Repairing "The Cheapest Excavator I Could Find" How Bad could it be??
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- Опубликовано: 11 май 2022
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I realize there are tons of people making videos that cover similar topics and such, but for some reason I enjoy watching yours better than most anyone else. Something about how you make your videos that are always interesting to me. Watch Wes Work's videos are right there with yours as well. I could watch you two all day long... Thumbs Up!
I’ve thought the same thing!
It's his honesty, sharing his job with us.
Short of being free, this Kobelco was still one of the biggest bargain deals I have ever seen. You practically stole it for that price! As a huge bargain hunter, I am extremely jealous of that deal. And it is not some junkpile, either. It works. It digs. It does it all. And it's a 250-class! Perfect size. So feeding it expensive oil and TLC and some parts is still worth it. And then some. This machine has already paid off a lot of itself just doing the borrow pit. In my area, Kobelcos are the machine of choice for heavy demo. Not new machines. Older ones. They don't need new when these things take a beating and run forever.
Second hand stuff is expensive in the US, in the Netherlands you can buy machines like this (fully functioning and in good condition) for about 15.000 to 20.000
Yeah this is a smokin deal. I couldn't believe my ears when he said he got a 56000 pound machine that runs and operates for 16k
@@Nick-fw5uj hi nick il like to buy some . I'm based in Ireland.
@@brianmoylan3442 I guess you have to look on some Dutch / European websites
It never ceases to amaze me how much an exhaust leak can sound like a rod knock. I've seen vehicles and equipment scrapped because the "engine is shot", just to be fixed by a few gaskets, a manifold, or sometimes even just a piece of exhaust pipe!
Yes exactly, and at the same time the engine in my dragline has several large cracks in it but it runs perfectly smooth and doesn’t sound like it has any leaks at all🤷🏼♂️🤣
Lol... true. Never assume a engine is shot until all other possibilities are exhausted.
Lppl😊❤
W❤
fully qualified diesel mechanic for 35 years and you should always run the engine first before draining old oil unless engine is compromised and what you said is CORRECT. nice video.
Is that Mitsubishi engine the same as Dodge used back before they used Cummins?
Proper way of doing an oil change is you freeze the block with liquid nitrogen, once done chipping the oil out, use the impact to properly set torque on the drain plug, go until it loosens then a quarter turn more. Make sure to use red loctite as well for best sealing!
...but seriously your way is the correct way, you get way more sludge out.
🤣
Dont forget the hilljack method. open all the plugs on the freeway and motor on down the rd .
Hot mo' bettah!
Damn, I thought it was tighten till it strips and then back off a quarter turn. I've been doing it wrong forever!
After freezing with liquid nitrogen just remove the oil pan with all the oil in it. I freeze it so I dont spill any on my new latex gloves. This way I dont have to mess with those pesky drain plugs.
I always love how he's not afraid to tackle any project.
Dad taught me a lot about working on engines. When he said change the oil hot, you better do it. All of my formal training was the same way. I've been turning wrenches close to 50 years. I still change oil hot.
It's fine to do it hot, but not the moment you shut it off. give it a few minutes to all migrate down into the pan as much as possible. you never get it all, but you want most. that's one advantage of doing it cold in the morning, you know almost all of it is sitting right on top of the drain plug, it had all night to seep down there and settle. as long as it gets changed frequently.. surely dad told you about how Marvel Mystery Oil is high in detergent and cleans out lifters and oil galleys.
My experience is NEVER WELD cast iron. Clean, gouge with grinder and then set up on fixing plate to braze. Cool overtime and face off as necessary, not had a failure in fifty years and my Chrysler 72 is still running after 52 years! Great work!
Roger's 100% right here, always braze CI unless you're an actual CI pro and you've got hundreds of hours dicking around with Ni-Rod, otherwise ye be wasting your time. Brazed is best.
Cast iron can be welded. But with preheat and with electrode for this purpose. And don't foreg to swich ground and stick in circuit.
Not all cast iron is created equal... Some can be welded if you know what you're doing very successfully and some not much at all.
As all of those nuts on the exhaust manifold squeaked loose I almost shouted because , having taken many a manifold free from the engine , it has been my lot to break at least two bolts in getting each one off . You were so fortunate to only have one rounded nut to deal with . Bravo !
Same here! He needs to go buy a lottery ticket. Lady Luck was smiling on him.
Watching someone remove exhaust manifold hardware is equal parts exciting and terrifying. We've all been there, so we celebrate when they don't break and we're crestfallen when they snap.
Hehe, he must be living right 👍
@@stromxtc2033 THE GODS AND PB BLASTER GODS ARE WITH HIM
This rig brings back memories. I used to work for a Kobelco dealer. I actually worked maintenance on their forklift division but was occasionally called upon to service these beasts. One thing I could never understand was why the Mitsubishi diesels in those things had a 20qt system with such a tiny oil filter. The ones that had the Cummins diesel usually had about 16qts and a much bigger oil filter. Go figure.
That sounds like a perfect application for one of those remote filter kits, which put the filters in a more convenient place to change it, too. Does anyone make one for the Mitsu diesel engine?
@@ljprep6250 I don't know. It was more than 20 years ago that I worked around those rigs. I only got to do the oil change service on that one Kobelco with that particular engine in it. The rest of that company's track hoes were older and had Cummins diesel in them.
She really sounds great after replacing that manifold. I think warm or hot is the only way to change fluids. Can wait for the pressure washer 👍
Whoever told you cold oil changes are good must have been huffing silly sauce, you *definitely* want to drain anything with oil as hot as you possibly can. This machine sounds great dude, what a steal at 16k. Looking forward to seeing more from this beaut.
Replacing Capex with Sweatex ! i.e. having to fix it !
Bought better for much less!!
@@mikesecondo2254 Okay thanks mike, verycool.jpg
@@mikesecondo2254 liar
I was raised with warming the engine before changing the oil and I come from a long line of mechanics. That is how I do it, but at the end of the day, if you change the oil like you should, it should not matter. People like to get upset about anything and think they know it all.
Love your content. You do a great job and I have a friend who looks like your twin so I have fun with that with him. Is there any more content coming about the church to apartment building renovation?
My comment wasn't me being upset. It was a curiosity to see if others believed the same.
I was raised with warming a car up before you set off too.
But I put 300,000km on a cheap Mitsubishi and half the time the engine hadn't even finished starting up before I set off so that obviously wasn't good advice.
In regards to oil changes, my dad taught me 50 some years ago, that you always warm up the engine first.
That gets all the oil and sediment stirred up and it will more completely drain out. Sure, you have to be a little careful that you don't get things to hot, just warm.
I really like your common sense and honest approach to working on stuff.
A great tip to anyone doing maintenance on their own vehicle for the first time or anytime. Always make sure the old rubber seal comes off with the old oil filter. You don't want to double seal it. It will blow out
Same applies to diesel filters. Just helped a friend with his Dodge 5.9 after a shop changed the fuel filter. Fuel sprayed out...double-sealed.
That sounds oh so sweet after the new exhaust manifold. Going to be a good machine for you young man. Thanks for the ride along. Warm the engine oil before draining the oil. Been doing it for years and have yet to have engine problems caused by oil issues.
No broken bolts on the exhaust manifold is a huge win. I always heard you need to torque those nuts to a certain spec, then run the motor to heat it up, shut down, let it cool and retorque to a final spec. But you should be fine.👍
100 %, start with lite torque, heat & expand, then final torque. Not many do this, slap it on and get it out the door! Next!
@@lotharschiese8559 Head gaskets the same way. Retorque is very important.
Also use antiseize on it
@@cumminssmoker2456 I would!
Cordless angle grinders, can't beat them 😊 On the subject of oil chages? Yes, warm the engine always in my book. The oil drains more quickly and fully. Great video once again Matt.
I was trained to always do oil hot, nit only because it loosens up sludge and flows faster, it also allows for better containment of any sediments captured in the oil. Love the videos Matt, love how you do jobs the way a normal owner operator would handle it.
I've always understood that it is preferable to change the engine oil when it is warm/hot. It certainly flows better in my opinion. That Kobelco is a good machine. It should work for you for a long time as you give it some TLC and keep up with the other general maintenance. I'm looking forward to seeing what she looks like after a good steam cleaning! It won't be long now until we see the new shop going up! Good times. 🙂
Definitely get that engine warm/hot before draining.
I'm sure he was replying to my comment of: "I now don't understand warming the oil up before changing it. I used to do it this way but here me out: Most people do it to allow more oil to drain out which does not make sense. 90% chance the last time the engine was parked it was hot. This means during that period all the hot oil drained back to the pan and once cooled continued to drain. Starting it immediately before draining just takes the oil and sends it to the top end and all over the internals. You actually get less out this way. The speed difference is really negligible at reasonable outdoor temperature if this is the other reason someone wants it warm."
Thoughts?
@@nateglen9358 The reason for changing the oil hot, is that the crap/sludge/particles is held in suspension within the oil. thus flushing it out of the engine.. 👍🍺
@@bigtrev8xl The crap and sludge will most likely be more dense than the oil. This means it's already at the bottom of the pan and closest to the plug. Starting it just takes that crap and pushes some of it well everywhere but the bottom of the pan.
@@nateglen9358 Well, that's your theory, but virtually everyone else, has the opposite theory..
I've always changed the oil when it's warmed up. Drains quicker and more thorough.
They don't encourage people to do it that way because an inexperienced novice around engines is likely to get burnt from the engine or the oil and the burns can be serious.
Yeah I was always taught the same thing, drain when its warmed up.
Tell me about it, as a forklift mechanic I've got burnt a few times draining the oil on an unfamiliar engine and half way through you realise the drain pan just can't quite hold enough 😂. Playing 'hot potato' with the drain plug.
Not to mention those cars where you need to reach around the exhaust to get the filter on the top backside of the engine (looking at YOU Mazda) and you get singed by the cat.
Don't want a McDonalds coffee incident...
When I changed oil I made sure the engine is hot so every ounce would drain out.
Looking forward to seeing the next video on this excavator.
“Im done playing around” best line ever
Absolutely run the engine before draining the oil. Not only for speed, because hot oil runs faster, but also for quality. Modern synthetic oils are made to suspend particles (unlike the old stuff, that had particles settle out to the bottom), so it can get to the oil filters. Anything that doesn't get filtered will be suspended in the oil if the engine has been running, so it comes out with an oil change. If you don't run the engine before an oil change, depending on how long it has been sitting, those particles can have settle to the bottom, so you'd drain the oil, but leave the crap in the system.
It won't be much, since most junk gets filtered out in the oil filters, but it's still a thing to keep in mind.
Agreed!
yep get it moving before a oil change. anything that was in the oil will drain out. or will be in the filter.. thats why they have a filter. lol. old sludge drains better in a warm engine..
@Jim jibroni Lol. What do you think happens when you shut off an engine. That hot oil magically stays everywhere? Only when you undo the drain plug that oil actually starts dripping down?
If you drain a cold engine, everything above the oil level line will be just as "dry" as it would be when you drain a hot engine. You know why? Because that cold engine was hot once, and when it was shut off, all the hot oil already ran down, just like it does when you drain a hot engine. It's like magic!
If anything, a hot engine has more oil left in it, because a cold engine once was a hot engine, only in a cold engine the oil has had a lot of extra time to drip down.
@Jim jibroni I don't think this makes much sense. After running a car for example, the oil is hot and sinks to the bottom of the oil pan. During an oil change, the only thing that you are doing is draining this oil pan, and filling it again with fresh oil. The oil that goes up top is coming from the oil filter, and that is the reason why you always also fill up the new oil filter with oil. And even besides all of this, engine oil won't dilute that easily even when hot. Your parts will always be in a light coat of oil. In a good working engine, oil pressure builds up instantly and dry time running is almost non-existent. So I would absolutely agree with running the engine before draining.
@Jim jibroni What happens when you shut it off hot and restart it without an oil change? About exactly the same I’d say.
I've always changed the oil after getting the engine up to operating temp, then changed it. That's the way we do it in aircraft engines, and that's what the engine mfg says to do!!!! Everyone else I know does it that way to, so...... I think (I'm sure) you're doing it correct Matt.
The only time I would disagree with him is when someone uses a torch to help it along.
However, all mechanics that I've ever dealt with, my own father, and myself, we've always changed the oil while it was warm. This makes it easier for oil to flow as cold oil is thick.
I am quite sure that the one who mentioned that he was doing it wrong is someone who was either taught wrong, or came to their own conclusions, with faulty logic.
Exactly (former RAF propulsion tech here).
Former Marine Corp motor transport diesel mechanic and civilian ASE mechanic and now small engine hobby mechanic! ( mostly fixing my sons go kart and everyone I knows equipment )Your are correct in how your doing it! No matter what size the engine from chainsaw to heavy equipment warm the engine up b4 changing the oil! And if it’s an old machine that’s been neglected put a little kerosene, diesel, transmission fluid or marvel mystery in the oil b4 you warm it up to desludge it or just remove any varnishing. Which one you use depends on preference, I’ve heard of many farm remedies to clean oil passages inside of engine !
@@kenwillis8487 you can add stuff like that to help clean the motor up, however don't run it long with stuff like that in it. J
Kerosene really thins oil out especially and can hurt your motor if running in it too long. Oil pump won't build much pressure usually with really thin stuff. I know most people usually just do it as a heat cycle to clean tho but just something to think about
@@GARDENER42 Sooty???? Lol
Thank you for the video. Nice to see someone who does the job properly. I was always told to heat the engin up befor an oil change, my father was a mechanic for may years.
Matt you have a great job making your equipment better, and being ready to Use it! I have been watching since the beginning of your channel and always like how you show the mistakes you make, keeping it real! Thanks for all you do, and God Bless🙏👍
I’ve been a field service mechanic for 10+ years now and I’ve always changed the oil when hot. It helps get all the oil out and the sludge and dirt will be suspended in the oil better.
Matt. I was in the job for over 50 years and in that time I have no idea how many service manuals I've read. One thing I know for sure is, every one of them said run the engine to normal working temperature before draining the oil. I've even seen manuals that told you to drive a vehicle on the road before changing gearbox or differential oil.
Change Oil when Cold? I've never heard anything so dumb.
Yes HOT oil drains better.
Warming up the engine to change the oil is how I was taught when I worked with diesel fitters here in the UK was told it not only drained better and quicker but softened any sludge and made it drain out rather than it sitting in the engine and clogging everything up. Matt you done it the right way keep up with the great video's
I always warm up the engine before an oil change. Unless I'm concerned about the condition of the oil. Happy to hear the Rocket Sockets work well. I recently received the same kit as a gift. Nice job Matt! 👍😁
That was rewarding to hear the difference in that engine after installing the new manifold. Cool
Matt I’ve been heavy equipment tech for 52 years and have always changed oil after warming the machine up. The trade school instructor told us to do so, plus my father in law ( 61 years as a mechanic) done his oil changes the same way. Any debris that is laying in the gallery’s would flow along easier in hot oil . Enjoy watching your videos very much, stay positive, test negative.
Great to see some engine work Matt! Really enjoyed the manifold change-out and doesn’t she sound good now!
Love seeing all the time you are putting into the SK 250, looks like a labor of love to me. Thanks for sharing Matt.
i started to watch your channel about 2 years ago, and enjoyed it ever since 👍🏻 Love maintainance and repair videos, and im looking forward to se more of the workshop build too. I like the videos exactly how the are 👌🏻
BETTER YET IS REHABBING THESE OLD HULKS AND GETTING 20 MORE YRS OUT OF THEM ................WAY TO GO DC
+1
Same
Me too, pretty much 2 years ago. I'd love to get into things like this but can't after breaking my neck 25 years ago. Keep the videos coming, great job
You could dig yourself a big hole with a machine that size Matt , in more ways than one 😲🍻
@@DMAX-tp4pc 👍yeah, generally good machines but the company I worked for bought one with low hours not realising 99% of those hours was used with a rock breaker . One by one the hydraulic rams went and became a money pit to fix . Matt did well with this one touchwood 🤞🍻
@@drunkdunc8738 It’s like anything second hand with no history ,it’s always a gamble what you end up with. If your lucky enough to come across one that’s been a owner operator machine it’s more likely to be looked after ,we tend to look after the things we have to pay for ,Cheers.
@@raeanker3078 exactly, there’s no passing the buck for not regularly greasing etc with owner operators, good chance to get a few extras thrown in like parts and attachments too👍 🍻
A dirty hoe is just the ticket, if a big hole is what you're looking for.
Never fails Matt you do a great job I love to watch your videos very educational keep up the good work
I had the same engine in my boat with the same problem as you. I had to replace all of the manifold studs and nuts. Mine was no turbocharged. Watching this video brought back memories.
You forgot your best friend when repairing exhaust components, Mr. Anti-seize Compound.
Happy to hear you used the original Diesel Creek Theme Song in the intro!
He pays you less royalties for the older stuff Vinnie 😝🍻
@@drunkdunc8738 haha i think it's more like fine wine-- more expensive with age 😂😂😂
Absolutely, hot is best. I was always told that during my apprenticeship in a multi dealership (several makes of cars up to full size trucks), and the advice was always run to hot, then drain.
Awesome shoutout to Project Farm Matt. That guy puts so much effort into each video. It's a great channel.
good work matt! Can't believe those exhaust bolts did not break , I've done so many that have! Even doing all the tricks to make them not break! At least one breaks on me just to test me ... I like new bolts on an engine like that , they have been so stressed from heat , and I always use anti sieze going back on! Makes life easier down the road , for sure
On a different note. When cutting metal with a torch, you can use a high graphite pencil. Mark (strike} the area you want to cut on a line with the pencil. The graphite will focus the heat in that area. While working for the government I discovered damage caused by a pencil. Some green horn (fresh out of TS) signed their name in a afterburner ring. Burned through perfect and matched the signature on the prior work order signoff...
Wow that’s crazy!
Changing the oil hot! I agree with your reasoning the same that the thick gunk comes out only when it’s hot too. Especially on equipment that has not been maintained for a very long time. Great Video Matt!
Super excited to see you using Shell Rotella oil. I always change oil with it hot but not too hot that it burns. Basically run the engine until it is up to temperature then let it cool down a little bit so you don’t burn yourself taking plug out.
The terrarium you had started was cute. It’s a good idea to steam clean your equipment before you put it up. Now I will always remember to do it; unless I want my own terrarium. LOL Thanks for sharing that bit of footage.
“Tighten down ‘til they holler” 😀🤣👍 That’s a “Green Machine”, Matt! 👌😂
100% always heat the engine before charging the oil, also I personally do a standard oil change after purchasing a vehicle so I can check for any contamination but for the second service I put a pint of diesel mixed with synthetic 2stroke oil (50/50) into the engine and run it for a few hours this will clean the inside of the engine and also helps clear the internal oil pipes and ports, then inspect the oil and filters for any contamination again
Would love to see video of this.
I add a qt of ATF before a change . When they got low add then drain after a hundred miles or so
Absolutely heat the engine first! Not sure about the diesel/2 stroke oil mix.
@@Watchyn_Yarwood both the diesel and the 2 stroke oil have detergent in them it works with just diesel but I add the 2 stroke for extra lubrication just to be on the safe side
Makes a lot more sense draining hot oil , oil comes out a lot better ,and as you said loosens up any build up of sludge
WE ARE IN AGREEMENT BROTHER!!! OPINIONS BY PEOPLE WHO DO NOT HAVE EXPERIENCE...UH HUH!!! AND I ALWAYS LET THAT DRAIN FOR SEVERAL HOURS...LET IT DRIP...I EVEN FIRED ONE UP FOR 3 SECONDS TO GET THE PUMP CLEARED...LET IT DRIP...ALSO TREATED ENGINE WITH A SYNTHETIC TO PROTECT IT...RUNS SO SMOOTHER...THE RXR USES AN ADDITIVE...I FORGET WHAT ITS CALLED NOW...BUT STUFF IS FORMOST IN ENGINE LIFE...GOOD JOB ERIC...(& HIND SITE IS ALWAYS 20/20...🙋👍🇺🇲💪)
And whoever was arguing that you shouldn't, I'd like to point out the obvious. If you weren't supposed to change the oil when hot, then oil change places wouldn't be able to do their job.
On bigger diesels and on big gearboxes/transfercases I usually flush out the oil pan with some diesel after all the oil is out so the pan gets really clean before any new oil is added.
I’ve always change oil with hot engine, and better yet, i leave to do this at the end of the day and let the drain plug open overnight. In the morning just add oil and back to work!!!
@@drmarcondes3602 don’t forget to add oil 😂
Trees growing out of it... must be a very environmentally friendly machine! 👏🏽👍🏼☺️
It’s carbon neutral! Lol
These videos are getting better and better! Keep up the good work Matt!
Always warm up the engine. Most manufacturers I have had dealings with recommend it and it only makes sense as the heat and the circulating pump will put a lot of the solids back in suspension that are laying on the bottom of the pan. You only have to pull the pan on a couple of high hour engines cold as opposed to pulling them hot and you will see the evidence in the bottom of the pan. So I agree with you for sure.
Those “Grrrrrr’ssss!!!!” We’re priceless, but when you applied the shaking fist, it was epic! The small things Matt, the small things have the biggest impact. Lol
Hi Matt - greetings from Scotland !! Great channel, been watching for ages, but just figured out how to post comments !! Aged 81 will do that to you !! Look forward to the shop build - Cheers !! 😀
Matt, you are exactly correct to heat up the engine/oil before draining. Great show!
Hell yeah. Been looking forward to another video from my favourite creek!
Good stuff Matt!
Glad to see another episode Matt. Thanks for bringing us along.
Try changing the oil on an EMD 1956 built GP7 which has a V-16 567 engine. Took just over an hour to drain then two days to clean all the sludge out of the crankcase. Engine hadn’t had an oil change in over 12 years. In service the whole time. It ran much better with fresh 50 weight motor oil and after going back into service smoked a lot less too. It had new short line owners and they were able to buy it cheap because it died and wouldn’t stay running. 3 days after an oil service which included new oil filters that were almost solidly plugged up we changed the oil again and it looked almost as bad as the first oil change by the new company. This was in 1982 and it continued in service for 26 more years only requiring regular scheduled maintenance. First time they tried to start it it barely reached 7 pounds of oil pressure. They were going to scrap it until I convinced them to change the oil filters. They had never seen an engine so under-maintained. Turned out to be a good locomotive once it started receiving regular maintenance. After changing the filters it showed 53 pounds of oil pressure.
I love the old GP7.
Food for thought
One of the but things about watching your videos is that you don’t cuss and stare like a bloody sailor. That is so refreshing.
Hey Matt,
It’s unbelievable to see and hear how the Kobelco engine is running after you repaired the exhaust manifold of the engine and after you’ve given the engine the basic service including new filters and oil. We think that this machine can last for years with regular maintenance. We wish you lots of success with your to be build dream shop and wish you and your whole family family all the happiness of the world plus we send you ❤️ from the Netherlands.
Best regards,
Willeke and Dick de Graaff
I was taught, years ago, that it's better to change the oil when it's up to operating temp. Besides getting rid of more impurities it also drains out faster. Faster=more completely.
Nice find on the Kobelco. One thing to look out for is maintenance on the final drives. Change that oil often and make sure you use what they recommend, I've seen many Kobelcos with a dead final drive due to neglect or improper fliuds.
I really enjoy all your content, Matt. Your can-do DIY attitude is admirable and your no nonsense videos make me believe that an old fart like me could do the same. PS. I also enjoy the bumper music. Vinnie and The Semi-Supervillains genuinely compliment the dirt-moving attitude of your channel. Kudos to them!
Always better to drain the oil completely when hot. Cold or warm oil is stiff, and sticks to surfaces with dirt suspended. If unsure about age of oil, drain first and run a lite engine flush. Drain hot! Check for metal In oil. If accessible, pull the pan. Clean the pan and reinstall. You will know for sure of the condition of engine when examining sludge.
Yes, warm up the engine first.
I have always wondered, how come there's not a valve on the drain for the engine oil, as long as it's not in a place where I can get damaged or broken off.
If there's a possibility of the valve accidentally getting open you can always put a plug on the valve so it has double protection.
Then when it's time to change the oil, just take the plug out and then open the valve and it makes a lot less mess.
A lot of static engines have what you are describing, usually generators and the like but I have seen it on some small rollers.
There’s a few companies that make them. I have one on my truck. It’s called an ez drain. Just find out the drain plug threads and pitch and order the valve
I’m a heavy equipment mechanic for a demolition company this machine looks great!
Too bad you didn't use "Anti-Seize" on those exhaust manifold nuts. Sure would have made disassembly easier if you ever had to.
Absolutely use anti-seize paste on any engine bolts, especially those exposed to weather and heat cycles.
Umm.... Anti sleeze will cook off at the EGTs this thing will reach.
Copper plated exhaust nuts are pretty common on Japanese turbo vehicles.
They can't seize and it won't cook or corrode off.
Have always been a fan of changing the oil on warm engine, besides when it runs down my arm. I also will add seafoam and let it run several minutes, let it sit a while to do it's thing thing, warm up and drain just to loosen up any built up gunk when it's a new-to-me vehicle of any type.
Seafoam is keroseme with a jigger of acetone to the quart.
If buy sea foam I will sell a can of cooking oil and you that it was a miracle in a can!!!!
@@tedc7714 when i looked recently its listed as Pale oil (so yeah basically kerosene), Naphtha (just assorted crude oil based hydrocarbons) and Isopropyl alcohol
So yeah it's nothing real special but it's definitely more of a solvent than engine oil being that kerosene is an excellent solvent for cleaning dirty engine components in parts washers
Love project farm’s reviews! Very thorough, and unbiased.
I've always changed oil when warm - I agree totally with your thoughts on it. What you don't pay in cash for something, you pay in time and energy making it right. While a big machine may provide a nice work bench, I'd rather have easier access to the engine - why do they design these things as if they never expect them to be taken apart?? It does seem to running well - I hope that continues. The cleaning should be interesting.
When it comes to working on equipment, I'm definitely going the way you do it Matt/Bruce 😂😂😂
Far as heating the oil first...
I was taught at a young age, that you Always should "pre heat" the oil before draining. As you stated Matt, it helps remove more of the bad/old oil and any sludge buildup...those minimizing contamination of the new oil. That said, as you are aware, you will Never get All the old out. But if you can get most of it...and your engine will be in better shape.
Who told you that??
It is a Crazy Statement!!
You Always Change it when it’s cold & for the filter to drain down into the pan!!
@@jkracinginc.4021 clearly you're joking
@@jkracinginc.4021 So if you are suppose to do it cold...What are the advantages? Prove Your Case!
@@Eric-gi9kg cause you don’t get Burned # 1 & I was taught at an early age that you Always Change it cold! I
always let it drip dry before I reinstall the drain plug! It’s Really personal preference! LOL 😀
In my experience, when dealing with cracked or broken exhaust manifolds and any type of welding or repair comes to mind, the first thing you need is someone right there next to you to slap the snot out of you for thinking it.
Why? I've welded many of them and never had trouble. Moreover, since Brian Block experimented with it and demonstrated that you can in fact do it (the famous dropped radial arm drill repair series), I've even repaired two by MIG using plain 70S wire. No preheat, no nothing. No problems after nearly three years. I even repaired a broken Dayton hub that way. No problems. People cannot believe you can repair cast iron with ER70S-(I've used 4 and 6) wire.
🤣🤣 Sounds lust like our shop !
@@robbieburns1664 The fact that you're not preheating leads me to believe you're bullshitting. Either that or doing repairs on things that don't come under any significant load.
@@verteup Well, the fact of your comments leads me to know that you do not actually "listen" to what people tell you. See where I mentioned Brian Block's videos? You can watch it being done. Instead, you are just assuming based upon what you have always thought you knew to be absolutely certain. And do you think a dayton hub on an equipment trailer qualifies as something not under any significant load? Or do you think that I didn't have anything else in the world to do at the time I wrote my original reply above and just decided to bullshit about welding cast iron to fill in that few minutes of my time?
@@robbieburns1664 I'll have to go look for those videos. I have welded a few "cast iron" (not sure if one was actually a steel casting) items with my MIG and it worked. I saw some references a few weeks back about there being lots of different types/grades of cast iron and some are much more weldable than others.
On the flip side, I've had and seen hi carbon steel items (think grader blades) that cracked and failed after being welded.
I always ran the engine warm but was told by a friend who watches "Eric The Car Guy"that you should change it when cold because any sludge will already be settled on the bottom. Confused, I decided to change it warm one time cold the next and so on. 😁
Eric is a bottom dweller, too. Likes company!
As an Amazon delivery driver ur orders always give me a smile lol made in US is what we need more of
Hiya Matt,
Years ago I lived in Peterborough here in the UK, home of Perkins Engines. I knew a few senior design engineers and asked them if I should run the motor and thereby heat the oil. Uniquivicaly a resounding yes! Always heat the oil and coolant before changing was their response. Do it with hydraulic oil too. These are men who designed the engines, they should know. When you were draining the oil I pictured one of your friends on top of the beast pouring in old oil to fool you. Great video, thank you, Steve...
I totally agree with the warm to hot oil theory. I've done it that way for the last 45 years. I'm positive that is help to break down and drain any sludge you might have and in cold waether it certainly help it drain much faster. Good luck with this one it's a beast.
Your correct Matt, when i was an apprentice mechanic, i was told to always drain the engine oil when the engine is hot......😉👍
I'm glad you fixed that manifold, I hated hearing that thing run 🤣 🤣 and woo she whistles now!!!
My dad was a heavy equipment operator (modified Cat HD8) in stationed on the DEW line in Greenland in the 1950s. It was so cold they had to pre-heat the new oil on a stove to get it to pour into the engine, and they had to shut down, drain the old oil, add the new oil, and re-start the engine before it cooled down. If they were too slow, the cold engine wouldn't re-start.
That stuff is super fascinating! I’ve watched a lot about the DEW line and the related!
I always change oil hot, and if possible allow it to drip for an hour or so. Changing it cold is an old safety standard that’s only necessary to follow if your employer requires it.
With those vertically oriented oil filters, I always punch a hole in the bottom and drain them before breaking the seal. Much more pleasant to deal with when the sides aren’t covered in oil.
i have always had the engine hot before draining it.i worked in a agriculture engineers..they all do it that way,for the very reasons you describe.keep up the great content and lov your choice of music!
I like your comments that end with "so that's a good sign." It might be fun to do a collection of video snips of you saying that about all the different things that are good signs.
Most of them are sarcastic lol
Great job there Matt, absolutely right to warm the oil before changing it (Unless the engine is totally *FUBAR* then it's not worth the trouble).It made me smile to see you do the old school "Magic Rub" on the seal when you changed the filter. Let's face it ageing machines are just like ageing people "A little Lube now and then always helps" 😉🤣
Always warm it up when changing oil. When cold the sediment will settle at the bottom of the pan when it's warm it will stir up all the contaminants and be floating in the oil while it's drained out what I always do is after it's drained I will put in a quart or two to flush out any remaining old oil
In WW2, my dad was a RAAF mechanic fitter who FIXED Spitfires and Hurricanes. And then spent the rest of his life in trucking and commercial fishing... and ALWAYS GOT THE OIL HOT during a service. So Matt...you are right !
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Matt, thanks for sharing your tribulations. I recommend that you always use 6-sided sockets for high torque nuts or bolts.
Phil in gorgeous Young Harris, Georgia, USA
I agree just didn’t have any thin wall ones with me
No matter what you do and how you do it Matt, you always have the experts telling you what you're doing wrong. I've never heard a mechanic say to drain it with a cold engine. The warmer the better.
My first impression was "it sounds a thousend times better", but your impression "it sounds lightyears better" i can agree too :D Great replacement, you can have a lot of fun having that machine running as "new" .
Ive been watching your posts, and you have to be the hardest working guy on RUclips, thanks for posting.
Learnt the lesson of after market parts years ago. Hours of trying to get them to fit, genuine parts now they fit first time every time.
Given the state of most of the equipment you first get I feel like I've gotten pretty used to machines that have sat for a while but that tree got me laughing, haha!
My dad teached me to change the oil on a car after the engine was ran up to temperature.
Drains a lot better as well as quicker.
I love seeing turbo work done.
It sounds a million times better.
To get it up to temperature we would go for a drive on the highway and back.
Then it's warm enogh. Nothing quite like working with warm oil.
i’m a mechanic for a large excavation company so i work on everything from chainsaws all the way up to power screen rock crusher and screening plants. i have always ran the machines to warm the oil not necessarily get it hot, but on say a CAT 336 excavator i’d run it for about 10-15 minutes and then fully service the machine
26:04 "I do love this oil pan, this things 'grate'" waves hand over metal grate
Where taught as vehicle technicians to make sure the oil is warm/hot as it has more viscosity and helps any sludge/any metal shaving that may accrue come out better. Brilliant work and thanks for sharing this with us take care and can’t wait to see the next one
warm oil actually has LESS viscosity, so whoever taught you was wrong
She sounds great!! Such a good find at a great price. Definitely earning her keep. As always... thanks for bringing us along, I look forward to all your videos. JW
I can't wait to see ot cleaned up it's gonna be like new with all you've done to it! Glad to see her moving again!
Great job 👍👍 heating the oil before draining works great. Love the channel and it's content.