**F150 1997-'03 OEM Rear Slider Window: amzn.to/2GGy0Qb **Butyl Glass Sealant: amzn.to/2HjmnvO Check out some cool tools in Ozzstar's Amazon Store: www.amazon.com/shop/ozzstar. Thanks for stopping by the Ozzstar channel. Please Like Subscribe and Comment! Thanks -Glen
Great for learning to do it yourself, the gentlemen explains everything in a way that's easy to understand and even shows what not to do so you won't waste time or money. Thank you Ozzstar's Cars. Awesome
Great video. 2015 Platinum developed this issue at approximately the 6 year mark. Applied duct tape for an interim solution, but your video has prepped me for the better repair. We otherwise love the truck, but it's just inconceivable that Ford believes this to be an acceptable manufacturing technique... Thank you!
PRO TIP: Use some soapy water in a spray bottle to help with getting the knife to run through the sealant. Itll save you tons of elbow greese and can keep you from cracking the frame if you arent replacing the glass.
Thanks for taking the time to remove and autopsy the window after finding the leaks. I haven't gone to remove mine yet, but it's leaking in exactly the same spots, and I didn't know that the frame was prone to cracking. Guess I'll go with a solid window instead of a slider.
Great video taking it through all the steps. I watched it a few times, then repaired my leaking rear slider with no problems, just took time. The hardest part was breaking the old seal. I used a thin putty knife and a rubber mallet and worked my way around the window. Also appreciate the heads-up to look for cracks or flaws in the window casing. Thanks.
Thanks Icebike, glad it worked out well for you. Thanks for taking the time to watch and comment. I have a 2016 F150 manual rear slider that needs to be installed today, hopefully things will go well. Take it easy
Thanks for making this video, made doing this job on my 2000 f150 super cab a breeze. Lucky for me Chaos didn't show up at my place. Start to finish had it done in 2hrs. Thanks again.
Excellent video and information on replacement of the rear window 97-02 Ford F-150. I just completed my new rear window installation. Your video helped out tremendously :-) Thanks and take care!
hello there man. . .I'm just here to thank you for uploading this video. Damn thing was plenty useful when replacing my truck's rear window when I broke it while cutting my grass with the weed wacker. Went from a 1 piece glass to a slider taken out of a 2003 screw lariat that is the new updated version that does not break/leak. Best of all I got it for $80.
You got a great deal Ken. Glad the vid helped you out and thanks for commenting. Sucks the window broke but now you can move on to the next thing.... it's always like that. Take it easy - ozz
+treymetzger you are welcome. Yeah the original rear window design was a flaw, I guess thats why the oem replacement is designed completely different. Take care man
My back window leaks as well. It is a solid window so I'm going to assume the technique would be the same. Thanks for the vid. It definitely helps me. Glad I stumbled onto your channel, our trucks are pretty much the same. I have an 02 XL extended cab with a 4.6L and 2x4. I love it. I like to have such similar reference to watch.
Did replacing the seal fix the leak? I have an '02 extended cab and I noticed the top of the back seat is a little wet after a rain. I'm not able to find the leak though.
The rear sliding window on my 01 Lightning has started leaking and I’m about to tackle this issue. Thanks for the very instructional video and wish me luck!
Thorough. This helped a lot. Just bought a manual slider for my 2009. The attachment method looks the same, and the failure is the same - except the newer ones also have less well designed high stop light that can leak.
Super helpful man. I'm gonna need to do this soon. I'll be swapping to the stationary rear window though. Cleaner look and less obstruction in the mirror. Thanks for the knowledge
I enjoyed your video. I have a 99 ford.Mine started leaking in the front and back windows. Had somebody come out and fix it and it's still leaking by the handle in the front. The top 1.
good job the only thing i seen and not sure if you did was prime the area where you cut the tabs or any scratches if you don't prime the pinch weld you will get rust, which will get under the butal and rust which will then leak again.
+nwslimbubba i understand what you mean. the cutting wheel never broke through the paint. I'm that good..lol Good info for people to know, thanks for commenting
I have the leaking issue but my outside trim is loose as if it broke from one of the retainers. I was going to take the trim out but since u mentioned not to now I'm wondering what next lol. My truck is a 2003
sixtyfiveford good point Sixtyfive, the original leak was from the butyl failing. The secondary leak after new butyl was installed was from the cracked frame which most likely happened when the window was removed, even though I was extremely carefully 'pushing' it out. The old plastic fractured. A professional glass guy I talked to said its common for the original frames to crack when removed, they always replace them with the 'new and improved' OEM style. Take care
One question though, what you do when cutting the end of the butyl tape? Do you have to put something between the ends so it seals up or when you press it down onto the cab will it squeeze out a bit and seal?
It's a shame that after 9 years since you uploaded this video replacements are not available anymore, I guess I'll have to stick with my leaky window :(.
Hey Oz, thanks for the presentation. I have an '02 that just started leaking and was wondering if the tape method was better or worse than the 3M sealant way. I don't have the slider btw. I guess I'll go for the tape. Mine is leaking where yours was.
I know I’m late to party & nice video… Only one question since the new window was built different how did you run the butyl on new window ? Was it same as old window ??
Hi man, thanks for the video very informative, I was hoping you could answer a question for me. I have a three piece sliding window now but the seals are bad around the slide window so I am thinking of going to a solid 1 piece, about the mold that you talk about approx 10:15 secs into the video, do you know if that will accommodate a single glass? reason I ask is I found a used but in good shape rear glass but I think it is the glass only, not the mold too. I am hoping its a direct fit but I'm not sure and hope since you tore it apart you would know. thanks
What i would suggest to you Chris is do not install the original style frame especially a used one. Install the new updated design like I showed regardless if its one piece or a slider. Buy the unit all together and ready to go in. Save yourself a headache. If you decide to just swap the glass and not the frame you might end up pissed off with new leaks....just saying. That's my unprofessional advice lol Take it easy -Ozz
Paul i purchased the rear slider from a local glass shop. They sold it to me directly, no shipping fees. Check online as well. Thanks for watching and commenting
Right - do not touch that trim piece!!! $950 from Ford and it is a piece of crap with yet another piece of rubber trim around the edge that is exceptionally difficult to get back onto the edge of the super-shoddy plastic window trim. That '02 rear window assembly is an insane idea from Ford. Every '01 and '02 I have ever seen leaks at the back window. At the wrecking yard, every Ford pickup with that window design showed evidence of leaking at the rear window. There was no crack in the plastic frame on the glass either: In every case the butyl sealant strip had become brittle and crumbled at the top of the glass, never at the bottom, which suggests to me that the butyl is not heat and waterproof. My '68 F-250 windows never leaked. The rear window was held in with a one piece rubber gasket. That design worked flawlessly for fifty years going back to the fifties. Why did Ford change to this abominable design that requires about twenty bolts and seal washers, nuts, two large parts, etc.? That has to be many times more difficult to assemble on the line to boot. Ford gained nothing with this design except planned obsolescence.
hey hope u can reply soon , the right side of my sliding window broke , do i need to replace the whole thing ? or what can i do or should i do ??? thanks !
Hey Ozz the Reveal Molding around the slider can you just buy the gasket or do you have to buy the whole piece. I am repairing the seal it's dry rot out.
The gasket behind the fiberglass exterior frame was available seperately. it may be very difficult to find a new one, Ford stopped selling them long ago
I have an '02 F150 with a solid one piece rear window, no slider, that's leaking in the same place. Am I correct in assuming that the frame for the glass is the same, with the bolts and butyl sealer?
My 97 F150 leaks as well but I found your videos looking for ideas for something to plug the hole in the back glass passengers side after it was shattered last week. After watching your video, I'm thinking there is no way to just replace the broken glass, is it? I'll need the whole glass, won't I? Especially if I want to stop the leaking. Dagnabbit. I WAS saving for tires but Chaos came calling!!!
Moma Dog I believe it is possible to just replace one section of glass but the frames are usually leaking anyway so in that case a new unit would work best.
Your work is good. But here is an easy way to fix these things. On these center slide window designs the plastic window frame meets at the center window plastic assembly. Get a tube of 7 dollar black silicone and go around the light on top first (because these are an issue also then push silicone in the groove between the molding and the plastic window frame at the meet points at the left of the center slide window on top left and right side and these leaks are easily fixed from the outside. So actually it was never necessary to remove your window at all.
. The most common leaking prob is the butyl seal was not installed correctly at the factory, there should have been a recall. Silicone sealing the exterior frame is not a proper repair and only a temporary solution and doesn't look very attractive. The proper way to do this repair is replacing the window seal with new butyl. Most original installed rear slider windows will crack the frame when removed and needs to be replaced with the NEW oem design. If you like the silicone caulk job, go for it.
+Ozzstar My 02 ford crew cab outer job looks good. And your new plastic frame assembly will crack eventually and here is why. When you tighten the inner nuts your are tightening the plastic frame to a surface that is not STRAIGHT, so this causes stress point of 5 thousands are more at the bolt on points. Some things need modification. With the molding removed a person should apply thick silicone around the OUTER area of the plastic window rim, then reinstall the molding and only tighten the inner cab nuts to hand tighten, then these would never leak again. If you think like a machinist you can fix this problem. Now the instructions I gave in my first comment are sealing with the molding still on the vehicle and is based on the rubber between the cab metal and the molding being sealed. But anytime you bolt hard plastic to a surface with 10k indifferences it will crack the plastic or lift the sealing. Here is another way to fix this problem. I know a Hispanic man at a parts store that has a 98 extended cab f150. He took rubber black electrical wire and pushed into the groove between the molding and window trim on the outside and it sealed his leaking totally and also looks very uniform. Water must come from the OUTSIDE to leak on the inside which means closing the door to the water at its source
does anyone know where i can get the entire back trim that goes around the rear window ( black trim with the middle brake lense ) cant find them for the life of me online.
Talk about a boo boo 😢 I got the rear window and the molding out , but when I was putting them back in I made the BIG mistake of putting the window back in first. 😱 I saw that u took ur window out again, how did u do that ? That gunk is sticky and stringy; It gets stuck on the putty knife and I got no were. If that turns out to be a no can do, I also saw when u got ur new window it didn't have those groves for the molding on the top. So u cut the tabs on the molding off. U think I can do that too and that the screws that tighten down the molding will be enough? I would appreciate ur input 😉 🙋
The butyl has to be removed. Try using big clumps of it. Push it hard onto the butyl that is stuck to the frame and pull hard. It should lift the butyl off the metal cab flange. Its a battle. Reinstall with new butyl.
🙋I under stand about using the butyl to help pull the butyl off, but the window is still in ! I stick the putty knife in, pull it out with a mass of sticky, stringy gunk. The butyl is way to soft !!!! R u sure I can't just cut those tabs off of the molding that would go into the frame of the window ?
I want to thank u for all ur help 😀 ur video had some parts that the others didn't bring out. It made the task less stressing. I finely got my truck rear window ! Praise the Lord !! I used Pam on the putty knife and it went in and came out clean 🤗 took no time at all 😉 Have a blessed day 🙋
I figured that I would mention that when the '01-'03 supercrews leak it is often in the seam where the door frame is attached to the roof. The seam filler the factory used dries out over time and develops cracks. The only way to fix it is to dig out the old filler and install fresh. But note you will have to have the area repainted.
Hm it seems like this model f150 seems to have problems with the back windows for example the water leaks trough the back window or back roof my father had the same problem
@@ozzstars_cars ok. I get it. I just wasnt sure if you knew the super glue baking soda trick to strengthen and fill plastic pieces. Thanks for the content it is extremly helpful.
I replaced my slider with a new (non slider) window assy. Frame on my slider was cracked. Glass comes with frame bonded to it. The new window has developed cracks in plastic frame. If i do this again i will coat the entire top surface of plastic frame with sealer (like liquid RTV) before i install window. I would also use the 3M Butyl caulk tube instead of rolled Butyl. Poor design.
**F150 1997-'03 OEM Rear Slider Window: amzn.to/2GGy0Qb
**Butyl Glass Sealant: amzn.to/2HjmnvO
Check out some cool tools in Ozzstar's Amazon Store: www.amazon.com/shop/ozzstar. Thanks for stopping by the Ozzstar channel. Please Like Subscribe and Comment! Thanks -Glen
Great for learning to do it yourself, the gentlemen explains everything in a way that's easy to understand and even shows what not to do so you won't waste time or money. Thank you Ozzstar's Cars. Awesome
Glad to help MG. Thanks for the comment! -Glen
Great video. 2015 Platinum developed this issue at approximately the 6 year mark. Applied duct tape for an interim solution, but your video has prepped me for the better repair. We otherwise love the truck, but it's just inconceivable that Ford believes this to be an acceptable manufacturing technique... Thank you!
Yeah it's a shame that leaks occur way to soon and often. Thanks for your comment VS.
I did this on my 2003 f150 yesterday. Your video helped me a lot so THANKS!
I want a son so bad. I can do all this cool dad stuff with
Thank you so much!! I really appreciate your honesty and your humor.
Thanks Bill. 👍
PRO TIP: Use some soapy water in a spray bottle to help with getting the knife to run through the sealant. Itll save you tons of elbow greese and can keep you from cracking the frame if you arent replacing the glass.
Anything that helps make the job easier.👍
Thanks for taking the time to remove and autopsy the window after finding the leaks. I haven't gone to remove mine yet, but it's leaking in exactly the same spots, and I didn't know that the frame was prone to cracking. Guess I'll go with a solid window instead of a slider.
The solid window is less money but the new and improved design slider frame works great.
Great video taking it through all the steps. I watched it a few times, then repaired my leaking rear slider with no problems, just took time. The hardest part was breaking the old seal. I used a thin putty knife and a rubber mallet and worked my way around the window. Also appreciate the heads-up to look for cracks or flaws in the window casing. Thanks.
Thanks Icebike, glad it worked out well for you. Thanks for taking the time to watch and comment. I have a 2016 F150 manual rear slider that needs to be installed today, hopefully things will go well. Take it easy
Thanks for making this video, made doing this job on my 2000 f150 super cab a breeze. Lucky for me Chaos didn't show up at my place. Start to finish had it done in 2hrs. Thanks again.
Nice. Your lucky when Chaos doesn't show up! Take it easy -Glen
Excellent video and information on replacement of the rear window 97-02 Ford F-150. I just completed my new rear window installation. Your video helped out tremendously :-) Thanks and take care!
Thanks for your comment Charles!
hello there man. . .I'm just here to thank you for uploading this video. Damn thing was plenty useful when replacing my truck's rear window when I broke it while cutting my grass with the weed wacker. Went from a 1 piece glass to a slider taken out of a 2003 screw lariat that is the new updated version that does not break/leak. Best of all I got it for $80.
You got a great deal Ken. Glad the vid helped you out and thanks for commenting. Sucks the window broke but now you can move on to the next thing.... it's always like that. Take it easy - ozz
Thanks for the video!
You're welcome!
Great tutorial bro never did one broke my bosses back window with a 2x4 and did it all from watching your video and it came out great thanks !
Glad it worked out for you Chris, thanks for watching!
Thanks for the video . I saved severe time n dough. You made it look easy .
Good to hear the video helped you out.
Thanks a lot for this video! I have a 2000 model F-150. Such a common problem they should recall it IMO.
+treymetzger you are welcome. Yeah the original rear window design was a flaw, I guess thats why the oem replacement is designed completely different. Take care man
My back window leaks as well. It is a solid window so I'm going to assume the technique would be the same. Thanks for the vid. It definitely helps me. Glad I stumbled onto your channel, our trucks are pretty much the same. I have an 02 XL extended cab with a 4.6L and 2x4. I love it. I like to have such similar reference to watch.
Yes the '97-'02 models are basically the same. Great trucks. Sometimes I prefer my '97 over my '16 F150. Thanks Kelly for watching and subscribing
Did replacing the seal fix the leak? I have an '02 extended cab and I noticed the top of the back seat is a little wet after a rain. I'm not able to find the leak though.
The rear sliding window on my 01 Lightning has started leaking and I’m about to tackle this issue. Thanks for the very instructional video and wish me luck!
Good luck.
I have a 01 lighting too , mine is leaking. Was your frame cracked, or was it just the seal?
@@gkartdude6875 watch the entire video. Bad seal, frame cracked on removal.
@@ozzstars_cars yea I did, the question was for "Nothin2it".
Thorough. This helped a lot. Just bought a manual slider for my 2009. The attachment method looks the same, and the failure is the same - except the newer ones also have less well designed high stop light that can leak.
Glad the vid helped you out!
Super helpful man. I'm gonna need to do this soon. I'll be swapping to the stationary rear window though. Cleaner look and less obstruction in the mirror. Thanks for the knowledge
Glad the video was helpful to you Nemui.
Thanks man, u just saved me from driving it straight to junk yard 😂😂👍
👍
Thanks for taking the time to make this video.
I have the same truck and my back window is leaking, new sub! Like the videos. 👍🏻
Thanks!
I enjoyed your video. I have a 99 ford.Mine started leaking in the front and back windows. Had somebody come out and fix it and it's still leaking by the handle in the front. The top 1.
Remove the windshield for a proper fix. Make sure the A pillar frame is not rusted all the way through
good job the only thing i seen and not sure if you did was prime the area where you cut the tabs or any scratches if you don't prime the pinch weld you will get rust, which will get under the butal and rust which will then leak again.
+nwslimbubba i understand what you mean. the cutting wheel never broke through the paint. I'm that good..lol Good info for people to know, thanks for commenting
Thanks for posting this vid...it will definitely help when I get around to fixing my leaking ford window. Thumbs up!
+dihskursiv thank you and good luck with the repair
Thank you a ton for the video, I'm going to do mine next week after watching this!
You are welcome Justin, and good luck with the job
Thanks for takin the time!
No problem, you're welcome Scott.
I have the leaking issue but my outside trim is loose as if it broke from one of the retainers. I was going to take the trim out but since u mentioned not to now I'm wondering what next lol. My truck is a 2003
Don't know, hard to impossible to find a replacement.
Amazing video man! Appreciate it!
Thanks!
I knew they have a leaking problem, but I didn't know about the frame splitting causing this.
sixtyfiveford good point Sixtyfive, the original leak was from the butyl failing. The secondary leak after new butyl was installed was from the cracked frame which most likely happened when the window was removed, even though I was extremely carefully 'pushing' it out. The old plastic fractured. A professional glass guy I talked to said its common for the original frames to crack when removed, they always replace them with the 'new and improved' OEM style. Take care
One question though, what you do when cutting the end of the butyl tape? Do you have to put something between the ends so it seals up or when you press it down onto the cab will it squeeze out a bit and seal?
Yes it will squeeze together and seal.
It's a shame that after 9 years since you uploaded this video replacements are not available anymore, I guess I'll have to stick with my leaky window :(.
The 5 in 1 tool is good for this job, but I sharpened it and also sharpened the pointy side. That lets you push through the seal easier.
The tool sure is handy!
Hey Oz, thanks for the presentation. I have an '02 that just started leaking and was wondering if the tape method was better or worse than the 3M sealant way. I don't have the slider btw. I guess I'll go for the tape. Mine is leaking where yours was.
I use the butyl rope which is factory correct. It is super sticky and seals well. Good luck with the repair and thanks for the comment
i have replace the Butyl tape and now need to fix the molding before reinstalling the slider
Leave the paper on the on the butyl tape as your applying, press down on the tape with the paper still on
I know I’m late to party & nice video…
Only one question since the new window was built different how did you run the butyl on new window ? Was it same as old window ??
The butyl goes on the same way, there is a guide line molded into the plastic frame to guide you.
Ty for the help bud.
Would you recommend using 3M Windo-Weld Fast Urethane Epoxy Compound?
What vehicle are you working on?
@@ozzstars_cars f150 2000
@@0beydavid rear window butyl tape. Link in the description.
Great job and nice video!
Thank you Sir!
Hi man, thanks for the video very informative, I was hoping you could answer a question for me. I have a three piece sliding window now but the seals are bad around the slide window so I am thinking of going to a solid 1 piece, about the mold that you talk about approx 10:15 secs into the video, do you know if that will accommodate a single glass? reason I ask is I found a used but in good shape rear glass but I think it is the glass only, not the mold too. I am hoping its a direct fit but I'm not sure and hope since you tore it apart you would know. thanks
What i would suggest to you Chris is do not install the original style frame especially a used one. Install the new updated design like I showed regardless if its one piece or a slider. Buy the unit all together and ready to go in. Save yourself a headache. If you decide to just swap the glass and not the frame you might end up pissed off with new leaks....just saying. That's my unprofessional advice lol Take it easy -Ozz
Ozzstar Mine has been leaking for years too I want to tackle this job, was wondering where did you find the glass with the new frame design?
Paul i purchased the rear slider from a local glass shop. They sold it to me directly, no shipping fees. Check online as well. Thanks for watching and commenting
GRACIAS POR COMPARTIR ESTE INTERESANTE VIDEO .
Right - do not touch that trim piece!!!
$950 from Ford and it is a piece of crap with yet another piece of rubber trim around the edge that is exceptionally difficult to get back onto the edge of the super-shoddy plastic window trim. That '02 rear window assembly is an insane idea from Ford. Every '01 and '02 I have ever seen leaks at the back window. At the wrecking yard, every Ford pickup with that window design showed evidence of leaking at the rear window. There was no crack in the plastic frame on the glass either: In every case the butyl sealant strip had become brittle and crumbled at the top of the glass, never at the bottom, which suggests to me that the butyl is not heat and waterproof.
My '68 F-250 windows never leaked. The rear window was held in with a one piece rubber gasket. That design worked flawlessly for fifty years going back to the fifties. Why did Ford change to this abominable design that requires about twenty bolts and seal washers, nuts, two large parts, etc.? That has to be many times more difficult to assemble on the line to boot. Ford gained nothing with this design except planned obsolescence.
How do you do the plastic trim around the rear window I have a leak there
That's a trim piece, there is no leak there.
@@ozzstars_cars it's on the top side between the cab and the trim when I got the truck it had cillacone around the top and down halfway on both sides
Thanks for doing all the hard work and what to look for. I subscribe i know ill be having more problems and hope you will have the solution.
+chad Kreider thanks for subscribing
great video
Thanks, glad you liked it Jordan.
I was able to pull a window from a junk yard and install. Cheap and easy. Thanks
hey hope u can reply soon , the right side of my sliding window broke , do i need to replace the whole thing ? or what can i do or should i do ??? thanks !
Hey Ozz the Reveal Molding around the slider can you just buy the gasket or do you have to buy the whole piece. I am repairing the seal it's dry rot out.
The gasket behind the fiberglass exterior frame was available seperately. it may be very difficult to find a new one, Ford stopped selling them long ago
Did you ever think about . The brake light leaking . Been it is higher above the class getting you headliner wet .
No because that's not where the water was entering the cabin.
I have an '02 F150 with a solid one piece rear window, no slider, that's leaking in the same place. Am I correct in assuming that the frame for the glass is the same, with the bolts and butyl sealer?
The frame size is the same, slider or non slider.
I have a 1999 Ford f 150 back glass is fine but the plastic frame is starting to crack. Probably gonna have to replace any ideas on that?
Almost impossible to find new.
My 97 F150 leaks as well but I found your videos looking for ideas for something to plug the hole in the back glass passengers side after it was shattered last week. After watching your video, I'm thinking there is no way to just replace the broken glass, is it? I'll need the whole glass, won't I? Especially if I want to stop the leaking. Dagnabbit. I WAS saving for tires but Chaos came calling!!!
Moma Dog I believe it is possible to just replace one section of glass but the frames are usually leaking anyway so in that case a new unit would work best.
"I don't leave out details". Like how to safely pull the headliner out.
@broeheemed32 I am going to give you a full refund bro.
JB Weld would have fixed those cracks. I got same problem with my 2002 F150.
Disculpe qe presio tendra un vidrio trasero de ford f150 modelo 2002 saluds le agradesco
Gracias por tu comentario
Your work is good. But here is an easy way to fix these things. On these center slide window designs the plastic window frame meets at the center window plastic assembly. Get a tube of 7 dollar black silicone and go around the light on top first (because these are an issue also then push silicone in the groove between the molding and the plastic window frame at the meet points at the left of the center slide window on top left and right side and these leaks are easily fixed from the outside. So actually it was never necessary to remove your window at all.
. The most common leaking prob is the butyl seal was not installed correctly at the factory, there should have been a recall. Silicone sealing the exterior frame is not a proper repair and only a temporary solution and doesn't look very attractive. The proper way to do this repair is replacing the window seal with new butyl. Most original installed rear slider windows will crack the frame when removed and needs to be replaced with the NEW oem design. If you like the silicone caulk job, go for it.
+Ozzstar My 02 ford crew cab outer job looks good. And your new plastic frame assembly will crack eventually and here is why. When you tighten the inner nuts your are tightening the plastic frame to a surface that is not STRAIGHT, so this causes stress point of 5 thousands are more at the bolt on points. Some things need modification. With the molding removed a person should apply thick silicone around the OUTER area of the plastic window rim, then reinstall the molding and only tighten the inner cab nuts to hand tighten, then these would never leak again. If you think like a machinist you can fix this problem. Now the instructions I gave in my first comment are sealing with the molding still on the vehicle and is based on the rubber between the cab metal and the molding being sealed. But anytime you bolt hard plastic to a surface with 10k indifferences it will crack the plastic or lift the sealing. Here is another way to fix this problem. I know a Hispanic man at a parts store that has a 98 extended cab f150. He took rubber black electrical wire and pushed into the groove between the molding and window trim on the outside and it sealed his leaking totally and also looks very uniform. Water must come from the OUTSIDE to leak on the inside which means closing the door to the water at its source
Where can I find the outer plastic trim and is it butel underneath or is it a rubber seal and where can I find that
the outer plastic ring and seal have been produced for years. online and a junkyard will be your best, also auto glass shops.
+Ozzstar what do I look up...I don't know what to call it
your boys are funny. cool video
One is mine the other is his friend, great kids.... 21 🤭
does anyone know where i can get the entire back trim that goes around the rear window ( black trim with the middle brake lense )
cant find them for the life of me online.
Ford discountinued that plastic window frame trim years ago. Used ones are very rear to find that arent cracked or damaged. Good luck with the search
Crap! I needed those tabs... After the trash man came 🤣
I bet....not. lol
Ozzstar 🤣
You could have easily fixed that crack and gap with silicone or epoxy and or plastic welding. $10 insead of 300 and a week wait.
If only that was true. That kind of hack repair might have lasted a few days if I was lucky.
Those mechanics in Pakistan would not agree.@@ozzstars_cars
Talk about a boo boo 😢 I got the rear window and the molding out , but when I was putting them back in I made the BIG mistake of putting the window back in first. 😱 I saw that u took ur window out again, how did u do that ? That gunk is sticky and stringy; It gets stuck on the putty knife and I got no were.
If that turns out to be a no can do, I also saw when u got ur new window it didn't have those groves for the molding on the top. So u cut the tabs on the molding off. U think I can do that too and that the screws that tighten down the molding will be enough? I would appreciate ur input 😉 🙋
The butyl has to be removed. Try using big clumps of it. Push it hard onto the butyl that is stuck to the frame and pull hard. It should lift the butyl off the metal cab flange. Its a battle. Reinstall with new butyl.
🙋I under stand about using the butyl to help pull the butyl off, but the window is still in ! I stick the putty knife in, pull it out with a mass of sticky, stringy gunk. The butyl is way to soft !!!! R u sure I can't just cut those tabs off of the molding that would go into the frame of the window ?
I want to thank u for all ur help 😀 ur video had some parts that the others didn't bring out. It made the task less stressing. I finely got my truck rear window ! Praise the Lord !! I used Pam on the putty knife and it went in and came out clean 🤗 took no time at all 😉 Have a blessed day 🙋
I got a 2001 f150 with the rear slider and want to put a normal window back there is it the same process
What is a normal window?
A Glass Stationary one that doesn’t open
@@murkinmurdock7985 a stationary unit will work fine and they are usually less cost.
Just Curious. Been looking for a good Ford 2003 F150 OEM parts site. Have you found a good site?
Tasca
Tasca sells OEM parts
Chaos thrives in a world of dimness.
Sure does.
The heat gun make this easy
Good idea.
How's this holding up? Please advise. Mines doing the same
Hi, not a drop of water has got into the cab after the new slider window replacement.
I figured that I would mention that when the '01-'03 supercrews leak it is often in the seam where the door frame is attached to the roof. The seam filler the factory used dries out over time and develops cracks. The only way to fix it is to dig out the old filler and install fresh. But note you will have to have the area repainted.
Hm it seems like this model f150 seems to have problems with the back windows for example the water leaks trough the back window or back roof my father had the same problem
Yeah Vapid they all leaked!
Gracias me sirvió de mucho para hacerlo
De nada
Hey Oz, is there anything you won't tackle?
hasbeengood nope LOL. The trick is keeping Chaos from beating me at my game. Take it easy Has!
I just broke the right hand panel on the back of a '02 f150, can I just replace one side???
Do you have the OEM original design or the new improved updated design? I still have the slider glass that was removed :-)
Pretty sure it's original, how can I be sure?
+Justin Beeks watch this entire video. Starts with removal/replace of the original and then install a 'new' oem updated.
thank you
Hey man, where did you order your window from?
Purchased at a local auto glass shop. OEM slider it's made for Ford by Carlite.
Where did you order the glass from?
got the glass from a local auto glass repair shop, $300 + 15 for the butyl. they sell them online also, i didnt have time to wait on shipping
I'm a painting contractor in your area and I'd like to paint the interior of your garage. Maybe we could barter some auto work for painting?
That sucks... For what it's worth, that is how my life usually goes.
Superglue and baking soda would have fixed the plastic crack im thinking
Not a chance. That frame is junk.
@@ozzstars_cars ok. I get it. I just wasnt sure if you knew the super glue baking soda trick to strengthen and fill plastic pieces. Thanks for the content it is extremly helpful.
8:40 - 8:52
21
What are the torque specs for the nuts?
The old slightly snug ft lbs. 🤣 Sorry i don't have a factory spec. No ugga duggas
@@ozzstars_cars so a little tighter than finger tight? Lol
@@RetiredMovieCollector when you remove the nuts you will get a fell for the amount, finger tight won't get a good seal
nice ravens sweater the young is wearing....lol
Yes he's a Baltimore fan. Thanks for watching
Have a 98 stepside that color ..
Portofino Blue 👍
freakin' chaos. i have no idea what 21 is lol
***** i know it, neither do I! lol Kids these days.......
I guess u didn't know u were suppose to put the ends of butyl together at bottom of window. Good luck with your next leak
It's been 2 1/2 years and there hasn't been one leak but thanks for being concerned.
Superglue! A little cyanoacrylate could probably fill those cracks in the plastic
I guess you could but it won't last long and in the long run will need to be pulled out and done correctly.
I replaced my slider with a new (non slider) window assy. Frame on my slider was cracked. Glass comes with frame bonded to it. The new window has developed cracks in plastic frame. If i do this again i will coat the entire top surface of plastic frame with sealer (like liquid RTV) before i install window. I would also use the 3M Butyl caulk tube instead of rolled Butyl. Poor design.
So how much of that cat's hair ended up in the beautle lol
Old Louie didn't shed too much but hes in cat heaven now.
daniel erker that’s actually an upgrade. Like fiber reinforced body filler🤣🤣
21!
Ravens national
Cap what is funny
Mines leaking in the same place and you know who was laughing at me ?
Chaos! That dude is always causing trouble! Hope you get that leak fixed soon - Ozz