Hello sir! We want to send you blessings and good health, and thank you for creating these wonderful videos. They are all very, VERY, helpful and we have learned a lot. You have helped us save a lot of money in restoring furniture and finishing the stairs of our home. Thank you again! My family appreciates you.
Thanks so much Paul, I love the channel. I’m a lousy woodworker, but am making good use of your videos to refinish a lot of cabinetry onboard the ship which I’m a crew member of. All the best!
Paul I hope all is well, It's been 4 months since you've Uploaded a video. I Hope you're just taking a break. I just checked out your channel and I've been doing painting staining and finishing, I haven't been shown professionally but I've learned how to do it, Far as I know... Well I look forward to hearing back from you God-bless you thank you for sharing I know this information has been a blessing to many people even myself. *... I worked For A guy That Didn't really Teach* By watching, and paying attention, I've learned Some, and I do OK, But, I have questions. Hopefully we'll be able to talk one day God-bless you thanks again bye for now you're new friend Ken.
Hi. Paul I love your tutorials and have learnef soooo much. I have very old , antique doors in my 130 years old house that I would like to refinish with tung oil. Do you offer a consultation on wood projects ? I need an advice and guide on how to best refinis my door. Emilia
This was very helpful, thank you! You are straight to the point and kept it simple. I have a mid century modern dresser that I painted years ago and now I'm stripping the paint and restoring it. I got the paint off yesterday but think I need another pass with the stripper but was afraid it would damage the wood. Mineral spirits wasn't removing the gumminess left. Question: the doors have woven wood (much finer than cane). The paint is coming up but will take some work to get it out of the grooves. I tried a nylon brush but think I need to get more paint lifted with the remover first. Any ideas of how to get that off?? Thanks in advance!
Good Morning Paula. I am a retired chiropractor myself! That's a tuff project. Strippers are pretty tough stuff and thin strips of wood can be easily damaged. You'll need a fine bristle brush (like a soft toothbrush bristle) to get into the weaves. Also I would switch to a lacquer thinner for cleanup. Be careful though I assume the woven part was glued to a piece of solid wood and depending on the glue used the woven wood may lift. I'm not recommending this (some danger) but I used my air compressor after applying stripper to highly detailed carvings on my mother's hope chest. It worked but there is a contact risk. best . . .paul
@@paulsDIYsolutions Hi Paul! Well isn't that a fun fact! I didn't think chiropractors ever retired! Where did you practice? I made a lot of progress on my dresser today. I did another coat of Citristrip which pulled all the gumminess off. Then I used the paint thinner to wipe the excess and that worked beautifully just like you said! The paint is coming off the woven part but that is really gummy too. I may try to paint remover on that. I'll keep you posted! Thanks for the quick reply!
Thank you Paul , nothing beats the voice of experience well delivered. You haven’t mentioned anywhere about scraping paint off with a carbide tipped scrapers. I have one and on harder Timbers it seems effective. Am I doing the wrong thing?
Hey Leah. Happy to be a part of the journey. Thanx for watching and your feedback. I'm sure you,learned a lot of other things form Dad!! best . . . paul
Love your videos, you are very thorough - good learning for me. My question relates to painting, how fine of a sandpaper should I use after I have removed old paint, and it seems unnecessary to take it down and have all the paint removed if I am not going to stain the piece.
Hey Sherry. Tough question. The end before painting would be a 180 grit but if there are paint remnants you'll be sanding all week at 180 (and end up hating your project). Long and short, you should end up at a 180 before painting. Coarser grit will remove paint remnants faster. best . . . paul
Hi Paul! I just found your channel and I've watched a couple of your videos, really great information here, thank you very much! I have a question about finishing wood by burning. Have you used this method and what do you think of it? Is there anything specific to take into account considering the wood itself? Br, Aleksi
Hi paul ,i am new to the channel, like it very much because yu teach,im also new in wood. Im retired . I will like to ask you is if can do a finish after use ODIES's oilto my cofee table.if i can, what can of finish? Excuse my english, I'm from Colombia but have been. in the states for 25 years.thank you very much.
Hey Tatry. I wouldn't Odies is a hard wax oil. I'm not sure of the binding capablity of a clear finish over a wax oil. Sorry wish I had experience in the this process but I never tried. best . . . paul
Paul, thanks for making all these videos. I’ve been a framing carpenter since 2002 and am just getting into woodworking and wood finishing. Turns out all my knowledge doesn’t mean 💩 when it comes to sanding, stripping, and staining. Quick question, what state do u live in? I’m in PHX/Scottsdale, AZ. Need to find a local expert like yourself…
Hey John. Touche!! I'm terrible at framing and trim work!! I'm in Cjicago area and but Scottsdale sounds wonderful right now as winter is approaching. best . . . paul
Hi- great videos and really helpful, thank you!! I have a question,I’ve bought an old house that has beautiful wood beams and ceilings that have all Ben painted with thick white cheap paint. Do you have any recommendations for using paint stripper on wood ceilings so that it is effective, efficient and safe? Ps it’s my first time using paint stripper and I’ve purchased all of your suggested materials, but feel nervous about working on something overhead. Thanks in advance for any suggestions!! 😊
Hey Katie. I would not use a stripper in an overhead application. Way to dangerous for you and your surroundings. Sorry I can't offer any good suggestions. best . . . paul
Hey Paul, thanks for all the amazing work you do between your videos and your PDFs on your website. As a novice attempting to refinish my first piece of furniture I'm finding all your advice incredibly valuable. One quick question for you: How do I know whether it's worth it to remove the paint from a piece instead of just painting over it? I've read that modern primers can be applied directly over top of painted surfaces with only a light sanding. This would save me a ton of work (and supplies) if it's indeed the case. Have you ever tried this and are there any downsides? Thanks
Hey kool. Paints today are amazing. They stick to anything (almost). By far the fastest way is to paint over a surface. A good washing and a light sanding and you're ready to go. On the other hand if you like the look of real wood and it's a good piece refinsihing is the way to go. Srtripping is hard work, messy and the supplies are expensive. I often recommend finding a local strip joint (not that kind) and the them do the removal and you do the finishing. Reclaiming wood furniture is spevial these days because most medium to low end furniture isn't real wood and some are wood replicas (think Ikea) that will never be collectable and are going to be massive land fill products. Hope that helps. Thanx for watching and commenting. best . . .paul
Thanks for the great videos. I have a whole staircase with handrails and treads to sand and oil. The wood is Babinga. I will be sanding it and applying Pure Tung Oil. It's 100% pure tung oil and I wont be adding/diluting it with any spirit/thinners. The wood has visible imperfections because the machine that cut all the wood pieces was old and didn't do a perfect job so the finish has some swirls and tiny holes here n there. Question please, what grit to start on and what grit to end on before I apply the oil? I'm thinking: 100, filler repair, 100, filler repair, 120, oil, 180, oil, 220, oil, 220, oil, 300, oil, 400.
Hey Pandonia. Pure Tung Oil takes awhile to dry depending on temp and humidity. Figure 5-10 days between coats. Polymerized tung oil dries overnight (again depending on temp and humidity). Thinning helps with both penetartion and dry times. I strongly recommend it. Also are you talking wood filler or grain filler? Also I would put down a coat or two and then fill. Oil enhances the wood's fibers (as it does your skin) and the filler may block it. I would sand all the way to 400 grit and then start oiling. best . . . paul
@@paulsDIYsolutions Thanks for the reply Paul. The filler is goodfilla filler. No sure if this is wood or grain filler. What is the difference? You mentioned to sand upto 400 then oil. But isn't 400 too fine and will reduce the oil penetration? I will only be filling the holes, so will use little filler. As for thinning, I just dont want chemicals. It in a very hot country so dont see the oil taking much time to dry.Thanks again
@@pandonia77 Wood filler is for filling major defects (holes. nail head insets, gouges, etc). Grain filler makes the wood fibers even and surface very smooth. Hot is one thing, low humidity is essential for fast dry times.
Hey Luke. I'm old and us old guys have some really bad habits. Not using respirators and hearing protection is one of my major flaws (my wife has a more extensive list). I hope everyone reads your post, it's important. Thanx. best . . . paul
Hi Paul - I wasn't sure how to ask a question or if you're still checking comments. We have almost completed covering the interior (walls & ceiling) of a rustic cabin with raw pine tongue & groove. We want to seal the raw pine boards with a polyurethane. It's a big job with lots of square footage. What would you recommend in terms of product, tools and methods? We would prefer to use a water-based poly so it won't yellow the look of the pine boards and be less toxic while applying. Thank you so much & hope you are well!
Hey rmk. I won't mention that it's best to finish the boards before hanging. I'm sure you have a lot of scrap. Experiment with water vs oil based. On pine you won't see much difference yet it's so much easier to work with oil as it has a longer set up time which helps in the application especially since you have so much to cover. Pine yellows automatically when wet and with finish it dries with the same wet look. Water vs oil won't make that much difference on pine. You never mentioned if it is a new place or a place fully occupied. Sounds like your pretty handy and with a small learning curve you might consider HVLP sprayer. If there's no furniture I would spray it. best . . . paul
@@paulsDIYsolutions Thanks so much for the info! Yes, we considered finishing before hanging but being winter in Ohio, there was no way to do this outdoors and not enough room inside. There's a small amount of furniture in there. But when I reached out to the manufactures of the poly, they said it can't be used in sprayers - at least not the water-based because it dries too quickly.
Thank you for these great videos! May I ask: What should I use if I want to repaint wood I've stripped, but without having the paint soak into the wood? It will be repainted with latex semi-gloss. Thank you!!
Awesome videos Paul! I'm considering whether or not to strip old varnish or to just sand it and add another coat. When should old varnish be completely stripped vs. sanded and re-applied? I suppose that if the wood is showing it might be better to strip it so that the finish is more consistent?
Hey Stephan. Stripping is always preferred as it get you down to raw wood. Varnish is a surface coating which means it really doesn't penetrate any fibers or flow into the wood's pores. This leaves it susceptible to peeling, cracking and chipping. Oils are penetrating finishes and soak into the wood between it's fibers and into it's pores. Stripping takes time, energy and can be costly which is the downside. best . . . paul
Thanks@@paulsDIYsolutions. I loved your video about tung oil and spar varnish. I will probably be doing that on our boat soon. Wishing you the best and looking forward to any new videos you create.
Hi Paul, thank you for providing such great and detailed information. Learned so much from you. I will be staining brand new red oak kitchen cabinets. What are your thoughts on gel stain? And what would be the right product to finish with? Would you recommend polyurethane or Paul’s Combo?
Hey Julie. Oak takes stain well so you won't need a prestain conditioner. I personally HATE gel stains but if you can find a color you like (gels are limited in color) they can work. Whatever you do you only have one shot to get it right so practice on the cabinet insides with both your staining and clear finish. You could also buy a piece of red oak at your local lumbaryard or hardwood store. Big box stores might have some as well. The combo finish is easier and tends to be more fullproof. Brushing polyurethane is not hard but does take a little practice. I'm here if you have other concerns. best . . . paul
@@paulsDIYsolutions thank you so much! I will be doing some testing and will let you know how it turns out. If you hate gel stains, I don’t see how a newbie can make it work perfectly, so I’ll avoid for now. Thank you so much ❤️
@@juliek1893 Hey Julie. If you can find the color you want in a gel stain it's okay. I don't like it because there are sooo many more color choices in liquid stains plus I ofetn mix one or two together to get the shade I want. I can't do that with gel stain. best . . . paul
Hey Paul, I’m redoing my kitchen Cabinets and I’ve sanded and applied my stain. I was wondering what the best way is to apply a polyurethane on the cabinets, I’ve watched your videos about doing the 3:1 ratio with mineral spirits but didn’t know if you would still do that since that was being used on a flat horizontal surface.
Hey Dalton. I assume you mean a vertical surface. Just in case the answer is yes to both vertical and horizontal. Especially if it's being done on a vertical surface. Remember the goal is to apply ultra, ultra thin coats where we build up thickness with multiple coats (i would do 3 coats on cabinets). Thick coats are hard to control, tend to run and end up looking like a plastic mess. best . . . paul
Thanx Butterfly. Your about the 5th person to mention it. I don't know what happened but ity just happened. I will check this week. Thanx again. best . . . paul
I went ahead and sanded down some old cabinet fronts. They had a thick paint on them I did not use a stripper I sanded them is the process still the same after doing that with the way you treat the wood
Hi I responded to your other question first. If you are planning on staining the cabinets you really have to get them down to bare wood or the stain won't saturate. best . . . paul
Great videos thank you. After I have finished stripping and cleaned with lacquer thinner and it has dried I need to put oil back in. Question I want to use mineral oil. How much do I use? After oiling do I wait 7 days before sanding? Thank you again! Chris
Hey Chris. Too properly answer that let me ask you what your next steps are? Are you going to stain or just go with a clear wood finish? Which finish are you thinking?
@@user-io4qq5xp9l Perfect. You can use a mineral oil (they sell it as butcher block or slad bowl oil). Apply liberally and let sit for 5 minutes or until you notice that there are dry spots where the oil has saturated the wood then wipe it off. Allow to dry overnight a night or two. Sand with a 180 grit paper and apply an oil based stain. Allow to dry don't sand unless there is still grain raise (there shouldn't be). If you have to sand you'll probably have to add stain again. At this point you should be ready for your clrear coat. best . . . paul
Paul I used the mineral oil and it transformed the piece it looks FABULOUS. Trully amazing it brought out the different color woods in the piece. Now I want to leave it natural!!!!! What should I so since I used the mineral oil on it already....you were very specific in your advise previously of asking me what I wanted to do?? What should I do to leave it natural now that I put mineral oil on it. It will be a high use piece so please what do you recommend my next steps be. Thank you very much for taking the time to answer everyone's questions.... quite amazing Chris
Hello sir! We want to send you blessings and good health, and thank you for creating these wonderful videos. They are all very, VERY, helpful and we have learned a lot. You have helped us save a lot of money in restoring furniture and finishing the stairs of our home. Thank you again! My family appreciates you.
Hi Adam. Thanx appreciate the feedback. Glad to be of some help. Thanx for watching and the blessing. best . . . paul
Excellent guide as always Paul!
Thanx Kyle.
Thanks so much Paul, I love the channel. I’m a lousy woodworker, but am making good use of your videos to refinish a lot of cabinetry onboard the ship which I’m a crew member of. All the best!
Hey Touched. Glad to be a part of the voyage. Crewing a ship sounds like fun. best . . . paul
Thank you so much for sharing your in depth knowledge. I researched these topics a lot and yours is the best out there.
Thanx Veda-La. Glad to be of some help. Thanx for watching and your feedback. best . . . paul
Paul I hope all is well, It's been 4 months since you've Uploaded a video. I Hope you're just taking a break.
I just checked out your channel and I've been doing painting staining and finishing, I haven't been shown professionally but I've learned how to do it, Far as I know...
Well I look forward to hearing back from you God-bless you thank you for sharing I know this information has been a blessing to many people even myself.
*... I worked For A guy That Didn't really Teach* By watching, and paying attention, I've learned Some, and I do OK, But, I have questions. Hopefully we'll be able to talk one day God-bless you thanks again bye for now you're new friend Ken.
Thank you Paul ❤ this is a great place to start. I'm refinishing some old night stands
Thanx Keeks. I'm here if you have other questions. Welcome to refinishing the right way. best . . . paul
Great video! Thank you! Cheers from the Canary Islands
Thank you from the Chicago suburbs hacodp. The islands sound better! best . . . paul
Hi. Paul
I love your tutorials and have learnef soooo much. I have very old , antique doors in my 130 years old house that I would like to refinish with tung oil. Do you offer a consultation on wood projects ?
I need an advice and guide on how to best refinis my door.
Emilia
This was very helpful, thank you! You are straight to the point and kept it simple. I have a mid century modern dresser that I painted years ago and now I'm stripping the paint and restoring it. I got the paint off yesterday but think I need another pass with the stripper but was afraid it would damage the wood. Mineral spirits wasn't removing the gumminess left. Question: the doors have woven wood (much finer than cane). The paint is coming up but will take some work to get it out of the grooves. I tried a nylon brush but think I need to get more paint lifted with the remover first. Any ideas of how to get that off?? Thanks in advance!
Good Morning Paula. I am a retired chiropractor myself! That's a tuff project. Strippers are pretty tough stuff and thin strips of wood can be easily damaged. You'll need a fine bristle brush (like a soft toothbrush bristle) to get into the weaves. Also I would switch to a lacquer thinner for cleanup. Be careful though I assume the woven part was glued to a piece of solid wood and depending on the glue used the woven wood may lift. I'm not recommending this (some danger) but I used my air compressor after applying stripper to highly detailed carvings on my mother's hope chest. It worked but there is a contact risk. best . . .paul
@@paulsDIYsolutions Hi Paul! Well isn't that a fun fact! I didn't think chiropractors ever retired! Where did you practice? I made a lot of progress on my dresser today. I did another coat of Citristrip which pulled all the gumminess off. Then I used the paint thinner to wipe the excess and that worked beautifully just like you said! The paint is coming off the woven part but that is really gummy too. I may try to paint remover on that. I'll keep you posted! Thanks for the quick reply!
Thank you Paul , nothing beats the voice of experience well delivered. You haven’t mentioned anywhere about scraping paint off with a carbide tipped scrapers. I have one and on harder Timbers it seems effective. Am I doing the wrong thing?
Hey Darryl. Absolutely not. If you are getting good results why change? best . . . paul
Paul you are awesome. You are teaching me all the things my dad never did. Thank you! 🫶🏼
Hey Leah. Happy to be a part of the journey. Thanx for watching and your feedback. I'm sure you,learned a lot of other things form Dad!! best . . . paul
Love your videos, you are very thorough - good learning for me. My question relates to painting, how fine of a sandpaper should I use after I have removed old paint, and it seems unnecessary to take it down and have all the paint removed if I am not going to stain the piece.
Hey Sherry. Tough question. The end before painting would be a 180 grit but if there are paint remnants you'll be sanding all week at 180 (and end up hating your project). Long and short, you should end up at a 180 before painting. Coarser grit will remove paint remnants faster. best . . . paul
Hi Paul! I just found your channel and I've watched a couple of your videos, really great information here, thank you very much! I have a question about finishing wood by burning. Have you used this method and what do you think of it? Is there anything specific to take into account considering the wood itself? Br, Aleksi
Hey Alek. Sorry I have never attempted wood burning so I don't consider myself a reliable resource. best . . . paul
Hi paul ,i am new to the channel, like it very much because yu teach,im also new in wood. Im retired . I will like to ask you is if can do a finish after use ODIES's oilto my cofee table.if i can, what can of finish? Excuse my english, I'm from Colombia but have been. in the states for 25 years.thank you very much.
Hey Tatry. I wouldn't Odies is a hard wax oil. I'm not sure of the binding capablity of a clear finish over a wax oil. Sorry wish I had experience in the this process but I never tried. best . . . paul
Paul, thanks for making all these videos. I’ve been a framing carpenter since 2002 and am just getting into woodworking and wood finishing. Turns out all my knowledge doesn’t mean 💩 when it comes to sanding, stripping, and staining.
Quick question, what state do u live in? I’m in PHX/Scottsdale, AZ. Need to find a local expert like yourself…
Hey John. Touche!! I'm terrible at framing and trim work!! I'm in Cjicago area and but Scottsdale sounds wonderful right now as winter is approaching. best . . . paul
Hi- great videos and really helpful, thank you!! I have a question,I’ve bought an old house that has beautiful wood beams and ceilings that have all Ben painted with thick white cheap paint. Do you have any recommendations for using paint stripper on wood ceilings so that it is effective, efficient and safe? Ps it’s my first time using paint stripper and I’ve purchased all of your suggested materials, but feel nervous about working on something overhead. Thanks in advance for any suggestions!! 😊
Hey Katie. I would not use a stripper in an overhead application. Way to dangerous for you and your surroundings. Sorry I can't offer any good suggestions. best . . . paul
Thank you so much for your response, really appreciate it
Hey Paul, thanks for all the amazing work you do between your videos and your PDFs on your website. As a novice attempting to refinish my first piece of furniture I'm finding all your advice incredibly valuable.
One quick question for you:
How do I know whether it's worth it to remove the paint from a piece instead of just painting over it? I've read that modern primers can be applied directly over top of painted surfaces with only a light sanding. This would save me a ton of work (and supplies) if it's indeed the case. Have you ever tried this and are there any downsides?
Thanks
Hey kool. Paints today are amazing. They stick to anything (almost). By far the fastest way is to paint over a surface. A good washing and a light sanding and you're ready to go. On the other hand if you like the look of real wood and it's a good piece refinsihing is the way to go. Srtripping is hard work, messy and the supplies are expensive. I often recommend finding a local strip joint (not that kind) and the them do the removal and you do the finishing. Reclaiming wood furniture is spevial these days because most medium to low end furniture isn't real wood and some are wood replicas (think Ikea) that will never be collectable and are going to be massive land fill products. Hope that helps. Thanx for watching and commenting. best . . .paul
Thanks for the great videos. I have a whole staircase with handrails and treads to sand and oil. The wood is Babinga. I will be sanding it and applying Pure Tung Oil. It's 100% pure tung oil and I wont be adding/diluting it with any spirit/thinners. The wood has visible imperfections because the machine that cut all the wood pieces was old and didn't do a perfect job so the finish has some swirls and tiny holes here n there. Question please, what grit to start on and what grit to end on before I apply the oil? I'm thinking: 100, filler repair, 100, filler repair, 120, oil, 180, oil, 220, oil, 220, oil, 300, oil, 400.
Hey Pandonia. Pure Tung Oil takes awhile to dry depending on temp and humidity. Figure 5-10 days between coats. Polymerized tung oil dries overnight (again depending on temp and humidity). Thinning helps with both penetartion and dry times. I strongly recommend it. Also are you talking wood filler or grain filler? Also I would put down a coat or two and then fill. Oil enhances the wood's fibers (as it does your skin) and the filler may block it. I would sand all the way to 400 grit and then start oiling. best . . . paul
@@paulsDIYsolutions Thanks for the reply Paul. The filler is goodfilla filler. No sure if this is wood or grain filler. What is the difference? You mentioned to sand upto 400 then oil. But isn't 400 too fine and will reduce the oil penetration? I will only be filling the holes, so will use little filler. As for thinning, I just dont want chemicals. It in a very hot country so dont see the oil taking much time to dry.Thanks again
@@pandonia77 Wood filler is for filling major defects (holes. nail head insets, gouges, etc). Grain filler makes the wood fibers even and surface very smooth. Hot is one thing, low humidity is essential for fast dry times.
@@paulsDIYsolutions Thanks Paul. And you're sure about sanding to 400 then oiling?
Paul is superhuman, haven't seen a respirator yet.
Hey Luke. I'm old and us old guys have some really bad habits. Not using respirators and hearing protection is one of my major flaws (my wife has a more extensive list). I hope everyone reads your post, it's important. Thanx. best . . . paul
Hi Paul - I wasn't sure how to ask a question or if you're still checking comments. We have almost completed covering the interior (walls & ceiling) of a rustic cabin with raw pine tongue & groove. We want to seal the raw pine boards with a polyurethane. It's a big job with lots of square footage. What would you recommend in terms of product, tools and methods? We would prefer to use a water-based poly so it won't yellow the look of the pine boards and be less toxic while applying. Thank you so much & hope you are well!
Hey rmk. I won't mention that it's best to finish the boards before hanging. I'm sure you have a lot of scrap. Experiment with water vs oil based. On pine you won't see much difference yet it's so much easier to work with oil as it has a longer set up time which helps in the application especially since you have so much to cover. Pine yellows automatically when wet and with finish it dries with the same wet look. Water vs oil won't make that much difference on pine. You never mentioned if it is a new place or a place fully occupied. Sounds like your pretty handy and with a small learning curve you might consider HVLP sprayer. If there's no furniture I would spray it. best . . . paul
@@paulsDIYsolutions Thanks so much for the info! Yes, we considered finishing before hanging but being winter in Ohio, there was no way to do this outdoors and not enough room inside. There's a small amount of furniture in there. But when I reached out to the manufactures of the poly, they said it can't be used in sprayers - at least not the water-based because it dries too quickly.
Thank you for these great videos! May I ask: What should I use if I want to repaint wood I've stripped, but without having the paint soak into the wood? It will be repainted with latex semi-gloss. Thank you!!
Hey Bluesky. You could use a sealer on the wood. Shellac is common. best . . .paul
Awesome videos Paul! I'm considering whether or not to strip old varnish or to just sand it and add another coat. When should old varnish be completely stripped vs. sanded and re-applied? I suppose that if the wood is showing it might be better to strip it so that the finish is more consistent?
Hey Stephan. Stripping is always preferred as it get you down to raw wood. Varnish is a surface coating which means it really doesn't penetrate any fibers or flow into the wood's pores. This leaves it susceptible to peeling, cracking and chipping. Oils are penetrating finishes and soak into the wood between it's fibers and into it's pores. Stripping takes time, energy and can be costly which is the downside. best . . . paul
Thanks@@paulsDIYsolutions. I loved your video about tung oil and spar varnish. I will probably be doing that on our boat soon. Wishing you the best and looking forward to any new videos you create.
Hey Paul, hope all is well. How about some new videos? Your presentations are excellent !!!!
Hey M. Working on a few ideas. Thanx for commenting. best . . . paul
Hi Paul, thank you for providing such great and detailed information. Learned so much from you. I will be staining brand new red oak kitchen cabinets. What are your thoughts on gel stain? And what would be the right product to finish with? Would you recommend polyurethane or Paul’s Combo?
Hey Julie. Oak takes stain well so you won't need a prestain conditioner. I personally HATE gel stains but if you can find a color you like (gels are limited in color) they can work. Whatever you do you only have one shot to get it right so practice on the cabinet insides with both your staining and clear finish. You could also buy a piece of red oak at your local lumbaryard or hardwood store. Big box stores might have some as well. The combo finish is easier and tends to be more fullproof. Brushing polyurethane is not hard but does take a little practice. I'm here if you have other concerns. best . . . paul
@@paulsDIYsolutions thank you so much! I will be doing some testing and will let you know how it turns out. If you hate gel stains, I don’t see how a newbie can make it work perfectly, so I’ll avoid for now. Thank you so much ❤️
@@juliek1893 Hey Julie. If you can find the color you want in a gel stain it's okay. I don't like it because there are sooo many more color choices in liquid stains plus I ofetn mix one or two together to get the shade I want. I can't do that with gel stain. best . . . paul
Hey Paul, I’m redoing my kitchen Cabinets and I’ve sanded and applied my stain. I was wondering what the best way is to apply a polyurethane on the cabinets, I’ve watched your videos about doing the 3:1 ratio with mineral spirits but didn’t know if you would still do that since that was being used on a flat horizontal surface.
Hey Dalton. I assume you mean a vertical surface. Just in case the answer is yes to both vertical and horizontal. Especially if it's being done on a vertical surface. Remember the goal is to apply ultra, ultra thin coats where we build up thickness with multiple coats (i would do 3 coats on cabinets). Thick coats are hard to control, tend to run and end up looking like a plastic mess. best . . . paul
Thank you!
Hey Paul, I went to your site and it says, Account Suspended. Do you have another web site? Thanks
Thanx Butterfly. Your about the 5th person to mention it. I don't know what happened but ity just happened. I will check this week. Thanx again. best . . . paul
Всегда бывает интересно послушать взрослых умных людей. Я ✍ся, вы?
I went ahead and sanded down some old cabinet fronts. They had a thick paint on them I did not use a stripper I sanded them is the process still the same after doing that with the way you treat the wood
Hi I responded to your other question first. If you are planning on staining the cabinets you really have to get them down to bare wood or the stain won't saturate. best . . . paul
@@paulsDIYsolutions do I need to put the lacquer thinner on after sanding the paint all off or do I just condition wood
Great videos thank you.
After I have finished stripping and cleaned with lacquer thinner and it has dried I need to put oil back in.
Question I want to use mineral oil. How much do I use? After oiling do I wait 7 days before sanding?
Thank you again!
Chris
Hey Chris. Too properly answer that let me ask you what your next steps are? Are you going to stain or just go with a clear wood finish? Which finish are you thinking?
I am going to stain it. I will most likely use a satin finish polyurethane. I am working on a 1960 dresser.
@@user-io4qq5xp9l Perfect. You can use a mineral oil (they sell it as butcher block or slad bowl oil). Apply liberally and let sit for 5 minutes or until you notice that there are dry spots where the oil has saturated the wood then wipe it off. Allow to dry overnight a night or two. Sand with a 180 grit paper and apply an oil based stain. Allow to dry don't sand unless there is still grain raise (there shouldn't be). If you have to sand you'll probably have to add stain again. At this point you should be ready for your clrear coat. best . . . paul
I want to thank you so much! Getting mineral oil tomorrow! I LOVE LOVE all your videos!
Paul I used the mineral oil and it transformed the piece it looks FABULOUS. Trully amazing it brought out the different color woods in the piece. Now I want to leave it natural!!!!! What should I so since I used the mineral oil on it already....you were very specific in your advise previously of asking me what I wanted to do?? What should I do to leave it natural now that I put mineral oil on it.
It will be a high use piece so please what do you recommend my next steps be.
Thank you very much for taking the time to answer everyone's questions.... quite amazing
Chris