Strut bearing replacement
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- Опубликовано: 29 сен 2024
- Just bought a spring compressor to do this job.
only special tool necessary here and pretty much the same method on all vehicles.
The diagnosis of bad strut bearings can be done trough several symptoms observation :
-while getting out of a curve difficulty for the steering to come back centered alone
-difficulties to turn the steering wheel while parked
-once all front end lifted, difficulty to turn manually the wheels both directions
-noises from the hood sides compartment while cruising or running on a bump
You don't need to compress the spring that much (dangerous)...just enough to turn the top mount. Also, don't stand above or in the way of that top mount should it fly off (or something fails) and spring releases. Seems like you are not being careful enough. Thing could release and fly right into your face.
The top mount didn't want to move under this specific tension.
I've tried.
The impact is weak...it looks like it's a huge compression,but not that much.
I try to not stay in line with the spring,yes,it's dangerous i know.
michaelovitch
".it looks like it's a huge compression,but not that much."
Shyeah, RIGHT !
John Doh
It's not huge,the compression is normal.
The impact gun was really tired.
The spring must be compressed to be able to remove the shock,it' s designed like that.
On my car i had to compress it that much like this guy did because if i had loosened and removed strut mount nut while the spring wasn't compressed fully, the spring woulda pushed strut mount away and i wouldn't be able to put it back on the shock because the bolt is so short and even with a totally compressed spring it just slightly exits the strut mount top.
@Tricko -- In all the other videos I have never seen this level of compression. It looks like he the top did not loosen forcing him to compress the spring more. Perhaps he could have positioned the spring compressors differently so as not to have to compress he spring so much.
I removed the tie rod several weeks ago and was tight but it falled down like that.
I have tried previously to put the tie rod back in but it was twisting when i tried to bolt it so i used a jack to keep pressure after at least 10 real minutes trying to bolt it in every way possible.
sometimes you have to be dumb a good moment before to find a clever method : )
@spelunkerd
The cups where the bearing is sat make those noises.
Only when the front end is lifted.
I've checked carefully those parts several times on two tear down
No cracks ,wear ,deformation or anything. = /
it's just the rubber wich is noisy it must rub a bit when there is no load on it
Bravo ! You've performed a great service for all. Perfect example of how NOT to use a coil spring compressor......SMFH
in EVERY single way
John Doh
Can you explain ?
michaelovitch
"in EVERY single way"
Sooner than later carelessness bites back. This video in particular is the epitome of the word "carelessness". If you have to ask why, then you really should NOT be F'n around with an item that can take fingers off .....or worse. You mishandled both the tool and workpiece in every way you could possibly. Now if you were just doing this in your own driveway all by yourself, well hey; That's YOUR problem. Unfortunately now you've posted this up here for all to see and some dimwit will do exactly as you have and get possibly seriously injured.
John Doh
There are no a lot of methods to compress a spring.
Using hand tools is one of them,and having to put the hands on the spring is the direct consequence.
Except avoiding to grab the spring on one of its extremities and manipulating it without being careful i don't understand what you could do to avoid danger during this job.
I think i didn't commit a mistake here.
Thanks : )
You are lucky,here a complete strut is expensive and its OEM
no monroe quickstrut for this old model.
The cheapest parts aftermarket : 150 for a set of shocks+120 for springs+100 for the bearings and plates+15 for the boots+the oem washers, and things under the plates you don't find elsewhere.
it would be around 200 per side...
I'm happy if it helped you.
Thanks to you : )
Spring compressors are cheap bought or rented.
You need to be careful however if you want to do this yourself.
Great job. Thanks for filming this. I don't have the spring compressors so I may pay someone to do this on my car. Thanks again!
Call me a mad man, but I just recently took my struts off (I have a 2014 mustang and I do 10k mile checkups) and with the car lifted, I heard some noise from the strut bearings. I dropped the struts, dropped the spring, and checked out the bearing. It was packed FULL of dirt and sand paper grease. I clean everything thoroughly and repack the beads into their guides with new grease, all clean. I’ve done this for years with my trucks too. It functions like brand new and I don’t see why people buy new bearings unless their used one is crushed in some way
Why mad man ?
It's the proper way to do, unless they are pitted,mostly because of rust or damaged by impacts because of car stunts lol
you did good : )
the ones i change here were from 1990,and on a manual rack,so you can feel the difference after instaling new ones : )
i replaced the steering column bearings too,it improved comfort pretty well : )
If the shock absorber in the strut is worn out it's a good idea,
Does it have been changed yet ?
Most of the time struts can last 60 000 miles.
If there is no leak on it and way less than this mileage keep it.
Otherwise if a mechanic do the job it's better to do the strut with the bearing.
Most of the time they are changed together because they wear out together and in about the same time
it's less expensive that to have to remove again the whole strut a bit later
The noise is just a bushing : )
Wow, tha fastest strut replacement ever seen,he did it in 15 minutes, by him self while to my two brothers and I it took us more than one hour to do just one,
It's edited,so faster than in real life : )
But with air tools and some habit,you can do it in this time, yes.
I'm not that far,if i just do it without looking at all the parts to be sure they are ok.
The important is the fact you did it yourself with your brothers.
You know how to do it and it was cheap : )
Liked and subscribed I wont be would've could've and should've-ing you.Easy to follow and you saved your mom a ton of money great work.No music no blah blah blah this is the kind of video i like when i am looking into fixing something.
+PIGLETTWTERRETS
Thank you : )
+PIGLETTWTERRETS and no rust ;)
yes : )
-while getting out of a curve difficulty for the steering to come back centered alone
-difficulties to turn the steering wheel while parked
-once all front end lifted, difficulty to turn manually the wheels both directions
-noises from the hood sides compartment while cruising or running on a bump
I was scared to see how far you compressed that spring. Could have compressed half as much and still got that top nut loose from the mount. You also put your hand between the compressed spring and the strut mount...you hand would be gone if spring compressor failed. Other than that, made sense to me, thanks.
No,i've tried.
I had to compress it so much,and even like that there was some tension on the strut bolt : (
I agree for the hand, it was realy dumb !
Mark Goodpett omg that was insane scary, so lucky that it didn’t slip and hit him!!! He would be dead or seriously hurt!!
A V twin cylinders with 2x 10 liters twin air tanks.
It's a very little capacity but big volume good pressure.
i can run an air impact wrench easily.
i bought it used.
it was used to spray cement on wall by a house builder.
There are vids of it on m channel if you want.
I didn't change them because they were in an unknown condition till this.
The handling was ok.
New shocks do not collapse,you can see that in the video of their replacement.
old shocks however collapse....
Quick struts are very expensive here.and do not exist for this car.
It was not possible to compress one inch or two and hope to remove the shock's nut safely.
The last coil have enough tension if not compressed to make you think twice before loosening the top nut.
Moreover i need zero tension on the last coil to allow the shock nut to grab when remounting.
I agree with the pressure here and i don't like that but i had no choice.
Don't underestimate yourself, boss, you did a good job, not everybody can do this! I was fearing for that CV boot, though! LOL! Also, I was wondering why you hadn't taken advantage of having the whole assembly out to replace you strut, but you already answered that question to vikskywalker!
Very nice video :) helped a great lot for my Honda City :)
Thank you very much !
I'm happy it was helpful for you : )
Squeaky chingadera
You're right !
That's why i replace them few weeks later ,i have a vid if you want : )
Yes the struts were worn out. : )
I have a video of their replacement if you want.
lol one shot hazards.....
i'm stupid sometimes (often).
This steering rod was stupier than me ,she was rotating so i couldn't tighten the nut....
Thanks ! : )
the bottle jack is a smart idea
Merci beaucoup.
It was easy to understand.
*****
Thanks à toi : )
I'm happy to read that !
thanks for this very informative video... awesomeness! Helped me with my struts!
Thank you.
it's quite a good thing to reéd that. : )
thanks michael that was great
Thank you : )
excellent video thanks
: )
Great demo Thanks!
Thank you ! : )
after replacing the strut bearing_ you swiveled the rotar and still had a squeaky noise. What was it and what did you do to eliminate the noise
You are lucky.
Here it was not far from 30 euros...
Thanks ! : )
perfect video.thanks
Thank you !
Good video, but don't re-install all the bolts with an impact. I know most mechanics do, but it isn't right. Torque them. I hate trying to break free lugs turned down with an impact on the side of the road!
No es por criticar pero veo que te expones mucho a un accidente, gracias por tomarte tu tiempo para hacer un video
Gracais,entiendo.
What kind of compressor are you using?
hola muy bueno el video.....quiero pedirles un favor si me pueden explicar como desmontar el motor de arranque...desde ya muchas gracias......
Sounds like you need new Balljoints too
thx, helped alot!
Yeah ! : )
Thank you !
Never release clams until shoch is fully mounted at top-- one mistake after another
dude the two washers that are spinning around in between the jaws belong on the bolt that you are tightening to act as a bearing surface so less drag on the long bolt
: )
I know,i' ve reinstalled them properly since. thank you.
I don't even know why i didn't see that when i bought them...maybe i disassembled it between and did that mistake i don't remember...
hey cool you got it
I watched this to know if i can do this myself , but after watching this i think i ll let the mechanic do it for me and the job looks tough for a first timer , anyways i suppose we have to do wheel alignments after this, right?
worldpeace32
YOU CAN DO IT !
: )
No,no need to align them,you only touched to the suspension,not geometry of the front end.
If you had settings for caster,it would be different,yes,but not here : )
michaelovitch Thanks man, but first I need to buy the spring compressor, and that air compressor sure comes in handy, makes the job a lot more faster and easier
hahaha !
Thank you : )
Is it just me or is that strut gone. He pulls it up by hand after he replaces strut bearing.
nice , thx .
thanks for vidio
just wondering, when do you know the shock is compressed enough?
It's enough compressed when you are able to feel some slack between the strut plate (at the top) or the bottom spring seat on the bottom, and the spring.
The spring pressure is equal to zero on the strut assembly ,so you can remove the top components( plate bearing) without seeing them being ejected when you loosen the shock's nut.
a little bit of pressure is acceptable,but not much.
you don't want to see parts flying everywhere.
Bravo!!!
Merci : )
What made that squawking sound at 14:39?
that Strut is totally dead
Yes !
The video change the bearing , not the strut
nice wrok
Thank you : )
Heart was in my fucking mouth, watching that
It's necessary to compress that much here.
The coils on those springs are quite widely separated at full lenght and requiers that much to be compressed enough to allow to unbolt the strut's nut.
It's maybe dangerous but not stupid.
It's how it has to be done and i can't fix that.
Maybe you have a special trick to help me ?
Well produced vid, thanks. Worth pointing out that the washers on the spring compressors should be under the bolt heads not flapping about doing nothing. Also met a mech today that did his apprenticeship with a Ford UK mechanic in the 90's who lost half his face and nearly his life when a spring 'escaped' from a professional quality floor standing spring compressor (he didn't put the restraint chain on it). The guy that was telling me had similar happen to him in 2019. Spring hit him in the side of the face and ended up thru workshop window, much blood, lost two teeth and two weeks off work...
I kinda scared of that loaded spring...
WHOLLY SHIT..................wow. You got balls of platinum.......... mixed with a whole lotta wrecklessness.
I dunno, maybe im just a bitch. I was shaking while handling compressed springs in clamps, just like yours.......and I only compressed my springs just enough to free up tension on the top mount. Bonkers bro.
Good video thou......I think.
On this specific car :
The shock nuts are fully tighten down the shock thread no torque,just completly tighten till the end.
The three little bolts on the top of the struts used to attach it to the body are hand tight. (it's 20 nm..)
The bottom ones attaching the strut to the knuckle are quite big and require a specific torque (i believe it was 150 nm )
The wheel bolts are 125 nm for steel wheels and 100 nm for alloy (wich is softer)
I am obliged to compress them like that otherwise i can't remove the shock.
the tension would be too important on the spring.
If you look carefully when i install the new shock the shock barelly go through the plate and bearing to allow me to bolt it while it's completely extended.
Quite dumb and dangerous but i had no choice.
it would have been better if i hooked the last coil but it was difficult because of the plate/bearing.
Your comment it's relevant and thanks for that. : )
A twin cylinder oil lubricated.
Don't look for a big tank,moreover if mostly you use air tools.
The most important is flow/pressure.
your compressor should be able to keep on while you use your tools quite intensively.
big tanks are good for painters wich need a well regulated flow without interruption.
For air tools you need a quite big pressure but if the tank is tiny a compressor kicking on often it's not a problem.
Mine has a good flow and a tiny tank (40 liters).
The bearing is against a plate with rubber on it.
As there is no big load on the assembly, the parts rub together and are noisy.
I have checked all the other front end's components ,no play.
The point here when i steer was to see if it was easy compared to before.
It was really easy to steer by hand while not with old parts.
While driving the wheels self centered alone very easily at the xit of a curb even if the is a tiny caster because of the manual steering rack.
shake them too : if they are worn out they may have some play that you can feel.
you may will find nothing abnormal because there will have no load on the bearings when the car is lifted.
the better thing is to check the bearing itself,you need to remove and dismantle the strut......
In my case i saw a very big difference on the self centering of the wheels while i got out of a curve.
before new bearings the wheels didn't came back centered alone easily.
The cv boot nearly got dead = ) ,i use a protection now to avoid a hole in it.
I didn't know in wich shape were the shocks till removed the bearings.
When i compressed the car by hand it was not so bad,but once removed there was a significant wear and dissymmetry between the front ones.
So i changed them,but later.
Your comment was nice,thank you : )
Yes the shock was dead.
Changed a bit later.
i was not able to catch the last coil with the compressor.,so, to be sure the spring was not going to project the bearing and the plate on the moon i had to compress the spring quite well
I did double work yes.
I learn a bit everyday ; )
: )
the wheels are torqued.120nm
i didn't show that (i don't know why).
I wouldn't use the impact on somebody else's car to bolt them.
Like you wrote it can be difficult to change a tire on the side of the road.
Thank you : )
I will show that next time.
Yes the strut is bad.
The goal was the bearing at this time.
Once i saw the strut was bad i changed it few weeks later.
There is a video of it if you want.
It was a repair,a real one,on a unknown condition car.
I compress the spring by hand using two ratchets one on each rod. It takes a few min to compress. It scares me to see how much you have compressed the springs, usually with half as much compression there is no remaining force on the strut top nut. The spring in the video must be in tremendous compression, hopefully the compressor tool doesn't give up.
I also read on a forum that using an impact gun on the compressing tool can cause it to fail, but I don't remember how or why. Just careful, great video.
I agree thats some huge comprestion it can be fatal
Royale with cheese that is fine commenting but did you upload a video to assist help. If not, then what good purpose do you serve.
Royale with cheese I just use a ratchet strap. seems to do the job fine
Yes you are right, but even the brand new ones were slow to expand alone.
I made vids where i change the shocks too
i needed to pull on it to be able to screw the nut because it wasn't fully expanded.
@hp11208
you're right !
it's better to keep it horizontal , at least you don't loose the head if something bad happen..
i "needed" to show to the camera this nut so i hold the strut upright !
It would be ugly for your hears lol
I'm French,so i would sound like a retarded otter trying to speak Chinese.
I'm not very chatty anyway : )
I could, i may will try a day.
only check your bushings for a not symetrical wear and do not change a tie rod without measuring its length before to replace it.
Otherwise alignment is not affected.
They are polyamide gloves with a coating of rubber on the inside.
you do not sweat in it,but liquids can go through like the oil.
they are thin,you have a good prehension.
Only if the strut is way too rusted ,broken bent or if the shock absorber is dead.
if it's a cartridge inside just change the shock absorber if it's worn out : )
Not all the brands/cars manufacturers use this type of nut.
My volvo do not have one,this car neither.
I think i never seen one here on a tie rod lol
Sorry,i don't understand the meaning of speedy.
I changed the strut a bit later.
I made a video if you want to see that. : )
people always have a big mouth...like its wrong this way..not like that...but i dont see them doing a video and showing it...everybody has his own way of doing things aslong as it gets same result...nice video..man...now i know what to check.
: )
Thank you !
i agree about the method,as long it's not dangerous for anyone : )
Joel Cruz dude, calm down, everyone has an opinion. It's the Internet, what do you expect.
Compressing the upper ones was not enough.
Those springs have few coils but they expand a lot : /
that whole shock needed replacing
conundrum conundrum where is your video doing this job
google user what a total waste of time. dude, Fire yourself for being so dangerous with CRAZY compression! pointless video!
It's just a really weak impact wrench,not a crazy compression.
It was.
i couldn't remove the shock otherwise because of the pressure of the spring.
Watched the whole thing for no reason. Nice video.
Thank you
: )
Me too. LOL. No, actually, I have a front-end clunk in my Evo 9 that nobody has yet been able to diagnose. Gonna take it to the people who designed the springs i'm running and see if they can't figure it out. Local hack has been throwing parts at it left and right but that damn clunk never goes away. Cool spring compression clamps. I'd never seen such a compact solution, most of the one's i've seen are big machines sitting on the floor. Perfect for a shade tree mechanic.
Had the same thing on my Galant, after a long search it was a wishbone. An old brakesystem can do the annoying clunk aswell
It's a good thing , this job do not worth $475,even if the parts aren't cheap.
michaelovitch: good video. I'm glad you recognize the danger errors that others have pointed out. One bit of advice if I may, when you have the assembly out of the car, take it inside with a bench vise and lock the lower part of the strut in. Watching that spring assembly bouncing around on the ground makes me EXTREMELY nervous, especially with those hook clamps. With that much pressure on those hooks, it would only take a couple of good sharp blows to make them go boom. Unfortunately a friend learned that lesson the hard way.
But again, good job on the video. I think people need to remember that these are not official instructional videos, but more of a "video idea" of what is involved.
Also: If you are going that far into your car and you know your struts are old (not you personally, but for others reading this), just replace them then. The same thing with the bearings... if you are replacing your struts, take the extra 15 minutes and install new bearings. Since this is such a dangerous job, why not make sure all your parts are new so you do NOT have to go back in and do it again??
Yes, for the first part of your comment.
But i had no vice fixed on a bench at this time,and still not yet,so i did it on the floor.
I work outside, i have no garage but a parking spot/front yard.
As you know,parts cost money and this car is used everyday and i since i'm not the user i can't tell what need or not need to be changed till i see and touch the car or test drive it.
In this case shocks were a certainty.
Strut bearings came next and the steering column's bearings next (it's a manual rack and it made a huge difference : )
Here i did the job several times for the front end,it's not a problem for me it's a job for my mom : ) but yes i agree on the method it would be a waste to do it again and again because of an incomplete repair or overhaul in case of a situation needing efficiency or with commercial constraints.
Yes.
but the spring must sit right in the strut assembly,like the stock one.
Don't forget springs are used according to a specific car weight ,dampening effects from the shock etc...
the car you use them from should be really similar and the same type fwd or rwd otherwise you will have a crappy handling.
Thanks !
No for the alignment because you do not touch to the alignments parameters.
Struts are just bolted.
Just be careful to bolt the 2 side the same way if the holes are a bit oblong.
Push them at the max in the engine direction before to tighten.
Alignment is to check if you change or modify a set up on camber ,caster or toe in to have a good and symetrical set up
A tie rod ,inner tie rod ,tie rod end,adjustable strut are involved only in this.
Worn out bushings modify the alignment too
They are wear parts, like you said and should be changed with the shocks but you can check them first to see if the bearing race is not marked by the balls,repack it after a good cleaning and reuse them.
Most of the time they are kaput.
I would say it's a part that wear out like a tie rod : the conditions of use and environment of use make it wear more or less fast.
The wd40 do not like me anymore.
We had an argue earlier and since, he is only showing me his back.
He is in its "you see me rollin'" period i guess...
Yes about the compressor,it's quite dangerous,but i'm not dumb enough yet to put my fingers where i'm sure they will be potato mashed.
Yes i didn't use the clamps,it's not good and i should and will use them.
Yes i do not always hold things in place successfully.
That's normal,that why i have so many fingers,to keep trying : )
It's just the rubber around the washer wich is just above the bearing on the strut assembly.
It's squeaky because it's a bit dry on surface.
The part is still good,no craks,no deformation.
It's noisy only when in the air otherwise no noise : )
haha me and my buddy did a similar job where we had to compress the spring, we just used 2 heavy duty c clamps, not sure I would do it that way again haha. I usually just buy quick struts, everything is new and it cuts the time of the job substantially.
lol
i think i wouldn't even try the C clamps..
We don't have quick struts here,and complete struts are very very expensive when you buy them as complete units at the dealer : (
Hi.
With all the parts you changed yet, i would go for the strut bearings.
Like you described under ericthecarguy's video too it's squeaking when you it a bump or when you brake in both directions or during turns.
So it's directly related with compression or expansion of the spring.
Lift the front end in the air and steer the wheels by hand.
if you have some resistance or strange noises coming from the upper part of the strut you certainly found the problem.
@spelunkerd
They are too expensive for me too.
i've bought those two for 25 euros.
i don't use them everyday so it's enough for my occasional amateurish use...but i keep the eyes wide open and the hand on the center coil the most i can.
the bearings were toasted as hell and the steering wheel very difficult to turn (it's a manual rack) my mom had difficulties and even me too...moreover the steering column's bearings were shot too.
now it's easy and precise nearly like brand new.
These coil springs can break and in my experience they do break. If you have your fingers between the coils while the spring is compressed (more than usual comprssion) and the spring breaks, the remaining coils might cut your fingers off. Just a thought.
Yes,it could be ugly.
bloody sushis everywhere...
I think it's one of the mostly potentially dangerous maintenance operation on a car.
Sometimes i find broken spring ends next to the sidewalk,they are really sharp.
The steel is really hard and snap very clean.
Thanks ! : )
Sometimes the springs are not easy to work on,only few coils and really spaced or a lot of coils and barely the space to use the tool with it.
Not easy and potentially dangerous but no choice....
I know a guy who used steel wire to keep it compressed....i don't know if he still has his head on.
wow you scare me, tossing that spring around like that while they are compressed. Whooo...
As long as the clamps do not break, you can move the springs quite normally.
what an idiot.....
michaelovitch hey man good job no cussing no talking no worrying and just getting it done, I believe in manhandling the work and not letting it manhandled you,these jackasses are idiots who may know what they are talking about safety but we know how to get it done and getting our hands dirty, unlike those little pansies and their lotion soft hands good job on the video
Danny Martinez well said. Couldn’t agree more.
he he !
it's the worst number in this country : )
Si,es necesario aqui , soy un tonto de vez en cuando...
A specific automotive tool.
It' s called a spring compressor.
It's cheap, around 30$ in your country.
It's enough dor its own car work.
You have to be careful with it : there is a big tension in the cars springs.
Really good video! Thanks for taking the time to upload...I may just buy the loaded strut for mine
Nice, great video. You make it awfully compelling to buy some air tools. Though as a side note, your strut looked a little worn you should have replaced that while you were at it!
+free8704
Thanks !
I replaced the shock a bit later,seeing,like you, it was tired here : )
The bearing i've replaced in this video is a ball bearing too.
There are steel balls in a plastic crown to keep them spaced.
This crown with the bearings inside is caught in the two steel dishes you can see.
The dishes are the upper and lower parts of the race(where the balls can roll).
All the weight is supported on those few balls.
That's why the bearing suffer (the race exactly) and wear out.
@scatlip
Thanks !
yeah i squeezed quite a bit lol
the coils are big and well spaced, i wanted to not have tension anymore on the cup before to remove the nut.
i felt it better this way here : )
I replaced the shock a bit later because it was necessary.
The condition was unknown, the bearings were the main problem.
I did a vid if you want to look at.
Complete struts are really expensive compared to shocks only. : (
lol.
i've changed the struts too few months later, they were original, 22 years old 140 000 kms
You can see the video if you want. : )
Thank you for the nice appreciation ! : )
That's right for the camera it's quite greasy sometimes i try to touch it with clean hands,i use a lot of rags....
About the plate i don't think it's a real problem,everybody can see it in the street
It's an old car and on youtube i don't think peoples will want to make researchs to take it lol