Appreciate the comment! Not my vehicle, but I definitely will be the one doing any maintenance or repairs if anything comes up on this thing! So definitely a chance for more videos in the future
Finally, a direct, to the point video with actual torque settings!! And provides important details on both retracting the piston AND returning it to position! Much more confidant in helping a family member with this same car. Crazy to pay dealer prices for a reasonably DIY project.
A+++++ Nice tutorial video. Much appreciated! Worried on the length of the time but glad I spent the time to watch all of the details and explanations prior to tackling the job on our 2016 TLX. I have worked on her car already a few times but I'm always thinking that I can learn new tricks for sure, which I did learn a few from your video. Thanks agan and nice job!!!
Thank you for the video, perfectly explain and direct to the point! Did my son 2019 Acura 6-cycl TLX today! Use the scan tool for the EPB, save a few mins. Both front rotor screws really got me good! I heat up the screw, use the JIS # 3 with drill bit and still couldn't get it out. Use all type of VESSEL impact tool, still couldn't get it out! The screw head got stripped pretty good...finally took a large screw driver, then tap the head to get a dimpel, so that I can hammer it out. Took me about 45 mins to get 1 front out. Heat, tap, heat, tap, and long and behold it came loose.. I've found that to remove the rear top caliper bracket (next to ball joint) you can use 3/8 17mm socket to a 2- inch 3/8 to 1/2 adapter driver then use the 1/2 ratchet to remove it. I tried using a 17mm long wrench, it will not bulge. You may need to remove the 11mm brake line connector to get the 1/2 ratchet in there. My son have a 3.5L V6 and would love to see a video of the spark plugs replacement. I got the same PowerStop Geomet rotors, how do you like them? Also, keep the video coming and thank you for making this video, it has help me greatly!
@@TheOriginalBeeCee They look great! 1st using using PS Geomet. I've seen alot of people spray 'brake cleaner' on them instead of soap and water. They did not have any oily residual on them, so it's open and put it on.
Just finished doing his rears. I would have been in the weeds if not for this video. I think I did them faster than my BMW's brakes (I didnt do rotors this time around but next time). Brake pad wear was very even on originals. I replaced with Akebonos. That's all I use. Thanks so much again. I was able to teach him as well now! Happy New Year!@TheOriginalBeeCee
Hey I loved the video. I’m going to try to change my own brakes for the first time as I wanna explore my handy work lol. I see some people using a scanner tool to put the EBP in electronic mode. Is what you showed an alternative to that? Because I don’t have the scan tool to do that.
Yes, what I showed is the alternative to using a scanner. It’s just manually doing it instead of activating it electronically. Good luck with the project, lmk how it goes!
They are sold individually. However, they are also offered in kits which is how these were purchased. I got the entire front & rear kit with pads, but they also offer them in just front set, or just rear.
Did you install the inside rear pad with the wear sensor on the wrong side of the car? I think should be on the driver’s rear inside. Doesn’t really make a difference though. Great video 👍🏼.
Appreciate the comment. But nope, everything was done correctly as intended. This particular PowerStop kit had wear sensors on both sides. You can verify this with the picture of the product on RockAuto: www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/acura,2018,tlx,2.4l+l4,3437230,brake+&+wheel+hub,rotor+&+brake+pad+kit,13824 …part # CRK7216 …some brands include sensors on both sides, some just one. Doesn’t really matter, and as you said side really doesn’t matter either. Just a product design choice. Some manufacturers include both sides, some only one. All that really matters is traditionally on all applications the wear sensor goes on the inside. 🤙
Yes wear sensor only on 2 of the 4 rear pads. Looking only at the rear pads with the wear sensor closely at rockauto, there appears a difference from left and right rear inner pads. The wear sensor should be at the bottom for the rear pads for your particular car.
How you worded your initial reply, it seemed as if you were referring to only 1 of the 4 rear pads having a wear sensor.....which some setups/ brands do only have 1 on one side. But yes, it has wear sensors on 2 of the 4 pads. But…you’re absolutely right my friend. That sensor should be on the bottom. I actually detail for Acura now (didn’t when video was made)…..and I pulled up workflow diagram in the shop and they are indicated on bottom. Guess I wasn’t paying attention and was more focused on making the video. Oh well, I’m human unfortunately lol.
I recently replaced my wife’s Honda CRV brake pads and has a similar floating brake caliper design but without electronic parking brake. These RUclips videos are immensely helpful for me. Be safe my friend.
i just bought Wagner brake pads for my 2015 TLX and i notice that they don't come with brake pad retaining springs right before you slap on the caliper. is that going to be a problem? BTW this is the best video by far. thank you!
You can if it makes you feel better, but most definitely don’t have to, and I don’t. In fact, most FSM’s / Haynes recommend siphoning (turkey baster) some fluid out of reservoir, to prevent it overflowing from compressing. I actually don’t even do that though. What i’ve been doing for a little while that I really like is after I’m done each corner, go back in car and pump brakes a few times….and build the pedal back up stiff to get all the fluid basically back in the corner. Haven’t had any fluid overflow yet or anything utilizing this method. And i could be crazy, but I think it helps to really have an even better nice solid stiff pedal when the job is done.
Found out the hard way today that screw is no joke! Car is 5 years old in the northeast. The front rotors screw just would not bulge no matter what I do! I ended up completely stripping the screw head! Then I took a good screwdriver and make a dimpel on the top of the strip screw, then heat, tap, heat, tap and 40 minutes later it finally came loose. Each time I heated the screw for about 40 seconds. Make sure you have patience!
I picked up a 2017 V6 TLX - Regular Oil changes, trans fluid swaps and 1 owner. 80,000 miles. however: Owners never replaced rotors or pads. the assembly rotor screws were not coming out with heat or extraction - took it to my local - 50$ took all 4 out -> in case you run into this, anyone....
![Noob To Max With DRAGON REWORK In Blox Fruits [FULL MOVIE]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/LnBMOinoOvA/mqdefault.jpg)
Not many tlx maintenance vids on YT, more would be appreciated.
This is the most thorough brake job of this car on YT.
Appreciate the comment! Not my vehicle, but I definitely will be the one doing any maintenance or repairs if anything comes up on this thing! So definitely a chance for more videos in the future
Finally, a direct, to the point video with actual torque settings!! And provides important details on both retracting the piston AND returning it to position! Much more confidant in helping a family member with this same car. Crazy to pay dealer prices for a reasonably DIY project.
Thank you for the comment! Truly appreciated! Good luck with the project!
I love this video, perfectly in depth and helpful for everything you should be looking for, and giving the professional tips as well. Thank you man
I appreciate the comment man thank you!
Great video! Doing brakes on this car will be so much easier now with a super thorough step by step video.
Appreciate the comment! Good luck with the job 👍👍
A+++++ Nice tutorial video. Much appreciated! Worried on the length of the time but glad I spent the time to watch all of the details and explanations prior to tackling the job on our 2016 TLX. I have worked on her car already a few times but I'm always thinking that I can learn new tricks for sure, which I did learn a few from your video. Thanks agan and nice job!!!
Great to hear! Thanks for the comment, definitely appreciate it!!
Thank you for the video, perfectly explain and direct to the point! Did my son 2019 Acura 6-cycl TLX today! Use the scan tool for the EPB, save a few mins. Both front rotor screws really got me good! I heat up the screw, use the JIS # 3 with drill bit and still couldn't get it out. Use all type of VESSEL impact tool, still couldn't get it out! The screw head got stripped pretty good...finally took a large screw driver, then tap the head to get a dimpel, so that I can hammer it out. Took me about 45 mins to get 1 front out. Heat, tap, heat, tap, and long and behold it came loose..
I've found that to remove the rear top caliper bracket (next to ball joint) you can use 3/8 17mm socket to a 2- inch 3/8 to 1/2 adapter driver then use the 1/2 ratchet to remove it. I tried using a 17mm long wrench, it will not bulge. You may need to remove the 11mm brake line connector to get the 1/2 ratchet in there.
My son have a 3.5L V6 and would love to see a video of the spark plugs replacement. I got the same PowerStop Geomet rotors, how do you like them? Also, keep the video coming and thank you for making this video, it has help me greatly!
Appreciate the comment! I love the PS Geo’s, I use them virtually on all applications. Probably installed a 100 full sets by now.
@@TheOriginalBeeCee They look great! 1st using using PS Geomet. I've seen alot of people spray 'brake cleaner' on them instead of soap and water. They did not have any oily residual on them, so it's open and put it on.
Yea exactly. No need to brake cleaner them, not like Autozone or advance rotors that come drenched in oil.
Best DIY video I've seen...and I do a LOT of DIY! Great work!
Thanks a lot! I definitely appreciate the comment 🙏
Best brake video ever. Good job. Subscribing now. I have a 2017 TLX with the 4 cyl.
Thanks for the comment man! I appreciate it 🙏
Need to do this on my son n law's TLX. Thanks for an extremely clear and easy to follow tutorial!
Awesome good luck with the job, thanks for the comment 🙏
Just finished doing his rears. I would have been in the weeds if not for this video. I think I did them faster than my BMW's brakes (I didnt do rotors this time around but next time). Brake pad wear was very even on originals. I replaced with Akebonos. That's all I use. Thanks so much again. I was able to teach him as well now! Happy New Year!@TheOriginalBeeCee
Awesome to hear man! Happy new years! 🎊
Good job, man. To the point, you make look easy.
Appreciate the comment man thank you
This video is fantastic. Appreciate your precision and know-how. 👍🏼
Appreciate the comment!!! 🙏🙏
This pretty cool and straight forward, these brakes are different because of the torx 47 which i don't have but will get. Thanks for upload.
Appreciate the comment!
Thanks dude. Especially for the torch trick.
👍👍👍👍👍
Great video with clear and concise demo and explanation..
Appreciate the comment!
Thank you for the very helpful video. Did the front brakes on mine today and it worked out great.
Awesome! Glad to hear. Appreciate the comment!
What a fantastic video. Thank you. Very thorough.
Thank you! Appreciate the comment
Hey I loved the video. I’m going to try to change my own brakes for the first time as I wanna explore my handy work lol. I see some people using a scanner tool to put the EBP in electronic mode. Is what you showed an alternative to that? Because I don’t have the scan tool to do that.
Yes, what I showed is the alternative to using a scanner. It’s just manually doing it instead of activating it electronically. Good luck with the project, lmk how it goes!
Video was helpful, now I can do my rotors and brakes in peace
🙏🙏🙏🙏
Great video. Looking forward to doing this on my 2018 TLX. Appreciate it. Thanks Neil
Thanks for the comment! Good luck on the replacement 👍👍
Great video. Do I need to release the electronic parking brake before doing the job?
Yes the parking brake should not be engaged!
Dude, this is a great vid!!!! Thanks for doing it!
Thank you! Appreciate the comment!
Great video. Do you need to bleed the lines after reassemble?
You do not have to, but something to definitely consider regarding the condition of the fluid. If its old/original, and/or dark, etc
THANKS I am fixing to replace mine this weekend
👍👍👍 good luck with the job
Nice & detailed 👍🏼. Was the E-brake engaged or disengaged before you removed the actuator?
Appreciate it man! E-brake should be disengaged when doing this, and really any rear brake job for that matter 👍
Great video. I have a 2017 TLX V6 base. Does the JBR1589EVC come in pairs (left and right), or do I need to order 2 rotors (JBR1589EVC)? Thanks!
They are sold individually. However, they are also offered in kits which is how these were purchased. I got the entire front & rear kit with pads, but they also offer them in just front set, or just rear.
This is a great video. It made me realize I rather pay someone to do this lol… I don’t have the patience
Hahahaa well i’m glad it could help you make that decision lol
Great information video.👍 Nice Job showing everything, you need.
Thank you! Appreciate the comment 👍
Hello, can you shed some light on the position of the glide pin, flat vs round. Which one goes on the top vs the bottom. Thanks
i’ve never seen honda/acura use 13mm bolts. is this common on the newer models?
Good job, very well explained.
Thank you! Appreciate your comment!
Perfect video man thank you
Thank you 🙏🙏
Hey man which impact driver did you use? Brake job is coming up for my 2016 TLX and I know a good impact driver would be super helpful
Impact is a Dewalt DCF894H
Excellent instructions. Thank You
Thank you! Appreciate the comment!
Parking break on or off?
@@GPIIICINEMA off
@ thank you
Great vid 👍🏼👍🏼
Appreciate it 🙏
Awesome thank you so much very self explanatory, amazing video in YT
Thank you for the comment, definitely appreciate it!
Did you install the inside rear pad with the wear sensor on the wrong side of the car? I think should be on the driver’s rear inside. Doesn’t really make a difference though. Great video 👍🏼.
Appreciate the comment.
But nope, everything was done correctly as intended. This particular PowerStop kit had wear sensors on both sides. You can verify this with the picture of the product on RockAuto:
www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/acura,2018,tlx,2.4l+l4,3437230,brake+&+wheel+hub,rotor+&+brake+pad+kit,13824
…part # CRK7216
…some brands include sensors on both sides, some just one. Doesn’t really matter, and as you said side really doesn’t matter either. Just a product design choice. Some manufacturers include both sides, some only one. All that really matters is traditionally on all applications the wear sensor goes on the inside. 🤙
Yes wear sensor only on 2 of the 4 rear pads. Looking only at the rear pads with the wear sensor closely at rockauto, there appears a difference from left and right rear inner pads. The wear sensor should be at the bottom for the rear pads for your particular car.
How you worded your initial reply, it seemed as if you were referring to only 1 of the 4 rear pads having a wear sensor.....which some setups/ brands do only have 1 on one side. But yes, it has wear sensors on 2 of the 4 pads.
But…you’re absolutely right my friend. That sensor should be on the bottom. I actually detail for Acura now (didn’t when video was made)…..and I pulled up workflow diagram in the shop and they are indicated on bottom. Guess I wasn’t paying attention and was more focused on making the video. Oh well, I’m human unfortunately lol.
I recently replaced my wife’s Honda CRV brake pads and has a similar floating brake caliper design but without electronic parking brake. These RUclips videos are immensely helpful for me. Be safe my friend.
🙏🙏
I heard you need a scanner tool to do brake jobs for tlx. Is that true?
I use the scanner tool, save a few mins, but you don't have too you follow his video.
Hes showing it since many dont have a scanner. Yes u can do this with a scanner for rear
i just bought Wagner brake pads for my 2015 TLX and i notice that they don't come with brake pad retaining springs right before you slap on the caliper. is that going to be a problem? BTW this is the best video by far. thank you!
Do you still have the original retainers? I would just use them! These came with new ones, but i used originals.
Does this fit in an acura 2017 tlx AWD ? Autozone keeps saying it doesn't.
The PowerStop part numbers are the same for all options on Rockauto 🤷♂️
Good video 😊
@@josepaiz528 appreciate it! 🙏
Did you open the brake fluid reservoir cap before changing the brakes?
You can if it makes you feel better, but most definitely don’t have to, and I don’t.
In fact, most FSM’s / Haynes recommend siphoning (turkey baster) some fluid out of reservoir, to prevent it overflowing from compressing.
I actually don’t even do that though. What i’ve been doing for a little while that I really like is after I’m done each corner, go back in car and pump brakes a few times….and build the pedal back up stiff to get all the fluid basically back in the corner. Haven’t had any fluid overflow yet or anything utilizing this method. And i could be crazy, but I think it helps to really have an even better nice solid stiff pedal when the job is done.
Thanks man!! I'm trying this today. I'm strictly going off your video and even bought all the tools (torque wrench, Torx, etc)
Nice man! Hope it went/goes well 👍
Doesn't rear caliper piston need to be spun back in. I see how you compressed piston with clamp. Thanks nm
Yup! Thats all outlined in the video 👍
Thanks for the video.
Thanks for the comment!!
THANK YOU. mine is “stuck” and i haven’t been able to figure out how to get the screw out. HEAT duh😂
Haha yea man! Heat is definitely the answer 👍👍
You can drill it out too, just keep spraying bolt lube to make it go faster
Found out the hard way today that screw is no joke! Car is 5 years old in the northeast. The front rotors screw just would not bulge no matter what I do! I ended up completely stripping the screw head! Then I took a good screwdriver and make a dimpel on the top of the strip screw, then heat, tap, heat, tap and 40 minutes later it finally came loose. Each time I heated the screw for about 40 seconds. Make sure you have patience!
Try anti seize on the rotor screw
I’ve done that in the past on jobs. Probably find a couple videos on the channel of me doing that too.
i thought you have to spin the rear caliper in, not push it in.
Only for the rear
Rear starts 20:40
Good vid, but I have never heard anyone use the phrase "fire it out" when talking about bolts/lug nuts/screws 😂
@@bb5242 lolol didn’t you know? Makes them come out smoother 😂
I picked up a 2017 V6 TLX - Regular Oil changes, trans fluid swaps and 1 owner. 80,000 miles. however: Owners never replaced rotors or pads. the assembly rotor screws were not coming out with heat or extraction - took it to my local - 50$ took all 4 out -> in case you run into this, anyone....
Thats a great price for a removal of the rotor screws!
40:15. 20:40
Just use anti seize for the lub
For the lub, aye?
Awesome give me confidence to do it myself 🫡
Appreciate it!!!