I had an old school mechanic show me a trick on the pitman arm to steering box where after I torqued it down i went to his garage he's friends w my dad and i asked if he could double check it for me and he used a grinder to make a sharp point on his center punch and hit 3 small notches in it to prevent it from backing off. I'm very grateful for his knowledge and I know he's a dying breed ..the work was on my grandfather's 95 Silverado I inherited because of his passing.. almost no rust on the truck God bless old school mechanics Super cool guy and he drives a custom dune buggy!
Glad you explained how it 'normally' goes. OTC makes a different low profile 2 jaw puller, also sold by Mac, that has the longer forcing screw that you can use a gun on. Works really nice on those and S10 4x4s. I usually zip the center link loose, then the box bolts, dump it on its side, then use an 1 5/16th socket on a gun to zap that large nut loose, then use the puller. I also use the gun to tighten the nut to get the new arm as far up the splines and as close to the old marks as possible, because what we found is that over time, if the arm is not far enough up the spines, it puts pressure down on the center link, and will wear out quickly. I also like to use the 90* grease fittings on the new arms.. because people are lazy, and generally won't take down the plastic shield to grease the arm.. Good vid for a common problem!
This is helpful, because I'm worried I'm not getting the Pitman far enough up on the splines. Seems like it should go further. THe last thing I want is that arm coming off. How do you know when you have it far enough up?
Just helped my bro-in-law do his yesterday. His pitman arm was on so tight we had to use a grinder on the eyelet of the arm itself, cut a cannel 90% depth as to not damage the splined shaft, and drive a chisel into the cut to get it to split it open. Easy peasy after twenty minutes of grinding/cutting.
I just did this job on an 07 GMC 1500. Everything was on tighter than welding - this job will challenge your religion - the pitman arm was just not going to come off - so being a 71 year old retired wrench this is what you do - take the steering box out - take a 4 inch grinder with a cut off wheel on it and cut off the outside of the pitman arm as close to the splines shaft as possible - put your puller on it and get it tight - then take your 4 in grinder and put a 60 grit flapper grinding disk on it - start grinding the flat you just made with your cutoff wheel towards the splines on the shaft - when u see or hear the pitman arm crack it might come off - if it's still stuck take a chisel and put it in the crack and give it a few wacks - that will cause the pitman to spread ever so slightly and release the splines on the steering box shaft ... just add the 3+ hours book time for the R & R of the steering box to the job ... I'm ordering one of those big air hammers tonight...
Awesome job, I have been cleaning grease out from under my fingernails for near 40 years. It's really great to see someone else that cares about the job they do and how to treat a vehicle that isn't yours. Thanks.
IN the past I have slackened the pitman nut half a turn and then driven the vehicle and made a point of doing low speed sharp turns, that often frees the arm, cheers
going to be changing my inner and outer tie rods, ball joints and idler and pitman arm on my 96 gmc this weekend, thanks for all your help and instruction, You don't know how helpful you've been to me and I'm sure countless others in repairing our vehicles. My truck has 221000 mile and my wifes 05 caravan has over 300000 and a lot of that is owed to you and your know how and willingness to pass it on.Thank you, Dean Hinesley. Texas
There is a simple trick that can be used to make removing the pitman arm incredibly easier. I have used it and can assure you that it works. All that needs to be done is to put the pitman arm puller and tighten it down as much as possible. Instead of trying to force it off, after tightening leave the puller arm overnight. When you come back in the morning, it will most likely be pulled off completely. Even if that doesn't happen in rare cases, it will still be much easier to finish removing it. The constant pressure during the night will gradually weaken whatever is holding it on until it falls off. Of course, it does take time. Maybe you could just go work on something else and come back 4-5 hours later and it might still work. I'm not sure how many hours it would take because I did it overnight and the arm was off when I looked at it in the morning.
I'm really surprised. With all that experience one would think you would know better than to brag about how well the job is going. Always, always wait till it's done. I really enjoy watching you do all the work as I sit here and eat popcorn. Keep 'em comin'.
I used to use a cut off wheel on a die grinder, and cut a slot in the arm being careful not to nick the box, you can't cut all the way through without cutting into the box,but it will cut enough of a slot that you can finish busting it open with an air hammer,yes I know it's extremely tight clearance and doesn't look possible, but it is. Good videos keep up the good work.
I have a 98 Gmc Suburban it's nice to work on a vehicle with some room isn't it. Been working on a Olds Bravada not much room and who the heck was the engineering genius I'd like to get my hands on him front CV axles that run threw a oil pan? A Problematic vehicle if I ever seen one!!! I'd work on my Old 71 Charger anyday with a Smile on my face lots of room to work with! Love watching your video's you talk clearly and with no BS and going way off track like some of them! Best of luck!
Nice find and repair. The ease of this job put a little grin on your face, gotta love it when things go right. Great job on the video in such cramped quarters.
Just done the same job on my 98 C1500. Only I replaced the entire steering linkage. Everything except the gearbox. Off to alignment today. Appreciate the video. I had to use the puller.👍
Been in the business 40 years and I have to say you got lucky. I was in on this job until I saw that "no clearance" and then after the "luck" you still couldn't wiggle that out of there. It's what makes me cuss engineers for building it like that. Anyway great video. The caveat on this is what jobs to take and what to send down to your competitor down the street. I'm never lucky it seems.Best regards, Lisa
Thank you! Your video save me like two hours of struggling myself and doing it the hard way. Now we got our Tahoe back on the road again things to you. Love your videos! Keep them coming👊
Much easier with a 2wd for those wondering. I just did it. Didn't have to loosen the sway bar. Didn't have to loosen the gear box. Regular puller fit pretty easily on the pitman arm. Getting it off was still a pain but that's how it usually goes.
I just did a full suspension rebuild on my 2006 Chevy Avalanche 1500, the pitman arm had to be the most difficult thing to break loose, used a puller tool on it with a breaker bar and it ended up breaking the attachment on the breaker bar, stripped the threads on the puller tool, tried separating it with a picklefork and sledgehammer. And nothing was working. Had to step it up about 10 notches, took an angle grinder to it and ended up cutting a wedge out of the original arm, putting the picklefork into the wedge and with the heat generated from the grinder, striking it a couple times in the wedge caused it to break free, took loosening the castle nut on the idler arm to get the bar to come down far enough to install the new pitman arm. Once it was back on, new inner and outer driver side tie rods were installed. The tire was put back on and now the truck runs great after the alignment.
Oh, that was easy. My '99 yukon ended up pulling box and cutting off the arm. Puller+heat+air hammer and it was not going anywhere. Nice to see it was easy.
Thanks for added segment on pullers, my life never goes the easy way, and the video very info friendly.I'm sure my '98 K1500 Is identical. I'll have more rust issues with mine, being 500 miles north of you, they really love their salt up here in the winter.
Wow great video, love how you showed every detail! For example showing us how to loosen the steering box. It's easy enough where you could have just said to loosen it up but the fact that you showed it in the video was awesome. It helps us DIYers that's never touched this kind of stuff before Thanks!
A few summers ago I decided to replace every front end part on my 96 Jeep Grand Cherokee including the steering box and track bar, left the ball joints original. I took the drag link down attached to the tie rod ends and replaced the tie rod end sleeves so all i did was take a total length measurement and set up the new parts to the same length. Thank God for crows feet for the power steering line on the steering box, the only way to reach it, I replaced the pitman arm too as it was only 15.00 buck range, not worth trying to fight to save a few bucks. When I torqued the nut there was room for a torque wrench so I maxed out my torque wrench at 150 lbs then with a 1/2 breaker I gave about another 1/8 turn so close to the suggested setting. Also replaced all the control arms with fixed length, stock height tubular arms with poly bushings, certainly rides much stiffer now as poly has no absorption. Track bar installation can be a PITA That drag link on your video looks like it has been changed recently or at least not original
Eric stay with your old "hey there viewers" its much better, its your RUclips brand. Another great video Eric, learning much. Regards Stewart, Australia.
Wow that was so easy thank you for making this video I have a 01 Chevy Tahoe I have to replace both pitman and idler arms and im so glad I don’t have to pull the gearbox out I definitely be using your method thank you again
Ordered parts to do my 2001 1500 HD. NOT SURE IF MINE HAS 3 or 4 big splines. I’m praying for the correct part! I hope mine goes this smooth, every bolt I’ve turned on this truck has been like it’s welded on. Great video! Thank u
This is the best video I've seen a replacing this.. I hope this works on my 2000 Escalade. when I turn slow and sharp the tire jerk and pops. Sometimes driving I have to either at 2 or 10 to keep the truck straight
After changing a few pitman arms myself I always found the steering wheel to be a few degrees off from where it was prior. I assumed that the machining for the splines was just a hair off and was amplified through the steering box to the steering wheel. Even though a pitman arm has no adjustment like a tie rod or upper control arm (since it's keyed with a larger spline in most cases) I always ended up getting an alignment to recenter the steering wheel.
I just got my Airpro 3/8 drive impacting air wrench. Its really awesome. I can't believe how small it is,you can get into all kinds of places with it. I would definitely recommend contacting Sataman Schmidt to buy one.
I really like what i am seeing. Food for thought and I am very impress. What i would like to see is changing the bushings on the bottom arm of the L200 Mitsubishi double cab k34. 4d56.
You are livin right I guess, that went way to well, nice to get an easy one fer a change, enjoyed the video, all my best to the Family, be safe, have fun, stay busy.
Hopefully you answer, but I have to replace the pitman and idler arm. How should I go about it? The guys at shop wanted 1k it replace and put on everything (shocks and alignment too) and I just don't have that kind of scratch. Any advice would be a life saver.
I have a 98 Tahoe and did this job but everything went smooth however it is a Denver truck so very little to no rust. I was surprised how clean the truck in this video was.
Great video, thank you. I've been thinking that they have changed the angle of tapered parts. Have noticed for a couple of years now, that steering parts come apart with a lot less struggle than they once did. Hope that's the case, I'm fixing to do just that job on my own GMC.
I pulled on once on an old international scout. It was a bear. I even toyed with the idea to cut the end off and weld a new end on but I thought better of it. Actually did that once though on some 53 buick lever shocks. Those puppies would not budge. Thanks for the video.
Thanks for the video. About to attempt the pitman as part of front end rebuild on a 1986 C20 2wd. Should be easier than on the 4wd. but having some idea what to expect really helps.
Think it could have failed due to it being put on so loose if/when somebody replaced it previously? Will it be basically the same in a 92 k3500 im possibly picking one up later tonight that he was told has a bad pitman arm
I was shaking my head when that came out so easy!!said jeesz why that never happend to me!!..great video erick..heyy someone wants to show up in your videos..lol
would I have to do the same thing when I change the steering box and pitman arm .I have a Chevy g20 van and we're can I get a socket to fit that nut on Pittman arm I have a lot of play in steering wheel.i have 30 30 degrees to turn it and keep it straight
I got my suburban back from alignment shop the other day. They put new parts including pitman arm in, but the steering wheel is now 90 degrees off. I'm NOT taking it back to them, but I should, with the wheels straight, be able to take the pitman arm loose, turn the steering wheel where it needs to be, and put it back together, correct?
I am going to have to rebuild most of my front end this summer including new gearbox pitman arm idler arm upper control arm bushings and upper and lower ball joints probably won't nothing go smoothly never does on rusty bolts!
My ‘faithful 01 Suburban has 210k miles on it, I’m starting to see uneven tire wear. I want to keep it, so should I just go ahead and change out the pitman/suspension related parts ?
I had an OBS K3500 Chevy that had a death wobble over bumps. Had it worked on just in time, because the mechanic said the Pitman arm nut was so loose, he didn't need a wrench or puller to remove it.
Believe it or not Eric I think this is one of the best videos you've done. I've worked on old UK trucks from the 50's up to the mid 80's and never done a pitman arm /steering box Plus you've showed me the tools I didn't know were made Don't take that as another hint for a tour of your tool box .I've never honestly seen those tools anywhere even when I was an apprentice .I think I lost out on valuable education . As said great video really enjoyed it . You and your family take care. Darren
It's great that you are passing on your experience to the next generation.Liked the video and buy your neighbour a new mower for his next birthday before everyone sells up and moves home.Sounded like a used 747 jet engine.
I was able to get the pitman off my Mom's blazer without having to use heat. My Impact wasn't strong enough to pull it off with the puller, so I resorted to a 26 inch breaker bar with a pipe.
I have the same vehicle, but in pickup form. That job, along with a few others, is why it is sitting right now. I assure you, mine will not go that easy lol
So, Eric, seeing as how both ends of the arm were so lose, could you maybe have just torqued the bolts and gotten that thing to tighten up? Did it unquestionably need to be replaced?
I notice something, the Sway Bar was tight to giving you any room to get loose Pitman arm out! You then loosened up steering box to get it out. Could you have taken off 1 Sway Bar bushing or both to drop the Sway Bar out of the way? Vrs messing with steering box?
So guess what I was doing today! I envy how easy you had it here. I was unable to get the nut off the steering gear, despite heat and a 4' snipe on a breaker bar with upwards of 4000 ft*lbs of torque trying to undo the bloody thing. Oh well! The steering box had some play in it anyway, so now it's DEFINITELY getting replaced...
My american willies jeep 1967 having manual steering gear box.from long time i buy this jeep i can turn full only one side (up to tire touches the body.)But other side can turn only half only.So for turn other side i have to from and back the jeep 2-3 times.Where is the problem?How can i fix the problem.Please help me..Thanks.
Sooo....I'm just curious and just asking. Would it not be easier to loosen the sway bar (linkage and frame bolts - just loosen, not remove) to get the pitman arm out rather than messing with the gear box? I've never worked on a 4WD suspension (it's planned for the weekend when it stops raining), but on my old 2WD, that's how I got the pitman out and back in. So again....just asking. This thread may be so old, no one will respond. But thank you.
Thanks for posting this it gave me the piece of mind that my air hammer could be my friend in this job. I know I'll prob be cursing at it but I'm gonna do it like all my other truck repairs I've braved through in the past. Coincidentally I'm changing my power steering line the same day so removing the whole steering box might not be a bad idea in my case. If you have any words of advise feel free to comment but most of all thanks for sharing your experience, Bobby J with the 07 GMC Sierra 1500 classic
Talking about getting a break on a job … the way I thought of it when I was working flat-rate in a dealership was that the “good” and the “bad” (and even the “ugly!?!) would even out over time - sometimes a job would go really smoothly, everything would fit right and everything worked - awesome - made flat-rate or a little better on one job, then on a later job every freakin’ thing was stuck/broke/bent/didn’t work, so every step took longer than it should - that took more than flat-rate (sometimes by a lot, to do the work correctly). Evened out, over time. I knew some guys who would add extra charges for every sheared cotter pin, buggered nut, and similar stuff - I never did, again, just figuring it worked out over time. I don't know how many others thought that way? Eventually, however, I quit because the shop never cared if I did it right or not, all they cared about was maximizing $/bay with fewest come-backs (that is NOT the same thing as doing the job right).
How much does the labor cost for this job? I went to the hobby shop got her up on the lift and could NOT break the steering arm nut off... I don't trust myself to use the heat that's probably going to be required to break it free, so I'm wondering how much someone would charge to get it off. Have the part already.
![How to Replace Pitman Arm 95-00 Chevy Tahoe [PART 1]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/cu8Da5W53Uo/mqdefault.jpg)
I had an old school mechanic show me a trick on the pitman arm to steering box where after I torqued it down i went to his garage he's friends w my dad and i asked if he could double check it for me and he used a grinder to make a sharp point on his center punch and hit 3 small notches in it to prevent it from backing off. I'm very grateful for his knowledge and I know he's a dying breed ..the work was on my grandfather's 95 Silverado I inherited because of his passing.. almost no rust on the truck God bless old school mechanics Super cool guy and he drives a custom dune buggy!
Glad you explained how it 'normally' goes. OTC makes a different low profile 2 jaw puller, also sold by Mac, that has the longer forcing screw that you can use a gun on. Works really nice on those and S10 4x4s. I usually zip the center link loose, then the box bolts, dump it on its side, then use an 1 5/16th socket on a gun to zap that large nut loose, then use the puller. I also use the gun to tighten the nut to get the new arm as far up the splines and as close to the old marks as possible, because what we found is that over time, if the arm is not far enough up the spines, it puts pressure down on the center link, and will wear out quickly. I also like to use the 90* grease fittings on the new arms.. because people are lazy, and generally won't take down the plastic shield to grease the arm.. Good vid for a common problem!
This is helpful, because I'm worried I'm not getting the Pitman far enough up on the splines. Seems like it should go further. THe last thing I want is that arm coming off. How do you know when you have it far enough up?
Just helped my bro-in-law do his yesterday. His pitman arm was on so tight we had to use a grinder on the eyelet of the arm itself, cut a cannel 90% depth as to not damage the splined shaft, and drive a chisel into the cut to get it to split it open. Easy peasy after twenty minutes of grinding/cutting.
I just did this job on an 07 GMC 1500. Everything was on tighter than welding - this job will challenge your religion - the pitman arm was just not going to come off - so being a 71 year old retired wrench this is what you do - take the steering box out - take a 4 inch grinder with a cut off wheel on it and cut off the outside of the pitman arm as close to the splines shaft as possible - put your puller on it and get it tight - then take your 4 in grinder and put a 60 grit flapper grinding disk on it - start grinding the flat you just made with your cutoff wheel towards the splines on the shaft - when u see or hear the pitman arm crack it might come off - if it's still stuck take a chisel and put it in the crack and give it a few wacks - that will cause the pitman to spread ever so slightly and release the splines on the steering box shaft ... just add the 3+ hours book time for the R & R of the steering box to the job ... I'm ordering one of those big air hammers tonight...
Awesome job, I have been cleaning grease out from under my fingernails for near 40 years. It's really great to see someone else that cares about the job they do and how to treat a vehicle that isn't yours. Thanks.
IN the past I have slackened the pitman nut half a turn and then driven the vehicle and made a point of doing low speed sharp turns, that often frees the arm, cheers
going to be changing my inner and outer tie rods, ball joints and idler and pitman arm on my 96 gmc this weekend, thanks for all your help and instruction, You don't know how helpful you've been to me and I'm sure countless others in repairing our vehicles. My truck has 221000 mile and my wifes 05 caravan has over 300000 and a lot of that is owed to you and your know how and willingness to pass it on.Thank you, Dean Hinesley. Texas
There is a simple trick that can be used to make removing the pitman arm incredibly easier. I have used it and can assure you that it works. All that needs to be done is to put the pitman arm puller and tighten it down as much as possible. Instead of trying to force it off, after tightening leave the puller arm overnight. When you come back in the morning, it will most likely be pulled off completely. Even if that doesn't happen in rare cases, it will still be much easier to finish removing it. The constant pressure during the night will gradually weaken whatever is holding it on until it falls off. Of course, it does take time. Maybe you could just go work on something else and come back 4-5 hours later and it might still work. I'm not sure how many hours it would take because I did it overnight and the arm was off when I looked at it in the morning.
musicfanclassical I wish I would have read this before ruining my puller and resorting to cutting mine off
45 year mechanic. I prefer your videos over others. Thanks for the heads up.
Glad to see that you had an easy repair Eric, and it showed on your face how happy you were. Take care....
stuzman52 Oh man your not kidding Terry. Glad to catch a break here and there :)
I'm really surprised. With all that experience one would think you would know better than to brag about how well the job is going. Always, always wait till it's done. I really enjoy watching you do all the work as I sit here and eat popcorn. Keep 'em comin'.
tommie293 I know I know but it was going so well haha
I've watched a number of your repair videos. I would not hesitate to let you work on my vehicles if I lived near your shop. Keep up the good work.
I used to use a cut off wheel on a die grinder, and cut a slot in the arm being careful not to nick the box, you can't cut all the way through without cutting into the box,but it will cut enough of a slot that you can finish busting it open with an air hammer,yes I know it's extremely tight clearance and doesn't look possible, but it is. Good videos keep up the good work.
I just did my 98 Tahoe the same way but instead of me and doing my steering box I took the 4 bolts off the sway bar and it came out really easy
budgetwheeler4x4 exactly
Yup. So did i.
Sparta Did you have to undo the links?
You did it without a pitman arm puller?
@@fredricthomas6654 budgetwheeler4x4 is referring to getting the arm out, because of clearance, he already had it free from both ends.
I have a 98 Gmc Suburban it's nice to work on a vehicle with some room isn't it. Been working on a Olds Bravada not much room and who the heck was the engineering genius I'd like to get my hands on him front CV axles that run threw a oil pan? A Problematic vehicle if I ever seen one!!! I'd work on my Old 71 Charger anyday with a Smile on my face lots of room to work with! Love watching your video's you talk clearly and with no BS and going way off track like some of them! Best of luck!
Nice find and repair. The ease of this job put a little grin on your face, gotta love it when things go right. Great job on the video in such cramped quarters.
DC Rickerson It was tight but I tried my best :)
Just done the same job on my 98 C1500. Only I replaced the entire steering linkage. Everything except the gearbox. Off to alignment today. Appreciate the video. I had to use the puller.👍
Nice to see someone who actually knows the proper installation procedure for a cotter pin! Most mechanics don't know or don't bother. Cheers!
Been in the business 40 years and I have to say you got lucky. I was in on this job until I saw that "no clearance" and then after the "luck" you still couldn't wiggle that out of there. It's what makes me cuss engineers for building it like that. Anyway great video. The caveat on this is what jobs to take and what to send down to your competitor down the street. I'm never lucky it seems.Best regards,
Lisa
I did this exact job about four years ago. It fought me from start to finish. You must be living right Mr O lol. Awesome video as usual.
Thank you! Your video save me like two hours of struggling myself and doing it the hard way. Now we got our Tahoe back on the road again things to you. Love your videos! Keep them coming👊
I had a lot of questions along the way and then you systematically answered them bang bang bang like a boss. Good teachin.
Much easier with a 2wd for those wondering. I just did it. Didn't have to loosen the sway bar. Didn't have to loosen the gear box. Regular puller fit pretty easily on the pitman arm. Getting it off was still a pain but that's how it usually goes.
I just did a full suspension rebuild on my 2006 Chevy Avalanche 1500, the pitman arm had to be the most difficult thing to break loose, used a puller tool on it with a breaker bar and it ended up breaking the attachment on the breaker bar, stripped the threads on the puller tool, tried separating it with a picklefork and sledgehammer. And nothing was working. Had to step it up about 10 notches, took an angle grinder to it and ended up cutting a wedge out of the original arm, putting the picklefork into the wedge and with the heat generated from the grinder, striking it a couple times in the wedge caused it to break free, took loosening the castle nut on the idler arm to get the bar to come down far enough to install the new pitman arm. Once it was back on, new inner and outer driver side tie rods were installed. The tire was put back on and now the truck runs great after the alignment.
Oh, that was easy. My '99 yukon ended up pulling box and cutting off the arm. Puller+heat+air hammer and it was not going anywhere. Nice to see it was easy.
Thanks for added segment on pullers, my life never goes the easy way, and the video very info friendly.I'm sure my '98 K1500 Is identical. I'll have more rust issues with mine, being 500 miles north of you, they really love their salt up here in the winter.
Wow great video, love how you showed every detail! For example showing us how to loosen the steering box. It's easy enough where you could have just said to loosen it up but the fact that you showed it in the video was awesome. It helps us DIYers that's never touched this kind of stuff before Thanks!
A few summers ago I decided to replace every front end part on my 96 Jeep Grand Cherokee including the steering box and track bar, left the ball joints original. I took the drag link down attached to the tie rod ends and replaced the tie rod end sleeves so all i did was take a total length measurement and set up the new parts to the same length. Thank God for crows feet for the power steering line on the steering box, the only way to reach it, I replaced the pitman arm too as it was only 15.00 buck range, not worth trying to fight to save a few bucks. When I torqued the nut there was room for a torque wrench so I maxed out my torque wrench at 150 lbs then with a 1/2 breaker I gave about another 1/8 turn so close to the suggested setting. Also replaced all the control arms with fixed length, stock height tubular arms with poly bushings, certainly rides much stiffer now as poly has no absorption.
Track bar installation can be a PITA
That drag link on your video looks like it has been changed recently or at least not original
jim dandy :D Track bars are easy if you know the little trick.
Yeah I just did the pitman arm on my Chevy just like this. Was the hardest wrenching I've ever done that didn't result in breaking something.
Eric stay with your old "hey there viewers" its much better, its your RUclips brand. Another great video Eric, learning much. Regards Stewart, Australia.
Yes! A break for a change. I know this was months ago but it was still fun to see you breeze through a job.
Wow that was so easy thank you for making this video I have a 01 Chevy Tahoe I have to replace both pitman and idler arms and im so glad I don’t have to pull the gearbox out I definitely be using your method thank you again
Ordered parts to do my 2001 1500 HD. NOT SURE IF MINE HAS 3 or 4 big splines. I’m praying for the correct part! I hope mine goes this smooth, every bolt I’ve turned on this truck has been like it’s welded on. Great video! Thank u
Someone must be living right, to get that pitman off that easy.
This is the best video I've seen a replacing this.. I hope this works on my 2000 Escalade. when I turn slow and sharp the tire jerk and pops. Sometimes driving I have to either at 2 or 10 to keep the truck straight
After changing a few pitman arms myself I always found the steering wheel to be a few degrees off from where it was prior. I assumed that the machining for the splines was just a hair off and was amplified through the steering box to the steering wheel.
Even though a pitman arm has no adjustment like a tie rod or upper control arm (since it's keyed with a larger spline in most cases) I always ended up getting an alignment to recenter the steering wheel.
I just got my Airpro 3/8 drive impacting air wrench. Its really awesome. I can't believe how small it is,you can get into all kinds of places with it. I would definitely recommend contacting Sataman Schmidt to buy one.
Michael Herbert That's what I am saying. I use the crap outta it and it is still going strong. Plus it is pretty cheap for what it is...
Holy cow!!! That's a really nice tool box Eric. I love the blue!!!! I have a snapon double bay its red though
Paul Morales Thanks
I really like what i am seeing. Food for thought and I am very impress. What i would like to see is changing the bushings on the bottom arm of the L200 Mitsubishi double cab k34. 4d56.
You are livin right I guess, that went way to well, nice to get an easy one fer a change, enjoyed the video, all my best to the Family, be safe, have fun, stay busy.
joel mccoin Good to get an easy one i tell ya
Hopefully you answer, but I have to replace the pitman and idler arm. How should I go about it? The guys at shop wanted 1k it replace and put on everything (shocks and alignment too) and I just don't have that kind of scratch. Any advice would be a life saver.
I have a 98 Tahoe and did this job but everything went smooth however it is a Denver truck so very little to no rust. I was surprised how clean the truck in this video was.
That was a lucky day, hope you bought a lottery ticket on the way home!
binnsh Should a right lol
Great video, thank you. I've been thinking that they have changed the angle of tapered parts. Have noticed for a couple of years now, that steering parts come apart with a lot less struggle than they once did. Hope that's the case, I'm fixing to do just that job on my own GMC.
It's not fair!!!!!!!!!!! It all came apart so freaking easy!!! I call foul!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
I pulled on once on an old international scout. It was a bear. I even toyed with the idea to cut the end off and weld a new end on but I thought better of it. Actually did that once though on some 53 buick lever shocks. Those puppies would not budge. Thanks for the video.
Don Guptill Glad you enjoyed, thanks for the stories :)
Thanks for the video. About to attempt the pitman as part of front end rebuild on a 1986 C20 2wd. Should be easier than on the 4wd. but having some idea what to expect really helps.
Think it could have failed due to it being put on so loose if/when somebody replaced it previously? Will it be basically the same in a 92 k3500 im possibly picking one up later tonight that he was told has a bad pitman arm
Im just curious, instead of removing the steering box, why not drop the sway bar for the clearance needed to remove the pitman arm.
I was shaking my head when that came out so easy!!said jeesz why that never happend to me!!..great video erick..heyy someone wants to show up in your videos..lol
Stenio Fernandez I know right way to easy. Who is gonna show up?
Glad to see that things went your way for once.
Joseph Costello I know right!?
When torquing it do you still put threadlock on it ?
would I have to do the same thing when I change the steering box and pitman arm .I have a Chevy g20 van and we're can I get a socket to fit that nut on Pittman arm I have a lot of play in steering wheel.i have 30 30 degrees to turn it and keep it straight
Why not change idled arm while you're at it? I know as a shop owner that unless it's bad, etc. But as a DIY guy, would it be a good idea?
I got my suburban back from alignment shop the other day. They put new parts including pitman arm in, but the steering wheel is now 90 degrees off. I'm NOT taking it back to them, but I should, with the wheels straight, be able to take the pitman arm loose, turn the steering wheel where it needs to be, and put it back together, correct?
Couldn’t you drop the sway bar to get a little more clearance? Or does that not help?
I am going to have to rebuild most of my front end this summer including new gearbox pitman arm idler arm upper control arm bushings and upper and lower ball joints probably won't nothing go smoothly never does on rusty bolts!
I never had one go anywhere near that easy lol - usually they are pressed on the splines soooo tight. Good for you
get lucky once in a while
is that the same way on a 1999 chevy s10 blazer 4x4 ?
My ‘faithful 01 Suburban has 210k miles on it, I’m starting to see uneven tire wear. I want to keep it, so should I just go ahead and change out the pitman/suspension related parts ?
I've never seen them come out that easy! Good job, Great Video!
Nice job I've never had one go that easy you got lucky
Allyn MacLaren Jr Man your not kidding !
I had an OBS K3500 Chevy that had a death wobble over bumps. Had it worked on just in time, because the mechanic said the Pitman arm nut was so loose, he didn't need a wrench or puller to remove it.
Is lube used on the tapered shaft beneath the thread portion of the ball joints; where they meet the connecting arm?
Believe it or not Eric I think this is one of the best videos you've done. I've worked on old UK trucks from the 50's up to the mid 80's and never done a pitman arm /steering box Plus you've showed me the tools I didn't know were made Don't take that as another hint for a tour of your tool box .I've never honestly seen those tools anywhere even when I was an apprentice .I think I lost out on valuable education . As said great video really enjoyed it . You and your family take care. Darren
Brings back old memory
It's great that you are passing on your experience to the next generation.Liked the video and buy your neighbour a new mower for his next birthday before everyone sells up and moves home.Sounded like a used 747 jet engine.
Tom OConnor Lol and he mows his 1/25th acre 4 times a week ....
What do you mean when u say it came in for a state inspection?what is that?
I was able to get the pitman off my Mom's blazer without having to use heat. My Impact wasn't strong enough to pull it off with the puller, so I resorted to a 26 inch breaker bar with a pipe.
You should do a tool box tour/shop tour video!
Just replaced mine based on the info from this video. Wasn’t quite as easy lol but successful! Thanks for the info !
What is that you sprayed on the tierods?
Great video, thanks! Do you know if the newer Chevy's have pitman arms or rack and pinion steering?
Nice touch with the License Plate at the end of the video. Keep up the good work!!
I have the same vehicle, but in pickup form. That job, along with a few others, is why it is sitting right now. I assure you, mine will not go that easy lol
Eric Brunhammer Time to get a puller
Eric Brunhammer oh and a sledge and a torch lol
So, Eric, seeing as how both ends of the arm were so lose, could you maybe have just torqued the bolts and gotten that thing to tighten up? Did it unquestionably need to be replaced?
Getting ready doin the whole shabang , inners / outers along with ball joints and both pitman and idler arms , prob the idler arm bracket too .
And what was that for?
I notice something, the Sway Bar was tight to giving you any room to get loose Pitman arm out! You then loosened up steering box to get it out. Could you have taken off 1 Sway Bar bushing or both to drop the Sway Bar out of the way? Vrs messing with steering box?
What was the "home brew" and what did you spray it on...and why?
So guess what I was doing today!
I envy how easy you had it here. I was unable to get the nut off the steering gear, despite heat and a 4' snipe on a breaker bar with upwards of 4000 ft*lbs of torque trying to undo the bloody thing. Oh well! The steering box had some play in it anyway, so now it's DEFINITELY getting replaced...
+rhkips I have had to torch them off in the past that is why this vid was such a miracle lol
Is the Escalade about the same?
Question how many groove splines are in a 2006 GMC Sierra 1500
Anti-seize on the splines of the steering box output shaft?
How are those right angle impacts? Is there a decent amount of torque on them?
+Zach Pascoe This is the best one I know of and use personally astore.amazon.com/httpswwwy0837-20/detail/B003V9P6RO
Great video as always! I would love to se a tool box tour
Emin HVAC Bahhh it is not as impressive as some may think. Just a bunch of stuff in a box :)
South Main Auto Repair lol
What tools do I need? You should start that out at the beginning of the video. Great teaching
My american willies jeep 1967 having manual steering gear box.from long time i
buy this jeep i can turn full only one side (up to tire touches the
body.)But other side can turn only half only.So for turn other side i
have to from and back the jeep 2-3 times.Where is the problem?How can i
fix the problem.Please help me..Thanks.
Whats your homebrew lubricant/rust prevent mix ?
Sooo....I'm just curious and just asking. Would it not be easier to loosen the sway bar (linkage and frame bolts - just loosen, not remove) to get the pitman arm out rather than messing with the gear box? I've never worked on a 4WD suspension (it's planned for the weekend when it stops raining), but on my old 2WD, that's how I got the pitman out and back in. So again....just asking. This thread may be so old, no one will respond. But thank you.
Do you have a tool that can fit in there to torque that nut to ~184 or do you do it by feel?
Thanks for posting this it gave me the piece of mind that my air hammer could be my friend in this job. I know I'll prob be cursing at it but I'm gonna do it like all my other truck repairs I've braved through in the past. Coincidentally I'm changing my power steering line the same day so removing the whole steering box might not be a bad idea in my case. If you have any words of advise feel free to comment but most of all thanks for sharing your experience,
Bobby J with the 07 GMC Sierra 1500 classic
Talking about getting a break on a job … the way I thought of it when I was working flat-rate in a dealership was that the “good” and the “bad” (and even the “ugly!?!) would even out over time - sometimes a job would go really smoothly, everything would fit right and everything worked - awesome - made flat-rate or a little better on one job, then on a later job every freakin’ thing was stuck/broke/bent/didn’t work, so every step took longer than it should - that took more than flat-rate (sometimes by a lot, to do the work correctly). Evened out, over time. I knew some guys who would add extra charges for every sheared cotter pin, buggered nut, and similar stuff - I never did, again, just figuring it worked out over time. I don't know how many others thought that way?
Eventually, however, I quit because the shop never cared if I did it right or not, all they cared about was maximizing $/bay with fewest come-backs (that is NOT the same thing as doing the job right).
looks like she was oil undercoated throughtout it's life... likely why stuff came apart nice! Thanks for the video Eric!
or maybe it just had some kinda leak that kept the steering linkage oily lol...
Rick James It's a old Chevy and you know what they say. If there aint no oil under'em then there aint no oil in'em :)
I've seen a few videos talking about cars failing inspection what does that mean I've never had to get that ??
How much does the labor cost for this job? I went to the hobby shop got her up on the lift and could NOT break the steering arm nut off... I don't trust myself to use the heat that's probably going to be required to break it free, so I'm wondering how much someone would charge to get it off. Have the part already.
( Dan H. ) great vid. I always use anti - seize on the splines during reassembly.
I liked your video you actually make it look easy appreciate you taking the time to help out thanks
That’s awesome dude like a rough estimate how much does it cost to do a job like that?
You had a really easy ride this time for once! lol another great video
James'sWorld Ahhh finally!
Any easy way to tell what groove I got? They have 3 and 4 groove.