working on my own power drawbar and it looks like you beat me to it. I tried this method last year but couldn't get it to work, the tool was really seated in the worse taper. Really glad you got it work work. Cheers
I'm sure you'll come up with a better version that I can copy 😆 The main issue is the tightness of the taper fights the quill lock, my solution works most of the time but occasionally it still needs gentle percussive persuasion.
I see! Interesting approach. Do you always let the motor spin up before grabbing the handle? I reckon the drive board may not like starting into a stalled state. I've been trying to imagineer a similar method to the BT/iso style drawbars where you can use Belleville washers and a push action to release the taper.... 🤔
Yes, I let it spin up a bit but the newer sx3 controller boards handle stall currents and cut-off on overload. I did think about using washers and a 2 stage lever. I didn't need it after I tried this.
One thing you need is to tweak the quill lock so it's very tight. Otherwise the quill will be pushed down when you're trying to eject the tool in taper. If you have an R8 then it'd be much better.
That happens when you over tighten the tool holder in the taper. In those cases, best to remove the drawbar out and use a dedicated round bar to tap the tool holder down with a dead blow hammer. Morse taper is used for lateral and angular force, drawbar for downward force. No need to over tighten it.
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working on my own power drawbar and it looks like you beat me to it. I tried this method last year but couldn't get it to work, the tool was really seated in the worse taper. Really glad you got it work work. Cheers
I'm sure you'll come up with a better version that I can copy 😆
The main issue is the tightness of the taper fights the quill lock, my solution works most of the time but occasionally it still needs gentle percussive persuasion.
Nice Design, Looks like it works quite well.
yes, it's a small change to the existing design that makes it very easy now to change tools.
I see! Interesting approach. Do you always let the motor spin up before grabbing the handle? I reckon the drive board may not like starting into a stalled state. I've been trying to imagineer a similar method to the BT/iso style drawbars where you can use Belleville washers and a push action to release the taper.... 🤔
Yes, I let it spin up a bit but the newer sx3 controller boards handle stall currents and cut-off on overload. I did think about using washers and a 2 stage lever. I didn't need it after I tried this.
One thing you need is to tweak the quill lock so it's very tight. Otherwise the quill will be pushed down when you're trying to eject the tool in taper. If you have an R8 then it'd be much better.
Nice idea. Reminds me of the time I tried freeing my taper from the mill, twisted the drawbar and mashes it's threads 🙄
That happens when you over tighten the tool holder in the taper. In those cases, best to remove the drawbar out and use a dedicated round bar to tap the tool holder down with a dead blow hammer. Morse taper is used for lateral and angular force, drawbar for downward force. No need to over tighten it.