Got my addition foundation poured today in Wisconsin. 8” FOX ICF. Pumped a 4000 psi wall mix pea stone 6” slump went off without a hitch. External vibration(sawzalls) no blowouts great consolidation around window bucks. Thanks for all your content! I yelled here comes the mud!!!! 45 minutes late
That’s a pretty cool curb. I like it. Something that I haven’t seen in a while (like 40 years) is where the garage door meets the floor is about an 1” or so lower than the main floor. Back in ‘80, My dad and I built an addition onto the house with a 24’x24’ garage with kitchen and dining room above. Aroy was a buddy of my dad’s was a concrete finisher. He nailed a 2x3 to the form at the opening for the overhead door. When then overhead door closed in was just an 1-1/2” deeper and 3” inset relative to the rest of the garage floor. That inset for the door did seem to help keep the weather out quite a bit.
What did you do to separate the concrete from the steel siding? Concrete is corrosive and will cause the steel to rust away. Another reason they won't allow flashing against wood when pour a porch floor against rim joist. Been that way for many years. There is a black vinyl flashing for the purpose.
Bondo I just did my first under floor heat job on my own 40x60 I used a new insolation product called Hitz Holter a German product made in the USA very easy to use comes in a 4'x24' section with vapor barrier on each side ,it has lines on the one side so layout of the tubes are simple .I also used the plastic staples to attach the tubing what a time saver from using steel cage and ty wraps. you should check it out .
Hi Bondo….I have a question for you please? I am about to pour a 35’ by 60 foot slab for my garage(indoor). I am doing a 2 part monolithic pour…stem wall is done. I have #5 rebar around the perimeter in the “haunch” which I way oversized it. I have #4 rebar on 24” centers throughout. My average thickness will be 5 1/2” of 4000psi with 3/4” aggregate. My question is this…control cuts…do they actually work? Especially on something like what I am pouring? I know it is going to crack regardless of what I do. But, with all that rebar I would think the cracks should be mostly hairline….and I can easily fill them as time goes on. I am seeing mixed information….and basically, it seems like stress cuts made after 18 hours are pretty useless. The cracks have basically already started in the slab, and they will go where they want. I don’t have the means to do “green” cutting. I would really appreciate your thoughts and experience on this. Thank you….
Just rework the earth outside of the building - did a light ditch or ‘swale’ to carry the rainwater elsewhere. If that look is undesirable, dig a trench & fill it with a large perforated drain pipe & gravel & french drain the water away. Then use the indoor curb as insurance against a catastrophic rainfall.
Thanks. I have to admit that the curbs work well. They are a pain to pour them but one floor we did it on never even cracked and the customer wanted no saw cuts.
My shop has concrete in 2/3 of it. How bad is it to match up the existing concrete to finish the remaining 1/3 so its a smooth, flat, & level transition between new & old concrete?
I wish this was close to me! I would come work a day with you for free just to see how you do every single step! I've done probably 30 foundations for houses but never any concrete slabs but always wanted to for some odd reason! Do y'all have to grade before you poor or is that done by someone else? Love the vid and the facts.
@charles viner u see bondo even has a guy trying to spam him. I guess that is when you finally made it on youtube is when some1 makes a twlegram account of you that was created 5 hours ago lol
@@rags2richies146 yes it will. And the lumber that gets partially covered can rot also. Most counties would never let this pass for inspection. Even without expansion board it would never pass. Done residential and commercial concrete for 30 years.
the fiber concrete sux!! and i’m very qualified to make that statement , why use the wire if your not going to pull it up? lots wrong with this. needs 6x6 poles 2x6 construction. your looking at the cheapest building you can build and remember you get what you pay for! 5 Starr Builders of Texas and La. We build your pad for free, and have over 10,000 buildings on the ground!903 don’t be 407fooled by the rest 7627 there’s know company like ours
Got my addition foundation poured today in Wisconsin. 8” FOX ICF. Pumped a 4000 psi wall mix pea stone 6” slump went off without a hitch. External vibration(sawzalls) no blowouts great consolidation around window bucks. Thanks for all your content! I yelled here comes the mud!!!! 45 minutes late
hi sir, always fun to watch, finally found the actors name u sound like, M Emment Walsh
This on was my favorite!!! I need a 'here comes the mud' Tshirt🤣👍👍
Interesting. That’s a new one on me. Looks good. Thank you
That’s a pretty cool curb. I like it.
Something that I haven’t seen in a while (like 40 years) is where the garage door meets the floor is about an 1” or so lower than the main floor.
Back in ‘80, My dad and I built an addition onto the house with a 24’x24’ garage with kitchen and dining room above. Aroy was a buddy of my dad’s was a concrete finisher. He nailed a 2x3 to the form at the opening for the overhead door. When then overhead door closed in was just an 1-1/2” deeper and 3” inset relative to the rest of the garage floor. That inset for the door did seem to help keep the weather out quite a bit.
What did you do to separate the concrete from the steel siding? Concrete is corrosive and will cause the steel to rust away. Another reason they won't allow flashing against wood when pour a porch floor against rim joist. Been that way for many years. There is a black vinyl flashing for the purpose.
Jed clampett would call that a cement pond, looks like the driveway will make a nice funnel to get the water in.
I didn't notice any expansion joint and or barrier from concrete to wood or metal? Is it not needed? I was always under the impression to do so?
Enjoy your channel but I sure was happy you stopped doing the "mud scream montage" but I see it returned! Thank goodness for the right arrow key. :o)
Very nice job
Bondo I just did my first under floor heat job on my own 40x60 I used a new insolation product called Hitz Holter a German product made in the USA very easy to use comes in a 4'x24' section with vapor barrier on each side ,it has lines on the one side so layout of the tubes are simple .I also used the plastic staples to attach the tubing what a time saver from using steel cage and ty wraps. you should check it out .
Think they need a swale in the yard to keep the water away
HERE COMES THE MUD my wife says you need to say it more Mary jo 😂😂😂😂 Where's the Tuna been? 👍👊 Looking good bro
Hi Bondo….I have a question for you please? I am about to pour a 35’ by 60 foot slab for my garage(indoor). I am doing a 2 part monolithic pour…stem wall is done. I have #5 rebar around the perimeter in the “haunch” which I way oversized it. I have #4 rebar on 24” centers throughout. My average thickness will be 5 1/2” of 4000psi with 3/4” aggregate.
My question is this…control cuts…do they actually work? Especially on something like what I am pouring? I know it is going to crack regardless of what I do. But, with all that rebar I would think the cracks should be mostly hairline….and I can easily fill them as time goes on.
I am seeing mixed information….and basically, it seems like stress cuts made after 18 hours are pretty useless. The cracks have basically already started in the slab, and they will go where they want. I don’t have the means to do “green” cutting.
I would really appreciate your thoughts and experience on this.
Thank you….
Just rework the earth outside of the building - did a light ditch or ‘swale’ to carry the rainwater elsewhere. If that look is undesirable, dig a trench & fill it with a large perforated drain pipe & gravel & french drain the water away. Then use the indoor curb as insurance against a catastrophic rainfall.
Hello bando I just subscribe to your channel. And saw this video I was curious if how well it the curbs work if you could let me know???
Thanks. I have to admit that the curbs work well. They are a pain to pour them but one floor we did it on never even cracked and the customer wanted no saw cuts.
NICE. 👍
Just wondering if we’re getting some hunting videos
My shop has concrete in 2/3 of it. How bad is it to match up the existing concrete to finish the remaining 1/3 so its a smooth, flat, & level transition between new & old concrete?
Door wall with a curb. HMMMM!
I'm curious if the theory worked on the water ? I thought you would have finished the video showing if it worked
I wish this was close to me! I would come work a day with you for free just to see how you do every single step! I've done probably 30 foundations for houses but never any concrete slabs but always wanted to for some odd reason! Do y'all have to grade before you poor or is that done by someone else? Love the vid and the facts.
👍here comes the mud 🎶🎶🎶🎶
u always beat me here man. i just woke up too wtheck. jk much appreciated
@@GRUBB-MUDD good morning 36°here
@charles viner u see bondo even has a guy trying to spam him. I guess that is when you finally made it on youtube is when some1 makes a twlegram account of you that was created 5 hours ago lol
@@GRUBB-MUDD hey 👋, I'm getting messages from bondo, saying I won something and to contact them on Telegram
Won’t the concrete be corrosive against the steel?
👎 no
@@rags2richies146 yes it will. And the lumber that gets partially covered can rot also. Most counties would never let this pass for inspection. Even without expansion board it would never pass. Done residential and commercial concrete for 30 years.
Bondo did you have a drawing for a free gift?
How do I get you to do a job for me
I never seen wire under the plastic hardly any concrete got under the wire don't you want the wire in the middle of the pour?
the fiber concrete sux!!
and i’m very qualified to make that statement , why use the wire if your not going to pull it up? lots wrong with this. needs 6x6 poles 2x6 construction. your looking at the cheapest building you can build and remember you get what you pay for!
5 Starr Builders of Texas and La. We build your pad for free, and have over 10,000 buildings on the ground!903
don’t be 407fooled by the rest 7627 there’s know company like ours
Has anybody heard from Ron Bond? No videos no nothing. Hope everything's okay
So when you're coming up to Vermont to do my floor? LOL I know it's too far thanks for the video