Just a friendly little tip my friend. Let your concrete come above the ground and taper it downward to the ground, this allows water to shed away from the post like it should. If your concrete is below ground water will sit on top of it and it will rot the post in time. Taper it and you will not have that problem. I enjoyed watching your video.
Could’ve said it better myself is exactly what I was going to say. I had a fencing company and if you get it above the hole like that waterproof shout out no matter how long it rains or if you’re in a snow zone.
To everyone bashing this guy he is just showing some Slightly old school technique. It may not be perfect but at least He's still out there working and living his best life. This is still better than seventy five percent of the stuff on the internet right now.
What mistake(s) did he make? I mean personally I put gravel at the bottom, tar any wood below ground level, create a ramp of concrete at ground level to shed water away from post, char the above ground wood to protect from insects and then slather a diesel and oil mix on to preserve wood, and finally put a metal cap on top to keep the rain out of the end grain.
@@Renegade2023 My parents divorced when I was two years old. I grow up with my mum (never been in touch with my father) . My mum passed away when I was 17 and I just heard last year that my dad died as well.
i kinda relate, never knew my father, and my mother passed away, tbh it didnt hurt since she was a b*, now im learning all by myself, and at 28 with 2 sons im kinda of a perfectionist in everything i know@@ciprianion4142
Advise to make it the best it can be. If using wood posts. Never have base exposed. If you do use pea gravel. If you dont water will wick up the post and rot out. Second, concrete should finish above the dirt and form the concrete to a cone shape to weep water away from post. Lastly if you really want it to last. They make a wrap or paint that you paint the post with that goes into the concrete. Jist what ive learned over the years
You got it! Thick silicone where the wood and concrete meet. Then paint it. I don't recommend putting posts in concrete tho. If you are using regular wood, burn 8" down and 2" above the ground level. Soak the post in oil. In that same area, paint it with hot tar and wrap it in aluminum. Posts only rot near the ground level, not 3 feet deep. The aluminum protects the tar, and the burning keeps the bugs from wanting to eat the post. The oil does the same thing. Now, do 5 coats of thick oil based paint. Now do the rest of the 500 posts! Don't use concrete, use crushed limestone screenings. Instead of the rock of the bottom, you can pour a small concrete base. You are welcome
@@yodaddy82daddy70 probably not. Used motor with diesel mixed would work good and cheap! Put the bottom of the post in a barrel of oil for a week or 3, to really soak it in. Also makes a great stain for a wooden fence. Cheap. Add some black wood stain into the oil if you want it even darker
I always wrap the part in dirt with 3 or 3 wraps of roofing tar paper before concrete. It's really cheap, protects the wood, and it seems I always have some leftovers in the shed.
Great vid, setting posts in concrete is old school but also relatively cheap and easy. If you’re going to do this method and you plan on working with concrete again, I suggest investing in a vibratory rod. Vibrating the concrete before it sets helps remove any air voids that would otherwise reduce the overall strength of the finish concrete.
I love how you do videos like this. So many of us were never taught by our own families to do these activities. Many do not have the family to show them either. Thank you for these videos. Your an amazing internet father
I dry set 200 posts. Had them all in perfect alignment using two strings. With the cc dry you can shiny and pack to perfection. Never even added water. Still sets up rock solid. Much easier
Watch out, professionals will criticize how you do it 😂😂😂. Look, if it works, it works! Keep doing you and keep up the great work! Stay safe and Happy Building 😁
This may be just me but I’ve set a lot of posts and I did it with dry right out of the bag into the hole. It will draw moisture from the soil and set up fine. Only things I didn’t do was put a rock or gravel in the bottom and didn’t get my concrete above the soil, those are good advice. I also have made a lot of my concrete from dense grade. If you have a rock quarry close they can help you. 6 shovels of dense grade to 1 shovel of cement makes a great concrete. I’ve done this 1980 and I loved it. Oh! One more little thing, I used a 1/4 inch rod, electric fence rod is perfect and when your post is plumb run the rod up and down around your post and this will get air pockets out and your post is solid. Poor man’s concrete or I liked lazy man’s concrete lol
Now, to make that post last a long time. Do this... 1. Over fill the hole and slope it away from the post to ensure good drainage. 2. When it is almost set take a large nail head and scratch a groove between the post and concrete 3. After it is set, use a good exterior caulk in the groove. Wood & concrete expand at different rates. The caulked grove will flex and keep that joint tight and keep out the water.
If you really want it to look nice, do the corner post first. Then run a string Line from them then when you plume the rest of them you will have a nice straight fence.😁
Correct. Or as I do run the top plank as that gets the posts on the right square. A string works also as you say but your plank before it sets gives some rigidity as well as square
Yup first day for me on a fence job is augering all the holes and then getting the corners set. String 2nd day and set rest of the posts to it. 3rd day fencing goes up.
I learned years ago from a fence guy to pour the dry concrete in the hole and then add water on top. This way the concrete expands into the hole. If you put it in wet, it could shrink and leave wiggle room. Works great.
@@redbovinethe purpose of adding water if you have quickset post concrete is it sets hard fast and you can go ahead and attach the fence right away with no worry about throwing it out of plumb.
also 10x cheaper and easier for him to do... so did he tell you to pay him less too? has he ever been back? its buried, ypu have no idea man. gullible as day=long
@@summoner9924 Settle down, buddy. I did the work myself and he came and helped for free. He worked part time for me at UPS and managed a fence company during the day.
Built fences for years. Stopped premixing the concrete and adding the supports once I learned both are unnecessary steps. Put the post in the ground holding roughly level. Pour in dry concrete while spraying water into hole. Smack post into level position when finished and walk away. Never had one post move out of level. Concrete will soak up any ground moisture it needs.
Great ideas Thankyou. I have a couple acres that I want to partially fence. The entire perimiter is already fenced, but inside near the house, I want a fence 25 ft out around my house for security and my guard dogs.
Crush gravel or road base work a lot better than a rock, or at least use a few handfuls of large rocks so you’re not setting the post directly on dirt/clay. Easier to pack down, level, helps hold the post in place and offers some drainage to prevent rotting from the bottom up.
it always amazes me how much work people put into mixing ready mix concrete. try this take a 5-gallon pail put the recommended water in the pail pour the concrete in the pail et voila you have a pail of mixed concrete. it really can't get less complicated. if the soil is tight just put the water in the hole and skip the pail.
I've always poured dry mix around post then add water then poke around the post in mix with tomato stake then plumb the post. You can add to much water because any extra water the ground will absorb. Been doing it for 30 yrs on various projects. All the extra bracing is little out of hand.
Recommend extending the concrete and actually used a small form to make a square at the top so the top of the concrete is an inch or so above grade. That way, the posts are not in contact with soil ever.
I've done several posts that have lasted for 20 years, never use concrete (in Florida), it will cause premature rotting no matter how you do it (pressure treated, "mounding concrete" etc.) I use base gravel and sand, water it in and pack the crap out of it. It is as solid as concrete but allows drainage. My neighbor used concrete, and in five years or less, every post broke off at concrete/ground level.
Looks good. You won't believe me unless you read the package. I recently learned that you can pour some mix dry directly in the hole dry and then add the water on top. You can look up numerous examples online
I do the same except I add +/-gallon water half a bag concrete stab at it with a 3/8 rebar to mix slightly and pack concrete add the other half ass more water poke few more times .. done .
That looks like good way to do that job, for those who don’t have the rock or the 2 by 4s or the mixer…pour it in dry half way, wet it and plumb it… fill the hole wet again and tamp it in
Sink a strong tie metal bracket into the wet concrete and when it dries nail the post to the strong tie. We do this in Chicago because with the totally frozen ground in winter, with the thawing and freezing cycle, expansion and contraction, the post can break off in the ground in some rare cases but it will certainly rot over time and fall apart that way.
I use to build fences here In Australia where we use metrics not imperials so excuse my measurements. And our regulations for fencing posts are 2.7 metres. We use to string Line along the fence line. And measure and mark each whole to be dug at 600millimetres deep with each post at 2.7metres apart from post to post. Place the 2.7metre post in the holes. Leaving 2.1metres of play on the posts for plinths and fence palings to nail to fence. We then use the string Line to sit each post in line with the string Line using the level to centre the post. We then would chuck a ROCK or 2 on the rear and side of post in the hole and smack it down with our long level to keep the post straight with the string Line and run a level above the string Line to keep it straight in the bubble, but also straight on the side of the post by placing the level in the side and centering the bubble until the post is straight. Then add one bag of quickset concrete per post depending on on the post hole being wide and dug more than 600mm deep. Once the concrete is in we then level the post a little more. Add some water and then let the post dry. Once dry, then starts the building process. Plinths on the bottom running it straight from post to post cutting in the centre and nailing it on to the post. Then repeat along with each plinth. Once all plinths are on and it's level and straight. We have our trick of measuring each cut out for channels and the excess post at the top once the fence palings are on place our measures paling and mark out our channels to be cut for railings to sit in the post. Cutting out channels with a saw and chisel out the channels. Once done. Place our rail on and cut to fit and sit half way inside of post. And repeat along until all channels are cut out and railings are in. Once done. Then nail the fence palings on. Start at one end with one paling and nail it on. Then leave a 20mm gap then nail the second fence paling. Then place a paling in between the 2 nailed palings and nail that 3rd paling covering the hole. Repeat along. Until fence is done. Then you will have about 100mm of post siting above the fence paling. You measure on the side of the post from the top of paling and mark a line on the post on a 45 degree angle from the top of the paling to the rear of the post. Cut off. And fence done. Like your work mate.
I know everyone wants to put in their 2 cents… but, here’s mine. 1. I cut some rough notches in the base of the wood so it’s not a slick surface and to better grip the concrete 2. I add a few nails or screws to the base of wood to also better grip the concrete.
Just pour it in dry and water it brother. Works just as good. I’ve done many tests with the method for fence posts. Sounds crazy, but it’s absolutely as strong as all that work you put in with a 1/4 of effort.
Wow how nice to see someone do something correctly. Instead of some new way that doesn’t work or isn’t right. All I’d say is that you plumb a post and level a fence.
You can skip the mixer action. Cement is hydroscopic, and will evenly absorb water, so you can simply pour dry cement around the pole and wet it down with a jug of water and let it set.
I noticed cement bags labeled as “fast drying” have directions to do as you say, but the others say to premix first. I’m genuinely curious why wouldn’t they all have directions to pour the cement in the hole then pour water over?
I found here in Michigan that P gravel works great it hydrolocks itself together. I had always used concrete, a city building inspector told me about it, and it works good.
First install first and last posts, making sure they are plumb. When set, run a string on bottom between them. Run string between top of posts. Place other posts and align bottoms and tops to strings. Make sure the spacing between posts is what you want. Pour concrete on the remaining posts. Now you have a set perfect fence posts.
I just compact the dry Ready Mix around the 4 X4 fence post and as I continue working upwards I make sure the post is plumb and square. The next morning the concrete will be set up hard.
to remove air bubbles I use a stick (just stab it all around the post, air bubble create a weal spot for the concrete to break) ALSO I always crown the top so water does NOT have a chance to set and pool thus rotting out the base. I always build my frame and then pour my concrete, this helps to keep it stable and I only need the front to back 2by4's plus it lessens the stress on the concrete when I'm adding my pickets OH and I screw EVERYTHING nail will work their way out but screws won't, and if you predrill a hole its less likely to split the ends
@@Z.the.G Yes creosote works great. Soaking the post in diesel a few times works well too, adding a couple shovels of gravel to the bottom of the hole helps (or a rock), and or charring the portion that comes in contact with the ground (and 8" above) are options that can make a very big difference in longevity (up to 100 years), but just be careful charring diesel soaked posts(!!)...
@@Z.the.G I was thinking, theoretically, you could drip melted "recycled" plastic (HDPE maybe) on the post. You could also probably "paint it" in closed cell expanding foam (can of gap filler), or roofing tar, and or wood preserver. Just depends on what's available and how long the fence needs to last, but I would *char* the very bottom/underside of the post before I *painted* it or else it's a post in a cup made of latex or tape, etc...
That's a awesome job my friend,that should keep you out of the dog house for couple weeks. I would have wrap the bottom of the post with some protection for longevity purposes. Thanks for sharing
Yes sir. I used to pole building and fences and that is how we set pole fence posts. Run a string line from the last post to the first and then make sure all the posts are lined up to the string. Damn that was a long time ago....
It's not homemade. Our local Home Depot has them in stock: Kushlan 3.5 cu. ft. 1/2 HP 120-Volt Motor Direct Drive Cement Mixer. The top half swivels 360 degrees
Very professional job! I just pour the dry cement into the hole and add water. Yeah, it’s the lazy way but, I don’t claim to be a go gettin perfectionist and I still got post up for 25 years . Just my way. Again, sweet job, bubba!
Dont b so rude u idiot that wasn’t nice at all u kno karma gonna get u back for all the bad comments and words u feel u hav to say negative about people u kno one day ur gonna b old n then wat u gonna do prob all those youngsters will same the same rude stuff to u but u couldve saved this guy and his ego sum grief instead u try to rub it in like ur being funny unfortunately wat u said wasn’t funny and nor was it helpful or useful wat u said it was stupid asf
@@denisef1153 Omg I thought he said "fairy garden" too until I just read this thread lol! I was excited to see a fairy garden... now I'm kinda bummed haha :)
I've put up wood stockade fences for years and have never needed concrete, dirt is plenty enough and lasts longer and stays plum and level just as long Cement traps moisture and rots the pole 3-5x faster
As a lineman I can tell you the concrete holds moisture on your post so make sure they are treated well or use course sand an gravel so the moisture will leave.
You can also dry pour the concrete around the post in the hole , tamping in with a two-by-four, sett your plum on the pole and concrete will scavenge moisture from the ground and set, no need for supports unless it's really tall Post
I fix tons of posts that are under filled like this….. I mean tons…. Causes whole sections to fall because of base of post rotten away from water damage…. ALWAYS mound the concrete at base of post so you keep the water away😊
My experience is that dirt will build up on top of the concrete over time and when wet, will eventually rot the timber at the base even if it’s pressure treated. What we do here in the South East is put a concrete form around the top of the hole to raise the mixture above grade anywhere between 4-6 inches (or more, depending). Then before the mixture sets, we insert a raised metal mounting bracket in the center of the hole that goes down into the concrete and provides a raised cradle that the post is then set into and secured with bolts. Once the concrete is cured, we cut away & remove the heavy cardboard concrete form. This method is a bit more work and expense but the end result is a structure that will last much longer in wet or freezing weather conditions!
@@calebreasons that barely does anything at all 🤣 the rock didn’t even completely cover the bottom of the beam… which will accelerate the decomposition of said beams 🤣🤣🤡
1) dig the holes with the tractor 2) put the posts in the holes 3 load the bucket with as many bags of cement possible 4) drive to a hole, dump half a bag of cement in the hole, plumb post, add water, add other half of bag, replumb, add water. 5) drive to next hole, repeat step 4. * If it's a fence people will see and judge, insert step 1.5) pull a string line to line up posts. Nobody with a job to do has this retirement time.
I would also add a aluminum or plastic sleeve where the post meets the ground to prevent rot and I would also add a nail on each side of the post where it will be set in concrete which will make it impossible to ever be pulled out of the concrete.
Set up a string line, mark your holes with paint. Dig the hole. Clean it out. Mark grade on the bottom of the post with a sharpie. Make sure your holes are at least two inches deeper than the post grade. Mix concrete. Put one or two shovels of concrete in the hole. Set your post in the hole, level it off of the string line you don't have lol. Check grade line on the post with the grade of the ground. Finish filling with concrete. Either cap the footings with extra concrete or leave the concrete two inches low and fill with dirt your choice. After about three or four post are set, use your eye, tape measure and a torpedo lvl to flow the top of the post. You don't need extra framing lumber or anything bigger than a torpedo lvl. 😂. I've been setting fence post for over two decades. This is how most fence companies do it. How do you make any money at that rate?
I drop it in the hole. Add dry concrete. Tamp it down. Check level and adjust. Add dirt and rocks. Tamp. Check level. And move on. Never, Ever, have I had a problem with it😎
@@Akooks string line will give you the correct position however a tiny bit off on the post and your nailing the board on to a post that ain't gonna sit flush. So if you put one top line oñ boards in while setting posts you achieve 3 things at once. 1. You can set your length line precise 2. You ensure each post is sitting flat to the board. And 3 you can set your depth of post/height correct for each postv
Putting that rock under there allows the concrete to become packed around the bottom of the post encapsulating it so that any water that gets down around that. Post cannot get out this Causes the bottom of your post to rot out faster. Either set the post directly on the dirt or poor a little gravel around it before putting the concrete in will allow the post to drain.
Here's the secret recipe we follow on our dairy farm in upstate NY. We haven't had a post rot-out below grade in 40 years doing it this way. We dig a 4' deep hole to avoid frost heaving. We only use 6x6 PT wood for posts. Go large or go home. We place the rock in the bottom of the hole. We tamp the rock in by dropping the post into the hole ONCE. We mix up fast setting, CLOSED CELL foam into a 5 gallon bucket and pour it in before it starts foaming. The foam expands and sets the post HARD in about 30 minutes. Make sure that post is held level! Go back and trim the foam cap to grade with a hand saw. That post bottom will never touch any water or rot out below grade in your lifetime.
Use a split bucket with bottom off, take concrete above ground level. Once set, after 2-3 days get some resin and seal top of concrete brushing a cm up the post. Then stain the wood, once dry, restain, let it dry, then Johnson's water seal, that will give an extra ten years on the post.
What i did when i built a former neighbors fence in 2004...same thing BUT i bought for like $5, about 80 6" nails from the habitat store, which I nailed 4 on each post bottom at different levels to help "grab" the concrete like a root. That added even more strength. BUT my posts were 6x6 posts..not 4x4s. After a major hurricane went over her neighborhood in 2023...her fence being 19 years old had only 7 pickets failed, and every single yard in her neighborhood had ALL their fences failed. Six months later, almost all of her neighbors copied my design and built their fences like mine.
Cool guy. I just want to nit pick a great job. Its called plumb in the vertical, and level in the horizontal. The post was plumb. Also the post was a bit off center in the hole. Not a problem for this application. I'll see myself out.
And then the fence post is pushed up against the dirt so only half of the fence post is covering concrete. It's easier if you run 2 by 4 is parallel at the bottom and use the ground to brace it and put rock at the bottom but if. You'd run 2×4 You can actually keep it elevated off. The ground so the whole thing is incased in concrete And the fence post won't slide against the sidewall of the hole
I’ve been putting up fence post with just dirt. 8” round post 4ft in the ground and 4ft sticking out. Kick the fine dirt around the post until you can’t move it. Concrete will just rot the post out in a few years.
I poured quarter of a bag of cement in the hole , insert my post then pour the rest of the bag of cement ,set my post then slowly pour about a quart and a half of water let it sit for a hour or two works every time
Concrete for posts should be put in DRY, dry rammed hard, and then just a small amount of water added to prevent the top surface being wind blown. Rain and ground water will complete the process. Wet concrete shrinks as it cures, so you'll end up with loose posts. .
& in approx 14 yrs the fence post bottom is rotted away.? Perhaps,, Cover the bottom of any wood going under ground with Foundation black cement, then wrap a dark colored heavy duty trash bag around it, sink into hole, fill in concrete as shown, Done. We checked some 2 yrs ago that we set this way in 1996 in New Hampshire.. Still as strong as brand new wooden post. I was shocked , Building inspector in Plaistow New Hampshire A French Canadian Guy Sawyer, ( not only Best Inspector our Town has ever had even till this day, But Genuinely a Compassionate, Friendly, Professional Hard Working Man who was Friends w Everyone. Got to be Nicest Man I ever met. Had a ton of Great kids, good family man. Beautiful Daughters.. RIP My friend..
It’s easier to dump the cement into the hole around the post dry, add a little water, plumb the post, and go to the next one. After I learned this trick, I sold my mixer.
All of it looks great I know you don't expect those poles to last a lifetime but if you mailed the dirt that you dug out of the whole a little higher around the whole you can put a little more concrete and making sure the post isn't touching the dirt and it won't rot away
If you’re up north, and the ground is not sand.. you can use the back end of a shovel or 2 x 4 just pound the ground as hard as you can for about five minutes on each post and that sucker will be just like concrete. I’ve done it on every fence I’ve built
I use quarry process. It’s cheaper and does not need any framing or dry time. One person holds the post level and another pours in the quarry process a little at a time and tamps.
Those bags do not need to be pre mixed. Just dump the bag and add water if needed. Concrete will pull it from the ground. Also bell out the bottom of the hole. If the bottom is larger then the top it won't pop over time. If the walls are smooth and uniform or your hole looks like a carrot it's likely to pop. Run a string about 12-18 inches off the ground. Plumb your post up to that line. At end of day stand on latter at one end and make sure all the tops are in line. You have some wiggle room. So if the posts were a little off from eachother no one will ever know. Your working with materials that twist and warp, and will be outside. It doesnt have to be perfect. If it looks good it is good. A helper would save yourself a lot of trouble. You plumb the pole. Hold it in place and use yoir foot to help stablize the post. Helper pours in the dry bag. No need for 2x4s. The concrete will hold the post in place until it sets.
If you use fast setting post concrete you can quickly level it out after you pour your concrete in. Just give it a wiggle and tap on it with a hammer and stab the concrete a little to get the bubbles out and allow the concrete to settle it into the level position. With the right concrete mixed properly you don’t need 2x4 bracing
One it’s plumb not level. Two you don’t need to mix it just add water. Three you need the concrete domed above the dirt to prevent rot. Four you don’t need 2x4 to hold them unless it’s critical they stay where you need them. You can just adjust plumb when you add the concrete
Just remember everyone, no matter how hard you work. Your boss will always catch you sitting down.
Lolol
F**king facts
Just a friendly little tip my friend. Let your concrete come above the ground and taper it downward to the ground, this allows water to shed away from the post like it should. If your concrete is below ground water will sit on top of it and it will rot the post in time. Taper it and you will not have that problem. I enjoyed watching your video.
Could’ve said it better myself is exactly what I was going to say. I had a fencing company and if you get it above the hole like that waterproof shout out no matter how long it rains or if you’re in a snow zone.
@@phillipwhite3742 also good to stop grass and weeds from growing next to post. No more weed whacking the post base
Bla bla bla bla...
@@YAWN.... yo fuck off and be useful. The comments above are helpful.
Better yet, dry pack?
To everyone bashing this guy he is just showing some Slightly old school technique. It may not be perfect but at least He's still out there working and living his best life. This is still better than seventy five percent of the stuff on the internet right now.
Yes ,I gave him some grief but I can respect a hard working honey-do man
"Old school" knows the difference between "level" and PLUMB
@@reebquincom Everyone makes mistakes
What mistake(s) did he make? I mean personally I put gravel at the bottom, tar any wood below ground level, create a ramp of concrete at ground level to shed water away from post, char the above ground wood to protect from insects and then slather a diesel and oil mix on to preserve wood, and finally put a metal cap on top to keep the rain out of the end grain.
Maybe, but it's wrong
As a guy who had no parents to teach him the basics your videos are absolute gold for me. Thank you sir!
What happened to your parents ?
@@Renegade2023 My parents divorced when I was two years old. I grow up with my mum (never been in touch with my father) . My mum passed away when I was 17 and I just heard last year that my dad died as well.
i kinda relate, never knew my father, and my mother passed away, tbh it didnt hurt since she was a b*, now im learning all by myself, and at 28 with 2 sons im kinda of a perfectionist in everything i know@@ciprianion4142
😢Stay strong
Advise to make it the best it can be. If using wood posts. Never have base exposed. If you do use pea gravel. If you dont water will wick up the post and rot out. Second, concrete should finish above the dirt and form the concrete to a cone shape to weep water away from post. Lastly if you really want it to last. They make a wrap or paint that you paint the post with that goes into the concrete. Jist what ive learned over the years
You got it! Thick silicone where the wood and concrete meet. Then paint it.
I don't recommend putting posts in concrete tho.
If you are using regular wood, burn 8" down and 2" above the ground level. Soak the post in oil. In that same area, paint it with hot tar and wrap it in aluminum. Posts only rot near the ground level, not 3 feet deep. The aluminum protects the tar, and the burning keeps the bugs from wanting to eat the post. The oil does the same thing. Now, do 5 coats of thick oil based paint. Now do the rest of the 500 posts! Don't use concrete, use crushed limestone screenings. Instead of the rock of the bottom, you can pour a small concrete base. You are welcome
@@jakefriesenjake that the same oil they use on railroad ties?
@@yodaddy82daddy70 probably not. Used motor with diesel mixed would work good and cheap! Put the bottom of the post in a barrel of oil for a week or 3, to really soak it in. Also makes a great stain for a wooden fence. Cheap. Add some black wood stain into the oil if you want it even darker
@@jakefriesenjake hmm I never thought of using oil. Thanks for the tip. I hope I remember that on the next fence!
I always wrap the part in dirt with 3 or 3 wraps of roofing tar paper before concrete. It's really cheap, protects the wood, and it seems I always have some leftovers in the shed.
Great vid, setting posts in concrete is old school but also relatively cheap and easy. If you’re going to do this method and you plan on working with concrete again, I suggest investing in a vibratory rod. Vibrating the concrete before it sets helps remove any air voids that would otherwise reduce the overall strength of the finish concrete.
No need for that. The wood fails before the concrete does. Using a vibrator just makes it harder to chip out when it's time to replace the post.
I love how you do videos like this. So many of us were never taught by our own families to do these activities. Many do not have the family to show them either. Thank you for these videos. Your an amazing internet father
I dry set 200 posts. Had them all in perfect alignment using two strings. With the cc dry you can shiny and pack to perfection. Never even added water. Still sets up rock solid. Much easier
Watch out, professionals will criticize how you do it 😂😂😂. Look, if it works, it works! Keep doing you and keep up the great work! Stay safe and Happy Building 😁
This may be just me but I’ve set a lot of posts and I did it with dry right out of the bag into the hole. It will draw moisture from the soil and set up fine. Only things I didn’t do was put a rock or gravel in the bottom and didn’t get my concrete above the soil, those are good advice. I also have made a lot of my concrete from dense grade. If you have a rock quarry close they can help you. 6 shovels of dense grade to 1 shovel of cement makes a great concrete. I’ve done this 1980 and I loved it. Oh! One more little thing, I used a 1/4 inch rod, electric fence rod is perfect and when your post is plumb run the rod up and down around your post and this will get air pockets out and your post is solid. Poor man’s concrete or I liked lazy man’s concrete lol
I look forward to the day I can complete home projects without being rushed.
I look forward to owing a farm some day 🥲
@@user-vf6km4sf2r be ready to work harder than you ever have before. I'm 2 years into a farm from scratch.
@@fritzthecat9451 I don’t plan on working it 💀 I could own one now if I did, one day I’ll have enough to own a farm and have workers
Well said
@@user-vf6km4sf2r so you're after a business venture then?
Now, to make that post last a long time. Do this...
1. Over fill the hole and slope it away from the post to ensure good drainage.
2. When it is almost set take a large nail head and scratch a groove between the post and concrete
3. After it is set, use a good exterior caulk in the groove.
Wood & concrete expand at different rates. The caulked grove will flex and keep that joint tight and keep out the water.
Thank you
If you really want it to look nice, do the corner post first. Then run a string Line from them then when you plume the rest of them you will have a nice straight fence.😁
Correct. Or as I do run the top plank as that gets the posts on the right square. A string works also as you say but your plank before it sets gives some rigidity as well as square
Yup first day for me on a fence job is augering all the holes and then getting the corners set. String 2nd day and set rest of the posts to it. 3rd day fencing goes up.
Agreed 💯
And it’s plumb btw
Do you plum them with a plume
I learned years ago from a fence guy to pour the dry concrete in the hole and then add water on top. This way the concrete expands into the hole. If you put it in wet, it could shrink and leave wiggle room. Works great.
I’ve built miles of fence. Always used dry. Never put water on top of it. I’ve had to pull some post up a few years later, that concrete set hard.
@@redbovinethe purpose of adding water if you have quickset post concrete is it sets hard fast and you can go ahead and attach the fence right away with no worry about throwing it out of plumb.
@@redbovine Interesting
also 10x cheaper and easier for him to do... so did he tell you to pay him less too? has he ever been back? its buried, ypu have no idea man. gullible as day=long
@@summoner9924 Settle down, buddy. I did the work myself and he came and helped for free. He worked part time for me at UPS and managed a fence company during the day.
2 hours to get it up good'n'hard 😂, the wife is a v e r y patient woman👼👸
That's a damn good supervisor ❤
I was just about to say it!
Built fences for years. Stopped premixing the concrete and adding the supports once I learned both are unnecessary steps. Put the post in the ground holding roughly level. Pour in dry concrete while spraying water into hole. Smack post into level position when finished and walk away. Never had one post move out of level. Concrete will soak up any ground moisture it needs.
the supervisor deserves a treat Dad
Great ideas
Thankyou. I have a couple acres that I want to partially fence. The entire perimiter is already fenced, but inside near the house, I want a fence 25 ft out around my house for security and my guard dogs.
Crush gravel or road base work a lot better than a rock, or at least use a few handfuls of large rocks so you’re not setting the post directly on dirt/clay. Easier to pack down, level, helps hold the post in place and offers some drainage to prevent rotting from the bottom up.
4"s around each side post.
it always amazes me how much work people put into mixing ready mix concrete. try this take a 5-gallon pail put the recommended water in the pail pour the concrete in the pail et voila you have a pail of mixed concrete. it really can't get less complicated. if the soil is tight just put the water in the hole and skip the pail.
Beyond my abilities? Perhaps not, after all. Thanks honorary Dad! ❤
I've always poured dry mix around post then add water then poke around the post in mix with tomato stake then plumb the post. You can add to much water because any extra water the ground will absorb. Been doing it for 30 yrs on various projects. All the extra bracing is little out of hand.
Recommend extending the concrete and actually used a small form to make a square at the top so the top of the concrete is an inch or so above grade. That way, the posts are not in contact with soil ever.
I've done several posts that have lasted for 20 years, never use concrete (in Florida), it will cause premature rotting no matter how you do it (pressure treated, "mounding concrete" etc.) I use base gravel and sand, water it in and pack the crap out of it. It is as solid as concrete but allows drainage. My neighbor used concrete, and in five years or less, every post broke off at concrete/ground level.
As a former concrete guy... that's the proper way... but it ain't the easy way🤣
Do you have any suggestions please it would be greatly appreciated thanks
Looks good.
You won't believe me unless you read the package. I recently learned that you can pour some mix dry directly in the hole dry and then add the water on top.
You can look up numerous examples online
This absolutely works!
Been like that for years i was wondering why he had cement mixer out.
I believe you bro
Did that when I installed my parents new mailbox! Works like a charm
I do the same except I add +/-gallon water half a bag concrete stab at it with a 3/8 rebar to mix slightly and pack concrete add the other half ass more water poke few more times .. done .
That looks like good way to do that job, for those who don’t have the rock or the 2 by 4s or the mixer…pour it in dry half way, wet it and plumb it… fill the hole wet again and tamp it in
Sink a strong tie metal bracket into the wet concrete and when it dries nail the post to the strong tie. We do this in Chicago because with the totally frozen ground in winter, with the thawing and freezing cycle, expansion and contraction, the post can break off in the ground in some rare cases but it will certainly rot over time and fall apart that way.
Where does one purchase the metal bracket (or do I have to fabricate one?) That is the ideal foundation.
@@farkinarkin5099Lowes or Home Depot has them. They are around $25-$30. It’s expensive
I use to build fences here In Australia where we use metrics not imperials so excuse my measurements. And our regulations for fencing posts are 2.7 metres. We use to string Line along the fence line. And measure and mark each whole to be dug at 600millimetres deep with each post at 2.7metres apart from post to post. Place the 2.7metre post in the holes. Leaving 2.1metres of play on the posts for plinths and fence palings to nail to fence. We then use the string Line to sit each post in line with the string Line using the level to centre the post. We then would chuck a ROCK or 2 on the rear and side of post in the hole and smack it down with our long level to keep the post straight with the string Line and run a level above the string Line to keep it straight in the bubble, but also straight on the side of the post by placing the level in the side and centering the bubble until the post is straight. Then add one bag of quickset concrete per post depending on on the post hole being wide and dug more than 600mm deep. Once the concrete is in we then level the post a little more. Add some water and then let the post dry. Once dry, then starts the building process. Plinths on the bottom running it straight from post to post cutting in the centre and nailing it on to the post. Then repeat along with each plinth. Once all plinths are on and it's level and straight. We have our trick of measuring each cut out for channels and the excess post at the top once the fence palings are on place our measures paling and mark out our channels to be cut for railings to sit in the post. Cutting out channels with a saw and chisel out the channels. Once done. Place our rail on and cut to fit and sit half way inside of post. And repeat along until all channels are cut out and railings are in. Once done. Then nail the fence palings on. Start at one end with one paling and nail it on. Then leave a 20mm gap then nail the second fence paling. Then place a paling in between the 2 nailed palings and nail that 3rd paling covering the hole. Repeat along. Until fence is done. Then you will have about 100mm of post siting above the fence paling. You measure on the side of the post from the top of paling and mark a line on the post on a 45 degree angle from the top of the paling to the rear of the post. Cut off. And fence done. Like your work mate.
I know everyone wants to put in their 2 cents… but, here’s mine.
1. I cut some rough notches in the base of the wood so it’s not a slick surface and to better grip the concrete
2. I add a few nails or screws to the base of wood to also better grip the concrete.
Just pour it in dry and water it brother. Works just as good. I’ve done many tests with the method for fence posts. Sounds crazy, but it’s absolutely as strong as all that work you put in with a 1/4 of effort.
Wow how nice to see someone do something correctly. Instead of some new way that doesn’t work or isn’t right. All I’d say is that you plumb a post and level a fence.
You can skip the mixer action. Cement is hydroscopic, and will evenly absorb water, so you can simply pour dry cement around the pole and wet it down with a jug of water and let it set.
I noticed cement bags labeled as “fast drying” have directions to do as you say, but the others say to premix first. I’m genuinely curious why wouldn’t they all have directions to pour the cement in the hole then pour water over?
I found here in Michigan that P gravel works great it hydrolocks itself together. I had always used concrete, a city building inspector told me about it, and it works good.
Use 1/4 down crushed gravel. Not pea gravel.
This is what we use in Canada where our frost line is 6ft or more so the posts dont heave.
As long as the 2×4's are your fence rails. Otherwise that's a lot of extra lumber and extra work
You don't live on a farm
No, no I don't. But I did stay at a Holiday Inn Express last night
The supervisor was the best part ❤
Lol that’s what I said too
First install first and last posts, making sure they are plumb. When set, run a string on bottom between them. Run string between top of posts. Place other posts and align bottoms and tops to strings. Make sure the spacing between posts is what you want. Pour concrete on the remaining posts. Now you have a set perfect fence posts.
I just compact the dry Ready Mix around the 4 X4 fence post and as I continue working upwards I make sure the post is plumb and square.
The next morning the concrete will be set up hard.
to remove air bubbles I use a stick (just stab it all around the post, air bubble create a weal spot for the concrete to break) ALSO I always crown the top so water does NOT have a chance to set and pool thus rotting out the base. I always build my frame and then pour my concrete, this helps to keep it stable and I only need the front to back 2by4's plus it lessens the stress on the concrete when I'm adding my pickets OH and I screw EVERYTHING nail will work their way out but screws won't, and if you predrill a hole its less likely to split the ends
Good tips. I always add ~3" sand and compact, so the post doesn't sit in a "concrete cup" which would otherwise rot a post within 10 years.
in Texas we dip them in creosote or paint and tape the bottoms .. but this is a good method to
@@Z.the.G Yes creosote works great. Soaking the post in diesel a few times works well too, adding a couple shovels of gravel to the bottom of the hole helps (or a rock), and or charring the portion that comes in contact with the ground (and 8" above) are options that can make a very big difference in longevity (up to 100 years), but just be careful charring diesel soaked posts(!!)...
@@Z.the.G I was thinking, theoretically, you could drip melted "recycled" plastic (HDPE maybe) on the post. You could also probably "paint it" in closed cell expanding foam (can of gap filler), or roofing tar, and or wood preserver. Just depends on what's available and how long the fence needs to last, but I would *char* the very bottom/underside of the post before I *painted* it or else it's a post in a cup made of latex or tape, etc...
I seen guys use mastic before
@@matthewtheking chemicals would leache into soil and crops
That's a awesome job my friend,that should keep you out of the dog house for couple weeks.
I would have wrap the bottom of the post with some protection for longevity purposes. Thanks for sharing
Concrete to the top of the dirt line to keep termites out.
If the termites want in that post they’ll get it In regardless of where the concrete is.
Above the grade about 2-3 inches with a cone shaped mold so water runs away from post.
Also been helpful for my fence.
Take care!
Yes sir. I used to pole building and fences and that is how we set pole fence posts. Run a string line from the last post to the first and then make sure all the posts are lined up to the string. Damn that was a long time ago....
Love the homemade concrete mixer you should put a video up or how you build that
It's not homemade. Our local Home Depot has them in stock: Kushlan
3.5 cu. ft. 1/2 HP 120-Volt Motor Direct Drive Cement Mixer. The top half swivels 360 degrees
😂 a shovel and wheelbarrow is all you need
Very professional job! I just pour the dry cement into the hole and add water. Yeah, it’s the lazy way but, I don’t claim to be a go gettin perfectionist and I still got post up for 25 years . Just my way. Again, sweet job, bubba!
MUCH RESPECT!!!!!!!
You literally take pride in your work by doing it RIGHT!!!!!!!
what’s important is the WIFE WANTED IT DONE, and he GOT IT DONE FOR HER.
Dude i thought you were gonna say "for my wifes burial" but you said "for my wifes berry garden" oh lord😂😂😂
Dont b so rude u idiot that wasn’t nice at all u kno karma gonna get u back for all the bad comments and words u feel u hav to say negative about people u kno one day ur gonna b old n then wat u gonna do prob all those youngsters will same the same rude stuff to u but u couldve saved this guy and his ego sum grief instead u try to rub it in like ur being funny unfortunately wat u said wasn’t funny and nor was it helpful or useful wat u said it was stupid asf
I thought he said fairy garden so I came to the comments to find out. And I learned you don’t need to mix cement anymore. Beautiful
@@denisef1153 Omg I thought he said "fairy garden" too until I just read this thread lol! I was excited to see a fairy garden... now I'm kinda bummed haha :)
@@republican4u2nv78 😂
I've put up wood stockade fences for years and have never needed concrete, dirt is plenty enough and lasts longer and stays plum and level just as long
Cement traps moisture and rots the pole 3-5x faster
You aren't making it level, you're making it plumb.
He's a plumber?
As a lineman I can tell you the concrete holds moisture on your post so make sure they are treated well or use course sand an gravel so the moisture will leave.
Use gravel is cheeper and just as good if not better!
Yep. Better. Lets water drain away. 🙂👍
You can also dry pour the concrete around the post in the hole , tamping in with a two-by-four, sett your plum on the pole and concrete will scavenge moisture from the ground and set, no need for supports unless it's really tall Post
I fix tons of posts that are under filled like this….. I mean tons…. Causes whole sections to fall because of base of post rotten away from water damage…. ALWAYS mound the concrete at base of post so you keep the water away😊
My experience is that dirt will build up on top of the concrete over time and when wet, will eventually rot the timber at the base even if it’s pressure treated.
What we do here in the South East is put a concrete form around the top of the hole to raise the mixture above grade anywhere between 4-6 inches (or more, depending). Then before the mixture sets, we insert a raised metal mounting bracket in the center of the hole that goes down into the concrete and provides a raised cradle that the post is then set into and secured with bolts. Once the concrete is cured, we cut away & remove the heavy cardboard concrete form.
This method is a bit more work and expense but the end result is a structure that will last much longer in wet or freezing weather conditions!
That post was no where near level. Plumb maybe but truly 90 degrees off level. 😂
Pretty good Ole right. Every job runs better w/supervisor. 😃 👍🏽 💯
I'd be nailing boards by the time this guy gets his posts set
@carpe diem lol, you make a berry good point
Your wife is a lucky woman!👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
🙏❤💕⚘🌟🌟⚘💕❤🙏
$2 compacting gravel: am I a joke to you?? 😂
Or a free rock
@@calebreasons that barely does anything at all 🤣 the rock didn’t even completely cover the bottom of the beam… which will accelerate the decomposition of said beams 🤣🤣🤡
1) dig the holes with the tractor
2) put the posts in the holes
3 load the bucket with as many bags of cement possible
4) drive to a hole, dump half a bag of cement in the hole, plumb post, add water, add other half of bag, replumb, add water.
5) drive to next hole, repeat step 4.
* If it's a fence people will see and judge, insert step 1.5) pull a string line to line up posts.
Nobody with a job to do has this retirement time.
You forgot 3 inches of gravel below the post.
This is what i was going to say
@@Cenlalowell he said thats why he put ah rock instead and pound it down for base
That's why I used the rock
I would also add a aluminum or plastic sleeve where the post meets the ground to prevent rot and I would also add a nail on each side of the post where it will be set in concrete which will make it impossible to ever be pulled out of the concrete.
Set up a string line, mark your holes with paint. Dig the hole. Clean it out. Mark grade on the bottom of the post with a sharpie. Make sure your holes are at least two inches deeper than the post grade. Mix concrete. Put one or two shovels of concrete in the hole. Set your post in the hole, level it off of the string line you don't have lol. Check grade line on the post with the grade of the ground. Finish filling with concrete. Either cap the footings with extra concrete or leave the concrete two inches low and fill with dirt your choice. After about three or four post are set, use your eye, tape measure and a torpedo lvl to flow the top of the post. You don't need extra framing lumber or anything bigger than a torpedo lvl. 😂. I've been setting fence post for over two decades. This is how most fence companies do it. How do you make any money at that rate?
I like to spray posts 2' in pruning seal tar before sticking them in too. Then bring concrete to grade level and mound it so so water sheds away.
I have never worked that hard for a post. 😂
Imagine if a guy was poor, how would he plum?
Gfy
I drop it in the hole. Add dry concrete. Tamp it down. Check level and adjust. Add dirt and rocks. Tamp. Check level. And move on. Never, Ever, have I had a problem with it😎
Ur wasting ur time putting 2x4 up I do fence every day people that don’t know how to do fence do it that way
Correct. Run the top plank before it sets or they all gonna be off square when you board
@@kevinmulligan9055
Not unless you use a string line
@@Akooks string line will give you the correct position however a tiny bit off on the post and your nailing the board on to a post that ain't gonna sit flush. So if you put one top line oñ boards in while setting posts you achieve 3 things at once. 1. You can set your length line precise 2. You ensure each post is sitting flat to the board. And 3 you can set your depth of post/height correct for each postv
We LOVE the SUPERVISOR t,quietly observing.daniel &cirila .CANADA.
this man literally turned a 5 min job into all day
Putting that rock under there allows the concrete to become packed around the bottom of the post encapsulating it so that any water that gets down around that. Post cannot get out this Causes the bottom of your post to rot out faster.
Either set the post directly on the dirt or poor a little gravel around it before putting the concrete in will allow the post to drain.
Here's the secret recipe we follow on our dairy farm in upstate NY. We haven't had a post rot-out below grade in 40 years doing it this way. We dig a 4' deep hole to avoid frost heaving. We only use 6x6 PT wood for posts. Go large or go home. We place the rock in the bottom of the hole. We tamp the rock in by dropping the post into the hole ONCE. We mix up fast setting, CLOSED CELL foam into a 5 gallon bucket and pour it in before it starts foaming. The foam expands and sets the post HARD in about 30 minutes. Make sure that post is held level! Go back and trim the foam cap to grade with a hand saw. That post bottom will never touch any water or rot out below grade in your lifetime.
Use a split bucket with bottom off, take concrete above ground level.
Once set, after 2-3 days get some resin and seal top of concrete brushing a cm up the post.
Then stain the wood, once dry, restain, let it dry, then Johnson's water seal, that will give an extra ten years on the post.
What i did when i built a former neighbors fence in 2004...same thing BUT i bought for like $5, about 80 6" nails from the habitat store, which I nailed 4 on each post bottom at different levels to help "grab" the concrete like a root. That added even more strength. BUT my posts were 6x6 posts..not 4x4s. After a major hurricane went over her neighborhood in 2023...her fence being 19 years old had only 7 pickets failed, and every single yard in her neighborhood had ALL their fences failed. Six months later, almost all of her neighbors copied my design and built their fences like mine.
Yes I put screws or lags on it
I just removed 4 4x4 cedar posts I set in pea gravel 20 years ago. Posts are in great shape and can be used elsewhere.
This man is a beautiful resourceful man.... A can do guy and a dying breed.
Cool guy. I just want to nit pick a great job. Its called plumb in the vertical, and level in the horizontal. The post was plumb. Also the post was a bit off center in the hole. Not a problem for this application. I'll see myself out.
And then the fence post is pushed up against the dirt so only half of the fence post is covering concrete. It's easier if you run 2 by 4 is parallel at the bottom and use the ground to brace it and put rock at the bottom but if. You'd run 2×4 You can actually keep it elevated off. The ground so the whole thing is incased in concrete And the fence post won't slide against the sidewall of the hole
I’ve been putting up fence post with just dirt. 8” round post 4ft in the ground and 4ft sticking out. Kick the fine dirt around the post until you can’t move it. Concrete will just rot the post out in a few years.
I poured quarter of a bag of cement in the hole , insert my post then pour the rest of the bag of cement ,set my post then slowly pour about a quart and a half of water let it sit for a hour or two works every time
Concrete for posts should be put in DRY, dry rammed hard, and then just a small amount of water added to prevent the top surface being wind blown.
Rain and ground water will complete the process.
Wet concrete shrinks as it cures, so you'll end up with loose posts.
.
& in approx 14 yrs the fence post bottom is rotted away.? Perhaps,, Cover the bottom of any wood going under ground with Foundation black cement, then wrap a dark colored heavy duty trash bag around it, sink into hole, fill in concrete as shown, Done. We checked some 2 yrs ago that we set this way in 1996 in New Hampshire.. Still as strong as brand new wooden post. I was shocked , Building inspector in Plaistow New Hampshire A French Canadian Guy Sawyer, ( not only Best Inspector our Town has ever had even till this day, But Genuinely a Compassionate, Friendly, Professional Hard Working Man who was Friends w Everyone. Got to be Nicest Man I ever met. Had a ton of Great kids, good family man. Beautiful Daughters.. RIP My friend..
It’s easier to dump the cement into the hole around the post dry, add a little water, plumb the post, and go to the next one. After I learned this trick, I sold my mixer.
He definitely kills wittle wabbits on his spare time
All of it looks great I know you don't expect those poles to last a lifetime but if you mailed the dirt that you dug out of the whole a little higher around the whole you can put a little more concrete and making sure the post isn't touching the dirt and it won't rot away
I always "peak" the concrete above the ground a couple inches to keep water from pooling and rotting the post at ground level.
If you’re up north, and the ground is not sand.. you can use the back end of a shovel or 2 x 4 just pound the ground as hard as you can for about five minutes on each post and that sucker will be just like concrete. I’ve done it on every fence I’ve built
Thank you for actually mixing, my forehead hurts from the amount of times I've palmed it recently. The utter crap work I've seen is bewildering.
You’re a good man! Your wife should be proud of her new garden. Well done…
The supervisor is the best part of the video 😊
A man with good common sense and thinks smarter not harder.....👍
What a good supervisor
I use quarry process. It’s cheaper and does not need any framing or dry time. One person holds the post level and another pours in the quarry process a little at a time and tamps.
That's the cutest supervisor I've ever seen.
Great work but such good rocks.
Those bags do not need to be pre mixed. Just dump the bag and add water if needed. Concrete will pull it from the ground.
Also bell out the bottom of the hole. If the bottom is larger then the top it won't pop over time. If the walls are smooth and uniform or your hole looks like a carrot it's likely to pop.
Run a string about 12-18 inches off the ground. Plumb your post up to that line. At end of day stand on latter at one end and make sure all the tops are in line. You have some wiggle room. So if the posts were a little off from eachother no one will ever know. Your working with materials that twist and warp, and will be outside. It doesnt have to be perfect. If it looks good it is good.
A helper would save yourself a lot of trouble. You plumb the pole. Hold it in place and use yoir foot to help stablize the post. Helper pours in the dry bag. No need for 2x4s. The concrete will hold the post in place until it sets.
If you use fast setting post concrete you can quickly level it out after you pour your concrete in. Just give it a wiggle and tap on it with a hammer and stab the concrete a little to get the bubbles out and allow the concrete to settle it into the level position. With the right concrete mixed properly you don’t need 2x4 bracing
One it’s plumb not level. Two you don’t need to mix it just add water. Three you need the concrete domed above the dirt to prevent rot. Four you don’t need 2x4 to hold them unless it’s critical they stay where you need them. You can just adjust plumb when you add the concrete
Lots of great tips from this older but younger good man !!!🎉🎉🎉