Hand Plane Tote With Just Hand Tools
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- Опубликовано: 13 окт 2024
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Watch How to Version here: • How to Make A Tote For...
Making a hand plane tote using only hand tools from Zebrawood. this was made mostly with saws, rasps, files, a bow sander and a brace and bit. the shaping time was about 45 minutes the whole project was under 2 hours of work. this is made to fit a Stanley 10 1/4 you can find out more about the plane here: • Why The Handle Leans Over
Tote Patterns: www.leevalley.c...
Place I found the screw: www.antique-us...
Bow sander: • How To Make a Bow Sander
Knob making video: • Making a Knob Without ...
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I did the same thing. On the second time I noticed the little line that said grain direction on the pattern. Went way more better 😂😂😂😂. Awesome.
Dude! Really appreciate how you did this... shows us “schmucks” that even Wood By Wright has to start over sometimes. Thanks for the encouragement!
thanks Scott! I try to show the mistakes when ever I can learn form them!
James that is the most beautiful tote and knob I have ever seen!!!
thanks! I do love the wood on this one!
during the first layout I was telling myself "oh no, that may split" then "POP!"
2nd run, you were rasping end grain - you are a braver man than I am! then boom, the tote was taking shape, beautiful work as always, James!!
LOL got to love those stupid moments when you should have known better. LOL
I love those quiet and creative projects . It is going to be a beautiful hand plane !!!!!!!!!!!!!!
This looks phenomenal. I’m so glad it came out so nice. Thanks again James.
thanks man! Hope you have fun with it!
Good timing. Have a type 8, 605 Bedrock in need of a new tote and knob. Downloaded the tote pattern from Lee Valley and looking through my stash for the wood. Being lazy and old I will probably use my lathe for the knob and drill press/band saw to rough out the tote. Finishing the tote will parallel your methods. Thanks for the inspiration!!
Nice Have fun out there!
OMW, well done. You have the patience of a saint. I would have lost it at the beginning when the piece snapped. And that hole, the whole way down the length - very impressive.
very well thought out working process - drilling out the curvy spots is very smart. Pretty eye opening and encouraging to see what can be achieved with just a few simple hand tools.
Will definitely keep for reference when I will need to replace the handle of a plane. Thanks a bunch, you are great!
thanks! that means a lot. these are so much fun to make!
Pretty awesome James!
I love this. As it happens I am in the process of restoring three planes: Stanley No 4, Record No 4 1/2 and Stanley No 5. At least one of them does not have the original tote and knob and other parts. So I was thinking about making a tote and knob myself and as I do not have a lathe I will be learning from your inspiration. I'll probably use tulip as I have some in store. Coincidently I have just watched your previous videos on making a tote by hand. Interesting how your methods have changed over the years. For example you drilled the holes with the wood clamped in the vice to prevent it splitting and you neglected the centre line before rasping the shape previously but this time I did not notice the lines round the edge for the round overs. Just idle observations. It's a great video and I love the finished look.
You can rig up a fake lathe. I just used my homemade lathe to make a front knob.
so true. it si fun to see how you change little things the more you do them!
Dear James, you did a great job again. That you is plural of course. I always ask my wife to take my videos while working ongoing and non-finishable jobs, but she prefer to illustrate her great arts instead. :))))) While I was thinking to write this comment, I realized maybe I should take her video while she is painting. :)) Maybe one day. :) Thanks for doing this and taking the video of it, and of course cutting perfectly. :) Always inspiring. Love from Istanbul.
Thanks. I would love to see her painting!
@@WoodByWright Thank you for your answer. That's very kind of you. Here is her instagram account, I'm sure you'll like it. instagram.com/evrimstheory/
I'm proud of her, she has a great gift, every time she made something, that's lovely experience. Thank you again. All the best.
Wow! That really brought out the woods beauty, keep the good work James!
So pretty.
'Hand powered' work never runs out of Gas!
oh yes it does! LOL resewing for 6 hours. I got to go fill the tank! LOL
Already saw the finished plane and wow is that a good choice of wood...cheers...rr Normandy
thanks Richard. I fo like the look of it!
Hey James, I really enjoy your videos! This one was especially nice because it focused mainly on the doing and not so much on the explaining. I appreciate both, but this one was soothing most of the time. Awesome.
thanks Ben. That is what most of the videos on this channel will be in the future. most of the teaching videos are getting moved over to the second channel. as soon as the bed is done!
Love the “drying rack” 😁👍
Bravo James , I've bought a few planes that others walk away from saying "That's a shame that the tote is broken " . You can usually pick them up for next to nothing . Making a hand made tote is a bonding experience to me and I've made several . Great job on that classic . Blessings to you .
So true.
Nice wood choice. Your plane is going to look great.
thanks! and congrats on another FIRST!!!
Such beautiful work hames wat woood did u use it looks stunning
Zebra wood is a beautiful choice. You are probably right about the grain. Sleek tool like that needs horizontal lines that carry from one end to the other. Could be fun to see if you can get a knob made from stalk that match grain for grain with the tote. Now that would be perfection.
Right on. that would look sweet!
I like it very nice!
Love the zebrano tote and knob. However, isn't it more likely to splinter and break than more traditional handle woods? Beautiful for a while, either way. Nicely done. Definitely looks better than my poplar?, Oak?, Pallet-wood tote and knob I made for one of my planes.
Actualy no it si a very good wood for it. not as great as a defuse wood lime maple or rosewood, but better then oak, though oak is not really that bad for it.
@@WoodByWright great, thanks for the reply.
It does look good! nice!
So...whats the wife think about you showing off your brace like that with the wedding ring? Great job man!
Awesome, well worth the effort
Huh, is the ring on the bit to make sure you're square? Like a bob almost? That's pretty clever and it'll always be at hand.
yup. an old trick that works great!
1:19 To keep that from happening, clamp the workpiece in a handscrew clamp, applying pressure across the hole to be drilled.
that is what I normally do but forgot on this one. the later holes were further into the wood, but that one was just stupid. LOL
I take it that the ring on the bit is to see if you are drilling level. 👍👍
Yep. Got to love the good old tricks.
That is awesome
Can I ask what your wedding ban was doing in the bit when your boring your holes?
here you go. ruclips.net/video/0XQQ5lAG1rE/видео.html it is to make sure I drill a level hole
Hey James. Beautiful video. Very relaxing. After the wood failed along the grain made me wonder about the wisdom of choosing this wood for a tote. Beautiful choice, but will it last?
The template from Lee Valley is amazing. I’ve used it for making 2 totes myself.
thanks. oh yse this will be fine. the split t was my own stupidly for drilling so close to the edge.
Yes. Another video with James chewing his tongue. The world is in tune.
LOL it is amazing it is still there!
Great work. What would you recommend for grain direction if you were making one for a wooden plane without the steel rod supporting the handle? Would it be better to have the grain running up the length of the handle and do without the long flare over the thumb?
thanks! I keep it the same there! maybe a slight angle of the grain (10 degrees or so) but right about the same there.
very cool!
When I make a tote I drill the fixing hole before I get too involved shaping it. Square stock clamps in my milling vise better.
Explain more about the ring on the auger bit?
If the ring slides forward or backward, the brace is tilted. If it sits in place and spins, it's level. I'm guessing, but that makes the most sense. He might explain it on his second channel
And...... I just found a use for my old wedding band which lost it's lustre after the divorce........ :D
A constant reminder that your wife is more than likely livid about how much you’ve spent on tools😜
what they all said. if you want to see more here is a video on the subject. ruclips.net/video/0XQQ5lAG1rE/видео.html
I love ur videos
Absolutely gorgeous though I do have a question. Every plain I have ever seen with a wooden tote has the grain running parallel to the sole. Why is that?
James has (probably) a video about this, but:
Short answer:it works better that way
Long answer: it's because the two hooks(i guess you could call them that) that your thumb and pinky rest in are very fragile and often broken off on old planes. Having the grain direction in line with them makes them stronger, as opposed to having it run perpendicular to the sole i.e. a veritas handle, which has (to avoid breakage) smaller hooksand is less ergonomic. Not to mention that the main section of the handle doesn't need the grain to run that way, as the handle is held together by the screw that fastens it to the sole.
Have fun at the workshop!,
Your fellow 15yro that watches too much youtube...
When the grain runs at 90 degrees to the sole the tip of the horn and the toe break too easily. The strongest configuration is with the grain at 20 degrees or so but it's barely stronger than the traditional method.
@@damiencwalker That sounds counterintuitive but does explain it. Thx
it is because it is tradition! and we do not mess with tradition! lol it actually has more to do with hundreds of years of finding broken horns and toes. Most woodworkers who made these found out the hard way really quickly if they ever tried to change it.
Cast Iron planes have a screw that bounds together all wood-grains. Literally taking up all tension in its direction. Like a middle-layer in plywood.
Well that gave me the fuzzies
Do you have the ratio of linseed and beeswax to mix in the jar? Brands of both s well?
here is the video on making paste wax. it all depends on how hard you want it. ruclips.net/video/WiMw71UBj3M/видео.html
As Robin Lamond hinted, why have you chosen to have the grain of the wood in the direction tote usually break? Is it because you think the metal rod will effectively compress enough the tote to cancel the grain weakness? As seen in you video at least twice, pieces of wood broke cleanly along the grain. Still, its beautiful work, but I am wondering...
it is because it is tradition! and we do not mess with tradition! lol No really, It actually has more to do with hundreds of years of finding broken horns and toes. Most woodworkers who made these found out the hard way really quickly if they ever tried to change it. though it is counter intuitive. it is the far stronger of the two methods.
Hello, really like how it turns out!
I had asked you in the previous video but you probably didn't see it. I would like to make a handle for my hand saw, and I'm pretty new to woodworking. What set of rasp and files would I need?
Also, a local manufacturer (Glairdon Vallorbe) sells metal as well as wood files. How much different are they and how much could they be used interchangeably?
Thank you and keep on your great work 🙂
I will be making a saw handle here soon. honestly, there is little difference between metal and wood files. I use some of both.
@@WoodByWright OK, thank you. But I was more interested of knowing what rasp and file I should buy first. I have no idea how many rasps and files are needed and what budget I should expect to put in it.
I have never purchased a new one. I normally find a bucket full at antique stores and estate sales. sorry I am not a big help on that one.
@@WoodByWright Thank you. Yes, I know you're more into old tools, but where I live they are pretty hard to find. But what I ask was more about what type I should need, like "x rasps like that, w files like that, those shapes are the first you'll need, and you'll need those sizes". Do you think you can help me on that?
was the center scribe for reference/balance?
that helps you eyeball which side you are taking off more material. it just helps the eye pick out which side is still fat.
I'm going to have to do this for my two planes I just picked up from a pawn shop! What are those files with the thin metal handle you're using?
Sorry I do not know what you are referring to. do you have a time stamp?
@@WoodByWright I apologize, I was mistaken on what the file looked like. It was at 3:15
You need a spoon bit for your brace
I have a few. those are fun!
Do you use molding planes?
from time to time yes. I have a rather large collection.
What was the second bit in the brace? I just recently got started in woodworking and wondered why there are not bits larger than 1" readily available for my brace.
It's an adjustable wood bit. You can get them for a hand brace or drill press. The one I have is a Irwin that will adjust from 7/8 to 3 inch. They run about $40.
@@grimsoul0 Thank you. Found one, just didn't know what I was looking for before.
@@jordanjohnston5108 Not a problem. Glad you was able to find one without a problem. It's not something I need often but is nice to have around when you do need it.
right on! what he said! you do not see larger twin blade bits as the force it takes to plow that much wood out of the way is a lot. but with an adjustable one you are just doing one blade at a time.
The knob is oriented 90 degrees off. You should orient the quarter sawn grain where force will be applied (think baseball bat). Probably doesn't matter in this instance but you should always try to orient the edges of the rings in the direction force is applied.
I know it is counter intuitive, but the handel is actualy stronger this way and will suffer less breaks then ruining the grain vertically.
What you used for painting handle? Tell me please 🙏
The handle isn't painted. If I remember correctly, this one was finished with boiled Lindsey oil and then shellac.
@@WoodByWright thank you 👍
Hi forgive me for the stupid question, why the wedding ring on the brace and bit, again stupid question. Cheers from Tasmania👻
Not a problem. I have a video showing how you can use that for different methods but in this case it is telling me that my bit is level up and down. I can eyeball it side to side but the ring will tell me if I need to raise or lower it.
@@WoodByWright thanks makes sense. Cheers 👻
👌🏻
What's the ring for on your braces bit?
It’s an ingenious method of keeping the bit horizontal. I think it's brilliant.
To make sure he's drilling straight/square. If he isn't the ring moves to the lower side (down)
what they said. here is a video if you want to see more. ruclips.net/video/0XQQ5lAG1rE/видео.html
That's cool thx!!
a little on-the-job reminder of "do not screw up"
YES! Another dad joke!
Whats the ring on the bit do? I know its gotta be a trick showing something.
Here you go! ruclips.net/video/0XQQ5lAG1rE/видео.html keeps the drill on track.
You had a spectacular result, but just out of interest, try filing curves with the far end of the file at the far end of the curve, and progressing the stroke so the far end of the file effectively lifts. In other words, the opposite of what you were doing in this video. If you hate it, or can't get used to it, then fair enough. Also try using the full length of the file instead of tiny short strokes. When I started my toolmaking apprenticeship in 1969 the first three weeks were spent filing a one inch cube and one inch square hole from mild steel. The cube had to fit the hole rotated every way, and if the instructor was able to insert a five thou feeler gauge in any gap, you failed. If you want to see near perfect use of metal files, watch the Clickspring videos.
Yea, the lines going horizontal on the tote, and vertical on the knob look a bit weird; and such lovely handles almost seem wasted on such an ugly plane, they'd probably look better on a standard no. 4 or no. 5.
Or maybe the different lines on each piece would work better on another plane, like a large jointing plane, or a low angle smoothing plane or something.
I'm not criticising, just pondering.
Or 45 degree lines would be cool, matching the angle of the blade..
Great job, they look bloody lovely.
But you do know that wood is least stable in the direction of the grain ?
Intuitively it would appear that way, but it is actually far stronger this way. if you turn it the other way the horn and toe break off. and those are what support the hand and connect the force to the base. there is a reason that is the grain direction on all hand planes, even when they are on a wooden body with out the bolt.
😃👍🏻👊🏻
what wood is?
Zebra wood
I was just about to ask what plane that was until I heard, "Very rare and very expensive" super bummed!😭
You know "Wood by Wright 2" should be "Wood and Words by Wright"
LOL I like that!
Is the wedding ring on the bit to make sure you're parallel?
So you know it is level. ruclips.net/video/0660ESUV810/видео.htmlsi=5ewnNMiRzHxjvTaB
1:28 round 2- FIGHT, sry Mortal Kombat came out for some reason.
LOL nice!
Nice work again. Cue the conspiracy theorists who'll claim you finished the hole for the shaft off-camera on a drill press.
LOL I have another video where I drill it all from one side and the screw point comes out dead on the mark I drew. it only took me 10 shots to get right!
All the videos I see of making totes from scratch has been bothering me. I think, based on the diagram, what they want us to actually do is bore the rod hole first. Align the tote square to the rod location, bore the hole and then cut out the tote. I keep seeing, repeatedly, from everyone, cutting out the tote and then concentrating on how they are going to bore the hole. If you bore the hole first, THEN cut it out, you wont run into all the hassle and frustration. Just my thoughts.
You bore the hole first if you are using a drill press. But if not it doesn not make a difference if you do it before or after.
@@WoodByWright Yeah, that makes sense with the drill press. I was just thinking, it would be more practical even with a brace and bit to start off drilling perpendicular to the square wood, then you have a reference point to do the rest of the layout. Obviously you'd need to start with the grain in the correct direction before starting.
Cheating. Now make a WHOLE workbench using ONLY sandpaper, or it doesn't count.
I think that's kinda how we feel when you use only hand tools :)
LOL I take that challenge and rase you a chest of drawers!
WhatsApp rainfall Mayorga bit
You chewing on your tounge?
LOL yup. I have done it all my life when I start focusing on something!
Curious about the gold rings on your drills?
It lets you know that the bit is level. I have several videos on the ring trick if you want to see more detail but there's actually a good bit that goes into making the trick work just right.