3D Filament From PET Bottle + Controller PCB
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- Опубликовано: 2 июл 2024
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🔥How to make filament out of PET bottles with an Arduino based machine that is using a 3D printer heating block and a stepper motor to give the round shape to some PET plastic strips, Check the PCB, code and 3D files on my website.
🔀LINKS
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Tutorial Website: electronoobs.com/eng_arduino_...
Ondřej Šraitr Video: • Filament from bottle f...
mr3dp Video: • #3 Extruder and nozzle...
JRT3D Video: • The Recreator 3D - MK5...
My tools: electronoobs.com/eng_afiliate...
False/True T-Shirt: teespring.com/it-s-funny-beca...
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00:00 Intro
01:08 What we need
03:00 The PCB
04:00 Assemble the board
05:54 The heating nozzle
07:58 Assemble PCB
09:14 Code Tests
11:33 Cut the bottle
12:58 First filament extrude
15:33 Thank you
Like share and subscribe to motivate me. Thank you
#3dprinting
#Arduino
#filament 
Наука
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Hello my friend. First of all, thanks for the project. very successful. We implemented your project. I have 2 questions. 1- is button 2 defined in the software? we couldn't find it. What is the mission? 2- is the software for the roter or for the potentiometer? A1(analog1) is defined in the software. but it has been used. how do i use it. please help me. Thanks in advance.
Hello my friend. First of all, thanks for the project. very successful. We implemented your project. I have 2 questions. 1- is button 2 defined in the software? we couldn't find it. What is the mission? 2- is the software for the roter or for the potentiometer? A1(analog1) is defined in the software. but it has been used. how do i use it. please help me. Thanks in advance.
Hi !!!! This is a very good video for this project.Can u plz modify the code which also shows the time duration on 2004 lcd along with all other code running perfectly fine.???? Plz make and Put the new code in the description.Thanks..❤
@@legocum2248 same question
good day whats the value of your thermistor?? thank you
After going thru similar adventure I can recommend few things, first is 1.6mm MIG nozzle, works far better than any diy nozzle i did and requires no drilling at all. Second, you can automatically cut the bottles while spooling, it saves tremendous amount of time, no need to pre-cut entire bottle, just make bearing cutter. Blade cutters are terrible. I have couple of vids on my channel with my machine. You have issues with 200 deg because your nozzle has not enough hot zone length, this is why imo its bad choice. Mig nozzle is very long and has very long hot zone.
Thanks for all these good tips :)
Awesome idea using the MIG or FCAW welder gun tips. What do you think is the best way to sharpen the bearings to make the cutting edges? Thanks for sharing, will check out your videos next. Any thoughts on best ways to join the strips or filaments to make longer lengths?
I envisioned using like a current clamp somewhat design where instead of laminated current conductor material, using heating elements like in a pair of pliers or vise grips, so that one can easily clamp and apply some force to make a uniform diameter butt weld... even if each end might require angled cuts to better overlap and join. Seems would be easier to remove and keep a flow going that way.
@@jafinch78 Best way to sharpen bearings is using lathe. Second best is angle grinder/microdrill with grinder disc. Best way to join strips is to not join them at all and put filament sensor close to printhead and manually change filament. Welding filament is much more effort than just refilling it. Every single filament welding takes at least couple of minutes and its just ultra tedious. I explained everything you asked in my vids.
@@KaminarisTech Just started watching your series of videos. On video #2 now. Thanks for the insight and sharing! Kind Regards, In Christ.
Thanks so much!
Brilliant project I just happened upon, I am just going to start ordering all the parts. As a Diabetic I drink over 2 litres of water every day so have an endless supply of clear bottles, many thanks for all the effort you put in to create this project. All the best Stuart
Andrei, this was yet another very enjoyable video. I 3D print to mostly support my electronics projects (enclosures and the like). I love the recycling aspect of this and the electronics were neat to see. Thank you for taking the time to create this project and share it with us. I can see it would have taken you a lot of effort to create this. It is appreciated!
This is a great solution to recycling plastic bottles. My misses must get through 8 2lt bottles of water every month and I've been thinking about how I could turn that to my advantage, when it comes to 3D printing, I've seen many videos pop up on here on the subject, but never watched any until now. What an ingenious solution to the problem. Gotta give it a try.
after printing, heat the 3D printed part for few seconds just a little less than melting point. It will smoothen the layers and overall appearance.
Thanks for the tip :)))))))
I'd never heard of that. How do you avoid melting the plastic but still manage to get it soft enough to become smooth?
@@angelorondini5835 a heat gun might work since the hot air would only be heating the outer wall of the print and shouldn't affect the infill too much so it should hold it's shape during the process, but I haven't tried this so I could be wrong and it could just end up melting the print.
In my experience that's gonna start to deform the print before smoothing layer lines any real amount because the outside has to become liquid for it to flow and by then the inside is soft enough to deform. Do you have a technique you use?
@@thirtythreeeyes8624 I usually go over it with a 3d pen or soldering iron to smooth it but a light heat gun will work splendidly.
FINALLY , you talked about this interesting topic i have been waiting for this video
Glad you made it ❤️
A very cool build! Some thoughts:
1. To quickly cool down the filament, you can pass it through a 2mm brass tube that goes through a water tank.
2. To automatically set the winding motor speed--and, therefore, the filament thickness--I would have the filament exit the brass tube and travel between two bearings, with the top one mounted to a long, sprung arm (to act as a multiplying lever) that has a magnet on the end affecting a Hall Effect sensor, which reflects the distance between the bearings. The Arduino can then set the motor speed by the signal sent by the sensor. A series of shims placed between the bearings can be used to train the Arduino.
3. A 'spot welder' would be useful for joining strips. It wouldn't need to be anything more complicated than a couple of heaters with split PTFE tubing wrapped over their ends--to prevent sticking.
4. A 'rope making machine' (like this one: ruclips.net/video/25mmaiZ_gGk/видео.html ) would allow turning very thin strips of PET into strong cords. A nozzle drilled out to the desired cord diameter would smoothen the surface. As well, such cords can be made of different colours for multi-colour filament.
5. An enclosure for your printer--even just a cardboard box!--would help maintain temperature.
Cheers!
Thanks for all these good tips :)
Any examples of the joining strips or filament? I've read this is the one gap in getting more involved. I envisioned using like a current clamp somewhat design where instead of laminated material, using heating elements so that one can easily clamp and apply some force to make a uniform diameter butt weld... even if each end might require angled cuts to better overlap and join.
I've wondered about the strips joining first as a better plan so to pull more uniform already joined sections. Great thoughts! Thanks for sharing!
There might be other ways to measure the thickness of the filament, too; perhaps an IR LED and a photoresistor that the filament passes between? I'm not 100% sure of how much IR different colors of PET would block, but it might be worth an experiment.
@@oasntet The first problem with that is you would have to thoroughly test every single material you use, as that is testing density and opacity rather than diameter. As it is the *mechanical* nature of the filament that needs to be within spec, I think that mechanical testing is best.
Just placed an order for your PCB ma dude! Can't wait to get it going when they arrive. Thanks dude!
very interesting project, I've been watching pulltrusion peojects for a while and your documentation of how you built yours is by far the best
This is such a cool environmentally friendly idea
The whole concept sounds genius . Great project. Worth trying
Excellent video and another great project! 👍
Awesome. I’ve been getting part together over the last 2 weeks to make one.
Saw Hackadays post on your project. Very impressive and filing this away for if I get into 3D printing. Props on your work!
Cool I love how you experts are sharing 🎉
This is awsome!! I don´t have a 3d printer yet, but I´m saving a bit for the elegoo neptune 3 pro rn. I´ll definetely try to build this filament maker so thanks for sharing this tutorial! This made my day!!
Thats awesome!! I have been watching those videos of making filament out of pet bottles but you made it 🎉
it doesn't work i put it up
This is really great fun!
Good video thanks for that!
Greetings from the Netherlands! Rob
very cool project. Thanks for sharing
I have ordered all the parts from AliExpress and Pcbway. I am going to start a video today of me assembling your invention. I printed all the parts int PETG. I left your name on the spool holder parts. Thank you in advance for all the work you put into this I would have never figured all this out on my own. I am a little intimidated by building the board.
Unbelievable skills. Thank you so much for sharing.
Your abilities are amazing.
Great video thank you for sharing ,keeping heat & speed controlled to give stable filment diameter is not easy job Good Build 👍
For a long time I have been printing only with home-made filament from bottles))
Thanks for the electronic diagram and sketch!! I will definitely collect and apply in my machine!
You need to print at a slow speed - 20mm / s
then the plastic will have time to melt. And the printing temperature is 270 degrees..
PET can be printed at extremely high speeds, but 270 is really borderline temperature. I run 320 for low speeds and 350 for 25-28 mm³/s.
thanks ,very nice project
Круто конечно! 👍 хорошие знания!
Lol those smooth bottles look funny :D
Uouuu very useful to recycle plastic bottles 🔥🔥
I remeber a friend of mine was wanting to be able to use plastic bottles for 3D printing. I think this is a good idea for that.
Muito bom esse projeto, espero que você faça também um de uma extrusora para fazer filamentos de outros tipos como ABS e outros.
Really nice and helpful... Thanks!
About the bottle reshaping process, I would say that some bottles don't really nead it :
bottles like coke, Canada dry, orangina and sheppes (here in France), and also lemonade and specifically not general branded coke use standard smooth bottles, usable straight away.
Also carbonated drinks bottles tend to be generaly thicker, giving more plastic per recycled bottle.
Lastly I would like to share a little idea of mine to increase the produced filament length : instead of making thick 6-8mm strips, make really thinner ones like 1 or 2 mm wide, if you divide by 4 the width, you multiply by 4 the length, and then use several (6 or 9, a multiple of 3) and tighten them into a rope with something like The King of Random's rope making machine, one of the advantages would be that with a thinner strip, you are less depending on the bottle straightness, still of it's smoothness though, and you can mix colors by combining different colors ribbons into the initial cord.
PS video tape (VHS, namely cassetes in French) are made of PET with a magnetic coating, with them you can make some magnetic filament, I saw that on a Russian channel,
Excellent Project.
Very cool project, i will try one day!
awesome brother, thank you so much
Nice! Thanks!
Thank you. Very nice video.
Nice video. Thank you for all information. I would like to add that the artillery sidewinder x1 has difficulties printing above 255° because the main gears becomes hot and the filament stuck into it. So, I have added a fan on the top of the extruder giving airflow on the filament gears, that gives no more issues on this part and I can print perfectly at 265°.
c'est tres bien fait , merci.
Dude, this is brilliant. Eres un pingu. Dude, perfect this method and sell them.
Very good sharing. Thank you so much
Well done 🎉
Good one my friend
Great idea!
Very good idea!
Thank you very much 🙏❤
Great job 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻🤩
Loved this project. I think i will make it when I get a chance. It would be amazing if you could teach how to extrude filament from pellets..
Thanks for the video
Oh Cool! I almost want to make one.
Good job my frind ✅✅✅✅✅✅✅✅
Very cool!
I love it!
Awesome!
you are clever and creative
That project is on another level. I want to see someone make a mini filament maker that combines used filament with clear pla beads. Eventually we'll be able to make any polymer for printing at home I suspect.
flawed project, motei and when running arduino code is with flaws
@@antoniopadua8699 are you the savior that is going to bring home filament making economically viable. Saying bad arduino code is like comparing the Unreal Engine 5 code base to a procedurally generated pong clone I made in pygame.
Great ingenuity !
does not work mounted
Por cierto una recomendación, seca lo más posible los filamentos, la humedad hace mucho daño a la impresión, aún así al ser tubulares la escasa humedad que tengan se va desplazando y acumulando en el tramo de filamento que está en el barrel y en impresiones muy largas se acumula tanta que da problemas y conviene de cada 5h por ejemplo pausar y cortar ese tramo.
La otra es imprimir lento, a 20 o 25mm/s
5:02 "And then I use a drill once again and drill into my finger" :D Great video 🙂. Philipp
thank you sir
I think the missing step here is adding a filament diameter sensor with another PID controller. It's impossible to drill the nozzle at EXACTLY 1.75mm, but you can control the filament thickness if you measure the width of the filament produced at the nozzle and you close-loop the system with the stepper motor pulling speed. Heck you may even end up with one single PID regulator if you assume your controlling variables are the nozzle temperature and the nema17 angular speed.
I will give this project a shot :)
great channel
nicely done! I really like the fact that we can dream things up in our bedrooms now and it is real. Got to love the "smoothening" . Do you need to call on the Summoner to start this process... , or is the Majestic already awake?
Good job
Gr8 video and I am trying this project for sure!!! Pls drop any suggestions for add ons to this project...
شكرا لك على هذا الفيديو الممتع ❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤
Very cool
Hi, I’m trying to build this but I’m not sure which capacitors to use for the pcb board. There’s a couple variations shown but the numbers aren’t listed so I can’t tell which exactly are needed. Would love a full parts list with precise numbers please. Thank you!! Love this idea
For pulling the filament you want to be doing it at 210c. From a bunch of testing we found print settings of 0.2mm layer height, 260c nozzle, 75c bed, initial flow 130%, flow 130%, print speed 30mm/s, retraction 4.5mm, retraction speed 40mm/s, fan speed 15%. Any other questions feel free to ask
¿de que porte es la tabla que se ocupa y cuales son los diámetros de cada engranaje ocupados?🤔
Would you have any recommendations on how wide we should make the strips ? (e.g when using thin, 0.15mm thick, 2L water bottles, or when using thicker Coke bottles (0.3mm thick) I have heard anything from 8mm to 1,5cm
thanks,
ChrisV
Super
Fantástico proyecto.
Estaría genial que hicieras un video de esta extrusora de filamento en tu otro canal, seguramente no soy el único al que le interesa este tema y que tiene problemas con el inglés.
En cualquier modo muchas gracias por tu tiempo y por compartir tus conocimientos con nosotros.
Un saludo!!!
nao funciona montei e e uma negação
Fantástico proyecto. Espero que no lo dejes aquí, y puedas incluir mejoras como un sensor de final de filamento y un buzzer, también algún tipo de control para el diámetro si fuera posible.
Por otro lado también sería fantástico poder comprar los componentes en kit desde tu web.
projeto nao funciona montei e foi so decepção
Very interesting and pioneering. From a practical aspect (cost) best not to use bottles with a deposit. Where I live there is a 0.25 ct deposit on most plastic bottles. Normally a 330m rol PET will cost me 20-25 euro. If a bottle returns 2 meter that would be 41.25 euro.
Genial el Proyecto! No usas ningún amplificador o algo más para la señal de la sonda Termica? Directamente te produce una señal que puedes leer con el Microcontrolador? Creí que estas era de orden de los mili voltios.. Saludos! ⚙️
Great job, thank you for sharing your successful experiment with us. Just could you please estimate (roughly) how much does this project cost ?
Wow! what an amazing project! By the way bro, are there any problems that u encounter during the 3dPrinting? i mean, problems that probably occur from the filament, not the 3d printer machine
Can you please post a complete parts list of all the elements for the project especially the electrical parts? The parts details you gave don’t quite cover everything.
Excelente. Espero que lo hagas tambien para tu canal en español
hello and thank you for your video and especially the design which is very creative. my question is: would it be possible to have the 3d files, even in STEP format if possible?
I was watching someone using a similar machine at MRRF this year. His version cut the PET bottle and fed it directly to the heater block.
I would like to know the cutting distance between the plastic blade of the bottle. To eventually have a perfect circumference for a standar filament.
Thank you so much for your video. But help me to get list of tools and equipment for make this machine. I want to make a research about optimization PET from this machine to the future .
I'm building one too right now
cool
I think u can make smth that measure the size of the filament and with pid u can adjust temp and motor speed
Great project congratulations .. one question the temperature selected to turn to filament (200 degrees) is in celcious or fahrenheit? thanks
Any thoughts on butting or joining the individual bottles fillament's into one longer length, whether possibly when pulltruding through the nozzle or afterwards once formed into the filament? Many times I've read in comments that this is a limiting factor in getting more people involved in using more since they can't as easily make larger prints from the bottles.
That's great you shared the links to the videos and the JRT3D's especially as well as that's what I've been following other than prior the videos by f2knpw, mr3dp and HULKGQ Nissan Patrol. CNC Kitchen did a good video on "How Strong is PET Bottle Filament?"
I've been saving all my PET water bottles with plans to make filament and also make protective covers like the YT channel "Brother" did sort of when he made a form to heat gun shrink and make longer PET beams. Seems like would be an interesting Pergola like design and my first project I'm thinking about is restoring a cheaper metal one by wrapping the roof rafters so to waterproof and re-enforce. Thanks for sharing as always and great work!
Here is discussed how to connect the straps together before they go through the nozzle. The nozzle basically welds them together ruclips.net/video/xNtrQQ42WG4/видео.html. He also recommends to only connect the same bottletypes
Would it be possible to use the heating tip from a hot glue gun for making the filament? Adjusting for hole diameter of course.
Для удержания температуры нужно изолировать нагревательный элемент от обдува вентиляторов, а так же уменьшить откат к минимуму, и конечно уменьшить скорость печати - иначе будет забиваться сопло.
Hello, I wanted to congratulate you on the very good project. I wanted to see if you could give me a list of the components for the PCB since I don't understand much about electronics. From already thank you very much.
Couldn't you have designed and printed an instrument housing for the display, the push button and the control knob? what does it look like? is it glued on with glue, like snot has flowed there?
Can you please comment here all the components you used on the pcb? Even the value of the mosfet and what is the programming language you use for the temperature monitor and stepper motor? Thank you so much
hi, thank you so much for this project, i am trying to build one and have soldered a board - how has everyone else been fairing with the arduino code?
I got questions for seebeck effect the video u post 1 year before!
So thermocouple have two emf ( thermal emf and contact emf, if two emf also two current flow? First current flow from hot to cold and then positive to negative?
The 3D design is beautiful. Which tool do you use to make it?
❤️❤️❤️
Podrías hacer en una versión siguiente como unos raíles para el motor NEMA 17 para cuando se vaya a retirar el filamento. No era mejor utilizar una esp32 que un Arduino nano
Is there an updated version of the code availalbe?
One that includes the rotary encoder?
I guess we can add it ourselves.... may require some research and/or copy/paste from other projects
Hi, sorry for the additional question, but do you have any tips for soldering onto A1, 5V and VCC of the arduino nano? It looks to be a difficult soldering process, I am worried about screwing up the whole setup.