Sealing Bottom Planking Seams on Our 1938 19' Chris Craft Special Runabout 2 21 2017
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- Опубликовано: 20 фев 2017
- We continue racing against the March 21, 2017, deadline, the day I begin towing my 1938 19’ Chris-Craft Custom Runabout to Tavares, FL, and the Sunnyland ACBS Show.
We have applies the first five of an eventual twenty coats of Pettit Hi-Build Varnish have begun the process of varnishing her above the waterline.
Mickey Dupuis, Custom Metal Restoration in Holyoke, MA, is about half-way to restoring all of the hardware, including Flyin’ By’s long cutwater.
Her original bottom has our attention now. We tested about 50 fasteners, finding all of them rock solid tight. The red enamel, not bottom paint, yielded to the Circa 1850 Heavy Body Paint & Varnish Remover quite easily. Removing her original copper bronze paint was another matter, but, finally, we reached our goal, bare wood from stem to stern and chine to keel.
The planking, which is original to the boat, is in near perfect condition. No splits or cracks could be found. The inevitable dings and gouges have been addressed using 3M Premium Marine Filler.
This morning, and what is the topic of this video, we are focused on sealing her bottom seams using Interlux Seam Compound for Underwater Seams.
Seam Sealer must only be applied to wood that has been primed. The three coats of CPES also acts as an excellent primer for this purpose.
Filling each seam completely is the goal. Reaching that goal will likely involve at least two applications of Seam Sealer, done 24 - 48 hours apart.
The tools for this task are simple: an about 5’ x 8” piece of thin wood of some sort, a flexible putty knife, Interlux 216 Special Thinner as the solvent, and a quart of Interlux brown seam sealer.
We have “only” 80+ feet of seams to fill… What fun! 
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Thank you for your videos! Its a great service to the community of new restorers! I love you guys!
Hey Reed! You made my day early on a snowy morning here in Vermont. We will keep them coming for sure. I am always happy to try and answer questions our videos do not address.
MY PLEASURE! I'd like to talk to you about my non profit. Can you call me 858-335-6480@@snakemtboatworks
This is great information. We have used 5200 and we do have the drooling from the seams and 3M didn't have any idea of why the sealant was falling out! We finally have an answer to our questions.
Thanks,
John
helpful information thanks for that look forward to your recordings one day I will look back through these for some very useful tips
Thank you, David.I shot and thought I had uploaded the "toothpicking" video late this afternoon, but something must have happened. I'll upload it again first thing in the AM.Michael
Hey Thank for you input on this process. Seems this is what i will do with my potential 53 Corsair if i decide to get her. She has been out for quite some time. Any sense to using cotton packing under the compound? Also what exoxy coating did you use on top of the boards and do you apply that first?
You are welcome. We have discovered, tested and have now replaced the Seam Compound with Jamestown Distributors' TotalBoat Thixo Flex. Here's a video we shot on this product: snakemountainboatworks.com/1954-penn-yan-captivator-how-to-seal-bottom-seams-using-thixo-flex/
While I have not worked on a Corsair, my suspicion is that her planking is 3/8" thick, way to thin to accommodate cotton beneath the caulking material.
So if I understand correctly. Buy sealing the seams on this boat with the original bottom. Does this just help the bottom to soak up faster? So you strip the bottom paint , then apply the clear to wood, then the seam sealer then repaint with hard copper bronze? Two coats?
That was then. We no longer use INT Seam Sealer because it has been replaced by better products like TotalBoat ThixoFlex and TotalBoat SEAL.
You missed two steps: strip, seal with CPES; pay the seams with ThixoFlex or SEAL; SEAL AGAIN WITH THREE MORE COATS OF CPES, APPLY FIVE COATS OF INTERLUX INTERPROTECT 2000E BARRIER COAT PRIMER - do not cheat; apply THREE coats of Pettit Hard Racing Copper Bronze bottom paint.
Can you paint over that? And does it harden,
Good Morning. Can you tell me what went into your decision to strip the planks, coat with CPES and fill seams with interlux seam compound vs. removal of the planking and bed with 3M5200? Did you refasten the planking prior to the application of the CPES and the seam compound? Will you apply multiple coats of 2000E barrier coat prior to bottom paint? Lastly, what is your expectation of the bottom knowing that it will continue to go thru the seasonal swelling and drying out. Thanks for the videos they are very informative.
Flyin' By is a completely original 1938 19' Chris-Craft Double Cockpit Forward Custom Runabout - essentially a barrel-back.Running her hard over two months on Lake Champlain last summer confirmed that her hull remains absolutely stiff and sound, and that includes the bottom.Yes, she must be soaked up in the spring, but I see that as a miniscule price to pay for originality. (She will be kept on a lift and lie just above the water next summer, which will ensure that she remains swelled.)We know the bottom is original for a fact. Why? How? The comprehensive documentation her first two owners compiled so stipulates. The second owner, from whom I purchased Flyin' By, confirmed that her bottom was never touched during his 46+ years of owning her.Additionally, as we scraped waste material out of her bottom seams, we also found evidence of the original canvas interlayer everywhere. We also selected and tested random fasteners throughout the bottom planking - more than 50 of them. Nary a loose or broken fastener was to be found.We are preservationists first and foremost. Releasing perfectly good original planks from a perfectly sound bottom is a fool's errand for us.The "trade-off" between originality, and the obvious convenience of and extra stiffness provided by a new True 5200 bottom -s just that, a false choice.Finally, we have not decided between Pettit Tie Coat Primer and Interlux 2000E two-part barrier coat primer, but will be sure to video the application and reveal our choice then.
We are preservationists who save rather than replace original wood if/when possible. Her bottom planks, which are original, are in perfect condition, so saving them is our only option.
Yes, we did refasten, especially along the chines, garboards, transom and stem.
Yes, we applied five coats of Interlux 2000E barrier coat before applying four coats of Hard Racing Copper Bronze bottom paint.
@@snakemtboatworks Ok, interesting that I see you eventually put a true 5200 bottom on this boat. Glad to see you came around on that. I believe preservation should not mean riding around in a hull that is slowly pulling itself apart due to swelling and shrinking. Hope your 5200 does as well as ours. Twenty plus years of regular use now and it’s still dry and strong.
is the epoxy sealer needed or will it adhere to the raw wood?
Yes and Yes.
You can use 3M 5200 if you do it right. Fill all the seams then soak the bottom thoroughly and cover with 1 or 2 mil plastic to retain the moisture. (Better yet, if you know it's going to rain, plan accordingly so the boat can be pushed outside. Cover when the rain stops. Day two, remove plastic, thoroughly soak again and then re-cover. This process can be repeated until about day three. The wetter you can keep the bottom, the better. The swelling of the wood will squeeze the excess uncured 5200 out of the seams. Remove the excess with a multimaster after the 5200 has completely cured (5 to 7 days).
Really? Not hardly. First the 5200 must be fully cure before the first coat of primer is applied, so, the claim "uncured 5200 will squeeze out" is bereft of a basis in fact, since there will be no uncured.
Keeping the wood wet is silly at this stage. Unless its moisture content is near 12%, primer cannot be applied.
Finally, let's suppose you continue with your folly. Once it is fully cured, 5200 retains ZERO elasticity and even less compressability. The wood will move during wetting and drying cycles when in use. That 5200 will crush wood planking when the wood swells and tear away from the same planking when the wood shrinks while on the hard over the winter.
The result? A bit of effort with a reefing hook will remove what's left of the 5200 in a couple of years when the bottom must be redone because it is leaking like a sieve.
The best product for this application? TotalBoat Thixo Flex, which can be payed using a piston type pneumatic caulking gun. West also has G-Flex, which has the same properties, but is supplied in cans or squeeze bottles and must be mixed 1:1 by weight.
Check it out: www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/show_product.do?pid=336174.
@@snakemtboatworks Yes, hardly. I never said anything about primer. Read my post again. This method is for bare wood. It has worked on at least six vintage mahogany planked boats that did not require a wholesale bottom replacement...and I've never had a leaker. The 5200 is forced out when the wood initially swells over the first couple days. After all the excess has been forced out by swelling and the 5200 has cured completely, it is removed with a multimaster. Only then is CPES followed by primer applied. If/when stored out of the water for any length of time, water should be added to the bilge to retain a high moisture level and the boat covered...and that's the case with any planked boat. Your opinion is the result of guessing and making assumptions. Mine is from experience. Nautilus Marine Restorations
@@tonkingulfyachtclub8111 Hmmm... and then it begins breaking free, tearing the wood asunder while it dries out completely sitting on the hard the following winter.
Check out this video: ruclips.net/video/Vh9DwOromas/видео.html.
That 5200 certainly did its job! NOT! The fellow who did this work prior to the Captivator coming to us for major leaking and bottom issues contacted me. He was shocked to say the least, and he's a well respected New England woody restoration guy.
We spoke about how he executed this repair.
Why am I pointing you towards this work? "Having read all about it in some ACBS or other wood boat publication, I followed the procedure prescribed therein precisely. It involved taking everything down to bare wood, wetting the wood profusely and then paying the 5200.
"As predicted in the publication, yes, the wood swelled and pushed gobs of 5200 out of the seams over several days. Not having any appropriate power tools then, I excised the stalagmites using a single edge razor blade in a super strong window glass scraper.
"I got it all fair finally and then proceeded with priming etc."
This boat is dry sailed and is in the water only when being used. This fellow's obviously careful work lasted .... are you ready? ... six years at which time a good 75% or more of the 5200 had broken its bonds with the bottom planking. Elsewhere the planking was horribly crushed. Ever try to replace bottom planking on a Striptite hull? Not fun.
You are welcome to continue executing on what I am convinced is a wrong-headed methodology. There is no way on God's earth that I will adopt what I know is fraught with huge downsides and virtually no upsides. I will stay with either Interlux Seam Compound for Underwater Applications or West G-Flex or Jamestown's TotalBoat Thixo Flex, products I know, are correct for this application and do not require me to flood my shop each time I do bottom work.
Yes, 3M5200 has its proper place and proper applications, True 5200 Bottoms and as an adhesive. Caulking in any manner, including sealing bottom seams- is not one of them..
@@snakemtboatworks I wonder how this boat is doing now. We have a twenty year old 5200 hull done with the Dannenberg method, never needs soaking, and not one Plank has buckled, has never leaked a drop, and rides like a dream. We use it constantly all summer, sits in a lift, and goes right in tue water dry every spring. I get the whole original thing, but CC never intended these hulls to last more than ten years or so as you know, and the canvass layer is long gone on your boat. Hope it’s still holding together for you. Fir me, driving my family around in the middle of a big lake, I’ll take the 5200 hull any day over an ancient hull that was never meant to last this long.
@@arkos55 We jettisoned Seam Sealer in favor of doing True 5200 bottoms a' la Danenberg wherever possible. Paying Seam sealer is akin to going on a fool's errand. Yes, it does work, and, as far as we know, the boat in question continues performing well and staying, well, pretty dry.
Read Don's seminal piece on what a True 520 Bottom is, and is not is well worth the time needed. I include a link to it here:
snakemountainboatworks.com/vintage-boat-preservation-how-to/how-to-apply-true-5200-bottom/.
Hi I live in the UK I'm currently restoring a Broads cruiser with everything that's going on at the moment I'm struggling to get interlux seam compound IV herd so many good reviews and would really like try this product
Forget it! We now use Jamestown Distributors' TotalBoat Thixo Flex Flexible Epoxy www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/show_product.do?pid=336174.
See: ruclips.net/video/Pf7kVroALuQ/видео.html
would this product work one a cypress hill shrimp boat? only the buts one her bottom are corked but she's 31 years old and we have only had three planks that needed to be changed in the entire hull. she's 52x18 with a 6ft loaded draft. hull is true 2x4 with 2x10 dew sawn frames. keel is a one piece pine keel 12in wide 16in tall
Ernst, yes it will, but we've discovered another product you might consider since then. Jamestown Distributors' TotalBoat Thixo Flex, which I demonstrate and speak about in this video: ruclips.net/video/Pf7kVroALuQ/видео.html.
If you use a pneumatic gun, be sure it is the piston variety.
The planks on this hull are a bare one inch wide, so waste inevitably ends up on the surface. I must now sand the entire surface with 60 grit to make it fair.
"Regular" planking is wide enough that you should be able to clean the waste before the material cures. I found that acetone and a stainless pot scrubber is excellent for scouring the plank faces.