I saw another RUclips video about poly pipe that recommended against heating the pipe, because it could change the material properties that allow the pe to seal. I used a propane torch to warm the poly pipe before clamping, and it worked great. Clearly, many professionals appear to use heat. Thoughts?
It does change the chemical properties, causing the poly to not last as long is some cases. Sometimes it’s the last saving grace though. Can also use a little bit of dish soap on the barb fitting
I bought 3/4 inches poly 100 PSI and I am doing drip lines off it. The pipe is so hard so I bought a pro puncher but what's the easiest way to get the drippers punched into the holes without hurting you hands??
I wonder if you have answers to my questions: 1) Just today, the plastic barbed fitting broke off inside the poly pipe. How to take it out? 2) The poly pipe comes from the well house/pump, about 4' before house foundation it was connected to the Galvanized pipes and a hydrant. All of it rusted and needed to be replaced. Should I use Pex or copper? Pipes in the crawlspace are copper. 3) I also Thinking to lower the pressure tank and connect to the pump about 10' - 15' under the ground to eliminate heating well house in the winter season. My pipe runs about 6' under the ground. A) is it a good idea? B) how to do it? 4) Should I install another pressure tank under the house in the crawl space? The well is about 30 yards away from the house. Also I found a 5" PVC well pipe in the field. PVC pipe broken, leveled with the ground. What to use to close it, to prevent from debris to fall down? How to find if it has water and how deep? Also what camera to buy to inspect the well? What 4" pump and water tank brands and models are best?
Homedepot guy said you got to use the crimp, made no sense, my gut thought he was wrong and to use the screw driver gear clamp. But what do I know, I’m a photographer 😁. Switching gear clamp maybe that will resolve the fast drip leak. Edit: thanks for the non-dramatic video.
Poly is absolutely terrible. It is so much more trouble than it's worth. Especially after it ages, stretches, gets brittle, breaks, it's terrible. The main water line coming into my house and it's been a non stop problem.
Nice intro but the real problem with poly is getting the the rib connector on and more importantly getting them off as to not loose pipe length. This you did not address. Why?
I saw another RUclips video about poly pipe that recommended against heating the pipe, because it could change the material properties that allow the pe to seal. I used a propane torch to warm the poly pipe before clamping, and it worked great. Clearly, many professionals appear to use heat. Thoughts?
It does change the chemical properties, causing the poly to not last as long is some cases. Sometimes it’s the last saving grace though. Can also use a little bit of dish soap on the barb fitting
You should always use two gear clamps per side of any poly...
I bought 3/4 inches poly 100 PSI and I am doing drip lines off it. The pipe is so hard so I bought a pro puncher but what's the easiest way to get the drippers punched into the holes without hurting you hands??
I wonder if you have answers to my questions:
1) Just today, the plastic barbed fitting broke off inside the poly pipe. How to take it out?
2) The poly pipe comes from the well house/pump, about 4' before house foundation it was connected to the Galvanized pipes and a hydrant. All of it rusted and needed to be replaced. Should I use Pex or copper? Pipes in the crawlspace are copper.
3) I also Thinking to lower the pressure tank and connect to the pump about 10' - 15' under the ground to eliminate heating well house in the winter season. My pipe runs about 6' under the ground.
A) is it a good idea? B) how to do it?
4) Should I install another pressure tank under the house in the crawl space? The well is about 30 yards away from the house.
Also
I found a 5" PVC well pipe in the field. PVC pipe broken, leveled with the ground. What to use to close it, to prevent from debris to fall down? How to find if it has water and how deep? Also what camera to buy to inspect the well? What 4" pump and water tank brands and models are best?
Curious how this would perform for compressed air in shop.
Hello D's-P-S, ...
do you ever utilize any TEFLON pipe sealant on your Hose Barbs ?
COOP
...
Enjoyed your video, very informative!
Thank you - great summary!
Thanks, this was useful and you guys are local to me, bonus.
Is polypipe food safe, like for drinking water?
Been used in our home as our main water supply for over 40 yrs apparently.
Is that clamp tool 60 foot-pounds or inch-pounds?
Inch pounds (5 ft lbs)
Also make sure the entire clamp (every part including the screw) is stainless steel or else it will rust away
can the hdpe pipe be glued to pvc fittings?
Unfortunately not, but we have fittings that adapt from HDPE to PVC.
@@durksplumbingsupply6192 What would you use to tie in PEX to HDPE?
@@dutch1999 adapter fitting
Homedepot guy said you got to use the crimp, made no sense, my gut thought he was wrong and to use the screw driver gear clamp. But what do I know, I’m a photographer 😁. Switching gear clamp maybe that will resolve the fast drip leak. Edit: thanks for the non-dramatic video.
Sounds like he was talking about PEX.
Thank you so much!
Poly is absolutely terrible. It is so much more trouble than it's worth. Especially after it ages, stretches, gets brittle, breaks, it's terrible. The main water line coming into my house and it's been a non stop problem.
Thank You
You forgot that CPS poly is polyethylene.
Nice intro but the real problem with poly is getting the the rib connector on and more importantly getting them off as to not loose pipe length. This you did not address. Why?
Good job explaining
. Thank you.