Thank you for the video. My husband passed in February and we were going to get an RV and travel selling everything we have. So now I'm doing it. I have 5 solar panels that he was going to install on our house. But now I think I will use these for the RV. I just need to look further to understand how to set up the entire system. I have a Aims Inverter Charger. 120v. I have plenty of batteries around this place all plugged in keeping charged. I like the strip pieces you installed on the roof. Great idea that I will probably do. I have a Class C 28' RV. I'm 68 years old and I hope I can pull this off. I am renovating the RV on my own. It's beautiful!
Love that you are carrying on with dreams and plans even with such a great loss. Go for it! I bought a trailer last year and toured Az for the winter.. Also now putting a solar system together.
This panel can put out close to 100 watts ruclips.net/user/postUgkxOqI2yqX0XVrhR2BMJciTWrHJpG8FhJyg when positioned in the appropriate southernly direction, tilted to the optimal angle for your latitude/date, and connected to a higher capacity device than a 500. The built in kickstand angle is a fixed at 50 degrees. Up to 20% more power can be output by selecting the actual date and latitude optimal angle.The 500 will only input 3.5A maximum at 18 volts for 63 watts. Some of the excess power from the panel can be fed into a USB battery bank, charged directly from the panel while also charging a 500. This will allow you to harvest as much as 63 + 15 = 78 watts.If this panel is used to charge a larger device, such as the power station, then its full output potential can be realized.
On my install I applied Eternabond tape in each spot where a bracket screwed into the roof. After drilling the holes through the Eternabond, I applied Dicor to each screw before driving it in. Then I sealed the bracket/screw heads with a liberal amount of self leveling Dicor. I inspect those several times a year, and add sealant on top if needed. All the sealants - Dicor included - will dry out and crack in direct proportion to the amount of sun/weather it receives... usually within a year or two. Eternabond has been known to last many, many years - a far superior seal than lap sealant. Keep a close watch on those screws holding your brackets. If that sealant dries out and cracks, there is nothing stopping water from wicking through into your ceiling. Lastly... I've seen 10+ year old TPO roofs with jigsaw puzzle Eternabond patching... and NO leaks. Remember, no one can see your roof anyway. If I ever reconfigure/update my panels I'll just overlay the existing holes with Eternabond and be done.
Another option is residential solar rails. I’ve heard but haven’t personally experienced that Unistrut collects debris because there’s no air gap. I used IronRidge XR10 rails. They’re made out of aluminum and super lightweight. A 14’ span is only 6 pounds and incredibly strong. I paid $43 per 14’ rail. Only issue is that it’s slightly more difficult to find. I got mine at a Rexel but you can try contacting a solar distributor or electrical supply business nearby for pickup.
They made fittings for unistrut that are made per the gauge of the strut (12, 14 and 16 if I remember correctly?). The fitting I have in mind is basically what you’re doing but stronger and cleaner. The fittings for unisteut is a little pricey for what it is (between $12-$20 if my memory is right)
Thanks for the tips! I will be putting a second 370 watt panel on our new Brinkley in the next few weeks. Not sure if I can use you the method you did but it is interesting. The Brinkley comes with one 370 watt panel and a 50 amp charge controller installed. I will put a second panel and a 3000 watt inverter in. Also they use a special self leveling caulk which I already got with the kit. Thanks again. Burlington Bill singer songwriter busking on the road and here on You-Tube.
Nice, I'm gonna use this setup on my RV. I'll give you a shout out when I make my install video. You have some nice roof space up there. you could easily put enough panels to run your AC(going over that pipe vent). I'm installing a 48V battery and should be able to run my single AC unit during the day and then should have enough power to run my AC for 5 hours after the sun goes down. cheers.
To run my ac I have 1400 ways solar ! 3,000 watt aimes charge invertor! 10 lithium batteries! Gets so hot driving the Moterhome I had to take action to keep it cool while we drive
Great Video as I’m about to do the same exact install on my new Jayco! I guess my only concern would be the struts acting as 10ft dam like areas where water could sit on the roof? This happens at roof seams and typically is the spot of most leaks.
Well done! Couple questions…1. Where did you get. The “channel swivel nuts” or whatever they are called. 2. Did you use a stud sensor to try to screw your lags into the studs, or not worry about it? 3. How many lags did you use, or how many per feet? 4. I may have missed it - fiberglass roof or rubber over wood? 5. Did you use galvanized lag bolts and washers? Or not worry about it given the dicor cover? Thanks much! I subscribed!
Hey, I got all the hardware from home depot or lowes. they both carry these systems... Look near the electrical conduit and stuff. I did not use a stud sensor the roof is ply-wood and has plenty to screw in to anywhere. I think I used 4 lag bolts per channel. about 1 every 24 inches or so. I used both galvanized and stainless steel hardware. maybe some zinc coated too... Hope these helped. Thanks for following along. check out my other RV focus channel too. @thebrodiebunch
@@BeavBrodie1 Naaaice! Thank you for your video and further information on where we can find the rail and how far a part you screwed in. We will do the same set up!
The Channel is called THIN UNISTRUT IE REGULAR UNISTRUT is the same height as it is wide. Those nuts are called SPRING NUTS FOR UNISTRUT. they start in 1/4" Threaded holes and go up to 5/8ths " Threaded holes. Unistrut and spring nuts are the Lamborghini of outdoor universal mounting hardware. Anywhere you look on the most important structures that is what's there they also have Hundreds of types of mounting hardware and make all of it in Lightweight Aluminum but it's expensive and worth the cash
Wish I could make a plan to discuss my install with you. My son and I live in a trailer and want to add solar to go off grid. I don't want to use gas for refer/hot water heater, I want them on solar power with lights. Basically, I want solar as if I were plugged into 30amp power. Jonesy
Curious how your inverter is wired into this. Also I’m looking at a Victron MPPT controller with a 200W panel to maintain my two Type 24 AGM batteries for now and possibly expand later.
Have you noticed how the water drains now? I’m concerned about water damming up against the strut. Maybe I’ll put some washers under the attachment points to the roof to raise the struts slightly. Overall great video, thanks!
Great video, im planning on doing this exact same install on my 5th wheel. One question, what size bolts did you use for the drop in nut in the channel. 1/4 or 3/8? I was worried about 1/4 not being big enough for a strong wind. Also how long of bolts did you use for those, 1 inch? Thanks in advance for any information, and DIY people like me, rely on videos like yours to give us the information we need to do it ourselves. Keep up the great work.
Love watching your videos on the Jayco since i cant find anyone showing real world usage with it. Can you do a video showing what its like towing, what you like/dislike, and things you wish you would havw known? We will be getting one next year, so anything i can learn ahead of time is great.
You saw this at “Some other random RUclips video”. If you were transparent which sorry you are not, you would link that fellow’s RUclips. He addresses many more of the details involved in mounting panels with strut channel than you seem to be aware of. Fellow rv solar installers beware.
i am uncomfortable drilling into the roof, tho i appreciate your video.. for making the panels more secure, but i am using the no drill bracket method with eternabond.. ( i am parked at a campground and i just want to have uninterruptible power) and add resell value of course, .. but i have 1kwh of panels (24v) going to a hybrid 3kw all in one inverter (powmr) that can take shore/grid power, PV (solar) and use battery for load .. with priority settings.. using PV 1st then battery to a low 20% state (i set that) and after that it will pull from grid .. to power the RV and also charge batteries back to 80% before the batteries take over again.. or if the sun comes out PV takes priority to run load and charge. all told cost was 2200.00 .. I am surprised your not running something like that for the cost basis and scalability.. I can scale my system to 5kw in solar and 50kwh of battery as the inverter can handle 450V of panels.
I like the install, but I'm concerned about corrosion on the HD unistrut channel and nuts. SS Unistrut would great. I saw an install recently that was done with epoxy, no screws into the roof.
Hello . Once plugged in the battery that comes with the trailer are all you need or do you have to add more batteries to the rig Now we have to. 6v tied together
Can you drill mounts anywhere on a rv roof or is there studs to lool for? All videos i have watched seems nobody shows them looking for studs for a solid mount.
Hey, thanks! I did not go in to any trusses or framing, (that I know of) Hard to locate. my roof is solid plywood. making it hard to located, but also plenty strong to screw down the tracks anywhere.
I used your hand me down idea to install 12 - 100 Watts panels on my friends big motor home , but the wireling is what's getting me confused , should I wire them in parallel or in series? He has a good inverter and a solar charger, but he like to run a lot of thin at the same time, can you help me with this please.
@@ramirorodriguez9611 It’s going to depend on how much voltage the solar control can handle. There’s several other nuances to this. Series will add voltage with every panel. Parallel will add amperage but voltage will stay the same. You may end up having to do a combination of both with some calculations to select the correct wire size etc. I know this isn’t a super helpful answer and might raise more questions.
Hey great video. I have a Jayco north point and have considered adding solar and an inverter. The rig has solar prep and like how easy you showed it could be configured for solar. You say that you put in a shunt from victron and an inverter from Renolgy. Do you have any pictures of how or where you installed these items? I was considering installing the victron multipro2 inverter and was hoping to get insight on the renolgy installation as it may give me ideas for the victron inverter install. Thanks
Great idea but, stainless strut and hardware would be better. You can also use strut flat t’s, also stainless. They also have strut covers that will allow you to use the stuff itself as a raceway for your wire.
I did install this inverter, but it’s not the one I’m going to use permanently. for various reasons. I really want an all in one power inverter, converter… Victron Energy multi plus II.
Because I don’t understand the terms used at the end of the video, I’d take that as a sign of disrespect! 🤣🤣🤣 jk!!! I need an RV!! Awesome video again!!!!
If you install it properly? What, do you think you are talking to idiots? Ya and you wonder about your watt output on your solar panels? Just who do you think you are? They don't call it U-BOOB for nothing. 😂😂😂
Thank you for the video. My husband passed in February and we were going to get an RV and travel selling everything we have. So now I'm doing it. I have 5 solar panels that he was going to install on our house. But now I think I will use these for the RV. I just need to look further to understand how to set up the entire system. I have a Aims Inverter Charger. 120v. I have plenty of batteries around this place all plugged in keeping charged. I like the strip pieces you installed on the roof. Great idea that I will probably do. I have a Class C 28' RV. I'm 68 years old and I hope I can pull this off. I am renovating the RV on my own. It's beautiful!
Love that you are carrying on with dreams and plans even with such a great loss. Go for it!
I bought a trailer last year and toured Az for the winter.. Also now putting a solar system together.
That's horrible I'm so sorry I hope if your on the road right now I hope it's going amazing
Sorry for your loss
This panel can put out close to 100 watts ruclips.net/user/postUgkxOqI2yqX0XVrhR2BMJciTWrHJpG8FhJyg when positioned in the appropriate southernly direction, tilted to the optimal angle for your latitude/date, and connected to a higher capacity device than a 500. The built in kickstand angle is a fixed at 50 degrees. Up to 20% more power can be output by selecting the actual date and latitude optimal angle.The 500 will only input 3.5A maximum at 18 volts for 63 watts. Some of the excess power from the panel can be fed into a USB battery bank, charged directly from the panel while also charging a 500. This will allow you to harvest as much as 63 + 15 = 78 watts.If this panel is used to charge a larger device, such as the power station, then its full output potential can be realized.
On my install I applied Eternabond tape in each spot where a bracket screwed into the roof. After drilling the holes through the Eternabond, I applied Dicor to each screw before driving it in. Then I sealed the bracket/screw heads with a liberal amount of self leveling Dicor. I inspect those several times a year, and add sealant on top if needed.
All the sealants - Dicor included - will dry out and crack in direct proportion to the amount of sun/weather it receives... usually within a year or two. Eternabond has been known to last many, many years - a far superior seal than lap sealant. Keep a close watch on those screws holding your brackets. If that sealant dries out and cracks, there is nothing stopping water from wicking through into your ceiling.
Lastly... I've seen 10+ year old TPO roofs with jigsaw puzzle Eternabond patching... and NO leaks. Remember, no one can see your roof anyway. If I ever reconfigure/update my panels I'll just overlay the existing holes with Eternabond and be done.
I police RV roofs for beauty! lol
Great video, well done. You did what so many people do not. You got to the point with relevant information. Thank you!
Ibex and No Boundary come with these channels, it made expanding our solar way easier
One of the best video's I've seen on this subject, thank you for sharing.
Dude that unistrut is a great idea thanks very much !
I recommend SquareSolar. They are just so much easier to install, and you can really maximize your output since they are modular. Worth checking out.
Another option is residential solar rails. I’ve heard but haven’t personally experienced that Unistrut collects debris because there’s no air gap.
I used IronRidge XR10 rails. They’re made out of aluminum and super lightweight. A 14’ span is only 6 pounds and incredibly strong. I paid $43 per 14’ rail.
Only issue is that it’s slightly more difficult to find. I got mine at a Rexel but you can try contacting a solar distributor or electrical supply business nearby for pickup.
Have to say what a great video!
Really enjoyed the mounting idea for the panels.
Put more solar panels so u not pissin off ya neibours at night running a noisy generator mate , nice installation vid 👍
They made fittings for unistrut that are made per the gauge of the strut (12, 14 and 16 if I remember correctly?).
The fitting I have in mind is basically what you’re doing but stronger and cleaner. The fittings for unisteut is a little pricey for what it is (between $12-$20 if my memory is right)
Thanks for the tips! I will be putting a second 370 watt panel on our new Brinkley in the next few weeks. Not sure if I can use you the method you did but it is interesting. The Brinkley comes with one 370 watt panel and a 50 amp charge controller installed. I will put a second panel and a 3000 watt inverter in. Also they use a special self leveling caulk which I already got with the kit. Thanks again. Burlington Bill singer songwriter busking on the road and here on You-Tube.
That’s a pretty slick idea. I may have to do this if I add solar.
Great video. Solid information. Mount system was the right way
Thanks for the video. The mounting was the exact thing i wanted different to do
Unistrut is the answer to everything
Nice, I'm gonna use this setup on my RV. I'll give you a shout out when I make my install video. You have some nice roof space up there. you could easily put enough panels to run your AC(going over that pipe vent). I'm installing a 48V battery and should be able to run my single AC unit during the day and then should have enough power to run my AC for 5 hours after the sun goes down. cheers.
To run my ac I have 1400 ways solar ! 3,000 watt aimes charge invertor! 10 lithium batteries! Gets so hot driving the Moterhome I had to take action to keep it cool while we drive
Great Video as I’m about to do the same exact install on my new Jayco! I guess my only concern would be the struts acting as 10ft dam like areas where water could sit on the roof? This happens at roof seams and typically is the spot of most leaks.
Well done! Couple questions…1. Where did you get. The “channel swivel nuts” or whatever they are called. 2. Did you use a stud sensor to try to screw your lags into the studs, or not worry about it? 3. How many lags did you use, or how many per feet? 4. I may have missed it - fiberglass roof or rubber over wood? 5. Did you use galvanized lag bolts and washers? Or not worry about it given the dicor cover? Thanks much! I subscribed!
Hey, I got all the hardware from home depot or lowes. they both carry these systems... Look near the electrical conduit and stuff. I did not use a stud sensor the roof is ply-wood and has plenty to screw in to anywhere. I think I used 4 lag bolts per channel. about 1 every 24 inches or so. I used both galvanized and stainless steel hardware. maybe some zinc coated too... Hope these helped. Thanks for following along. check out my other RV focus channel too. @thebrodiebunch
@@BeavBrodie1 Naaaice! Thank you for your video and further information on where we can find the rail and how far a part you screwed in. We will do the same set up!
The Channel is called
THIN UNISTRUT IE REGULAR UNISTRUT is the same height as it is wide.
Those nuts are called
SPRING NUTS FOR UNISTRUT.
they start in 1/4" Threaded holes and go up to 5/8ths " Threaded holes.
Unistrut and spring nuts are the Lamborghini of outdoor universal mounting hardware.
Anywhere you look on the most important structures that is what's there they also have Hundreds of types of mounting hardware and make all of it in Lightweight Aluminum but it's expensive and worth the cash
one of the best installation videos. learnt a lot. THX!
🙌🏽🙌🏽
Wish I could make a plan to discuss my install with you. My son and I live in a trailer and want to add solar to go off grid. I don't want to use gas for refer/hot water heater, I want them on solar power with lights. Basically, I want solar as if I were plugged into 30amp power. Jonesy
Great video! do you have one installing an inverter on a solar/inverter prep RV?
this is how I want mine... those lags looked like 1 1/4" and galvanized... Yes?
Curious how your inverter is wired into this. Also I’m looking at a Victron MPPT controller with a 200W panel to maintain my two Type 24 AGM batteries for now and possibly expand later.
should have gotten the RV-C MPPT controller and hooked it to the Jaycommand then the info would be on your phone and tablet.
Have you noticed how the water drains now? I’m concerned about water damming up against the strut. Maybe I’ll put some washers under the attachment points to the roof to raise the struts slightly. Overall great video, thanks!
I would agree with this thought. I would also like to use stainless as galvanized can still rust and drip rust onto the roof.
2 years later. Did you have any issues with the self tapers vibrating loose?
Great video, im planning on doing this exact same install on my 5th wheel. One question, what size bolts did you use for the drop in nut in the channel. 1/4 or 3/8? I was worried about 1/4 not being big enough for a strong wind. Also how long of bolts did you use for those, 1 inch? Thanks in advance for any information, and DIY people like me, rely on videos like yours to give us the information we need to do it ourselves. Keep up the great work.
Love watching your videos on the Jayco since i cant find anyone showing real world usage with it. Can you do a video showing what its like towing, what you like/dislike, and things you wish you would havw known? We will be getting one next year, so anything i can learn ahead of time is great.
Thanks for following along. I’ll do my best to include that stuff. but really, it’s great. No problems or concerns to speak of so far.
You saw this at “Some other random RUclips video”. If you were transparent which sorry you are not, you would link that fellow’s RUclips. He addresses many more of the details involved in mounting panels with strut channel than you seem to be aware of. Fellow rv solar installers beware.
Will the converter and the solar power not create a conflict with charging and discharging?
what do you think about laying butyl tape under the racks in order to help water out?
i am uncomfortable drilling into the roof, tho i appreciate your video.. for making the panels more secure, but i am using the no drill bracket method with eternabond.. ( i am parked at a campground and i just want to have uninterruptible power) and add resell value of course, .. but i have 1kwh of panels (24v) going to a hybrid 3kw all in one inverter (powmr) that can take shore/grid power, PV (solar) and use battery for load .. with priority settings.. using PV 1st then battery to a low 20% state (i set that) and after that it will pull from grid .. to power the RV and also charge batteries back to 80% before the batteries take over again.. or if the sun comes out PV takes priority to run load and charge. all told cost was 2200.00 .. I am surprised your not running something like that for the cost basis and scalability.. I can scale my system to 5kw in solar and 50kwh of battery as the inverter can handle 450V of panels.
Is there room to drill a 1/4 inch hole through the top of the panels aluminum frame?
Great video. Could you please tell me what type of small wood cutter you are using. Is small enough to cut with precision. Thank you
Thank you. I'm using a small air powered reciprocating saw.
Great video
Thanks
Your uni-strut sure looks like the plated kind but not galvanized. I hope I'm wrong.
I double checked what the home improvement stores have. Its Gold Galvanized they say.
I like the install, but I'm concerned about corrosion on the HD unistrut channel and nuts. SS Unistrut would great.
I saw an install recently that was done with epoxy, no screws into the roof.
That’s an option too, but no flexibility in the future and the epoxy is only holding to the roof membrane. unless you have a fiberglass roof..?
@Beav Brodie yes good point. I was thinking of fiberglass roofs.
Don't know if anyone raised this issue...but what about fuses or circuit breakers?
Can Chanel be installed with just eturnabond tape?
Hello .
Once plugged in the battery that comes with the trailer are all you need or do you have to add more batteries to the rig
Now we have to. 6v tied together
love this, great job!
Can you drill mounts anywhere on a rv roof or is there studs to lool for? All videos i have watched seems nobody shows them looking for studs for a solid mount.
question what about the connection to the the main panel in the trailer do you need a switch to bypass? I am new to this
Excellent video. Well we’ll explained! Did you screw the lag bolts into the RV’s roof trusses? I’m thinking about adding solar to mine.
Hey, thanks! I did not go in to any trusses or framing, (that I know of) Hard to locate. my roof is solid plywood. making it hard to located, but also plenty strong to screw down the tracks anywhere.
I used your hand me down idea to install 12 - 100 Watts panels on my friends big motor home , but the wireling is what's getting me confused , should I wire them in parallel or in series? He has a good inverter and a solar charger, but he like to run a lot of thin at the same time, can you help me with this please.
@@ramirorodriguez9611 It’s going to depend on how much voltage the solar control can handle. There’s several other nuances to this.
Series will add voltage with every panel.
Parallel will add amperage but voltage will stay the same.
You may end up having to do a combination of
both with some calculations to select the correct wire size etc.
I know this isn’t a super helpful answer and might raise more questions.
Question was that 1" lag bolt you used on strut channel
Nice job!
Hey great video. I have a Jayco north point and have considered adding solar and an inverter. The rig has solar prep and like how easy you showed it could be configured for solar. You say that you put in a shunt from victron and an inverter from Renolgy. Do you have any pictures of how or where you installed these items? I was considering installing the victron multipro2 inverter and was hoping to get insight on the renolgy installation as it may give me ideas for the victron inverter install. Thanks
What kind of strut, was it pre-galvanized, stainless, aluminum or? How id it holding up a year in?
Galvanized, andit’s doing great. No problems at all.
Great idea but, stainless strut and hardware would be better. You can also use strut flat t’s, also stainless. They also have strut covers that will allow you to use the stuff itself as a raceway for your wire.
Great vid, thanks! What length lag bolts did you screw into the rv roof, plz?
they were apx 1inch
@@BeavBrodie1 thanks much! 😊
is there any worry putting these on the roof with wind getting under it while traveling and ripping them off?
Not if you screwing into a wood roof or the studs. This is going to be more secure than the standard solar panel mounts. 👍🏼
What setup did you use for an inverter?
Do you have links for the tracks that you used to mount these on... I love the way you did this great job sir.
www.lowes.com/pd/Adamax-Adamax-14-Gauge-Channel-Strut-EG-10-FT/5001904579
😀👍Good Stuff, Great Tips
Drop the group 24 garbage and go lifepo4 battery 1280watts per 100ah can buy run down to 0% battery and lasts 10 years and weighs 1/2 or less
Is your RV genset loud ?
The galvanized unistrut is only a good idea until it starts rusting, which doesn't take to long. Then you ready for a whole roof replacement for $10k.
Galvanized stuff doesn't rust. No problems here.
Sweet install! Cringe factory sloppy wiring!
Wind test?
I’ve driven thousands of miles, From South Carolina to the FL keys, from the Keys to OHIO back to South Carolina and more. no problems
Did you install the inverter?
I did install this inverter, but it’s not the one I’m going to use permanently. for various reasons. I really want an all in one power inverter, converter… Victron Energy multi plus II.
Because I don’t understand the terms used at the end of the video, I’d take that as a sign of disrespect! 🤣🤣🤣 jk!!! I need an RV!! Awesome video again!!!!
haha. thanks buddy!!
Nice
👍👍
Factory “solar prep” is a joke if the wiring is cheap…10 or even 12 gauge.
It looks easy to install then you start talking shunts and stuff and it threw me off.
If you install it properly? What, do you think you are talking to idiots? Ya and you wonder about your watt output on your solar panels? Just who do you think you are? They don't call it U-BOOB for nothing. 😂😂😂