The Baseboard (130)
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- Опубликовано: 12 сен 2024
- Every model railroad has to have a base of some kind to build upon and that's where we'll start with this one. Although the layout will be 2'x8' I am actually going to build it as a pair of 2'x4' modules that will be joined most of the time. That will make it easier to transport and and also to work on since I will be able to break it apart for that. So come on along as I knock together the lumber and plywood for the baseboard for this layout.
Outstanding video, thank you Larry.
Larry, one of the best bits of advice i’ve got from your videos is the use of XPS insulation board. ( UK Brand Name over here. )
First time I’ve used it and wish I had used it before. Yes there is sound reduction but as I glue my track over a cork track bed, the use of small pins to hold down the track is a great advantage. I model N gauge, and use 20mm pins (3/4”) pushed in on an angle over the sleepers. This holds the track in place until the PVA has set... then just pull out the pins,store and re-use. If track has to be lifted, a small application of hot water with a pipette and a flat chisel and the track is lifted. No damage to the wood sub-structure or the insulation board. So many advantages using it! Thanks Larry.. Colin... ( London)
I like that you used basic sound construction methods. No fancy dove tails, mortices etc. This is a great start for many entering the hobby. Too many videos assume one knows or has these basic skills. Keep them coming and I am sure some of who have been doing this for a while will always pickup something new..........
good baseboard
Great video for a novice like me, look forward to watching the rest of the series.
great video,Finally a video on exactly what friends I talk to what and need for there limited space and what to do railroading ,most people don’t have large space in current time these days and get very discouraged of going into the hobby after see large layouts they can’t have ,keep up the great work and hope others have videos out in this area
Larry, your explanation of woodwork is a must see for any layman doing lumber construction. Concerning the second and third part of mounting the plywood, you first pulled out your square, and measured them, you could also square ‘m from the side you already did. And the same can be squared out for the middle brace.
Hi Larry, great video.
We are doing similar things with our NMRA Division 1 in Queensland, Australia with the FreeMo system
We have available the foam sheeting through our model shops and hardware stores.
Sounds great!
I had a similar idea to cover my baseboards with foam. I was going to use 5mm thick, but now I can see it needs to be thicker and I can use the 5mm for a trackbed. Thank you. Martin (Thailand)
Yes, the thicker foam is a good scenery base. However I don’t go much thicker than the 1/2” (12-13mm) since it makes it harder to use any kind of motorized or manual turnout point control mechanism. As it is the 1” total thickness means I have to use longer throw rods with my Tortoises.
@@TheDCCGuy Well, that is something I was NOT aware of nor considered. I have 32 tortoise switches (already in possession) for my planned layout. I was going to use L brackets along with 1/4" ply and 2" foam for the base. Where would one get longer throw rods? Or do they have to be made or do I need to re-engineer my benchwork design? Thx.
Thanks for putting this series together...great teaching model...can’t wait for your continued efforts. via dana 66 yo Mainer..
Nice vid!
I've been looking forward to this series since you first mentioned it. Pleased to see you diving right in.
I'm quite a bit further along with my layout, but it will be interesting to see how I should have done things.
Hi Larry, new subscriber here, looking forward to joining you on this new series. Thanks for making these great videos.
These videos should be set out from other videos in a dedicated play list.."lets build a model railroad"
Good idea, I’ll do that as soon as I get time!
If it was me I’d be gluing as well as screwing everything he’s showing
OK... I've just found your channel and I've since subscribed to it. I'm hoping I'll be learning more about DCC as time permits.
Welcome aboard. Feel free to go back and view some of my 131 older videos that provide a lot of info on DCC.
A very informative video, Larry. I'm glad that you're branching out into other model railroading areas, like this one, for example. I'm avidly looking forward for more videos documenting your approaches to modular layouts.
Three comments so far, on your construction techniques. First, I notice that you don't use any glue on your woodworking joints. I've always thought that a glued joint is significantly stronger than one made with just screws. Maybe it would be a bit of overkill in this instance, but is there some particular reason for this?
Second, I've used XTrackCad (a JMRI-affiliated freeware program) to design a few layouts. XTrackCad allows you to design your trackwork first, and then fill in your benchwork to suit. This is particularly handy in respect to placement of intermediate bracing members. With its LAYERS feature, XTrackCad allows you to put the benchwork on a separate layer, and display or hide it to suit your purposes.
Thirdly, the end face pieces -- your approach has them being intermittent to the side stringers. Being as the end faces are meant to square up with the end face of an adjacent module, wouldn't it be better technique to have the end pieces be through, and the side pieces be intercostal to the end pieces (i.e, the way you had them first joined up)? This is the way I have always seen modules built.
I actually used a hand saw with a mitre box to cut my one by lumber.
Nice video.
IF USING FOAM, why not use thinner plywood and thicker foam. One can even sandwich the thin foam
with plywood for strength and to hold screws, or to glue to, and add your top foam to carve? I will agree one can not stand on this, but these units look to be more than something to move about the bedroom?
FOR THOSE WHO "FEEL" I MAY BE AGAINST THIS PROJECT--wrong, as I think it is a fantastic project!!!
Why do I bring such forward? I read the mags and OVER-built such units INITIALLY and have since found materials which are easily capable of supporting any of our railroads.
mario mader Hi Mario, I agree with your assessment on adhesives and screws or nails. I should have been clearer in my comment. I wasn’t questioning only the use of adhesives. Working with carpenters/ cabinet makers on remodeling our home, I asked why the wood glue if were using nails or wood screws? It seemed like overkill to me. They explained that by using both it gave extra strength to the pieces joined and if those pieces were moving or influenced by moving it created a stronger bond. Just using for a stationary layout screws would be enough but if in modular when the item being built will be moved or transported, to me the adhesive gives more stability and strength. Not trying to be critical I was just asking as my experience is with walls, doors, floors and rough in framing.
I just watched your video on building a modular baseboard it encouraged me to take a look at the plans I had drawned up earlier and totally redesign it. Because my old plan had too weird of a joint between the two modules. Now as I redraw it the only problem I have is will the Trix turnout decoders that I want to use be able operate the RC type servo motors that I wish to use under the Trix C track or would the output on the decoder be to high voltage for the servo motors (because I don't like the sound that solenoid make as it un-naturally snap from side to side). I know that tortoise and other made a servo type switch machines but to use them I would have to tear into my turnouts and violate the warranty. Maybe Larry you could do a video on this. Feel free to email me if you have any questions please.
Have you looked at the servo system available from Tam Valley Depot or Walthers? I am not familiar with the Trix turnouts and their internals, but I regularly gut my Peco and Micro Engineering turnouts to get rid of their centering springs. Once a Trix turnout is painted and weathered is it still under warranty?
It is a very good idea to predrill before driving those screws in. It will split that wood if you don't. Don't ask how I know that 🤣🤣😂
Great, helpful video! Thank you. You don’t glue the your baseboards in putting it together?
Larry - do you have a cut list for the lumber?
No, there are just a few pieces to cut for each module.
Looking forward to seeing the rest of the series. Interested in all the references to the UK and using some of their terminology (Baseboard etc.) Are you going to make this a UK themed layout to run your UK locos?
Yes.
@@TheDCCGuy That's going to be fun to watch. What got you going in that direction?
Long story that I will share at a later date. Short version the Flying Scotsman made its US tour when I was in high school.
I use to make the base for ntrak modules like this.
Great, clear instruction. Is there any structural reason one could not just mount the foam straight to the box, instead of having the plywood prior?
Structure rigidity and another issue I will address when we got to it.
nice job are you going to put sculptamold over the foam for the scenery.
Yes, but I also use light weight premixed drywall plaster a lot too. I find that the fiber in the sculptamold makes it a little more difficult to sand whereas a low dust drywall plaster is designed for sanding to a smooth finish if needed. So if I plan a heavy layer of Woodland Scenics foam and other materials the Sculptamold is fine but for thin layers like parking lots I use the drywall plaster. As I mentioned in my video on scenery I also like to paint the foam too depending on what the final scenery will be. So muddy colors around roads and parking lots and bare earth, and green under fields and other grassy type areas.
FROM EXPERIENCE, WHEN THINGS BECOME MORE PERMENENT, THE CENTER SUPPORT FOR THE BACK WALL SIDE SHOULD USE A SEPARATE BLOCK AS A JOINT AND DRILL IN FROM THE SIDE. A SWITCH SEEMS TO ALWAYS FALL ON THIS SUPPORT- DOESN'T IT?
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Larry, Don’t you use any adhesive where wood meets wood during assembling such as a wood glue or such? I understand the need to be able to set cross support still once in they stay in?
No, I believe in wood screws not glue. I used to build bamboo fly rods and I know that most glues creep under stress, especially PVA type wood glues. Screws don’t creep.
Not sure that the stress on a fly rod would be the same as stress on a stationary joint. Most woodworkers use screws to hold the joint in place while the glue dries. In most cabinet type applications (and this base would be one) glue forms a stronger and more permanent bond. Even wood turners use glue and there is extreme stress produced on a lathe.
Great videos, Larry! Will you be posting a track plan anywhere for this switching layout? I have a 2x8 peninsula on my layout for which I'm looking for a good switching track plan, so I'd be interested in what you have in mind. Thanks!
Yes, and I will do a video to go over the track plan before I start laying track.
@@TheDCCGuy That's great! I'm looking forward to seeing it. Thanks!
I just have one question so far. What didn't you use wood glue as well as the screws?
I used to build bamboo fishing rods and the only glue that was truly waterproof and would not “creep” over time was resorcinol. I still don’t trust PVA type wood glues. David Popp at MR uses it on his layouts but I guess I am old school and prefer a good solid screw or nail to hold things together.
@@TheDCCGuy Gorilla glue is stronger than wood.
Although it certainly isn't planned, making change to the framing once it is all together (like moving a cross piece to make room for a switch machine) is much easier if there is no glue. Screws are plenty strong enough for this purpose. If you are still concerned about strength, a third screw could be added on the corners.
Is this module going to be built to NMRA module standards ?
No, but I am sure you could easily adapt it.
WOW--DID WE USE ENOUGH SCREWS? :) :)
Hi there! Happen to come across your video and it was excellent. Just wanted to show some support 💗 I also have a channel too. If you could have a browse that would be awesome! ❤️
Hi i enjoy your videos i heard you looking for a good mike check out Rode wireless on the go . Rode mike are used for broadcast's pod cast etc i use Rode shot on my pro camera, wireless on the Go is great for roaming . i not good at wood work . i enjoyed this video a lot my n scale is bulit in modules 2x 900mm long and 300 mm wide an 2 x at 900 long and 600 wide thanks again i do enjoy your videos gards Greg
Yes, my main mic is a Rode shotgun. I think I figured out the problem with my lapel mic. I have two and one of the microphones apparently has a bad wire which created the buzz I was getting. Another complication is that the mic needs to be as close to your throat as possible and looking at the video I had it attached to the top of my shop apron which was too low resulting in a weak pickup. I did some test recordings today and I think I have it under control now. Thanks for the tips-Larry
@@TheDCCGuy and, you need the mic more central to the source, since as you turned your head and spoke, there was a noticable drop in level. Hopefully the mic has an omni-directional pickup pattern to minimize the effect (most lapels do, headset mics better but more expensive, and some have a cardiod pickup pattern where you can aim toward the mouth)
I am ordering the Rode Wireless Go as son as they restock. Right now they are not available. I also found out that the mic I was using is unidirectional whereas an omnidirectional one would give better coverage. With this mic the sound is about the same as using the on camera mic which never seem to be very good.
@@TheDCCGuy A lot of broadcaster etc use Rode Cardioid or superCardioid Here there are very few of them in stock because of Pandemic I use Rodes and have never had an issue but it also depends on the environment and reflective surfaces so but using super Cardioid you narrow down the pickup. My Rode shotgun on my Pro Camera works well i have RUclips clip of someone singing and i am about 3 meters or more away in a big church and it sound good . The Go from what i have tested and heard people using the sound quality appears to be very good. . I am in Australia and have problem with DCC++ to buy motor shield are really expensive not being able to get DCC++ working . and model Train stuff is extremely hard to get because we are in a very tight lock down due to Pandemic some overseas shipping cost have gone through the roof to buy a $20Aud it can cost up to $69Aud to ship. I bought a Dapol n scale carriage from England and i bought a bag of static grass from here, the English one took 16 Days the one here took 30 days . I do hope It works for you and you can get one soon I do enjoy watching your Videos
Greg-thanks again. It appears that the Rode Go will not be available here until Oct 6 so I will have to either love with the old lapel mic or try to use My Rode shotgun and make sure to always look at the camera when I am talking. I also could just do voice over narration with the shotgun after the fact. I imagine Rode is behind on production due to the lockdown.
I buy most of my UK models from Hatton’s in England and surprisingly can get most orders in a couple weeks with shipping costing me less than what a similar order would cost from a dealer just 60 miles away. I also save some because they deduct the VAT. Now if the exchange rate would just go down some. At this point I think I have almost everything I need to completely build and scenic these modules. Stay safe.