I just bought one of these and the instructions were not clear on cleaning the needle so thank you. A tip a friend just gave me was to pull the needle out from the front so as no to draw paint back into the body of the brush.
seems like when I flush mine thru the back of the airbrush I end up with water in the water trap on the airbrush and into the air hose....I know this because I can see the water in the trap and after I am done cleaning and put it back together, after I put paint in it and start painting again after a few minutes I start getting spurts of water out of the airbrush, even with just air on and paint off....I will hold the trigger down for just air and shake the airbrush and I get more spurts of water....somehow it gets into my air hose I believe when I flush it from the rear.
I have been flushing through the back since I started airbrushing and never had that issue ? Check your seals in your plunger assembly as they may be worn allowing water to get into that area and therefore enter into your hose ? Hope that helps.
Thank you! I have a similar side-feed grex brush, that I rarely use anymore, as it takes twice as long to clean. I didn’t find the side-feed “visibility” argument worth the extra cleaning hassle/time😎
@@AirbrushAsylum lol. My bad. What im trying to say is i think this method of cleaning will only works on acrylic. Never tried tho. I should give it a shot.
Great deal Carson! Did you make a video on the short trigger. Another artist said although it's a great idea. It limits his artistic ability. The trigger sort of feels weird passed halfway. What are your thoughts on the lowrider trigger. Do you think the new cup although bigger, atomizes better being more at the bottom? Thanks if you are going to do a full review on the takumi micron, you can restraint from answering 😀 cheers mate. Great review!
No probs glad you enjoyed it, even though I enjoy the short trigger, personally I prefer the old style 'taller trigger' with the rounded head (1st micron versions). Haven't noticed much difference with the cup as yet, but still need to use this brush more to wear it in. Thanks again hope that helps 🙌
Cheers From Toronto CANADA, First off I love watching your vids. i just got back into airbrushing(after 15 years and still an amateur). I have a siphon feed badger 150 (its ok for rc bodies using Proline RC Paints) and i can not paint with the air cap removed. The design of the badger wont expel paint. I am using Golden High Flow Acrylic reduced to 70/30 @18-20 psi and i get tip drying within 15min of using the airbrush.( Yes i have watch you explain the correct way to use an airbrush). So now i am investing in an Iwata Eclipse HP-CS. I do have a question tho.. Zinc white or Titanium white which one will tip dry faster?
Thanks for your comment, firstly the badger from memory may be able to be fitted with a 'paint picker cap' which then allows you to use that rather than your air cap and allows for a similar 'no air cap' experience. In regards to the white's, I personally haven't used zinc white, so I can't accurately comment but from my experience all white's are fairly painful to use. It really comes down to a trade off either you over thin them and you risk it spidering and you have to do numerous coats, or you get really good coverage but extreme tip drying. My preference is to over thin white as I prefer having to coat it more often and have less tip drying...hope that helps 👍
it's so sketchy pushing the needle in from the back... especially on cheaper brushes when it gets near the trigger assembly you'll feel a lot of resistance as it passes thru the trigger piece. i did it the other night for the first time ever and was surprised at the actual amount of friction the needle encounters. definitely be careful!!!
Thanks for your comment and yes, being careful is a must as you can also easily damage the front of your needle. In regards to the friction you are feeling, you may need to re-adjust your needle packing if it feels really tight, what I usually do is completely tighten it and then do a quarter turn anti clockwise and that seems to be a good sweet spot. 👍
His is bs . I always disassemble from the front. I never pull the needle out the back that pulls paint in the packing gland and air valve. Not everyone is limited to acrylic paint. This would be a lacquer disaster. Lastly I backflush to clean the needle and nozzles. It cleans 80 to 90%. I always use dental and airbrush specific long brushes to clean the a b. I finish with shooting cleaner through the brush at 30+psi. I use acetone to blow out when using enamels or lacquers.
thanks for sharing your cleaning tips, I personally have never had any issues even when I used to only use urethanes for 10+ years (as waterbased paints back when I started were not as good as they are now). Flushing through the back has always been part of my daily cleaning and I continue to do so to this day.
Hello, please tell me, do you use needles to clean the nozzle on this Iwata model? I saw a video where people recommended using a nozzle cleaning needle, I’m very interested in what needs to be used to clean the 0.18 nozzle on Takumi.
💥 Check out the Unboxing Video : ruclips.net/video/7obEHQqihNI/видео.html
I just bought one of these and the instructions were not clear on cleaning the needle so thank you. A tip a friend just gave me was to pull the needle out from the front so as no to draw paint back into the body of the brush.
I use your back flush method all the time, you mentioned it in another video and its a game changer. Nice one :)
Great to hear! I have been using it ever since I started airbrushing in 97 and its always worked for me 👍
Cheers. Good tips
thank you 🙏🏻
Thank you for this! Just what i needed to know right now. :)
You're so welcome! glad it was helpful
Grazie.....ottimo lavoro
no probs thank you
Thank you very much for your videos Carson. Please, in your opinion which Micron is it better? Takumi or SB2? is Takumi worth it? Thank you
seems like when I flush mine thru the back of the airbrush I end up with water in the water trap on the airbrush and into the air hose....I know this because I can see the water in the trap and after I am done cleaning and put it back together, after I put paint in it and start painting again after a few minutes I start getting spurts of water out of the airbrush, even with just air on and paint off....I will hold the trigger down for just air and shake the airbrush and I get more spurts of water....somehow it gets into my air hose I believe when I flush it from the rear.
I have been flushing through the back since I started airbrushing and never had that issue ? Check your seals in your plunger assembly as they may be worn allowing water to get into that area and therefore enter into your hose ? Hope that helps.
Thank you!
I have a similar side-feed grex brush, that I rarely use anymore, as it takes twice as long to clean. I didn’t find the side-feed “visibility” argument worth the extra cleaning hassle/time😎
Same. And i dont think this method of cleaning is only good for water or acrylic paint.
No probs glad you enjoyed it, fair enough re : cleaning I don't think I enjoy cleaning any airbrushes lol.
@@AirbrushAsylum lol. My bad. What im trying to say is
i think this method of cleaning will only works on acrylic. Never tried tho. I should give it a shot.
👌
Can you spray up with this model? Like painting a ceiling or something. Tilt the cup if need be.
Great deal Carson! Did you make a video on the short trigger. Another artist
said although it's a great idea. It limits his artistic ability. The trigger sort of feels weird passed halfway. What are your thoughts on the lowrider trigger. Do you think the new cup although bigger, atomizes better being more at the bottom? Thanks if you are going to do a full review on the takumi micron, you can restraint from answering 😀 cheers mate. Great review!
No probs glad you enjoyed it, even though I enjoy the short trigger, personally I prefer the old style 'taller trigger' with the rounded head (1st micron versions). Haven't noticed much difference with the cup as yet, but still need to use this brush more to wear it in. Thanks again hope that helps 🙌
Cheers From Toronto CANADA, First off I love watching your vids. i just got back into airbrushing(after 15 years and still an amateur). I have a siphon feed badger 150 (its ok for rc bodies using Proline RC Paints) and i can not paint with the air cap removed. The design of the badger wont expel paint. I am using Golden High Flow Acrylic reduced to 70/30 @18-20 psi and i get tip drying within 15min of using the airbrush.( Yes i have watch you explain the correct way to use an airbrush). So now i am investing in an Iwata Eclipse HP-CS.
I do have a question tho.. Zinc white or Titanium white which one will tip dry faster?
Thanks for your comment, firstly the badger from memory may be able to be fitted with a 'paint picker cap' which then allows you to use that rather than your air cap and allows for a similar 'no air cap' experience. In regards to the white's, I personally haven't used zinc white, so I can't accurately comment but from my experience all white's are fairly painful to use. It really comes down to a trade off either you over thin them and you risk it spidering and you have to do numerous coats, or you get really good coverage but extreme tip drying. My preference is to over thin white as I prefer having to coat it more often and have less tip drying...hope that helps 👍
Hello my Airbus ha master. I lo ve airbrushed Nails. Which aurbrush you recomend me? Thanks
I'd go with a Badger Sotar 20/20
Gsi PS.771 it has a 0.18mm, Iwata micron B or the takumi (0.18mm) Sotar 20/20 is also a great option. Hope that helps
great suggestion love the sotars 🤘
it's so sketchy pushing the needle in from the back... especially on cheaper brushes when it gets near the trigger assembly you'll feel a lot of resistance as it passes thru the trigger piece. i did it the other night for the first time ever and was surprised at the actual amount of friction the needle encounters. definitely be careful!!!
Thanks for your comment and yes, being careful is a must as you can also easily damage the front of your needle. In regards to the friction you are feeling, you may need to re-adjust your needle packing if it feels really tight, what I usually do is completely tighten it and then do a quarter turn anti clockwise and that seems to be a good sweet spot. 👍
@@AirbrushAsylum oh! right on, i didn't even know you could adjust that! sweet! lol
His is bs . I always disassemble from the front. I never pull the needle out the back that pulls paint in the packing gland and air valve. Not everyone is limited to acrylic paint. This would be a lacquer disaster. Lastly I backflush to clean the needle and nozzles. It cleans 80 to 90%. I always use dental and airbrush specific long brushes to clean the a b. I finish with shooting cleaner through the brush at 30+psi. I use acetone to blow out when using enamels or lacquers.
thanks for sharing your cleaning tips, I personally have never had any issues even when I used to only use urethanes for 10+ years (as waterbased paints back when I started were not as good as they are now). Flushing through the back has always been part of my daily cleaning and I continue to do so to this day.
Какое количество ЛИШНИХ, УСЛОЖНЯЮЩИХ процесс чистки манипуляций...
Hello, please tell me, do you use needles to clean the nozzle on this Iwata model? I saw a video where people recommended using a nozzle cleaning needle, I’m very interested in what needs to be used to clean the 0.18 nozzle on Takumi.