I added a corresponding Amazon affiliate link to the description. If you use the link, I receive a small commission, without affecting the price for you. There is currently an interesting offer thats includes an aditional set of spare blades. Scheppach HMS1070 Planer and Thickness Planer, Includes 1 Pair of Replacement Blades, Link: amzn.to/3PKXhJF The planner is still in action, see this video here: ruclips.net/video/aVZ35qumIWY/видео.html. A wooden bowl handcraft, carving and power tools. After the wood is prepared, it is ready for turning. Check this video to see more: ruclips.net/video/lXrDKPO4Qro/видео.html
I use the planner often to prepare my wood turning pieces. Check my wood turning videos, here is a nice resin experiment: ruclips.net/video/lXrDKPO4Qro/видео.html or this wood turrning examplee usiing a mini lathe here: ruclips.net/video/lXrDKPO4Qro/видео.html.
Are you interested in a woodworking project with your teenage kids? Here is my project proposal to motivate and keep them interested ;-) Longboard - build & bend your own custom board - Bending wood to get a curvatured body . Check the link: ruclips.net/video/cBBzY4Xsx9A/видео.html
Check also "A journey into FreeCAD" - Use case sharpening Jig - 3D PrintingA journey into FreeCAD - Use case sharpening Jig - 3D Printing ruclips.net/video/S3Uo28NvhFI/видео.html This video shows a use case using FreeCAD for modelling and preparation for 3D printing. Check also the second part and follow the link: ruclips.net/video/sifAzDYldJI/видео.html I have a look onto the different aspects of CAD modeling using FreeCAD. The use case shows the basic process steps that are necessary to use the sharpening Jig for 3D Printing.
Guys the excel model is absolutely brilliant, accurate no snipe.. much quicker in setting up from planer to thicknesser and only £300 it's by far the best budget planer on the market I highly recommend it over the titan, lumberjack and other similar models 😀
Very True . The manufacturers can Spec their machines from a ltd range of options . The Sheppach is one of the Best of these machines . Shame Axminster don't offer something similar , because they really spec their machines very well . Thanks for your comment .
I have a planer-thicknesser purchased at ALDI about 3 years ago that almost exactly the same. It works very well, has limitations but nothing has failed, still using the original blades but they are becoming dull. No doubt it is from the same manufacturer and I expect you will be as happy with it as I am with mine!
Check the blades and your required size. For example in the Scheppach store, they have some HSS blades for around 30 €. Maybe there are other sellers on Ebay, I have not checked it so far.
I will sharpen them when they are no longer usable, considering the amount of old hardwood that they have worked they are good blades! I am careful its clean timber, all the old stuff is water blasted and dried before it gets anywhere near any of my machines!
I just got this machine used. Putting a metal ruler across the tables to check if they are coplanar, it seems that the ruler lays flat near the back (close to fence) but it clearly rocks on the middle when placed near the front (closer to the operator). So the tables are skewed. In you video you wrote: "I had to spend quite an amount of time to adjust the jointer infeed and outfeed tables". How did you do that? For the infeed table at least, It seems to me like there is no adjustment - those small rectangular pieces of steel are gliding in slots made to the sheet metal and there's no room for adjustment. There's a threaded hole to attach them to the aluminum table but its not oversized. Pretty much my only idea is to drill larger holes to the aluminum tables and use a longer bolt and a nut inside the table. The outfeed table at least looked similar at a quick glance, I assumed there is no room for adjustment there either. I'd be very interested in how you adjusted these, if you can spare the time.
These are all made in the same factory in China , regardless of what Colour or who's Logo is on the side . Shame we don't the USA versions that can be ordered with Helical Cutter Blocks .
Yes and no, in the end three are base types of a machine and the quality and add-on can be customized. This means e.g. you can decide if your machine shall have a metal or plastic gear and so on.
Hi I would, but I have less time but will add this to my todo list. It´s pretty straight forward, the most important is that the plades afterwards are at the same height. There shall be some video out, for this or other consumer planers.
um so langsamer du das werkstück über die arbeitsfläche schiebst (oben) um so besser ist das ergebnis. unten beim dickenhobeln läuft das für hartholz zu schnell finde ich da habe ich immer kleine quer riefen drinn. (nur bei hartholz) aber das kann man korrigieren indem man das hartholz noch einmal ganz langsam oben drüber schiebt.
Ja korrekt, auf jeden Fall auf die Faserrichtung achten und zum Schluss hin wenige Zentel abnehmen. Da kann die kleine Maschine ganz brauchbare Oberflächen mit Hartholz liefern.
Yes, depends! In my opinion the price in relation to quality is ok. There are big differences in quality looking at the individual machine. For some the planner tables are not in line and you have to adjust them, which is diffcult. The thickener is ok. If you have a look at the grain direction, you can get pleasing result. But keep in mind, for something more reliable (not professional) you have to spend 4 times the price.
@@umlooad thanks man, I really like the idea of these combo planers but have only read bad things about the table alignment. I reckon I’ll go with a dedicated thicknesser, I have a lot of wood to plane down for shelving and alcove cupboards. Great channel btw
Hi a good point and maybe worth a video. First, it still works but I need to sharp planing knifes. I think I will use a sharping service for that. I uses the thickener function a lot, but not the planner function. The planner table need to be adjusted, but I did not take the time to figure out what and how I can adjust it. Most of the time I use it for more coarse work, preparing some wood for turning or bring to the correct thickness. Well it does the job, but you have to expect not to much from the machine. In my opinion the price in relation to the functionality was ok. But keep in mind that there can be quality differences looking at an individual machine.
@@umlooadso you still don't know how to adjust the planes of the feeder and outfeed parts? honestly, this tool is a crap. Motor kills my phi-relay at the electricity box, the planes are not leveled, the outfeed plane is held by some non-adjustable black screws that cannot hold the weight and if the support hole is a bit more wider for some models, then the plane is moving. I tried to put together one nice piece out of 4-5 another, but every time some new issue has come up. Oh, and that weak and twisted support wall is a joke. Definitely a crap.
Hi, I have the same model and my experiences are similar. How did you level the receiving and feeding table? I have slight differences between the receiving table and the knife shaft and seems no regulation there
Hello Mariusz, well there is a mechanism with two screws at the table, to adjust the position. But I had problems to fix it. I will have to take some time to figure out how it meant to be working.
I have just purchased a 1080. Am having the same problems with the tables. The in-feed table actually has a wind in it. Got a diagram from Scheppach that detailed loosening the four table mounting bolts to adjust. Have done this but still no where near true. Has anyone else had any success with theirs? Am thinking about returning it!
@@sandman2651 I did not really find a solution to this problem - I found a workaround and I'm supporting the infeed table from below with the help of a clamp transformed into an expander, taking it against the "legs" of the machine. I am able to adjust the table's parallelism more or less. Unfortunately I didn't find any other adjustment possibilities. I was wondering whether to set the table permanently - without the possibility of changing the depth of planning - but probably the solution with clamp is more flexible
I have recently bought a machine from screwfix in the uk and the top tables both slope towards the cutting blade could you please explain how you reset yours please
Hi Rocketman, I still facing the same issue. I tried to fix it, but I can´t eliminate the overall problem. I´m currently very busy and this will take some time. The Scheppach support sended me a picture of two screws that should be used to adjust the table, but it didn´t work for me. Therefore I have to spend more time to solve it.
@@umlooad I have now returned it and returned the replacement one as well both had same problems screwfix had no issue on giving a refund which was good,thanks for taing the time to reply
Sorry to hear that you had a lot of trouble with the machine. I will pick this issue up with one of my next video´s. Unfortunately the production quality in this segment is very volatile. I think in the end you have to spend more money to be on the save side. Would be interesting to hear what´s your next choice. Good luck with the next buy.
All of them have this flaw, "high tech" product of Germanistan. Forget it, you cannot adjust the planes. There's a video of a guy trying to make another hole in the body and use a flat metal part as a new support for the screws. I would just frickin sue them for stealing my money.
That´s for sure. But not all machines in this price segment are equal. My experience with that machine is, that it is sufficient for a time-to-time hobby use. I still face some problems with the orientation of the planner table and you have to spend some time to maintain the machine (always use sharp planner blades). But well, for the price I can´t complain.
I have the HMS 2000 model of this and may I say it is a heap of crap. Have had it about 3 years and not used it for 2 years, It sits in the garage, The tables do not line up, the machine get quite hot after a while, if you set the fence to 90deg it is never the same on both tables. The biggest gripe I had was the soft blades which blunt straight away, I bought 3 extra sets the time I used it, (£38 per set). I was not happy at all. I ended up getting a dedicated thicknesser by Triton and the blades are a much better quality steel, double sided blades and a better machine altogether !! I will never use the HMS 2000 again.
Sorry for you, there are big differences in quality between the individual machines. If you think how much money left for the producer and the parts, if you subtract the share for trading and shipping. Well it's not a wonder, in the end you have to spend 6-to 8 times the price to get something reliable and much more for a professional machine. I still use mine, beside similar limitations that you described, but only for some special task and not for everyday use.
Exactly the same issues with HMS 1080. I will avoid this brand at all cost! What is the model of your new choiice? I need to have something to work with. Thanks.
@@fulesmackofule Hi The thicknesst/Planer I use now is the ''Triton TPT125 317mm Electric Planer Thicknesser 240V''. At the moment it sells for between £300/£400, Screwfix being the most expensive. (as usual).
I added a corresponding Amazon affiliate link to the description. If you use the link, I receive a small commission, without affecting the price for you. There is currently an interesting offer thats includes an aditional set of spare blades. Scheppach HMS1070 Planer and Thickness Planer, Includes 1 Pair of Replacement Blades, Link: amzn.to/3PKXhJF
The planner is still in action, see this video here: ruclips.net/video/aVZ35qumIWY/видео.html.
A wooden bowl handcraft, carving and power tools. After the wood is prepared, it is ready for turning. Check this video to see more: ruclips.net/video/lXrDKPO4Qro/видео.html
Check also my latest video
"Makita RT0700CX2J Router Review - MAKPAC and use cases"
ruclips.net/video/dcbYDKIF3y4/видео.html.
I use the planner often to prepare my wood turning pieces. Check my wood turning videos, here is a nice resin experiment: ruclips.net/video/lXrDKPO4Qro/видео.html
or this wood turrning examplee usiing a mini lathe here: ruclips.net/video/lXrDKPO4Qro/видео.html.
Are you interested in a woodworking project with your teenage kids? Here is my project proposal to motivate and keep them interested ;-)
Longboard - build & bend your own custom board - Bending wood to get a curvatured body
. Check the link: ruclips.net/video/cBBzY4Xsx9A/видео.html
Check also "A journey into FreeCAD" - Use case sharpening Jig - 3D PrintingA journey into FreeCAD - Use case sharpening Jig - 3D Printing ruclips.net/video/S3Uo28NvhFI/видео.html
This video shows a use case using FreeCAD for modelling and preparation for 3D printing.
Check also the second part and follow the link: ruclips.net/video/sifAzDYldJI/видео.html
I have a look onto the different aspects of CAD modeling using FreeCAD. The use case shows the basic process steps that are necessary to use the sharpening Jig for 3D Printing.
Guys the excel model is absolutely brilliant, accurate no snipe.. much quicker in setting up from planer to thicknesser and only £300 it's by far the best budget planer on the market I highly recommend it over the titan, lumberjack and other similar models 😀
The planner is still in action, see this video here: ruclips.net/video/aVZ35qumIWY/видео.html. A wooden bowl handcraft, carving and power tools
Very True . The manufacturers can Spec their machines from a ltd range of options . The Sheppach is one of the Best of these machines . Shame Axminster don't offer something similar , because they really spec their machines very well . Thanks for your comment .
I have a planer-thicknesser purchased at ALDI about 3 years ago that almost exactly the same. It works very well, has limitations but nothing has failed, still using the original blades but they are becoming dull. No doubt it is from the same manufacturer and I expect you will be as happy with it as I am with mine!
Check the blades and your required size. For example in the Scheppach store, they have some HSS blades for around 30 €. Maybe there are other sellers on Ebay, I have not checked it so far.
I will sharpen them when they are no longer usable, considering the amount of old hardwood that they have worked they are good blades! I am careful its clean timber, all the old stuff is water blasted and dried before it gets anywhere near any of my machines!
Thanks for the review straight to the point👍
Thank you for an informative video - I am thinking of buying this machine.
I just got this machine used. Putting a metal ruler across the tables to check if they are coplanar, it seems that the ruler lays flat near the back (close to fence) but it clearly rocks on the middle when placed near the front (closer to the operator). So the tables are skewed.
In you video you wrote: "I had to spend quite an amount of time to adjust the jointer infeed and outfeed tables". How did you do that? For the infeed table at least, It seems to me like there is no adjustment - those small rectangular pieces of steel are gliding in slots made to the sheet metal and there's no room for adjustment. There's a threaded hole to attach them to the aluminum table but its not oversized. Pretty much my only idea is to drill larger holes to the aluminum tables and use a longer bolt and a nut inside the table. The outfeed table at least looked similar at a quick glance, I assumed there is no room for adjustment there either. I'd be very interested in how you adjusted these, if you can spare the time.
These are all made in the same factory in China , regardless of what Colour or who's Logo is on the side . Shame we don't the USA versions that can be ordered with Helical Cutter Blocks .
Yes and no, in the end three are base types of a machine and the quality and add-on can be customized. This means e.g. you can decide if your machine shall have a metal or plastic gear and so on.
Are you able to give a guide on how to change the blades on this machine please? I'm going to buy a used one, but the blades need changing.
Hi I would, but I have less time but will add this to my todo list. It´s pretty straight forward, the most important is that the plades afterwards are at the same height. There shall be some video out, for this or other consumer planers.
um so langsamer du das werkstück über die arbeitsfläche schiebst (oben) um so besser ist das ergebnis. unten beim dickenhobeln läuft das für hartholz zu schnell finde ich da habe ich immer kleine quer riefen drinn. (nur bei hartholz) aber das kann man korrigieren indem man das hartholz noch einmal ganz langsam oben drüber schiebt.
Ja korrekt, auf jeden Fall auf die Faserrichtung achten und zum Schluss hin wenige Zentel abnehmen. Da kann die kleine Maschine ganz brauchbare Oberflächen mit Hartholz liefern.
great video - my big question is would you buy one of these combi machines again or would you go for a dedicated thicknesser?
Yes, depends! In my opinion the price in relation to quality is ok. There are big differences in quality looking at the individual machine. For some the planner tables are not in line and you have to adjust them, which is diffcult. The thickener is ok. If you have a look at the grain direction, you can get pleasing result. But keep in mind, for something more reliable (not professional) you have to spend 4 times the price.
@@umlooad thanks man, I really like the idea of these combo planers but have only read bad things about the table alignment. I reckon I’ll go with a dedicated thicknesser, I have a lot of wood to plane down for shelving and alcove cupboards. Great channel btw
Hi. How have you found the Planner thickneser now you've used it for a while? Thanks
Hi a good point and maybe worth a video. First, it still works but I need to sharp planing knifes. I think I will use a sharping service for that. I uses the thickener function a lot, but not the planner function. The planner table need to be adjusted, but I did not take the time to figure out what and how I can adjust it. Most of the time I use it for more coarse work, preparing some wood for turning or bring to the correct thickness. Well it does the job, but you have to expect not to much from the machine. In my opinion the price in relation to the functionality was ok. But keep in mind that there can be quality differences looking at an individual machine.
@@umlooadso you still don't know how to adjust the planes of the feeder and outfeed parts? honestly, this tool is a crap. Motor kills my phi-relay at the electricity box, the planes are not leveled, the outfeed plane is held by some non-adjustable black screws that cannot hold the weight and if the support hole is a bit more wider for some models, then the plane is moving. I tried to put together one nice piece out of 4-5 another, but every time some new issue has come up. Oh, and that weak and twisted support wall is a joke. Definitely a crap.
Hi, I have the same model and my experiences are similar.
How did you level the receiving and feeding table? I have slight differences between the receiving table and the knife shaft and seems no regulation there
Hello Mariusz, well there is a mechanism with two screws at the table, to adjust the position. But I had problems to fix it. I will have to take some time to figure out how it meant to be working.
hello i notice from what you have said about infeed and outfeed table that my machine has same issue,how did you fix yours ?
I have just purchased a 1080. Am having the same problems with the tables. The in-feed table actually has a wind in it. Got a diagram from Scheppach that detailed loosening the four table mounting bolts to adjust. Have done this but still no where near true. Has anyone else had any success with theirs? Am thinking about returning it!
@@sandman2651 I did not really find a solution to this problem - I found a workaround and I'm supporting the infeed table from below with the help of a clamp transformed into an expander, taking it against the "legs" of the machine.
I am able to adjust the table's parallelism more or less. Unfortunately I didn't find any other adjustment possibilities. I was wondering whether to set the table permanently - without the possibility of changing the depth of planning - but probably the solution with clamp is more flexible
I have recently bought a machine from screwfix in the uk and the top tables both slope towards the cutting blade could you please explain how you reset yours please
Hi Rocketman, I still facing the same issue. I tried to fix it, but I can´t eliminate the overall problem. I´m currently very busy and this will take some time. The Scheppach support sended me a picture of two screws that should be used to adjust the table, but it didn´t work for me. Therefore I have to spend more time to solve it.
@@umlooad I have now returned it and returned the replacement one as well both had same problems screwfix had no issue on giving a refund which was good,thanks for taing the time to reply
Sorry to hear that you had a lot of trouble with the machine. I will pick this issue up with one of my next video´s. Unfortunately the production quality in this segment is very volatile. I think in the end you have to spend more money to be on the save side. Would be interesting to hear what´s your next choice. Good luck with the next buy.
@@umlooad Really not sure what to buy next as i dont have lots of money.May have to look for secondhand maybe?hope you sort yours
All of them have this flaw, "high tech" product of Germanistan. Forget it, you cannot adjust the planes. There's a video of a guy trying to make another hole in the body and use a flat metal part as a new support for the screws. I would just frickin sue them for stealing my money.
I wonder where it has been produced in china or ?
That´s for sure. But not all machines in this price segment are equal. My experience with that machine is, that it is sufficient for a time-to-time hobby use. I still face some problems with the orientation of the planner table and you have to spend some time to maintain the machine (always use sharp planner blades). But well, for the price I can´t complain.
Extractor on the top is backwards
Here we have different working directions using the planer or the thickener.
This is exactly the same as the Triton from screwfix.. Only Triton is cheaper
I have the HMS 2000 model of this and may I say it is a heap of crap. Have had it about 3 years and not used it for 2 years, It sits in the garage, The tables do not line up, the machine get quite hot after a while, if you set the fence to 90deg it is never the same on both tables. The biggest gripe I had was the soft blades which blunt straight away, I bought 3 extra sets the time I used it, (£38 per set). I was not happy at all. I ended up getting a dedicated thicknesser by Triton and the blades are a much better quality steel, double sided blades and a better machine altogether !! I will never use the HMS 2000 again.
Sorry for you, there are big differences in quality between the individual machines. If you think how much money left for the producer and the parts, if you subtract the share for trading and shipping. Well it's not a wonder, in the end you have to spend 6-to 8 times the price to get something reliable and much more for a professional machine. I still use mine, beside similar limitations that you described, but only for some special task and not for everyday use.
Exactly the same issues with HMS 1080. I will avoid this brand at all cost!
What is the model of your new choiice? I need to have something to work with. Thanks.
@@fulesmackofule Hi The thicknesst/Planer I use now is the ''Triton TPT125 317mm Electric Planer Thicknesser 240V''. At the moment it sells for between £300/£400, Screwfix being the most expensive. (as usual).