Retrobrighting worked well ... until it didn't (Atari ST 520)
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- Опубликовано: 6 фев 2025
- It's time to finally get this almost-trashed Atari ST booting off the external floppy drive. Also, it's time to try to improve the cosmetic look of this very yellowed machine. Will this result in a disaster?
Part 1: • This Atari was nearly ...
Part 2: • I figured out what is ...
Part 3: This part!
Part 4: • Finally, a reliable in...
--- Video Links
Display Turntable I use for retrobrighting:
amzn.to/3zXIIZw
Indoor retrobrite process using blue light:
• A new way to fix yello...
• Indoor Retrobrite Foll...
Using a heat gun to fix sun damaged plastic:
• Using a Heat Gun to g...
Adrian's Digital Basement ][ (Second Channel)
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Support the channel on Patreon:
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-- Tools
Deoxit D5:
amzn.to/2VvOKy1
store.caig.com/...
O-Ring Pick Set: (I use these to lift chips off boards)
amzn.to/3a9x54J
Elenco Electronics LP-560 Logic Probe:
amzn.to/2VrT5lW
Hakko FR301 Desoldering Iron:
amzn.to/2ye6xC0
Rigol DS1054Z Four Channel Oscilloscope:
www.rigolna.co...
Head Worn Magnifying Goggles / Dual Lens Flip-In Head Magnifier:
amzn.to/3adRbuy
TL866II Plus Chip Tester and EPROM programmer: (The MiniPro)
amzn.to/2wG4tlP
www.aliexpress...
TS100 Soldering Iron:
amzn.to/2K36dJ5
www.ebay.com/i...
EEVBlog 121GW Multimeter:
www.eevblog.co...
DSLogic Basic Logic Analyzer:
amzn.to/2RDSDQw
www.ebay.com/i...
Magnetic Screw Holder:
amzn.to/3b8LOhG
www.harborfrei...
Universal ZIP sockets: (clones, used on my ZIF-64 test machine)
www.ebay.com/i...
RetroTink 2X Upconverter: (to hook up something like a C64 to HDMI)
www.retrotink.com/
Plato (Clone) Side Cutters: (order five)
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Heat Sinks:
www.aliexpress...
Little squeezy bottles: (available elsewhere too)
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--- Links
My GitHub repository:
github.com/mis...
Commodore Computer Club / Vancouver, WA - Portland, OR - PDX Commodore Users Group
www.commodorec...
--- Instructional videos
My video on damage-free chip removal:
• How to remove chips wi...
--- Music
Intro music and other tracks by:
Nathan Divino
@itsnathandivino
Hey Adrian, it's Richard who donated the 520ST to you. Every time you make a video I want to feel bad that so much work had to go into this, but again, I know this is your thing! I never would have thought that 520 could look like that! I knew it needed retrobrite, and I feel this thing was on the cusp of being a spare parts machine. It's just so cool!
UV-A is what will brighten the plastic like the Sun. I know that it takes a lot longer to get it back to looking good but it's better than adding a bunch of creams and or other junk to the plastic. I sat a Commodore 128 out in the sun for a few days and it really helped. It was extra yellow and I was shocked it turned out as well as it did. I do enjoy all of your videos and I learn something different each time. Keep up the good work!!
Love the idea of using a motorised turntable when retrobriting. Brilliant!
Roto-brighting! :-) That turn table with OxiClean spray was a really simple, elegant, and effective retrobrighting setup.
Ikr
10:13 One thing I don't miss about old mouses is the ball and having to clean it every so often... Opticals are better in all aspects...
Loving this series because the computer I had was an ST-520FM... Bringing back a lot of memories here although I only ran games on mine...
27:37 "8B1" and "5G5" are the date codes. They use Japanese date code format (e.g. 8B1 = 1st week in February 1988), as these chips were made by Ricoh ("-38").
I'd bet a lot of money that the "mystery computer" is an Apple Lisa. It's about the right size and shape, there weren't very many of them made, it's worth enough to auction off.... and honestly, there's not much you can do with it.
From the shape, it looks more like a 20th anniversary Mac.
I think you've got it on the button. Though it could be a Mac SE too from the size....
Yeah. No idea myself. Other than the II series, of which I owned a GS, and used several others, I never paid a lot of attention to the history of them. However, a number of years back I about flipped because someone had two, extra-rare, like dark grey Apple IIs. They where basically IIe computers, but they had extra stuff in them for video overlay output, or something. Basically, a specialty machine. And, I didn't find out about the damn things until they had already taken both of them to the dump, and I went, "Wait, you did WHAT???!!!"
Heck, a quick google search on the things shows "no results", so this might not have just been "rare" but custom made, and flipping unique... Sigh....
my immediate thought as well.
Too narrow, thin and tall to be a LISA.
Too wide to be an SE like someone else said(and they're not particularly rare)
Assuming it is an Apple, I'd guess a TAM as well
"Mouses" *is* the correct plural for a computer pointing device. It helps reduce confusing the device with the creature.
Only three hours in the sun? Wow, what an awesome retrobrite result! 😲👍
I like the motorized turntable, it looks like a nice way to get even exposure to light and it does the job all by itself.
@@LeftoverBeefcake Wondering what speed he used? Even 33 rpm is way faster. 😁
@@TPau65 most likely 16 rpm
One of the things I love about these videos is that things go wrong just like real life. It's part of the journey!
In the first scene, I notice many chips - near your shoulder. But, no chip on your shoulder... (and amazing transformations too. I'm always amazed).
I gave up on retrobrite. Everything I’ve ever done it to is back to yellow again after a couple years… but that cutting the plastic wrap trick was awesome! Finally I won’t be screaming at my plastic wrap after tearing it off. Thanks!
I have NEVER had the "plastic wrap and cream" technique work properly. It ALWAYS marbles / streaks because the light gets bent by the plastic and liquid in a non-uniform fashion.
The red color you're seeing is a result of the UV part of the LED's light making the long chain sulfer compounds fluoresce. Get some neon crayons and look at what they do under it, or light them up outside pointed at a street sign. Street signs are designed to flouresce in daylight to improve their visibility, if you point a white or uv/blue LED at them they no light up to be visible for miles. As you noted, "white" LED's are actually blue/uv with a yellow phosphor over them, they still bleed a bit of UV. Cree T6's for example are... well... don't stare into the sun!
Remember, those blue LED's are basically glorified "black lights", just without the "red bleed" common to the old incandescent ones.
I've never had cream peroxide fail, in fact I have found it to be the most reliable method. The trick is to brush it on evenly, rebrush it periodically and only use natural full sunlight. It works quickly so you do need to keep an eye on it. Artificial lighting has never worked anywhere near as well for me.
@@Gerardus1970 ^ This right here. Even coating and reapply if it dries out. I don't usually even use the plastic wrap.
The submersion method is way more consistent than the cream method. It may be slower, but at least it's evenly bleached.
@@SockyNoob this
I've had no luck with Atari ST and get streaks and marbling like mad. But, it works on, say an 800XL....dunno, just my experience.
Great video. I have an Atari 800, 2x 800xl, and 2x 65xe, 1 600xl, 4x 1050 drives, 1 ST 1040, 1 Atari game machine, and 8x original joy sticks. I got 2 of the 1050 drives to work. And after watching your Atari 800 repairs, will start working on mine. Thank you
I love the 70's towel and funny enough my grandmother had one just like it, I'd love to find one myself one day
Dear Adrian, I always avoid to use cream or spray to have peroxide. They just give an uneven surface result and marble effect. Using liquid peroxide (35%) and submerging the parts under it in a transparent bin gives way much better results. Try it in a small glass jar for the keycaps or the mouse you will be surprised from the improvement. Metal parts must be removed and the process develops bubbles that will float parts. Holding them submerged requires some creativity. There are some videos showing that is also possible to retro-brite cables like the yellow mouse one you have. Just exposing for several days to UV light (look at odd tinkering channel, he has restored several console joystick). It also works for big parts like the top of the Atari. Love your videos
sourcing gallons of 35% peroxide is out of most people's scope.
@@rustblade5021 You don't need gallons, you can still dilute it like 3:1 with water.
I've watched many restoration vids on YT, the peroxide bath with LED lights always seems to work very well.
@@rustblade5021 Wholesalers who supply hairdressing salons have it - and it's not that expensive.
your blue box has no UV spectrum light , this is needed for peroxide based retrobriting this is why you put it into the sun, the same as sunbleaching hair , its the UV spectrum that activates , not heat. you want better results , you need UV led's , coloured ones just dont have it
UV gonna be ionising and knocking down the electrons 💪
Actually, even though uv light does play a role, heat does as well, and very effectively, at least according to this test done by the 8 bit guy m.ruclips.net/video/qZYbchvSUDY/видео.html
@@georgH Of course heat will make the whole atoms knock around and more likely to come into contact and react
@@georgH The 8-bit guy is a bit of an idiot, though.
Wow that retro bright turned out really well...thanks for the video enjoyed it alot!
Heat gun on a black plastic bumper works because it pulls the plasticizer chemical back to the surface. It's typically short-lived, though. It might last longer for a computer case that's kept indoors and doesn't live in direct sunlight like a car.
1985 was a good year. So many members of my family were still alive. I was 13 in 1985 and the movie Godzilla 1985 came to US theaters. Those were the days my we thought they would never end.
A little late to the series. Adrians videos are great for getting the itch back to fix my junk... also good for the background during repairs. The mouse brings back memories... cleaning mouse balls and those stupid little rollers inside that NOBODY cleaned and actually is what needs cleaning! Ahhhh... nostalgic rage.
Interesting timing. I just did a retrobright on a "wedge" Apple ADB mouse just 2 days ago using the same peroxide & plastic wrap method. I placed it in a box lined with aluminum foil and set it out on my balcony (west facing) where it received about 3 hours of direct sun before sunset. Happily, it turned out much like your ST case. :)
St, Jude would be an excellent charity to give to. Nice work on the ST! I actually like the two tone look of the yellow keyboard. Gives it a unique look. ;-)
Yes! St. Jude's Children's Hospital.
I concur St Jude would be an excellent choice.
Last night I was literally thinking to myself "I wonder when Adrian is going to finish that ST?" So happy to see this transformation. For a long time I had a 520STFM and I really wish I'd never sold it. Despite not being as popular as the Amiga I love the ST, it was a really good computer and I'm always happy to see them getting love.
Thank you for the oxi clean tip! Never thought to try it any other way than a big tub with peroxide solution.
Oxiclean and three hours of Oregon sun = miracle!
For the charity, my suggestion is one that helps disadvantaged individuals get technical equipment and resources they may not have otherwise had access to.
I use the same peroxide cream. What I've found is when you end up with an uneven look it's one of 2 things. If the part isn't cleaned well there may still be oils on the part that will hinder the process. I paint the cream on and have found if the coating is uneven with large blobs you can end up with the same result. I always put the parts outside in the sun, nothing else seems to work as fast. Sometimes I don't even bother covering them with plastic if it's not too hot out. It just helps to keep the cream from drying out.
Hi Adrian!
The heat gun on a car bumper method, is only a one way trip. As a hobbyist car detailer, i know what you see are the oils coming out of the plastics. So that is what you see "magically" happening. It's a kind of cheap car dealer method...
I think on old computers the plastic even becomes more brittle!
This process will reverse again after a time outside, but then you will NOT get another chance with a heatgun and will need new bumpers!
There are more permanent things like an Sio2 coating for plastics like Gyeon Trim or Carpro CQuarts but that is protecting it after. Same as your 303 spray, but way longer permanent.
I think retrobright is still the best after repainting.
EnjoyIng your video's for years now👍🏻, all the best from Europe, The Netherlands🙋🏻♂️
Hi, I used to fix Atari ST's in the UK. One thing I actually did to my personal ST was to fit all turn pin sockets as well as replace the MMU and GLUE sockets with Gold plated one's which were much better quality than what Atari fitted. The chip's you will need to keep an eye on (most common failures) will be the MC6850's (Midi and Keyboard interface chips) as well as the WD1770, you can replace they with the WD1772 (which is the HD 1.44Gb variant) and the sound chip YM2149 which also control the Side select and drive select for floppy's which again there is also an equivalent replacement but I can't remember what it was. I would recommend getting a ST Diagnostic cartridge this can show many error's like memory, Spurious interrupt (usually on the STE due to a track breaking under the GSTMCU.
Nice video Adrian! Good idea auctioning of this sought after machine.
A magic eraser and just tap water or a little bit of Windex does wonders for filthy mouse balls! It cleans them right up and makes their shininess disappear /roughens them up a bit to improve traction on the surface and on the rollers. I use this method for all my ball mice.
Well done, man. So much admiration for a really inspiring way of loving 'retro' machines. Thank you for sharing your passion.
Good old 3M tape. They make tapes that hold cars and planes together. I retired from 3M.
The retrobrited grey of the Atari and the yellow keys have a rather attractive early 1970s vibe... I could definitely imagine something similar lurking in the background of a Nixon-era thriller.
You should try heat inside your blue box. It'll speed up the process which means less time for any unwanted bleaching, while still working on the bromine discoloration.
bromide not bromine, 2 different chemicals.. bromines a relaxant for nerves bromide is a fire retardant.....
Sei in gamba Adrian,il case dell'ST sembra nuovo,così si fanno i lavori,bravo
Love your channel man, seriously top level stuff. Really starches that Retro PC itch. Thank you.
Holy crap, oxy clean and a turntable? That is awesome!
I have a 520st + hard drive + floppy + BW and Color monitors, everything in the original box. I still like them a lot, that's why I'd like to donate them to an Atari museum so they can keep it running for many years to come
My mom has diabetes... I read up, on all I could find, to understand the disease.
I understand that some patients will get large sores and amputated limbs, even with the best possible care...
I say help a charity that feels close to home. All charities are deserving.
The transition point of ABS plastic falls around 105°C or 221°F. A good heat gun held at 103°C and slowly raising up until you see the effect take place should give you good results.
The heat gun thing to fix faded plastics has been used for years. They use a blowtorch set up to fix sun faded stadium seats as an industrial example. Depending on the plastics the heat restores the plastics by bringing it to a pre melt state and getting those oils in the plastic back to the surface. But you linger to long and you can melt what you try to fix. Practice a bit on something else you might have around that is sun faded.
@5:49 - Try using WD-40 for any kind of adhesive you're working with, especially on things like the badges or plastics. Let it sit for a minute, and most times, you can take the glue off with your fingernail and minimal effort. Follow that up with some Windex or IPA to remove the residue.
I was instructed to use a mild acetone solution to clean both printer platens and mouse balls. Yes, it is a solvent, and yes it does remove the outer layer of the ball/platen. But it works a treat.
Two things that work well for removing adhesive are WD40 and mineral oil (baby oil). Apply either liberally and let sit for a bit, adhesive usually just rolls right off with a rub of the thumb.
Hack The Hood seems like an appropriate charity for this channel.
It looks like you had a big blob of the peroxide on the mouse buttons. Maybe the UV light didn't penetrate that quite as well as it did elsewhere.
i loved the video specially when you fix the fdd just putting the cable to next conector. love you bro
The uneven thick cream is what causes the marbling. Light doesnt penetrate to the plastic where the cream is applied the thickest. I think it was PeriFractic (Chris Simpson) of Retro Recipes that tested and determined that UV light alone does the trick without chemicals.
The light area on the diskette drive looks like a 9-track tape label, a lot of them were rounded to match the tape reel.
So glad you got it looking good and working again, love the Atari content. You've got to retrobrite those keycaps though. They should be a shade or two lighter than the case.
Yeah it's a hilarious two tone color now! Like stained teeth. Sadly things have not been warm enough to do outdoor retrobrighting -- and it may not happen, so I may just have to re-do my indoor box to make it happen there.
@@adriansdigitalbasement WOW Retr0bright!!?? version 3.11😃.... what happened with the aluminum foil box and the weird looking yellow Philips light bulbs man!!?? 😳 >> ruclips.net/video/cRlAFnhmPlw/видео.html
Haha! I think the first time I opened an Atari mouse, the top poinged off just like that. :) I didn't remember the trick to getting the buttons off though. :)
The redish color might not show because many camera lenses block violet light. Some or other very popular but good channel has a video titled something like, "Why you can't photograph a rainbow," or maybe it's "Why you can't film a rainbow." (I think it might be Tom Scott.) It turns out you can with some cameras, but others block the violet and indigo. Something like that.
The remaining yellow on the mouse is where the thickest peroxide cream was. It looks like the cream just blocked the light. I admit it's easy to make the connection when you watch the finished video. :)
I had a great trackball for the Atari ST. I left it on my desk with a huge west-facing window. Its translucent ball focused the sunlight enough to warp the black plastic chassis inside, trapping the roller shafts. :J My friend loosened it up a bit, but not enough. I've still got it somewhere, and sometimes think of loosening it up some more and hooking the encoders up to a PS/2 mouse board or maybe a microcontroller. One reason I didn't do that years ago is that I was afraid to leave it out again. :J
The keys should be a very light cream. :) The brown legends should be dark, I think, but I'm not quite sure anymore. When my STs were newer, I think I may have had to look closely to make sure they weren't black, but it was a loooong time ago now. In any case, I don't think it'll hurt the style if they're not that dark.
Leaky spray can nozzles = ew! XD It's nice when you can find a compatible nozzle.
Hahaha! Cable in "out". But I wasn't one of the ones screaming at the screen; I didn't notice. XD To be fair, I'm pretty sure the MIDI ports on the same machine are just pass-through.
If GEM programs aren't allowed to change the resolution, that would make sense if the ST was multitasking. Ah! I've got it: GEM was originally developed by Digital Research who sold it with their multitasking Concurrent DOS, so yeah, GEM was designed for multitasking. I expect Atari didn't want to change too much when they ported it, and such restrictions must have been helpful when MiNT was developed.
Fun video! Hodgepodge expected from the subject. Stay healthy, stay safe... don't let my comments drive you crazy! XD I hope they're not...
Local food banks can always use a cash donation to buy fresh produce or meat. The money stays in the community and helps to feed the needy.
The active agent in the bleaching is oxygen liberated from the peroxide. That is what the UV light does, causes the peroxide to rapidly dissociate into water and O2 gas.
The blotches seem to be more common with cream. To test heating how about using an oven? Then you can control the temperature. You can look up the melting point for different types of plastic, and the type is usually on the device (inside) somewhere.
unfortunately, in the 80s these plastics codes were not yet standardized, as there was no one doing recycling of plastic items at this time. It wasn't economically feasible and was assumed that if it was plastic, you'd trash it.
I've tried gently boiling plastic computer keys inside ziplock bags that way and have ended up with quite a few nearly totally melted keys. The heating aspect requires rather sensitive thermometers built into the oven or a separate one that will stand up to melting plastic. Food cooking doesn't usually require such precision, certainly not in real time, so no cheap methods. Nice idea though.
@@squirlmy hmm, well I guess you would either have to experiment or you could do some destructive testing in an inconspicuous place.
I have a feeling the best fix would just be to retrobrite again with 12% liquid peroxide and UV LEDs though, that seems to be the most consistent method.
Some say heat it to 50C but I just use the heat from the LEDs.
The mystery future project is an Apple 1 isn't it? Fits the description perfectly.
Highly doubtful.
Thanks again for a great episode Adrian! Loved it!
Adrian, we don't mind the hodge-podge... Carry on!
Wow! That Oxi-Clean worked great in just three hours in high latitude fall sunlight!
there's a lot of controversy about how much ultraviolet from sunlight does the job, and how much heat (including infrared) is a factor. Basically, any self-appointed expert on retro-brite who pretends to know exactly how it works, doesn't.
@@squirlmy Here's the closest I've seen to a science based treatment of the subject. Keywords to search for since RUclips seems to delete external links more often than not:
Reversible post-exposure yellowing of weathered polymers
James E. Pickett
GE Global Research, 1 Research Circle, Niskayuna, NY 12309, USA
Received 14 November 2003; received in revised form 1 March 2004; accepted 6 March 2004
@@squirlmy On Hackaday:
A DEEP DIVE INTO THE CHEMISTRY OF RETROBRIGHT
by: Dan Maloney
January 23, 2021
YELLOWING: THE PLASTIC EQUIVALENT OF A SUNBURN
by: Bob Baddeley
November 3, 2017
The mouse fingerspots is an interesting point. The case itself was pretty smokey so you know it was a smoker. Maybe the tar is concentrated around the hand, and the oils/whatever that result from smoking sort of seep into the plastic. And that residue is interfering with the retrobrite process. Or maybe retrobrite makes the tar look not yellow but it soon returns to yellow. It'd be interesting to soak it in something that could let any oils diffuse out of the plastic. It'd take a long time and it'd probably be tough to find something that wouldn't also dissolve/diffuse into the plastic.
Eucalyptus oil is great for removing old adhesive residue. Readily available in Australia, not sure if you can get it in North America. Smells great too!!
Honestly filming the screen gives more of an authentic feel as long as it doesn't flicker like crazy.
Very interesting about the retrobrite marble effect and using a heat gun to try and change the outcome. I've had a few Commodore 64 cases that looked absolutely awful, meaning brownish-orange. Retrobrite got it back to looking much better, but blotchy and uneven in a handful of cases. For those that looked like that I ended up getting a paint primer and some RAL-1019 color coded paint and made them look pretty much factory that way. On the next ones I come across with this issue, I'll certainly see what a heat gun does.
The 8-bit guy has a ultra bright method indoor that works quite well. Worth looking at.
You should consider using VM&P Naphtha when removing most adhesives as it will not damage paints or plastics.
'Rubber Roller Restorer' fluid - used extensively in the mailer room, working in the IT dept I'd nab a bottle because it would properly clean the printer rollers and mouse balls making them not just clean, but also grippy like new.
Seems fairly cheap to buy these days, so might be worth a shot.
Wipe mouse with acetone and cloth. Very very light and speed wipe moves and it turns like new.
You know, I tried this on my marbled F keys on my other ST -- and it did help. I'll give it a try in the next part
one problem, acetone stinks. I read on a forum someone comparing the smell to "Nail Polish Remover". lol I didn't have the heart to tell him that nail polish remover IS acetone, often nearly 100% acetone.
I really enjoy mail calls being used in this format.
The tape at 8:43 looks like glazing tape, tape you would use to stick glass to a window sash. You get it in various thicknesses and widths.
I actually have an aftermarket 3.5" floppy drive for my 520ST. They sold an OEM version back in 1985. I think it was basically an IBM 3.5" drive put in a generic case with the correct plug for the ST.
i assume the reason it doesn't last is because the retrobright only treats the outer part of the plastic, the brominated fire retardant continues to bloom to the surface... i wonder how many applications it would take to "use up" all of the fire retardant in the plastic? variation in the plastic composition and amount of bromine could explain why some treatments last much longer than others
For charities... the West Columbia Gorge Humane Society is one of my favorites. It's a no kill animal shelter in Washougal, and is unable to do their charity auction for the 2nd year in a row.
If those IN and OUT are indeed standard Shugart interface, the 'OUT' does not connect to the drive but instead has the weird twist in the wire pairs and only connects to the IN.
Look into a solar-powered turntable. I made one with UV diode LEDs and plastic mirrors. Works like a charm for curing resin prints.
I’ve used packing tape to protect labels like that and have a tip for strategically blocking the sticky side: Put scotch tape on it… sticky side toward sticky side. I used to put tape directly on laptop COAs to keep them from wearing away. I would then trace around with a razor and end up with something very close to perfect lamination.
I bet if you just leave it a couple more weeks, that mouse will look a whole lot better. I'm not convinced it's "over retrobrighting". I think it's probably a combination of different plastics, cigarette smoke and the wear pattern on the buttons.
I agree that it doesn't seem like a RetroBrite failure. I thought, "Oh hey, greasy grubby fingerprints!" My suspicion would be cigarette smoke mixed with 'dirty fingers' for several years. I'd try to clean it with ethyl and/or isopropyl alcohol, then a quick scrub with Simple Green and a soft/med toothbrush, then try to Brite again. Maybe a few rounds of Green and Alcohols first, it depends.
it will eventually change back to grey, its good with the Atari one, you can separate the buttons. I brited a microsoft mouse, looked a lot better, but the buttons hinge splayed out from the heat. Pressing the buttons is, not as responsive as it should be.
For the lighting, it acts differently whether you put peroxide or not because without it, ABS plastic degrades over time (which is an internal chemical reaction) and high-energy light (blue, UV) or heat just accelerates the process.
When you add peroxide (which is H₂O₂), it is broken down by the same light (it's called photolysis) in two HO molecules, very, very reactive oxygen species, that acts on the products of the ABS breakdown and thus make the color disappear (and this process is more intense and faster than the ABS breaking down so it acts more in the "remove yellowing" way)
From all the info I've gathered. (which might be wrong of course !)
That was fun. Good job with the restoration.
At 27:45 freeze frame the chip on the right has bent pins on the upper row left side.
I've only ever had the marbling when retrobriting with the white cream peroxide. I've never had that problem when using the clear liquid.
Goo Gone or WD40 may be good for removing adhesive, but if you can soak it in isopropyl alcohol, it does an even better job to where if you soak it long enough, the adhesive will just slide right off. As for what charity to look at for the proceeds from whatever it is under the 70s towel, may I suggest the Oregon Electric Railway Historical Society?
Right to repair seems fitting to me Adrian!
Adrian, i discovered a while ago that whilst restoring the colour on my purple SGI Indigo2 with peroxide that i got some white oxidation which i recognised as the same as sun damaged plastic in car bumpers and lounger chairs left in the sun, after reading a lot of white scientific papers on the oxidisation of ABS, i experimented with a conditioner and heat, and found that a mix of silicone oil rubbed over and careful heating with a temp controlled soldering reflow gun, set way below the melting temp of ABS, (melt=210-270°C). at around 110-130c, i found several passes with the heat gun and additional coats of oil and then 303, i completely removed the chalk oxide. by coating the plastic in some oil then heat drying in an oven at about 80c for a few hours "conditions" the plastic.. Aromatic solvents attack ABS fyi.
also the 303, create's a barrier not necessarily UV from the sun, but stops the oxygen permeability into the plastic which intern would lead to yellowing. Vegetable oil does the same thing.
the yellow isn't Bromine fire proofing leaching or causing yellow, the yellowing is caused by the Butadiene Rubber Phase that is susceptible to UV photo-degradation and produces chomaphores, or yellowing.
42:57 By the way, you can exit out of YAART by holding the Alt key. No reset required.
Nice!. Thanks Adrian, I tried that on a small section of my C64 that marbled really badly and I am seeing a big improvement. I will take it apart again and try in more. I found that I needed to heat it until you start getting that hot plastic smell (not hitting with heat once I can smell it) and it took the white marbling out from the area. I was thinking I would have to repaint the entire case but not with a little time and effort, I may be able to finish restoring the case.
"Be gentle when you work the pick...". - --Adrian 2021
The case looks so great.
Nice work Adrian
Always good to clean before retro bright anyway. Sometimes the dirt blocks the light and you get dirt shaped dark patches.
I need an “It Freakin’ works” T-shirt.
9:16 I have been Retrobriting my Atari ST computers for over 10 years and I never remove the badge, I simply avoid the badge when I brush on the peroxide solution and if it gets on it just wipe it off with a damp cloth or sponge. Zero issues. Just don't submerge the case with it on.
When I worked on an ST, I found these PLCC sockets to be really unreliable.
It seems to me that the contacts loose some of the spring tension over time.
I took a needle and bent them all very slightly towards the inside of the socket,
and that made good reliable contact again.
PS: The YAART.TOS is actually quite advanced. It doesn't do just a simple read/write test, but performs a subset of the tests that MEMTEST86 does.
19:40 I am told that when talking about the Rodent, the plural of Mouse is mice, but when talking about the computer peripheral, the plural is Mouses.
So when you stop yourself from saying it wrong, you were actually correct the first time, and the correction was wrong.
Don't tell me you've got a NeXT Cube under the towel... You're killing me with the suspense...
I'm thinking it's one of those 20th anniversary Macs.
@@stonent I don't think so. The 20th Anniversary Mac has a concave top. The left and right extremities would be higher than in the middle, while this thing has the middle higher than the edges... Sadly it's neither a NeXT, nor a 20th Anniversary Mac... unless he put something on top of it to throw us off :D:D:D
To small for an all-in-one Performa either....
OMG that would be unbelievable
Any charity that benefits kids would be a good choice, imho. Prescription glasses, hearing aids, prostheses, scholarships, school supplies, clothing, shoes, weather gear appropriate for the season and the area, and so on.
although, I'm concerned that a lot of those charities are little more than tax shelters, and, perhaps more cynically, I don't believe in the "Charity Watchdogs" that are supposed to watch for corruption (as opposed to legitimate administrative expenses). I have a little more faith in animal charities (although not much more)
32:37
Me: "What type of DIN connector do I need?"
ATARI: "Yes."
Can't believe washing spray worked! That's got to be the easiest retrobrite ever!
I know I left a comment not about the pin on the MMU being bent, but the pin on the MMU being contaminated with enamel. The daughter board for the memory upgrade that fits over the MMU jams a pin into the MMU socket. That pin that gets jammed into the socket has one half of it covered in enamel so that it makes contact with the pin on the socket, but not the pin on the chip. If that enamel rubbed off onto the chip, it might be creating an invisible insulating layer on the pin that prevents it from making contact. I might be wrong, but I think it's worth considering.
Reading the Marpet install instructions, it does not say to remove the MMU from the socket at all. It says all pins on the MMU socket adapter go into the gaps between the socket pins and the body of the socket. (Not between the MMU and the socket pins.) I've seen other boards where it wants you to prevent a MMU pin from making contact with the motherboard socket. I assume this is because those don't require modifying the motherboard by removing the CAS lines to the on board RAM.
@@adriansdigitalbasement I see. I had a RAM upgrade for my Atari ST back in the day where the pins in the daughter board that fits over the MMU actually fit between the pins on the MMU and the pins on the MMU socket. And you're right. It was many years ago, but I don't remember having to modify the motherboard near the RAM.
I tend to donate to Autism or Down Syndrome local charities here. The work they do is fantastic and helps provide resources and services for those who need it. Also, with marbling, won't soaking it help with water/peroxide? I though 8 Bit Guy did that once.
You should get some of the good quality GREEN painters tape. It works very well at sealing out liquids, it doesn't damage anything it's stuck to for short periods (less than a few days), and it's very easy to tear and apply. :)
For the gunk you can simply submerge the plastic parts in water with a bit of detergent and wait for 15 minutes, it'll all come out with barely any effort
Hello ! The real key to retrobright with cream without marks and streaks is to brush the cream very regularly every 15 minutes when exposed to the sun. Brush, brush, add some new cream, brush, brus, and brush again. Noneed to cover with film. With this method I don't get marks anymore and all my retrobrighted items look perfect.
At that point, use submersion with liquid peroxide. Way less tedious and guaranteed to have consistent results.
@@SockyNoob I agree, but this requires a full disassembly and an immersion in a great quantity of H2O2 liquid solution. Here in Europe it's now virtually impossible to find liquid peroxide in large quantities, because some people use this to build explosives. Even if you want to buy some very small bottles in a pharmacy, you have to answer some questions on your usage...
@@olivierpericat9224 that's lame. Getting peroxide is super easy here in the US
@@SockyNoob Yes here in Europe it's super restricted since around 2018... But you can easily find some hairdresser cream that works perfectly well (and it smells good!)