I like watching you videos as a woodworker, even though right now I'm not making a tote. At some point in the future I might need to. Thanks for sharing.
I don't have access to an imperial reamer where I live so insteag I chuck the screw and the nut in a drill and ream the hole with the nut by friction. Please don't lose patience with the channel. It will grow. We, plane nuts, need conrent like this :D
I appreciate the use of wood with a personal connection. I recently carved an apple wood spoon from a piece of a tree that I played on as a child fifty odd years ago. Excellent work!
I’m going to watch this later when I’m not on the road. Paul Sellers has an excellent video as well. He doesn’t use a jig to get the hole. He starts with the hole and then aligns the bottom of the tote with the hole. I’ve been practicing making them for the last month or so, and have managed to make two serviceable ones so far. I like hard maple best so far. The only issue I have is smoothing the inside corners as I don’t have many rasps or files.
Superb video demonstrating how to make a tote for a (Stanley) hand plane. Clear concise explanations throughout accompanied by great close up shots of all the processes involved especially the profiling stages. Will definitely watch all your other posts - hopefully you will continue to provide such great content. Many thanks for sharing!!!
Beautiful! I’ve been a finish carpenter for over 50 years, just retired. I’ve used planes all my life but just recently started an interest in them. Weird, I guess they were a tool to make a living. Love your videos, I’ve been binge watching them. Lots of insight. Subbed.
That's the best instructional video I've ever seen on making a replacement tote. Great bloody job lad. I haven't looked yet but I hope you have plans available. Thanks.
I love this channel! I've got a bunch of old planes ive picked up for $1-15 dollars that need some love. Im trying to find a sand blaster to get all the japaning off if them. Cheers my friend, can't wait to see what you show us next. 👍🏼
A small bench top blaster will work, for the larger planes like a 6, 7 or 8 a larger stand alone cabinet is needed. Make sure you get a compressor that can keep up!
@@DaveCorinth Wish I understood the duty cycle and way these compressors work, I bought an underpowered unit that just about can work for a DIY shed but had I known I would have bought the model up with a belt drive and higher CFM and bigger tank.
Well, I added the variable round-over bit to my ample Lee Valley wishlist. Kind of hoping you do a knob video. Even if it is just a template and simple enough to you. The order of operations seems more accessible when I watch you doing. Maybe some nuances to learn from you.
This is great, I would love to see more! If you ever do a dovetail style saw handle video that would be really helpful. Really liked the router bit, I didn't know that there was one available. Great tips, love how you refined this build. Thanks for you time from Vancouver Island!
i always wanted to try one of these, even have all the stuff you used including that routerbit from lee valley! very nice work. as a woodturner, the knobs are easy
Making a tote is normally for yourself. If you're a master joiner . Wring wood to begin with. Stanley normally use Brazilian rosewood. I use English yew can be used for archery bows, veneers, cabinetry ,handles , furniture, carvings, musical instruments (lutes), and turned objects. Availability: English Yew is relatively uncommon. The larger size tree trunks are usually hollow.
In the early years Stanley used Brazilian, starting around the end of the SW era you start to see Cocobolo Rosewood. The type 19’s are Cocobolo Rosewood, which has a more red color. I’ve never tried Yew, but it’s on my list. I’ve used Black Walnut a lot, it’s readily available where I live.
This was an outstanding video. I once made one of these by hand using files and a lot of elbow grease and it was a lot of work and it didn’t turn out so great. The machines surely do help a lot and of course your experience and knowledge.
The first one I made years ago didn’t look so good either. But as many hand planes as I find without the furniture I set my mind to figure a way out to make these.
Thanks for the tip on the router bit ... I've been trying to find one for a long time. Any chance you could share or explain how you made these templates. I happen to agree with you 100% on the Lee Valley template ... grain orientation not is correct. I love your solution. Great work.
Did you just recently started posting videos? I just subbed. I hope you continue. Great work. I don't do woodwork because i have no money but I love watching and learning.
Great video; appreciate your work. Just wondering what you use to fill your screw holes? Have you tried hot glue or double sided tape? Or do those form too weak a bond? I imagine that bit creates a lot of stress. Thanks.
Great tutorial. The final product turned out nice. Question - can you tell me about the flat head screw driver at the end of your video? I cleaned some of my grandfather's old hand tools up and that same screw driver was part of his tool kit. I haven't found any maker mark or info on the manufacturer. Thanks again for your time.
Wonderful video! How did you make the pattern? Are there different size totes for different plane sizes? A video explaining this would be very helpful. Or you could sell the patterns!
I’m curious if I have this right - there seems to be 2 different tote handle shapes that Stanley made. The main difference is one is thicker at the end of the horn and I see this thicker shaped tote on type 19s but it’s also the shape that Lee valley uses on their layouts. You are using the other shape which in my opinion is significantly more comfortable. I’d be interested to know if i understand this correctly?
Great work.. Any chance you could share or explain how you made these templates...or post a link if you have already done so. I love your template idea.. much safer ... Great job.👍
Awesome information. You have the process nailed down, making it look way too easy. But anyone who's attempted reproducing a tote knows, it's tedious...and anything but easy. Great job! Next video...the knobknows, or a dovetail saw handle with lambs tongue detail.
Oh NO! I was hoping for a link to buy one. I had removed the plastic tote on my new #5 and mill filed the mating surface flat...should have done the same to the plastic handle also, oops.
Awesome video. I have a flock of Stanley planes that need new totes. The old ones were either busted or missing entirely. Have a few with the Stanley decal still on it, or, most of the decal, and I'd rather not have that on a user. How do you drill the little recess for a Stanley 3 or four tote?
For the No 3/4 that have a raised boss that requires a recess on the bottom of the tote, I drill that before I drill from the underside. On Stanley’s it’s usually at a right angle to the bottom of the tote, but on some others it’s at the same angle as the rod. I use a forstner bit to do this. I’m going to make a video soon on making a 3/4 tote and knob set. So keep an eye out.
Can you tell me what the Lee Valley round over router part number is and what size bearing used for for the proper round over. That is a fantastic video showing your methods for making the tote.
Lee Valley part number is “16J4010” is called a variable round over bit. They have all the specs including the bearing diameter on their website. Looks like the price is around $86.00 now.
You beautiful human being! 15/16” is the secret measurement. The two totes I have made so far were 3/4 starting out before shaping (by hand), and I was thinking they felt a little on the thin side. I just did not know where to start. I made a CNC profile for my Shaper Origin, but after seeing how fast you made that, now I wish I had a 1/2” collet router (is that bit 1/2” shank? What HP you running?), a drill press, and your jig. Thank you so much for showing your process.
First, thank you for the compliment, and second, I use a Bosch 1617 2.25hp router with a 1/2” collet. Hope this was helpful and thank you for watching.
Great video, what is the number of the Lee Valley adjustable bit? The only one I see on their website is 16J9403. They say it is for 3/4" plywood. Please advise the number on your bit.
Silly question, but are the different angles of totes just a personal preference for comfort while using the plane. or is the a functional use that I'm missing??? Thanks
I should have explained that better in the video. A type 9 and later Stanley No 5 has a 27 degree rod angle, while an early no Stanley No 5 earlier has a 29/30 degree angle. The No 3/4 totes have a 26 degree angle while Sargents have a 25 degree rod angle. So each block is basically for a different tote style. I make totes for Stanley’s, Millers Falls, Unions, and Sargents. I’ve even made a few Lie-Nielsens and Veritas totes, although those are much lower around 14-16 degrees. Hope this answers your question.
By chance, do you happen to know the threading of the rod on that Stanley rod? I have wanted to make taller handles without sinking the barrel nut an inch down inside; I would rather make new rods and thread both ends
@@eugeneleith1927 they vary. Stanley No 5’s generally have a 27 degree angle, no 3’ & 4’s have a 26 degree. Some of the early Stanley’s have a 29-30 degree rod angle. Its best if you have an tote or the plane on hand that you are going to make a new tote for to check the rod angle for that specific plane.
@@davidpeters8813Yeah, uh, the spelling "toat" came from African languages that use "tuta" for the word carry. Tote had been used by the English since the 1600's, so....
@@davidpeters8813 In the 1600's it wasn't. I don't use either of these stupid "historical" words for a handle. In my peer community I'm the only handtool woodworker, calling a part of a tool a "ladies handbag" takes far too much energy to explain to a layperson. Handle is universal even to my English Second Language peeps.
I like watching you videos as a woodworker, even though right now I'm not making a tote. At some point in the future I might need to. Thanks for sharing.
Fantastic video! I've been looking for something like this for ages. Love your drilling jig!
Glad it was helpful!
I don't have access to an imperial reamer where I live so insteag I chuck the screw and the nut in a drill and ream the hole with the nut by friction.
Please don't lose patience with the channel. It will grow. We, plane nuts, need conrent like this :D
Do you sell plans for that jig you made id love to get them ?
Great work and amazing teacher, thanks Dave, you're 'da man!
I appreciate that!
Great video. Best home made totes I've seen.
Thank you! 😊
I appreciate the use of wood with a personal connection. I recently carved an apple wood spoon from a piece of a tree that I played on as a child fifty odd years ago. Excellent work!
I’m going to watch this later when I’m not on the road. Paul Sellers has an excellent video as well. He doesn’t use a jig to get the hole. He starts with the hole and then aligns the bottom of the tote with the hole. I’ve been practicing making them for the last month or so, and have managed to make two serviceable ones so far. I like hard maple best so far. The only issue I have is smoothing the inside corners as I don’t have many rasps or files.
You could wrap a piece of sand paper around a wooden dowel.
Thank you for showing your process of tote making, it really looks stunning! 👌
I enjoy showing the process and hope others can make totes for their planes as well.
Thoroughly enjoying watching your how-to videos. Please keep them coming!
Thank you! Will do!
Thanks for the excellent tutorial, Dave. The finished tote sure looks good.
Superb video demonstrating how to make a tote for a (Stanley) hand plane. Clear concise explanations throughout accompanied by great close up shots of all the processes involved especially the profiling stages. Will definitely watch all your other posts - hopefully you will continue to provide such great content. Many thanks for sharing!!!
Thank you very much!
Beautiful! I’ve been a finish carpenter for over 50 years, just retired. I’ve used planes all my life but just recently started an interest in them. Weird, I guess they were a tool to make a living. Love your videos, I’ve been binge watching them. Lots of insight. Subbed.
A very big thank’s frome France for all your knwoledge !!!
That's the best instructional video I've ever seen on making a replacement tote. Great bloody job lad. I haven't looked yet but I hope you have plans available. Thanks.
I will, once can open a RUclips store.
@@DaveCorinthI Iook forward to that
That is so beautfiul great work and love your explanations
Thank you for watching!
I love this channel! I've got a bunch of old planes ive picked up for $1-15 dollars that need some love. Im trying to find a sand blaster to get all the japaning off if them. Cheers my friend, can't wait to see what you show us next. 👍🏼
A small bench top blaster will work, for the larger planes like a 6, 7 or 8 a larger stand alone cabinet is needed. Make sure you get a compressor that can keep up!
@@DaveCorinth awesome thanks Dave!
@@DaveCorinth Wish I understood the duty cycle and way these compressors work, I bought an underpowered unit that just about can work for a DIY shed but had I known I would have bought the model up with a belt drive and higher CFM and bigger tank.
Well, I added the variable round-over bit to my ample Lee Valley wishlist. Kind of hoping you do a knob video. Even if it is just a template and simple enough to you. The order of operations seems more accessible when I watch you doing. Maybe some nuances to learn from you.
Clever process. 👏
Thanks for sharing your process. Very insightful!
Excellent work. Beautifully paced and demonstrated. Have you ever thought about using Tung oil? Lovely warm finish. Best wishes from Australia 🇦🇺
I have and have used it on occasion, and love tung oil on mahogany and walnut. With totes and knobs I try to use what was originally used.
A great video, David, many thanks. 👏 👏👏👍👍
This is great, I would love to see more! If you ever do a dovetail style saw handle video that would be really helpful. Really liked the router bit, I didn't know that there was one available. Great tips, love how you refined this build.
Thanks for you time from Vancouver Island!
I’ve made a few saw handles with this bit, so I’ll make a video of that soon.
Thank you!!!
Great video. I do plane restorations and built a jig similar to yours. Yours beats mine. I’ve never seen the Lee Valley router bit, what a beast.
Nice job Dave! The walnut is a great choice for the tote.
i always wanted to try one of these, even have all the stuff you used including that routerbit from lee valley! very nice work. as a woodturner, the knobs are easy
Making a tote is normally for yourself. If you're a master joiner . Wring wood to begin with. Stanley normally use Brazilian rosewood. I use English yew can be used for archery bows, veneers, cabinetry ,handles , furniture, carvings, musical instruments (lutes), and turned objects. Availability: English Yew is relatively uncommon. The larger size tree trunks are usually hollow.
In the early years Stanley used Brazilian, starting around the end of the SW era you start to see Cocobolo Rosewood. The type 19’s are Cocobolo Rosewood, which has a more red color. I’ve never tried Yew, but it’s on my list. I’ve used Black Walnut a lot, it’s readily available where I live.
Beautiful tote. That video was really helpful. I have a couple of planes that I need to make totes and knobs for.
Glad it was helpful!
I have enjoyed this series. Good luck with your channel.
I really enjoyed your video thank you for sharing your knowledge and processes.
So very helpful! Thank you!
Thank you for watching and glad it was helpful!!!
Incredible work. Thank you for your time and for the video.
Glad you enjoyed it!
Great job! 👍 Thanks for sharing!
This was an outstanding video. I once made one of these by hand using files and a lot of elbow grease and it was a lot of work and it didn’t turn out so great. The machines surely do help a lot and of course your experience and knowledge.
The first one I made years ago didn’t look so good either. But as many hand planes as I find without the furniture I set my mind to figure a way out to make these.
Thanks for the tip on the router bit ... I've been trying to find one for a long time. Any chance you could share or explain how you made these templates. I happen to agree with you 100% on the Lee Valley template ... grain orientation not is correct. I love your solution. Great work.
Video on making templates in the works…..
Incredible work. 👍👍
Fantastic work
Great video, very helpful
Did you just recently started posting videos? I just subbed. I hope you continue. Great work. I don't do woodwork because i have no money but I love watching and learning.
It’s only my second month making videos, and I am enjoying the process and the interactions with you all.
Awesome video.
Great video; appreciate your work. Just wondering what you use to fill your screw holes? Have you tried hot glue or double sided tape? Or do those form too weak a bond? I imagine that bit creates a lot of stress. Thanks.
Great tutorial.
The final product turned out nice.
Question - can you tell me about the flat head screw driver at the end of your video? I cleaned some of my grandfather's old hand tools up and that same screw driver was part of his tool kit. I haven't found any maker mark or info on the manufacturer.
Thanks again for your time.
It’s called a “perfect handle” screw driver. I don’t know who made the one I use, it was my grandfathers as well.
Wonderful video! How did you make the pattern? Are there different size totes for different plane sizes? A video explaining this would be very helpful. Or you could sell the patterns!
Video has been made will post soon.
I’m curious if I have this right - there seems to be 2 different tote handle shapes that Stanley made. The main difference is one is thicker at the end of the horn and I see this thicker shaped tote on type 19s but it’s also the shape that Lee valley uses on their layouts. You are using the other shape which in my opinion is significantly more comfortable. I’d be interested to know if i understand this correctly?
Great work.. Any chance you could share or explain how you made these templates...or post a link if you have already done so. I love your template idea.. much safer ... Great job.👍
Making a video as we speak….
Awesome information. You have the process nailed down, making it look way too easy. But anyone who's attempted reproducing a tote knows, it's tedious...and anything but easy. Great job!
Next video...the knobknows, or a dovetail saw handle with lambs tongue detail.
Oh NO! I was hoping for a link to buy one. I had removed the plastic tote on my new #5 and mill filed the mating surface flat...should have done the same to the plastic handle also, oops.
Coming soon…..
Great result.
Very nice video.
Awesome video. I have a flock of Stanley planes that need new totes. The old ones were either busted or missing entirely. Have a few with the Stanley decal still on it, or, most of the decal, and I'd rather not have that on a user. How do you drill the little recess for a Stanley 3 or four tote?
For the No 3/4 that have a raised boss that requires a recess on the bottom of the tote, I drill that before I drill from the underside. On Stanley’s it’s usually at a right angle to the bottom of the tote, but on some others it’s at the same angle as the rod. I use a forstner bit to do this. I’m going to make a video soon on making a 3/4 tote and knob set. So keep an eye out.
Can you tell me what the Lee Valley round over router part number is and what size bearing used for for the proper round over. That is a fantastic video showing your methods for making the tote.
Lee Valley part number is “16J4010” is called a variable round over bit. They have all the specs including the bearing diameter on their website. Looks like the price is around $86.00 now.
You beautiful human being! 15/16” is the secret measurement. The two totes I have made so far were 3/4 starting out before shaping (by hand), and I was thinking they felt a little on the thin side. I just did not know where to start. I made a CNC profile for my Shaper Origin, but after seeing how fast you made that, now I wish I had a 1/2” collet router (is that bit 1/2” shank? What HP you running?), a drill press, and your jig. Thank you so much for showing your process.
First, thank you for the compliment, and second, I use a Bosch 1617 2.25hp router with a 1/2” collet. Hope this was helpful and thank you for watching.
Great video, what is the number of the Lee Valley adjustable bit? The only one I see on their website is 16J9403. They say it is for 3/4" plywood. Please advise the number on your bit.
The part number is 16j4010. It allows for thickness from .79”-1.00”
Silly question, but are the different angles of totes just a personal preference for comfort while using the plane. or is the a functional use that I'm missing??? Thanks
I should have explained that better in the video. A type 9 and later Stanley No 5 has a 27 degree rod angle, while an early no Stanley No 5 earlier has a 29/30 degree angle. The No 3/4 totes have a 26 degree angle while Sargents have a 25 degree rod angle. So each block is basically for a different tote style. I make totes for Stanley’s, Millers Falls, Unions, and Sargents. I’ve even made a few Lie-Nielsens and Veritas totes, although those are much lower around 14-16 degrees. Hope this answers your question.
@DaveCorinth thanks for the wooly very interesting, love the videos. Thanks
By chance, do you happen to know the threading of the rod on that Stanley rod? I have wanted to make taller handles without sinking the barrel nut an inch down inside; I would rather make new rods and thread both ends
Stanley threaded rods are 12-20. There’s a couple of folks that offer the tap and die on eBay.
That router bit looks terrifying...
That’s why I put those handles on the templates. It would mangle some fingers!!!
Do you know the thread pitch on the tote bolts ,are they metric or standard USA? Thanks
Standard, on Stanley they are 12-20
Good day can tell me what is the angle of the hole on the tote of your of hand plane
@@eugeneleith1927 they vary. Stanley No 5’s generally have a 27 degree angle, no 3’ & 4’s have a 26 degree. Some of the early Stanley’s have a 29-30 degree rod angle. Its best if you have an tote or the plane on hand that you are going to make a new tote for to check the rod angle for that specific plane.
Mr. Corinth, do you sell your totes? If you do, is it on a website, or facebook? Thanks.
I sell them on eBay, or you can find me on Facebook under the same name and contact me directly.
Do you sell the template for your totes & tote jig?
I do not at the moment, but several people have expressed interest so I’m am working on it.
@@DaveCorinthI already bought the router bit and metal hardware for the jig
@@mitchellkirk1238 contact me through Facebook. I have the same name Dave Corinth. We’ll chat.
have a good day😄
but is it tote or toat? 😋
Hmmmmm, I had to look that one up. Apparently two ways of spelling, and in the dictionary it’s “the handle of a joiners plane”. Good one…..
@@DaveCorinth we should start the toat revolution so we can all get back to proper English! 😁
@@davidpeters8813Yeah, uh, the spelling "toat" came from African languages that use "tuta" for the word carry.
Tote had been used by the English since the 1600's, so....
@@mrfirestop415 but a "tote" is a ladies handbag 🙂
@@davidpeters8813 In the 1600's it wasn't.
I don't use either of these stupid "historical" words for a handle. In my peer community I'm the only handtool woodworker, calling a part of a tool a "ladies handbag" takes far too much energy to explain to a layperson. Handle is universal even to my English Second Language peeps.