Just a tip I found when removing adhesive bed liners. Most of the time @120c, if you peel real slow (your gonna needs gloves for this, because its hot!) the liner will remove fully leaving little to no residue at all. But if you do get residue left behind after you peel it off like in this video. I found that taking a piece of blue painters tape and dabbing it on the residue does an excellent job of removing the mess. (I also did this with a warm build plate.) I thought about trying out a pet hair/lint remover (you know... the sticky sheets on a roller), but I haven't had to remove my build-tak sheet in quite sometime. I've done the acetone and scraper bit, and it's no fun at all. The blue painters tape is much faster and easier way to clean up. (In my opinion)
I have the Anicubic Chiron - 400mm X 400mm - comes stock with this Amazing BED! LOVE it - simply no issues if bed is leveled correctly, Bed temp set correctly - and - WAIT for it to COOL before try to remove parts. I print Mostly PLA and PETG - Bed runs about 60C, I dont even try to touch it until below 40c - most often I hear it 'popping' as it is 'breaking' free of the bed, then, just pick it up : ) PERFECT!
put a sheet of this on my anet a8. and after hundreds of prints there is only a tiny area where the coating came off. other than this it works like brand new. the only downside is you MUST heat your bed for pla to stick. 63c is what i find is perfect.
Great video! I would like to purchase the ultrabase for my CR-10 but can't find the right dimensions in the link in the description. Could you share the direct link you used for your CR-10? Thanks a lot
wish mine was as good as urs .. :( i cant ptint above 100mm in height without the print coming unstuck and sticking to the nozzle !! how did you manage to print that huge print at the end ??? what heat settings and speed settings did you use .. this bed is great with anything under 100 mm but over and it comes unstuck and gets thrown around the bed .. i have given up printing anything larger than 100mm high now thinking of ditching the whole thing !! :( :( :(
It’s maybe early to ask, but how do you remove this support ? As you noticed, it’s already quite difficult to remove a buildtak film, so a hard glass may broke into pieces ?
Hey, i am wondering if replacing the nozzle is a possible thing to do using this printer? I understand it has 0.4mm nozzle tip, but does that mean any 0.4mm is compatible with this printer? Or some upgrades needed to do so? Please help!
Yes of course! You can change nozzle to other size as well. All V6 nozzle fits just nice or any M6 Thread nozzle with 1.75mm Filament should also fit. You don't need any upgrades to change nozzle size.
Me too, still maybe they have not released it to the public :(, on the other hand I can not find any version of this printer (i3 mega) with sensor like the reviewers have.
I have the same bed (brand new, just bought it last week) but for the life of me I cannot get the first layer to stick like yours. Could you please share your serting for PLA ? ( speed and feed, bed and nozzle temp) thank you so much
Marion Cravens I did not use Inductive sensor for leveling. I most use Manual adjusting. That's why all I3 now dont have sensor no more. Its better this way.
Bought a Ultrabase for my CR-10s and my first PLA print didnt hold in place... than i used the spray and it hold in place but i think now my ultrabase is destroyed while i tried to remove the old spray...
@@NexiTech wow. I'm assuming it's a sealed room? At 30C I get constant layer seperation due to shrinkage from air currrents. I agree the ultrabase is good though. Considering this video's from 2017, is yours still usable? Or have you had to replace it? I jist purchased one and while I'm impressed with its adhesion, I've not been able to find any reports of their expected life.
Joe Well no, I have constant ventilation in every room. For these small type prints you don't need any enclosure for ABS but for bigger models yes you do,ABS warps like crazy. I have modified my Tronxy X5SA and made Plexiglas enclosure where I can easily reach constant 50C. Check videos on my channel there are alot of useful info. Also If you don't damage your Ultrabase physically you can use it for very long time. Only remove prints when it's cold and don't use anu sharp metal object and make sure that nozzle is not rubbing on the surface. P.S. Avoid ABS print with it only if you must. PETG is the way to go. For me personally best and easiest material to print is PETG.
Michael Kühn Yeah the sensor won't work with Ultrabase and that's why Newest I3 mega don't have it installed. It's not a big of the deal as Autolevel on I3 Mega is only assistants level so you don't actually need it.
This heatbed is only for PLA. ABS (and ABS+): Totally pain to get the first layer right (Yes, it works, after the 3rd -10th try and nearly carving the board) PETG: Many owners said PETG can't be removed well and many of them damaged the board. So sorry: PLA will stick on a cheap 3 USD/EUR glass platform as well as on this one, so there is really no benefit.
matthias lichtenegger but he tried abs on this and it printed fine. Also, this surface is supposed to adhere with no hairspray, glue etc., then release easily once cold
Anyone knows what type of thermistor the Anycubic Ultrabase platform has installed? I need to configure it in my Marlin configuration, my printer type is Graber I3
i have problem with my ultrabase on cr10 , skirt dont hold on plate then all printing goes wrong.. dont know what to do .. i tried 50-60 celsius temperature but did not help.. also calibrate desk.. any suggestion ?
Spenat1k 70C? Clean the Ultrabase with alcohol and re-level the printer using A4 paper. Drag your X carriage over ultrabase and look distance from nozzle to Ultrabase to confirm that is level correctly.
Nithin K I3 Mega use proxy sensor for asistant bed leveling or sound levelling. That means insted of paper you have probe wich beep when you do your "manual" leveling and nozzle is on right distance from the bed. If you have any experience you don't ever need probe or sensor for bed leveling. Just A4 paper sometimes and if you printing ever day after I wille you will get feeling and than you dont even need anything to level you heat bed just eyes.
John Shillinglaw Yes of course. Under video description you have link for Ultrabase. There you can choose corn/less model if you don't want to go full size ULTRABASE like I did on my I3 Mega and Anet A6. BTW check my ugrades for A8 or A6 you will see how to convert screws on heated bed to not movable and after that you dont need screwdriver for bed leveling. You can level it with knob like I have on A8,A6 and I3 Mega.
I use Ultra-base and similar pattern glass surface for very long time now and I have it on many 3D printers, the last one that come with with it is Creality Cr10 V2 and this surface still holds very good over time. If you level the printer correctly and you don't stretch the surface overtime and you remove prints only when it's hold it can last very long time. I only clean it from time to time with window cleaning solution(Blue one), I found that alcohol can wipe off surface after long term use.
@@NexiTech Do you use it 24/7?Maybe you got lucky,i already ruined 3 ultrabases...if you use comercially you will loose grip or get a chunk out of the base...but this happens only with petg.With pla it only looses grip...and if you do a search through the web tou will see that its a common issue
The problem is that it's a consumable, rated for a year of use. mine after a few month is already fading... a few minutte particule stick to the print, and over time none are left on the glass, not wating for it to cool, worsen the effect.
Mälsåker Lures Well maybe but it can be little problems with probe sensitivity on some printers not every proxy probe will support it and you have to add Z offset in Cura by glass thickness.
Paulo Silva Yes and thats the point of the test. I was impressed how well ULTRABASE hold down material in place even with so much offset. Great printing surface.
did you have some problem levelling this bed printer? i had a lot! never the same in every corner, the center is always lower! i read that there is problem with the rail alignment as you can see in this video: ruclips.net/video/ZKN3xifTyxI/видео.html
Here is UltraBase for Cr10!
ULTRABASE FOR CR10/S goo.gl/3bpVik
ULTRABASE regular size: goo.gl/64maiw
Nexi Tech Could you notify when it's available?
Motion 0112 Yes of course.
Just a tip I found when removing adhesive bed liners. Most of the time @120c, if you peel real slow (your gonna needs gloves for this, because its hot!) the liner will remove fully leaving little to no residue at all. But if you do get residue left behind after you peel it off like in this video. I found that taking a piece of blue painters tape and dabbing it on the residue does an excellent job of removing the mess. (I also did this with a warm build plate.) I thought about trying out a pet hair/lint remover (you know... the sticky sheets on a roller), but I haven't had to remove my build-tak sheet in quite sometime. I've done the acetone and scraper bit, and it's no fun at all. The blue painters tape is much faster and easier way to clean up. (In my opinion)
Grant Deisig Thanks for tip I will give a try next time. Cheers.
Your image of the printing is so good that's a pleasure to see it!
Thank you! :)
Excellent review, thanks! Hope I can get it for Flashforge
I have the Anicubic Chiron - 400mm X 400mm - comes stock with this Amazing BED! LOVE it - simply no issues if bed is leveled correctly, Bed temp set correctly - and - WAIT for it to COOL before try to remove parts. I print Mostly PLA and PETG - Bed runs about 60C, I dont even try to touch it until below 40c - most often I hear it 'popping' as it is 'breaking' free of the bed, then, just pick it up : ) PERFECT!
Blade Dreams This Chiron? :)
ruclips.net/video/goY6slY4Ryc/видео.html
Hi, Can you share the PETG settings on Chiron? I always have warping issue. Thanks in advance.
Nice job, saw this after ordering from Amazon a heater + anycubic ultrabase for my i3 clone. Looking forward to tossing out all the bed goo etc!
i hope they make a 500 by 500 version of this
put a sheet of this on my anet a8. and after hundreds of prints there is only a tiny area where the coating came off. other than this it works like brand new.
the only downside is you MUST heat your bed for pla to stick. 63c is what i find is perfect.
lefthandedpolack I never heat my bed for pla and it sticks
How did you put it on CR10? can you make some reference or video on that setup?
Thank you for this Review, just ordered one for my Wanhao i3
the German Printing Nerd You welcome mate! :)
Cool.. print abs on openframe? Do you use stock hot end ?
Great video! I would like to purchase the ultrabase for my CR-10 but can't find the right dimensions in the link in the description. Could you share the direct link you used for your CR-10? Thanks a lot
ULTRABASE FOR CR10! goo.gl/5EjA2e
Thanks Nexi ,great review! Is this also available +round+ ? ø300mm for a Rostock Max V2
Great Video Nexi! Good stuff as always ;) you are a big inspiration for me
3D Makerbear Thank you so much mate! That means alot to me! Best regards. Nexi
you should try to put auto bed leveling on the kossel ( unrelated to the video but just thought i would mention it )
this is amazing! but I can only find the ones with cuted corners, where didi you get yours?
Short to Ground Check links in video description in Anycubic store you have full heat-bed size.
Why do you recommend the binder clips for the CR-10 instead of the adhesion?
Hi Nexi, can you still use the auto leveler please?
What about using it without heated bed? Did you tried PLA/ABS with the ultrabase cold? Can you try it and let us know if not? Great video, BTW!
wish mine was as good as urs .. :( i cant ptint above 100mm in height without the print coming unstuck and sticking to the nozzle !! how did you manage to print that huge print at the end ??? what heat settings and speed settings did you use ..
this bed is great with anything under 100 mm but over and it comes unstuck and gets thrown around the bed .. i have given up printing anything larger than 100mm high now thinking of ditching the whole thing !! :( :( :(
I put one few days ago on my Anet E10. I lost some print bed, but this is awesome :-D
PLAYNIMATIONS Nice work. I agreed! Its great :)
It’s maybe early to ask, but how do you remove this support ? As you noticed, it’s already quite difficult to remove a buildtak film, so a hard glass may broke into pieces ?
You can use gitar wire for exemple.
Thanks Nexi Tech, very good explanation of the upgrade ( Mine came with the Ultrabase ) +one sub for you. Cheers, JAYTEE
Hey, i am wondering if replacing the nozzle is a possible thing to do using this printer? I understand it has 0.4mm nozzle tip, but does that mean any 0.4mm is compatible with this printer? Or some upgrades needed to do so?
Please help!
Yes of course! You can change nozzle to other size as well. All V6 nozzle fits just nice or any M6 Thread nozzle with 1.75mm Filament should also fit. You don't need any upgrades to change nozzle size.
Thanks, so can you get a 300x300 as well? (Cr-10 user)
I can't find any links on aliexpress, great video by the way
+Peter Malakawi i searched too for a 300mm version but found nothing...
Me too, still maybe they have not released it to the public :(, on the other hand I can not find any version of this printer (i3 mega) with sensor like the reviewers have.
I cannot find it either.
ULTRABASE FOR CR10! goo.gl/5EjA2e
I have the same bed (brand new, just bought it last week) but for the life of me I cannot get the first layer to stick like yours. Could you please share your serting for PLA ? ( speed and feed, bed and nozzle temp) thank you so much
My temp is around 210 celcius for the nozle
The bed around 70 celcius
Idk the speed i use
Did you have to do any adjustments with your inductive sensor when using that new plate?
Marion Cravens I did not use Inductive sensor for leveling. I most use Manual adjusting. That's why all I3 now dont have sensor no more. Its better this way.
Bought a Ultrabase for my CR-10s and my first PLA print didnt hold in place... than i used the spray and it hold in place but i think now my ultrabase is destroyed while i tried to remove the old spray...
I have a 12mm sensor that does not make a contact on glass or on the base. will this make it work or do i need another auto level sensor?
If you're printing in ABS with no enclosure, what's your ambient temperature? Any breezes?
Joe In this video? Ambient temperature was 22 degrades.
@@NexiTech wow. I'm assuming it's a sealed room? At 30C I get constant layer seperation due to shrinkage from air currrents.
I agree the ultrabase is good though. Considering this video's from 2017, is yours still usable? Or have you had to replace it? I jist purchased one and while I'm impressed with its adhesion, I've not been able to find any reports of their expected life.
Joe Well no, I have constant ventilation in every room.
For these small type prints you don't need any enclosure for ABS but for bigger models yes you do,ABS warps like crazy.
I have modified my Tronxy X5SA and made Plexiglas enclosure where I can easily reach constant 50C. Check videos on my channel there are alot of useful info. Also If you don't damage your Ultrabase physically you can use it for very long time. Only remove prints when it's cold and don't use anu sharp metal object and make sure that nozzle is not rubbing on the surface.
P.S. Avoid ABS print with it only if you must. PETG is the way to go. For me personally best and easiest material to print is PETG.
Review on Ender 3d portable printer
Hello, where you able to use the inductive sensor for abl on this glas on alloy.
Do you have any problem with the leveling sensor using the ultrabase? I've read on the internet, that sensors won't work properly?x
Michael Kühn Yeah the sensor won't work with Ultrabase and that's why Newest I3 mega don't have it installed. It's not a big of the deal as Autolevel on I3 Mega is only assistants level so you don't actually need it.
Awesome video!!!
REDxFROG Thanks man! :)
This heatbed is only for PLA.
ABS (and ABS+): Totally pain to get the first layer right (Yes, it works, after the 3rd -10th try and nearly carving the board)
PETG: Many owners said PETG can't be removed well and many of them damaged the board.
So sorry: PLA will stick on a cheap 3 USD/EUR glass platform as well as on this one, so there is really no benefit.
matthias lichtenegger but he tried abs on this and it printed fine. Also, this surface is supposed to adhere with no hairspray, glue etc., then release easily once cold
Anyone knows what type of thermistor the Anycubic Ultrabase platform has installed? I need to configure it in my Marlin configuration, my printer type is Graber I3
Where I can buy the auto level for the anycubic i3?
i have problem with my ultrabase on cr10 , skirt dont hold on plate then all printing goes wrong.. dont know what to do .. i tried 50-60 celsius temperature but did not help.. also calibrate desk.. any suggestion ?
Spenat1k 70C? Clean the Ultrabase with alcohol and re-level the printer using A4 paper. Drag your X carriage over ultrabase and look distance from nozzle to Ultrabase to confirm that is level correctly.
I will try 70c and re-level again.... A4 must be smooth goes under nozzle right ?
why does your bed move to the back when finished? shouldn't it move to the front
Mark M That's standard G code. You can add code for heated bed to move where ever you like.
Why youre manually leveling the heat bed?? wont the sensor work on this print bed?
Nithin K I3 Mega use proxy sensor for asistant bed leveling or sound levelling. That means insted of paper you have probe wich beep when you do your "manual" leveling and nozzle is on right distance from the bed. If you have any experience you don't ever need probe or sensor for bed leveling. Just A4 paper sometimes and if you printing ever day after I wille you will get feeling and than you dont even need anything to level you heat bed just eyes.
Ohh great!! Thank you for the response. :)
Nithin K You are welcome :)
How does this work with a printer like the anet a8 that has screws in the corners of the bed?
John Shillinglaw Yes of course. Under video description you have link for Ultrabase. There you can choose corn/less model if you don't want to go full size ULTRABASE like I did on my I3 Mega and Anet A6. BTW check my ugrades for A8 or A6 you will see how to convert screws on heated bed to not movable and after that you dont need screwdriver for bed leveling. You can level it with knob like I have on A8,A6 and I3 Mega.
The issue here is that you will loose that adhesion very quickly...or get a chunk out sticked to a petg part
I use Ultra-base and similar pattern glass surface for very long time now and I have it on many 3D printers, the last one that come with with it is Creality Cr10 V2 and this surface still holds very good over time. If you level the printer correctly and you don't stretch the surface overtime and you remove prints only when it's hold it can last very long time. I only clean it from time to time with window cleaning solution(Blue one), I found that alcohol can wipe off surface after long term use.
@@NexiTech Do you use it 24/7?Maybe you got lucky,i already ruined 3 ultrabases...if you use comercially you will loose grip or get a chunk out of the base...but this happens only with petg.With pla it only looses grip...and if you do a search through the web tou will see that its a common issue
The problem is that it's a consumable, rated for a year of use. mine after a few month is already fading...
a few minutte particule stick to the print, and over time none are left on the glass, not wating for it to cool, worsen the effect.
You got it perfectly. Lasts me maybe 6 months if I'm very careful then it needs to be replaced.
This works with the autobedleveling?
Mälsåker Lures Well maybe but it can be little problems with probe sensitivity on some printers not every proxy probe will support it and you have to add Z offset in Cura by glass thickness.
where did you get tue ultrabase for the cr10?
Parallax Visuals It will be release soon.
ULTRABASE FOR CR10! goo.gl/5EjA2e
this works for all printers with this size bed?
allgoraro Pretty much yes. But You can't use it with 3D printer with autolevel sensor as it can't sense the heatbed thru the glass.
Thanks, we ordered one for our Tronxy.
allgoraro Cool. You welcome mate :) Am glad that I helped.
... and removing the sticker is more easy with the alcohol under Foil for 10 minutes to soften the remainings of the sticker.
The auto calibration works?
OSMO You mean leveling assistent? No it doesn't.
So far so good xD
What slicer is that?
Link to buy UltraBase for Anycubic i3 MEga
TutoDS Look in video description.
Hey, i tested between 50-70°C on the bed. But i always get a little bit of warping (PLA/white/DasFilament). Do you have any suggestions, what to try?
Michael Pinjusic Try to lower first layer higher or re-level your bad and clean it with 99% alcohol. It should be good after.
isn't that nozzle to far from the bed?
Paulo Silva Yes and thats the point of the test. I was impressed how well ULTRABASE hold down material in place even with so much offset. Great printing surface.
bed 110ºC nozzle 230ºC
i really dont understand. i break my anycubic bed in the second prit. i hate this bed
How did you menage to do that? These glass beds can last for years.
Here's a tip: Ultrabase cannot be cut. I found out the not cheap way.
did you have some problem levelling this bed printer? i had a lot! never the same in every corner, the center is always lower! i read that there is problem with the rail alignment as you can see in this video: ruclips.net/video/ZKN3xifTyxI/видео.html
My new i3 mega was 50% banana rods . And warped bracket+ heated bed. Impossible to level. how can they approve this crap and sell it .
In my case not work anyone
$25 not 25$
Please use the USA currency symbol correctly.
GeoDroidJohn yeah $ is only for USA
You signed Metric Conversion Act and yet not using it so why are you so bothered with the currency symbol?