Atari 1040STF Restoration Part 2: Retrobrighting
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- Опубликовано: 6 фев 2025
- Continuing the Atari 1040STF refurb I started in the last video ( • Atari 1040STF Restorat... ). In this episode, I do restoration work on the keyboard and retrobright the case parts and the keycaps.
Tools used (affiliate links):
Contact cleaner Teslanol T6 Oszillin: kit.co/janbeta...
The hydrogen peroxide cream I used (12%/40 vol from other brands will work, too):
DE: amzn.to/2QgBJGd
The liquid hydrogen peroxide solution (other brands will work):
DE: amzn.to/35XBFll
Full spectrum grow light: kit.co/janbeta...
The UHU Plast plastic glue:
DE: amzn.to/35X4pus
UK:amzn.to/2PVdXAn
US: Not available
3M Rubber Feet:
US: amzn.to/34Uec3c
UK: amzn.to/34QH3oU
DE: amzn.to/2MIjDvV
PCBWay who kindly sponsor some of my videos:
www.pcbway.com
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Music: "Fride", "Doorsteps" & "8-Bit Wannabe" by Focus 10 / user-993847645 + Music from Holiday Lemmings '94 on the Amiga
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Equipment and tools I use are listed here: kit.co/janbeta (some links are affiliate links)
If you find this video helpful and/or entertaining please like, share, subscribe and/or consider a donation!
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Thanks!
#JanBeta #Atari #1040STF
Sit back, relax and watch JAN BETA! Merry Christmas to the Retro-Computing-Family!!! :-) Greetings, Doc64!
Thanks! Hope you had a lovely Xmas Doc! :)
Lovely restoration. You've really nailed the retrobright tools and techniques.
And I love the irony of Paula doing the Xmas Lemmings music for the end credits! AMIGAAAAH!
Thanks! I couldn't resist using the Amiga tune. One of the Focus 10 tunes (doorsteps) is actually also an Amiga mod file. ;)
It came out really well! Happy 2020! Yes, a lot of the STF came with a single sided drive! My cousin had an ST when they first came out and he had an external double sided drive to get around the issue with the latest games being released. He was super excited to show me Outrun - LOL!!!! At the time I was impressed!
This rubber dome under Return key is missing by default. After opening my first ST keyboard, I was looking it for some time, but now I know it is missing in every ST keyboard, and there's no point of looking for it on my carpet or under the desk ;)
I won't let my head cut off for it, but STf had always double sided disk drive, only the first external drives for the original ST were single sided.
It is worth to protect the badge with Kapton tape (or a good office tape) cut to the edges, before retrobrighting or using aggressive detergents. I have destroyed a badge on my 65XE during a chemical cleaning.
Not sure about the 1040STf, but my 520 STFM has a single sided internal drive. I bought it in early 1987. One of these days I will install a double sided. :)
@@Steve_R my 520 STFM came with the single sided drive which I upgraded to a double sided one.
@@gibbo9089 I have an Atari external double sided drive that I could swap for the internal one but the eject button is a little different, so a case mod or drive mod would be in order. About a year or so after I got the computer I upgraded the memory to 1 meg. The motherboard was silk-screened for another 512K, so it was a simple matter of adding sockets, chips, and bypass caps. In the day, that extra 512K made a big difference.
Yes, one of the carbon contacts remained unpopulated. Not sure if that was apparent from the video. There was one more missing on my keyboard so I needed to replace that.
Some other commenters also have pointed out that all 1040s had double sided drives (I think I saw two R/W heads in mine, too, but didn't pay too much attention). I will investigate.
I never had a badge react to peroxide as of yet. But it makes sense to be careful, obviously. Thanks for the warning!
@@JanBeta That's definitely a double-sided drive you have there. In the single-sided ones, the upper arm is a plastic triangle with a circular felt pad on the end.
Happy christmas Jan and all retro thinkerers out there
Thanks Robert, hope you had a wonderful Xmas! :)
The motherboard and keyboard PCB layouts and assembly methods are beautiful work by Atari.
Yes! Definitely a really nice and straightforward design.
Always great to see the retrobright processes that people do all over the world, always a different way to do it. I love that you have so many thin's placed around that you can find like easter eggs of past or future projects, saw the Amstrad logo in the box there near the retrobright box. Good as always, see you next year Jan and on stream when I can.
Haha, thanks, yeah, the lab is a complete mess at the moment because I'm tinkering with so many things at once. The Amstrad box will definitely make an appearance in a future video soon. ;)
Merry Christmas, Jan. Always good to have a new video from you. I especially like that you solder properly, you're the only RUclipsr I've ever seen crop leads before soldering. :)
Thanks! Hope you had a good Xmas. :)
My 1040ST needs some love and attention like this. Case is cracked in a few places, whole thing is cheese yellow. It still works, surprisingly, as it's been modded to hell and back by the original owner. Has a 'PC-Ditto' installed, which essentially converts the machine into an IBM PC-compatible. All the onboard system RAM had been hacked off and replaced with slots of 30-pin SIMM sticks, daughter boards and ribbon cables just flung around all over the place.
Yours came out beautifully, great work as always. I'm surprised you only had one broken screw standoff, the plastic in STs tends to be super brittle and those things break like crazy.
I found these are really well built electronically. Mostly, only the power supplies develop some issues over the years. The ICs and PCBs are really well made I think. The plastic felt pretty sturdy still, I guess there's a lot of different mixes and qualities around for these.
When cleaning that keyboard I lost a rubber for the key like that. Luckily a pc keyboard had a rubber similar to that and I solved it. Great video. Merry Christmas and Happy Holidays.
I saw similar rubber pieces in an elderly Apple keyboard, too. Seems to be a common part. Hope you had a great Xmas! :)
The thing looks gorgeous in the end. It's like a completely different device.
Hi Jan, nice video as always. Merry Christmas 🎄 and happy new year 🎆 to you.
Thanks Michael! Hope you had a good Xmas. :)
Merry Christmas Jan lovely video..
Thanks! Hope you had a lovely Christmas, too.
Happy New Year, great video as always. One of my absolute favourite channels! :)
that turned out very nice. awesome work!
Merry Christmas! 🎄
Thanks! Hope you had a wonderful Xmas! :)
Frohe Weihnachten! Meinen ersten ST bekam ich auch zu Weihnachten, vor 32 Jahren!
Vielen Dank! Ich hoffe, du hattest schöne Weihnachten (auch wenn es 2019 vermutlich keinen neuen ST gab... ;))!
@@JanBeta Haha, das nicht. Aber mein alter 1040ST ist immer noch hier und funktionstüchtig.
That's a good result and another fine video. Lovely of PCB Way to send those ornaments as well.
Thanks for another year of excellent videos Jan. Enjoy your holidays and we will see you again in 2020!
Thanks! Hope you had great holidays. See you in 2020! :)
A new video from Jan makes a nice retrocomputer Christmas present! BTW those rubber domes look like the same ones that were used in some VIC-20 keyboards... and they are just so mushy feeling when compared to proper springs. Blech! :(
At any rate, I hope your Christmas was very merry, and may your channel have continued success into the New Year!
Thanks! Interesting that the VIC-20 used similar domes. I saw a similar construction in an elderly Apple keyboard a while ago (had to disassemble because I spilled a drink... errrm). No idea if those were the exact same size, though. ;) Hope you had a good Xmas and 2020 is going to treat you well. :)
Yes! 40:45 - I think you're the first person I've found that does this like me! I've done this "left to click, then right to install" thing forever for the exact same reason. But none of the people I work with get it...
I've been doing it since I was a kid. My father taught me (probably while I was watching him tinkering with his C64). :)
Merry Christmas Jan, and as always great video :)
Thanks Josip! Hope you had a wonderful Xmas!
Nice job on the case. Looks great! Looking forward to see how you get the floppy drive working.
Thanks! Some commenters pointed out that the 1040 series only shipped with double density drives so there goes that theory (at least very likely so)...
Merry Christmas and thank you for this Christmas present 😊
Oh, thank you! Hope you had a wonderful Xmas! :)
Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year Jan!
Thanks! Hope you had great holidays and 2020 is going to treat you well.
Great video Jan. Happy New year, 2020! We're living in the sci-fi future.
Thanks Wim! Yes, the future is now! :D
That was surprising! I never knew before that the mouse and joystick ports were part of the keyboard and not the motherboard...
Yes, it's an interesting design for sure. Having the ports on the bottom side of the computer is a bit weird compared to other machines of the era though...
Nice one! I was lacking anything interesting to watch on Christmas day, and low and behold you made another video.... Perfect timing my man... Thank you! Also... Merry Christmas Jan..
Oh, thank you! Hope you had an awesome Xmas (and enjoyed the video). ;)
lovely restoration!
Thank you!
I recently got an Atari STFM. One thing I've made recently for mine is a simple pair of ribbon cables DB9M-DB9F so I don't have to go under to plug in joysticks, and my DB9->PS2->USb dongle chain for my mouse actually fits.
Yes, that makes sense. No idea why they made the decision to put the ports on the bottom.
Hi Jan, I think you don't need to worry about the black rubber feet, because both my Atari 1040STf have black rubber feet and they haven't been restored or modified. So it came with black rubber feet from the factory.
yes, I can confirm this. My 520STM, 1040STF and also the Falcon 030 came with black rubber feet. So Jan is as close to the Original as possible. 😁
I used the same 3M rubber feet for my Ataris: flic.kr/p/2g7pJuz
On my 520 I even have to use TWO of them each corner, because the squared frame with type label very slightly touches the ground (as on many STs), so the rubber feet don't have enough contact to the ground. Two of them and now everything is perfect! 😉
Oh, glad to hear that. I'm not really an Atari guy (at least I wasn't back in the day) so I couldn't tell. :)
Love the Day of the Tentacle mug!
Yes! My favorite mug. :)
There's meant to be 1 dome missing. I made the same mistake when i was working on my ST. The key in question has 2 contacts and it is held in place by the key itself so you don't need the 2nd dome.
Yes, one of the carbon contacts remained unpopulated. Not sure if that was apparent from the video. There was one more missing on my keyboard so I needed to replace that.
What happens when you add the second contact dome to the return key?
Merry xmas Jan ! Tks for another entertaining video!
Thanks Boca! Hope you had a good Xmas. :)
For removing adhesives just try paraffin (lamp oil). Its just the best and easiest way to remove glue and grease plus it appears to be gentle with plastics. ( I always try it inside the case before applying it in the front!).
Nice! Happy new year!
Thanks! Happy 2020 to you, too. :)
Thank You, Jan for your great Work.
I wish you merry Christmas and a good start in the New Year 2020!
Thanks Wolfy! Same to you. :)
Jan, if you check out Odd Tinkering, he uses a 12% liquid for retro bright and his results are always really nice. Plus, you don't have to mess about with shrink wrap and rubbing the cream every 20 mins. Maybe it is worth a try sometime! Happy Christmas!
after seeing the 8 bit guy and the osborne, I'd NEVER use that cream. ugggg. Actually the method I like the most is the solar bleaching. But obviously that's not going to work in winter. lol If I do anything to my C64, that would be the method I'd use.
Yes, I definitely need to get a large enough container to try that method on larger case parts. Unfortunately I don't have a lot of room (or sun) so I didn't do that yet. Works very well for smaller cases and keys though.
Yeah, the cream is the most economical way to do it, but you have to be really diligent which Jan was (especially with Atari ST cases which are more susceptible to bloching). I myself, am not. I use the clear and add it to water because i get distracted too easily 😁.
Or the best way is from day 1 of purchasing a new machine back in the day is to:
1) always keep out of direct sunlight,
2) never have it set up in a room using UV lighting,
3) keep it covered up when not using,
4) keep smokers smoke away from it,
5) never store it in a basement or atic where the temperatures go from one extreme to the other (keep at good room temperature all year round).
This is why I believe my Amiga A500 has never yellowed in the slightest or had a repair done to it since purchasing it back in 1989! :-)
Lovely computer now after that Retrobrighting. I really like your method of doing that. I think I will try the same way, but use the sun - we have that most of the time here in Tucson!
Thanks! Yes, sun supposedly works a lot faster. I see the 8-bit guy doing it all the time in Texas, I usually don't have enough sun here (nor a place to safely leave my beloved old computers outside). ;)
@@JanBeta I have a spare A500 case now that I have my Checkmate 1500+. I think I will do a comparison on it, 1/2 Sunbright the other half traditional retrobright. That might be interesting. (The case is broken, so no big loss)
Watching late Christmas day and nice to see Nice work!!!
Thanks! Hope you had a wonderful Xmas! :)
Thankfully I live in the southeastern US(western part of South Carolina), and in the late spring & summer time here it can be over 100F(38C), and I just use a clear plastic tub with a clear locking lid, liquid peroxide, oxyclean powder in a 40% to 60% hot water mix to cover all the parts, and leave it on my back concrete patio for most of the day which gets full sun all day, only going out to shake it up, and rotate them every couple of hours, and that works for me, but I guess for colder climates that don't get as much sun/heat this looks like a really great method, and I'll keep it in mind for Winter months if I'm working on something for someone else who needs it in a hurry. 👍
Nice! Yeah, getting a decent amount of sunlight definitely poses a problem here outside of Summertime. Also, I don't really have a good spot to leave my beloved machines unattended for a longer period of time. The lamp works reasonably well, I guess it would be a lot faster with real sunlight. :)
@@JanBeta I guess that is one of the advantages of living Ina small rural area mostly of retired people, with a low overall crime rate.
I remember thinking about buying at ST but finally deciding on an Amiga 1000 which was a little more expensive but had better graphics and other things. I had a lot of fun with the Amiga, I finally gave it away in 2000. In retrospect I probably ought to have kept it.
Yes, the Amigas were a tad more advanced in some ways. I like the straightforward design of the ST a lot, though. :)
Turned out great look like you have a very nice refurbished ST. Merry Xmas!
Thanks! Hope you had a good Xmas, too. :)
Ich bin in Sachen Retrobrighting ganz deiner Meinung und nutze im Prinzip genau deine Taktik, Cream für die Gehäuseteile und Liquid für die Tasten. Auch die Kartons habe uch so gebastelt, nur für das Seifenbad nutze ich so ein Fettlöser vom Aldi und kein Cillit Bang 😏. Guten Rutsch ins neue Jahr und hofrentlich viele, neue alte und dank deiner Pflege wieder glückliche weil perfekt restaurierte Retro Computer w0nsche ich dir.
Oh, gut zu hören, dass du mit ähnlicher Methode auch Erfolg hast. Ich habe so einiges probiert, bin aber irgendwie immer wieder bei dieser Vorgehensweise gelandet. Wünsche dir auch einen guten Rutsch!
For sticker residue I use a product called Goo-B-gone. It works great!
Oh, interesting. Didn't know about that stuff. I saw some specialized sprays and stuff but they were way more expensive than WD-40 and alcohol so I just used that. ;)
@@JanBeta Goo-gone is really great at breaking down the adhesives on most labels/stickers. It's not very expensive, and is available in most hardware stores.
I believe there was a company that made replacement key domes for the keyboards for a while in the 90s - Called "keytoppers" or something. They were mainly marketed at improving the feel of the keyboard (which wasn't a high point of the ST), but maybe they could help for spares?
Aww yes! I finally got round to watching part 1, love how you fitted the Meanwell power supply! She is a beauty with her new Gotek and those Atari MIDI ports are begging you to plug in an instrument/synth and load up something like Cubase for some music making action!
Yes, definitely will be doing something with MIDI. :D
Interesting use of the Microsoft authorized rertro-brighting box, Cheers
I thought I'd showcase that box for giggles. ;)
Merry Christmas Jan!
Thanks! Hope you had an awesome Xmas, too. :)
My 1040stf also had that same key cap down, thought it was broken too but maybe it is for an extra key in a different region? idk
There is another rubber dome missing from the PCB, no idea if the second missing one also was missing on purpose? Strange construction in any case.
Looks absolutely amazing! 😉
Thanks Gaz! :)
Thanks for good content through the year of 2019.
Oh, thank you! Hope you had a good Xmas and 2020 is going to treat you well. :)
@@JanBeta Thanks... 🤘
Merry Christmas, Jan!
Thanks Golan, hope you had a nice Xmas! :)
Hi Jan Beta, really love your channel! And I'm really eager to start with the retrobrighting process on my C64 but I'm still a bit hesitant to do so because of the health related warnings all over the internet.
Is this 12% h2o2 really that potent? How strong is the smell of the substance? Are the neighbors going to be ill when someone uses it in a densely populated area? Or can the odor be compared with cleaning vinegar?
I see video's where people are advising this instead of regular bleach for cleaning so it can't be that bad can it?
I would love to find a video on YT about retrobrighting focusing on this aspect as I can imagine that this is what's holding off people from actually going ahead with it...
Thanks for all your videos, they are superb!
edit: OK. Me being curious, I just went for it and bought all necessary equipment and started with the C64 keys. The h2o2 doesn't smell at all, doesn't sting your eyes, I did wear rubber gloves. The keys could be divided in three levels of yellowness and I stuck them on pieces of carton board using double sided tape. Then I used the cream version of the h2o2 and put the carton boards into zip bags. Those I placed in a plastic container, laid out with allu foil and placed the plant grow led device on top of it. I placed two pieces of carton board at each side to close the container off. Outside temperature 23.5 C, inside around 30. I worked wonders. It took two hours. Really cool stuff. The disk drive is next.
Frohe Weihnachten Jan und ein guten rutsch!
Vielen Dank! Same to you. ;)
Merry Christmas, Jan! I always enjoy your restore videos, but you sounded a little unsure this time around. Make sure you're taking care of yourself as much as you're taking care of these retro machines!
Oh, I was a bit unnerved because shooting the video took so long (had some technical issues - you can hear it by the sound being slightly crappy in the first half), maybe that translated into the video. I'm quite happy with how the retrobrighting went though. :) Hope you had an awesome Xmas! :)
@@JanBeta Indeed I did! Especially with great content like this. No worries, I didn't even notice the audio issues and the case looks amazing! Great work as always!
Good work :) new life for this great Atari :D
Thanks! :)
Merry Christmas!
Thanks Stefan, hope you had an awesome Xmas! :)
OMG! Love the DotT Purple Tentacle mug!!!
hey jan.danke für deine clips!.ich hab gerade auch so einen problemfall hier.. ;-) da helfen deine clips ungemein.dankeschön! lg und alles gute..
Freut mich, dass dir die Videos helfen! Ist ja auch mehr oder weniger der Sinn der Sache (mal abgesehen davon, dass ich die Kisten meistens selbst benutzen will, nachdem ich sie restauriert habe… 😅).
@@JanBeta danke für die antwort..PS: kann man eigentlich eine buchse vom (a500) ranlöten und nimmt ein amiga 500 netzteil..? zum testen, ob da noch mehr im eimer ist ? lg aus chemnitz und weiterso!...
9:38 I’ve done this very thing recently. Same model too!
I've used WD40 for removing adhesive things and I've noticed that letting it soak longer generally makes it more effective. Paper type labels the WD40 soaks into quickly, mylar labels take a lot longer. generally, it slides off after soaking long enough. I don't make videos, so sometimes I let it soak for days. FYI
Oh, thanks for the tip. Will try to let it soak a bit longer on stubborn labels next time. :)
The WD-40 you get in the US is different in composition from the one you get in germany.
Do they have Goo Gone in Germany? That stuff is amazing for stickers/adhesive residue.
@@ManChicken not that specific brand, but there are glue removers available.
Is it as good as UB-40?
I was unaware it was different. Are you aware if that's true for in general in Europe?
@@ericcooley9407 In Wikipedia search "WD-40" and in the formulation section, there they describe the German variation.
I still have my STE and an STFM and the FM is seriously yellowed like this, really do want to get it looking nice again :) Makes me wonder if the plastic was changed on the later models which causes them not to yellow as much as the STF/FM range
I found that the plastics vary a lot even with the same models. I guess they often had slightly different mixes so the yellowing is different for different runs. On some white C64C keyboards, you even have a kind of checkerboard pattern because some of the keys yellow a lot while others don't at all. Quite interesting.
hi jan, kannste mir bitte sagen, was das fürn reiniger für potis ist den du da nimmst? danke :)
ich müsst nämlich mal meine g27 pedale putzen.. warum nicht auch die potis dann reinigen :)
Ist in der Videobeschreibung verlinkt. Teslanol T6 Oszillin. Kann ich tatsächlich nur wärmstens empfehlen für Potis aller Art. :)
This doesn’t make the plastic extremely brittle just as is the case when leaving plastics in the sun?
In my experience, the plastic doesn't get brittle with this method. At least not noticeably. Your mileage may vary with different plastics though, obviously.
Jan Beta ... Thanks! Most RUclips stars don’t reply. I RRREALLY appreciate that you did! Have a great weekend!
Wonderful Video as Always.
Noticed the taped together Amstrad MP-1 (as you know I love everything Amstrad) in a box @21:40.
If you want a weird side project for a video, I think you can make them into a composite output. Can't remember where I read that... So I might be making it up.
Thanks! The MP-1 is definitely going to make an appearance sometime soon. Don't know if a composite mod makes sense (I guess it should be pretty straightforward) but I'll definitely have a look at the power supply part of it.
How long did the retrobright process take? It must have taken hours and hours.
Yes, it takes a couple of hours. I wasn't very specific in the video because your mileage may vary a lot.
Have you considered using food grade or hydroponic peroxide instead? As a liquid I've found it far more consistent and lacking streaking.
Yes, but I lack a large enough container to try on large case parts. Definitely prevents streaking if you submerge things completely.
I need to watch your 1st video on this computer for the disk drive problems. I have these points:
• Make sure your mech is rated for Double Density 720K disks.
• If you have nothing but High Density mechs, there's a chip needing updated. I forget which one.
Some commenters pointed out that the 1040 series only came out with DD drives so maybe the theory is wrong. Will still investigate, thanks for the hints!
Maybe it would have been more fitting to have used the music from the Atari ST version of Holiday Lemmings, it would not have sounded as good but seeing as you restored an Atari ST 🙂
I couldn't resist sneaking in an Amiga soundtrack for giggles. Actually, one of Focus 10's tracks (doorsteps) is an Amiga mod, too, back from his days in the demo scene. :)
Moin moin Jan! Did you fix the drive yet? Grüss!
Jan, I need help with an Atari ST game in Hatari and was hoping you would have an idea. Wizard's Crown, and games like it, require that you make formatted disks from within the game, and Hatari fails when I try that. Do you have any idea how to get around the disk formatting issue?
Hey Brian, unfortunately I have never really used Hatari much so I can't help you. Sorry!
@@JanBeta Thanks for the response Jan. Love your videos. :)
REALLY makes me wish I hadn't gotten rid of my 1040ST and monitor after I built my first PC.
Yeah, so many great machines were sold or just ended up in a dumpster. :/
As they say on the RCR Podcast, we're all buying back our childhood 😁
I’m just about to do my keys and was wondering, do you use the peroxide neat or diluted?
These are pre-mixed solutions that comes in the bottles he showed in the video.
összerakás előtt érdemes lett volna a joy portokat újra beforrasztani, rendszerint megrepednek a forrasztásaik
There should be no rubber dome in that location (second rod for return key). I had the same in my STE. And feet should be black :)
Merry xmas /Frohe Weihnachten Jan
Thanks! Hope you had a wonderful Xmas! :)
Jan welche Lampe ist das, die zum Bleichen benutzt?
Perfect monitors
Why are the Z and Y keys in opposite places?
German keyboard layout! ;)
10:24 the Escape key tried to live up to its name...
Haha, yes. :D
Can the cpus on them Ataris be upgraded I ask because I've never used or own one before.
They use a 68000 just like the Amiga so the accelerator boards that fit in the CPU socket should work, they will probably run faster than stock speeds so it could break some games
Yes, i think.
But only with 68020 and 68030 Acceleratorboards, ... hard to find one
Yes, the TF530 Amiga accelerator works with STs, too. Don't know if there has been a lot of testing but I saw videos of it being used in Ataris.
There were some accelerators available. Specifically look for the "T16" and (rarely available, I think) "T28" accelerators. which added a higher clocked CPU with some caches. There were also some cacheless upgrade cards, but they were pretty worthless because the bus would slow them down most of the time. There was also a PAK68/3 which added a 68030 to it. Typically you'd have to change cases if you wanted one of these boards, as they were typically a bit big for the standard case.
@@amirpourghoureiyan1637 The 68k in the STs was a HMOS variant, which makes some problems if you try to swap out a higher speed CMOS 68000. CMOS 68ks use a lower signal voltage than the HMOS variant, I think, so it's difficult to interface a newer CMOS chip with the rest of the chipset.
I asume the Y key and the Z key is miss placed
Hi Jan, please do not use the cream peroxide on case parts. It's the worst method, just try out the 12% liquid peroxide submerge methode also on bigger parts. It works like a charm if you put it in a bin into sunlight and water temperature around 50°C ... It's much better and less aggressive on the environment. And the results are much much better... I've tried this method now on about three ATARI ST and it was perfect.
The peroxide method worked very well for me for larger parts. I don't really have a big enough container to submerge a larger case into liquid peroxide so I kind of have to go with this method. The liquid stuff is the better choice, I agree, but it takes more room (and a lot more peroxide) to do for larger pieces unfortunately.
@@JanBeta yes, you'll need more room and more liquide peroxide. But it's really cheap (5 Liter at Amazon for around 12-14€). A transparent bin can be found at IKEA. The point is, it's working the way you did. But only, if it's done properly. But lots of people are watching you and they not always have the same luck and knowledge as you did. So they maybe will fail - you could mention it, you have the "force" :)
nice job Jan :O)
The 1040STf came with a double sided floppy drive. The 520 STf came with a single sided one. Theoretically if it's the original drive, it's double sided.
Thanks, didn't know that but it makes sense. I will still have a look at the disk drive, maybe I can fix it. :)
@@JanBeta It's written in my Atari 520 STf manual (but in french :p). From experience (and selling those back in the day) the 520 STf is the only Atari 16bits computer to feature a single sided drivw. the 520 ST/STe computers both had the newer, double sided, double density drives. It was painful because very few games were single sided (for one) and the double sided drives available had a different eject button that wouldn't fit the 520 STf casing and I never found a 1040 STf double sided drive. My 520 STf got butchered because of it :P
I also use a UV light to retrobright. You can't use the sun after dark/bad weather, and I don't like leaving my retro gear outside. Jan have you tried it without the box and cellophane? I used to do it that way, but I don't think the hassle is worth it. I get pretty good results. Maybe a little foil to sit on, to spread the light, but that's it. Video here: ruclips.net/video/e7h9kMDbVyg/видео.html
I found that in spots without foil, the cream dried after some hours and left streaking/marbling effects. That's why I always go with the foil. Ideally, you'd probably use liquid peroxide for the case parts, too, but I don't have a large enough container for that yet.
The floppies on the ST's and Amigas were notoriously bad, and they really are a pain to fix. What makes it worse is that you can't really replace them because they were physically different then PC drives or really any other drive. You can make other drives work, but they'll never look right... If you can get the original to work, that's great.. but if not, i personally wouldn't bother considering the state of floppies these days. After endless attempts to fix mine (with Adrian repeatedly telling me to not bother), I ended up 3d printing a mount for a gotek and installed that on mine instead... especially considering NONE of my ST floppies had survived the 30 year storage anyway 😁
I agree, my plan is to try to fix the drive one last time and then basically give up and use a Gotek. I have a working disk drive in my Mega ST in case I need to read disks but for everything else the Gotek is probably the more reasonable solution. And it doesn't look as bad as hacking a PC drive into the ST I think. :)
@@JanBeta Agreed. btw, i love the power supply replacement. I recapped mine which did seem to fix my weird issues (to my surprise, since recapping had never fixed anything for me before), but i don't have faith in it long term. Your method looks awesome. Thanks!
We used to routinely replace Atari disk drives with PC ones.
@@patbutete1722 did you modify the case?
@@brianv2871 Of cause! No big deal back then. The early models were a bit of a faff mind you. Nothing a hacksaw and a file couldn't sort out! The machines I worked on mostly running Cubase off the floppy .Therefore the drives took a severe hammering. PC drives much more robust therefore a no brainer press ganging those into service. They were working machines for the synth boys who couldn't afford a real Moog!..A 1meg Atari + Monochrome ST124 monitor..£300.00...Serious money back in the early 1990s.
Fröliche weihnachten Jan! Well done with the Atari, but I have to be honest, you have a dark sense of humour. Putting an Atari ST in a Microsoft authorised refurbished box? Atari is using GEM by Digital Research, you know the company that made the CP/M OS, and founded by a guy who thought that the birthday of his wife was more important than to talk with the guys from IBM about an OS for their PC's? IBM couldn't wait and talked with Bill Gates (who copied a lot of CP/M things for MS DOS) and the rest is history. But putting a thing which is running a Digital Research OS in a Microsoft box is dark Jan very very dark :P
Theo Buunermond Actually, Bill Gates just bought the rights to DOS. He didn't do a whole lot to develop it.
Haha, didn't think of that. Or did I? ;) Hope you had a good Xmas. :)
Jan,48 hours for oxigen perioxide
hi has any one done any scsi mod's i had a 44MB scsi drive pluged in to my atari
Oh, I haven't tinkered with ACSI yet but I probably will do something in that vein with my Mega ST sometime.
hu: Gyárilag nincs benne az a gumi membrán. nem kell pótolni
what is the use??????
It is a lot cleaner now and it is going to look a lot better for a long time.
@@JanBeta but can you play to Red dead redemption 2 with it?
43:13 Not true. I have over a dozen Atari ST computers and NONE have white feet. They are all black. So you are good!
So far I'm know is this not real retro brightening. To do it right you have to use hydrooxygen in combination with UV-light.
It's unfortunate he didn't take the other keyboard totally apart because then he woulda seen it was missing on that too and figured out it was normal. :-(
Oh, I totally realized that one of the carbon contacts had no rubber thingy and figured that that must be for another keyboard layout or something because it didn't have a plunger in that position. There actually was another one missing so transplanting it made sense. ;)
@@JanBeta It's all good. I think everyone who's taken a 520/1040 ST(e) or Falcon030 keyboard apart was a little confused the first time. ;-)
Hey Jan, don't waste too much time on investigating whether the disk drive is single or double sided. 1040s were only shipped with double sided drives. Only 260s and 520 with external SF354 drives and some 520 STFMs with internal drives were shipped with single sided FDDs.
Ah, that makes sense. Thanks for pointing that out.
"Let's go retrobrite, up to to the whitest white!"
Have you bleached your Atari today? :)
I thought exactly the same thing.
I hope that was a ZX plectrum 🤣