At 10:00 you pulled out the very necessary wick, for oiling the motor. The brushes are very worn, they need to be replaced. The fingers you are pointing to at 16:00, there are four, often have worn so that there are small holes in them. If so, they have to be replaced. You are damaging them by pushing them away from the drum. To remove the boards holding the fingers, you should straighten the tabs very carefully before trying to carefully lift the boards. Congratulations on it running forward. These have a great tendency to prefer to run in reverse.
What is the correct orientation for the brushes? I see many people insert them small end first, but it seems the small end should face the spring, even the American flyer parts manual has it facing large side towards the motor.
Always take the smoke stack out before taking the boiler off the chassis . this is true on all the smoking engines! If you take them down all the way, take the commutator our can clean it. This gives you the chance to check and clean everything.
If u take the scew out of eng plate u find lots of hard grease kated up on lot old trans just clean add new grease most times eng free up and run like a top lube good
That is a 293 KC trucks made 1953 to 1957, reverse in tender. In 1958 the 293 had reverse in cab. Had a whistle says Greenberg Guide. I would replace be the brushes and e unit contacts. New smoke tube after you put the body back on or you will break a new one. If tender to loco wiring is tattered or not original, get a new harness from Doug Peck. That type Pacific with the heater on top of the boiler only made in die cast metal. 290, 295, 293 and 296. The Plastic styles were different. 282, 283, 285, 287, and 289. You did pretty well using old parts. By the way Smoke and Choo-choo is the Gilbert term, not chuff. SMCC makes you a serious American Flyer Trains repairman!
“Thank You “ for your video on this American Flyer Have at times thought to get me one, but thought that the would be harder to repair. But watching your video has made me think differently, Thanks again and keep up with the good videos.May God’s blessing be with you and your family.
note to file, don't ask him to repair your AF engine. pretty rough handling the components. i realize TV contact spray is a miracle option . might as well dunk it in a tub of it very liberal with it. might want to clean the pick up wheels and the coper contact under the tender. if there's one thing I've learned working on AF engines is know what the components are and how they are assembled otherwise you risk breaking a part not easily replace. like breaking off the smoke stack. look before you leap.my thoughts.
I have an AF 290 4-6-2 with many accessories that I just recovered from my 97 y/o mother's attic, probably circa 1950. I repaired the transformer (frayed ac wire) but have not performed an operability test yet. I haven't run this train since I was 8 y/o (69 years ago). I appreciate your detailed repair video and do not have your skills and experienc but if I find myself stumped in my restoration I can avail myself of some knowledgeable RR modelers in my hometown. When I get this AM set running I will gift my 8 y/o grandson with it. Again t/u for your detailed vid and God bless.
Its getting less power the farther away it is from power source. To fix this you need feeder wires. I currently dont have a video on this but there is lots of videos on how to do it.
Of course it still runs. It was MADE IN NEW HAVEN, CONNECTICUT. USA.
At 10:00 you pulled out the very necessary wick, for oiling the motor. The brushes are very worn, they need to be replaced. The fingers you are pointing to at 16:00, there are four, often have worn so that there are small holes in them. If so, they have to be replaced. You are damaging them by pushing them away from the drum. To remove the boards holding the fingers, you should straighten the tabs very carefully before trying to carefully lift the boards. Congratulations on it running forward. These have a great tendency to prefer to run in reverse.
What is the correct orientation for the brushes? I see many people insert them small end first, but it seems the small end should face the spring, even the American flyer parts manual has it facing large side towards the motor.
Always take the smoke stack out before taking the boiler off the chassis . this is true on all the smoking engines!
If you take them down all the way, take the commutator our can clean it. This gives you the chance to check and clean everything.
If u take the scew out of eng plate u find lots of hard grease kated up on lot old trans just clean add new grease most times eng free up and run like a top lube good
Thanks for this video! I told the wife I would try and fix her american flyer, it is doing the exact same thing. Thank you for the guide.
That is a 293 KC trucks made 1953 to 1957, reverse in tender. In 1958 the 293 had reverse in cab. Had a whistle says Greenberg Guide. I would replace be the brushes and e unit contacts. New smoke tube after you put the body back on or you will break a new one. If tender to loco wiring is tattered or not original, get a new harness from Doug Peck. That type Pacific with the heater on top of the boiler only made in die cast metal. 290, 295, 293 and 296. The Plastic styles were different. 282, 283, 285, 287, and 289. You did pretty well using old parts. By the way
Smoke and Choo-choo is the Gilbert term, not chuff. SMCC makes you a serious American Flyer Trains repairman!
The 293 didn't have a whistle. Its uncataloged cousin, the 296, had one.
He is a very good repair man! I am not very good at it, mainly because I am in a small Apt.
“Thank You “ for your video on this American Flyer Have at times thought to get me one, but thought that the would be harder to repair. But watching your video has made me think differently, Thanks again and keep up with the good videos.May God’s blessing be with you and your family.
note to file, don't ask him to repair your AF engine. pretty rough handling the components. i realize TV contact spray is a miracle option . might as well dunk it in a tub of it very liberal with it. might want to clean the pick up wheels and the coper contact under the tender. if there's one thing I've learned working on AF engines is know what the components are and how they are assembled otherwise you risk breaking a part not easily replace. like breaking off the smoke stack. look before you leap.my thoughts.
I have an AF 290 4-6-2 with many accessories that I just recovered from my 97 y/o mother's attic, probably circa 1950. I repaired the transformer (frayed ac wire) but have not performed an operability test yet. I haven't run this train since I was 8 y/o (69 years ago). I appreciate your detailed repair video and do not have your skills and experienc but if I find myself stumped in my restoration I can avail myself of some knowledgeable RR modelers in my hometown. When I get this AM set running I will gift my 8 y/o grandson with it. Again t/u for your detailed vid and God bless.
I didn't see any smoke coming out of the smoke unit
Hey just stopping by, My grandfather who I call "Bebop" got one of these IN 1957 and owned it since but today he gave it to me.
Thank you Uncle B!
Thanks
Why does my train go fast near the transformer but slow at the far end of the track away from the transformer. How can I fix this problem?
Its getting less power the farther away it is from power source. To fix this you need feeder wires. I currently dont have a video on this but there is lots of videos on how to do it.
@@UBTOYS when I was younger the train made it around the same track without losing speed. It is a small figure 8 layout.
@@MADguitar Make sure wheels on locomotive are clean and you have good clean connections for all the track.
Is this dc?
Yes
@@UBTOYS I thought these ran on AC but certain models could run AC or DC
So what exactly did you do to make it run? I missed it.
Cleaning
You need to watch a video on how to disassemble clean and lube the locomotive properly.