Hi Dario, well of course! It’s really about making use of the kinetic chain, blocking or braking various movements to allow the momentum to pass up through to the next link. It’s not uncommon to hear instructors teaching “no wrist”, which is to remove one link in this chain forcing the casting stroke’s acceleration to be generated through forearm movement, as opposed to forearm braking and wrist flip. “Forearm only” is a more tiring way of flycasting (and not how we evolved to throw!).This is a drill to fix the frozen wrist and develop forearm braking. Part two of this drill is to backcast haul to a straight hauling arm as the wrist flips. An excellent drill for timing the haul.
Paul a bit off topic in a way but what type of line are you using , is a double taper better for picking up a lot of line ie when you have a lot of line out on the water then a fish shows far out and you have to pick all that line up to cast to it ,compared to a weight forward, due to the fact a WF has a kind of length/sweet spot where you have to keep in the air in order to shoot line and if you go past it the line/ loops collapse on you , where a DT doesn't but in a way harder to cast . Could you advise what the main uses of both line are ie WF or DT , i apologise for being thick , i always use a WF because i fish in tightish areas and find them easier to roll cast , is it me doing it wrong and should i try a DT. All the best , David.
@@davidhaddon2854 here I’m using the SA Mastery Expert Distance 5WT with a 68’ head. I do use DTs. On my HT4 I use a SA DT4. www.sexyloops.com/articles/wfvsdt.shtml#:~:text=Good%20consistent%20loops%20and%20practice,be%20in%20the%20rod%20tip.
Love it as usual Paul, I’ve learned a ton from you as a new fly angler. Would you mind letting me know what line model and weight you are using in this video? I like the orange color for training, makes it easier to see my loops in the air. Thanks again!
Thanks Gaither. That line is a Scientific Anglers Mastery Expert Distance. I usually use a 5WT in these videos. Some of the earlier videos was a MED6. This the line that Bruce and I talked about in the previous in the previous. Cheers!
Hi Richard, tailing loops are caused when the rod tip path buckles and puts a wave in the fly leg. There are a few possible causes www.sexyloops.com/flycast/tailing-loops/ First I’d check the tackle. Soft rod tip, heavy line and a short leader makes life harder to avoid. It’s unlikely this is the problem. It’s more likely either anticipating the next cast and/or an abrupt/non-smooth casting stroke. I’ll add some drills to play with. Be sure to train them all short to long line lengths!
ruclips.net/video/1sL8Sfe68Pg/видео.htmlfeature=shared sorry I couldn’t add them in one post because when I search for them RUclips loses my reply 😆 In essence I would have you rebuild your stroke being smooth starting with a short line building to a longer carry. It will take some time but the result won’t just be the elimination of tails but more loop control etc. Tails can be very frustrating. Another method we use to remove them is to learn to control tails by intentionally casting them. But now there is too much information 😎 Do practise loop control with a very short line (6’ of flyline) and build from there! Cheers
@@SexyloopsTV Sounds to me like you might be shocking (overpowering) the rod. Remember that fly casting is not about strength. Some of the best flycasters are ladies. No one can address YOUR particular problems until they see you cast. Most casting problems can be fixed by improved timing, fixing the breaks in your stroke, ie. elbows and wrists, fixing stop/start points, AND STOP trying to force it. I will assume you have already made sure that your line and rod are matched and of sufficient quality. (quality doesn't mean expensive, necessarily)
@@SexyloopsTV Ha! I was pushing how far I could pick up and put down practising yesterday. Didn't even injure myself. Be keen to see how to do it properly. Great stuff, really appreciate you sharing. 🙂 PP
@@mrpoopypants9586 yep I really want to get this idea across that we are moving momentum from the body to the hand towards the end of the stroke. This makes casting so much easier. We still have to stop the hand too sometimes of course. I think about stopping body parts from moving and the one that I focus on the most is the forearm block. That AND targets, particularly positioning and ringing that backcast bell, will transform the backcast. It’s very common for anglers to totally forget about the backcast target when a fish appears… disaster!! 😆 It has to be ingrained that there always two targets.
This is the better version. Thank you!
You are my favorite English Hillbilly casting instructor!
😆
No wind and no drifting boats is no fun :)
Brilliant as always. Please keep it coming.
Paul , thank you for that , another great tips vid , all the best , David . Breaking it down helps me no end ta.
Fantastic drill!
Zdravo bio dragi ČOVEČE, ako nešto zafali, znam Čoveka koji zna Čoveka...! Švrća je u potpisu...!
Hi Paul nice video. Thank you. And I think that there is a momentum transfer for each of the body's segments involved in the cast for any casts
Hi Dario, well of course! It’s really about making use of the kinetic chain, blocking or braking various movements to allow the momentum to pass up through to the next link. It’s not uncommon to hear instructors teaching “no wrist”, which is to remove one link in this chain forcing the casting stroke’s acceleration to be generated through forearm movement, as opposed to forearm braking and wrist flip. “Forearm only” is a more tiring way of flycasting (and not how we evolved to throw!).This is a drill to fix the frozen wrist and develop forearm braking.
Part two of this drill is to backcast haul to a straight hauling arm as the wrist flips. An excellent drill for timing the haul.
@@SexyloopsTV absolutely agree. Happy Easter!
Paul a bit off topic in a way but what type of line are you using , is a double taper better for picking up a lot of line ie when you have a lot of line out on the water then a fish shows far out and you have to pick all that line up to cast to it ,compared to a weight forward, due to the fact a WF has a kind of length/sweet spot where you have to keep in the air in order to shoot line and if you go past it the line/ loops collapse on you , where a DT doesn't but in a way harder to cast . Could you advise what the main uses of both line are ie WF or DT , i apologise for being thick , i always use a WF because i fish in tightish areas and find them easier to roll cast , is it me doing it wrong and should i try a DT. All the best , David.
@@davidhaddon2854 here I’m using the SA Mastery Expert Distance 5WT with a 68’ head. I do use DTs. On my HT4 I use a SA DT4. www.sexyloops.com/articles/wfvsdt.shtml#:~:text=Good%20consistent%20loops%20and%20practice,be%20in%20the%20rod%20tip.
Love it as usual Paul, I’ve learned a ton from you as a new fly angler. Would you mind letting me know what line model and weight you are using in this video? I like the orange color for training, makes it easier to see my loops in the air. Thanks again!
Thanks Gaither. That line is a Scientific Anglers Mastery Expert Distance. I usually use a 5WT in these videos. Some of the earlier videos was a MED6. This the line that Bruce and I talked about in the previous in the previous. Cheers!
7:50 Lets talk about the important things. Did you catch that fish? 😂
Just a tiddler!
I am very big built, muscle wise. How can I fix tailing loops? It's driving me crazy
Hi Richard, tailing loops are caused when the rod tip path buckles and puts a wave in the fly leg. There are a few possible causes www.sexyloops.com/flycast/tailing-loops/ First I’d check the tackle. Soft rod tip, heavy line and a short leader makes life harder to avoid. It’s unlikely this is the problem. It’s more likely either anticipating the next cast and/or an abrupt/non-smooth casting stroke. I’ll add some drills to play with. Be sure to train them all short to long line lengths!
www.sexyloops.com/flycast/the-triangle-method/
www.sexyloops.com/flycast/casting-drill-1st-gear/
ruclips.net/video/jasqKVAZFQk/видео.htmlfeature=shared
ruclips.net/video/1sL8Sfe68Pg/видео.htmlfeature=shared sorry I couldn’t add them in one post because when I search for them RUclips loses my reply 😆
In essence I would have you rebuild your stroke being smooth starting with a short line building to a longer carry. It will take some time but the result won’t just be the elimination of tails but more loop control etc.
Tails can be very frustrating. Another method we use to remove them is to learn to control tails by intentionally casting them. But now there is too much information 😎 Do practise loop control with a very short line (6’ of flyline) and build from there! Cheers
@@SexyloopsTV Sounds to me like you might be shocking (overpowering) the rod. Remember that fly casting is not about strength. Some of the best flycasters are ladies. No one can address YOUR particular problems until they see you cast. Most casting problems can be fixed by improved timing, fixing the breaks in your stroke, ie. elbows and wrists, fixing stop/start points, AND STOP trying to force it. I will assume you have already made sure that your line and rod are matched and of sufficient quality. (quality doesn't mean expensive, necessarily)
Actually, I did get more from this one, so thanks for redoing it! Time to revisit all your stuff. Cheers from Oz. PP
Great!! 😊 I have some more things to add to it - longer casts and so on - but it’s one of my favourite drills.
@@SexyloopsTV Ha! I was pushing how far I could pick up and put down practising yesterday. Didn't even injure myself. Be keen to see how to do it properly. Great stuff, really appreciate you sharing. 🙂 PP
@@mrpoopypants9586 yep I really want to get this idea across that we are moving momentum from the body to the hand towards the end of the stroke. This makes casting so much easier. We still have to stop the hand too sometimes of course. I think about stopping body parts from moving and the one that I focus on the most is the forearm block. That AND targets, particularly positioning and ringing that backcast bell, will transform the backcast. It’s very common for anglers to totally forget about the backcast target when a fish appears… disaster!! 😆 It has to be ingrained that there always two targets.