anymore. Now I know how.
It looked like all of the wires were white. After identifying the Hot I would suggest wrapping it with black or red tape to show it is a hot and not a neutral.
most helpful, hands on instructional video I 've seen! And I do watch DIY videos for almost anything to repair or improve in my old hose.
Thanks for the support!
That box melted & burned because of high resistance (loose connection or corrosion) at the termination in the upper left of that receptacle. Since that receptacle feeds another circuit. You should investigate there as well. The GFCI is appropriate for the outlet near the sink, but it may not have prevented this overheating issue.
Agreed! Turns out a microwave in the kitchen was tapped off of it
We came back from a trip and due to a lightning storm we had a power outage in our area. No problem. Everything was on when we got back except the freezer and a refrigerator in our shop building we're on a circuit with a GFCI outlet. Unfortunately, the power outage caused the GFCI outlet to trip and it actually didn't come on since that must be done manually. The food was ruined and the freezer at a half a beef in it. I'm in the process of removing GFCI outlets in the house and shop building (except for the circuits I installed with outdoor outlets). We survived without them in the 60s and 70s and 80s. We'll live.
I'm sick and tired of being protected to death.
Sometimes you just don’t need it
Now I know how to install a GFCI. I will have to redo it. Thanks for the hints. Good job.
Glad it helped!
If that was the hot that broke, then that receptacle was wired wrong. Why is the insulation so bleached out? And modifying the box like that is a Code violation. The right way is to use an old work box with the toggle ears.
If there's a solid surface such as a stud it's best to mount directly on to it than us plastic tabs a metal box after seeing that burnt away j box definitely would be a much better choice for a replacement j box. He should have pig tailed that hot leg; it's to Short. The receptacle location seems to be rather high up from the counter top surface as Will.
@@Kat-on3nm There is an old work box that can be screwed directly to the stud, and is Code compliant. The box he used is not, when screwed on like he did.
As for the height above the counter, that is not a Code issue.
Unless he was the original installer, what would he know about the previous installation. How would he know the insulation was discolored? He said up front he's showing how to replace one, not about home rewiring? Are you a licensed electrician? Doubtful? If not, who are you to be spouting NEC requirements? Your another one of those Wannabe DIY Suoerhero's, aren't you?
@@nothankyou5524 One, it is obvious to a blind person that the wires are discolored, one is grey and the other is a pinkish color. Signs of possible overheating. If you are so smart, tell us what the NEC says about conductor insulation color requirements. Two, I never said anything about rewiring. And neither did the uploader. Three, I am a licensed electrician of over 40 years in two states. Four, not doubtful at all. Five, someone who has Code books back to the late 1980's from when I first started in the trade. Six, you with the no content 7 sub 9 year old account are the superhero troll. Good day to you.
Best part of this series is your whole house is going to be rewired and updated, huge resell bonus as well as having a youtube channel lol
Hell ya so dang true! The wife has a bunch of ideas lol
Running high wattage hair dryers will produce heat that will melt insulation and plastic outlet boxes. 🔥
excellent teaching skills
Thank you!
That burned box was most likely from an extended overload. A hot wire touching ground would have popped the breaker immedeately, before that much heat was generated. Somebody probably replaced the outlet and didn't replace the box. Why the wires werent also fried is a mystery. Maybe that's why the hot was so short on that side. It could have been a loose screw or one of those push-in connectors (which I never use anymore) Any ideas?
True! Figured it out. First off it was a weak breaker and it’s on a 15 amp circuit. With that being said the kitchen was remodeled and mounted a microwave which pulls 14 amps and it shares a wall with the bathroom with that outlet and they pulled from that. Breaker should have tripped but never did.
First of all, look about 6:58 into the video. One wire is wrapped the wrong way around the screw and the other wire is barely under the screw. Then there are the code violations. Dedicated circuits for kitchen receptacles have been a code requirement since the 1950's! And code also requires 20 amps for kitchen circuits not 15. Newer code requires a dedicated 20 amp circuit for bathrooms. Hairdryers use around 15 amps (more or less depending on wattage). Also, code since the 1980s requires GFCI bathroom outlets, especially within 6 feet of the sink. The wires got hot due to bad connections, not a short. That's why the box burned. Glad to see there wasn't a house fire with wiring done that poorly!
When who ever replaced the outlet they cut the burnt section of the hot wire off that is why the wire is so short and doesn't show that it was over loaded. A good electrician would have pig tailed the hot wire.
Nicely done. Good job. 😊
Thank you!
Great presentation
Thank you!
That was interesting, thanks!
Thank you!
I would have pig tailed the hot in consideration of the next guy that has to work on it.
True that but luckily it’s just under a pressure plate of the GFI
Why wouldn't you use an old work (remodel) box which is made for this purpose instead of a modified new work box?
Ya great question! Totally would have but I had a shallow “trailer house” style cut in box and a nail on box, on hand, and I wanted room for the GFI so I went with the nail on. Didn’t expect to have to change out the box at the beginning of the video and it turned out that way lol
@@AwesomeSauceElectric they make old work boxes that you can screw into the stud
old work boxes suck ass for using with GFCIs. bad enough with regular outlets. ARLINGTON F101F boxes much better choice
Appreciate the input! Thanks guys
I would not use an impact driver for this job. I will pre-drill the new plastic box, 3 holes, a triangle layout. 2 holes closer to the sheetrock. Ground wire is code requirement. Frankly, there is zero chance that you will ever need the ground. A working GFI will cut off the power in milli-Amp leakage.
That’s pretty extensive, thanks for the input!
Why didn't you use an old work box with tabs that adjust to thickness of the sheetrock.?
I like securing to a stud but that would also work
Why do you connect the downstream wires to the load side? When the GFCI trips, anything downstream will be shut off. Could be lights or who knows what. Unless you are sure you need GFCI protection for the downstream side, it seems like it should be connected to the line side along with the feed wires.
As long as you have the protection available, you might as well use it.
The problem with multiple outlets on a GFCI is when the GFCI trips you have multiple more suspects to trouble shoot. One GFCI per outlet in my book.
why not just get a retrofit box instead?
It’s what I had on hand and I could secure it to a stud
It’s what I had on hand and a stud right next to it
Congratulations on not pulling some sort of Milwaukee battery tool.
Also dedicated receptacles don’t have a be gfci.
If you install a duplex receptacle it needs to be GFI, but if by dedicated you mean a uniplex or single plug-in then you are correct.
What I mean by dedicated is dedicated. Exclusively allocated to or intended for a particular service or purpose. Exclusively means exclusively. Thank you for evaluating my comment Captain Obvious.
What is the load side powering? If it is another outlet in the bathroom your are good. But if it is powering another room you just messed up and should have had both wires on the line side.
Another outlet under sink that was added before
@@AwesomeSauceElectricAll is good. There is an apartment complex in my town that must have had a drunk man on a Friday night wiring the circuits. Here is one example, they ran the home run to the outlet in the bathroom then to the other outlet which then branches off to power the bedroom right behind it, then it continues to the light switch for the bathroom. So in this instance you would need two GFCI's with all the wires on the line side for both GFCI's. Yes it is an electricians nightmare getting work orders to fix that jumbled mess.
Lol! Holy cow what a nightmare! I'm sure they just dread getting work orders for there. But man I can feel for them guys, it sure does suck trying to fix a handy man special. @@jonesgang
@@AwesomeSauceElectricI have got well over 50+ calls for those properties in the past 6 years. All I can say is it is never boring.
@@jonesgang More power to you man! Crappy work is job security lol
Are you really a Welder ? the reason i ask is that you have your hat on backwards.
Just the way it is man lol
trim screwdriver? even over dramatic entitled union sparkies ditched individual screwdrivers for 6in1s,11in1s. tecchnically you dont have to have separate GFCIs . GFCI protect 1st in the required area, daisy chain off the load side . gfci protecting a GFCI asking for nuisance callbacks
I would have had extended the line hit wire
Same, I can't believe he did the pull test on the other wires but not the most important one. I hope that hot feed wire holds good with just an eighth of a inch of copper showing.
Agreed. Plus, when I see a wire that's overheated that badly, I either cut off the damaged end or cleanup the copper. There's usually a lot of oxidation on the overheated copper. You could use fine sandpaper, a knife, or one sharp edge of your wire cutters to clean off the oxidation. Then, if your wire is too short like this one, use a short piece of the same gauge wire and a wire nut to extend it.
You've fixed one code violation, now you need to address 2 more. That outlet for the microwave needs to be on a dedicated 20 amp circuit only used for kitchen outlets. Combining kitchen and bathroom outlets is a violation and a 15 amp branch circuit for kitchen appliances is another one. Newer code requires a dedicated 20 amp circuit for the bathroom, so you should address that too if you can. I see you already have a video showing your full breaker panel and how to get more capacity. Hopefully, you can fish new 12/2 w/g from the panel to those outlets.
Agreed! Already looking into it and it’s going to be fun 😅
Wow great video! I shocked myself so hard I pissed myself trying to change one of these! And my right eye doesn’t close anymore. Now I know how!