I've made a few plane totes and what I do is drill the hole first then lay the tote pattern out to the hole. Doing it that way I don't have to worry so much about where the hole comes out. I have a fair idea of generally where the bit will exit. Then once the hole is drilled I lay the pattern out to the hole and cut it out. That takes all of the guesswork out of it.
I like the grain to run parallel with the sole of the plane, I don’t worry too much if it’s quarter sawn or flat sawn, I’ve seen plenty both ways, although I’d prefer quarter sawn. And of course sometimes you have to work with the piece of wood you have.
Slick. I like the adjustable angle blocks. I was noticing that difference between the LV template and the OG Stanley totes re: grain direction and debating what to do about that.
There's nothing saying you can't lay the pattern any way you want on a piece of wood. None of that made any sense to me. You want the grain one way then put the pattern that way. I don't see what the problem there is. It's a piece of paper. It'll lay on the wood any which way.
@@scottmassey6948 I was confused about what the presenter was going on about there. Maybe he thinks the flat has to be lined up with the edge of a board? The last time I checked wood can be cut. Correct me if I'm wrong though.
Great video. I made a jig by gluing some blocks around the perimeter of the toat onto a backing board. Then I just clamp it in. Works pretty well, but yours is probably more precise 👍
Great video!! Very well done! Question - do you try to make the angle blocks slightly thinner than the tote so that the jig tightens the tote firmly? And did you ever consider 2 screws in the angle blocks to prevent any slippage?
I don't even mess with an angle block. I eyeball it in my mill vise. Good enough. What I do is I drill the hole then lay out the pattern. Doing it that way insures the hole comes out right where I want it to. Because the hole is already there before I cut the tote out.
@@bobweiram6321 When I drill a tote hole the only bits I have that are long enough are aircraft bits and drilling one of those through that much material it is anyone's guess where it's going to come out. You can figure it to within a quarter inch, or so. But I can guarantee you that bit's going to wander in the bore. Which is why I drill first then lay the pattern out to the drilled hole. Now I guess I could drill from both sides. Or maybe get a better drill bit. So far none of that has happened here for me.
@@1pcfred I lay the pattern first since it has to be oriented to the grain pattern. Wood has inconsistent hardness because its made up of fibers. Like a bandsaw blade, the cutting tip of a drill bit will seek toward adjacent softer fibers causing it to wander. To prevent it, establish the first inch or so of the hole depth with a rigid stubby bit of the same diameter. The hole serves as a guide bushing for the longer bit. Some drill bits are only fluted for the first inch or so while the rest of the length is solid. This is so it doesn't whittle away at hole wall if the bit flexes. There are, however, three bigger factors necessary to prevent the bit from wandering. First, peck frequently by pulling the bit all the way out of the hole to fully evacuate the chips. Do it the moment you sense any hesitation while drilling instead of applying more pressure, which leads to the second factor, drill pressure. Apply as little pressure as necessary and no more. More pressure will cause the drill to flex and wander. Third and finally, ensure your bit is very sharp and correctly ground. Dull bits require more pressure and a poorly ground one will cut more on one side than the other, causing the bit to wander.
@@bobweiram6321 look at it this way if you could shoot first then paint the target over where the shot landed you could get a bullseye every time. So why wouldn't you do that? No one's going to see you doing it in your shop. Winning!
Thank’s a lot for your vidéo and the beauty of your job.!! I would like to Know what kind of router jig you use to make your outside line for your tote?? Thank’s from France..! Alex
Jigs are great, not throwing any shade at this jig, IF your making dozens of parts a jig is great. But seriously, haw many plane totes is the average guy ever going to make? the template works great just line up the template with the grain of the wood! Yes waist a few square inches of wood or spend a dozen hours on a jig.
@@pacquetman yes, as I said, for the person making Many of the same anything, a jig is the smartest way to go. But the person that needs to make only one, the template beats spending many hours designing, building, testing and tweaking a jig so it works just right. This looks suspiciously like a U tuber in need of new content.
I'm pretty sure Dave makes quite a few. I was brought to this channel from someone unboxing 30 or so of these that Dave made for him and I personally will be reaching out to him to see if he would be willing to make multiple for me for each of my planes.
I've made a few plane totes and what I do is drill the hole first then lay the tote pattern out to the hole. Doing it that way I don't have to worry so much about where the hole comes out. I have a fair idea of generally where the bit will exit. Then once the hole is drilled I lay the pattern out to the hole and cut it out. That takes all of the guesswork out of it.
Amazing. Won’t have anymore the decentering issue. Well done mate.
Subbed. I really enjoyed your narration style. Thanks for sharing.
Thanks and welcome
Awesome video and jig. You’re a legend mate!
Thanks a ton!
I was wondering how you achieved getting the grain structure going the right direction. Again, I’m impressed.
I like the grain to run parallel with the sole of the plane, I don’t worry too much if it’s quarter sawn or flat sawn, I’ve seen plenty both ways, although I’d prefer quarter sawn. And of course sometimes you have to work with the piece of wood you have.
I have several Stanley planes with the grain running at an angle. It 'should' help with the tote not breaking so easily.
I agree with Fred, but do whatever works, and those are some beautiful totes.
The amount of detail put into a simple jig is just amazing! If you're gonna use something alot why don't make it pretty huh!
Liked and subbed!
justing saying hi keep upthe great job🤙
Slick. I like the adjustable angle blocks. I was noticing that difference between the LV template and the OG Stanley totes re: grain direction and debating what to do about that.
There's nothing saying you can't lay the pattern any way you want on a piece of wood. None of that made any sense to me. You want the grain one way then put the pattern that way. I don't see what the problem there is. It's a piece of paper. It'll lay on the wood any which way.
Absolutely. I was overthinking it, methinks.
@@scottmassey6948 I was confused about what the presenter was going on about there. Maybe he thinks the flat has to be lined up with the edge of a board? The last time I checked wood can be cut. Correct me if I'm wrong though.
Great video. I made a jig by gluing some blocks around the perimeter of the toat onto a backing board. Then I just clamp it in. Works pretty well, but yours is probably more precise 👍
Great video!! Very well done! Question - do you try to make the angle blocks slightly thinner than the tote so that the jig tightens the tote firmly? And did you ever consider 2 screws in the angle blocks to prevent any slippage?
The angle blocks are 7/8” thick, a wee bit thinner than a tote.
@@DaveCorinth thanks for making all the amazing content Dave - love watching your videos
Sorry, Dave. Do you have plans for your tote jig?
I do not, but I guess I should make some. I tried to be as detailed as possible in the video.
Really like the jig idea! And another great video 👍
What i didn't understand was, why you made x5 angle blocks?
Sargent 414’s and 14’s have their rod angle at 25 degrees. And since I like the Sargent VBM’s I’ve recently started making totes for them as well.
Makes complete sense 👍🙏😉
Thanks for sharing your knowledge.
The jig is up. I just clamp it on a drill press vice to with an angle block.
I don't even mess with an angle block. I eyeball it in my mill vise. Good enough. What I do is I drill the hole then lay out the pattern. Doing it that way insures the hole comes out right where I want it to. Because the hole is already there before I cut the tote out.
@@1pcfred Yeah, if the pattern is already on it, you just line up the drill bit with the centerline.
@@bobweiram6321 When I drill a tote hole the only bits I have that are long enough are aircraft bits and drilling one of those through that much material it is anyone's guess where it's going to come out. You can figure it to within a quarter inch, or so. But I can guarantee you that bit's going to wander in the bore. Which is why I drill first then lay the pattern out to the drilled hole. Now I guess I could drill from both sides. Or maybe get a better drill bit. So far none of that has happened here for me.
@@1pcfred I lay the pattern first since it has to be oriented to the grain pattern. Wood has inconsistent hardness because its made up of fibers. Like a bandsaw blade, the cutting tip of a drill bit will seek toward adjacent softer fibers causing it to wander.
To prevent it, establish the first inch or so of the hole depth with a rigid stubby bit of the same diameter. The hole serves as a guide bushing for the longer bit. Some drill bits are only fluted for the first inch or so while the rest of the length is solid. This is so it doesn't whittle away at hole wall if the bit flexes.
There are, however, three bigger factors necessary to prevent the bit from wandering. First, peck frequently by pulling the bit all the way out of the hole to fully evacuate the chips. Do it the moment you sense any hesitation while drilling instead of applying more pressure, which leads to the second factor, drill pressure. Apply as little pressure as necessary and no more. More pressure will cause the drill to flex and wander. Third and finally, ensure your bit is very sharp and correctly ground. Dull bits require more pressure and a poorly ground one will cut more on one side than the other, causing the bit to wander.
@@bobweiram6321 look at it this way if you could shoot first then paint the target over where the shot landed you could get a bullseye every time. So why wouldn't you do that? No one's going to see you doing it in your shop. Winning!
Thank’s a lot for your vidéo and the beauty of your job.!!
I would like to Know what kind of router jig you use to make your outside line for your tote??
Thank’s from France..!
Alex
This afternoon I’m going to release the another video showing the process of making a tote from scratch. It will show how I cut the blanks out.
Thank’s so much..!
Bonjour et merci pour ce magnifique partage de connaissances. Pouvez-vous donner le lien du plan de lee valley de la poignée s’il vous plaît?
Dave, why not epoxy the head of the carriage bolt in place?
I thought about threading a piece of all thread that would be permanent, but I wanted to keep this as simple as possible.
Jigs are great, not throwing any shade at this jig, IF your making dozens of parts a jig is great. But seriously, haw many plane totes is the average guy ever going to make? the template works great just line up the template with the grain of the wood! Yes waist a few square inches of wood or spend a dozen hours on a jig.
Besides, perhaps ... making a matched set of totes for the planes one has collected, there is value in making a jig beyond just using the jig.
@@pacquetman yes, as I said, for the person making Many of the same anything, a jig is the smartest way to go.
But the person that needs to make only one, the template beats spending many hours designing, building, testing and tweaking a jig so it works just right.
This looks suspiciously like a U tuber in need of new content.
I'm pretty sure Dave makes quite a few. I was brought to this channel from someone unboxing 30 or so of these that Dave made for him and I personally will be reaching out to him to see if he would be willing to make multiple for me for each of my planes.
I literally made a paduak tote today and after making the handle screwed up the drilling. Making this jig for sure. Thank you for the video