Hey Alec, Miguel from the Conch republic, I still have my Calypso VI for over 40 years, diving almost every weekend, still working like day one. Simple and reliable.
You sir are an absolute treasure for the recreational diving community. I got an Aqualung Legend in 2011 and it is great. It has the auto closure device ACD. I got the advanced open water coarse free when I bought it. Thank you for the videos and keep up the great work.
Alec you are a national treasure! If you pass through Australia you may come across a now collectible regulator called Airdive. They are the best regulator in the world, used by professional abalone divers in Australia breathing for thousands of hours harvesting the shellfish, dodging white sharks and without any maintenance. First prize for being the ugliest reg in the world but simple rugged design. I was diving with an ab diver in the 1970's using an Airdive with a split diaphragm. The front rubber cover was removed on the boat, piece of electrical tape applied to the split then down he went to gather another couple thousand $ worth of shellfish.
I know of Air-Dive and how they were an early innovator in scuba. Kevin has Air-Dive catalogues from 1962 onward. I remember every product name started with "SeaBee". Appreciate the story and ugliest reg winner line. A
I agree with your approach and thank you for trying to show truth and let people be aware of the marketing words used by manufacturers. Thanks a lot for that. As you say, we have decide and weight the extra "gold plating" features of premium regs compared to standard regs. However, and correct if I'm wrong, the feature that would help me breath better without any hiccups (no pun intended) at depths of 30 to 50 meters, or at whatever position I could be at, is actually not a leather seat feature. Bur rather a feature similar to vehicle collision warning system or extra horsepower, which is way important than a leather seat.
A venturi assist is a great device for deep divers or bigger divers (like Kevin but I"m not going to mention his name...). Thanks for sharing and watching my friend.
No reason to buy new. I purchased an older model Aqualung Legend with matching factory octo for 250 dollars on craigslist. It had about 25 dives on it but it needed servicing. That was five years ago and with over 300 dives, it's probably the last set of regs I will ever purchase.Dang thing is bulletproof..
Used gear can be a good buy if you know about the model and get it properly serviced as you did. I hear many stories of someone paying $10 for a 'great old' reg that cannot be serviced or fails on a dive. My new and vintage gear is always cared for as my life does depend on it.
The first reg you showed was the regs my wife and i bought S pro jobs A year later we upgraded to MK 25 600 s Scubapro regs and 1st stage The diff as you've said between top range and low-level price-wise Regs All Scubapro The cheaper ones were ni as good in 20 30 meter dives Could have saved a few bob All the best to you and yours matey
I'm new to this and it's the same in every sport or activity. Every trumpet plays, every gun shoots and you can run in any running shoe. This time I will start cheap and let the experience drive the need. Should anything go wrong I will drop the belt. :) Thank you for this video. Also because it was fun to watch.
Thanks. Appreciate very much your videos. Totally agree with you on using regulators produced by proven and established brands. For me I’ve always used ScubaPro’s tried and tested MK25 Evo first stage. The proven ScubaPro second stage S600 I’ve now replaced with a better version: ScubaPro D420.
Scubapro has been around since 1962 so it's a leader in reliable, safe and affordable gear. Glad you like your setup and stick with what you're comfortable with. A
Well I have the scuba pro r190... my dad bought over 20 years ago! It still works great! It's fine tuned, breathes good at depth. .Around the same time he bought me a dacor reg... I can't use the dacor anymore.. I can't get it serviced, and the dacor was a little bit more expensive back then.... but the r190 reg fits my needs... I don't dive much.... so why spend $800 on a reg you only use 1 or 2 trips a year.. But dive shops try to sell you the best gear to make money.. great video and advice!
Each manufacturer sets the recommended service interval (plus kit prices!). However, actual diving should determine when to get it serviced before problems start. In my dive store some divers had full services two times a year as they dove fresh/salt & warm/cold waters on trips and teaching. Compared to the cost of a replacement 1st and 2nd stage, a service is little money for the value. Take care Steven.
I enjoy gear as much as the next guy! With that said I believe training and experience is critical to new divers. I would rather see a new guy with a cheap reg and 50 dives under his belt. I don’t wanna see a guy with a $1,500 reg and 3 dives under his belt. Gear is important but training and experience is king 👑 great video 👍🏻
I also like someone who will dive with what they have rather than the newest thing. Experience is a good teacher and a good gear setup is great comfort.
Hey Alec! Just found your channel and I love it! You are a great teacher and speaker. Love the humor and old-time stories! I am just retiring and hope to do a lot of diving in the future! I will be shopping for a regulator very soon.
I would love to see what is your own scuba gear and talk about it,not as a marketing strategy,but just to know ,based on your extensive experience, why you chose those items , and maybe if you could have changed some of them,let us know why.
Sir You are a treasure of knowledge, hearing you reminds me of my dive instructor (Werner Prietz) My first regulator set I bought is Poseidon back in mid 90s I was doing a lot of Scuba diving then in Europe, later I got a ScubaPro as back up set. My dive buddy's and I was doing a lot of diving then. Deep, cold water, "low visability" compared to Florida. I got quite a few strange looks diving in Florida after that showing up on dive boats with the extra hose for drysuit and DIN attachment regulator. Now I'm trying to get back to diving after a long hiatus from it of 10 plus years. A string of things has and keeps popping up now this Covin 19 😣 Thank you for passing on your knowledge and experience, stay safe and healthy. Respectful Darrell
Thank you Darrell. We all hope to get wet again soon so until then, may I humbly suggest to keep on watching to keep you current and informed before the next dive trip.
My first reg mares axis.... always came out of adjustment from new... got the update kit it changed the threaded seat in second stage. Works excellent.. still use it and goes cold water and ice diving never has let me down. To me it's better than my more expensive regulator.
I've found the newer style Regs in fancy plastics are good for when diving away from home( den/workshop) for long periods ( months). I still buy the older Dacor's, ScubaPro's etc, but nine times out of ten they will have verdigris over the serial number ( often already scratched from being ' cleaned ' with the tip of a screwdriver...). We made oilfields with USD Conshelfs hanging out of our mouths and they're as good today as they were four+ decades ago . BUT fastidious cleaning and DRYING is a must to keep them nice. Particularly for novice/sport divers ( including heavy use), who aren't gear nuts ( seems that's what we are called if we maintain anything these days) the plastics are good.
good video Alec , thanks i was first certified in 1978 and i bough a AMF regulator back then i was lucky enough to get it at a PX on a military base and my cost was 125 dollars which was a fantastic price for the time i want to say the model was a MR2 ? but i’m not positive i dove a lot back then with a bunch of Coastie helicopter pilots and we all had that regulator because thats what the base sold it worked great for many years and dives other than a ripple guage cluster that i installed pressure , Compass , and a blank in it i’m kind of surprised in your video that the pricing hasn’t really gone that far out of proportion to all the other gear over time after high school graduation i used to do a volunteer Scuba Diving Class to other students in my old School for the Physical Education Department and in the mid 1980s i used to tell them that a basic Dive package of equipment would run them about two thousand dollars plus the cost of a Certification class that i highly reccomended of course to stay safe ironically the basis of those classes were based on the United States Navy Charts that they later found were not the best and stopped using i still have my original Padi computation tables that i had teathered to my Boyancy Compensator again another AMF product purchased at the same military base it was a horse collar style and was that high visibility yellow with reflective strips sewn onto it not the prettiest thing ever made for diving but it worked as i went on to wear that for over 250 logged Dives btw i grew up in South Florida only 13 blocks from the beach and about a hour and a half drive to the Florida keys i owned a boat before my first car lol as you can see where my priorities were my high school sweet heart used to call me Fishy Boy because Scuba was my thing oh that regulator is on display at a freinds Bar in which the bar itself has a glass top over a beach sand / diving relics themed presentation in which i donated a few of my Antiques and treasures to i did get a kick out of you telling the trade name for Plastic that old AMF regulator was all Chromed Metal
I just got myself the Apeks MTX-RC with the MTX-C Octo primarily due to the fact that its great in cold water but has the adjustability to be well adapted to any condition. And since I want to get into ice diving I figured why not just go all out.
@@AlecPeirceScuba_SeaHunter Hey Alec, it is pretty overkill for me but yes i did have the extra cash so i just went for it, and this way i have the gear already to branch out to more technical diving. if theres one thing i dont mind paying more for, its the regs. also due to covid 19 rental restrictions my local dive store had some great deals on gear :) oh and im super jealous of your location, would be nice to be close to Tobermory dive sights look awesome there.
@@Roozy_Persepolis Hey Roozy, im expecting it to come in sometime this week. ill let you know how i like it but i will not be doing any deep dives for a little while due to everything being closed down so ill probably only get to test it up to 60ft a week from now.
Great video, I see on Ebay all the great second tier new regulators that don't sell but as soon as a scubapro 700 or 350 comes up it sells instantly. People are more concerned with the name and will probably only use it to 60ft. The same with dive computers they all want a teric at $1000 bucks a computer that does multiple gases that they will never use but for that one or two trips they go on they will feel like the king, and that's marketing for you.
Marketing affects us everyday (good or bad I'm not saying). Smart folks use blinders to check like for like, not apples vs oranges, then decide. Some believe brand names are better not knowing they also sell white label versions of the exact same item to another brand to sell for less. Thanks for watching John.
also a good idea to shop an identical product in another point of sale ... I realized that my dive shop sold 55% more expensive than another dive shop 35 km away for exactly the same product !!!!
I believe divers should support their LDS IF they treat you right. Otherwise take a drive and tell the farther shop why you drove and he should try hard to take care of someone who went that far to see him. Take care Alain.
@@AlecPeirceScuba_SeaHunter the relationship between the diver and his shop must be completed ... to live in harmony the two need one and the other. for my part I do not encourage profiteers!
You recently posted a video on when it's time to replace a regulator. My regulator was serviced this week. The LDS owner (who did the service) said that I should start thinking about a new regulator because my old regulator, a Mares MR22, had some pressure stability issues. So, I have a few questions relating to buying a new regulator and another video you posted on when it's time to purchase a new regulator. What can happen inside a regulator that makes it unserviceable...outside of severely stripping threads or warping the main body? Is there any wear and tear going on? What questions should a dive shop ask the diver in deciding on a regulator? Related, what questions should divers ask their LDS? On a related point, when talking about regulator costs, we need to talk about the cost of service costs. My annual service this year was $185, including a 25 percent discount for labor. Keep up your good work.
All parts that are subject to deterioration or wear can be replaced. When that is done, the reg is as new. Today, most companies supply the service tech with a service kit. If all items in the service kit are installed (as recommended), the reg is as new. Previously service techs would order just a few parts individually and change them as they saw fit. That is NOT the proper way. Check with your tech to ensure he is using a proper manufacturer kits AND using it all! 1. How many dives do you make per year? 12 or more might indicate a newer reg. 2. Salt water or fresh water? Salt water is much harder on regs including the metal components. 3. How carefully do you clean & store your reg? If you are sloppy, you will need a new reg sooner. 4. Do you make deep dives - deeper than 80'? If so, and if your reg is quite old, maybe it's time to upgrade. A complete regulator service, 1st , 2nd, Safe Second, SPG pin, hose O-Rings can easily cost $250 including parts.
Back in my Public Safety diving days (late '80s-mid '90s), I cold water/ice dove with a Scubapro MK2/G250 reg set. "OMG you can't cold water/ice dive with that setup: you'll DIE!!!" We were trained, using the advice you give in S07E02. Never had a freeze-up. Thanks for your channel!!
New subscriber and newly certified OWD. I am digging into buying my own equipment. It’s confusing and your helping me understand the equipment pros and cons. Btw and I love the shirt with you being the talent.😎
Thanks Don. It came from a discussion between Kevin and I on what my title was when designing the shirts. He said The Boss, I said Adult Film Star, so we settled on The Talent instead. Glad your picking up ideas to be a better diver.
So true about buying a big name to get parts but then again nowadays regs like deep6 and HOG are so good and cheap because they sell straight to consumer that you could buy 2 for the price of others and have a spare.
Price, service and reliability are key factors in a reg purchase. There are so many choices from makers that buyers are sometimes overloaded with choices. Hope these help the new and experienced divers with buying decisions. Thanks for the feedback. A
Hey Alec 1958, Very surprised to see your story, when did you open your store? We must have crossed paths in 1958. I was just entering Warden Ave. High school and bought my first steel tank with two hose, Cousteau Gagnon Acua Lung regulator from Lou and Sally Singers store King St downtown Toronto. No Padi or Naui yet, I found old British Navy Hard hat diving manual. That was my initial training. Later, 1960s, I introduced my friend Big AL Lambert to diving who went all out, opened store, training, pools, dive travel 1969. You must have met him. 1969 Metro Police dive club, ACUC, Naui Padi. I owned boat with Compressor Roatan 1980s. Today living Mindanao Philippines ocean front quiet fishing village, no dive shop within full day drive. Snorkeling, working out. regularly. on Canada Pension difficult saving for even used tank regulator.
Hi John. Good to hear from you. It sounds like you are a few years older than myself. In 1958 I was still at home in Lindsay, Ontario. I came to Toronto in 1968 as a school teacher in Scarborough. I first worked at Underwater World on Kingston Road in Scarborough in 1969. My first dive store was Penguin Divers on Warden Avenue just south of the 401 in about 1971. Then I had Pro Dive, then The Wet Shop in Richmond Hill and then Scuba 2000. I knew Lou & Sally really well. They were odd but nice to me. Al Lambert was OK too. Some found him less than congenial but we always got along just fine. He operated a Supreme store in Scarborough but then opened his own, Canada Scuba Schools, on Morningside Ave in Scarborough. He was there quite a while, married one of his students who subsequently left him. It was pretty traumatic at the time. Lou, Sally, Tom McCallum & Al (in order) are all gone now. I knew a lot of the Metro Police divers - Jim Kozmik (good friend and dive buddy) and others. We almost undoubtedly met at one time. Take care. Alec
The best kind of regulator system is the one that doesn't blow apart in 50ft of water. Been there. My high pressure line-depth gauge blew apart in 50ft and when it does the line whips you like crazy.
I run my HOG Zenith Smoke 2nd stage for 140 bucks and HOG D3 sepaed Din 1st stage for 175. I cold water nasty ponds and every thing. It breaths nice and they have taken a beating. Been running it for 2 years here in Wyoming. But everyone told me they won't last 6 months just because its "cheap" but I will keep with them for a while.
I hear this a lot where folks believe cost is directly related to how long something lasts. As you know, taking good care of it is more important than how much it cost. Look who has saved a lot of money for post dive pops!!!
As you say, what do you need your regs to do and what will you be doing as your diving progresses? Modern regs will last for years if properly taken care of so 'future proofing' will save you money in the long run. When I first qualified I bought cold water compatible, sealed, overbalanced regs and I still use them now years later whenever I dive a singles rig or need to take a stage.
Agree Tim, once you have your favourite set, they will outlast our lives if taken proper care of. Then give to some one young and deserving to help them dive safe too.
Hi Alec, very interesting topic with scuba regulators, this part as your previous review is great, would you consider unique kraken double hose brand new regulater in depth review? i personally think this technology of old look and modern manufacturing is really worth attention. Thanks
That also depends on where you dive. Not the same needs if you only dive on warm water till 40m or if you go deeper and dive in cold water lakes. In France and Europe in general, we have the chance to pay less than in the USA. Aqualung is made in France, Apeks in England, Mares in Italy… So we can easily afford high end for cheaper. For example, The Leg3nd Elite with octopus and spg is 899 euros and can goes down to around 700 euros when there are special prices at a dive show. BUT you have Atomic, which is super expensive here and very difficult to find and service.
There are still great manufacturers in different regions so the variety of quality gear is very high. I still believe scuba is a reasonable sport (and year round) compared to other sports. Want to mess up a North American divers in Europe, ask if they want 12L or 15L tanks??? A
This is also a Din vs Yoke. Cold vs warm water matchup. If you live in Bermuda... Take the Scubapro/ yoke for $300... if you live in cold waters, absolutely Apeks/ Din for $800 (they will get higher $$)
I dive for over 40 years and I've NEVER bought a new regulatorI always used regulators that I've rebuilt and never one leaved me stranded, to me ,the best regulator is the one that suits your use, for sure that a week end sport diver will not use a regulator as deeply that a commercial diver that is day long underwater( within diving limits). Safety is a basic prequise in that industry so a bad regulator builder will have a short life and very often, independant suppliers uses rebadged products as development costs are rather high to produce a competitive product from scratch.
Thanks for sharing Jacques, nice to hear from another 'stone age' diver. I know other commercial divers who only buy slightly used (see if the first owner has a severe failure I guess). Most scuba today is safety first but we all know divers who almost go out of their way to render proper gear useless with neglect or malice treatment.
In relation to your 2 hose and 1 hose regulator story I had a dive instructor say nitrox would kill me. Now he and most others are using nitrox without a thought.
Ah the "VooDoo Gas" as Skin Diver Magazine once called it. Like many of todays scuba gear, gasses and training, once its benefits were verified as real and beneficial, everyone started adopting them. Think back to your first dive computer, not totally reliable but today's are fantastic will lots of features and benefits for every dive level.
Hello Mr. Peirce, i have a question regardin old time scuba or vintage scuba... where did the frog man fill an air tank, i imagine the compressors where not to common back there, and i imagine you didn't use anny car service compressor to fill up an air tank... how did they do it?!
Back in the 'stone age' of 1960's to 70's, there were few dive shops on the west and east coasts that filled tanks. We used to pay the fire department to get our 2250's filled. Many divers had their own portable air fill compressors which worked but were slow (good reason for a long surface interval). Tank fillers had to have many filters to remove impurities and water or the tanks would corrode. Never us a tire filler as it just pushed air in, no filters for safety.
Rats I just got my new 2nd stages in and went to connect them to my first stage only to find that the ports are too big. Turns my ol Dacor Pacer is different then my sherwood. Now I got to find adaptors so I can take my rig and let them tune the 2nd stage to the 1st stage with their online adjustment tool.... See I am learning something from your videos! Now to find those conversion fittings... Lol ( don't you have a couple for sale? )
It was after the Dacor Pacer (a great reg) that HP and LP ports became standardized. The adapters are cheap and you will soon have a fun setup. Thanks for watching.
Dear Alec, could you please kindly make a video that explains how to calibrate the second stage in case it has a flow regulator knob? I've watched your video on how to do that for a simple non-adjustable reg, you've showed that the reg should be on verge of the freeflow and in case of an octo a little bit less than that. So I wonder how you should approach a more sophisticated one. Thank you. P.S. I am not going to do that myself, but I can at least use this knowledge to validate what my LDS technicians do :)
There is little difference from my video on balancing the 2nd stage and those with a built in knob. Not many have this as its on higher priced models mostly. As quick solution is to find a reg with a built in adjustor, download and read its owner operating manual and that would be the same steps a tech would follow.
@@AlecPeirceScuba_SeaHunter Well, I got one very cheap - 2006 aqualung mikron was waiting for me on the clearance for $160 bundled with 2016 mikron octo for another $80. What a steal for my first reg 😎 Thank you for all your tips, Alec, keep them coming 👍 (15 years the reg was waiting for me 😂)
Maybe one day. I was going to England before the lockdown to visit my Simply Scuba friends but thats on hold for a year. I'm very different as I don't ask for Likes, Subscribes, ask for sponsors or show ads. Just want to share what I know while I still can. Alec.
You should watch my Vintage Scuba playlist for lots of old double and single regulators divers could service themselves. Hint: no dive shops around so better learn how!
@@AlecPeirceScuba_SeaHunter Thanks for the reply. Yes, I'm asking because I want to be able to service/maintain/repair my gear in the feild and not rely on anyone else if possible.🙂
@@nobody46820 get two cheap ones (see my post above) so you have a backup. easier to fix at home than in the field! of course simple "save a dive kit" should always be used at well.
Hi Alec, I was thinking about getting flex hoses with my first reg as I first seen them in your videos. After getting a little bit more into the topic I’ve come around issues between polyester and polyether. Did you ever heard about that and have any tips? Also, nice vid again!
Any articles around flex hose degradation/flaking has been fixed in all new flex hoses for the last few years. Why else would manufactures include flex hoses with $1,200 regs unless they were superior to rubber. It's old news re-printed so always check the source date of publication. Same as a modern dive computer beats a 10 year old dive computer. thanks for watching.
I will Richard. Been meaning to get back to more dry suit videos but the lock down has cut our video production from weekly to bi-weekly for now. I will try to get some out this winter while we dream of 2021 diving.
@@AlecPeirceScuba_SeaHunter awesome! I really enjoy your videos, scuba is similar to fishing, half the sport is spent in a tackle shop, your videos keep me focused on the diving side. :-)
I bought a couple used one to try it and and figure out what I liked - the most common thing is to replace the neck and wrist seals (which you should learn to do yourself anyway as yours will eventually need that - parts are just $20+glue for latex). If the main zipper leaks, then I would avoid (unless super cheap and you know how to source and install one). The most pricey item you'll get but SOO worth it in colder water... never going back.
They should have a larger range as there are good regs for new divers in the $300 to $600 range. Don't think their rental or training regs are that expensive. My first reg, an "Aqua-Master" was $35, still have it today. Take care Oscar.
Everything (and I do mean everything) you can get from that “$800 regulator”, you can get for “$300” buy going with brands that technical divers trust, such as DiveRite and HOG. ADDITIONALLY, yes, indeed you can get all rubber hoses that are soft and just as flexible as the milaflex hoses, and they are far better. The braided hoses break down fast. As a technical diver, I refuse to use them. Rubber hoses always.
Scuba gear today has so many options, like car buying. Want a Mini, SUV, Jaguar, Tesla or Bentley? Each car gets you from A to B but its the cost, nice to have items, engine type, history and brand loyalty. For the brand new certified O/W diver with a limited budget but lots of desire, $300 works as we all know there are lots of gear to buy to have a full personal starter set. With diving experience (and some more $$$), divers then either branch out to specialist areas like HOG, tech diving or just stick with annual Caribbean fun dives. Its the wide variety of choices that different marketing messages that gets new divers stressed. I want to educate and entertain divers into smart and informed decisions, not just what the LDS sells. Thanks for the feedback and for watching PDC. A.
Thanks Alec. Wish I seen this video before I bought the same Mares regulator in your video (Din version) I would like to ask, what's the size of the O - Ring for this DIN regulator, there is an o ring in the first stage. Manufacturer refused to inform me about the size and that I take it to their official distributor for a check.
If there is a problem with the unit, do get it checked by a service pro. There are several o-rings in the 1st stage. As a Service Tech I don't give out specifics without the reg in my hands to protect the diver andy myself. Kind of like how doctors don't tell patients how to remove tumors as someone will try it themselves and blame others for their problems. Dive safe Jaber.
@@AlecPeirceScuba_SeaHunter I understand , thank you. A technician in a diving center had a look and simply changed it for me. It was rubber and told it's easy to change. He doesn't memorise the size, and promised to bring a silicone back up for me. There is nothing wrong with the regulator, it's new. I forgot to purge the second stage after taking out the first stage from the tank, and then lost the original din o ring.
Idk man. I think the best regulator is one you wont have to upgrade as your diving progresses. An unbalanced piston yoke regulator may not be appropriate if the diver ends up deciding they want to venture into tech or cold water. So why not spend a few extra bucks on a regulator you're not going to have to replace or upgrade? I mean this is life support equipment we're talking about.
True Kyle but diving, like many sports. You start with what you can afford, then one with more features (or on sale), then the one that will satisfy your diving for decades. I know as I had hundreds of regulators, each with good/bad points but I loved all of them.
@@AlecPeirceScuba_SeaHunter you're actually spending more money that way. If I buy a $300 regulator then in 2 years have to buy a $700 regulator then I've spent a grand on regulators. It's cheaper in the long run to save up just a bit more and buy something that will last. Replacing thousands of dollars worth of gear so that you can advance to the next level of diving absolutely sucks.
@@KB-gd6fc or you could do what I did (twice already). I spent $140 on a New Old Stock (NOS) brand name regulator (Aeris which is Oceanic) pretty much top of the line (balanced diaphragm, Environmental Seal, M-Flex Hose, Ventury and easy adjustment breathing effort underwater) and 5 ports (I have a drysuit) about 2 years ago and I already have 80+ dives on it... yeah might be harder to get parts/serviced but at that price I have a few spares (for kids) and I can buy a reg for less than it takes to service my octo anyway (150+). So many people buy the "top of the line price" because they THINK they might be constrained later... then they barely dive at all... been diving for 40 years and never felt limited, and don't see why this would be different.
@@alaind831 as far as regulators go it sounds like you got a great reg that wouldn't constrain you at all. (Though I'm not familiar with that brand) I'm not advocating to arbitrarily blow money on the most expensive gear one can buy. I just think there is something to be said for planning your purchases, researching, and thinking about your future and making sure you're not going to out grow your gear too quickly. Look at the backplate wing discussion for example. Most divers eventually end up in a backplate wing if they stick to the sport... so why not start with that?
@@KB-gd6fc it is also depending on how many time you gonna use the thing. if you get 700 one and use 1 time, you spend 700 for reg. while you spend only 300 if you get the 300 one. this example is extreme case so.. just example/
Here's a question Alec. I have a pair of Tusa RS-790 regs (Scubapro Mk17/S550 clones) and they're sweet. However the exhaust guides are extremely short and end up blowing bubbles in front of my eyes or just under my hood right into my ears which does get annoying - believe me. My question is - is there anything that I can do to the second stages to change that? Can I take an exhaust guide out of a different regulator and try to squeeze it on? Can I somehow extend the one that is on it or have a longer one custom made? It's not exactly a very safety critical piece of the regulator so I'm willing to try and do something about it. Thanks for the excellent tips as usual.
There is not much you can do to extend the exhaust ports other than convert to a double hose (see my videos on vintage and the modern Kraken). Makers know its a problem sometimes but there is little demand for these. Suggestion is to try a more head down orientation so bubbles go up your neck not by your eyes. Also try tucking your chin in more (helps some divers) to direct bubbles away. Hope these little ideas help. You can also post this problem on www.scubaboard.com to see what other solutions are suggested. A
I understand what what a balanced first stage is and how it works but Ive come across references to “balanced second stages”. Whats that all about? Aren’t they all fundamentally the same aside from venturi assists and a knob for adjusting breathing effort?
First stages are balanced or not, into the low pressure hose. Second stages are 'tuned' or balanced for easiest breathing like with a venture knob or similar.
Alec, I have a Dacor 900 reg with a Pacer 2nd/Octo. Can I get a rebuild for the 2nd stage? Strange enough, I see a bunch of kits for the 1st stage, but nothing for the 2nd. Any ideas or solutions, short of taking to a service guy that's gonna charge more than a new one cost to service? After watching your videos, I have disassembled and "serviced my Mares and US Diver. Please help.
Well first I suggest watching my Vintage Scuba video S07E09 Servicing Vintage Regulators. I show a Dacor Pacer 900 reg I serviced and restored to excellent condition. It can be done, not by me as I sold all my parts and tools, but there are places to contact for help. My friend at VintageDoubleHose.com recommends you contact: Jerrie Struble at diver1969s@yahoo.com. He services many vintage and near-vintage models, like Dacor so start with him to get your regs ready for safe diving again. Thanks for watching and good luck.
I am thinking about buying a Mares Rover regulator. But how would an entry level regulator perform in Canadian waters even in summer since the water here is cooler than in the tropics?
Most new regs are rated to 50F temperature but check with dive operators on bottom temps before diving. I know inside the Niagara II it can be below 50F in summer so don’t get a free flow. A
@AlecPeirceScuba_SeaHunter you are right. Dan's dive shop recommended that I buy something more efficient in cold water than the Rover regulator. Thanks
Like a car, some are more expensive to service or it is hard to find a technician. You might spend $300 for the initial purchase but it needs to be serviced annually and the service parts plus labour will cost you $100. So after 12 years you might spend $1500 maintaining it. But another regulator system might cost $600 for the initial purchase but it needs to be serviced every 3 years. The service parts might be $120. You'd only have to service it 4 times in 12 years for $480 + $600 for the initial purchase or a total of $1280. Plus every 3 years you would spend $300 to service the cheaper regulator and only $120 for the more expensive regulator. Now the opposite could be true. I had a regulator which cost me $250, parts and service were $50 and it needed annual servicing. After 10 years I spent $750. I've seen some regulators which cost $800, required service annually and service was $180. So after 10 years the expensive regulator was $2600. Finally, sometimes money is no object and it is more about reliability. In almost everywhere in the world I go, I can find parts for the really expensive regulator. If I'm in the middle of some remote location and my regulator needs servicing. I'm 10 hours away from any populated area. But the dive shop I'm at has parts and a good technician. If it is a 23 hour flight home. Then it might not matter that I require $2600 every 10 years to service it. Bottom line, how much it costs to service the regulator and how easy it is to find a good technician might be why you buy one regulator than another.
Well said Darrell. Look back at a previous tech tip video on service costs over time vs purchase price. Can't remember the name but hope it gives you a smile on this subject.
In some cases it would make more economic sense to 'retire" the cheapo reg every 3 years and replace it with new cheapo reg rather than service it every year at very high cost and delays and chance the tech is incompetent and will kill you. goes against common sense and I notice some manufacturers have lengthened their service periods.
Obviously, some brands are better than others. I've been seeing Sea Elite while searching for a regulator and I've seen mixed reviews. I'm trying to decide between a sea elite and a Mares. Any thoughts?
Mares has been around decades and is well known despite not being one of the biggest companies. I have never heard of Sea Elite. It would be a lot easier to maintain the Mares. It you buy a Toyota you can get parts until it falls apart, right. Not so for the Chevy I once had. Parts were very hard to obtain.
Each brand has more/less/different features than the next with some having a much better reputation among its customers. When all features are the same, my pick is the one with easy/available service where I dive. Thanks for watching.
I want to choose between the Aqua lung Legend and the Mk25. I’m 61 padi certified. However just getting back into the game after 12 years. So which first stage is the one I should consider most ? Ps. New subscriber
Let me welcome you back into diving and in 12 years a lot of gear changes has happened (for the better). I'm not into recommending gear without a lot of input from the user to understand your budget, diving types (cold, deep, warm, shallow, etc, occasional, tech, etc.). So just some basics before visiting your local dive shop. The MK25 EVO is an overbalanced piston first stage whereas the Aqualung Legend LX is an overbalanced diaphragm first stage. Each is a great 1st stage but there are features you may want/not want such as the Aqualung Auto Closure Device (ACD). Look back through my playlist for videos on: piston vs diaphragm, Aqualung ACD, cold water diving for information on the pros/cons of each. What you should also be concerned about is the 2nd stage breathing effort and features. Hope this helps get you started and get wet soon. A.
Tech diving is a term to get you to buy more crap that you will probably never notice. People have been tech diving for 40years it was called exploration in deep water. If your reg breaths the same at 100ft looking up then it's probably all you will ever need unless you are in cold water which I can't imagine ever doing again since I'm in fl.
@@ts440s thanks my friend. I live in Vancouver so the water is almost always cold. I am contemplating to get the Apeks XL4+ , mainly for cave dives,and maybe wreck diving. I don't want my reg to be faulty once I am deep in a cave.
You have lots of feedback from the tec side so listen to them but make up your own mind. Check the regs max depth limit and how it breaths at 130' before taking it deeper. Also tec have many more backup/redundant gear to protect you from any failure. Have fun Roozy.
I've used regulators less expensive than that in temperatures they were not certified for up to 55 meters. They performed just as they were supposed to. Just bring two on potentially dangerous dives: twin tanks or even better sidemount. In my opinion, it's better to have two "cheap" separate systems than one "premium". There's less chance to have two regs failing than one, no matter the price range. If you can and want to spend more on regulators, that's perfectly okay: they're prettier, well built and nice to breathe from. But don't believe the guys who tell you that you absolutely need a pair of titanium scubapro mk25s or Apeks for "tech". A pair of aqua lung calypsos will do the job. What matters is training and redundancy, the rest is luxury (which is nice, by the way!)
@@scubaclient355 How so? Apart from the lip covers, I don't really see ergonomic improvements on certified cold water regulators vs entry level ones. The main changes on regulators (high end vs low end) are in my opinion fit and finish, ease of breathing (with sometimes an adjustment lever for that), materials used (metal body for the second stage instead of plastic). I have -so far- never seen a regulator where the purge button was hard to find and operate even with dry gloves, no matter the price range.
If I understand your question is that all second stages are adjustable to match the IP in the hose (remember IP can change slightly between 1st stage manufacturers. It is adjusted by a service tech with special tools then pressure tested before diving. Adjusting by the old hose off/adjust/on/test/repeat is slow and not as exact as an in-line adjuster.
I wouldn't buy one which is far too cheap. Sure it would be a perfect one for $80, but I personally wouldn't trust one which is $70. I wonder if you could recommend a good regulator?
All the major scuba brands have great products from basic to the super shinny chrome regs. Pick your budget then go shopping. It's like buying a car, you want a Porche but your budget is a Honda, don't stress about what you can't get. In a few years a great deal may come along for the new 2030 regs. In my many decades, I dove about 50+ regs so get one you like and works for your type of diving. Take care Ben.
I’m building my own regulator system and thinking about having transmitters without spg’s, my question is if my computer support more than pne transmitter does it necessary support twin cylinder sidemount ??
@@mohannadalhammadi Yes the Shearwater Perdix AI can receive 2 transmitter. The new Shearwater Teric can have 4 transmitters. Shearwater is the benchmark for dive computers.
Titanium resists corrosion better and is lighter than any other metal when making a scuba regulator. Downside is cost, they are generally the most expensive regs to buy from $1,500 and up. Think of them as a Bugatti Veyron, super cool but still takes you from A to B at the same speed limit as everyone else.
Hi Alec! It's always me, your Italian fan! I have just finished to watch all of your tech tips and I came back here to write to you about a doubt I have. I do 60 metres normoxic trimix dives and so I have different regulators. On my deco bottles i have Scubapro MK20/MK25 with G250V and love them. On my twinset I have Apeks XTX50 DST and... I am now a little bit concerned about their safety because I discovered that they don't have a 'changeable' hp valve seat... So there is always some creep in the ip that could lead to freeflow. My local service man doesn't like Apeks regulators for this reason (except the XTX200 FSR because it has a 'changeable' hp valve seat). I am now thinking in selling them and buy all Scubapro MK25... What are your thoughts about it? Have you ever seen a problem of poor hp valve seal on Apeks regulators with non-changeable valve seat? Maybe I'm getting paranoid but I hope you understand, I would like to feel secure about my bottom regulators. I wrote to you because I trust you :) Mattia
Good to hear from you Mattia. For the benefit of viewers, the 1st stage has a High Pressure (HP) valve. The valve has 2 seats that meet to control the air. Most regulators have a hard, non-replaceable seat PLUS a soft, replaceable seat. A few regulators have both seats replaceable. Some have none that are replaceable. In every service, the HP seat needs to be replaced or renewed since the operation of the regulator makes a permanent indentation in the seat. It's impossible to reassemble the HP valve such that the indentation is in the prior identical position. Any attempt to do so will lead to leaks or creep. Apeks are good regulators but, as with all regs, have their own unique issues. The Scubapro MK 25 is simply unbeatable. It is affordable, easy to service & utterly reliable in all diving scenarios. I do not want to tell you to get rid of your Apeks and get the MK25 but, if you have the resources to do so and are looking for confidence, do it. Take care. Alec
@@AlecPeirceScuba_SeaHunter Alec, you are the best mentor! Your answers are always detailed and I really want to remember you how much I appreciate what you do, you're my idol! I am now basically sold on exchanging my regs to Scubapro! I would like to ask a few more things if you don't mind: 1) Is the Scubapro MK19 (I like it because it has the same routing of hoses as the MK25 but it's a diaphragm regulator) as 'unbeatable' (to use your words) as the MK25? Would you consider it (here in Italy, diving more during summer, water doesn't get often below 15 °C) over the MK25? 2) These first stages (both MK25 and MK19) come in the basic chrome version (I know you're a fan of chrome because I watched your videos :) ) and in a DLC (diamond-like carbon) black tech. Have you ever heard about the black tech treatment come loose/descolouring/something like that? Asking a so experienced diver/serviceman like you makes me feel much more comfortable :)
Hi Alec! I hope you're fine :) It's always me, your Italian fan! I can imagine that shooting videos, answering comments and... being The Talent is not easy at all!! It must be very time consuming... I just wanted to try to get your attention to this previous comment of mine about MK25/MK19 regulators. Stay safe and... Thank you!! :) Mattia
Only if you believe the marketing hype. Most regs are ok to 50F / 10C then the risk of a free flow increases as water temp decreases. Watch video S07E02, Prepping for Cold Water Diving for suggestions on regs and S08E05 Why does my regulator freeze? These should answer most of your questions Clint.
Buy the "rental" regulator model from the brand you like, or the one just above it; these will breathe easy, be tough, and cheap and easy to service. Anything more is a waste of money.
You must be from outside North America. Yokes are almost 100% of recreational diving here. Few have even seen a DIN here so my videos have educated a lot of divers on both sides. Safe diving Jon.
I'm not worried about buying the "best" regulator, but I am worried about buying the "worst" regulator. $60 regulators from China are readily available.
As I said before, if it cannot be serviced easily, avoid it. What if you're on a dive in Indonesia on a live aboard and it fails, no parts for it so have to rent.
Taken from Scubapro: "The MK2 EVO is the only downstream piston-style first stage with internal components specifically designed to resist freezing in extreme cold-water conditions." They do have both models.
Always appreciate the comedic relief (1:58). Thank you for making SCUBA talk fun, safe and entertaining.
Always try too otherwise its not fun.
The best regulator is the one you have :)
Very true Theodor.
Hey Alec, Miguel from the Conch republic, I still have my Calypso VI for over 40 years, diving almost every weekend, still working like day one. Simple and reliable.
I love the Pacer 900. Look back in my Vintage Scuba playlist where I restored one for a dear friend using my last parts. Should make you smile.
You sir are an absolute treasure for the recreational diving community. I got an Aqualung Legend in 2011 and it is great. It has the auto closure device ACD. I got the advanced open water coarse free when I bought it. Thank you for the videos and keep up the great work.
A great reg and O/W course, good deal. What do you get if you buy split fins??? Ha.
"Remember the Edsel?" They make great additions to quarry dives! Thanks for another great video Alec!
You bet!
How many remember the Edsel? I had a friend that owned one.
I bought one new off the assembly line.
Hahaha: "remember the Edsel?" Always humorous and informative; thank you.
What’s an Edsel ? I don’t get the reference.
Glad you enjoyed it. Few know what problems the Edsel had.
So fun to watch people talk about their passions!
I do love diving. Thanks for watching.
Alec you are a national treasure! If you pass through Australia you may come across a now collectible regulator called Airdive. They are the best regulator in the world, used by professional abalone divers in Australia breathing for thousands of hours harvesting the shellfish, dodging white sharks and without any maintenance. First prize for being the ugliest reg in the world but simple rugged design. I was diving with an ab diver in the 1970's using an Airdive with a split diaphragm. The front rubber cover was removed on the boat, piece of electrical tape applied to the split then down he went to gather another couple thousand $ worth of shellfish.
I know of Air-Dive and how they were an early innovator in scuba. Kevin has Air-Dive catalogues from 1962 onward. I remember every product name started with "SeaBee". Appreciate the story and ugliest reg winner line.
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I agree with your approach and thank you for trying to show truth and let people be aware of the marketing words used by manufacturers. Thanks a lot for that.
As you say, we have decide and weight the extra "gold plating" features of premium regs compared to standard regs.
However, and correct if I'm wrong, the feature that would help me breath better without any hiccups (no pun intended) at depths of 30 to 50 meters, or at whatever position I could be at, is actually not a leather seat feature. Bur rather a feature similar to vehicle collision warning system or extra horsepower, which is way important than a leather seat.
A venturi assist is a great device for deep divers or bigger divers (like Kevin but I"m not going to mention his name...). Thanks for sharing and watching my friend.
Hey your vids have been really helpful, I’m just finishing up my open water training, this is really helpful in looking for gear to start me off
Great to hear! You have many years of diving fun, stories and lots to learn from me!!
Thanks Alec always great to watch you teach. I love the shirt too, your the Talent. Keep the videos coming.
I appreciate that! Kevin's wife got us these nice matching shirts. I'm 'The Talent' and he is 'Executive Producer'.
Thanks for watching.
Thanks Alec I’m big fan I just wanted to say thank for your wonderful videos 👍👍👍👍
I appreciate that Larry.
Great video as always!
Thanks for these, Alec!
Glad you like them!
No reason to buy new. I purchased an older model Aqualung Legend with matching factory octo for 250 dollars on craigslist. It had about 25 dives on it but it needed servicing. That was five years ago and with over 300 dives, it's probably the last set of regs I will ever purchase.Dang thing is bulletproof..
Used gear can be a good buy if you know about the model and get it properly serviced as you did. I hear many stories of someone paying $10 for a 'great old' reg that cannot be serviced or fails on a dive. My new and vintage gear is always cared for as my life does depend on it.
The first reg you showed was the regs my wife and i bought S pro jobs A year later we upgraded to MK 25 600 s Scubapro regs and 1st stage The diff as you've said between top range and low-level price-wise Regs All Scubapro The cheaper ones were ni as good in 20 30 meter dives Could have saved a few bob All the best to you and yours matey
Glad you learned something from this old diver. Thanks for watching Peter and Dorothy.
I'm new to this and it's the same in every sport or activity. Every trumpet plays, every gun shoots and you can run in any running shoe.
This time I will start cheap and let the experience drive the need. Should anything go wrong I will drop the belt. :)
Thank you for this video. Also because it was fun to watch.
Glad you liked it Giacomo. Nothing wrong with going slow before investing big bucks in something you may drop latter.
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Thanks. Appreciate very much your videos. Totally agree with you on using regulators produced by proven and established brands. For me I’ve always used ScubaPro’s tried and tested MK25 Evo first stage. The proven ScubaPro second stage S600 I’ve now replaced with a better version: ScubaPro D420.
Scubapro has been around since 1962 so it's a leader in reliable, safe and affordable gear. Glad you like your setup and stick with what you're comfortable with.
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Well I have the scuba pro r190... my dad bought over 20 years ago! It still works great! It's fine tuned, breathes good at depth. .Around the same time he bought me a dacor reg... I can't use the dacor anymore.. I can't get it serviced, and the dacor was a little bit more expensive back then.... but the r190 reg fits my needs... I don't dive much.... so why spend $800 on a reg you only use 1 or 2 trips a year.. But dive shops try to sell you the best gear to make money.. great video and advice!
Thanks for sharing Jonathan.
Thanks for the tips Alec.
I'd say there's also a difference in the service interval due to material differences.
Each manufacturer sets the recommended service interval (plus kit prices!). However, actual diving should determine when to get it serviced before problems start. In my dive store some divers had full services two times a year as they dove fresh/salt & warm/cold waters on trips and teaching. Compared to the cost of a replacement 1st and 2nd stage, a service is little money for the value. Take care Steven.
I enjoy gear as much as the next guy! With that said I believe training and experience is critical to new divers. I would rather see a new guy with a cheap reg and 50 dives under his belt. I don’t wanna see a guy with a $1,500 reg and 3 dives under his belt. Gear is important but training and experience is king 👑 great video 👍🏻
I also like someone who will dive with what they have rather than the newest thing. Experience is a good teacher and a good gear setup is great comfort.
Thank you Alec Peirce for this video
Glad you like it.
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My regulator is the scubapro mk11 C370 and I love it. Very easy to breathe from and at a great price. First reg I have ever own.
Very nice! it will last a long time.
Hey Alec! Just found your channel and I love it! You are a great teacher and speaker. Love the humor and old-time stories! I am just retiring and hope to do a lot of diving in the future! I will be shopping for a regulator very soon.
Welcome aboard! Lots of information and laughs for divers young and 'stone age'.
I would love to see what is your own scuba gear and talk about it,not as a marketing strategy,but just to know ,based on your extensive experience, why you chose those items , and maybe if you could have changed some of them,let us know why.
Thats an idea, added it to my future video plans.
Sir
You are a treasure of knowledge, hearing you reminds me of my dive instructor (Werner Prietz)
My first regulator set I bought is Poseidon back in mid 90s I was doing a lot of Scuba diving then in Europe, later I got a ScubaPro as back up set. My dive buddy's and I was doing a lot of diving then. Deep, cold water, "low visability" compared to Florida. I got quite a few strange looks diving in Florida after that showing up on dive boats with the extra hose for drysuit and DIN attachment regulator. Now I'm trying to get back to diving after a long hiatus from it of 10 plus years. A string of things has and keeps popping up now this Covin 19 😣
Thank you for passing on your knowledge and experience, stay safe and healthy.
Respectful
Darrell
Thank you Darrell. We all hope to get wet again soon so until then, may I humbly suggest to keep on watching to keep you current and informed before the next dive trip.
My first reg mares axis.... always came out of adjustment from new... got the update kit it changed the threaded seat in second stage. Works excellent.. still use it and goes cold water and ice diving never has let me down. To me it's better than my more expensive regulator.
Thanks for sharing
I've found the newer style Regs in fancy plastics are good for when diving away from home( den/workshop) for long periods ( months). I still buy the older Dacor's, ScubaPro's etc, but nine times out of ten they will have verdigris over the serial number ( often already scratched from being ' cleaned ' with the tip of a screwdriver...). We made oilfields with USD Conshelfs hanging out of our mouths and they're as good today as they were four+ decades ago . BUT fastidious cleaning and DRYING is a must to keep them nice. Particularly for novice/sport divers ( including heavy use), who aren't gear nuts ( seems that's what we are called if we maintain anything these days) the plastics are good.
An old Dacor taken care of will last through your grand kids. Glad you appreciate the effort to keep one working.
Great advice Alec 👌
Glad it was helpful!
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good video Alec , thanks i was first certified in 1978 and i bough a AMF regulator back then i was lucky enough to get it at a PX on a military base and my cost was 125 dollars which was a fantastic price for the time i want to say the model was a MR2 ? but i’m not positive i dove a lot back then with a bunch of Coastie helicopter pilots and we all had that regulator because thats what the base sold it worked great for many years and dives other than a ripple guage cluster that i installed pressure , Compass , and a blank in it i’m kind of surprised in your video that the pricing hasn’t really gone that far out of proportion to all the other gear over time after high school graduation i used to do a volunteer Scuba Diving Class to other students in my old School for the Physical Education Department and in the mid 1980s i used to tell them that a basic Dive package of equipment would run them about two thousand dollars plus the cost of a Certification class that i highly reccomended of course to stay safe ironically the basis of those classes were based on the United States Navy Charts that they later found were not the best and stopped using i still have my original Padi computation tables that i had teathered to my Boyancy Compensator again another AMF product purchased at the same military base it was a horse collar style and was that high visibility yellow with reflective strips sewn onto it not the prettiest thing ever made for diving but it worked as i went on to wear that for over 250 logged Dives btw i grew up in South Florida only 13 blocks from the beach and about a hour and a half drive to the Florida keys i owned a boat before my first car lol as you can see where my priorities were my high school sweet heart used to call me Fishy Boy because Scuba was my thing oh that regulator is on display at a freinds Bar in which the bar itself has a glass top over a beach sand / diving relics themed presentation in which i donated a few of my Antiques and treasures to i did get a kick out of you telling the trade name for Plastic that old AMF regulator was all Chromed Metal
Thanks for sharing your stories Craig. Nice to hear from another 'stone age' diver still active and loving it.
I just got myself the Apeks MTX-RC with the MTX-C Octo primarily due to the fact that its great in cold water but has the adjustability to be well adapted to any condition. And since I want to get into ice diving I figured why not just go all out.
Can you please let me know how you like it. I actually want to get that one or maybe the XLR+, Thank you.
If you have the cash and really want the best/full feature, go for it and enjoy. Roozy wants to know how it works too.
@@AlecPeirceScuba_SeaHunter Hey Alec, it is pretty overkill for me but yes i did have the extra cash so i just went for it, and this way i have the gear already to branch out to more technical diving. if theres one thing i dont mind paying more for, its the regs. also due to covid 19 rental restrictions my local dive store had some great deals on gear :) oh and im super jealous of your location, would be nice to be close to Tobermory dive sights look awesome there.
@@Roozy_Persepolis Hey Roozy, im expecting it to come in sometime this week. ill let you know how i like it but i will not be doing any deep dives for a little while due to everything being closed down so ill probably only get to test it up to 60ft a week from now.
@@HypnoticAbyss No worries my friend. You can email me whenever you get it, I will really appreciate it. roozy8564@gmail.com
this is my favourite scuba youtube channel
Hey, mine too!
A.
Great video, I see on Ebay all the great second tier new regulators that don't sell but as soon as a scubapro 700 or 350 comes up it sells instantly. People are more concerned with the name and will probably only use it to 60ft. The same with dive computers they all want a teric at $1000 bucks a computer that does multiple gases that they will never use but for that one or two trips they go on they will feel like the king, and that's marketing for you.
Marketing affects us everyday (good or bad I'm not saying). Smart folks use blinders to check like for like, not apples vs oranges, then decide. Some believe brand names are better not knowing they also sell white label versions of the exact same item to another brand to sell for less. Thanks for watching John.
also a good idea to shop an identical product in another point of sale ... I realized that my dive shop sold 55% more expensive than another dive shop 35 km away for exactly the same product !!!!
I believe divers should support their LDS IF they treat you right. Otherwise take a drive and tell the farther shop why you drove and he should try hard to take care of someone who went that far to see him. Take care Alain.
@@AlecPeirceScuba_SeaHunter the relationship between the diver and his shop must be completed ... to live in harmony the two need one and the other. for my part I do not encourage profiteers!
@diver dave DiveInn is my spot !
You recently posted a video on when it's time to replace a regulator. My regulator was serviced this week. The LDS owner (who did the service) said that I should start thinking about a new regulator because my old regulator, a Mares MR22, had some pressure stability issues. So, I have a few questions relating to buying a new regulator and another video you posted on when it's time to purchase a new regulator.
What can happen inside a regulator that makes it unserviceable...outside of severely stripping threads or warping the main body? Is there any wear and tear going on?
What questions should a dive shop ask the diver in deciding on a regulator? Related, what questions should divers ask their LDS?
On a related point, when talking about regulator costs, we need to talk about the cost of service costs. My annual service this year was $185, including a 25 percent discount for labor.
Keep up your good work.
All parts that are subject to deterioration or wear can be replaced. When that is done, the reg is as new.
Today, most companies supply the service tech with a service kit. If all items in the service kit are installed (as recommended), the reg is as new. Previously service techs would order just a few parts individually and change them as they saw fit. That is NOT the proper way. Check with your tech to ensure he is using a proper manufacturer kits AND using it all!
1. How many dives do you make per year? 12 or more might indicate a newer reg.
2. Salt water or fresh water? Salt water is much harder on regs including the metal components.
3. How carefully do you clean & store your reg? If you are sloppy, you will need a new reg sooner.
4. Do you make deep dives - deeper than 80'? If so, and if your reg is quite old, maybe it's time to upgrade.
A complete regulator service, 1st , 2nd, Safe Second, SPG pin, hose O-Rings can easily cost $250 including parts.
Your LDS lied to you and is trying to generate sales. Find a new LDS. That one can’t be trusted with life-maintaining equipment.
I love this guy!
Me too! Thanks for the love.
Back in my Public Safety diving days (late '80s-mid '90s), I cold water/ice dove with a Scubapro MK2/G250 reg set. "OMG you can't cold water/ice dive with that setup: you'll DIE!!!"
We were trained, using the advice you give in S07E02. Never had a freeze-up.
Thanks for your channel!!
Appreciate the feedback and glad you didn't die. Must be one of them smart divers from the old days !!
Another good job of explaining regs
Glad you like them!
New subscriber and newly certified OWD. I am digging into buying my own equipment. It’s confusing and your helping me understand the equipment pros and cons. Btw and I love the shirt with you being the talent.😎
Thanks Don. It came from a discussion between Kevin and I on what my title was when designing the shirts. He said The Boss, I said Adult Film Star, so we settled on The Talent instead. Glad your picking up ideas to be a better diver.
@@AlecPeirceScuba_SeaHunter hahahahaha well done😂
So true about buying a big name to get parts but then again nowadays regs like deep6 and HOG are so good and cheap because they sell straight to consumer that you could buy 2 for the price of others and have a spare.
Price, service and reliability are key factors in a reg purchase. There are so many choices from makers that buyers are sometimes overloaded with choices. Hope these help the new and experienced divers with buying decisions. Thanks for the feedback.
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Hey Alec 1958,
Very surprised to see your story, when did you open your store? We must have crossed paths in 1958. I was just entering Warden Ave. High school and bought my first steel tank with two hose, Cousteau Gagnon Acua Lung regulator from Lou and Sally Singers store King St downtown Toronto. No Padi or Naui yet, I found old British Navy Hard hat diving manual. That was my initial training.
Later, 1960s, I introduced my friend Big AL Lambert to diving who went all out, opened store, training, pools, dive travel 1969. You must have met him.
1969 Metro Police dive club, ACUC, Naui Padi. I owned boat with Compressor Roatan 1980s. Today living Mindanao Philippines ocean front quiet fishing village, no dive shop within full day drive. Snorkeling, working out. regularly.
on Canada Pension difficult saving for even used tank regulator.
Hi John. Good to hear from you. It sounds like you are a few years older than myself. In 1958 I was still at home in Lindsay, Ontario. I came to Toronto in 1968 as a school teacher in Scarborough. I first worked at Underwater World on Kingston Road in Scarborough in 1969. My first dive store was Penguin Divers on Warden Avenue just south of the 401 in about 1971. Then I had Pro Dive, then The Wet Shop in Richmond Hill and then Scuba 2000.
I knew Lou & Sally really well. They were odd but nice to me. Al Lambert was OK too. Some found him less than congenial but we always got along just fine. He operated a Supreme store in Scarborough but then opened his own, Canada Scuba Schools, on Morningside Ave in Scarborough. He was there quite a while, married one of his students who subsequently left him. It was pretty traumatic at the time.
Lou, Sally, Tom McCallum & Al (in order) are all gone now.
I knew a lot of the Metro Police divers - Jim Kozmik (good friend and dive buddy) and others.
We almost undoubtedly met at one time.
Take care. Alec
The best kind of regulator system is the one that doesn't blow apart in 50ft of water. Been there.
My high pressure line-depth gauge blew apart in 50ft and when it does the line whips you like crazy.
Good to know you're ok from that experience Dave. Thanks for sharing. Did you see my video on cut HP and LP hoses? Take look for it.
@@AlecPeirceScuba_SeaHunter Thanks.
I run my HOG Zenith Smoke 2nd stage for 140 bucks and HOG D3 sepaed Din 1st stage for 175. I cold water nasty ponds and every thing. It breaths nice and they have taken a beating. Been running it for 2 years here in Wyoming. But everyone told me they won't last 6 months just because its "cheap" but I will keep with them for a while.
I do love your videos bud keep them coming
I hear this a lot where folks believe cost is directly related to how long something lasts. As you know, taking good care of it is more important than how much it cost. Look who has saved a lot of money for post dive pops!!!
As you say, what do you need your regs to do and what will you be doing as your diving progresses? Modern regs will last for years if properly taken care of so 'future proofing' will save you money in the long run. When I first qualified I bought cold water compatible, sealed, overbalanced regs and I still use them now years later whenever I dive a singles rig or need to take a stage.
Agree Tim, once you have your favourite set, they will outlast our lives if taken proper care of. Then give to some one young and deserving to help them dive safe too.
@@AlecPeirceScuba_SeaHunter excellent advice!
Hi Alec, very interesting topic with scuba regulators, this part as your previous review is great, would you consider unique kraken double hose brand new regulater in depth review? i personally think this technology of old look and modern manufacturing is really worth attention. Thanks
Look back as I did a review of the Kraken in S07E17 in my pool. Hope his helps you decide.
u r so right so far in my book!
Thank you Jose.
That also depends on where you dive. Not the same needs if you only dive on warm water till 40m or if you go deeper and dive in cold water lakes. In France and Europe in general, we have the chance to pay less than in the USA. Aqualung is made in France, Apeks in England, Mares in Italy… So we can easily afford high end for cheaper. For example, The Leg3nd Elite with octopus and spg is 899 euros and can goes down to around 700 euros when there are special prices at a dive show. BUT you have Atomic, which is super expensive here and very difficult to find and service.
There are still great manufacturers in different regions so the variety of quality gear is very high. I still believe scuba is a reasonable sport (and year round) compared to other sports. Want to mess up a North American divers in Europe, ask if they want 12L or 15L tanks???
A
This is also a Din vs Yoke. Cold vs warm water matchup. If you live in Bermuda... Take the Scubapro/ yoke for $300... if you live in cold waters, absolutely Apeks/ Din for $800 (they will get higher $$)
This is a discussion that will be doing on long after I am. As long as it work for you, be happy.
Tech tippssss, love it 👌👌👌
Glad you liked it!
A
I dive for over 40 years and I've NEVER bought a new regulatorI always used regulators that I've rebuilt and never one leaved me stranded, to me ,the best regulator is the one that suits your use, for sure that a week end sport diver will not use a regulator as deeply that a commercial diver that is day long underwater( within diving limits).
Safety is a basic prequise in that industry so a bad regulator builder will have a short life and very often, independant suppliers uses rebadged products as development costs are rather high to produce a competitive product from scratch.
Thanks for sharing Jacques, nice to hear from another 'stone age' diver.
I know other commercial divers who only buy slightly used (see if the first owner has a severe failure I guess). Most scuba today is safety first but we all know divers who almost go out of their way to render proper gear useless with neglect or malice treatment.
Ever since I got my hands on a set of apeks I swear by it. And I won't change any time soon.
If you are happy with them, perfect. Until a future shinny new one comes along. Take care.
Fantastic Alex bro ty
Thank you too!
In relation to your 2 hose and 1 hose regulator story I had a dive instructor say nitrox would kill me. Now he and most others are using nitrox without a thought.
Ah the "VooDoo Gas" as Skin Diver Magazine once called it. Like many of todays scuba gear, gasses and training, once its benefits were verified as real and beneficial, everyone started adopting them. Think back to your first dive computer, not totally reliable but today's are fantastic will lots of features and benefits for every dive level.
Hello Mr. Peirce, i have a question regardin old time scuba or vintage scuba... where did the frog man fill an air tank, i imagine the compressors where not to common back there, and i imagine you didn't use anny car service compressor to fill up an air tank... how did they do it?!
Back in the 'stone age' of 1960's to 70's, there were few dive shops on the west and east coasts that filled tanks. We used to pay the fire department to get our 2250's filled. Many divers had their own portable air fill compressors which worked but were slow (good reason for a long surface interval). Tank fillers had to have many filters to remove impurities and water or the tanks would corrode. Never us a tire filler as it just pushed air in, no filters for safety.
Rats I just got my new 2nd stages in and went to connect them to my first stage only to find that the ports are too big. Turns my ol Dacor Pacer is different then my sherwood.
Now I got to find adaptors so I can take my rig and let them tune the 2nd stage to the 1st stage with their online adjustment tool.... See I am learning something from your videos!
Now to find those conversion fittings... Lol ( don't you have a couple for sale? )
It was after the Dacor Pacer (a great reg) that HP and LP ports became standardized. The adapters are cheap and you will soon have a fun setup. Thanks for watching.
Best regulators to buy are the old double hose regulators. We dive ours all the time to 100 plus feet all the time with no issues!!
That's because you're a highly experienced vintage double hose diver I bet!
Alec
@@AlecPeirceScuba_SeaHunter Yes Sir!
Dear Alec, could you please kindly make a video that explains how to calibrate the second stage in case it has a flow regulator knob?
I've watched your video on how to do that for a simple non-adjustable reg, you've showed that the reg should be on verge of the freeflow and in case of an octo a little bit less than that.
So I wonder how you should approach a more sophisticated one.
Thank you.
P.S. I am not going to do that myself, but I can at least use this knowledge to validate what my LDS technicians do :)
There is little difference from my video on balancing the 2nd stage and those with a built in knob. Not many have this as its on higher priced models mostly. As quick solution is to find a reg with a built in adjustor, download and read its owner operating manual and that would be the same steps a tech would follow.
@@AlecPeirceScuba_SeaHunter Well, I got one very cheap - 2006 aqualung mikron was waiting for me on the clearance for $160 bundled with 2016 mikron octo for another $80.
What a steal for my first reg 😎
Thank you for all your tips, Alec, keep them coming 👍
(15 years the reg was waiting for me 😂)
great videos alec have you thought about doing colabs with divers ready or thise other scuba youtubers
Maybe one day. I was going to England before the lockdown to visit my Simply Scuba friends but thats on hold for a year. I'm very different as I don't ask for Likes, Subscribes, ask for sponsors or show ads. Just want to share what I know while I still can.
Alec.
Greetings Alec,
If there is no best regulator, what about the best bang-for-the-buck regulator?
What about the easiest field serviceable regulator?
You should watch my Vintage Scuba playlist for lots of old double and single regulators divers could service themselves. Hint: no dive shops around so better learn how!
@@AlecPeirceScuba_SeaHunter Thanks for the reply. Yes, I'm asking because I want to be able to service/maintain/repair my gear in the feild and not rely on anyone else if possible.🙂
@@nobody46820 get two cheap ones (see my post above) so you have a backup. easier to fix at home than in the field! of course simple "save a dive kit" should always be used at well.
Hi Alec, I was thinking about getting flex hoses with my first reg as I first seen them in your videos. After getting a little bit more into the topic I’ve come around issues between polyester and polyether. Did you ever heard about that and have any tips? Also, nice vid again!
Any articles around flex hose degradation/flaking has been fixed in all new flex hoses for the last few years. Why else would manufactures include flex hoses with $1,200 regs unless they were superior to rubber. It's old news re-printed so always check the source date of publication. Same as a modern dive computer beats a 10 year old dive computer. thanks for watching.
Alec, did you ever get my message... A lot has sadly changed in recent months . Hope your family are safe and well. Peter UK
Sorry Peter but nothing has come in my mailbox. Send it to aleccpeirce@gmail.com please.
Alec
@@AlecPeirceScuba_SeaHunter
I'll look forward to catching up.
Can you do a video on how long a drysuit should last and at what point buying a used one becomes a bad idea? THANKS!
I will Richard. Been meaning to get back to more dry suit videos but the lock down has cut our video production from weekly to bi-weekly for now. I will try to get some out this winter while we dream of 2021 diving.
@@AlecPeirceScuba_SeaHunter awesome! I really enjoy your videos, scuba is similar to fishing, half the sport is spent in a tackle shop, your videos keep me focused on the diving side. :-)
I bought a couple used one to try it and and figure out what I liked - the most common thing is to replace the neck and wrist seals (which you should learn to do yourself anyway as yours will eventually need that - parts are just $20+glue for latex). If the main zipper leaks, then I would avoid (unless super cheap and you know how to source and install one). The most pricey item you'll get but SOO worth it in colder water... never going back.
@@alaind831 yes, thats great advice, thank you.
I see most regs in my scuba shop 1k to 2k……i still love my 10 year old -300 dollar reg
They should have a larger range as there are good regs for new divers in the $300 to $600 range. Don't think their rental or training regs are that expensive. My first reg, an "Aqua-Master" was $35, still have it today. Take care Oscar.
Everything (and I do mean everything) you can get from that “$800 regulator”, you can get for “$300” buy going with brands that technical divers trust, such as DiveRite and HOG. ADDITIONALLY, yes, indeed you can get all rubber hoses that are soft and just as flexible as the milaflex hoses, and they are far better. The braided hoses break down fast. As a technical diver, I refuse to use them. Rubber hoses always.
Scuba gear today has so many options, like car buying. Want a Mini, SUV, Jaguar, Tesla or Bentley? Each car gets you from A to B but its the cost, nice to have items, engine type, history and brand loyalty. For the brand new certified O/W diver with a limited budget but lots of desire, $300 works as we all know there are lots of gear to buy to have a full personal starter set. With diving experience (and some more $$$), divers then either branch out to specialist areas like HOG, tech diving or just stick with annual Caribbean fun dives. Its the wide variety of choices that different marketing messages that gets new divers stressed. I want to educate and entertain divers into smart and informed decisions, not just what the LDS sells. Thanks for the feedback and for watching PDC.
A.
@@AlecPeirceScuba_SeaHunter You do a great job. Love your show. 👍🏻
Which regulator is your favorite?
@@John-sn4hl I don’t have a favorite. I’m well-beyond brand/model loyalty.
Thanks Alec.
Wish I seen this video before I bought the same Mares regulator in your video (Din version)
I would like to ask, what's the size of the O - Ring for this DIN regulator, there is an o ring in the first stage.
Manufacturer refused to inform me about the size and that I take it to their official distributor for a check.
If there is a problem with the unit, do get it checked by a service pro. There are several o-rings in the 1st stage. As a Service Tech I don't give out specifics without the reg in my hands to protect the diver andy myself. Kind of like how doctors don't tell patients how to remove tumors as someone will try it themselves and blame others for their problems. Dive safe Jaber.
@@AlecPeirceScuba_SeaHunter I understand , thank you.
A technician in a diving center had a look and simply changed it for me. It was rubber and told it's easy to change. He doesn't memorise the size, and promised to bring a silicone back up for me.
There is nothing wrong with the regulator, it's new. I forgot to purge the second stage after taking out the first stage from the tank, and then lost the original din o ring.
I want a ScubACME regulator 😄🤙
I'll have a coyote deliver it!
Alec Peirce Scuba Thank you very much 😊
Idk man. I think the best regulator is one you wont have to upgrade as your diving progresses. An unbalanced piston yoke regulator may not be appropriate if the diver ends up deciding they want to venture into tech or cold water. So why not spend a few extra bucks on a regulator you're not going to have to replace or upgrade? I mean this is life support equipment we're talking about.
True Kyle but diving, like many sports. You start with what you can afford, then one with more features (or on sale), then the one that will satisfy your diving for decades. I know as I had hundreds of regulators, each with good/bad points but I loved all of them.
@@AlecPeirceScuba_SeaHunter you're actually spending more money that way. If I buy a $300 regulator then in 2 years have to buy a $700 regulator then I've spent a grand on regulators. It's cheaper in the long run to save up just a bit more and buy something that will last. Replacing thousands of dollars worth of gear so that you can advance to the next level of diving absolutely sucks.
@@KB-gd6fc or you could do what I did (twice already). I spent $140 on a New Old Stock (NOS) brand name regulator (Aeris which is Oceanic) pretty much top of the line (balanced diaphragm, Environmental Seal, M-Flex Hose, Ventury and easy adjustment breathing effort underwater) and 5 ports (I have a drysuit) about 2 years ago and I already have 80+ dives on it... yeah might be harder to get parts/serviced but at that price I have a few spares (for kids) and I can buy a reg for less than it takes to service my octo anyway (150+). So many people buy the "top of the line price" because they THINK they might be constrained later... then they barely dive at all... been diving for 40 years and never felt limited, and don't see why this would be different.
@@alaind831 as far as regulators go it sounds like you got a great reg that wouldn't constrain you at all. (Though I'm not familiar with that brand)
I'm not advocating to arbitrarily blow money on the most expensive gear one can buy. I just think there is something to be said for planning your purchases, researching, and thinking about your future and making sure you're not going to out grow your gear too quickly.
Look at the backplate wing discussion for example. Most divers eventually end up in a backplate wing if they stick to the sport... so why not start with that?
@@KB-gd6fc it is also depending on how many time you gonna use the thing. if you get 700 one and use 1 time, you spend 700 for reg. while you spend only 300 if you get the 300 one. this example is extreme case so.. just example/
Here's a question Alec. I have a pair of Tusa RS-790 regs (Scubapro Mk17/S550 clones) and they're sweet. However the exhaust guides are extremely short and end up blowing bubbles in front of my eyes or just under my hood right into my ears which does get annoying - believe me. My question is - is there anything that I can do to the second stages to change that? Can I take an exhaust guide out of a different regulator and try to squeeze it on? Can I somehow extend the one that is on it or have a longer one custom made? It's not exactly a very safety critical piece of the regulator so I'm willing to try and do something about it. Thanks for the excellent tips as usual.
There is not much you can do to extend the exhaust ports other than convert to a double hose (see my videos on vintage and the modern Kraken). Makers know its a problem sometimes but there is little demand for these. Suggestion is to try a more head down orientation so bubbles go up your neck not by your eyes. Also try tucking your chin in more (helps some divers) to direct bubbles away. Hope these little ideas help. You can also post this problem on www.scubaboard.com to see what other solutions are suggested.
A
@@AlecPeirceScuba_SeaHunter Thank you very much sir, invaluable advice as usual :)
I understand what what a balanced first stage is and how it works but Ive come across references to “balanced second stages”. Whats that all about? Aren’t they all fundamentally the same aside from venturi assists and a knob for adjusting breathing effort?
First stages are balanced or not, into the low pressure hose. Second stages are 'tuned' or balanced for easiest breathing like with a venture knob or similar.
Alec Peirce Scuba Thanks Alec thats what i thought. John
Alec, I have a Dacor 900 reg with a Pacer 2nd/Octo. Can I get a rebuild for the 2nd stage? Strange enough, I see a bunch of kits for the 1st stage, but nothing for the 2nd. Any ideas or solutions, short of taking to a service guy that's gonna charge more than a new one cost to service? After watching your videos, I have disassembled and "serviced my Mares and US Diver. Please help.
Well first I suggest watching my Vintage Scuba video S07E09 Servicing Vintage Regulators. I show a Dacor Pacer 900 reg I serviced and restored to excellent condition. It can be done, not by me as I sold all my parts and tools, but there are places to contact for help. My friend at VintageDoubleHose.com recommends you contact: Jerrie Struble at diver1969s@yahoo.com. He services many vintage and near-vintage models, like Dacor so start with him to get your regs ready for safe diving again. Thanks for watching and good luck.
I am thinking about buying a Mares Rover regulator. But how would an entry level regulator perform in Canadian waters even in summer since the water here is cooler than in the tropics?
Most new regs are rated to 50F temperature but check with dive operators on bottom temps before diving. I know inside the Niagara II it can be below 50F in summer so don’t get a free flow.
A
@AlecPeirceScuba_SeaHunter you are right. Dan's dive shop recommended that I buy something more efficient in cold water than the Rover regulator. Thanks
Like a car, some are more expensive to service or it is hard to find a technician. You might spend $300 for the initial purchase but it needs to be serviced annually and the service parts plus labour will cost you $100. So after 12 years you might spend $1500 maintaining it. But another regulator system might cost $600 for the initial purchase but it needs to be serviced every 3 years. The service parts might be $120. You'd only have to service it 4 times in 12 years for $480 + $600 for the initial purchase or a total of $1280. Plus every 3 years you would spend $300 to service the cheaper regulator and only $120 for the more expensive regulator.
Now the opposite could be true. I had a regulator which cost me $250, parts and service were $50 and it needed annual servicing. After 10 years I spent $750. I've seen some regulators which cost $800, required service annually and service was $180. So after 10 years the expensive regulator was $2600.
Finally, sometimes money is no object and it is more about reliability. In almost everywhere in the world I go, I can find parts for the really expensive regulator. If I'm in the middle of some remote location and my regulator needs servicing. I'm 10 hours away from any populated area. But the dive shop I'm at has parts and a good technician. If it is a 23 hour flight home. Then it might not matter that I require $2600 every 10 years to service it.
Bottom line, how much it costs to service the regulator and how easy it is to find a good technician might be why you buy one regulator than another.
Well said Darrell. Look back at a previous tech tip video on service costs over time vs purchase price. Can't remember the name but hope it gives you a smile on this subject.
In some cases it would make more economic sense to 'retire" the cheapo reg every 3 years and replace it with new cheapo reg rather than service it every year at very high cost and delays and chance the tech is incompetent and will kill you. goes against common sense and I notice some manufacturers have lengthened their service periods.
Obviously, some brands are better than others. I've been seeing Sea Elite while searching for a regulator and I've seen mixed reviews. I'm trying to decide between a sea elite and a Mares. Any thoughts?
Think about parts and service when you are diving in parts unknown.
When you are in Honduras or Fiji what is going to be easier to get parts for?
Mares has been around decades and is well known despite not being one of the biggest companies. I have never heard of Sea Elite. It would be a lot easier to maintain the Mares. It you buy a Toyota you can get parts until it falls apart, right. Not so for the Chevy I once had. Parts were very hard to obtain.
never heard of Sea Elite before........ so that's something.
Each brand has more/less/different features than the next with some having a much better reputation among its customers. When all features are the same, my pick is the one with easy/available service where I dive. Thanks for watching.
I want to choose between the Aqua lung Legend and the Mk25. I’m 61 padi certified. However just getting back into the game after 12 years. So which first stage is the one I should consider most ?
Ps. New subscriber
Let me welcome you back into diving and in 12 years a lot of gear changes has happened (for the better). I'm not into recommending gear without a lot of input from the user to understand your budget, diving types (cold, deep, warm, shallow, etc, occasional, tech, etc.). So just some basics before visiting your local dive shop. The MK25 EVO is an overbalanced piston first stage whereas the Aqualung Legend LX is an overbalanced diaphragm first stage. Each is a great 1st stage but there are features you may want/not want such as the Aqualung Auto Closure Device (ACD). Look back through my playlist for videos on: piston vs diaphragm, Aqualung ACD, cold water diving for information on the pros/cons of each. What you should also be concerned about is the 2nd stage breathing effort and features. Hope this helps get you started and get wet soon.
A.
Can you use the $300 regulator for tech diving?
Tech diving is a term to get you to buy more crap that you will probably never notice. People have been tech diving for 40years it was called exploration in deep water. If your reg breaths the same at 100ft looking up then it's probably all you will ever need unless you are in cold water which I can't imagine ever doing again since I'm in fl.
@@ts440s thanks my friend. I live in Vancouver so the water is almost always cold. I am contemplating to get the Apeks XL4+ , mainly for cave dives,and maybe wreck diving. I don't want my reg to be faulty once I am deep in a cave.
You have lots of feedback from the tec side so listen to them but make up your own mind. Check the regs max depth limit and how it breaths at 130' before taking it deeper. Also tec have many more backup/redundant gear to protect you from any failure. Have fun Roozy.
I've used regulators less expensive than that in temperatures they were not certified for up to 55 meters. They performed just as they were supposed to. Just bring two on potentially dangerous dives: twin tanks or even better sidemount. In my opinion, it's better to have two "cheap" separate systems than one "premium". There's less chance to have two regs failing than one, no matter the price range. If you can and want to spend more on regulators, that's perfectly okay: they're prettier, well built and nice to breathe from. But don't believe the guys who tell you that you absolutely need a pair of titanium scubapro mk25s or Apeks for "tech". A pair of aqua lung calypsos will do the job. What matters is training and redundancy, the rest is luxury (which is nice, by the way!)
@@scubaclient355 How so? Apart from the lip covers, I don't really see ergonomic improvements on certified cold water regulators vs entry level ones. The main changes on regulators (high end vs low end) are in my opinion fit and finish, ease of breathing (with sometimes an adjustment lever for that), materials used (metal body for the second stage instead of plastic). I have -so far- never seen a regulator where the purge button was hard to find and operate even with dry gloves, no matter the price range.
There is NO best regulator. There is only the best regulator for YOU.
Well said.
Does none adjustable secound stage mean just don't have adjust knob but can be adjusted taking off hose
If I understand your question is that all second stages are adjustable to match the IP in the hose (remember IP can change slightly between 1st stage manufacturers. It is adjusted by a service tech with special tools then pressure tested before diving. Adjusting by the old hose off/adjust/on/test/repeat is slow and not as exact as an in-line adjuster.
Just wondering .. did Sears and Roebuck sell scuba equipment?
Absolutely. Watch my Vintage Scuba S09E02 Sears 1957 Scuba Gear. Lots of fun buying from a catalog back then. Enjoy.
A.
Buy HOG. Best bang for your buck 💪🏻
I like bacon too.
A
I've also heard the same being said about sea elite...and seac.. and palantic.
Can you make a video about fullface mask please?!
On my future ideas list Robert.
Are used regulators and have it service a good choice for beginners to start money wise?
They sure are. Few divers start with all the gear they want new and shinny. Search my videos as i did on used gear tips.
A
I wouldn't buy one which is far too cheap. Sure it would be a perfect one for $80, but I personally wouldn't trust one which is $70.
I wonder if you could recommend a good regulator?
All the major scuba brands have great products from basic to the super shinny chrome regs. Pick your budget then go shopping. It's like buying a car, you want a Porche but your budget is a Honda, don't stress about what you can't get. In a few years a great deal may come along for the new 2030 regs. In my many decades, I dove about 50+ regs so get one you like and works for your type of diving. Take care Ben.
Dacor Pacer: Hold my beer
I'll take one.
A
I’m building my own regulator system and thinking about having transmitters without spg’s, my question is if my computer support more than pne transmitter does it necessary support twin cylinder sidemount ??
I know the Garmin MK2i will follow Garmin 4 transmitters. Good to keep track of a small group or 2 sets of twins. Look into it my friend.
A.
Shearwater supports two transmitter.
@@AlecPeirceScuba_SeaHunter but it doesn’t support sidemount configuration
@@addictedtopussy69 shearwater AI you mean ?
@@mohannadalhammadi Yes the Shearwater Perdix AI can receive 2 transmitter. The new Shearwater Teric can have 4 transmitters. Shearwater is the benchmark for dive computers.
What about titanium regulators vs the rest?
Titanium resists corrosion better and is lighter than any other metal when making a scuba regulator. Downside is cost, they are generally the most expensive regs to buy from $1,500 and up. Think of them as a Bugatti Veyron, super cool but still takes you from A to B at the same speed limit as everyone else.
just gimmick ... no need.
Hi alec..how about mk25 evo a700? Since you mention about mk25 s600 being the best
Already answered this.
Hi Alec! It's always me, your Italian fan!
I have just finished to watch all of your tech tips and I came back here to write to you about a doubt I have.
I do 60 metres normoxic trimix dives and so I have different regulators.
On my deco bottles i have Scubapro MK20/MK25 with G250V and love them.
On my twinset I have Apeks XTX50 DST and... I am now a little bit concerned about their safety because I discovered that they don't have a 'changeable' hp valve seat... So there is always some creep in the ip that could lead to freeflow. My local service man doesn't like Apeks regulators for this reason (except the XTX200 FSR because it has a 'changeable' hp valve seat).
I am now thinking in selling them and buy all Scubapro MK25...
What are your thoughts about it?
Have you ever seen a problem of poor hp valve seal on Apeks regulators with non-changeable valve seat?
Maybe I'm getting paranoid but I hope you understand, I would like to feel secure about my bottom regulators.
I wrote to you because I trust you :)
Mattia
Good to hear from you Mattia.
For the benefit of viewers, the 1st stage has a High Pressure (HP) valve. The valve has 2 seats that meet to control the air. Most regulators have a hard, non-replaceable seat PLUS a soft, replaceable seat. A few regulators have both seats replaceable. Some have none that are replaceable. In every service, the HP seat needs to be replaced or renewed since the operation of the regulator makes a permanent indentation in the seat. It's impossible to reassemble the HP valve such that the indentation is in the prior identical position. Any attempt to do so will lead to leaks or creep.
Apeks are good regulators but, as with all regs, have their own unique issues.
The Scubapro MK 25 is simply unbeatable. It is affordable, easy to service & utterly reliable in all diving scenarios.
I do not want to tell you to get rid of your Apeks and get the MK25 but, if you have the resources to do so and are looking for confidence, do it.
Take care.
Alec
@@AlecPeirceScuba_SeaHunter Alec, you are the best mentor! Your answers are always detailed and I really want to remember you how much I appreciate what you do, you're my idol!
I am now basically sold on exchanging my regs to Scubapro!
I would like to ask a few more things if you don't mind:
1) Is the Scubapro MK19 (I like it because it has the same routing of hoses as the MK25 but it's a diaphragm regulator) as 'unbeatable' (to use your words) as the MK25? Would you consider it (here in Italy, diving more during summer, water doesn't get often below 15 °C) over the MK25?
2) These first stages (both MK25 and MK19) come in the basic chrome version (I know you're a fan of chrome because I watched your videos :) ) and in a DLC (diamond-like carbon) black tech. Have you ever heard about the black tech treatment come loose/descolouring/something like that?
Asking a so experienced diver/serviceman like you makes me feel much more comfortable :)
Hi Alec! I hope you're fine :)
It's always me, your Italian fan!
I can imagine that shooting videos, answering comments and... being The Talent is not easy at all!!
It must be very time consuming...
I just wanted to try to get your attention to this previous comment of mine about MK25/MK19 regulators.
Stay safe and... Thank you!! :)
Mattia
Is there really such thing as 'cold water' rated regulators?
Only if you believe the marketing hype. Most regs are ok to 50F / 10C then the risk of a free flow increases as water temp decreases. Watch video S07E02, Prepping for Cold Water Diving for suggestions on regs and S08E05 Why does my regulator freeze? These should answer most of your questions Clint.
If your primary diving will be in cold water.. purchase a cold water regulator. i think it's in your best interest.
Buy the "rental" regulator model from the brand you like, or the one just above it; these will breathe easy, be tough, and cheap and easy to service. Anything more is a waste of money.
Nice tip, thanks for sharing.
A
It's mad that people will pay $800+ for an a-clamp reg
You must be from outside North America. Yokes are almost 100% of recreational diving here. Few have even seen a DIN here so my videos have educated a lot of divers on both sides. Safe diving Jon.
I'm not worried about buying the "best" regulator, but I am worried about buying the "worst" regulator. $60 regulators from China are readily available.
As I said before, if it cannot be serviced easily, avoid it. What if you're on a dive in Indonesia on a live aboard and it fails, no parts for it so have to rent.
Mk 2 is not a piston regulator, is is a diaphragm regulator.
Taken from Scubapro:
"The MK2 EVO is the only downstream piston-style first stage with internal components specifically designed to resist freezing in extreme cold-water conditions."
They do have both models.
I have 4 MK 2 regulators and they are all piston first stages.
You talk kind of like the Paul Harrell but if he was interested in scuba diving instead of guns.
Paul was a character but knew guns very well.
False. This video is fake news. The ScubaPro S620 Ti is the best. Nothing else comes close.
Please re-watch this as you missed a key point.
A