Amazing simple trick to mix all your greens from one tube green - By Sandrine Maugy
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- Опубликовано: 8 сен 2024
- Mix all your greens using a ready-made green as a base without introducing any colours that won't be already used in your painting. www,sandrinemaugy.com Instagram @sandrinemaugy Subscription site www.patreon.com/SMaugy (c)Sandrine Maugy 2020
Hello. I just found you on you tube and I loved watching this video! I look forward to watching your others. I have your botanical watercolours through the seasons book I just finished painting the daffodil. Love your book. It’s so beautiful Turned out pretty good for first try. Thank you so much for your very helpful video. You’ve made mixing greens so simple
Hi Joyce, nice to meet you :) Thank you for your kind words... I am glad you are enjoying the book and the videos 🎨🌷
Brilliant advice, so uncomplicated, thank you😊
Most welcome 😀
This is amazing.....the best video I've seen and I've seen a lot. This will now be my go-to green mixes. Thanks so much. Would love you to do it with other colours as well. Thank you again.
You're welcome Lindy :)
Incredible! such a good tip!
Well explained!
Excellent thank you 😊😊
SO helpful! Thank you
You're most welcome :)
Thank you so much! This was really helpful! I really like your work and your tutorials🥰👍
You’re welcome 😊
Excellent!
Glad you liked it :)
Amazing
This is such a good tutorial for mixing greens. When I use only a limited palette and only have primaries to mix greens it is hard to get the different greens just right for my painting. Thank you for showing us such a simple way to mix greens!
You are most welcome! :)
What a great tip! Thank you so much! 💖💖💖
Je viens d'acheter votre livre, je me régale !
Merci beaucoup, je suis contente qu'il vous plaise 🌸
Je me suis lancée et j'adore l'aquarelle botanique, encore beaucoup de mal avec les petits fruits ... merci pour vos bons conseils dans le livre, c'est très précieux !
Awesome mixing tips
WoW!
That is so Amazing!
What an Absolutely Terrific tip, thank you so much for sharing it with us!
It was almost like a cool magic trick! lol
I am really surprised by how simple and easy that was for you to mix all those greens!
I am a beginner and this is the best tip for mixing colors that I have seen!
I think your painting is so Amazing I put your book on my Amazon list and can’t wait to get it!
Thanks again for teaching us your wonderful process!
Hugs!🥰
Thank you for your kind words... Enjoy the book! :)
Best explanation on RUclips! Thank you
You're very welcome, thank you :)
Wow one of the most useful an best videos on the planet in making greens thank you 🙏
:D Your comment made my day... Still working at 21.30 on a Sunday night, so thank you, I needed that :)))
❤️❤️❤️❤️❤️
j'adore vos mini cours je suis français. Ca serait fabuleux de les avoir en français sur patreon sans passer par la traduction
Bonjour Richard :) C'est vrai mais je n'ai pas le temps de tout faire en double... J'ai un tuto en francais dans mon magasin Etsy, mais l'essai n'a pas été tres concluant. Il y a tellement plus de gens qui parlent anglais...
This was most helpful. Thank you!
You're welcome!
What great tip !!! Thank you! B
Any time!
I find this way more complicated. Not on regard of its principles ( that yellow lightens the mix, red mutes the mix and blue darkens the mix) but on regard of the practice.
I don't see the point of starting with a ready made green instead of mixing it directly with primary colours, in order to get directly and more accurately the result you want. It is not that using a ready made green makes mixing greens faster because you have to bring the ready made green to the right hue. Not to mention that you can warm a ready made cool green but you can not do the opposite. Cool a ready made warm green because you'll have to add blue to make the hue cooler and blue will darken the final mix.
I mix only with primaries starting for instance with a cool yellow and a cool blue to get a lighter or darker green depending the ratio of the first two colours and then I mute it by adding a red according to my needs. And I do the same with the warm yellow(s) and blue(s).
Hello again :) Your method works well too and I sometimes do it that way too. But some people find it easier to keep their colours clean if they start with a ready-made green. At least that way you start with a decent non-muddy green and you need just a tiny amount of primaries to modify it. Fewer chances of getting a muddy green.
The other thing is, you are thinking in terms of cool and warm colours, which I am not. I am thinking in terms of biases, which to me makes a lot more sense. For example, you mention adding blue to cool down a green, but what if you use a warm blue? It still "cools down" the green although it is a warm colour... I believe this is an obsolete system now that the bias system is around and explains everything in much simpler and logical terms.
@@AtelierSandrineMaugy Hi! Even a bias can be cool or warm depending the colours that you use on the rest of the painting. A colour or the pigments that is consistent of is not warm or cool by default but in relation with the other colours that surround it. So it is more difficult to bring an unrelated ready made green that already has a specific bias (due to the colours that consist it ) that you introduced into the painting at some point for convenience reasons, to match with the colours that surround it.
If for instance I'm painting something using Prussian blue, then by using a Hooker's green I will add to the painting a Phthalo Blue or Green ( the colours that consist the Green) that have different properties and then I will have to make it match with the rest of the colours that I've already used.
Even if I know in advance the colours that consist the ready made green that I use I'll need different ready made greens for different group of primaries. Something that makes the whole thing more complicated.
That is the reason why prefer I work with a palette selection that has four yellows, five blues, five reads a dioxazine mauve and a red iron oxide PR101 and I mix everything with these colours. This way I have 20 different combinations of blue and yellow that multiply to 100 if I use any of the reds, and in unlimited number if I use the mauve and the PR 101 to neutralize any of the yellows.
Hi :) Even in this explaining you are bringing in a warm and cool system, which I have completely removed from my colour theory. The idea that a colour is warm or cool depending on the other colours around is really confusing to a lot of people. (Especially as there is another cool and warm system in which each colour is warm/cool and never changes!) If you go with the bias theory to the exclusion of all other theories (no warm or cool in my biases) it is much easier as the biases never change. Whatever colours you use in the painting, a green will always be yellow biased or blue biased. Also, the very name of the bias gives crucial information, unlike a very subjective "warm" or "cool". Much more straightforward and easy to work with in my opinion.
Your system obviously works for you, which is great :) I'm not trying to convince anyone, just teaching the system that works for me and that I think is the most logical one.
@@AtelierSandrineMaugy No one is trying to convince anyone. We are just discussing here. And I don't doubt your colour choices or your teaching method.
I'm just finding the subject very interesting and I 'm discussing it here because you've uploaded the video explaining your method ... well here. :)
If you don't want for any reason to discuss further on these comments I have no problem. We can talk with emails too if you like or whatever.
My point to get back to the subject is that even the biases have a warm or cool ...bias.
It is not all blues and yellows and reds the same in real world. And the properties of each separate pigment are those who differentiate the theory from the practice. Some pigments simply don't match with other pigments. That is the reason why it is advisable to pre select a number colours that you know of what they are made off, what is their bias , what is their key, and restrict some how the number of colours you use on each different painting.
But I personally have the notion that pre made colours restrict further our colour choices and bring the risk to introduce some completely unrelated pigments with completely different properties and characteristics in an other wise consistent selection of colours.
Colour mixing is IMHO the 80% of the painting. It is the most tricky thing to master.
No problem, I am enjoying our conversations... But in this one it feels like we're going in a circle :) There are 2 different methods, I like both, you prefer one but ultimately the video is about using a ready-made green...
The main reasons I like this method are that beginners find it easier to handle and also that I like to stay flexible with methods: I don't have a recipe I use all the time, I feel different subjects call for different approaches...
So very helpful! I’m trying this with my paints today. You are a wonderful teacher🤗. Do you offer courses online?
Thanks Carla, I'm glad it was helpful... Yes, I do teach online, later today we're doing rose leaves, focusing on mixing green and painting foliage. Here is my website page where you can see upcoming courses: sandrinemaugy.com/courses/
Incredibly useful. Thank you. What was the name of the blue pigment you used?
Many thanks !
Btw I have your book ‘Colours of Nature’ It is so beautifully presented & extremely inspirational. I find the ‘ homemade mixes ‘ tips particularly useful.
I am surprised at the use of Viridian. If i was to buy only one bought green which should i choose - what would you recommend please?
At the moment I would say Royal Talens Rembrandt Sap Green, which has been my favourite for years, after I tested dozens of greens for my first book. But I am about to test a whole new box of greens (for my second book) so my answer might change soon. In any case the Rembrandt one will still be a great "base" green.
I also am surprised at the use of Viridian :D I had been rather dismissive of it for years. I rediscovered it and I was surprised at the beautiful mixes it produces. It goes to show... we should always keep an open mind... :) (Although I do have my limits: my pigments have to be lightfast, environmentally friendly and cruelty-free...)
@@AtelierSandrineMaugy I agree about the pigments. I will try Viridian as i have it. I use W/N and Daler Rowney, not tried any other makes.
@@AtelierSandrineMaugy I have your book and will be interested in your second book too. Didn't know you were on You Tube but have now subscribed. I look forward to more videos too.
For Viridian, the brand doesn't matter that much, as Viridian is a pigment (as opposed to a colour) and it is not particularly costly, so all brands use the same. As long as the brand is an artist brand and doesn't use fillers, it should be ok.
The same works for brown. One tube brown plus your primaries gives you every brown you need. Using the colors already in your work makes them all harmonious. Of course you could mix the brown (or green) but it's a lot faster to have a base to start with. Using a limited palette is one of the most beneficial things you can do to create beautiful paintings that are so much easier to accomplish. I shudder every time I see those large palettes full of pre-mixed colors bought by beginners.. you are just making it so much harder. You need to learn to mix, because its going to mix regardless on the paper.
Hello, I agree with you about limiting the number of colours per painting, but I can't agree with a limited paintbox :D When I wrote my first book "Colours of Nature", I tested more than 150 paints and I discovered the wonderful world of pigments. I now have more than 40 paints in my paintbox and it is SO fun to play with them all. None of them are mixed, they are all pure pigments, and I only use only 4 or 5 for each painting, but I have this massive selection to chose from every time I start a painting and I love it :))
@@AtelierSandrineMaugy Yes but you are a professional who understands pigments and mixing, know how to select colors for your collection, and know to pull out a selection of 4-5 paints that work together to use in any particular work. Beginners do not. They get a 12-48 tube/pan set.. most of which are mixes..many of which are opaque.. and try to use them all in a single painting, then wonder why colors clash and they have a muddy mess. A nice split primary and a single green and brown will take away all that confusion and struggle when starting out. Out of everything on the market I know of only three premade sets that are single pigment transparent split primaries, and only three that are single pigment palettes (and two of those contain a mixed grey, all of them contain some opaques)... all are high end brands and three of the six are artist selected sets.