You're a good man! I do not have enough vocabulary to describe how far and beyon this effort is compared to other typical explanations out there. Biggest component being the real world example on your own vehicle and not just making engine noises with your mouth. Thank you very much and please continue on the same path. It does not go unnoticed!
Thank you so much for this video. I have watched so many carb tuning vids, hours worth. Many are so long winded, yet I learn barely anything really useful. Most of them talk to you like you're new to tuning carbs which is good, BUT they also leave out critical information that someone new to carbs wouldn't know, such as how to hear rich VS lean. Many will say "if youre running rich here's what you do" without giving any info on what to listen and watch for. You covered a lot of info I've never heard before that is great for beginners. Some people think they're good teachers but they're not quite suited for it. You sir are a decent teacher.
@@NightWrencher you most definitely are! I say this to all my favorite youtubers: I love watching you do what you love, and I love learning as a byproduct of that! Keep doing you my dude, that's what's drawing the crowd in. You rock
Hmmm!!! Exactly what information I’ve been searching for!! Great explanation!! Been trying to tune my carb and it’s been popping in the exhaust and stuttering when trying to give it gas….. I’m gonna try this tomorrow mahalo nui!
Dropping that knowledge. Thank you man. Best explanation ive seen yet. Been tuning my 1850 on a 350. And everything lines up with need more fuel. So stoked on the carbed LS. boss has one lying around. Maybe its time.
That'll be sweet man. It'll throw your tune out the window though. Keep everything else as it is and just swap the main body and see how it responds. Figure out if you gotta go rich or lean and then go circuit by circuit.
Ok then, I'm going to reset tomorrow, back to stock. Even tho engine was dynoed to find jet combo. Everything, iab, ifr, jets. Only thing I won't mess w is PV. 4.5 in now. Makes like 9 to 10". Great vid man.
Great Video. I will have to watch again. I am completely lost at this point tuning a 1974 Honda XL250. Going to check timing and dwell. Haven't done that yet. Played around with jetting and needle so much that I am getting closer. Taking a break and making sure timing and points are set correct.
I'm not too familiar with that engine but the stock settings for that carb wont work? Also, with any engine with adjustible timing, ignition should always be set first.
I wish you could tune mine. I have a Holley 80457-2 4 barrel. Mine starts fine, revs fine without a load. When I drive the hills of San Francisco, she is struggling to even getting up the hill. Even if I put the engine into a lower gear, it’s not getting better. 350 Chevy. The car has electronic ignition and new plugs and wires. Feels like I can’t get more power from it. No backfiring either. Thoughts.
I have that same carburetor. Its a 600 single feed VS. First of all, you need to make sure you have enough timing in it to it runs right. You want at least 13 degrees of timing at idle and 32-36 max at WOT so you can get the best road maners. Aside from that, I'm willing to bet your carb is running too rich. Usually if you go into a lower gear, the AFR will go richer with less load and if you go up a gear and lug the engine, it would go lean. Second, since youre not getting a back fire, that would also indicate that its not running lean. If you can, drive with a vacuum gauge, see if youre getting below 7" of vacuum going up a hill since that would open the power valve and pull more fuel. Pull a plug, and if its jet black, youll be able to pin point it.
At 11:23 you talk about putting a hand over the choke primary. I have a Holley 750 (Barry Grant variant) on my 383 stroker. 10.7:1, pretty rowdy cam. No choke plate but when I block off the primary the motor dies. Showing symptoms of a rich condition but afr is close to perfect. 13.5 ish at idle and high 12s across the board all the way up. I'm already jetted down lower than I think I should for this motor, I was even lower with similar results but currently at 72 primaries, 77 secondaries. Acc pumps are 15 thousandths off at idle, 5.5 PV, needle and seats good, float adjusted at bottom of sight hole, 31 squirters front and back. Valves checked and lash set. It's not like it's running horribly, afr is good but getting some exhaust pop in the higher range and a little smokey (fuel smoke). Any ideas?
So heres a tip. If you have a cam with a decent amount of overlap, your AFR gauge will read false lean at idle and low RPM. The only way to tune that would be with a tach or with a vacuum gauge. First make sure you have enough timing at idle for the cam(tune it the same way, with RPM or Vacuum). Second, set the preliminary idle speed and tune the idle mixture. As you dial it in, the RPM will climb, and once you go too far, itll dip back down. I like the idle a hair rich to compensate for different weather conditions. As for the popping, if it pops on high RPM decel, you probably have the idle speed set too high, you might have an exhaust leak or you're running too rich. If the exhaust pops on consistant acceleration into the upper RPM and you feel the car hesitate, its lean or the plug gap is too wide. If the exhaust pops while you're accelerating in the upper RPM, you're too rich or have an exhaust leak. Hope this helps.
@@NightWrencher timing has been dialed, lightest springs with 38 total and it's very happy there. I did end up finding my popping culprit, #8 plug was closed up and sending unburnt fuel through to be ignited in the collector, must have happened during my last plug read. Don't remember hitting it on anything going in but alas, that issue is fixed. Still pig fat, blowing puffs of black smoke on throttle cracks and raw fuel smell at idle. I'm gonna look at my transition slot and adjust my secondary blades tomorrow. Plus mess around more with acc pump cams again. I'm thinking my transition slot might be too uncovered with my 1000 rpm idle, cause my idle circuits don't have as much adjustment in them as I think they should.
If your carb is a 2 corner idle carb, do not try to open the secondaries at idle. You're just going to wreck distribution and lower your idle vacuum. 1000rpm at idle is way too high. Even my 73 charger with a 294/294 advertised on a 108 LSA cam shaft, idles smooth at 750 rpm hot. Reset your idle screws and start over from scratch. You want that front throttle plate as closed as possible. Its doesnt "need" to be square but it definately cant be taller than a square.
@@NightWrencher FYI this car is a bracket car, will spend most of its life doing the 1/4 mile. So I don't care about driveability, just peak power without putting holes in pistons lol
Very interesting although mines not as simple as that my Toyota will only run at 28 turns on my mixture screw but if I try to turn the screw in the engine just starts to die so I seem to be stuck at twenty eight turns
If its a holley, I have a video on how to set the idle. If its not a holley, I wouldnt be able to tell you where to look. Just make sure you dont have any vacuum leaks
Hello, my setup is a Ford straight six, turbo, intercooler, Quick fuel blow through carb and MSD. Also installed A/F gauge. It reads around 14 and change at idle. Running out of adjustment on mixture screws and it’s still running way too fat. Do I need to look elsewhere?? Thank you
Hey man, I would definately make sure your initial and total timing is set before you start playing with the AFR because the timing will change the idle vacuum, idle RPM and Idle mixture. Your issue might lie in a few things, 1) possible vacuum leak 2) fuel float level set too low 3) IFR too small 4) low speed air bleeds too big. If your car is an automatic, you can try putting the car in Drive, hold the brake, and start leaning into the throttle and listen for hesitation or popping. That can be an indication of too small of an IFR
If you mean left and right, there could be an issue in the carb where you might have some junk blocking the fuel on the lean side. On a single plane you could get left side lean/right side rich or viseversa but in a dual plane, if you have an issue with left and right, something else is going on
Hi great video(s). Much appreciated the efford in making those. Wondering if you kindly make a comment on the situation I have with my motorbike/carburator. 250cc. Mikuni-34. The carb is super clean, jets and all. No air leak. However, it stalls after about 30 seconds on idle either on cold start, or, at traffic stops. When driving non-stop/high-rev it is perfectly fine. Perhaps, it is the float level? I played with it but did not help. Should I change pilot jet to something else even though Yamaha indicates 47.5 on manual? Any comment? Thanks a bunch.
I dont have too much experience with motorcycle carbs but you can try covering the air inlet to block most of the air from going in. If the condition gets worse, youre running rich, if it gets better, youre running lean. I'm willing to bet your idle circuit is running lean.
I thought I had already answered this comment but I guess not. I don't think you have the same carb as me because my carb is not a 4 corner idle carb so it does not have rear idle screws. I have an idle adjustment video on a 4 corner idle and I do go through and adjust all 4.
How much engine vacuum should a solid engine show (351 w/ 4bbl Holley carb) I was tunning it for a friend but could only get 16.5 vacuum...86 ford f150 351 crate engine. It is running smooth though.
Just found your video, i have a 350 with flat top pistons. A holley 600 carb, it sounds like a cam in it when idleing but its not that much of a cam. I tryed leaning it 1/8 turn balanced and it wanted to die at lights and was stumbling. I put it back richer and it was ok, but my plugs are dark? I just got a vacuum gauge, what should it read when correct tuned?
Great vid as usual! Im having a problem where Ive dialed it in as far as smooth running and 800 rpm but am still running rich (smoke in the exhaust, stinging eyes, carbon on the plugs). Ive got a demon 850 on a 454 with a mild cam. I also did the air restriction test covering the air flow and the rpm drops off and stalls. Each corner idle mix is 1/2 turn out.
Thats not quite true. All the circuits stack on top of each other the idle circuit makes less of an impact with more throttle but it still makes a difference in the tune.
@@NightWrencher but yet if your idle is to high and the the thortles blades are past the circuit slots you'll never get your air fuel set right and also your jetting will also play part with your power valve as for tuning also for lean or rich vacuum also has a play there also
Biggest impact the idle feed will have on the tune is in the transition circuit. Once you go into the main circuit, so much air is flowing through the engine that the small amount of fuel from both idle and transition wont make too much of an difference. The point of the video was not to show you how to fix a lean or rich condition on your carb, it was so you can identify a lean or rich condition based on sound reguardless of what circuit you're in. If you want to tune individual circuits, I have seperate videos on each of them in my holley carb secrets playlist
Not trying to down any thing you say I'm still learning also my self ... Keep up the research as I am also it all a bit tricky to rap my head around specially with a modified engines I have a lowered 89 Silverado with 383ci 750 double pumper and a 60 olds with a 454 bored 100ths 477ci with a 850 double pumper fun fun fun .. head ache head ache head ache ... Lol got to love em though...
Wrong. Running lean is more dangerous than running rich. Engine runs hotter if its too Lean. Running slightly rich is actually preferable especially in winter time
@@Kabeeb You would have to identify exactly whats happening and then adjust that in your carburetor. So for example, if you car is running rich/lean at idle, you would have to reset your idle speed and idle mixture screws and tune them to accordingly. If your carburetor is non tunable, and your timing can't be adjusted then there might be something wrong inside your carburetor or you have and outside force like fuel pressure, regulator problems, internal leaking, things like that.
Well a wideband is only half the story. On rowdy cams with a lot of duration, a wideband is pretty much useless at low load/ low rpms because of the amount of air passing to the exhaust during overlap. Also, if your o2 sensor is going out, itll tend to read rich so if you know what to look for, you can verify if the wide band is reading right or not. My favorite tuning device is a wideband but theres a time and place for everything.
There's no "secrets" here. Just the basics I already know. I can't get my Holley 750 to idle clean. It's running rich like a pig at idle and I can't clean it up.
@@NightWrencher I had it at 6 but I bumped it up to 10 and it seems way better. I got the carb tuned so it's not running rich. My idle between park and drive are VERY drastic though so now I'm trying to figure that out.
@@NightWrencher vac advance is already at manifold. The problem with advancing, seems to make it much harder to turn over and the starter, battery and wires are all new.
Usually you can get away with 13-15 at idle before the start starts to struggle. Low RPM in drive can be too tight of converter for the cam, idle too lean or not enough base timing
You're a good man! I do not have enough vocabulary to describe how far and beyon this effort is compared to other typical explanations out there. Biggest component being the real world example on your own vehicle and not just making engine noises with your mouth. Thank you very much and please continue on the same path. It does not go unnoticed!
Thank you sir! I really appreciate it! I hope it helped!
The MOST comprehensive teaching of this that i have seen.Excellent
I appreciate it sir 👍
Boom! My 454 is running rich. Smoking and sounds like it’s got a cam in it. Great video!!!
Hope it helps!
Thank you so much for this video. I have watched so many carb tuning vids, hours worth. Many are so long winded, yet I learn barely anything really useful. Most of them talk to you like you're new to tuning carbs which is good, BUT they also leave out critical information that someone new to carbs wouldn't know, such as how to hear rich VS lean. Many will say "if youre running rich here's what you do" without giving any info on what to listen and watch for. You covered a lot of info I've never heard before that is great for beginners. Some people think they're good teachers but they're not quite suited for it. You sir are a decent teacher.
I really appreciate it man. Makes me feel like I'm actually helping someone with my videos!
@@NightWrencher you most definitely are! I say this to all my favorite youtubers: I love watching you do what you love, and I love learning as a byproduct of that! Keep doing you my dude, that's what's drawing the crowd in. You rock
Thank man, that means a lot 👍
You explained rich and lean perfectly
Thank you sir! Hope it helps!
I run a Holley 650 double pumper on a '64 Merc 352CID and have gone with about 3/4 turn on mixture screws
3/4 fronts and 1/2 rear has always been the magic numbers for me.
Bad ass truck! When I was 16 I got a 73 4wd power wagon. Wish I still had it.
Thanks man, this truck will be a beast after its done 👊
Hmmm!!! Exactly what information I’ve been searching for!! Great explanation!! Been trying to tune my carb and it’s been popping in the exhaust and stuttering when trying to give it gas….. I’m gonna try this tomorrow mahalo nui!
Thank you! I hope it worked out!
Truck is gonna be cool, headed there for sure!
Exactly the info i was searching for. A lot of related details with it for context. Well done.
Thank you! I really appreciate it!
Dropping that knowledge. Thank you man. Best explanation ive seen yet. Been tuning my 1850 on a 350. And everything lines up with need more fuel. So stoked on the carbed LS. boss has one lying around. Maybe its time.
You can get that 350 to spin like a top. The older SBC were still pretty good motors. Update the ignition, tune the carb and she'll be perfect
Forgot the glow plugs bud. Hahaha. Dude sick truck.
When accelerating and getting hesitation it can also be a rich condition
Great explanation!
Thanks.
Thank you!
Nice. Still trying to get my turd to run better.
Just got a new hp body. May try it tomorrow.
That'll be sweet man. It'll throw your tune out the window though. Keep everything else as it is and just swap the main body and see how it responds. Figure out if you gotta go rich or lean and then go circuit by circuit.
Ok then, I'm going to reset tomorrow, back to stock. Even tho engine was dynoed to find jet combo. Everything, iab, ifr, jets. Only thing I won't mess w is PV. 4.5 in now. Makes like 9 to 10".
Great vid man.
If it was dyno tuned put it back in that configuration
Engine dyno, not wheel.
Still back to that?
Also, are IAB supposed to be the same size prim and sec?
Engine dyno and wheel dyno will have a different tune so your best bet is to go circuit by circuit. The iabs are usually square front to back
Great Video. I will have to watch again. I am completely lost at this point tuning a 1974 Honda XL250. Going to check timing and dwell. Haven't done that yet. Played around with jetting and needle so much that I am getting closer. Taking a break and making sure timing and points are set correct.
I'm not too familiar with that engine but the stock settings for that carb wont work? Also, with any engine with adjustible timing, ignition should always be set first.
@@NightWrencher Thank You. It's been years since I worked on my old Volkswagens. This bike is taking me back there. Enjoy your day.
I put a wide band 02 on mine said screw it really helps on tuning it in great videos
Thanks, your advices are very useful
I appreciate it! 👍
Very informative, thanks a lot.
Nice explanations. Thanks
Great vid man
Good stuff, thank you.
I hope it helps you out!
very helpful
Thank you sir!
Awesome video...
My idle air fuel ratio is perfect it leans out whenever I get on the gas
I wish you could tune mine. I have a Holley 80457-2 4 barrel. Mine starts fine, revs fine without a load. When I drive the hills of San Francisco, she is struggling to even getting up the hill. Even if I put the engine into a lower gear, it’s not getting better. 350 Chevy. The car has electronic ignition and new plugs and wires. Feels like I can’t get more power from it. No backfiring either. Thoughts.
I have that same carburetor. Its a 600 single feed VS. First of all, you need to make sure you have enough timing in it to it runs right. You want at least 13 degrees of timing at idle and 32-36 max at WOT so you can get the best road maners. Aside from that, I'm willing to bet your carb is running too rich. Usually if you go into a lower gear, the AFR will go richer with less load and if you go up a gear and lug the engine, it would go lean. Second, since youre not getting a back fire, that would also indicate that its not running lean. If you can, drive with a vacuum gauge, see if youre getting below 7" of vacuum going up a hill since that would open the power valve and pull more fuel. Pull a plug, and if its jet black, youll be able to pin point it.
Check power valve.
awesome thnx
At 11:23 you talk about putting a hand over the choke primary. I have a Holley 750 (Barry Grant variant) on my 383 stroker. 10.7:1, pretty rowdy cam. No choke plate but when I block off the primary the motor dies.
Showing symptoms of a rich condition but afr is close to perfect. 13.5 ish at idle and high 12s across the board all the way up. I'm already jetted down lower than I think I should for this motor, I was even lower with similar results but currently at 72 primaries, 77 secondaries. Acc pumps are 15 thousandths off at idle, 5.5 PV, needle and seats good, float adjusted at bottom of sight hole, 31 squirters front and back. Valves checked and lash set. It's not like it's running horribly, afr is good but getting some exhaust pop in the higher range and a little smokey (fuel smoke). Any ideas?
So heres a tip. If you have a cam with a decent amount of overlap, your AFR gauge will read false lean at idle and low RPM. The only way to tune that would be with a tach or with a vacuum gauge. First make sure you have enough timing at idle for the cam(tune it the same way, with RPM or Vacuum). Second, set the preliminary idle speed and tune the idle mixture. As you dial it in, the RPM will climb, and once you go too far, itll dip back down. I like the idle a hair rich to compensate for different weather conditions. As for the popping, if it pops on high RPM decel, you probably have the idle speed set too high, you might have an exhaust leak or you're running too rich. If the exhaust pops on consistant acceleration into the upper RPM and you feel the car hesitate, its lean or the plug gap is too wide. If the exhaust pops while you're accelerating in the upper RPM, you're too rich or have an exhaust leak. Hope this helps.
@@NightWrencher timing has been dialed, lightest springs with 38 total and it's very happy there. I did end up finding my popping culprit, #8 plug was closed up and sending unburnt fuel through to be ignited in the collector, must have happened during my last plug read. Don't remember hitting it on anything going in but alas, that issue is fixed.
Still pig fat, blowing puffs of black smoke on throttle cracks and raw fuel smell at idle. I'm gonna look at my transition slot and adjust my secondary blades tomorrow. Plus mess around more with acc pump cams again. I'm thinking my transition slot might be too uncovered with my 1000 rpm idle, cause my idle circuits don't have as much adjustment in them as I think they should.
If your carb is a 2 corner idle carb, do not try to open the secondaries at idle. You're just going to wreck distribution and lower your idle vacuum. 1000rpm at idle is way too high. Even my 73 charger with a 294/294 advertised on a 108 LSA cam shaft, idles smooth at 750 rpm hot. Reset your idle screws and start over from scratch. You want that front throttle plate as closed as possible. Its doesnt "need" to be square but it definately cant be taller than a square.
@@NightWrencher FYI this car is a bracket car, will spend most of its life doing the 1/4 mile. So I don't care about driveability, just peak power without putting holes in pistons lol
ruclips.net/user/shorts_Fve1wtlIOc?si=uIAn6OJWU1n2-kv0 heres a video of my car idling
Very interesting although mines not as simple as that my Toyota will only run at 28 turns on my mixture screw but if I try to turn the screw in the engine just starts to die so I seem to be stuck at twenty eight turns
Could you do a video on the holly sniper
I would but I do not own a holley sniper system.
I'm running rich should I downsize the jet n PV. Thanks for the video
It depends what circuit is rich. Main jet and PV had no effect on idle. Idle and PV has no effect on cruise, etc.
Idle is kind of high try to adjust but nothing stock carburetor had it for some years never did nothing
If its a holley, I have a video on how to set the idle. If its not a holley, I wouldnt be able to tell you where to look. Just make sure you dont have any vacuum leaks
@@NightWrencher yes it's a Holley going to start messing around with that Jets and look for any vacuum leaks
Good luck man, its tricky but just go 1 at a time and you'll get it 👍
Hello, my setup is a Ford straight six, turbo, intercooler, Quick fuel blow through carb and MSD.
Also installed A/F gauge. It reads around 14 and change at idle. Running out of adjustment on mixture screws and it’s still running way too fat. Do I need to look elsewhere??
Thank you
Initial timing maybe?
Hey man, I would definately make sure your initial and total timing is set before you start playing with the AFR because the timing will change the idle vacuum, idle RPM and Idle mixture. Your issue might lie in a few things, 1) possible vacuum leak 2) fuel float level set too low 3) IFR too small 4) low speed air bleeds too big. If your car is an automatic, you can try putting the car in Drive, hold the brake, and start leaning into the throttle and listen for hesitation or popping. That can be an indication of too small of an IFR
What would make one side lean one side rich. Basic same set up as yours.
If you mean left and right, there could be an issue in the carb where you might have some junk blocking the fuel on the lean side. On a single plane you could get left side lean/right side rich or viseversa but in a dual plane, if you have an issue with left and right, something else is going on
im just trying to get my holley 2099 carb tuned on my 65 Rambler Classic 😭😭
Should be pretty easy. Make sure to set your ignition timing before you start messing with the carb and then watch my holley idle video 👍
Hi great video(s). Much appreciated the efford in making those. Wondering if you kindly make a comment on the situation I have with my motorbike/carburator. 250cc. Mikuni-34. The carb is super clean, jets and all. No air leak. However, it stalls after about 30 seconds on idle either on cold start, or, at traffic stops. When driving non-stop/high-rev it is perfectly fine. Perhaps, it is the float level? I played with it but did not help. Should I change pilot jet to something else even though Yamaha indicates 47.5 on manual? Any comment? Thanks a bunch.
I dont have too much experience with motorcycle carbs but you can try covering the air inlet to block most of the air from going in. If the condition gets worse, youre running rich, if it gets better, youre running lean. I'm willing to bet your idle circuit is running lean.
My generator sounds like that popping sound at idle.
Carb newbie here. I have the same carb on my 74 Plymouth. Why do we adjust the front screws and not the back ones?
I thought I had already answered this comment but I guess not. I don't think you have the same carb as me because my carb is not a 4 corner idle carb so it does not have rear idle screws. I have an idle adjustment video on a 4 corner idle and I do go through and adjust all 4.
@@NightWrencher thank you man! Do you have a link for that video? I'd like to give it a watch. Appreciate the help!
No problem, here it is ruclips.net/video/gW55D00zpvg/видео.html
How much engine vacuum should a solid engine show (351 w/ 4bbl Holley carb) I was tunning it for a friend but could only get 16.5 vacuum...86 ford f150 351 crate engine. It is running smooth though.
Theres no specific number. Vacuum changes depending on the cam. Just dial in the timing and idle mixture for max vacuum and thats what it will be.
@@NightWrencher cool thanks....where are you located...I'm in El Paso,tx, really like your channel....thanks again.
Just found your video, i have a 350 with flat top pistons. A holley 600 carb, it sounds like a cam in it when idleing but its not that much of a cam. I tryed leaning it 1/8 turn balanced and it wanted to die at lights and was stumbling. I put it back richer and it was ok, but my plugs are dark? I just got a vacuum gauge, what should it read when correct tuned?
Great vid as usual!
Im having a problem where Ive dialed it in as far as smooth running and 800 rpm but am still running rich (smoke in the exhaust, stinging eyes, carbon on the plugs). Ive got a demon 850 on a 454 with a mild cam. I also did the air restriction test covering the air flow and the rpm drops off and stalls. Each corner idle mix is 1/2 turn out.
Depending on the lope of the cam, it could be normal, but what is your timing set at idle?
@@NightWrencher Ill let you know shortly...day or so. Typically what would you say it should be all in and at idle?
All in lands somewhere in the 30-36 range. Idle around 15-20
@@NightWrencher Im at 26 at idle.
That seems like a lot but as it starts up like its supposed to, its ok. Do you have a 4 corner idle carb?
thank you that was very helpful!!! thumbs up, and I was already subbed!!!
I thought the idle circuit was for idle only .. cause once your throttle opens past the idle circuit it is no more
Thats not quite true. All the circuits stack on top of each other the idle circuit makes less of an impact with more throttle but it still makes a difference in the tune.
@@NightWrencher but yet if your idle is to high and the the thortles blades are past the circuit slots you'll never get your air fuel set right and also your jetting will also play part with your power valve as for tuning also for lean or rich vacuum also has a play there also
Biggest impact the idle feed will have on the tune is in the transition circuit. Once you go into the main circuit, so much air is flowing through the engine that the small amount of fuel from both idle and transition wont make too much of an difference. The point of the video was not to show you how to fix a lean or rich condition on your carb, it was so you can identify a lean or rich condition based on sound reguardless of what circuit you're in. If you want to tune individual circuits, I have seperate videos on each of them in my holley carb secrets playlist
Not trying to down any thing you say I'm still learning also my self ... Keep up the research as I am also it all a bit tricky to rap my head around specially with a modified engines I have a lowered 89 Silverado with 383ci 750 double pumper and a 60 olds with a 454 bored 100ths 477ci with a 850 double pumper fun fun fun .. head ache head ache head ache ... Lol got to love em though...
@@NightWrencher I'll check em out thanks
God bless you always in Yahweh name
Wrong. Running lean is more dangerous than running rich. Engine runs hotter if its too Lean. Running slightly rich is actually preferable especially in winter time
Lol, by sound. Lol
Mine sounds like it has a cam but also pops and hesitates 😭
Idle could be rich and part throttle could be lean. Not enough timing is also an issue
@@NightWrencher what would cause that? Also I have a volvo 340 and the timing cannot be adjusted
@@Kabeeb You would have to identify exactly whats happening and then adjust that in your carburetor. So for example, if you car is running rich/lean at idle, you would have to reset your idle speed and idle mixture screws and tune them to accordingly. If your carburetor is non tunable, and your timing can't be adjusted then there might be something wrong inside your carburetor or you have and outside force like fuel pressure, regulator problems, internal leaking, things like that.
You need tighter shots of the carburetor; I don’t know what screws you’re turning.
idle mixture screws, usually 2 or 4 screws that look the same
Oh no a ls in a mopar??? Ahhhhh
😂
I know mine is running rich at idle lol!🤭🤨😐😔😔🥺😤😤😤
Time to adjust it down!
All y'all just need to buy a wideband
Well a wideband is only half the story. On rowdy cams with a lot of duration, a wideband is pretty much useless at low load/ low rpms because of the amount of air passing to the exhaust during overlap. Also, if your o2 sensor is going out, itll tend to read rich so if you know what to look for, you can verify if the wide band is reading right or not. My favorite tuning device is a wideband but theres a time and place for everything.
@@NightWrencher This must be why I gave up on my wideband, started over the old school way,
Yeah, its tricky sometimes 👍
Yeah, its tricky sometimes 👍
There's no "secrets" here. Just the basics I already know. I can't get my Holley 750 to idle clean. It's running rich like a pig at idle and I can't clean it up.
How much ignition timing are you running at idle?
@@NightWrencher I had it at 6 but I bumped it up to 10 and it seems way better. I got the carb tuned so it's not running rich. My idle between park and drive are VERY drastic though so now I'm trying to figure that out.
I would add another 5 degrees of inital timing or move your vacuum advance to the manifold
@@NightWrencher vac advance is already at manifold. The problem with advancing, seems to make it much harder to turn over and the starter, battery and wires are all new.
Usually you can get away with 13-15 at idle before the start starts to struggle. Low RPM in drive can be too tight of converter for the cam, idle too lean or not enough base timing