Huge improvement!! Definitely keeping an eye on these TF2 Scottsdales. Hoping for a kit version at some point. Wish the Rallies and side mirrors were smaller. Maybe it's just me but both look too large relative to the body. Great videos and info on this truck. 👍
Yeah that is much better height man. Looks nice. To me it hit a nerve that they still kept the rear cab as the blazer and NOT a round corner like a truck. I hope One day they get all around right to justify the consumer expense!.
I removed the lift blocks and smallest leaf from each corner of my rust bucket blazer , lowered it down to usable height , more scale , more stable. Before that , it wasn’t even usable as a trail truck
Another awesome video. I love what you do. You inspired the 1/10 scale garage I'm making from Lincoln Logs and the tactical teardrop trailer I'm making from a wooden dish drainer. You should make an old aluminum and fiberglass "FarmTruck" style camper/topper for this thing. It also needs a blue bug deflector with the name of the truck on it. Maybe a well loved/cleaned everyday driver patina, something grandpa would drive to work then wash and wax it on the weekends; some parking lot dings, bubbling in wheel arches, and that sort of thing(not the Rust Bucket😂) . It's what I would do if I had the tools and vehicles.
They have different mounting block for the back of the Leaf spring there it leans forward more then the shackle won’t flip up and lock in place, I put a set on my marlin crawler and my limited edition blazer. Works great
Something to remember, it is pretty common on factory trucks to have the shocks leaning super far forward or backward, especially on full size '1/2 and 3/4' ton trucks. My mother's 90' Squarebody suburban has em leaning super far over and the shocks are absurdly long. The final stance looks good, I still think the track width is too narrow for a lifted truck, but makin' it any wider would do weird things to the scrub radius
Looks much better,if you want a bit softer rear and better shackle angle swap the frame mounts side to side,it made a night and day difference on my marlin,cool build,and love your rods
Not sure if you want your drip rails and window trim to be chrome or not, but if you don't want to use a paint pen and don't trust yourself with masking and spraying, you should give Bare Metal Foil a try. Not the most durable but I'm sure you'll take care of this body lol
I totally agree on your mods. Can’t you reverse the rear chassis to shackle blocks to 1 have the shackle pointing backwards and 2 it should lower a bit too..
For right now with this motor setup it won’t be a problem. I’ve set up a handful of these over the years. Once it softens I’ll add one back. Probably upgrade the motor and esc at the same time as well.
That thing would look good if u pop the hood and theres an Ls motor setting under there.😂 i still say a medium dark saddle brown for the seats and bottom half of dash and door panels and the top side black
I wouldn’t run those large rim myself, I sort of like the factory wheels, but it definitely looked cool on the model and on the full size trucks too. Again not my style but i dont mind seeing them.
I noticed on new Rc4wd trucks the rear springs are always arched really bad and even make the wheelbase not line up Only recently the newer trucks are coming like this now haha
They really have been arched more out of the box for about a year now. But it still takes about the same amount of driving to break them in. Which is still quite a lot. Lol
Ok buddy you just nailed. it For me it was not right seeing it right out of the box but now with your video stoped for a minute to get a better look I am loving it and will have to get myself one and add my frist square bodie to my gang of Yota's. Just asking can you swap out the back leaf hanger from left to right so they are backwards from how they look now to stop the shocklock from happening? Thanks for sharing your videos with us.
Those hangers are side specific the way the mount. BowhouseRC makes an different version I had on one of my rigs, but I know at some point RC4wd changed theirs as well. Not sure which these are.
Ive played around with it, they actually make blocks to help do it, only issues Ive had are the wheelbase changing as Ive tried to lower it. You might have to experiment with different length leaf springs to get the wheels lined up in the wheel well. It can be done though.
@@RCeveryday yeah, you did that. You will some of those old school bars that they would put on damn near everything in the 70 and 80 it would limit that from happening, i don’t know what they are called but it was used to prohibit that twisting of the leaf. Plus on this truck it might actually look good..
I haven’t been able to do much other than rc lately. I have a whole serious of camping / off grid type video from the past few years on the channel. Still has some rc in it.
I think it would, the 60 was almost too short in the rear. The new blazer that came out today has a new shock hoop for the rear that will work on the scottsdale as well, allow you to run the stock shocks with it lowered
I was looking at the k44’s for my gelande 2 as I find the Yota 2 just that bit to wide. Am I right in thinking that A, they are narrower and B, the spacing for the leaf mounts are still the same as the Yota 2? If not could you recommend a fix or another axle that might work better? As for lowering I flipped the axles (upside down) and mounted then leaf underaxle. For window trim/rubbers I find masking around the window outer and inner (with the glass in) works for me to keep a clean line for painting the rubbers.
So the k44 is the same dimensions as the yota2. Same width. The leaf mounts are in the same spot as well. There is a boom racing narrow “phat” axle that’s about the only production piece narrower I’ve seen.
@@RCeveryday thank you for confirming that. I’ve also looked at the boom racing PHAT80 axles, but from what I’ve seen there diff housing is centred and would more then likely hit the gearbox under compression?
@@fatfreddiescat9952 Phat axles are all centered from the factory. You can buy the lockouts and c hubs from other widths to build an offset drop. So you could buy an 80 and put a c hub and shaft for a 90 one side.
Them rc4wd fit on a red cat lowrider perfect
Huge improvement!! Definitely keeping an eye on these TF2 Scottsdales. Hoping for a kit version at some point. Wish the Rallies and side mirrors were smaller. Maybe it's just me but both look too large relative to the body. Great videos and info on this truck. 👍
This is the PERFECT height for it. I saw a video about the truck earlier, and my exact reaction was that it's too high. But this fixes that perfectly.
Yeah that is much better height man. Looks nice. To me it hit a nerve that they still kept the rear cab as the blazer and NOT a round corner like a truck. I hope One day they get all around right to justify the consumer expense!.
I removed the lift blocks and smallest leaf from each corner of my rust bucket blazer , lowered it down to usable height , more scale , more stable. Before that , it wasn’t even usable as a trail truck
On the rear I like to cut the back off the middle leaf and leave out the short one. Helps control axle wrap while keeping most of the flex.
Man this thing looks sikk, can’t wait for the next video, i dont own any rc4wd trucks but this one its gonna have to be the first one 🔥🔥
Yep. Now that stance looks awesome! That is a beautiful truck
No it's good to hear you want keep this one shiny. Gotta change it up time to time.
I just want to get one and you guys are already cutting it up!
That does look better at the lower height
Lowering it just a bit makes it look so much better, Its so nice to see a TF2 rtr with K44s We been asking for better axles for years over yoda ones,
The Rustbucket Blazer had the K44 long before the K10
Loving this truck eagre to see how it turns out buddy! 😁👍
Another awesome video. I love what you do. You inspired the 1/10 scale garage I'm making from Lincoln Logs and the tactical teardrop trailer I'm making from a wooden dish drainer.
You should make an old aluminum and fiberglass "FarmTruck" style camper/topper for this thing. It also needs a blue bug deflector with the name of the truck on it. Maybe a well loved/cleaned everyday driver patina, something grandpa would drive to work then wash and wax it on the weekends; some parking lot dings, bubbling in wheel arches, and that sort of thing(not the Rust Bucket😂) . It's what I would do if I had the tools and vehicles.
Man , I love that truck ! So cool
You can also paint the wipers chrome for scale looks
Those alignment shims have been around for a long while. I had a few sets I used on trucks 5-6+ years ago.
Looks perfect to me, like the look a lot 🎉
They have different mounting block for the back of the Leaf spring there it leans forward more then the shackle won’t flip up and lock in place, I put a set on my marlin crawler and my limited edition blazer. Works great
Something to remember, it is pretty common on factory trucks to have the shocks leaning super far forward or backward, especially on full size '1/2 and 3/4' ton trucks.
My mother's 90' Squarebody suburban has em leaning super far over and the shocks are absurdly long.
The final stance looks good, I still think the track width is too narrow for a lifted truck, but makin' it any wider would do weird things to the scrub radius
Looks much better,if you want a bit softer rear and better shackle angle swap the frame mounts side to side,it made a night and day difference on my marlin,cool build,and love your rods
Love it Josh!!!
I agree but looking scale is a matter of preference in regards to the type of stance slash type of truck…..just to bring clarity…love your stuff
The rear shackle mounts are backwards, if you turn them 180' your shackles will ride right.
Nice one love that color too🤙
Not sure if you want your drip rails and window trim to be chrome or not, but if you don't want to use a paint pen and don't trust yourself with masking and spraying, you should give Bare Metal Foil a try. Not the most durable but I'm sure you'll take care of this body lol
I totally agree on your mods. Can’t you reverse the rear chassis to shackle blocks to 1 have the shackle pointing backwards and 2 it should lower a bit too..
Looks just right now. 👍🏼
U may have already mentioned this but the door handles are missing the little black square thumb button used to open the doors with.
Love it
Super cool, also want to let you know I got my rat Rod body today it is beautiful dude love it
Awesome brother! Glad it made
It safely.
I love this truck im hoping that the v8 and transmission will fit this like in the blazer
They will fit it, that’s all still the same for tf2’s
Someone should make longer leaf packs kinda like we do on full size rigs.
I would run at least the medium spring on-top of the main leaf to help combat axle wrap.....its going to be really bad with one leaf.
For right now with this motor setup it won’t be a problem. I’ve set up a handful of these over the years. Once it softens I’ll add one back. Probably upgrade the motor and esc at the same time as well.
Love it❤
Spray the bed with rubber under coating. Makes it pop.
That thing would look good if u pop the hood and theres an Ls motor setting under there.😂 i still say a medium dark saddle brown for the seats and bottom half of dash and door panels and the top side black
Nice. You mentioned scale hardware. Who makes scale hardware? Thanks.
I use LockedupRC
What if you turn the rear shackle mount 180? Prefent from Locking?
flip your rear spring hanger
It needs 1.5 groundhogs
Take rear frame spring mount off and go spring shackle only
Are you going to bolt the Rc4wd scale 350 in it? If I buy one I’ll have too
🤣🤣🤣 I bout stopped watching when I saw them first rims! Be careful with that! 🤣🤣🤣👍🏻👍🏻
No sir not for me with those other wheels and tires. I think it looks great the way it comes!
I wouldn’t run those large rim myself, I sort of like the factory wheels, but it definitely looked cool on the model and on the full size trucks too. Again not my style but i dont mind seeing them.
I was just wondering where I can purchase a truck like this
Rc4wd.com
I noticed on new Rc4wd trucks the rear springs are always arched really bad and even make the wheelbase not line up
Only recently the newer trucks are coming like this now haha
They really have been arched more out of the box for about a year now. But it still takes about the same amount of driving to break them in. Which is still quite a lot. Lol
Ok buddy you just nailed. it For me it was not right seeing it right out of the box but now with your video stoped for a minute to get a better look I am loving it and will have to get myself one and add my frist square bodie to my gang of Yota's. Just asking can you swap out the back leaf hanger from left to right so they are backwards from how they look now to stop the shocklock from happening? Thanks for sharing your videos with us.
Those hangers are side specific the way the mount. BowhouseRC makes an different version I had on one of my rigs, but I know at some point RC4wd changed theirs as well. Not sure which these are.
@@RCeveryday I have the one's from RC4WD on my Marlin that stopped the locking up. Why they don't have them on from the beginning is beyond me.
Thought they had 70mm rear shocks. Not 90mm
Im not sure, they were still too long after lowering at the 60mm are perfect
How difficult would it be to move the springs under the axle? I'd like to get closer to a stock height. I'm not opposed to putting 1.55's on it.
Ive played around with it, they actually make blocks to help do it, only issues Ive had are the wheelbase changing as Ive tried to lower it. You might have to experiment with different length leaf springs to get the wheels lined up in the wheel well. It can be done though.
Why lower it? , it's perfect that way .
Could you leave the one leaf and use the coil spring? I am thinking the coil spring is the best suspension spring.
You could. But with just one leaf it could cause axle wrap.
@@RCeveryday yeah, you did that. You will some of those old school bars that they would put on damn near everything in the 70 and 80 it would limit that from happening, i don’t know what they are called but it was used to prohibit that twisting of the leaf. Plus on this truck it might actually look good..
What other interests do you have buddy? We would be interested to know 👍👍
I haven’t been able to do much other than rc lately. I have a whole serious of camping / off grid type video from the past few years on the channel. Still has some rc in it.
would a 70mm shock work good on it with it lowered?
I think it would, the 60 was almost too short in the rear. The new blazer that came out today has a new shock hoop for the rear that will work on the scottsdale as well, allow you to run the stock shocks with it lowered
Can you put one in the Amazon cantilever shock kits on the back? I used ons on one of my just so i could use a hard body drop bed.
You could, but it wouldnt really be necessary with the leaf springs
Do you have a link for the shocks?
store.rc4wd.com/rc4wd-bilstein-sz-series-60mm-scale-shock-absorbers.html
I was looking at the k44’s for my gelande 2 as I find the Yota 2 just that bit to wide. Am I right in thinking that A, they are narrower and B, the spacing for the leaf mounts are still the same as the Yota 2? If not could you recommend a fix or another axle that might work better? As for lowering I flipped the axles (upside down) and mounted then leaf underaxle. For window trim/rubbers I find masking around the window outer and inner (with the glass in) works for me to keep a clean line for painting the rubbers.
So the k44 is the same dimensions as the yota2. Same width. The leaf mounts are in the same spot as well. There is a boom racing narrow “phat” axle that’s about the only production piece narrower I’ve seen.
@@RCeveryday thank you for confirming that. I’ve also looked at the boom racing PHAT80 axles, but from what I’ve seen there diff housing is centred and would more then likely hit the gearbox under compression?
I’ve not had any so I can’t confirm. But that wouldn’t surprise me.
@@fatfreddiescat9952 Phat axles are all centered from the factory. You can buy the lockouts and c hubs from other widths to build an offset drop. So you could buy an 80 and put a c hub and shaft for a 90 one side.
It's too bad RC4WD put the servo on the wrong side of the truck. Would solve uptravel issues and be more realistic, too.