Yes, on my shed and in 2014 just as you did with the cascading/overlapping method of the materials. Doing so on the rake edge of the roof made me think it was "overkill" but it looks way better than none at all. Just curious as to what happens to the underlayment when you have to reshingle? Can I expect that the old underlayment will rip out and the new underlayment will just slip in under the drip edge?
Great video. However, the drip edge is actually not supposed to be snuggled against the fascia. Its actually supposed to be a half inch space distance between the two. This eliminates the roll back due to surface suction and adds more life to the wood surface. Also makes installing guttering easier by adding a slip lip to hold in place especially when your short of extra help to hold in place while applying hardware.
Fantastic I’m glad it was helpful! I’m releasing a video on how to do a whole roof shingles so you might like that too. It’s coming out Sunday this weekend. Stay tuned!
very well explained on the rake edge. not many videos on this. buying a house that doesn't have this and might be a problem. thanks. learned something new.
Is that the fascia on this house? Im doing a shed and i have the 2x4 subfascia thats nailed to my trusses then im putting fascia board on. Doesnt the drip edge go over the fascia? Im not a roofer obviously and this is an actual question. Although, probably a stupid question
Getting ready for soffit and final electric inspections on Monday in southwest Florida, following your tutorials I’ve never failed a inspection, you’re a rock Josh 💪💪💪💪
Keep up the content, I’m going to be installing My own, rolling out My own panels off a coil. If If I was rich, I’d be getting copper just for the hell of it.
I built my workshop, my wood storage and the pool shed in 2005 using that kind of technic. I was a noob in roofing with no experience. Still am but with internet theses days you can learn a lot. Corners surely are not done like that and using caulking wich cracks later on exposing your wood just like mine did, well surely this time overlapping the drip on each side and staying away from caulking will be my main objective. Looking on the net at "antoine beaudoin", a school teacher in construction in Québec shows you the right way to do a lot of stuff regarding roofing.
Yes thank you for addressing the rake edge on top of paper and drip edge under. Theres something else that is supper common is having the drip too tight to the fascia. Technically it shouldn't even touch the fascia because during slow rain conditions it will drip down the fascia board. Also it's much easier for your gutter installer to work and not have to bend or what I see far too often notch the drip.
You are welcome. I’m glad you found value in watching my video. Yes how everything goes together on overhang seems to be a mystery to most people. Stay tuned!
tighter nicer cuts next time, looks good but better with no gaps. some homeowners sure find something like that to complain about. I run into them a lot. damn perfectionist homeowners don't understand it ain't gonna hurt but they still complain. so I'm just saying no gaps next time. but of course new construction it won't matter because it will all be complete before they even see it being installed😊 take care and your explaining was Excellent for some fellas out there trying to install metal 👍🏻
So at 4:15 I noticed you have 2 pieces coming together at the peak. I ran into this before and found that cutting a short piece 1 ft x 1 ft, notching the front to match the roof pitch, and just bending the top side will provide protection for that area from ice/water etc. a min. of 6" on each half of the roof will ensure water does not run into the gap where the two drip edges meet at the peak. Even making one side longer you can cut your pitch angle and bend 6 inches over the peak and on top of the opposite piece.
Do you put anything on the facia board after so water doesn't hit directly on the wood? We are reparing an old shed and we dont have facia, we were just going to attach the drip edge to the sheathing, would that be okay too?
Shouldn't have to hang aluminum any different than steel. The aluminum will not rust. Nor will it corrode as long as its not sitting directly on treated wood. If you have treated wood run paper under it and down to the fascia board. (Avoid it making gutter difficult to get under your apron. Do the homeowner a favor and make sure there is a proper kickout/kink at the bottom to help brake capillary action/siphoning.
GAF (roofing product manufacturer) says to install drip edge at eaves *before* your ice&water (i.e. peel & stick) underlay, but install the drip edge on the rakes (i.e. gables) *after* your ice&water shield. Here's a GAF video illustrating this nicely: ruclips.net/video/_FdHiX61SIE/видео.html
Question: I'm about to get a new roof and saw that my neighbor had silicone caulking at the bottom edge of the gable apron all along it's length. Why would a roofer do that as does it need to be sealed at the bottom or not sealed? Also, if you have gutters and there is more than a 2" drop on the length.... do you need a edge that is 2" along the first part, and then an edge that is wider for when there is more than a 2" drop on the 16" lenghth? Thanks, and hope you are still answering your comments.
You don't. You run separate pieces from each mitre/corner, and cut the faces out of each side so a proper leaf overlaps one over the other. You also leave a tab on the first piece so the second piece has a return for water. Then you seal that lap because you do not want your valley leaking there. Leave the corner loose enough to get fascia and gutter underneath.. You run the valley metal long enough to return the water to your drip edge.
I would think you would have a kicker installed at the upper end of the sub-fascia board as this would provide a spacer for the water to drip away for the actual fascia material. Also, why not cut the drip edge such that the metal is not exposed in the outside corner? You could then weave the angled drip edge into the straight drip edge. Just my thoughts. Thanks for the insight.
Thanks. I have a flat carport I am redoing..with plywood sheating. I bought some T type drip edge like the one you have here. You showed me how to do the corner where the rake and eave meet. Question...my dripedge came in 5 ft lengths....As far as joining where they overlap, any suggestions? I think I saw one video where the guy made a cut, on another...just tapped them together...thanks
I'm having to replace the existing drip edge installed about five years ago when the house was built. Unfortunately the wafer board decking did not match up well on the edge and the existing is coming off, resulting in a water leak behind my guttering. I'm hesitant to roll the shingles back far enough to allow nailing by hand, and my nail guns don't shoot roofing nails. Can I use deck or drywall screws or some type of adhesive ?
No you can’t use drywall screws or adhesive especially on the first course of shingles. Your first course is important for wind uplift. That’s why there’s starter course, drip edge and bull all at the very beginning of the roof and along the rake. You can hand nail them being that your only doing about two courses. Use a flat bar to raise your shingles enough without damaging them and a cats paw to remove the existing nails.
Sounds to me like there is no ice and water barrier, you need to remove 30” of shingles as I&W is 36” wide and install that where ever you have gutters. Make sure of the pitch of the roof decking is over the fascia board for runoff before installing the ice and water then the drip edge before tying in new shingles. Lots of videos to show you the process - good luck…best regards
I just bought a house, has new shingles and drip edges only on the sections seen from the street. Whoever installed it didn't finish the rest of the house. How do I proceed to add the missing drip edges once the roof is done?
Where does your gutter go in reference to drip edge? Below bottom or behind drip edge as it is not nailed on face? Won’t water go behind gutter unless drip edge extends into gutter?
I think it's either or here. If you use a drip edge you usually don't use a gutter. The drip edge replaces a gutter for sheds and such. I've never seen both.
Also I am trying to figure...is the reason the drip edge is installed OVER the underlayment on the rake edge because of wind blowing water under the rake edge? Because if there is water coming from anywhere else..you have a problem anyway right...thanks.
I have never ran into that issue. I think the best thing to do would take the shingles off the edges and install the drip edge. A lot of work but I really don’t see any way around it. You almost have to have drip edge to protect the overhang.
I have done drip edge on an existing roof, it’s certainly possible but is not easy ! Not knowing the pitch and access to what your dealing with I can state what I did: you’ll need a flat bar and hammer, repairs are better with hand tools. Also if there is ice and water on the eaves and rake makes a difference too, or if there is a starter course. Anyway, one of my situations had ice and water on the eaves, no starters anywhere! So install of drip edge on the eaves/ fascia was not bad, going up the rake I had to carefully pull nails up to the ridge trying not to break the tar seals. I was able to do that and since there wasn’t a starter up the rake I installed the drip edge then used black jack(tar) when reseating the shingles. I haven’t had a call back and I had done that years ago, hope the helps- good luck
I’m about a year late but yeah, when installing a metal roof you install eve drip edge first, then your rake edge metal, and finish off with cap metal after prep your ready for panels
That's where soffit and siding goes. Your J installs there and receives you soffit pieces. Then your siding J butts up to the soffit. Some people run siding before the soffit and the widths of the soffit J front and back look uniform. But its a bitch to remove siding when they nail in the top peice and that nail gets buried. Always think about how repairs will work before installation.
For a low slope patio cover, (.5" per foot) what is the best method for adhering fiber reinforce rolled roofing to the drip edge. The mastic I used previously let loose after a number of years, causing rain water to wick back and then under the drip edge. I'm not sure the polyurethane I purchase will adhere any better to the tar shingle roll roofing material.
Isn't there supposed to be a gap between the drip edge and the fascia board? I've been told that water follows a path along the drip edge and will make its way to the fascia board. If there was a gap, the water could not make it to the board. Once rain slows up, the water stops shooting off of the roof and it starts slowly washing down over everything. During this phase is when the water is able to travel along the drip edge and make contact with the fascia board. The claim is the fascia board will rot out much sooner with the drip edge touching it.
There has to be a better way to turn the corner without slicing the drip edge where it's visible (and caulking). Looks terrible and the caulk never holds up.
D-metal installed as drip edge is tragic. Returned your water right to the fascia board. Its bad enough you riddle the bottom perimeter of the roof with unsealed holes. But you also ran tar paper that wrinkled. But, hey, you got paid for it. So there is that.
That kind of drip edge he is using sucks due to water retention the drops follow the drip edge all the way to the fascia board unless it is pulled away from the house half inch
If you could only see what my hired guy did to my roof you would put your head in the sand. He has totally wrecked my roof and as a woman theres no way i can absorb the cost to fix it . I’ll have to remove everything and do it over. I’m wrecked over the whole situation.
Drip is DRIP not rake. It is a different flashing. You continually obscure the difference ...What if you run gutter. You want drip (NOT RAKE) into gutter.
Alright your underlayment job doesnt look too great. Also, that is possibly the worst style drip ive ever seen. If the bottom edge of your drip is making contact with the facia then its defeating the purpose. It should be hugging the facia and then the last 1/4" or so should dog leg out with a little flange that is not making contact. Also, those snips are for cutting flat stock, and quite frankly they're garbage. Get you a 3 pack of WISS red yellow green (right handed cut, center cut, left handed cut) also a true roofer does a miter cut on the corners. What your presenting in this video technically works, but its not something id use as a tutorial.. But hey at least your working with your hands and getting it done. Most people dont get that far so kudos on that front
Have you ever installed drip edge?
No, but I just learned today! Thanks
@@canadiantrucker9574 You are welcome! Thanks a lot for watching I appreciate it
Yes, on my shed and in 2014 just as you did with the cascading/overlapping method of the materials. Doing so on the rake edge of the roof made me think it was "overkill" but it looks way better than none at all. Just curious as to what happens to the underlayment when you have to reshingle? Can I expect that the old underlayment will rip out and the new underlayment will just slip in under the drip edge?
An excellent learning tool. And...the bonus was showing me how to use a speed square. Loved the video!
Needed a quick and easy refresher course. Quick and simple and to the point. Thanks
I'm just about to install a drip edge on the garage I'm building and this video makes me feel confident I'll do it right! Thanks!
Great video. However, the drip edge is actually not supposed to be snuggled against the fascia. Its actually supposed to be a half inch space distance between the two. This eliminates the roll back due to surface suction and adds more life to the wood surface. Also makes installing guttering easier by adding a slip lip to hold in place especially when your short of extra help to hold in place while applying hardware.
Thank goodness for youtube and thank goodness I only installed one corner so far! Tomorrow I will redo. Thanks for the tip.
This video explained how to do the drip edge/rake junction better than any of the videos I've looked at. Nice job :)
Fantastic I’m glad it was helpful! I’m releasing a video on how to do a whole roof shingles so you might like that too. It’s coming out Sunday this weekend. Stay tuned!
Awesome thanks for showing how to cut drip edge and cut proper angle!
Glad it was helpful!
I’m glad you didn’t have to deck with 23/32 CDX like my dad made me do by myself. I’ll stay tuned for more action!
Stay tuned!
That's exactly what I'm doing right now by my self on my only free day
very well explained on the rake edge. not many videos on this. buying a house that doesn't have this and might be a problem. thanks. learned something new.
Is that the fascia on this house? Im doing a shed and i have the 2x4 subfascia thats nailed to my trusses then im putting fascia board on. Doesnt the drip edge go over the fascia? Im not a roofer obviously and this is an actual question. Although, probably a stupid question
This is the best video I've seen on this topic, thanks for the clear instructions.
Getting ready for soffit and final electric inspections on Monday in southwest Florida, following your tutorials I’ve never failed a inspection, you’re a rock Josh 💪💪💪💪
Keep up the content, I’m going to be installing My own, rolling out My own panels off a coil. If If I was rich, I’d be getting copper just for the hell of it.
I built my workshop, my wood storage and the pool shed in 2005 using that kind of technic. I was a noob in roofing with no experience. Still am but with internet theses days you can learn a lot. Corners surely are not done like that and using caulking wich cracks later on exposing your wood just like mine did, well surely this time overlapping the drip on each side and staying away from caulking will be my main objective. Looking on the net at "antoine beaudoin", a school teacher in construction in Québec shows you the right way to do a lot of stuff regarding roofing.
3:06 At the peak of the gable, notch a piece of drip edge and fold it so you don't have a seam at the very peak.
Yea that should be a nice touch!
That’s how I’ve done it too!
Yes thank you for addressing the rake edge on top of paper and drip edge under. Theres something else that is supper common is having the drip too tight to the fascia. Technically it shouldn't even touch the fascia because during slow rain conditions it will drip down the fascia board. Also it's much easier for your gutter installer to work and not have to bend or what I see far too often notch the drip.
You are welcome. I’m glad you found value in watching my video. Yes how everything goes together on overhang seems to be a mystery to most people. Stay tuned!
That is true. It is a common mistake to push it tight to the facia board.
How would you do aluminium fascia with wooden drip edge 1x2 . How do you wrap that
You answered my question on the rake edge thank you very much
You are welcome Richard!
Nice, short n sweet. Thank You!
Thanks for taking the time to make this video helps out a lot!
You are welcome! Glad I could help. Thanks for watching!
tighter nicer cuts next time, looks good but better with no gaps. some homeowners sure find something like that to complain about. I run into them a lot. damn perfectionist homeowners don't understand it ain't gonna hurt but they still complain. so I'm just saying no gaps next time. but of course new construction it won't matter because it will all be complete before they even see it being installed😊 take care and your explaining was Excellent for some fellas out there trying to install metal 👍🏻
Very helpful as all your roofing videos are! 🇬🇧
So at 4:15 I noticed you have 2 pieces coming together at the peak. I ran into this before and found that cutting a short piece 1 ft x 1 ft, notching the front to match the roof pitch, and just bending the top side will provide protection for that area from ice/water etc. a min. of 6" on each half of the roof will ensure water does not run into the gap where the two drip edges meet at the peak. Even making one side longer you can cut your pitch angle and bend 6 inches over the peak and on top of the opposite piece.
Thank you Josh . Great job .
Do you have to put a metal fascia? Can you use just paint on the fascia board?
Do you put anything on the facia board after so water doesn't hit directly on the wood? We are reparing an old shed and we dont have facia, we were just going to attach the drip edge to the sheathing, would that be okay too?
Very well explained. Thank you sir! 😊
Thank you Charlie!
So you put the drip edge in what do you do to cover the wood you leave it there or do you put a fascia underneath the drip edge
I bet that builder paints his fascia boards. Everything about that job screams cheap-cheap.
What goes over the facia board?
Good video. My gutter guy wants me to use aluminum gutter apron, but will I have to hand nail aluminum nails instead of coil roofing nails?
Shouldn't have to hang aluminum any different than steel. The aluminum will not rust. Nor will it corrode as long as its not sitting directly on treated wood. If you have treated wood run paper under it and down to the fascia board. (Avoid it making gutter difficult to get under your apron. Do the homeowner a favor and make sure there is a proper kickout/kink at the bottom to help brake capillary action/siphoning.
Thanks for the explanation.
You are very welcome!
Great video. Thank you. If you were using a Peel and Stick underlayment would you place that over the drip edge on the gable side?
GAF (roofing product manufacturer) says to install drip edge at eaves *before* your ice&water (i.e. peel & stick) underlay, but install the drip edge on the rakes (i.e. gables) *after* your ice&water shield. Here's a GAF video illustrating this nicely: ruclips.net/video/_FdHiX61SIE/видео.html
What about gable trim for the fascia,? Isn't that better then drip edge on a gable ?
Shouldn't there be a half in gap between the drip edge and the fascia board?
Yes, but usually 3/8" is sufficient.
As usual, good video.
Question: I'm about to get a new roof and saw that my neighbor had silicone caulking at the bottom edge of the gable apron all along it's length. Why would a roofer do that as does it need to be sealed at the bottom or not sealed? Also, if you have gutters and there is more than a 2" drop on the length.... do you need a edge that is 2" along the first part, and then an edge that is wider for when there is more than a 2" drop on the 16" lenghth? Thanks, and hope you are still answering your comments.
THEY CALL ME ASPARAGUS
How do you bend a corner with this exact drip edge
You don't. You run separate pieces from each mitre/corner, and cut the faces out of each side so a proper leaf overlaps one over the other. You also leave a tab on the first piece so the second piece has a return for water. Then you seal that lap because you do not want your valley leaking there. Leave the corner loose enough to get fascia and gutter underneath.. You run the valley metal long enough to return the water to your drip edge.
I would think you would have a kicker installed at the upper end of the sub-fascia board as this would provide a spacer for the water to drip away for the actual fascia material. Also, why not cut the drip edge such that the metal is not exposed in the outside corner? You could then weave the angled drip edge into the straight drip edge. Just my thoughts. Thanks for the insight.
How can I repair slightly bent drip edge?
Thanks. I have a flat carport I am redoing..with plywood sheating. I bought some T type drip edge like the one you have here. You showed me how to do the corner where the rake and eave meet. Question...my dripedge came in 5 ft lengths....As far as joining where they overlap, any suggestions? I think I saw one video where the guy made a cut, on another...just tapped them together...thanks
Where they overlap, you literally just slide the one over the other about an inch. It’s easy to do!
Part of the piece he cut off at the corner some people fold under the other piece and its look much more professional
What about final trim boards, how do they go up?
Are use metal facia. If you’re not familiar it’s super thin metal that slides under the drip edge and goes over the soffit
Drip would need to cover the final trim, if not ready to do just use a small piece to space appropriate
My trailor has no gutters. And roof doesn't overhang walls. How do I but up siding to facia to drip edge.
Gutter apron.
I'm having to replace the existing drip edge installed about five years ago when the house was built. Unfortunately the wafer board decking did not match up well on the edge and the existing is coming off, resulting in a water leak behind my guttering. I'm hesitant to roll the shingles back far enough to allow nailing by hand, and my nail guns don't shoot roofing nails. Can I use deck or drywall screws or some type of adhesive ?
No you can’t use drywall screws or adhesive especially on the first course of shingles. Your first course is important for wind uplift. That’s why there’s starter course, drip edge and bull all at the very beginning of the roof and along the rake. You can hand nail them being that your only doing about two courses. Use a flat bar to raise your shingles enough without damaging them and a cats paw to remove the existing nails.
Sounds to me like there is no ice and water barrier, you need to remove 30” of shingles as I&W is 36” wide and install that where ever you have gutters. Make sure of the pitch of the roof decking is over the fascia board for runoff before installing the ice and water then the drip edge before tying in new shingles. Lots of videos to show you the process - good luck…best regards
Thank you 😊👍
You are welcome Joe!
So drip edge and rake edge are the same material?
Correct! My shingle video shows more details on that. Hope it helps!
I just bought a house, has new shingles and drip edges only on the sections seen from the street. Whoever installed it didn't finish the rest of the house. How do I proceed to add the missing drip edges once the roof is done?
Where does your gutter go in reference to drip edge? Below bottom or behind drip edge as it is not nailed on face? Won’t water go behind gutter unless drip edge extends into gutter?
I think it's either or here. If you use a drip edge you usually don't use a gutter. The drip edge replaces a gutter for sheds and such. I've never seen both.
great video man! thanks a ton!
Thanks Crystal!
Well done 👏 ✔️
Doesn’t the water and ice shield go on top instead of the roofing paper?
Thank you for great information!
Thank you!
Also I am trying to figure...is the reason the drip edge is installed OVER the underlayment on the rake edge because of wind blowing water under the rake edge? Because if there is water coming from anywhere else..you have a problem anyway right...thanks.
You can put the underlayment over or under the drip edge. Either way it will be fine. I’ve seen and done both ways.
@@TheExcellentLaborer Thanks good to know. I will put underlayment first so drip edge will help hold it down at the roof edges.
Any tips or tricks to installing drip edge if your roof has already been shingled?
I have never ran into that issue. I think the best thing to do would take the shingles off the edges and install the drip edge. A lot of work but I really don’t see any way around it. You almost have to have drip edge to protect the overhang.
@@TheExcellentLaborer I guess that's what I get for trusting poor contractors instead of learning and doing it myself 🤦♂️
I have done drip edge on an existing roof, it’s certainly possible but is not easy ! Not knowing the pitch and access to what your dealing with I can state what I did: you’ll need a flat bar and hammer, repairs are better with hand tools. Also if there is ice and water on the eaves and rake makes a difference too, or if there is a starter course. Anyway, one of my situations had ice and water on the eaves, no starters anywhere!
So install of drip edge on the eaves/ fascia was not bad, going up the rake I had to carefully pull nails up to the ridge trying not to break the tar seals. I was able to do that and since there wasn’t a starter up the rake I installed the drip edge then used black jack(tar) when reseating the shingles. I haven’t had a call back and I had done that years ago, hope the helps- good luck
Is it necessary to install rake edges if your installing a metal roof?
I’m about a year late but yeah, when installing a metal roof you install eve drip edge first, then your rake edge metal, and finish off with cap metal after prep your ready for panels
Very usefull. Thx!
Thank you for watching!
What is best way to flash around that connection point where sub-fascia ties to the exterior wall?
That's where soffit and siding goes. Your J installs there and receives you soffit pieces. Then your siding J butts up to the soffit. Some people run siding before the soffit and the widths of the soffit J front and back look uniform. But its a bitch to remove siding when they nail in the top peice and that nail gets buried. Always think about how repairs will work before installation.
Very helpful
Good video. Well done.
For a low slope patio cover, (.5" per foot) what is the best method for adhering fiber reinforce rolled roofing to the drip edge. The mastic I used previously let loose after a number of years, causing rain water to wick back and then under the drip edge. I'm not sure the polyurethane I purchase will adhere any better to the tar shingle roll roofing material.
I really thought this was an excellent video, thanks!!
Thanks! I’m glad it was helpful for you. Stay tuned!
good video!!
Thanks a lot Darren! I’m glad you liked it
Very nice!!
Thank you! Cheers!
Thank you
You're welcome
No ice or water membrane?
the SUBFACIA ? is that a 2x6 ?
Yes it’s 2x6
@@TheExcellentLaborer Thanks for Reply - Good Video BTW
Thanks you sir!
You are welcome!
Put some gable flashing too 😊
True!
Awesome video - worth a comment :0
Thanks for watching!
Is drip edge optional or required?
Drip edge is required. You have to have it So the facia board does not rot
@@TheExcellentLaborer Thank you.
@@eye2heaven you are welcome!
Isn't there supposed to be a gap between the drip edge and the fascia board? I've been told that water follows a path along the drip edge and will make its way to the fascia board. If there was a gap, the water could not make it to the board. Once rain slows up, the water stops shooting off of the roof and it starts slowly washing down over everything. During this phase is when the water is able to travel along the drip edge and make contact with the fascia board. The claim is the fascia board will rot out much sooner with the drip edge touching it.
Now we got chipmunks narrating it at the end lol
Seems a bit close to the fascia board
There has to be a better way to turn the corner without slicing the drip edge where it's visible (and caulking). Looks terrible and the caulk never holds up.
Don't use drip edge on gutters only rakes. use gutter apron on eves with gutters
Ocupo trabajo no tiene
Paper got more wrinkles than my grandmas asscheeks🤣😭😭
D-metal installed as drip edge is tragic. Returned your water right to the fascia board. Its bad enough you riddle the bottom perimeter of the roof with unsealed holes. But you also ran tar paper that wrinkled. But, hey, you got paid for it. So there is that.
Love that shit at the end
Thanks! You are one of the few that make it you the end and that is awesome!
Thank you Tommy Lee Jones!
😂 That’s a first
Bro where’s the ice shield
It ain’t a low pitch roof under a 4/12. He said it was on a 7. My area don’t need it 👍🏻 everywhere is different though
👍
Thanks for watching!
That kind of drip edge he is using sucks due to water retention the drops follow the drip edge all the way to the fascia board unless it is pulled away from the house half inch
If you could only see what my hired guy did to my roof you would put your head in the sand. He has totally wrecked my roof and as a woman theres no way i can absorb the cost to fix it . I’ll have to remove everything and do it over. I’m wrecked over the whole situation.
That's what happens when you hire crack heads
Drip is DRIP not rake. It is a different flashing. You continually obscure the difference ...What if you run gutter. You want drip (NOT RAKE) into gutter.
drip edge on the rake, gutter apron where there are gutters.
Alright your underlayment job doesnt look too great. Also, that is possibly the worst style drip ive ever seen. If the bottom edge of your drip is making contact with the facia then its defeating the purpose. It should be hugging the facia and then the last 1/4" or so should dog leg out with a little flange that is not making contact. Also, those snips are for cutting flat stock, and quite frankly they're garbage. Get you a 3 pack of WISS red yellow green (right handed cut, center cut, left handed cut) also a true roofer does a miter cut on the corners. What your presenting in this video technically works, but its not something id use as a tutorial.. But hey at least your working with your hands and getting it done. Most people dont get that far so kudos on that front
🌚✨👌🏾
You're so cute
Well thank you...
what's a rake edge?