I add Never Seeze to the splines and never need a puller to install a new axle. BMW CV grease turns to a thin liquid BEFORE the end of the service life of the CV joints. Regularly grease (and PRE GREASE) your CV joints with Amsoil Off Road Polymeric grease which resists separation better than any other grease I know of. . That grease in Amsoil's line up comes in two versions. Buy four tubes at a time and pay only a $10 flat rate shipping charge. Amsoil has a nearby dealer who stocks what you need to MAIL the items to you FAST! Mine actually had to come from out of state. You can't just drive and get this Top Tier grease. Use the thinner NGLI #1 version for CV joints and the thicker NLGI #2 version for ball joints. You MUST pump a LOT of grease in all these fittings before you install a new part. Not only is the OEM grease not the best, they purposely use a teeny, tiny amount to aid in the PREAMTUTRE failure of the part. Last BMW ball joints I installed needed 20 pumps per ball joint to even plump up the boots. At 20 pumps they were not over filled! Buy several 18 gauge grease NEEDLES in a kit (Amazon). You can simply slip the needle past the boot collar without even having to puncture any boot. IF you are forced to puncture a boot, just seal the micro hole with a dab of fresh SHOE GOO .....NOT RTV or any type of Silicone!! A good grease gun has adjustable tip to firmly clamp down on any fitting so the grease ALL goes in to where it is supposed to go. USE that feature! I add Zerk fittings where possible to new parts before installation. Use #3 Cobalt drill bit, and a 1/4 X 28 BOTTOMING tap and Teflon tape around the Zerk threads. I install plastic Zerk fitting CAPS on all my installs. You can get ALL of the parts and tools on Amazon. Only the high quality Cobalt drill bits (came two in a container) cost anything of note. Rest of the items are dirt cheap. Use your brain and skills and not a single chip of drilled metal will end up inside your new ball joints.
What would you suggest when the nut has turned into a blob of rust? Both my rear axle nuts have become one with the axels and are almost non existent. I want to replace the hubs but I'm worried I may destroy the axels when separating from the hub.
Wow, that sounds like a tricky situation. I've never had them where I wasn't able to take them off with a socket. If you're replacing the hubs & wheel bearings, you can try heat (oxy acetylene) to break them loose. If there's not enough there to work with, the next step is probably to carefully cut into the nuts with a dremel (not cutting deep enough to hit the axle threads) and then try to break the remaining part of the nut off with a chisel or air hammer.
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Nice one guy. I have this job coming up. Good video!
Thank you! If this doesn't work, a good quality 3 jaw puller will remove really stuck axles.
çok faydalı.TEŞEKKÜRLER
Cp VA?
I add Never Seeze to the splines and never need a puller to install a new axle.
BMW CV grease turns to a thin liquid BEFORE the end of the service life of the CV joints.
Regularly grease (and PRE GREASE) your CV joints with Amsoil Off Road Polymeric grease which resists separation better than any other grease I know of. . That grease in Amsoil's line up comes in two versions. Buy four tubes at a time and pay only a $10 flat rate shipping charge. Amsoil has a nearby dealer who stocks what you need to MAIL the items to you FAST! Mine actually had to come from out of state. You can't just drive and get this Top Tier grease.
Use the thinner NGLI #1 version for CV joints and the thicker NLGI #2 version for ball joints.
You MUST pump a LOT of grease in all these fittings before you install a new part. Not only is the OEM grease not the best, they purposely use a teeny, tiny amount to aid in the PREAMTUTRE failure of the part. Last BMW ball joints I installed needed 20 pumps per ball joint to even plump up the boots. At 20 pumps they were not over filled!
Buy several 18 gauge grease NEEDLES in a kit (Amazon). You can simply slip the needle past the boot collar without even having to puncture any boot. IF you are forced to puncture a boot, just seal the micro hole with a dab of fresh SHOE GOO .....NOT RTV or any type of Silicone!!
A good grease gun has adjustable tip to firmly clamp down on any fitting so the grease ALL goes in to where it is supposed to go. USE that feature!
I add Zerk fittings where possible to new parts before installation. Use #3 Cobalt drill bit, and a 1/4 X 28 BOTTOMING tap and Teflon tape around the Zerk threads.
I install plastic Zerk fitting CAPS on all my installs. You can get ALL of the parts and tools on Amazon. Only the high quality Cobalt drill bits (came two in a container) cost anything of note. Rest of the items are dirt cheap.
Use your brain and skills and not a single chip of drilled metal will end up inside your new ball joints.
What would you suggest when the nut has turned into a blob of rust? Both my rear axle nuts have become one with the axels and are almost non existent.
I want to replace the hubs but I'm worried I may destroy the axels when separating from the hub.
Wow, that sounds like a tricky situation. I've never had them where I wasn't able to take them off with a socket. If you're replacing the hubs & wheel bearings, you can try heat (oxy acetylene) to break them loose. If there's not enough there to work with, the next step is probably to carefully cut into the nuts with a dremel (not cutting deep enough to hit the axle threads) and then try to break the remaining part of the nut off with a chisel or air hammer.