Thank you for the share, as some one building both N/A headers and turbo headers for a odd ball mitsubishi V6, I really appreciate the time you took to show how to build these 3 into 1 headers from start to finish. I also love the sketchy jig on your band saw, I just finished building something similar but smaller for my chop saw lol.
My pleasure, I hope the video helped make sense of how to build them. My collector cutting fixture actually started life as a temporary solution for my old chop saw. Over a decade later and countless collector cuts later, it's safe to say it's a permanent fixture of all of my header building efforts.
Thank you, I'm ecstatic to see it begin to look like a car again. Silicon bronze is a brazing rod. It's a more ductile/flexible material than stainless filler and helps prevent tubing rupture from thermal expansion/contraction. I like to use it on tube-to-flange welds for stainless steel and inconel for this reason. It probably isn't 100% necessary, but it's an old school header builder's trick that I like to employ when I can.
Love your videos. The time you spent explaining the burrs you could have removed them 😂 But I have a question. Recently I finished making my first downpipe, I have not installed it yet, but youbsaid you like to make a second pass on tube to flange with SiliconBronze filler. Is it only good for 321 ss or 304 ss aswell? Thank you and waiting for the next episode.
That's probably true, although I'd rather share the knowledge. I like to apply a silicon bronze cap to my tubing-to-flange welds. It helps keep the joint flexible for thermal expansion and contraction. As far as I know, this technique can be applied to any stainless-stainless or stainless-mild steel weld. I recently did the same thing on the inconel-stainless welds on my MKIV Supra's turbo header as well. It isn't 100% necessary, but it's a little trick I like to do on my parts.
I weld externally first and then weld the inside wherever full penetration was not achieved to tie the remainders of the seams together. I'll make note to show the inside in the future, I didn't think of it in this episode for whatever reason.
![055: Sorting Turbo Manifold Fact From Fiction. [#PODCAST]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/zK0Mke-vyG8/mqdefault.jpg)
Thank you for the share, as some one building both N/A headers and turbo headers for a odd ball mitsubishi V6, I really appreciate the time you took to show how to build these 3 into 1 headers from start to finish. I also love the sketchy jig on your band saw, I just finished building something similar but smaller for my chop saw lol.
My pleasure, I hope the video helped make sense of how to build them. My collector cutting fixture actually started life as a temporary solution for my old chop saw. Over a decade later and countless collector cuts later, it's safe to say it's a permanent fixture of all of my header building efforts.
Absolutely gorgeous as normal Alex!!!
Thank you for your kind words and continued support, Jordan.
Thank you for sharing your knowledge ✌🏽
My pleasure, thank you for your continued support.
Awesome work again brother. Car is looking perfect. What is that silicon bronze you are talking about?
Thank you, I'm ecstatic to see it begin to look like a car again. Silicon bronze is a brazing rod. It's a more ductile/flexible material than stainless filler and helps prevent tubing rupture from thermal expansion/contraction. I like to use it on tube-to-flange welds for stainless steel and inconel for this reason. It probably isn't 100% necessary, but it's an old school header builder's trick that I like to employ when I can.
Love your videos. The time you spent explaining the burrs you could have removed them 😂
But I have a question. Recently I finished making my first downpipe, I have not installed it yet, but youbsaid you like to make a second pass on tube to flange with SiliconBronze filler. Is it only good for 321 ss or 304 ss aswell? Thank you and waiting for the next episode.
That's probably true, although I'd rather share the knowledge. I like to apply a silicon bronze cap to my tubing-to-flange welds. It helps keep the joint flexible for thermal expansion and contraction. As far as I know, this technique can be applied to any stainless-stainless or stainless-mild steel weld. I recently did the same thing on the inconel-stainless welds on my MKIV Supra's turbo header as well.
It isn't 100% necessary, but it's a little trick I like to do on my parts.
Wish you showed the internal welding, or was it welded externally with full penetration?
I weld externally first and then weld the inside wherever full penetration was not achieved to tie the remainders of the seams together. I'll make note to show the inside in the future, I didn't think of it in this episode for whatever reason.
I was interested in how you got the torch inside and still be able to move and see
1st here👌🏻
You won the grand prize.