For the rust, I learned about OSPHO recently, its very very harsh on rust and paint, I used it to clean a rusty gas tank and it cleaned it almost perfectly
Spotless welds? WTH is that? Spot weld. Anyway, you need to invest in an electric angle grinder that can hold 4.5" discs. With that you can use 3M Sandblaster discs. They are simply the best for removing paint and rust. For places that you can't reach with the angle blaster, use paint remover and 40 - 80 grit sand paper. For the spot weld dimples, fill them with WELD metal not plastic filler. I just left mine as-is. They look normal and are not noticeable or unsightly. Regarding all the overlapping joints and rust. If the car has not rusted in those places in like 40-45+ years, then it's not going to all of a sudden start rusting there. Surface rust is no big deal. Have you looked inside some of the closed sections of the unibody? Guess what? They are all covered with surface rust? What are you going to do about that? Recommend cavity wax - Google it. I recommend Just do your best at cleaning and sealing the surface rusted areas like lap joints and moving on. You will never get all the lap joints out of the car the whole unibody is lap jointed and spot welded. The best thing you can do to prevent rust is to not expose the car to water - keep it inside, don't drive it if there is any chance of rain, and wash it with very little or no water.
You are doing a great job restoring the car. Most people have no appreciation for what you are undertaking and no idea what you are doing. I have restored 3 240Zs and grew up working in my father's body shop. The early Datsun vehicles were often manufactured with no anti corrosion measures and if you were to open up rocker panels, frame rails and the air ducting on the inner fender panels you would find the cars were spot welded together with no paint or primer or rust protection ever applied. Just something to consider as I have typically opened those areas up in order to address and treat appropriately. Good luck!
Really hard work removing rust and paint by hands, do you have a Media Blast shop (sand or glass) near by, It will be done in less than a day and the progress is much faster.
This is awesome! You're taking on a HUGE project most people will never even attempt on their lifetime. But, with something of this age, and the extent you're going. Maybe, looking into a dustless blaster, or media blaster, or just full on sandblasting as much of the car as possible would be best. Then afterwards a few cans of epoxy primer to make it last. But, then you'll have a really clean slate to work with
Do you have like a thingiverse page or somewhere where I can have/buy some of your models? After watching this video and your last with the printed fenders, I'm realizing that it would be super convenient if I end up trying to build a 240z. I can try to model them but I'm not an amazing 3d modeler lol
@@BradBuilds You should, I see that a lot on RUclips. Especially the americans don't use hearing protection when using loud tools. Example. The IR die grinder 307b is rated as high as 94db when grinding, and high exposure to noise over 80db it is recommended to use hearing protection as it will give a hearing loss over time.
Haha this is sweet I'm actually in a similar spot of my build (76 280z) although I will say mine has a lot more rust! My floor pans and subframe are pretty much gone.
I guess if you tackle the whole car with how you thought about rust underneath like the brakeline tabs you'd have to disassemble the whole thing... there certanly is a bit of rust in every seem on these cars and unless you acid dip it (and most likely even then) it's impossible to get rid of all of it. If you prime an seam seal everything properly all of that is probably fine and won't bother you again for a lifetime these things are more than 40 years old. if these spots didn't rust through until now they won't rust out in the next 40 years. especially not after taking care of everything like you seem to do. Edit: that hood latch holder looked absolutely fine rust wise tbh. It took a bit of time for me to accept this too tho so i feel you :D I really enjoyed the video, keep them coming!
Thanks for that. Sometimes I get a bit overwhelmed looking at all the places rust is hiding haha. I definitely have feel a bit of guilt regarding the hood latch holder 😅
@@BradBuilds It depends on the type of blasting thats done. A lot of people are using crushed walnut shells and that is really good. People use it for fiberglass bodies/parts.
Chemical rust removal is hit or miss. You can't go wrong with a wire brush on an angle grinder. Paint stripper discs are great too. I think chemicals should be used when you're dealing with tighter spaces. If I was doing this level of restoration, I'd just pay a company to clean the chassis and body. Either tank dip or sandblasting.
If you will sand/grind why even use the rust converter. First get as much healthy metal as you can then use the rust converter to seep into the pinholes you could not reach and to stop the ambient moisture rust that will be forming on the car. I'm sure professionals have many better methods too, but this one I saw used by some bodyshop guy "Tommy" on Honda CRX of the Ricer Miata channel and it aligns closely to what you are doing right now.
I should have noted this in the video, but the section of metal where I was using the rust converter did not react at all to sanding or using a die grinder alone. Literally took 10-20 seconds of hold the die grinder to get any of it come off in a tiny spot. I’ll check out his stuff, thank you!
For the rust, I learned about OSPHO recently, its very very harsh on rust and paint, I used it to clean a rusty gas tank and it cleaned it almost perfectly
Awesome! I'll have to give that a try
Spotless welds? WTH is that? Spot weld. Anyway, you need to invest in an electric angle grinder that can hold 4.5" discs. With that you can use 3M Sandblaster discs. They are simply the best for removing paint and rust. For places that you can't reach with the angle blaster, use paint remover and 40 - 80 grit sand paper. For the spot weld dimples, fill them with WELD metal not plastic filler. I just left mine as-is. They look normal and are not noticeable or unsightly. Regarding all the overlapping joints and rust. If the car has not rusted in those places in like 40-45+ years, then it's not going to all of a sudden start rusting there. Surface rust is no big deal. Have you looked inside some of the closed sections of the unibody? Guess what? They are all covered with surface rust? What are you going to do about that? Recommend cavity wax - Google it. I recommend Just do your best at cleaning and sealing the surface rusted areas like lap joints and moving on. You will never get all the lap joints out of the car the whole unibody is lap jointed and spot welded. The best thing you can do to prevent rust is to not expose the car to water - keep it inside, don't drive it if there is any chance of rain, and wash it with very little or no water.
You are doing a great job restoring the car. Most people have no appreciation for what you are undertaking and no idea what you are doing. I have restored 3 240Zs and grew up working in my father's body shop. The early Datsun vehicles were often manufactured with no anti corrosion measures and if you were to open up rocker panels, frame rails and the air ducting on the inner fender panels you would find the cars were spot welded together with no paint or primer or rust protection ever applied. Just something to consider as I have typically opened those areas up in order to address and treat appropriately. Good luck!
It's exciting to see how the build is progressing!
Please rent one of those big sand/water blasting machines you have in America. I think it's called something like "Dustless blasting"
I would, but they're too expensive!
@@BradBuilds even renting?
Really hard work removing rust and paint by hands, do you have a Media Blast shop (sand or glass) near by, It will be done in less than a day and the progress is much faster.
ur better off getting a sandblaster
This is awesome! You're taking on a HUGE project most people will never even attempt on their lifetime. But, with something of this age, and the extent you're going. Maybe, looking into a dustless blaster, or media blaster, or just full on sandblasting as much of the car as possible would be best. Then afterwards a few cans of epoxy primer to make it last. But, then you'll have a really clean slate to work with
Thanks! Yeah I've been seriously considering it, it just comes down to the costs involved
Love the videos man. I'm excited to see this progression.
Damn part 8 already, i guess i am not sleeping tonight!
Ayyy facebook fam also is there going to be a video for the r33 of the stories??
Came from instagram, pleasently surprised that you're not only good with digital cars, but with real ones as well😂👍
Finally 🙃
Doesn’t want to get rid of spot welds because they’re “original to the car,” but also gets rid of all the harness clips....
Although I kinda hate the wire harness clips, I wanted to leave them, there was just too much rust
Try bristle disc from 3M, green ( strongest) takes everything off but does not attack the metal.
Do you have like a thingiverse page or somewhere where I can have/buy some of your models? After watching this video and your last with the printed fenders, I'm realizing that it would be super convenient if I end up trying to build a 240z. I can try to model them but I'm not an amazing 3d modeler lol
Luxky undernieth battrey trey was not rooted away from acid leakege
I have a 1984 mistubishi galant same work i did
That body is insanely clean and rust free -- good find
Your doing a grear job keep it up 👌👌👍
Why aren't you using hearing protection when using the die grinder?
I actually didn’t think of that and feel like a newb, am I supposed to wear hearing protection?
@@BradBuilds i mean if it’s loud then you probably should 🤷♂️
@@BradBuilds You should, I see that a lot on RUclips. Especially the americans don't use hearing protection when using loud tools. Example. The IR die grinder 307b is rated as high as 94db when grinding, and high exposure to noise over 80db it is recommended to use hearing protection as it will give a hearing loss over time.
@@KimOve Well thank you for the info! I will start wearing hearing protection :)
The Winn Dixie music is so chill, subbed
This build is amazing, but what color are you gonna paint it?
👀👀👀
Haha this is sweet I'm actually in a similar spot of my build (76 280z) although I will say mine has a lot more rust! My floor pans and subframe are pretty much gone.
Yeah I got really luck with how little rust there is on this thing!
@@BradBuilds anychance I could pay you to design a body kit for mine? I just really want my z to be unique.
I guess if you tackle the whole car with how you thought about rust underneath like the brakeline tabs you'd have to disassemble the whole thing... there certanly is a bit of rust in every seem on these cars and unless you acid dip it (and most likely even then) it's impossible to get rid of all of it. If you prime an seam seal everything properly all of that is probably fine and won't bother you again for a lifetime
these things are more than 40 years old. if these spots didn't rust through until now they won't rust out in the next 40 years. especially not after taking care of everything like you seem to do.
Edit: that hood latch holder looked absolutely fine rust wise tbh. It took a bit of time for me to accept this too tho so i feel you :D
I really enjoyed the video, keep them coming!
Thanks for that. Sometimes I get a bit overwhelmed looking at all the places rust is hiding haha. I definitely have feel a bit of guilt regarding the hood latch holder 😅
Good stuff!
What is the benefit to cleaning the engine bay that way vs sand/media blasting?
Cheaper, that's about it. I've heard some horror stories regarding blasting car bodies as well and am kind of scared to do it
@@BradBuilds It depends on the type of blasting thats done. A lot of people are using crushed walnut shells and that is really good. People use it for fiberglass bodies/parts.
13:56 😂😂😂
Chemical rust removal is hit or miss. You can't go wrong with a wire brush on an angle grinder. Paint stripper discs are great too. I think chemicals should be used when you're dealing with tighter spaces. If I was doing this level of restoration, I'd just pay a company to clean the chassis and body. Either tank dip or sandblasting.
hi
HI
Your videos are sick, your Chanel is gonna grow defensively. How much was the car?
For every wire clip you removed thats about 1k depreciation
moar!
the build is progressing sooo well!!
will you leave the car series?
I love following this build
Are you going to remove the orignal paint or are you going to paint over?
little bit of both depending on location
I love this series, psyched to know it'll be more regular
If you will sand/grind why even use the rust converter. First get as much healthy metal as you can then use the rust converter to seep into the pinholes you could not reach and to stop the ambient moisture rust that will be forming on the car. I'm sure professionals have many better methods too, but this one I saw used by some bodyshop guy "Tommy" on Honda CRX of the Ricer Miata channel and it aligns closely to what you are doing right now.
I should have noted this in the video, but the section of metal where I was using the rust converter did not react at all to sanding or using a die grinder alone. Literally took 10-20 seconds of hold the die grinder to get any of it come off in a tiny spot. I’ll check out his stuff, thank you!