easiest way to explain cvt tunning on the web. 1 extra gram on the rollers will give the engine 350-450 lower rpms at same speed (wich helps on fuel economy as well as durability. not all us us are racers. also try a gear set to combine and have better cruising speed
Thank you. Those are the type of comments that rock. Lamens terms for beginners. I want too high speed for cruising, and got the 14/37 gears for my stock 150cc. I just got a performance clutch with red 2000 rpm springs. What rollers would be best in your experience? By placing the new gear set for top speed, i would like to try the best to not loose to much torque at moving from a stop, as I do have some hills around me where i live. Thanks
@@zanuarrosyidi4034 no need to change the stock contra spring. It will shift rapidly from low to higher gear ratio. Tuning the rollers can prevent or compensate this thus no need to change the the contra spring. In addition, clutch springs must be stock or even softer than stock for best fuel economy because it does not need higher rpm to engage.
Very important tip to check belt ride height with marker pen for the fastest top speed. Removing the shim between the pulley or a shorter sleeve will make it ride higher. For a faster start many will install a stronger clutch spring to engage at a higher RPM for more power but fail to check if the varistor is still in low gear. You just might be starting off in high gear.
@@gsrsam For the belt to ride higher on the variator for more top speed it needs to squeeze the belt more. Removing the shim located between the outer pulley and variator will make it ride higher. If you don't have one there you could get a shorter bushing to make the pulley squeeze closer together. I wouldn't recommend this because it will generate more heat on the rear pulley because of the less surface area created when the belt is pulled in deeper on the rear pulley. Also if you got a stronger center spring the big one in the middle of the rear pulley the heat will be too much and belt will fail prematurely. Going to a bigger belt and keeping the stock weakest center spring will reduce the heat. If you have stronger clutch springs then the variator weights needs to be lighter to keep it in low gear until the clutch engages at the higher RPM. It's all a balancing act.
@@Espinete87 If you want a higher top speed then removing the inner shim between the front pulley will help. If you need the acceleration on the top end then leave the shim in or you could add more which will keep it in a lower gear ratio but will reduce the top speed.
I’m not the person your asking this question, but I had years ago a Baotian GY6 50 cc modified with Naraku 90 cc cylinder, piston, ported big valve Naraku cylinderhead, 24 mm PVK carb, Uni Filter airfilter, different intake manifold, intake riser, performance camshaft, Leo Vince exhaust, Naraku variator, Malossi kevlar belt, Naraku Sport clutch, Naraku clutch bell and white clutch spring. As stock it was very slow but after all these mods without any secondary gear changes (transmission gears) top speed was 105 km/h measured with motorcycle reliable speedometer.
@@jannep6772 was the pwk carb easy to setup? I upgraded a kymco vp50 to 52mm 90cc, and its not running faster then 65km/h, olso it wont run right with a 24mm cvk carb somehow
@@KooolaBe Hi. Years ago in that 90 cc build I used PVK 24 carb and not flat slide PWK 24 carb. Have you got big valve head and different camshaft? Does your exhaust system breath/flow enough? I would start from those things and also modify variator etc. You can use flatslide PWK carb and it flows air much better than PVK type as it doesn’t have throttle butterfly and there is no hassle with the vacuum operating throttle slide. Just make sure you get a 4-stroke type PWK (I use in my 170 cc 30 mm PWK Chinese copy carb). I think 24 mm PWK is big enough for 90 cc as with PWK you eliminate that flow restricting throttle butterfly and flow path through PWK flat slide when throttle is fully open is very smooth. But you have to change your throttle cable to fit PWK style carb as throttle cable carb end has to be much smaller than that big end in stock PVK carbs. One other option for carb is Mikuni TM24-9 or TM24-8001 flat slide, but these are actually 2 stroke carbs and many times a bit tricky to get jetted well without changing also other parts than only main jets. I hope you got your questions answered. It’s maybe easiest and cheapest to use PWK style carb and just change your throttle cable. With Mikuni TM style you also have to change to similar different style throttle cable.
@@jannep6772 i have a t2 ncy cam, a 52mm head, ive tried naraku vario but it performs worse then stock one, what main jet where u using with the 24mm vaccuum carb? As i dont have a flat side carb (i misread ur first previous post) my build atm rode better with the inlet restriction not removed and a 88 jet, now thr inlet is derestricted and using 96 jet, but it has less power then with the restriction in place 😴
@@KooolaBe That is really strange why it doesn’t perform better if you have already big valve head and different camshaft. My 90 cc build was done so many years ago that it’s really hard to remember. Must be something in the 90-102 range? I had stock secondary gears, Malossi Kevlar belt, Naraku Sport/Race clutch and clutch bell, white +1000 rpm? torque spring, Naraku big valve well ported cylinderhead, Naraku sport camshaft, Naraku aluminium intake riser plate, Naraku 24 mm PVK carb with that carburetors stock jets if I remember correctly (but I can also remember that I bought 10 pcs. main jets for it), Uni Filter air filter, Naraku variator but I can’t remember what roller weights I ran in it, Leo Vince nice well flowing exhaust, Naraku CDI, coil and NGK (maybe Iridium?) spark plug. Cylinderhead was in flow bench before and after porting. Flow increased significantly and I had a flow bench document back then, but when I sold that scooter the new owner got that document with it. New owner was very happy with the performance by the way... 😉 I can still remember when my cylinderhead porter said that the head was not very well designed, but somehow he managed to improve it’s flow at the lifts these engines cams lift those valves = at low lifts. He also modified both valves to gain flow. Like 30 degree cut to intake valve upper area next to seat contact area etc.
Hi!...and thanks for all your advice and sharing your (considerable) knowledge. I'm going on a long trip next year (6000 miles), and would like to know if there is anything I can do to improve fuel economy, especially in the clutch/variator area?
I have a hammerhead gts 150 and was wondering which weight for the rollers would be best for max torque as well as the fastest top speed. Anyone have a good setup for faster speeds without losing too much torque?
What would cause drr 90 cc quad to rev like crazy but not shift. It’s like riding in 1st or 2nd gear if lucky. Motor runs great there is no slipping. I marked variatir to check travel of belt and looks to be traveling all the way. Yet I don’t see how it can be traveling all the way up cause it’s not shift or changing ratio. It just takes off very well then tops out immediately Erving to the moon about 15 20 mph. I bought tach and will be taking a closer look at it with tach. Gonna put on stand and try running it on stand. Thanks for very imformative videos.
Hi guy. My supplier gives me a 25KGF spring. But some other vendors describe the spring information with an rpm value. How do I know how many rpm is 25KGF equivalent. Please help me
Hello everyone! Does anyone know, the difference in variators design, betwin 2 stroke and 4 stroke transmission? I have 180cc 2st Hexagone, and it drives me crazy, cos it is taking off slow, like in 2cond gear,then its fast. I did put shims to make the belt be placed lower on the variator and drive plate, so it can touch the boss shaft (because from the factory, the belt rides almost 1 cm higher), and the yake off improve amazing,but then it feels like I'm out of demultiplication( same like just having 4gears not6). Incant find a solution. Because i cant get dr pulley rollers anymore on the market, that would have kind of solve the problems.
Hi there thank u for the informative video! I was wondering if you have heard of 2 angle on the variation! And how does that work! I am considering modifying my cvt! Would like to know more and how it would effect my performance!
Thanks! Like dual radius roller ways kinda? I'd say how well it works depends on how linear the contra spring action is, and if it's designed with the increasing inertia of the rollers as they move outwards in mind.
Hi. This is concerning a utv crew with dump bed. It's very heavy I know but I want it to grab at a lower RPM.....it will run up to 53mph with just me in it but I don't care about speed. I use around the house for pulling a small trailer and trail riding. What can I do to the primary or secondary to give me faster take off without running 15mph and 3800-4000 rpm? This will also make it more comfortable to ride in yard because it will be quieter while running 7-18mph. Thanks
I have a question... ok so I am doing my cvt system on my yamaha zuma 125... what is the best slider weight mix I can use to balance it out.... I want speed!
was reffering to super lube silicone base btw the one that we use for brake slider pins since my torque drive has rubber o-ring on it and silicone base is safe on rubbers right, but i am not quite sure how will it hold on our torque drive
Sorry I'm not very clear. I mean if you put rollers with quite a difference in weight it MIGHT be worse than using rollers of the same weight or with alight difference. ...ok now I'm giving a wrong example but when I got my used honda dio it had a weirdo acceleration...once i opened up the transmission I found out the previous owner used just 3 rollers! And those 3 pins (I don't know the proper term) that slide up and down the variator were completely consumed...also the part of the variator where those slides was heavily consumed....this kind of convinced me that using rollers with big difference in weight might let the rollers works 3 by 3 and this will give them a faster degradation.Nevertheless...im quite theoretical since I didn't have chance to try that many combos 😥
Hi , I feel my scooter a litle bit slow, starting I mean, I taked off the variator cover and discovered that the belt goes down into the pulley inmediatli after I give a litle bit of gas, even before the scooter starts moving, this way the lowest gear it is wasted..... should I increase the contra spring force?.. Thanks for your time...
you want to find a balance, for peroformance basically you want to use the whole variator range while keepingit in lower "gear" as much as possible for more torque. a little lighter than stock is good to increase your acceleration a bit by making the variator stay in low "gear" longer, but if you go too light it will not shift to the highest "gear" making you lose top speed figure out what size rollers your scoot uses, get a roller weight tuning kit with lots of weights, and also google the sharpie variator method to help visualize your belt travel
ok so i have a 2500 rpm contra spring in my scooter but the clutch springs(the little ones on the pad are 1500 rpm ) will that effect the top end speed at all or should put the stock springs back in it cause it feels as iff the belt is slipping and i cant even think of why
Just put a yuminashi variator on my 2022 Honda ADV 150. It came with 12g rollers their website recommended 13g for heavier riders. I am 250lbs. I have tried all three rollers and rollers combo 6x12g, 6x13g, and 3x12g with 3x13g. I have better acceleration but no gain on top end (still 65MPH ). I am thinking of putting in a yellow malossi contra spring. Do you have any recommendations I want the best of both worlds acceleration and top speed
There is nothing you can do. There is simply no power left at those speeds. Remember, you don´t gain any power by putting in tuning parts, you´re just shifting it around. The best way would either be to lose some weight yourself (most of us should) or get a bigger bike.
My 2009 sh150i runs good until 90km/h, tried stock new 12.25gr rollers, as dr pulley 11gr sliders, BUT, my top speed is very low, I can't even pass 100km/h Is from worn stock variator (can't move the belt in the high area?), Is from the hard contra spring?(i doubt that the ex owner ever changed the original) Can you help me with that?
Hello guys! I have a honda SH 125i. I replaced the variator with a new malossi multivar 2000 I've noticed that the speed dropped down but i can hear the the motor is running full power but not mutch with the speed. I need your help thanks
hello i enjoyed your video has helpful info i have a qmb139 50cc scooter that has been upgraded to 80cc big bore kit i am experincing slow top speed it will only go 30mph even before the kit was installed top speed was slower i have upgraded jets in the carb put performance variator on with 6.5g rollers a pod filter a performance exhaust and still the same results i even switched rollers back to 8.5g at first i put all in then i took 3 out and seems no matter what i do i cant get past 30mph any help would be great as i am beyond stumped right now i am at sea level if that helps any thanks
I think that's not what the vlog says. Lighter roller will shift at higher rpm so you need to throttle more to have acceleration unlike heavy roller that will shift at low rpm that means in only a small movement of the throttle. I thinks it's in more of fuel efficiency.
@@vanpore6326 lighter roller boost acceleration coz it need higer rpm to drive. and at higher rpm it seem reducing roller weight from standart will cut the centrifugal force so pulley cant reach maximum speed.
God no! Unless you like grease being flung everywhere and all over everything. If you did grease it please do tell the story here about the travesty that ensued. 😂
There is one important thing when you place you rollers. Their sides are not the same. One side is thick, but the other side is thin. When variator works, it rotates to the left, but the force pushes rollers to the right side. You need to position the rollers so that the thinner side goes to the left. I hope I helped you, this is very important and make sure you did this right. Best regards! :)
@@jenny-masterchef You have to adjust them so the thicker side is more pressurized. But if you put them wrong, your scooter won't go fast and iit will become slow. And that's why you have to pay attention on that.
Good tips. I like your test belt ideal. If I might expand on your idea.... You could use contact-cement velcro strips on the adjustment, so that the belt would not have a proud(wide) edge that would interfere with sheaves (pulley) while judging length. You still aren't going anywhere with it, but it might be able to cycle a few times, as long as the rear wheel is up. Perhaps also, you could add measured white lines for calibration.
Hi man, have a 70cc stage6 scoot set up with stage6 vario 5g sliders, 1500rpm contra, tecnigas exhaust. I have recently changed my clutch to a performance clutch which comes with a contra spring slider ring and clutch spring pre set for 70cc cylinders. Runs pretty fast and smooth on flat and will easily do 100kph. However, suddenly noticed a change with uphill performance as it slowy loses power like from 50 down to 25kph and couldn't regain that power or acceleration. It runs fine uphill from a stop cruising at 50-60kph with stock clutch but not with the performance clutch and the contra slider on it. The contra spring slider ring seems to add pre load tension and with this, should i get a lighter slider/roller with it? The pre-load tension also seems to put the belt a few mm lower on the rear pulley which i know will affect takeoff performance.
@@2STROKESTUFFING HEY YE ALL BITCHZ NOW TELL ME KNOW WHICH SPRING MAKE MY SCOOTA RUN FASTER 2000RPM OR HIGHER THE NUMBER LIKE 5000RPM ??? ALSO WHICH ONE IS SOFTER ?????
Just to resurrect a fossil, like Alex said a spring just stiff enough to not slip is best. Trick I found here is to cut one of those china dio springs down. I wanted light weights, but they could not overcome the spring force & variate fully until I used a weaker spring.
Hi, great video, explains everything so perfectlty. I have a question to you. I just changed the rollers on my gilera ST 200 to a lighter set. Now when I ride is all good and as expected RPM is higher, but when I brake I always get tha klick-klack-klick-klack sound just before I stop. Did you experience something like this before? I already try to adjust the clutch to make springs softer, but no improvements. Thank you in advance.
My scooter 70cc 2stroke pulls hard af in low hear, but when it goes into 2nd it doesnt pull very good, also uphill it stays in high gear untill i get to like 10mph, i have stiffest contra spring and 4.5g rollers, new belt, and a new clutch, with stiff springs....what should i do??
To increase pickup which kind of roller and spring should I use for it please tell me sir.it was a super tuning tips.but I confused among choosing the components.
Depends on your weight. Big Spring should stay in stock rpm. Clutch spring you can decrease the stock -200 or -300. Rollers, you need to find the best rollers for your weight. Start with -5 (compared to stock) then go +1 until you are satisfied.
1 thing is wierd with my scooter.after some speed once you let go of accelerator the scooter slows down so bloody quick ...why is there no free -run for some distance atleast.
Hi great video. I used NCY 12g rollers on my Honda Navi but at the top end speed I’m getting a vibration, I wasn’t having vibration with the stock 17 gram rollers, any thoughts on why? I did notice the 12g rollers have different looking sides on them. Do you know if they all have to be placed in the same direction? Rollers did not come with any directions and can’t seem to find any information or videos on it. I’m thinking I might have reached peak RPM and power band but not sure Thank you
Sorry hi brother i have scooter problem like this problem.if i start is working good when i go round with handle is start stop.Can you let me know what is problem.thank you brother.
Thank you for the informative video, I got a few question off my head. My scooter is kymco downtown 300i aka nikita. Peak torque at 6500 and max hp at 7800. 1) what will be best for wide open throttle to tune to peak torque or peak hp? And does running it this way means that the gear ratio only shifts after 6500? 2) stock clutch engages at 2.5k rpm, what should I be tuning the clutch to engage in for Hit clutch? 4k 5k? Will that give a very rough start off. I am using it for city terrain and sometimes touring. Stock roller weight was 15.5g x 8 Now I'm in malossi 18g x 6. WOT from 0 goes to 7100rpm. Currently satisfy with the 0 to 80. Just want to understand the above school of thought.
Thank you Sir for your video....I own a Burgman 400 It puts out around 30.5hp at 6,300rpm and 36Nm at 4,800rpm (by Suzuki) but when the accelerator is wide open the engine turns around 9000rpm...the engine probably has lost its power at that rpms and the bike is not accelerating as should...How can keep my rpms near to the engines peak power rpms. Thank you in advance
Your rollers are probably worn and have become lighter over time, you need heavier rollers, try some new original weight rollers, and if that doesnt help then try heavier rollers, that will lower the RPM.
a tip coming from a pro in scooters with the double variators the best results they found was to adjust the the weights so that the motor pulled slightly higher rpm than the max torque that is 200 to 300 rpm sometimes only 100-150 .
What's the advantage of this drive compared to a "normal" gear box? Speaking as an old man with moped memories from the last milenium, we always considered geared mopeds (Fantic, Garelli etc) far superior to the "automatics" such as the Puch maxi and similar. What were we doing wrong?
A CVT transmission has infinite gear ratio CVT constantly changes between ratios depending on RPMs and speed/ MPH . Less drag from the bet on cvt than chain on older mopeds you mentioned above. I hope this helps you.
Why not use just full metal variator rollers. Surly some weights turned down from some stainless bar stock to correct diameter and length then hollow out until the desired weight would work fine. Would it not be alot more durable and move more freely too ?
I think those plastics are like self lubricating and is cheaper/easier to replace when damaged/warped. Compared to when you damage the drive face where the weight sits. Plastic coated rollers ensures only one of them gets thinner as time goes.
Some rollers has a closed side. How should we place them? Is Closed side towards clockwise right? In this way, it does not collect dust inside and change its weight i think.
How I will I tune my cvt with this parts istalled inside: - Pulley 13.5 degree - 10 grams straight - clutch spring 1000 rpm - center spring 1000 rpm 160 engine. 59mm piston, bigvalves ( 24,28 valves) Too much rpm but but can't reach its potential speed for a 160 engine.
hi you seem to know what you are talking about when it comes to making a set up that works, what would you suggest for the best acceleration and midrance set up for my Aerox 155 2023 model, I don't care about top speed, I live on an island so acceleration and cruising around + engine power to get me over the mountain is want i want not topspeed, hope you have some good tips for me
Just put higher gram on roller it will lower the rpm for bike to go, lower gram for higher rpm, i love cruishing so i put highrr gram on my nmax, right now i put 14gr, but not satisfied yet, maybe i will try around 16/17 gram thats my sweet spot i gues
Hello i got My Scooter Honda Click 125CC Fuel Injection, my original grams of flyball is 15grms. I changed may Pulley to a 13.5 degree racing pulley and both springs are 1000rpm.. now can you suggest me a flyball combination for acceleration and the other one for top speed.. not the same time ... Tips for acceleration. Tip for topspeed.. Thank you bro , i love you in advance 🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣😅😘
Hello, ty for the info! Recently i installed a Yield Exhaust Pipe on my 50cc and when im between 40-50 km/h the moto lose power, but After the 50 it like she have a turbo and reach +85 km/h. What you reccomend for the moto dont lose the power between 40-50? I think with the Yield Exhaust Pipe the moto have a better performance at higher rpm... So ligther rollers could be better because the moto Will reach higher rpm faster, rigth?
2STROKE STUFFING - i have a china brand GY6 125cc scooter with 13grams all rollerballs.. i had driven it uphill road and it climbed slow at around 30kph only being easily overtaken by a 110cc scooter and 115cc semi-manual bike.. i had adjusted its carburetor jet pin also to 2nd level.. new vbelt, new rollerballs, new essential oils, new clutch systems.. what could have gone wrong?
i got suzuki address..my problem is, any weight roller i use does not fit properly..when engine idle, the roller sound knocking badly..but it have smooth sound when running..it have same problem when i using genuine pulley set from suzuki..do you have any tips for it boss?
Hi there! I did try to mix my roller a few time with different gram. But I can't get the top speed to increase from my bike. I am currently riding a 4 stroke Aerox 155. Is there any other method? Currently I am using a total of 60gram roller mix. 3×8g and 3×12g. Should i change to a lighter roller?
Hey boss, struggling with cvt tuning on my Gilera :( Engine is suppose to hit peak power at 12k rpm.. But whatever i put on seems to either pass 12k rpm and starts misfiring at 12,100,00, or no power.. this much difference from changing 0.5g in rollers weights... i have a 70cc stage6 mk2 racing kit with an R1200 pipe How can i get it to stay at 12k rpm? :/ Thanks in advance!
how do i know what size my belt should be ? I have a honda navi 110 cc scooter and it seems not to have its original size belt, because goes beyond its max speed (81 kmh) on straits or downhills but it doesn't have enough torque to go strongly on the uphills... so what should i do ? where do i get the size number of the factory belt ?
Yo , so.. i got this minarelli replica i think , its a keeway f-act50 2007 two stroke , i wanna make it go 80-90 km/h and have a fast takeoff , what collour aprings for the clutch , what roller weights do you reccomend... thx in advance :)
In gearless scooters, should we apply little bit of grease on round shaped rollers and roller-grooves in variator for smooth spinning of rollers in variator? Or will it make more issues after some time like dust deposit, sides of rollers get flat faster, vibrations will increase etc ? Please tell what should we do with proper reason.
Another theory about the pipe outlet, Il get to a video on this some time. Basically the smaller the outlet pipe is, the more gasses are compressed at the baffle cone end, and the hotter it gets at that end of the pipe* resulting in a more uniform temperature gradient through the length of the expansion chamber. "Note pulse jets get glowing red hot at the rear choke point of the burn chamber where it tapers down like the baffle cone and hot gas is compressed through the taper. So the belly or neutral chamber is the coolest and the chamber is hot at the engine end and the rear end. Keeping in mind the sonic velocity being the speed of sound inside the pipe is determined largely by temperature inside the pipe at any point along it. Pressure far less so. Since the formula of the expansion chamber design relies on a constant which is the sonic velocity figure, a more constant sonic velocity through the entire length of the pipe, the less it will deviate from the formula used to design the pipe. Or the closer it will be in projected arrival times of negative and positive signed sonic wave reflections.
@Jay Cole Hard to tell as it is not like a 4 stroke pipe where removing the muffler will probably get it to rev cleaner at top end, but even then may come at expense of lower end or mid range power. It depends how much of a tuned pipe you have on it already, the outlet pipe is only one part of the equation. In addition to that the pressure in the pipe is also partially responsible for some of the port plugging effect at peak that is related to power as well. And keep in mind that the length and what is inside the pipe contributes to the overall amount the pipe restricts.
If measuring for custom belt size, measure in such a way that the belt rest on the lowest-inner most spot on variator, and on the highest-outter most spot on clutch drive pulley, with normal amount of tension.
I really appreciate your explanation on the CVT. Can I please ask some advice? Sorry in advance for the long message. What if I have a Chinese GY6 50cc engine with 80cc bbk and aftermarket exhaust with Keihin carburetor and higher gear ratio to get better top end. I haven't done a thing with the CVT except for variator which wasn't much. I think I may even be running my stock rollers again. I know that was stupid not to do anything until now but should I use the 1500 or 2000 spring and what size sliders or rollers should I be running? I am experiencing a big from like 15-30 mph and it seems like I should be getting a better top end speed. I'm currently getting about 42 flat and 50-52 downhill lol. Can you please offer me some advice? I would truly appreciate your help brother!
I have a chinesse 150 cc scotter after 4000 kilometers the nelt pop off after 30 minutes of riding i have change 4 belts in the last month whay can be wrongn
I'm in Thailand and have a 4 stroke Yamaha 125cc scooter, could u please help me with what weight rollers u think would b best in my variator, I have tried a lot of different weight rollers, combined 6 roller weights from 41g to now 63g and I can't notice any real performance changes, should I go lighter or what would u do and use, ur videos r very easy to understand which is y I subscribed to ur channel and I hope u can help me cause the mechanics here either just want ur money or don't know what is best, being a foreigner and watching young kids fly past on the same bikes is upsetting cause they obviously know what's best but won't share any knowledge with foreigners, thank u for any help u can give me
I HAVE A 125 CC AUTOMATIC HONDA SCOOTER. HAVE REPLACED THE CLUTCH SHOES, THE BELT ALONG WITH THE ROLLERS. THE SCOOTER RAN WELL FOR AROUND 400 MILES, BUT HAVE STARTED TO GIVE HANDLE VIBRATION AGAIN AT LOWER SPEED. WHAT SHOULD BE THE REMEDY.
I'm interested in how the exhaust valves work and how to get tuned and what kind of exhaust air you need because in the background see husqvarna we or wre or cr :). I would like to tuned my motor which is husqvarna sm 125 its a supermoto like derbi senda. thank for any help
I have a 2012 Kymco DT 300i that has 35,000 miles. It's stock and there have been no modifications. When or how would I know if and when the rollers need replacing? And what difference is there between rollers and sliders? Thanks
+Rossel Gorman If it runs at higher rpm than it usually does maybe, not much experience with it. If you look at them and there's flat spots you should replace them.
And the rear Contra spring assembly some of those have angled slots that the rear cheeks will move in the angle of those will allow down shifting when applying throttle when starting up a hill or coming out of a turn. This angle can be fine tuned by a lighter or stiffer country a lighter spring will allow quicker and lower gearing giving higher RPM changes. Stiffer spring will give less of downshifting with less RPM gang when full throttle is applied.
Since the clutch is the rear pulley i removed my variator. Cut off and saved the center and welded a small machine pulley on. I installed 2500 rpm clutch springs. Now i finally have a fun go cart. It will run 55 plus and spin tires on take off. My next project is loosing all pulleys and belt and going with a cent clutch
what about if the sleeve is the same, but the spacer that goes in first place in the crankshaft is shorter or longer? becouse i have the stage6 and the malossi
This information is really accurate according to so many misconceptions in CVT tuning.
easiest way to explain cvt tunning on the web. 1 extra gram on the rollers will give the engine 350-450 lower rpms at same speed (wich helps on fuel economy as well as durability. not all us us are racers. also try a gear set to combine and have better cruising speed
Thank you. Those are the type of comments that rock. Lamens terms for beginners. I want too high speed for cruising, and got the 14/37 gears for my stock 150cc. I just got a performance clutch with red 2000 rpm springs. What rollers would be best in your experience? By placing the new gear set for top speed, i would like to try the best to not loose to much torque at moving from a stop, as I do have some hills around me where i live. Thanks
@@leroijr407 so what’s the best combination for TopSpeed?
Changing the gear also
soft contra spring for better fuel consumption also?
@@zanuarrosyidi4034 no need to change the stock contra spring. It will shift rapidly from low to higher gear ratio. Tuning the rollers can prevent or compensate this thus no need to change the the contra spring. In addition, clutch springs must be stock or even softer than stock for best fuel economy because it does not need higher rpm to engage.
Very important tip to check belt ride height with marker pen for the fastest top speed. Removing the shim between the pulley or a shorter sleeve will make it ride higher.
For a faster start many will install a stronger clutch spring to engage at a higher RPM for more power but fail to check if the varistor is still in low gear. You just might be starting off in high gear.
Paul Okada Hi...could you help explain more
on how to shim to adjust the belt ride height. I cannot picture how to shim the pulley
what about if im in a shor track where i reach 60km/h ,shouls the belt reach the higher place in the variator?
@@gsrsam For the belt to ride higher on the variator for more top speed it needs to squeeze the belt more. Removing the shim located between the outer pulley and variator will make it ride higher. If you don't have one there you could get a shorter bushing to make the pulley squeeze closer together.
I wouldn't recommend this because it will generate more heat on the rear pulley because of the less surface area created when the belt is pulled in deeper on the rear pulley. Also if you got a stronger center spring the big one in the middle of the rear pulley the heat will be too much and belt will fail prematurely.
Going to a bigger belt and keeping the stock weakest center spring will reduce the heat.
If you have stronger clutch springs then the variator weights needs to be lighter to keep it in low gear until the clutch engages at the higher RPM. It's all a balancing act.
@@Espinete87 If you want a higher top speed then removing the inner shim between the front pulley will help. If you need the acceleration on the top end then leave the shim in or you could add more which will keep it in a lower gear ratio but will reduce the top speed.
Super easy and simple , you helped me a lot with this video , tank you very much !
finally found something useful regarding tuning
THANK YOU SIR
Your stuff you do is pretty cool ,you have a great garage as well,thank you for all your fab tips & tricks...
Your the best man I want to see what you would do to get the most power from a gy6 50
I’m not the person your asking this question, but I had years ago a Baotian GY6 50 cc modified with Naraku 90 cc cylinder, piston, ported big valve Naraku cylinderhead, 24 mm PVK carb, Uni Filter airfilter, different intake manifold, intake riser, performance camshaft, Leo Vince exhaust, Naraku variator, Malossi kevlar belt, Naraku Sport clutch, Naraku clutch bell and white clutch spring. As stock it was very slow but after all these mods without any secondary gear changes (transmission gears) top speed was 105 km/h measured with motorcycle reliable speedometer.
@@jannep6772 was the pwk carb easy to setup? I upgraded a kymco vp50 to 52mm 90cc, and its not running faster then 65km/h, olso it wont run right with a 24mm cvk carb somehow
@@KooolaBe Hi. Years ago in that 90 cc build I used PVK 24 carb and not flat slide PWK 24 carb. Have you got big valve head and different camshaft? Does your exhaust system breath/flow enough? I would start from those things and also modify variator etc.
You can use flatslide PWK carb and it flows air much better than PVK type as it doesn’t have throttle butterfly and there is no hassle with the vacuum operating throttle slide. Just make sure you get a 4-stroke type PWK (I use in my 170 cc 30 mm PWK Chinese copy carb).
I think 24 mm PWK is big enough for 90 cc as with PWK you eliminate that flow restricting throttle butterfly and flow path through PWK flat slide when throttle is fully open is very smooth. But you have to change your throttle cable to fit PWK style carb as throttle cable carb end has to be much smaller than that big end in stock PVK carbs.
One other option for carb is Mikuni TM24-9 or TM24-8001 flat slide, but these are actually 2 stroke carbs and many times a bit tricky to get jetted well without changing also other parts than only main jets.
I hope you got your questions answered. It’s maybe easiest and cheapest to use PWK style carb and just change your throttle cable. With Mikuni TM style you also have to change to similar different style throttle cable.
@@jannep6772 i have a t2 ncy cam, a 52mm head, ive tried naraku vario but it performs worse then stock one, what main jet where u using with the 24mm vaccuum carb? As i dont have a flat side carb (i misread ur first previous post) my build atm rode better with the inlet restriction not removed and a 88 jet, now thr inlet is derestricted and using 96 jet, but it has less power then with the restriction in place 😴
@@KooolaBe That is really strange why it doesn’t perform better if you have already big valve head and different camshaft.
My 90 cc build was done so many years ago that it’s really hard to remember. Must be something in the 90-102 range? I had stock secondary gears, Malossi Kevlar belt, Naraku Sport/Race clutch and clutch bell, white +1000 rpm? torque spring, Naraku big valve well ported cylinderhead, Naraku sport camshaft, Naraku aluminium intake riser plate, Naraku 24 mm PVK carb with that carburetors stock jets if I remember correctly (but I can also remember that I bought 10 pcs. main jets for it), Uni Filter air filter, Naraku variator but I can’t remember what roller weights I ran in it, Leo Vince nice well flowing exhaust, Naraku CDI, coil and NGK (maybe Iridium?) spark plug.
Cylinderhead was in flow bench before and after porting. Flow increased significantly and I had a flow bench document back then, but when I sold that scooter the new owner got that document with it. New owner was very happy with the performance by the way... 😉
I can still remember when my cylinderhead porter said that the head was not very well designed, but somehow he managed to improve it’s flow at the lifts these engines cams lift those valves = at low lifts. He also modified both valves to gain flow. Like 30 degree cut to intake valve upper area next to seat contact area etc.
Hi!...and thanks for all your advice and sharing your (considerable) knowledge. I'm going on a long trip next year (6000 miles), and would like to know if there is anything I can do to improve fuel economy, especially in the clutch/variator area?
Thanks! Sounds like a blast! Maybe try to tune the variator to keep revs lower than max power, more in the "max economy" range.
Thanks!
Nice video, please give more tips for tuning of cvt thanks
Very nice video . Please give me a tips for perfect tuning of cvt thanks
Thank you very much for good info .What can I do for better hill climb ride .
instead of adjusting the bushing i think its better to grind the roller slot
Where can I order custom belts from? ? Struggling to find anywhere
I have a hammerhead gts 150 and was wondering which weight for the rollers would be best for max torque as well as the fastest top speed. Anyone have a good setup for faster speeds without losing too much torque?
What would cause drr 90 cc quad to rev like crazy but not shift. It’s like riding in 1st or 2nd gear if lucky. Motor runs great there is no slipping. I marked variatir to check travel of belt and looks to be traveling all the way. Yet I don’t see how it can be traveling all the way up cause it’s not shift or changing ratio. It just takes off very well then tops out immediately Erving to the moon about 15 20 mph. I bought tach and will be taking a closer look at it with tach. Gonna put on stand and try running it on stand. Thanks for very imformative videos.
The tip about the belt is hilarious, that's a joke right ¿? 😂
I have a Xpro maui 50cc moped belt broke and I changed the belt but now it will not start up? Any ideas 💡?
Hi guy. My supplier gives me a 25KGF spring. But some other vendors describe the spring information with an rpm value. How do I know how many rpm is 25KGF equivalent. Please help me
Hello everyone!
Does anyone know, the difference in variators design, betwin 2 stroke and 4 stroke transmission?
I have 180cc 2st Hexagone, and it drives me crazy, cos it is taking off slow, like in 2cond gear,then its fast. I did put shims to make the belt be placed lower on the variator and drive plate, so it can touch the boss shaft (because from the factory, the belt rides almost 1 cm higher), and the yake off improve amazing,but then it feels like I'm out of demultiplication( same like just having 4gears not6). Incant find a solution. Because i cant get dr pulley rollers anymore on the market, that would have kind of solve the problems.
Hi there thank u for the informative video! I was wondering if you have heard of 2 angle on the variation! And how does that work! I am considering modifying my cvt! Would like to know more and how it would effect my performance!
Thanks! Like dual radius roller ways kinda? I'd say how well it works depends on how linear the contra spring action is, and if it's designed with the increasing inertia of the rollers as they move outwards in mind.
Hi. This is concerning a utv crew with dump bed. It's very heavy I know but I want it to grab at a lower RPM.....it will run up to 53mph with just me in it but I don't care about speed. I use around the house for pulling a small trailer and trail riding. What can I do to the primary or secondary to give me faster take off without running 15mph and 3800-4000 rpm? This will also make it more comfortable to ride in yard because it will be quieter while running 7-18mph. Thanks
Ive got problem, my scooter get high rpm, but not high speed. Can i have an advice sir.
I have a question... ok so I am doing my cvt system on my yamaha zuma 125... what is the best slider weight mix I can use to balance it out.... I want speed!
hi there would you recommend or have you tried using super lube on your torque drive? planning to regrease mine thanks so much great vid btw. ✌🏽
was reffering to super lube silicone base btw the one that we use for brake slider pins since my torque drive has rubber o-ring on it and silicone base is safe on rubbers right, but i am not quite sure how will it hold on our torque drive
Thank u sir
if i want to improve the acceleration of my scooter what do I do? lighter or heavier roller weights and softer/stiffer springs? thanks!
Hardest spring
light roller weights
I have a 2000 honda elite. I need more top end speed. What can i do to fix this?
Hi i do have a honda pcx 125 and i weigh about 130kg what do you recommend for an upgrade. Thanks!new subscriber here
+Juven Morada Welcome to the channel! Are there any performance pipes available for it?
Sorry I'm not very clear. I mean if you put rollers with quite a difference in weight it MIGHT be worse than using rollers of the same weight or with alight difference. ...ok now I'm giving a wrong example but when I got my used honda dio it had a weirdo acceleration...once i opened up the transmission I found out the previous owner used just 3 rollers! And those 3 pins (I don't know the proper term) that slide up and down the variator were completely consumed...also the part of the variator where those slides was heavily consumed....this kind of convinced me that using rollers with big difference in weight might let the rollers works 3 by 3 and this will give them a faster degradation.Nevertheless...im quite theoretical since I didn't have chance to try that many combos 😥
what are slide pieces for? what is their purpose
Orite pal any chance you know how to get piaggio zig 50cc 4t to go faster if only going 34mrp it's a bit slow 🐌
Can I put a 6 grams in difference of weights when im putting a light weigth and heavy rollers?
Hi , I feel my scooter a litle bit slow, starting I mean, I taked off the variator cover and discovered that the belt goes down into the pulley inmediatli after I give a litle bit of gas, even before the scooter starts moving, this way the lowest gear it is wasted..... should I increase the contra spring force?.. Thanks for your time...
try lighter rollers first, too heavy makes the variator shift too early
you want to find a balance, for peroformance basically you want to use the whole variator range while keepingit in lower "gear" as much as possible for more torque. a little lighter than stock is good to increase your acceleration a bit by making the variator stay in low "gear" longer, but if you go too light it will not shift to the highest "gear" making you lose top speed
figure out what size rollers your scoot uses, get a roller weight tuning kit with lots of weights, and also google the sharpie variator method to help visualize your belt travel
ok so i have a 2500 rpm contra spring in my scooter but the clutch springs(the little ones on the pad are 1500 rpm ) will that effect the top end speed at all or should put the stock springs back in it cause it feels as iff the belt is slipping and i cant even think of why
Just put a yuminashi variator on my 2022 Honda ADV 150. It came with 12g rollers their website recommended 13g for heavier riders. I am 250lbs. I have tried all three rollers and rollers combo 6x12g, 6x13g, and 3x12g with 3x13g. I have better acceleration but no gain on top end (still 65MPH ). I am thinking of putting in a yellow malossi contra spring. Do you have any recommendations I want the best of both worlds acceleration and top speed
There is nothing you can do. There is simply no power left at those speeds. Remember, you don´t gain any power by putting in tuning parts, you´re just shifting it around.
The best way would either be to lose some weight yourself (most of us should) or get a bigger bike.
My 2009 sh150i runs good until 90km/h, tried stock new 12.25gr rollers, as dr pulley 11gr sliders, BUT, my top speed is very low, I can't even pass 100km/h
Is from worn stock variator (can't move the belt in the high area?), Is from the hard contra spring?(i doubt that the ex owner ever changed the original)
Can you help me with that?
Can I shorten the shaft on a 4 stroke?
Hello guys! I have a honda SH 125i. I replaced the variator with a new malossi multivar 2000 I've noticed that the speed dropped down but i can hear the the motor is running full power but not mutch with the speed. I need your help thanks
Har en Aerox som går 80 på flata å 30 opp bakkene🙂 hva skal jeg gjøre?
Hi have u tried smoothing out the ramp gradients with epoxy so theyre not as steep ?
hello i enjoyed your video has helpful info i have a qmb139 50cc scooter that has been upgraded to 80cc big bore kit i am experincing slow top speed it will only go 30mph even before the kit was installed top speed was slower i have upgraded jets in the carb put performance variator on with 6.5g rollers a pod filter a performance exhaust and still the same results i even switched rollers back to 8.5g at first i put all in then i took 3 out and seems no matter what i do i cant get past 30mph any help would be great as i am beyond stumped right now i am at sea level if that helps any thanks
Its probably your cdi
Light roller will boost acceleration but cutting top speed.
Heavier roller smooth acceleration and give higher top speed (not so much)
I think that's not what the vlog says. Lighter roller will shift at higher rpm so you need to throttle more to have acceleration unlike heavy roller that will shift at low rpm that means in only a small movement of the throttle. I thinks it's in more of fuel efficiency.
@@vanpore6326 lighter roller boost acceleration coz it need higer rpm to drive. and at higher rpm it seem reducing roller weight from standart will cut the centrifugal force so pulley cant reach maximum speed.
Wat combination ball for faster of mio sporty
Please to in deapth. Sorry for my english im danish.
Hi, do you need to grease the boss on the variator?
God no! Unless you like grease being flung everywhere and all over everything.
If you did grease it please do tell the story here about the travesty that ensued. 😂
Add more detail
1:48 I was so scared to see this, thankfully it's just for measuring...
There is one important thing when you place you rollers.
Their sides are not the same.
One side is thick, but the other side is thin.
When variator works, it rotates to the left, but the force pushes rollers to the right side.
You need to position the rollers so that the thinner side goes to the left.
I hope I helped you, this is very important and make sure you did this right.
Best regards! :)
malossi rollers dont see different.i only put them on the marked side each.
@@jenny-masterchef You have to adjust them so the thicker side is more pressurized. But if you put them wrong, your scooter won't go fast and iit will become slow. And that's why you have to pay attention on that.
Centrifugal force pushes the rollers on a particular side. So you place the rollers based on that.
Good tips. I like your test belt ideal. If I might expand on your idea.... You could use contact-cement velcro strips on the adjustment, so that the belt would not have a proud(wide) edge that would interfere with sheaves (pulley) while judging length. You still aren't going anywhere with it, but it might be able to cycle a few times, as long as the rear wheel is up.
Perhaps also, you could add measured white lines for calibration.
Hi man, have a 70cc stage6 scoot set up with stage6 vario 5g sliders, 1500rpm contra, tecnigas exhaust. I have recently changed my clutch to a performance clutch which comes with a contra spring slider ring and clutch spring pre set for 70cc cylinders. Runs pretty fast and smooth on flat and will easily do 100kph. However, suddenly noticed a change with uphill performance as it slowy loses power like from 50 down to 25kph and couldn't regain that power or acceleration. It runs fine uphill from a stop cruising at 50-60kph with stock clutch but not with the performance clutch and the contra slider on it. The contra spring slider ring seems to add pre load tension and with this, should i get a lighter slider/roller with it? The pre-load tension also seems to put the belt a few mm lower on the rear pulley which i know will affect takeoff performance.
*thumbs up* definitely tips worth learning
Thanks!
@@2STROKESTUFFING HEY YE ALL BITCHZ NOW TELL ME KNOW WHICH SPRING MAKE MY SCOOTA RUN FASTER 2000RPM OR HIGHER THE NUMBER LIKE 5000RPM ??? ALSO WHICH ONE IS SOFTER ?????
Just to resurrect a fossil, like Alex said a spring just stiff enough to not slip is best. Trick I found here is to cut one of those china dio springs down.
I wanted light weights, but they could not overcome the spring force & variate fully until I used a weaker spring.
I like it man. You’ve got a straight to biznaz style. I’m gonna watch more vids
Hi, great video, explains everything so perfectlty. I have a question to you. I just changed the rollers on my gilera ST 200 to a lighter set. Now when I ride is all good and as expected RPM is higher, but when I brake I always get tha klick-klack-klick-klack sound just before I stop. Did you experience something like this before? I already try to adjust the clutch to make springs softer, but no improvements. Thank you in advance.
Thank you sir! Straight to the point👉 just the way I like it!
Wow i miss anything he said lol
My scooter 70cc 2stroke pulls hard af in low hear, but when it goes into 2nd it doesnt pull very good, also uphill it stays in high gear untill i get to like 10mph, i have stiffest contra spring and 4.5g rollers, new belt, and a new clutch, with stiff springs....what should i do??
I have a 70cc aerox with a 19mm carb and it is very powerful on takeoff but only hits 55mph any ideas what i need to do?
To increase pickup which kind of roller and spring should I use for it please tell me sir.it was a super tuning tips.but I confused among choosing the components.
Depends on your weight.
Big Spring should stay in stock rpm.
Clutch spring you can decrease the stock -200 or -300.
Rollers, you need to find the best rollers for your weight. Start with -5 (compared to stock) then go +1 until you are satisfied.
1 thing is wierd with my scooter.after some speed once you let go of accelerator the scooter slows down so bloody quick ...why is there no free -run for some distance atleast.
i have a honda elite and it does that normally you gotta keep the throttle engaged to coast and ease off it to slow down
Maybe your brakes are binding?
Hi great video. I used NCY 12g rollers on my Honda Navi but at the top end speed I’m getting a vibration, I wasn’t having vibration with the stock 17 gram rollers, any thoughts on why? I did notice the 12g rollers have different looking sides on them. Do you know if they all have to be placed in the same direction? Rollers did not come with any directions and can’t seem to find any information or videos on it. I’m thinking I might have reached peak RPM and power band but not sure Thank you
Sorry hi brother i have scooter problem like this problem.if i start is working good when i go round with handle is start stop.Can you let me know what is problem.thank you brother.
Thank you for the informative video, I got a few question off my head.
My scooter is kymco downtown 300i aka nikita. Peak torque at 6500 and max hp at 7800.
1) what will be best for wide open throttle to tune to peak torque or peak hp? And does running it this way means that the gear ratio only shifts after 6500?
2) stock clutch engages at 2.5k rpm, what should I be tuning the clutch to engage in for Hit clutch? 4k 5k? Will that give a very rough start off.
I am using it for city terrain and sometimes touring.
Stock roller weight was 15.5g x 8
Now I'm in malossi 18g x 6. WOT from 0 goes to 7100rpm. Currently satisfy with the 0 to 80. Just want to understand the above school of thought.
He must be busy...
no grafit vazelin on rolen, in 1998 on piaggio put vazelin on rolen im a mecanic, no uzur, etc. sori for english
I agree. I chek 24g off stock i reduced to 20g by drilling it. Now accelerate is incresed. 😁
Thank you Sir for your video....I own a Burgman 400 It puts out around 30.5hp at 6,300rpm and 36Nm at 4,800rpm (by Suzuki) but when the accelerator is wide open the engine turns around 9000rpm...the engine probably has lost its power at that rpms and the bike is not accelerating as should...How can keep my rpms near to the engines peak power rpms.
Thank you in advance
Your rollers are probably worn and have become lighter over time, you need heavier rollers, try some new original weight rollers, and if that doesnt help then try heavier rollers, that will lower the RPM.
a tip coming from a pro in scooters with the double variators the best results they found was to adjust the the weights so that the motor pulled slightly higher rpm than the max torque that is 200 to 300 rpm sometimes only 100-150 .
+Franz Heil Thanks, I'll experiment with it on the dyno in future videos.
@@2STROKESTUFFING did you experiment
What's the advantage of this drive compared to a "normal" gear box?
Speaking as an old man with moped memories from the last milenium, we always considered geared mopeds (Fantic, Garelli etc) far superior to the "automatics" such as the Puch maxi and similar.
What were we doing wrong?
A CVT transmission has infinite gear ratio CVT constantly changes between ratios depending on RPMs and speed/ MPH . Less drag from the bet on cvt than chain on older mopeds you mentioned above. I hope this helps you.
Why not use just full metal variator rollers. Surly some weights turned down from some stainless bar stock to correct diameter and length then hollow out until the desired weight would work fine. Would it not be alot more durable and move more freely too ?
I think those plastics are like self lubricating and is cheaper/easier to replace when damaged/warped. Compared to when you damage the drive face where the weight sits. Plastic coated rollers ensures only one of them gets thinner as time goes.
Nice for video
l’m video creator motorcycle from Cambodia 🇰🇭
Some rollers has a closed side. How should we place them? Is Closed side towards clockwise right? In this way, it does not collect dust inside and change its weight i think.
if only you was round the corner . i would be your number one 2t pest
your one helpfull guy
How I will I tune my cvt with this parts istalled inside:
- Pulley 13.5 degree
- 10 grams straight
- clutch spring 1000 rpm
- center spring 1000 rpm
160 engine. 59mm piston, bigvalves ( 24,28 valves)
Too much rpm but but can't reach its potential speed for a 160 engine.
Put in stiffer center spring
hi you seem to know what you are talking about when it comes to making a set up that works, what would you suggest for the best acceleration and midrance set up for my Aerox 155 2023 model, I don't care about top speed, I live on an island so acceleration and cruising around + engine power to get me over the mountain is want i want not topspeed, hope you have some good tips for me
Just put higher gram on roller it will lower the rpm for bike to go, lower gram for higher rpm, i love cruishing so i put highrr gram on my nmax, right now i put 14gr, but not satisfied yet, maybe i will try around 16/17 gram thats my sweet spot i gues
Hello I have liberty s 50cc , it's maximum speed 44 , how can I make it 60/70 speed please😫🙏🙏💓
You'll be lucky to make it that far lol.
Fantastic video, no bullshit, straight to the point. Thank you!
Hello i got My Scooter Honda Click 125CC Fuel Injection, my original grams of flyball is 15grms. I changed may Pulley to a 13.5 degree racing pulley and both springs are 1000rpm.. now can you suggest me a flyball combination for acceleration and the other one for top speed.. not the same time ...
Tips for acceleration.
Tip for topspeed..
Thank you bro , i love you in advance 🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣😅😘
Hello, ty for the info!
Recently i installed a Yield Exhaust Pipe on my 50cc and when im between 40-50 km/h the moto lose power, but After the 50 it like she have a turbo and reach +85 km/h. What you reccomend for the moto dont lose the power between 40-50? I think with the Yield Exhaust Pipe the moto have a better performance at higher rpm... So ligther rollers could be better because the moto Will reach higher rpm faster, rigth?
2STROKE STUFFING - i have a china brand GY6 125cc scooter with 13grams all rollerballs.. i had driven it uphill road and it climbed slow at around 30kph only being easily overtaken by a 110cc scooter and 115cc semi-manual bike.. i had adjusted its carburetor jet pin also to 2nd level.. new vbelt, new rollerballs, new essential oils, new clutch systems.. what could have gone wrong?
i got suzuki address..my problem is, any weight roller i use does not fit properly..when engine idle, the roller sound knocking badly..but it have smooth sound when running..it have same problem when i using genuine pulley set from suzuki..do you have any tips for it boss?
Hi there! I did try to mix my roller a few time with different gram. But I can't get the top speed to increase from my bike. I am currently riding a 4 stroke Aerox 155. Is there any other method? Currently I am using a total of 60gram roller mix. 3×8g and 3×12g. Should i change to a lighter roller?
Hey boss, struggling with cvt tuning on my Gilera :(
Engine is suppose to hit peak power at 12k rpm.. But whatever i put on seems to either pass 12k rpm and starts misfiring at 12,100,00, or no power.. this much difference from changing 0.5g in rollers weights... i have a 70cc stage6 mk2 racing kit with an R1200 pipe
How can i get it to stay at 12k rpm? :/
Thanks in advance!
how do i know what size my belt should be ? I have a honda navi 110 cc scooter and it seems not to have its original size belt, because goes beyond its max speed (81 kmh) on straits or downhills but it doesn't have enough torque to go strongly on the uphills... so what should i do ? where do i get the size number of the factory belt ?
GO MORE IN DEPTH. So much BS out there. How long do I want to be in a low ratio for? I've heard 1:1 for as long as possible.
suzuki 🤮 , yamaha is better in the theme border of wear
Yo , so.. i got this minarelli replica i think , its a keeway f-act50 2007 two stroke , i wanna make it go 80-90 km/h and have a fast takeoff , what collour aprings for the clutch , what roller weights do you reccomend... thx in advance :)
In gearless scooters, should we apply little bit of grease on round shaped rollers and roller-grooves in variator for smooth spinning of rollers in variator?
Or will it make more issues after some time like dust deposit, sides of rollers get flat faster, vibrations will increase etc ?
Please tell what should we do with proper reason.
Greasing them will make a hell lot of mess, and will attract dirt, necer grease those areas
Use dry graphite
👍👍👍
Can you please explain me why the engine makes more power by restricting the exhaust after the cylinder? Thanks
+Chuck Norris The stinger you mean? Or the exhaust flange exit?
2STROKE STUFFING the stinger. Like you said in one of your recent videos.
+Chuck Norris It's to build pressure in the pipe making the pulses as strong as possible.
Another theory about the pipe outlet, Il get to a video on this some time.
Basically the smaller the outlet pipe is, the more gasses are compressed at the baffle cone end, and the hotter it gets at that end of the pipe* resulting in a more uniform temperature gradient through the length of the expansion chamber.
"Note pulse jets get glowing red hot at the rear choke point of the burn chamber where it tapers down like the baffle cone and hot gas is compressed through the taper.
So the belly or neutral chamber is the coolest and the chamber is hot at the engine end and the rear end.
Keeping in mind the sonic velocity being the speed of sound inside the pipe is determined largely by temperature inside the pipe at any point along it. Pressure far less so.
Since the formula of the expansion chamber design relies on a constant which is the sonic velocity figure, a more constant sonic velocity through the entire length of the pipe, the less it will deviate from the formula used to design the pipe. Or the closer it will be in projected arrival times of negative and positive signed sonic wave reflections.
@Jay Cole
Hard to tell as it is not like a 4 stroke pipe where removing the muffler will probably get it to rev cleaner at top end, but even then may come at expense of lower end or mid range power.
It depends how much of a tuned pipe you have on it already, the outlet pipe is only one part of the equation.
In addition to that the pressure in the pipe is also partially responsible for some of the port plugging effect at peak that is related to power as well.
And keep in mind that the length and what is inside the pipe contributes to the overall amount the pipe restricts.
If measuring for custom belt size, measure in such a way that the belt rest on the lowest-inner most spot on variator, and on the highest-outter most spot on clutch drive pulley, with normal amount of tension.
u r fucking genious bud! ;)
Thanks!
I really appreciate your explanation on the CVT. Can I please ask some advice? Sorry in advance for the long message. What if I have a Chinese GY6 50cc engine with 80cc bbk and aftermarket exhaust with Keihin carburetor and higher gear ratio to get better top end. I haven't done a thing with the CVT except for variator which wasn't much. I think I may even be running my stock rollers again. I know that was stupid not to do anything until now but should I use the 1500 or 2000 spring and what size sliders or rollers should I be running? I am experiencing a big from like 15-30 mph and it seems like I should be getting a better top end speed. I'm currently getting about 42 flat and 50-52 downhill lol. Can you please offer me some advice? I would truly appreciate your help brother!
I have a chinesse 150 cc scotter after 4000 kilometers the nelt pop off after 30 minutes of riding i have change 4 belts in the last month whay can be wrongn
I'm in Thailand and have a 4 stroke Yamaha 125cc scooter, could u please help me with what weight rollers u think would b best in my variator, I have tried a lot of different weight rollers, combined 6 roller weights from 41g to now 63g and I can't notice any real performance changes, should I go lighter or what would u do and use, ur videos r very easy to understand which is y I subscribed to ur channel and I hope u can help me cause the mechanics here either just want ur money or don't know what is best, being a foreigner and watching young kids fly past on the same bikes is upsetting cause they obviously know what's best but won't share any knowledge with foreigners, thank u for any help u can give me
I HAVE A 125 CC AUTOMATIC HONDA SCOOTER. HAVE REPLACED THE CLUTCH SHOES, THE BELT ALONG WITH THE ROLLERS. THE SCOOTER RAN WELL FOR AROUND 400 MILES, BUT HAVE STARTED TO GIVE HANDLE VIBRATION AGAIN AT LOWER SPEED. WHAT SHOULD BE THE REMEDY.
I'm interested in how the exhaust valves work and how to get tuned and what kind of exhaust air you need because in the background see husqvarna we or wre or cr :). I would like to tuned my motor which is husqvarna sm 125 its a supermoto like derbi senda. thank for any help
I have a 2012 Kymco DT 300i that has 35,000 miles. It's stock and there have been no modifications. When or how would I know if and when the rollers need replacing? And what difference is there between rollers and sliders? Thanks
+Rossel Gorman If it runs at higher rpm than it usually does maybe, not much experience with it. If you look at them and there's flat spots you should replace them.
Thank you for your response.
And the rear Contra spring assembly some of those have angled slots that the rear cheeks will move in the angle of those will allow down shifting when applying throttle when starting up a hill or coming out of a turn.
This angle can be fine tuned by a lighter or stiffer country a lighter spring will allow quicker and lower gearing giving higher RPM changes.
Stiffer spring will give less of downshifting with less RPM gang when full throttle is applied.
Since the clutch is the rear pulley i removed my variator. Cut off and saved the center and welded a small machine pulley on. I installed 2500 rpm clutch springs. Now i finally have a fun go cart. It will run 55 plus and spin tires on take off. My next project is loosing all pulleys and belt and going with a cent clutch
How to find softier spring then the stock one?
what about if the sleeve is the same, but the spacer that goes in first place in the crankshaft is shorter or longer? becouse i have the stage6 and the malossi