Hello my friend. First of all, thanks for the project. very successful. We implemented your project. I have 2 questions. 1- is button 2 defined in the software? we couldn't find it. What is the mission? 2- is the software for the roter or for the potentiometer? A1(analog1) is defined in the software. but it has been used. how do i use it. please help me. Thanks in advance.
Hello my friend. First of all, thanks for the project. very successful. We implemented your project. I have 2 questions. 1- is button 2 defined in the software? we couldn't find it. What is the mission? 2- is the software for the roter or for the potentiometer? A1(analog1) is defined in the software. but it has been used. how do i use it. please help me. Thanks in advance.
Hi !!!! This is a very good video for this project.Can u plz modify the code which also shows the time duration on 2004 lcd along with all other code running perfectly fine.???? Plz make and Put the new code in the description.Thanks..❤
Brilliant project I just happened upon, I am just going to start ordering all the parts. As a Diabetic I drink over 2 litres of water every day so have an endless supply of clear bottles, many thanks for all the effort you put in to create this project. All the best Stuart
After going thru similar adventure I can recommend few things, first is 1.6mm MIG nozzle, works far better than any diy nozzle i did and requires no drilling at all. Second, you can automatically cut the bottles while spooling, it saves tremendous amount of time, no need to pre-cut entire bottle, just make bearing cutter. Blade cutters are terrible. I have couple of vids on my channel with my machine. You have issues with 200 deg because your nozzle has not enough hot zone length, this is why imo its bad choice. Mig nozzle is very long and has very long hot zone.
Awesome idea using the MIG or FCAW welder gun tips. What do you think is the best way to sharpen the bearings to make the cutting edges? Thanks for sharing, will check out your videos next. Any thoughts on best ways to join the strips or filaments to make longer lengths? I envisioned using like a current clamp somewhat design where instead of laminated current conductor material, using heating elements like in a pair of pliers or vise grips, so that one can easily clamp and apply some force to make a uniform diameter butt weld... even if each end might require angled cuts to better overlap and join. Seems would be easier to remove and keep a flow going that way.
@@jafinch78 Best way to sharpen bearings is using lathe. Second best is angle grinder/microdrill with grinder disc. Best way to join strips is to not join them at all and put filament sensor close to printhead and manually change filament. Welding filament is much more effort than just refilling it. Every single filament welding takes at least couple of minutes and its just ultra tedious. I explained everything you asked in my vids.
A very cool build! Some thoughts: 1. To quickly cool down the filament, you can pass it through a 2mm brass tube that goes through a water tank. 2. To automatically set the winding motor speed--and, therefore, the filament thickness--I would have the filament exit the brass tube and travel between two bearings, with the top one mounted to a long, sprung arm (to act as a multiplying lever) that has a magnet on the end affecting a Hall Effect sensor, which reflects the distance between the bearings. The Arduino can then set the motor speed by the signal sent by the sensor. A series of shims placed between the bearings can be used to train the Arduino. 3. A 'spot welder' would be useful for joining strips. It wouldn't need to be anything more complicated than a couple of heaters with split PTFE tubing wrapped over their ends--to prevent sticking. 4. A 'rope making machine' (like this one: ruclips.net/video/25mmaiZ_gGk/видео.html ) would allow turning very thin strips of PET into strong cords. A nozzle drilled out to the desired cord diameter would smoothen the surface. As well, such cords can be made of different colours for multi-colour filament. 5. An enclosure for your printer--even just a cardboard box!--would help maintain temperature. Cheers!
Any examples of the joining strips or filament? I've read this is the one gap in getting more involved. I envisioned using like a current clamp somewhat design where instead of laminated material, using heating elements so that one can easily clamp and apply some force to make a uniform diameter butt weld... even if each end might require angled cuts to better overlap and join. I've wondered about the strips joining first as a better plan so to pull more uniform already joined sections. Great thoughts! Thanks for sharing!
There might be other ways to measure the thickness of the filament, too; perhaps an IR LED and a photoresistor that the filament passes between? I'm not 100% sure of how much IR different colors of PET would block, but it might be worth an experiment.
@@oasntet The first problem with that is you would have to thoroughly test every single material you use, as that is testing density and opacity rather than diameter. As it is the *mechanical* nature of the filament that needs to be within spec, I think that mechanical testing is best.
@@angelorondini5835 a heat gun might work since the hot air would only be heating the outer wall of the print and shouldn't affect the infill too much so it should hold it's shape during the process, but I haven't tried this so I could be wrong and it could just end up melting the print.
In my experience that's gonna start to deform the print before smoothing layer lines any real amount because the outside has to become liquid for it to flow and by then the inside is soft enough to deform. Do you have a technique you use?
This is a great solution to recycling plastic bottles. My misses must get through 8 2lt bottles of water every month and I've been thinking about how I could turn that to my advantage, when it comes to 3D printing, I've seen many videos pop up on here on the subject, but never watched any until now. What an ingenious solution to the problem. Gotta give it a try.
For a long time I have been printing only with home-made filament from bottles)) Thanks for the electronic diagram and sketch!! I will definitely collect and apply in my machine! You need to print at a slow speed - 20mm / s then the plastic will have time to melt. And the printing temperature is 270 degrees..
Andrei, this was yet another very enjoyable video. I 3D print to mostly support my electronics projects (enclosures and the like). I love the recycling aspect of this and the electronics were neat to see. Thank you for taking the time to create this project and share it with us. I can see it would have taken you a lot of effort to create this. It is appreciated!
I have ordered all the parts from AliExpress and Pcbway. I am going to start a video today of me assembling your invention. I printed all the parts int PETG. I left your name on the spool holder parts. Thank you in advance for all the work you put into this I would have never figured all this out on my own. I am a little intimidated by building the board.
About the bottle reshaping process, I would say that some bottles don't really nead it : bottles like coke, Canada dry, orangina and sheppes (here in France), and also lemonade and specifically not general branded coke use standard smooth bottles, usable straight away. Also carbonated drinks bottles tend to be generaly thicker, giving more plastic per recycled bottle. Lastly I would like to share a little idea of mine to increase the produced filament length : instead of making thick 6-8mm strips, make really thinner ones like 1 or 2 mm wide, if you divide by 4 the width, you multiply by 4 the length, and then use several (6 or 9, a multiple of 3) and tighten them into a rope with something like The King of Random's rope making machine, one of the advantages would be that with a thinner strip, you are less depending on the bottle straightness, still of it's smoothness though, and you can mix colors by combining different colors ribbons into the initial cord. PS video tape (VHS, namely cassetes in French) are made of PET with a magnetic coating, with them you can make some magnetic filament, I saw that on a Russian channel,
For pulling the filament you want to be doing it at 210c. From a bunch of testing we found print settings of 0.2mm layer height, 260c nozzle, 75c bed, initial flow 130%, flow 130%, print speed 30mm/s, retraction 4.5mm, retraction speed 40mm/s, fan speed 15%. Any other questions feel free to ask
Would you have any recommendations on how wide we should make the strips ? (e.g when using thin, 0.15mm thick, 2L water bottles, or when using thicker Coke bottles (0.3mm thick) I have heard anything from 8mm to 1,5cm thanks, ChrisV
That project is on another level. I want to see someone make a mini filament maker that combines used filament with clear pla beads. Eventually we'll be able to make any polymer for printing at home I suspect.
@@antoniopadua8699 are you the savior that is going to bring home filament making economically viable. Saying bad arduino code is like comparing the Unreal Engine 5 code base to a procedurally generated pong clone I made in pygame.
Nice video. Thank you for all information. I would like to add that the artillery sidewinder x1 has difficulties printing above 255° because the main gears becomes hot and the filament stuck into it. So, I have added a fan on the top of the extruder giving airflow on the filament gears, that gives no more issues on this part and I can print perfectly at 265°.
This is awsome!! I don´t have a 3d printer yet, but I´m saving a bit for the elegoo neptune 3 pro rn. I´ll definetely try to build this filament maker so thanks for sharing this tutorial! This made my day!!
Por cierto una recomendación, seca lo más posible los filamentos, la humedad hace mucho daño a la impresión, aún así al ser tubulares la escasa humedad que tengan se va desplazando y acumulando en el tramo de filamento que está en el barrel y en impresiones muy largas se acumula tanta que da problemas y conviene de cada 5h por ejemplo pausar y cortar ese tramo. La otra es imprimir lento, a 20 o 25mm/s
nicely done! I really like the fact that we can dream things up in our bedrooms now and it is real. Got to love the "smoothening" . Do you need to call on the Summoner to start this process... , or is the Majestic already awake?
Montei acabei de ligar mas o driver fica a aquecer bastante e o motor não mexe. Apenas um botão funciona, o bloco aquece e lê a temperatura. Mas não vejo opçao para a fan. O código ewtará incompleto?
Hello electronoobs. Why do you show a schematic diagram uses a rotary encoder and 3 pushbuttons and have the arduino sketch to donlod wich works with one potentiometer and only one pushbutton? Also your downloadable gerber files only works with rotary encoder and 3 pushbuttons. How looks the real schematics corresponding to your arduino sketch? I am confused. Please have an answer for me. Regards Paul from Switzerland
i have te same questions. I have ordered the pcb, the parts, the arduino..all the stuf and now i realize , that there is an encoder, 3 buttons and ( this is good) 3 jumpers . that if you look in the video the guy is changing the posiotion of the jumper from 2 to 1, and does not say nothing abbout that. i guess that is his little secret. if you want to know abbout it you need to pay, probably. #Electronoobs can you help the comunity? we like the ideea and apreciate the effort but there are the things that we mention abbove that leaves us in the dust. on your site you do not say nothing abbout the points.
Ele muda os jumpers para mudar os micropassos do driver. Dependendo da configuraçao dos jumpers o motor também fica mais rápido ou mais lento e com mais ou com menos torque
Buenas! Una pregunta...qué temperatura óptima has encontrado al final con el PET para imprimir? Podrías pasar la config aprox de los parámetros necesarios? Mil gracias y enhorabuena por el proyecto.
I have a question, wouldn't one be able to build this easier using a 3D printer motherboard and screen as opposed to a custom PCB? Connect the hot end, screen, stepper motor and psu to the board as normal, and then you have full control over temperatures, and motor speeds. Sure you'd have a lot of pointless options in the screen that for obvious reasons would never work, unless you reflashed the board to take them away but, in general, wouldn't this be an easier way to do it if someone happened to have a spare board?
Thats what im goint to do. I have all the electronics laying around from a old printer. Use those and the 3d printed parts on here. Dont see why it wont work.
@@thomasskinner81 it's what I'll do as well, after a lot of research I've seen some people commonly use the old ender 3 board, because that's usually one of the main upgrades one makes to the ender 3. I myself have a spare so, might as well put it to use as something useful
Couldn't you have designed and printed an instrument housing for the display, the push button and the control knob? what does it look like? is it glued on with glue, like snot has flowed there?
Can you please post a complete parts list of all the elements for the project especially the electrical parts? The parts details you gave don’t quite cover everything.
Wow! what an amazing project! By the way bro, are there any problems that u encounter during the 3dPrinting? i mean, problems that probably occur from the filament, not the 3d printer machine
Very interesting and pioneering. From a practical aspect (cost) best not to use bottles with a deposit. Where I live there is a 0.25 ct deposit on most plastic bottles. Normally a 330m rol PET will cost me 20-25 euro. If a bottle returns 2 meter that would be 41.25 euro.
Hi great project. especially the temperature and stepper controller! Is the code for the rotary encoder in the firmware to set temperature as required? I can see on the pcb there is connectors for the rotary but could not find the code (In the firmware) for reading it and setting the desired temperature.
Is there an updated version of the code availalbe? One that includes the rotary encoder? I guess we can add it ourselves.... may require some research and/or copy/paste from other projects
Hi, I’m trying to build this but I’m not sure which capacitors to use for the pcb board. There’s a couple variations shown but the numbers aren’t listed so I can’t tell which exactly are needed. Would love a full parts list with precise numbers please. Thank you!! Love this idea
hello there im new to 3d printing, could you please send me a list of everything i need, and where to get it from. i like the idea but im not very good at electronics, so if you could please direct me to where i can get all the bits. thank you once again, robert
Can you please comment here all the components you used on the pcb? Even the value of the mosfet and what is the programming language you use for the temperature monitor and stepper motor? Thank you so much
hi i want to ask can i use DC motor with speed controller instead of the stepper motor? and what are the specifications of the dc motor I must buy ? thank you
Any thoughts on butting or joining the individual bottles fillament's into one longer length, whether possibly when pulltruding through the nozzle or afterwards once formed into the filament? Many times I've read in comments that this is a limiting factor in getting more people involved in using more since they can't as easily make larger prints from the bottles. That's great you shared the links to the videos and the JRT3D's especially as well as that's what I've been following other than prior the videos by f2knpw, mr3dp and HULKGQ Nissan Patrol. CNC Kitchen did a good video on "How Strong is PET Bottle Filament?" I've been saving all my PET water bottles with plans to make filament and also make protective covers like the YT channel "Brother" did sort of when he made a form to heat gun shrink and make longer PET beams. Seems like would be an interesting Pergola like design and my first project I'm thinking about is restoring a cheaper metal one by wrapping the roof rafters so to waterproof and re-enforce. Thanks for sharing as always and great work!
Here is discussed how to connect the straps together before they go through the nozzle. The nozzle basically welds them together ruclips.net/video/xNtrQQ42WG4/видео.html. He also recommends to only connect the same bottletypes
Fantástico proyecto. Espero que no lo dejes aquí, y puedas incluir mejoras como un sensor de final de filamento y un buzzer, también algún tipo de control para el diámetro si fuera posible. Por otro lado también sería fantástico poder comprar los componentes en kit desde tu web.
Fantástico proyecto. Estaría genial que hicieras un video de esta extrusora de filamento en tu otro canal, seguramente no soy el único al que le interesa este tema y que tiene problemas con el inglés. En cualquier modo muchas gracias por tu tiempo y por compartir tus conocimientos con nosotros. Un saludo!!!
Hello, I have a question. I set up a similar system at my home. I made a steel heater block and took a CNC nozzle and drilled it with a 1.7 mm drill bit. No matter what I did, I couldn't get a full round filament from the nozzle. When you make a thin strip, it becomes crooked, it does not close completely, a shapeless bar comes out. When cut thick, it does not come out of the nozzle. What should I do?
Merci, d'où Est-ce que vous avez commandé l'ardino et les pièces eloctronique, est ce que vous pouvez nous montrer comment introduire ces codes sur l'ardino ? Je suis un super novice.... Merci d'avance.
I love the creativity and recycling aspect of all of these bottle to filament videos, but I can't get past the time and additional cost associated with it since you can get cheap filament. Even ignoring the machine parts, the electricity/gas used to smooth out the bottles and then to run the machine seems like it would already push the cost of processing the same amount of filament to around the cost to buy a spool of it. I would be interested in a cost breakdown if anyone happened to do so, say by putting a meter on any equipment used in the process (harder with gas stove but could approximate that use with a gas burner maybe). I could probably see this being less of an issue if you use some of the very cheap soda bottles that tend to be basic flat round shapes already so no need to shape them. Also what are you using to get the glue off the bottles from the labels to be sure that doesn't contaminate the filament?
I got questions for seebeck effect the video u post 1 year before! So thermocouple have two emf ( thermal emf and contact emf, if two emf also two current flow? First current flow from hot to cold and then positive to negative?
By any chance do you think a raspberry pi pico could be used in lieu of the arduino? I have a spare pi pico and it would save the hassle of trying to order another part.
Hi, sorry for the additional question, but do you have any tips for soldering onto A1, 5V and VCC of the arduino nano? It looks to be a difficult soldering process, I am worried about screwing up the whole setup.
Thank you so much for your video. But help me to get list of tools and equipment for make this machine. I want to make a research about optimization PET from this machine to the future .
Hello! I have tried this and my plastic becomes a hollow tube than typical a full 'pipe' of plastic. Is it suppose to be hollow or do i need to make something smaller?
I have a few questions about this project. You mention the PCB running at 12v, but at what amperage do I set my power supply? Where do I attach the potentiometer and buttons? I am kinda new to this stuff so I apologize if these are dumb questions.
It kinda depends on your heating element, say you use a 12v heater at 40 watts you need at least 4 amp power supply. But if you use say a 70 watt heater, you'll need something in the range of 6 amps. But if you wanna be safe I suggest you use at least a 5A power supply just to be safe
looking through the BOM, when you get to the capacitors it says for a 10uf and 100uf but it doesnt give a voltage, im assuming as its a 12v supply it needs to be as close to that as possible but im a complete noobie to this so im unsure
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Sir i want to buy this machinery can you please tell me the price of this machinery i request you to please sell this to me
Hello my friend. First of all, thanks for the project. very successful. We implemented your project. I have 2 questions. 1- is button 2 defined in the software? we couldn't find it. What is the mission? 2- is the software for the roter or for the potentiometer? A1(analog1) is defined in the software. but it has been used. how do i use it. please help me. Thanks in advance.
Hello my friend. First of all, thanks for the project. very successful. We implemented your project. I have 2 questions. 1- is button 2 defined in the software? we couldn't find it. What is the mission? 2- is the software for the roter or for the potentiometer? A1(analog1) is defined in the software. but it has been used. how do i use it. please help me. Thanks in advance.
Hi !!!! This is a very good video for this project.Can u plz modify the code which also shows the time duration on 2004 lcd along with all other code running perfectly fine.???? Plz make and Put the new code in the description.Thanks..❤
@@legocum2248 same question
Brilliant project I just happened upon, I am just going to start ordering all the parts. As a Diabetic I drink over 2 litres of water every day so have an endless supply of clear bottles, many thanks for all the effort you put in to create this project. All the best Stuart
After going thru similar adventure I can recommend few things, first is 1.6mm MIG nozzle, works far better than any diy nozzle i did and requires no drilling at all. Second, you can automatically cut the bottles while spooling, it saves tremendous amount of time, no need to pre-cut entire bottle, just make bearing cutter. Blade cutters are terrible. I have couple of vids on my channel with my machine. You have issues with 200 deg because your nozzle has not enough hot zone length, this is why imo its bad choice. Mig nozzle is very long and has very long hot zone.
Thanks for all these good tips :)
Awesome idea using the MIG or FCAW welder gun tips. What do you think is the best way to sharpen the bearings to make the cutting edges? Thanks for sharing, will check out your videos next. Any thoughts on best ways to join the strips or filaments to make longer lengths?
I envisioned using like a current clamp somewhat design where instead of laminated current conductor material, using heating elements like in a pair of pliers or vise grips, so that one can easily clamp and apply some force to make a uniform diameter butt weld... even if each end might require angled cuts to better overlap and join. Seems would be easier to remove and keep a flow going that way.
@@jafinch78 Best way to sharpen bearings is using lathe. Second best is angle grinder/microdrill with grinder disc. Best way to join strips is to not join them at all and put filament sensor close to printhead and manually change filament. Welding filament is much more effort than just refilling it. Every single filament welding takes at least couple of minutes and its just ultra tedious. I explained everything you asked in my vids.
@@KaminarisTech Just started watching your series of videos. On video #2 now. Thanks for the insight and sharing! Kind Regards, In Christ.
Thanks so much!
A very cool build! Some thoughts:
1. To quickly cool down the filament, you can pass it through a 2mm brass tube that goes through a water tank.
2. To automatically set the winding motor speed--and, therefore, the filament thickness--I would have the filament exit the brass tube and travel between two bearings, with the top one mounted to a long, sprung arm (to act as a multiplying lever) that has a magnet on the end affecting a Hall Effect sensor, which reflects the distance between the bearings. The Arduino can then set the motor speed by the signal sent by the sensor. A series of shims placed between the bearings can be used to train the Arduino.
3. A 'spot welder' would be useful for joining strips. It wouldn't need to be anything more complicated than a couple of heaters with split PTFE tubing wrapped over their ends--to prevent sticking.
4. A 'rope making machine' (like this one: ruclips.net/video/25mmaiZ_gGk/видео.html ) would allow turning very thin strips of PET into strong cords. A nozzle drilled out to the desired cord diameter would smoothen the surface. As well, such cords can be made of different colours for multi-colour filament.
5. An enclosure for your printer--even just a cardboard box!--would help maintain temperature.
Cheers!
Thanks for all these good tips :)
Any examples of the joining strips or filament? I've read this is the one gap in getting more involved. I envisioned using like a current clamp somewhat design where instead of laminated material, using heating elements so that one can easily clamp and apply some force to make a uniform diameter butt weld... even if each end might require angled cuts to better overlap and join.
I've wondered about the strips joining first as a better plan so to pull more uniform already joined sections. Great thoughts! Thanks for sharing!
There might be other ways to measure the thickness of the filament, too; perhaps an IR LED and a photoresistor that the filament passes between? I'm not 100% sure of how much IR different colors of PET would block, but it might be worth an experiment.
@@oasntet The first problem with that is you would have to thoroughly test every single material you use, as that is testing density and opacity rather than diameter. As it is the *mechanical* nature of the filament that needs to be within spec, I think that mechanical testing is best.
after printing, heat the 3D printed part for few seconds just a little less than melting point. It will smoothen the layers and overall appearance.
Thanks for the tip :)))))))
I'd never heard of that. How do you avoid melting the plastic but still manage to get it soft enough to become smooth?
@@angelorondini5835 a heat gun might work since the hot air would only be heating the outer wall of the print and shouldn't affect the infill too much so it should hold it's shape during the process, but I haven't tried this so I could be wrong and it could just end up melting the print.
In my experience that's gonna start to deform the print before smoothing layer lines any real amount because the outside has to become liquid for it to flow and by then the inside is soft enough to deform. Do you have a technique you use?
@@thirtythreeeyes8624 I usually go over it with a 3d pen or soldering iron to smooth it but a light heat gun will work splendidly.
FINALLY , you talked about this interesting topic i have been waiting for this video
Glad you made it ❤️
This is a great solution to recycling plastic bottles. My misses must get through 8 2lt bottles of water every month and I've been thinking about how I could turn that to my advantage, when it comes to 3D printing, I've seen many videos pop up on here on the subject, but never watched any until now. What an ingenious solution to the problem. Gotta give it a try.
For a long time I have been printing only with home-made filament from bottles))
Thanks for the electronic diagram and sketch!! I will definitely collect and apply in my machine!
You need to print at a slow speed - 20mm / s
then the plastic will have time to melt. And the printing temperature is 270 degrees..
PET can be printed at extremely high speeds, but 270 is really borderline temperature. I run 320 for low speeds and 350 for 25-28 mm³/s.
Andrei, this was yet another very enjoyable video. I 3D print to mostly support my electronics projects (enclosures and the like). I love the recycling aspect of this and the electronics were neat to see. Thank you for taking the time to create this project and share it with us. I can see it would have taken you a lot of effort to create this. It is appreciated!
5:02 "And then I use a drill once again and drill into my finger" :D Great video 🙂. Philipp
Just placed an order for your PCB ma dude! Can't wait to get it going when they arrive. Thanks dude!
I have ordered all the parts from AliExpress and Pcbway. I am going to start a video today of me assembling your invention. I printed all the parts int PETG. I left your name on the spool holder parts. Thank you in advance for all the work you put into this I would have never figured all this out on my own. I am a little intimidated by building the board.
Great attempt please can you send me the files of the 3-D printed parts for me to also print out easy please🙏🏾
And also send me the link for the PCB GERBERs. I also ships at Ali Xpress. Please help me 🙏🏾
About the bottle reshaping process, I would say that some bottles don't really nead it :
bottles like coke, Canada dry, orangina and sheppes (here in France), and also lemonade and specifically not general branded coke use standard smooth bottles, usable straight away.
Also carbonated drinks bottles tend to be generaly thicker, giving more plastic per recycled bottle.
Lastly I would like to share a little idea of mine to increase the produced filament length : instead of making thick 6-8mm strips, make really thinner ones like 1 or 2 mm wide, if you divide by 4 the width, you multiply by 4 the length, and then use several (6 or 9, a multiple of 3) and tighten them into a rope with something like The King of Random's rope making machine, one of the advantages would be that with a thinner strip, you are less depending on the bottle straightness, still of it's smoothness though, and you can mix colors by combining different colors ribbons into the initial cord.
PS video tape (VHS, namely cassetes in French) are made of PET with a magnetic coating, with them you can make some magnetic filament, I saw that on a Russian channel,
This is such a cool environmentally friendly idea
very interesting project, I've been watching pulltrusion peojects for a while and your documentation of how you built yours is by far the best
For pulling the filament you want to be doing it at 210c. From a bunch of testing we found print settings of 0.2mm layer height, 260c nozzle, 75c bed, initial flow 130%, flow 130%, print speed 30mm/s, retraction 4.5mm, retraction speed 40mm/s, fan speed 15%. Any other questions feel free to ask
¿de que porte es la tabla que se ocupa y cuales son los diámetros de cada engranaje ocupados?🤔
Would you have any recommendations on how wide we should make the strips ? (e.g when using thin, 0.15mm thick, 2L water bottles, or when using thicker Coke bottles (0.3mm thick) I have heard anything from 8mm to 1,5cm
thanks,
ChrisV
Круто конечно! 👍 хорошие знания!
That project is on another level. I want to see someone make a mini filament maker that combines used filament with clear pla beads. Eventually we'll be able to make any polymer for printing at home I suspect.
flawed project, motei and when running arduino code is with flaws
@@antoniopadua8699 are you the savior that is going to bring home filament making economically viable. Saying bad arduino code is like comparing the Unreal Engine 5 code base to a procedurally generated pong clone I made in pygame.
The whole concept sounds genius . Great project. Worth trying
Nice video. Thank you for all information. I would like to add that the artillery sidewinder x1 has difficulties printing above 255° because the main gears becomes hot and the filament stuck into it. So, I have added a fan on the top of the extruder giving airflow on the filament gears, that gives no more issues on this part and I can print perfectly at 265°.
Awesome. I’ve been getting part together over the last 2 weeks to make one.
Saw Hackadays post on your project. Very impressive and filing this away for if I get into 3D printing. Props on your work!
Uouuu very useful to recycle plastic bottles 🔥🔥
This is awsome!! I don´t have a 3d printer yet, but I´m saving a bit for the elegoo neptune 3 pro rn. I´ll definetely try to build this filament maker so thanks for sharing this tutorial! This made my day!!
Cool I love how you experts are sharing 🎉
Your abilities are amazing.
This is really great fun!
Good video thanks for that!
Greetings from the Netherlands! Rob
Unbelievable skills. Thank you so much for sharing.
Por cierto una recomendación, seca lo más posible los filamentos, la humedad hace mucho daño a la impresión, aún así al ser tubulares la escasa humedad que tengan se va desplazando y acumulando en el tramo de filamento que está en el barrel y en impresiones muy largas se acumula tanta que da problemas y conviene de cada 5h por ejemplo pausar y cortar ese tramo.
La otra es imprimir lento, a 20 o 25mm/s
can i ask what is the proggrame to the 3d printer
thanks
Thats awesome!! I have been watching those videos of making filament out of pet bottles but you made it 🎉
it doesn't work i put it up
nicely done! I really like the fact that we can dream things up in our bedrooms now and it is real. Got to love the "smoothening" . Do you need to call on the Summoner to start this process... , or is the Majestic already awake?
Dude, this is brilliant. Eres un pingu. Dude, perfect this method and sell them.
Good job my frind ✅✅✅✅✅✅✅✅
شكرا لك على هذا الفيديو الممتع ❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤
Very good sharing. Thank you so much
very cool project. Thanks for sharing
c'est tres bien fait , merci.
Is the air inside a homemade filament made from a bottle normal or not??????
I remeber a friend of mine was wanting to be able to use plastic bottles for 3D printing. I think this is a good idea for that.
Great video thank you for sharing ,keeping heat & speed controlled to give stable filment diameter is not easy job Good Build 👍
Excellent video and another great project! 👍
Would it be possible to use the heating tip from a hot glue gun for making the filament? Adjusting for hole diameter of course.
Montei acabei de ligar mas o driver fica a aquecer bastante e o motor não mexe. Apenas um botão funciona, o bloco aquece e lê a temperatura. Mas não vejo opçao para a fan. O código ewtará incompleto?
same problem
Lol those smooth bottles look funny :D
Hello electronoobs.
Why do you show a schematic diagram uses a rotary encoder and 3 pushbuttons and have the arduino sketch to donlod wich works with one potentiometer and only one pushbutton? Also your downloadable gerber files only works with rotary encoder and 3 pushbuttons. How looks the real schematics corresponding to your arduino sketch? I am confused. Please have an answer for me. Regards Paul from Switzerland
i have te same questions. I have ordered the pcb, the parts, the arduino..all the stuf and now i realize , that there is an encoder, 3 buttons and ( this is good) 3 jumpers . that if you look in the video the guy is changing the posiotion of the jumper from 2 to 1, and does not say nothing abbout that. i guess that is his little secret. if you want to know abbout it you need to pay, probably.
#Electronoobs can you help the comunity? we like the ideea and apreciate the effort but there are the things that we mention abbove that leaves us in the dust. on your site you do not say nothing abbout the points.
I have the same question am looking for know the secret
Ele muda os jumpers para mudar os micropassos do driver. Dependendo da configuraçao dos jumpers o motor também fica mais rápido ou mais lento e com mais ou com menos torque
Buenas! Una pregunta...qué temperatura óptima has encontrado al final con el PET para imprimir? Podrías pasar la config aprox de los parámetros necesarios? Mil gracias y enhorabuena por el proyecto.
Thank you very much 🙏❤
Muito bom esse projeto, espero que você faça também um de uma extrusora para fazer filamentos de outros tipos como ABS e outros.
I have a question, wouldn't one be able to build this easier using a 3D printer motherboard and screen as opposed to a custom PCB? Connect the hot end, screen, stepper motor and psu to the board as normal, and then you have full control over temperatures, and motor speeds. Sure you'd have a lot of pointless options in the screen that for obvious reasons would never work, unless you reflashed the board to take them away but, in general, wouldn't this be an easier way to do it if someone happened to have a spare board?
Thats what im goint to do. I have all the electronics laying around from a old printer. Use those and the 3d printed parts on here. Dont see why it wont work.
@@thomasskinner81 it's what I'll do as well, after a lot of research I've seen some people commonly use the old ender 3 board, because that's usually one of the main upgrades one makes to the ender 3. I myself have a spare so, might as well put it to use as something useful
The 3D design is beautiful. Which tool do you use to make it?
A1 was not declared in this scope; did you mean A0 error
non riesco a regolare il motore non si muove
awesome brother, thank you so much
Couldn't you have designed and printed an instrument housing for the display, the push button and the control knob? what does it look like? is it glued on with glue, like snot has flowed there?
Can you please post a complete parts list of all the elements for the project especially the electrical parts? The parts details you gave don’t quite cover everything.
Wow! what an amazing project! By the way bro, are there any problems that u encounter during the 3dPrinting? i mean, problems that probably occur from the filament, not the 3d printer machine
Great video!! But where can i get the stl for the gears and that?
Very interesting and pioneering. From a practical aspect (cost) best not to use bottles with a deposit. Where I live there is a 0.25 ct deposit on most plastic bottles. Normally a 330m rol PET will cost me 20-25 euro. If a bottle returns 2 meter that would be 41.25 euro.
thanks ,very nice project
Hi great project. especially the temperature and stepper controller! Is the code for the rotary encoder in the firmware to set temperature as required? I can see on the pcb there is connectors for the rotary but could not find the code (In the firmware) for reading it and setting the desired temperature.
does not work
Is there an updated version of the code availalbe?
One that includes the rotary encoder?
I guess we can add it ourselves.... may require some research and/or copy/paste from other projects
Very cool project, i will try one day!
Thank you, you are the best
What is the guide the stripped bottle goes through cold or the STL please
Hi, I’m trying to build this but I’m not sure which capacitors to use for the pcb board. There’s a couple variations shown but the numbers aren’t listed so I can’t tell which exactly are needed. Would love a full parts list with precise numbers please. Thank you!! Love this idea
how many millimeters should the filament be cut from the plastic bottle?
hello there im new to 3d printing, could you please send me a list of everything i need, and where to get it from. i like the idea but im not very good at electronics, so if you could please direct me to where i can get all the bits. thank you once again, robert
Can you please comment here all the components you used on the pcb? Even the value of the mosfet and what is the programming language you use for the temperature monitor and stepper motor? Thank you so much
you are clever and creative
I think u can make smth that measure the size of the filament and with pid u can adjust temp and motor speed
hi i want to ask can i use DC motor with speed controller instead of the stepper motor?
and what are the specifications of the dc motor I must buy ? thank you
Really nice and helpful... Thanks!
Any thoughts on butting or joining the individual bottles fillament's into one longer length, whether possibly when pulltruding through the nozzle or afterwards once formed into the filament? Many times I've read in comments that this is a limiting factor in getting more people involved in using more since they can't as easily make larger prints from the bottles.
That's great you shared the links to the videos and the JRT3D's especially as well as that's what I've been following other than prior the videos by f2knpw, mr3dp and HULKGQ Nissan Patrol. CNC Kitchen did a good video on "How Strong is PET Bottle Filament?"
I've been saving all my PET water bottles with plans to make filament and also make protective covers like the YT channel "Brother" did sort of when he made a form to heat gun shrink and make longer PET beams. Seems like would be an interesting Pergola like design and my first project I'm thinking about is restoring a cheaper metal one by wrapping the roof rafters so to waterproof and re-enforce. Thanks for sharing as always and great work!
Here is discussed how to connect the straps together before they go through the nozzle. The nozzle basically welds them together ruclips.net/video/xNtrQQ42WG4/видео.html. He also recommends to only connect the same bottletypes
Oh Cool! I almost want to make one.
Fantástico proyecto. Espero que no lo dejes aquí, y puedas incluir mejoras como un sensor de final de filamento y un buzzer, también algún tipo de control para el diámetro si fuera posible.
Por otro lado también sería fantástico poder comprar los componentes en kit desde tu web.
projeto nao funciona montei e foi so decepção
Thank you. Very nice video.
Hi @Electronoobs my question is what rpm is the motor rotating?
Fantástico proyecto.
Estaría genial que hicieras un video de esta extrusora de filamento en tu otro canal, seguramente no soy el único al que le interesa este tema y que tiene problemas con el inglés.
En cualquier modo muchas gracias por tu tiempo y por compartir tus conocimientos con nosotros.
Un saludo!!!
nao funciona montei e e uma negação
Great project congratulations .. one question the temperature selected to turn to filament (200 degrees) is in celcious or fahrenheit? thanks
Hi, does the filament that the machine produces have a full section?
Gr8 video and I am trying this project for sure!!! Pls drop any suggestions for add ons to this project...
hi, thank you so much for this project, i am trying to build one and have soldered a board - how has everyone else been fairing with the arduino code?
I have the heaters and glass bead thermisters used with the Creality printers, can these be used with this project?
is there a homebrew version of this pcb?
Hello, I have a question. I set up a similar system at my home. I made a steel heater block and took a CNC nozzle and drilled it with a 1.7 mm drill bit. No matter what I did, I couldn't get a full round filament from the nozzle. When you make a thin strip, it becomes crooked, it does not close completely, a shapeless bar comes out. When cut thick, it does not come out of the nozzle. What should I do?
Great job 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻🤩
Hi, I tried the bearings method to cut the bottles, but it seems there's a STL missing (the part between the two bearings). Can you please upload it?
Great job, thank you for sharing your successful experiment with us. Just could you please estimate (roughly) how much does this project cost ?
Merci, d'où Est-ce que vous avez commandé l'ardino et les pièces eloctronique, est ce que vous pouvez nous montrer comment introduire ces codes sur l'ardino ? Je suis un super novice.... Merci d'avance.
Hi, wanted to ask , do you sell maybe already made filament maker?
Loved this project. I think i will make it when I get a chance. It would be amazing if you could teach how to extrude filament from pellets..
I love the creativity and recycling aspect of all of these bottle to filament videos, but I can't get past the time and additional cost associated with it since you can get cheap filament. Even ignoring the machine parts, the electricity/gas used to smooth out the bottles and then to run the machine seems like it would already push the cost of processing the same amount of filament to around the cost to buy a spool of it. I would be interested in a cost breakdown if anyone happened to do so, say by putting a meter on any equipment used in the process (harder with gas stove but could approximate that use with a gas burner maybe). I could probably see this being less of an issue if you use some of the very cheap soda bottles that tend to be basic flat round shapes already so no need to shape them. Also what are you using to get the glue off the bottles from the labels to be sure that doesn't contaminate the filament?
Will you share the files for the gears and drum?
I got questions for seebeck effect the video u post 1 year before!
So thermocouple have two emf ( thermal emf and contact emf, if two emf also two current flow? First current flow from hot to cold and then positive to negative?
By any chance do you think a raspberry pi pico could be used in lieu of the arduino? I have a spare pi pico and it would save the hassle of trying to order another part.
Hi, sorry for the additional question, but do you have any tips for soldering onto A1, 5V and VCC of the arduino nano? It looks to be a difficult soldering process, I am worried about screwing up the whole setup.
Thank you so much for your video. But help me to get list of tools and equipment for make this machine. I want to make a research about optimization PET from this machine to the future .
Hello! I have tried this and my plastic becomes a hollow tube than typical a full 'pipe' of plastic. Is it suppose to be hollow or do i need to make something smaller?
I have a few questions about this project.
You mention the PCB running at 12v, but at what amperage do I set my power supply?
Where do I attach the potentiometer and buttons?
I am kinda new to this stuff so I apologize if these are dumb questions.
It kinda depends on your heating element, say you use a 12v heater at 40 watts you need at least 4 amp power supply. But if you use say a 70 watt heater, you'll need something in the range of 6 amps. But if you wanna be safe I suggest you use at least a 5A power supply just to be safe
@@cryo2810 Would a 12V 10A power supply be fine?
looking through the BOM, when you get to the capacitors it says for a 10uf and 100uf but it doesnt give a voltage, im assuming as its a 12v supply it needs to be as close to that as possible but im a complete noobie to this so im unsure