THE SEQUENCE IS MORE IMPORTANT THAN YOU THINK.... Great Video as always. One thing to watch out for (as I use this feature a lot) is if you're running a printer with filament runout sensor. If the filament runs out the head moves straight to the home position, not a problem when printing all at once as the head will remain at the highest layer that it has printed. However if this happens when you are using the print in sequence mode and you have several prints on the bed, then the head may well crash into them as it won't avoid them on its return path to its home position. My tip is to make sure the print sequence starts front right to right back then returns to front centre to centre back, this way the head will never meet an already printed part when parking during filament run out. I returned to my printer to find the BL touch pin bent on my MAX and couldn't work out why, when I resumed the print with new filament it became obvious as the head crashed into the printed items on its journey back to where it had left off. So as Chuck suggested, print order is important but maybe not for the reason you thought.
Chep, you've seriously helped me with everything that has to do with 3d printing. I've maid my ender 3 pay for itself 10 times over thanks to you. You've always got the perfect solution and great tips and tricks. Don't stop making videos they are great
Great that you bring this up, we have been using this technique for the past two years but pushing it even further: First, we group our parts two and two, and the rotation between those two parts allows us to control precisely where the travel-seam between them will be placed. , Cura says max 25mm height due to print head and gantry clearance, but we have raised this number to 300 mm allowing us to print any size object one at a time. As long as we print diagonal, STARTING FROM THE FRONT AND MOVING DIAGONALLY BACKWARDS, it is possible. We print parts that are140mm high this way. Third, the method has one more advantage: we need to get as much milage out of the filament spool as possible, and this way we can let the spool run to the end and never end up with more than two unfinished parts, instead of a full build plate of unfinished parts. We have three ender 3 pro and will print 200 parts this month with this method, itt works like a charm. We also tried a CR10-500mm to get more diagonal length, but it was such a poor printer compared to the ender 3, it's better to add more ender 3. I hope this is helpful for someone.
I've been using this for some time now on my Ender 3 Pro. The tricky part in Cura is that the order in which objects are printed is determined by the order in which you add them ... but ... there's a trick: if you delete an object and then UNDO that action, it is as if you just "added" that object. So, after positioning all objects, without worrying about order, I delete the item I want it to print last, undo that, then delete the one it should print just before the last one, and undo that ... and so on. The final result is having the order I want: right to left (because my BLTouch is on the left) and front to back (so the X 2020 bar doesn't hit anything). And with that order, you can get away with some extra height (change printer setting in Cura) by ensuring the X axis always stays behind the earlier prints (so don't make a grid, but diagonal zig-zag pattern of objects) and the head keeps away sufficiently (which the size settings in Cura help with). I've printed sequential objects >10cm high in that way - which with normal settings Cura would not allow because of the height of the gantry being less.
You are a GOD. Thank you so much for this info. I was wondering why the print sequence was so frickin random. It's good to know the reason for it so I can work around the issue.
@@ShadowVFX Or ... you can also do what I have done in the meanwhile and switch to SuperSlicer or PrusaSlicer, where the order of objects is much more clearly defined and you can just move objects around in the list. I'm surprised Cura has still not improved the control over object order ...
Sure, but if you print all at once, you would put them much closer together, so it would not be long travels. I like the tip for the reasons from the movie - no stringing and the ability to pop them off as you go. Also, if you you don't have filament runout detection and just want to burn off the remainder of a spool, you can just make as many small parts as you can before running out of filament.
@@DFroelich For 9 cubes; print time is 299min when spaced over the bed, 293min when in close proximity, 283min when printing per object. Seems to be a time gain of 2.05% when printing close together, vs 5.65% when printing one by one. (respectively 3.13% vs 6.45% gain when printing only 2 cubes). That's a nice gain to be had for clicking one setting. I'll be using this from now on when batch printing.
@@jaguarke069 A gain of 5% at a great cost of print height and print space, remember. I once printed a set of cable clips to empty a spool, but I could have fit 8 times more clips on the print bed had I printed them at once. Right now, the "one at a time" setting of Cura is not a game changer.
@@wernerviehhauser94 I guess 'it depends' indeed whether you SHOULD. But whenever possible, I will use the option, and for more reasons than time efficiency alone.
About time somebody did this! I've been doing this on my Troxy & PrusaSlicer for 2 years after messing with the settings and figured it out. Same idea and principle, just different way of doing things (different menu options and names). Excellent video.
Biggest advantage in PrusaSlicer is that it nicely lists the objects and allows you to change the order in which they will be printed. In Cura I need a dirty delete+undo trick to change the order. Still, I miss some stuff in PrusaSlicer, which always brings me back to Cura, ex. being able to print a brim, but with 0.4mm gap between part and brim to allow easier removal. PrusaSlicer has no option for that. It's all those little things that bring me back to Cura ...
Cool. Having just got my printer dialed in to have really good bed adhesion this is the final piece to be able to print multiples without worrying about one fail ruining allllllll of the ones im printing. Tried several times before to print a bed full of things all at once. Even things that had never failed to print. Suddenly was getting just random detaches. I guess leaving one print and coming back over and over is just riskier and more likely to fail.
Nice, Chuck. I was actually just playing with this today. I noticed that it seems safer to start the sequence on the back of the printer since the print head is in the front of the gantry. This will give your print head a bit more room to breathe and might even allow you to drop your min/max/x/y limits so that you can fit more on the bed. Also, for taller prints, you can raise the gantry height in the settings using this method.
What an invaluable feature. Thanks for the info Chuck! You say it's not the most efficient use of the bed, but it costs no more filament and prints quicker, so I'd argue that it's the most efficient use possible.
@@Martial-Mat well, if you need 100 really small items, you might just be able to fit them into a single plate, 10x10. But not print at a time, that way, unless they’re only a few layers high.
@@JasperJanssen Ahh yes, I see what you mean. Personally, I just wouldn't risk 100 items. Not only does the travel time get out of hand, but one mistake can ruin the whole batch, especially if the head gets clogged.
Another good thing about this is you can print many small models one at a time when your filament is running out (I don’t have a filament runout sensor on my elder 5). This means I can keep printing without worrying about running out of filament misprint. I have changed the gantry height on the setting in Cura and made sure it prints from front to back and that way i can print big things as long as I take into account the gantry, a bit of zig/zagging makes it possible.
This has been part of Cura for a long time. But it used to not have the "keep out box" and it was easy to end up with the print head colliding with something that had been printed earlier.
Subscribed! I was just thinking about something like this earlier in the week. I also like sequential prints for multiple parts because its safer against problems like running out of filament, filament breakage, or power outage. If that were to occur with parallel prints then *all* prints on that bed would "partials" and all unusable. But for sequential prints, such an error event would only cause the *currently* printed object to be a "partial" -- because the other objects would have been 100% completed or not yet started.
I am going to change the measurements for the hot end size in Cura and see if I can steal some space back as I am certain they will have built a massive tolerance into the spacing
@@MetalheadAndNerd You can: "Manage Printers", edit "Machine Settings" for your printer and in that dialog at the right you should see the "Printhead Settings".
@@MisterkeTube Thos dialog was also shown in the video. But I'm talking about the settings not in this menu. Where do you describe the size of your print head around the nozzle. You need at least 4 values for that.
@@MetalheadAndNerd Those are the values listed there: X min, Y min, X max, Y max define the "footprint" of your complete head relative to the nozzle. The gantry height defines what limit Cura imposes on the height-difference between already printed parts and a still to come print position (i.e. the max height of any object). Normally for i3 style the latter is the height at which the bottom of the X bar will be when printing the bottom layer. If you order your prints correctly and ensure the X bar doesn't get over objects printed before, you can get away with much higher stuff and to have Cura allow that, you then need to increase this number (basically making it think your print head is dangling from a very high up X bar).
Hi Chuck, This is a very nice video showing something I do use a lot of times when printing small parts that I need many times. I didn't know Cura has a setting for it, and I used Simplify3D for this, but this is (like many other things) so much better in Cura. Thanks for sharing.
Random detail that can catch you off-guard: The keep-out area just accounts for the print head, but not for the rail/mount that runs along the x-axis. If you are printing tall things then you need space them out long the y-axis so that the printer won't crash into already printed models.
One of the most interesting reasons to use this, is if you have a failure at per example 80%, this could be for a tangled spool, power outage, blocked hot end, some of your prints will be finished. Rarther than all be at 80%
You can do this on cura 4.7.1 Print sequence is there. Just adjust gantry height as needed in printer profile. You can print the full height of your printer. I print collapsible sword blades in vase mode this way.
@@Chrissi33004 I didnt say start printing at the back, did I? As long as you print all pieces front to back, the height of each piece doesnt matter, does it? Since the plate moves forward, the gantry wont hit it. Again, you were incorrect about needing tallest pieces at back. You dont. You just need to print front to back. Height doesnt matter. Posting wrong info doesnt help anyone!
I noticed that when you have a printer with more than 1 extruder you need to disable all but 1 extruder in Cura for this feature to be possible to use. Cura tooltip state that the numbers of extruders that are enabled is preventing the feature to be shown but only if you browse hidden settings and hower over the info bubble.
Another concise but rich content video. Thank you for doing these series for each update. Could you create a video on " Infill Support feature in CURA 4.8 " Please ? I couldn't get it to work on CURA 4.8 Mac. But it works perfectly in Windows 10.
This is something to bookmark in the brain - stick back in the resource area of my age-addled grape, for future use. I am sure it will come in handy some day.
Great video as always👍 I love to use sequence print. Have used it a cobble of time in IdearMaker. Great stuff Thanks for sharing your knowledge to all of us🎆😀
Nice technique! Could you possibly create a video installing Klipper on the stock Ender 3 v2? It's kinda tricky to do so and would love to see a tutorial from you!
@@fernwehmind Spacing problems? It perfectly works for me in both major slicers, Cura and PrusaSlicer. In my opinion, the greatest benefit lies in the vase mode, because that is the only possibility how to print more parts at once.
Great vis, as usual. I am looking to print each of those cubes with different profiles settings so I can adjust and tune my profiles. Any idea? thanks!
I use this all the time, its a great feature. The clearance areas are extremely conservative. I wish someone would release a standard cartesian printer with a belt bed!
Until now I have seen that "keep out" zone referred to as the "shadow" anywhere in Ultimaker content. That would be the term to enter for a help search. How would a shadow be measured by the operator to customize the configuration? Would it be made up of the distances in all four directions from the center of nozzle to clear the hot end/fan box?
Is there a known different in layer adhesive, between doing one at a time, vs all at once?? I mean, they would cool off less, if one is printed complete at once. But maybe that doesn't matter much???
So I’ve been curious about printing with nylon and reinforced nylon on my printer, and what upgrades beyond the extruder and hot end that I’d need to get my Ender 3 to print at 300 Celsius. There’s only one video out there that describes what’s needed, but it involves a lot of the channel’s personal gripes with the printer. I’ve watched your videos since I needed to assemble it, so I had a feeling you’d be able to explain which upgrades I’d need in a much more understandable way. Thanks!
I can't seem to enable the print sequence option. I click it to make it visible, but It doesn't show up in my option list for printer settings. I'm using Cura 5.2.2
1:41 This is incorrect! This limitation is caused by the gantry height set in the cura printer settings under printer head. This is put in place so that the gantry doesn't hit a previously printed object. You could set the gantry height to 1000 for example to make cura think your gantry won't get in the way and effectively making the height of the build area much taller. (if you know what you are doing!!!)) What I did to print as many tall objects as I wanted is to fit them on the board in the way that the prints are printed from the front to the back whilst making sure 3D objects are never on the same line parallel to the gantry (look at the image provided in the comment below)
print sequence is a great tool but it shoul be upgrades, if I'm printing multiple parts they all have same settings, sometimes i need them with different infill, speed, or layer height. that would be great step up from current print sequence
Chuck, I have a simple trex logo about 1.5 inches square and 2.5 mm thick I am printing in glow plastic. If I print a single logo I get a clean print with no under extrusion. If I add multiple logos to the bed and select one at a time all the prints are under extruded and look like swiss cheese. The only setting changed is the one at a time. Ever heard of this problem?
@@FilamentFriday Thanks Chuck. I have taken the machine apart multiple times looking for the extruder issues but I am convinced it is a slicer issue when I try to do multiple parts at a time because it behaves well when I do only one part at a time. Gremlins! I'll let you know if I ever find the fix.
If you were to print a couple of taller prints you might run into trouble with the gantry knocking prints off the bed as the Y axis moves. Or is this also taken into account by Cura?
Never could get the Ender 3 bed level enough to do that. The bed rocks around its pulleys, so stuff always looks better when concentrated in the center.
for some reason when i do this my print fails on the first one every time and i cant figure out why. One on its own prints perfect but when i try and do multiple (one at a timeof the same object) it fails in the first 5 mins
I had a look. But because it reduces the z axis hight, I will not use it to often, as my shortest build is 120mm high, at least. But thank you for explaining that mistery choice
This was great news (as I am a newbie) as I was totally thinking what a waste my 300x300x320 bed is printing one small part at a time! This will greatly speed of the efficient use of the whole bed - so thanks! How about this..... What does it take to get automated printing? Meaning, print a part, push it off, print another part, push it off, .... etc etc.
good stuff. It's been helpful Chep. Is there a way to skip one of the prints and move to the next. For example, if one is not working due to a print or design error, you could just move on to the next one instead of having to cancel the whole job?
![Noob To Max With DRAGON REWORK In Blox Fruits [FULL MOVIE]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/LnBMOinoOvA/mqdefault.jpg)
The timing of this is hilarious. I just started using that function yesterday. First time I've started something without learning it from you first.
THE SEQUENCE IS MORE IMPORTANT THAN YOU THINK....
Great Video as always.
One thing to watch out for (as I use this feature a lot) is if you're running a printer with filament runout sensor.
If the filament runs out the head moves straight to the home position, not a problem when printing all at once as the head will remain at the highest layer that it has printed. However if this happens when you are using the print in sequence mode and you have several prints on the bed, then the head may well crash into them as it won't avoid them on its return path to its home position.
My tip is to make sure the print sequence starts front right to right back then returns to front centre to centre back, this way the head will never meet an already printed part when parking during filament run out.
I returned to my printer to find the BL touch pin bent on my MAX and couldn't work out why, when I resumed the print with new filament it became obvious as the head crashed into the printed items on its journey back to where it had left off.
So as Chuck suggested, print order is important but maybe not for the reason you thought.
Chep, you've seriously helped me with everything that has to do with 3d printing. I've maid my ender 3 pay for itself 10 times over thanks to you. You've always got the perfect solution and great tips and tricks. Don't stop making videos they are great
And THIS is why I'm your Patreon sir!
I second this motion 😁
Excellent feature, I was waiting for this for a long time
Exactly what I wanted to learn, on this printer, from this guy. Just perfect, thanks champ!
Great that you bring this up, we have been using this technique for the past two years but pushing it even further: First, we group our parts two and two, and the rotation between those two parts allows us to control precisely where the travel-seam between them will be placed.
, Cura says max 25mm height due to print head and gantry clearance, but we have raised this number to 300 mm allowing us to print any size object one at a time. As long as we print diagonal, STARTING FROM THE FRONT AND MOVING DIAGONALLY BACKWARDS, it is possible. We print parts that are140mm high this way.
Third, the method has one more advantage: we need to get as much milage out of the filament spool as possible, and this way we can let the spool run to the end and never end up with more than two unfinished parts, instead of a full build plate of unfinished parts.
We have three ender 3 pro and will print 200 parts this month with this method, itt works like a charm.
We also tried a CR10-500mm to get more diagonal length, but it was such a poor printer compared to the ender 3, it's better to add more ender 3.
I hope this is helpful for someone.
How do you get it to print in groups of two rather than one at a time?
@@cdman973 right click after having s3lected two models gives you an option to group.
@@cp001cp001 Amazing! Thanks so much, I have been wanting to do this for a long time!
@@cdman973 perfect, glad it worked out for you.
How did you change the setting to 300mm?
I've been using this for some time now on my Ender 3 Pro. The tricky part in Cura is that the order in which objects are printed is determined by the order in which you add them ... but ... there's a trick: if you delete an object and then UNDO that action, it is as if you just "added" that object. So, after positioning all objects, without worrying about order, I delete the item I want it to print last, undo that, then delete the one it should print just before the last one, and undo that ... and so on. The final result is having the order I want: right to left (because my BLTouch is on the left) and front to back (so the X 2020 bar doesn't hit anything). And with that order, you can get away with some extra height (change printer setting in Cura) by ensuring the X axis always stays behind the earlier prints (so don't make a grid, but diagonal zig-zag pattern of objects) and the head keeps away sufficiently (which the size settings in Cura help with). I've printed sequential objects >10cm high in that way - which with normal settings Cura would not allow because of the height of the gantry being less.
Thanks for the tip!
Ahh thanks!
You are a GOD. Thank you so much for this info. I was wondering why the print sequence was so frickin random. It's good to know the reason for it so I can work around the issue.
@@ShadowVFX Or ... you can also do what I have done in the meanwhile and switch to SuperSlicer or PrusaSlicer, where the order of objects is much more clearly defined and you can just move objects around in the list. I'm surprised Cura has still not improved the control over object order ...
Goat
3:05 'Skipping' all those long travels even shortens the overall printing time!
Sure, but if you print all at once, you would put them much closer together, so it would not be long travels.
I like the tip for the reasons from the movie - no stringing and the ability to pop them off as you go.
Also, if you you don't have filament runout detection and just want to burn off the remainder of a spool, you can just make as many small parts as you can before running out of filament.
@@DFroelich For 9 cubes; print time is 299min when spaced over the bed, 293min when in close proximity, 283min when printing per object. Seems to be a time gain of 2.05% when printing close together, vs 5.65% when printing one by one. (respectively 3.13% vs 6.45% gain when printing only 2 cubes). That's a nice gain to be had for clicking one setting. I'll be using this from now on when batch printing.
@@jaguarke069 A gain of 5% at a great cost of print height and print space, remember. I once printed a set of cable clips to empty a spool, but I could have fit 8 times more clips on the print bed had I printed them at once. Right now, the "one at a time" setting of Cura is not a game changer.
@@wernerviehhauser94 I guess 'it depends' indeed whether you SHOULD. But whenever possible, I will use the option, and for more reasons than time efficiency alone.
i realize it is kinda off topic but does anybody know of a good website to stream newly released tv shows online ?
Most straight forward and best vid I've found. Thanks for helping a newbie
One of the best channels on here for 3d printer tips. Thanks Chep
Amazing as Always! Lifesaver! Thanks from Australia!
Thanks for the Video
Nice little tidbit there! Happy New Year Chuck!
About time somebody did this! I've been doing this on my Troxy & PrusaSlicer for 2 years after messing with the settings and figured it out. Same idea and principle, just different way of doing things (different menu options and names).
Excellent video.
Biggest advantage in PrusaSlicer is that it nicely lists the objects and allows you to change the order in which they will be printed. In Cura I need a dirty delete+undo trick to change the order. Still, I miss some stuff in PrusaSlicer, which always brings me back to Cura, ex. being able to print a brim, but with 0.4mm gap between part and brim to allow easier removal. PrusaSlicer has no option for that. It's all those little things that bring me back to Cura ...
Cool. Having just got my printer dialed in to have really good bed adhesion this is the final piece to be able to print multiples without worrying about one fail ruining allllllll of the ones im printing.
Tried several times before to print a bed full of things all at once. Even things that had never failed to print. Suddenly was getting just random detaches. I guess leaving one print and coming back over and over is just riskier and more likely to fail.
Talk about informative video. Straight to the point. Kudos Chep!
Nice, Chuck. I was actually just playing with this today. I noticed that it seems safer to start the sequence on the back of the printer since the print head is in the front of the gantry. This will give your print head a bit more room to breathe and might even allow you to drop your min/max/x/y limits so that you can fit more on the bed. Also, for taller prints, you can raise the gantry height in the settings using this method.
What an invaluable feature. Thanks for the info Chuck! You say it's not the most efficient use of the bed, but it costs no more filament and prints quicker, so I'd argue that it's the most efficient use possible.
It depends whether you need 9 small parts or 100.
@@JasperJanssen How so Jasper?
@@Martial-Mat well, if you need 100 really small items, you might just be able to fit them into a single plate, 10x10. But not print at a time, that way, unless they’re only a few layers high.
@@JasperJanssen Ahh yes, I see what you mean. Personally, I just wouldn't risk 100 items. Not only does the travel time get out of hand, but one mistake can ruin the whole batch, especially if the head gets clogged.
excellent video.......very useful feature....I used it in making chains for 3d printer's wiring ;)
Yesss! I've been wanting a feature like this for a long time
Nice tutorial. It's amazing how many hidden features I've learned from Chuck
Another good thing about this is you can print many small models one at a time when your filament is running out (I don’t have a filament runout sensor on my elder 5). This means I can keep printing without worrying about running out of filament misprint. I have changed the gantry height on the setting in Cura and made sure it prints from front to back and that way i can print big things as long as I take into account the gantry, a bit of zig/zagging makes it possible.
Very cool and awesome video CHuck!
This has been part of Cura for a long time.
But it used to not have the "keep out box" and it was easy to end up with the print head colliding with something that had been printed earlier.
Yes it has. I was just introducing it to many who didn’t know it existed and I used V4.8 so that’s why the reference.
exactly what i was looking for thank u for the explanation!
Subscribed! I was just thinking about something like this earlier in the week.
I also like sequential prints for multiple parts because its safer against problems like running out of filament, filament breakage, or power outage. If that were to occur with parallel prints then *all* prints on that bed would "partials" and all unusable. But for sequential prints, such an error event would only cause the *currently* printed object to be a "partial" -- because the other objects would have been 100% completed or not yet started.
thanks
I appreciate a lot what you're doing man, thanks.
I am going to change the measurements for the hot end size in Cura and see if I can steal some space back as I am certain they will have built a massive tolerance into the spacing
Careful you can jam the print head into something already printed and it can damage the printer.
It probably only works with printers which Cura knows since we cannot set the dimensions of the print head in the UI.
@@MetalheadAndNerd You can: "Manage Printers", edit "Machine Settings" for your printer and in that dialog at the right you should see the "Printhead Settings".
@@MisterkeTube Thos dialog was also shown in the video. But I'm talking about the settings not in this menu.
Where do you describe the size of your print head around the nozzle. You need at least 4 values for that.
@@MetalheadAndNerd Those are the values listed there: X min, Y min, X max, Y max define the "footprint" of your complete head relative to the nozzle. The gantry height defines what limit Cura imposes on the height-difference between already printed parts and a still to come print position (i.e. the max height of any object). Normally for i3 style the latter is the height at which the bottom of the X bar will be when printing the bottom layer. If you order your prints correctly and ensure the X bar doesn't get over objects printed before, you can get away with much higher stuff and to have Cura allow that, you then need to increase this number (basically making it think your print head is dangling from a very high up X bar).
Thank's for sharing Chuck !
Hi Chuck, This is a very nice video showing something I do use a lot of times when printing small parts that I need many times.
I didn't know Cura has a setting for it, and I used Simplify3D for this, but this is (like many other things) so much better in Cura.
Thanks for sharing.
Random detail that can catch you off-guard: The keep-out area just accounts for the print head, but not for the rail/mount that runs along the x-axis. If you are printing tall things then you need space them out long the y-axis so that the printer won't crash into already printed models.
Great video. Very helpful. Just a good job all around.
Really, really interesting! Thank you, Chuck! 😃
Happy new year! And stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
As always, an excellent video! Very helpful, thank you...
Thanks 👍👍 very helpful and straight forward
This was so helpful, thank you very much 👍
Just WOW. THank you so much! More POWER!
Thanks! I did not know that feature existed, it will be quite handy I'm sure.
You are my hero, thanks mate!
Arrrr I knew you could do this, just couldn't figure out how. Thanks!!
One of the most interesting reasons to use this, is if you have a failure at per example 80%, this could be for a tangled spool, power outage, blocked hot end, some of your prints will be finished.
Rarther than all be at 80%
Great video I was wondering about this.
OMG YES this is exactly what I needed 🙏
You can do this on cura 4.7.1
Print sequence is there. Just adjust gantry height as needed in printer profile.
You can print the full height of your printer.
I print collapsible sword blades in vase mode this way.
@@Chrissi33004 incorrect, as long as the gantry and hotend housing are not in path, youre fine with any placement
@@Chrissi33004 I didnt say start printing at the back, did I?
As long as you print all pieces front to back, the height of each piece doesnt matter, does it?
Since the plate moves forward, the gantry wont hit it.
Again, you were incorrect about needing tallest pieces at back.
You dont.
You just need to print front to back.
Height doesnt matter.
Posting wrong info doesnt help anyone!
@@andrewdowney760 maybe i shouldnt write yt comments when i havent slept in 20hours. Thanks for explaining me in detail, gonna delete that shit
This was one of the first things I did with my printer. I just saw the option in Cura and went for it
I noticed that when you have a printer with more than 1 extruder you need to disable all but 1 extruder in Cura for this feature to be possible to use. Cura tooltip state that the numbers of extruders that are enabled is preventing the feature to be shown but only if you browse hidden settings and hower over the info bubble.
Agree. Cura had bugs in multiextruder mode. Not sure they ever worked them out.
This has been around for a while now. I'm surprised people don't go through all the hidden settings in cura
In fact every modern slicer has this capability
I saw this same feature on another channel the other day although Chuck went into much more detail
Another concise but rich content video. Thank you for doing these series for each update. Could you create a video on " Infill Support feature in CURA 4.8 " Please ? I couldn't get it to work on CURA 4.8 Mac. But it works perfectly in Windows 10.
owwwwwwwwwwwwwww so so so useful and save time . thats amaizin inventions in cura. thanks for cura inventions
Great, need this for dual extruder printing that is not supported by this yet.
This is something to bookmark in the brain - stick back in the resource area of my age-addled grape, for future use. I am sure it will come in handy some day.
This really helps. Thank you!
Great video as always👍
I love to use sequence print. Have used it a cobble of time in IdearMaker. Great stuff
Thanks for sharing your knowledge to all of us🎆😀
At 2:20, how did you preview it where the prints show the different colors?
Line Type in color scheme drop down.
@@FilamentFriday awesome thanks!
Cool Feature, I might be using this one soon, thanks! 😁👍🏼
oh that's nice, didn't know i can do that with cura
Thank you this really helpt!!!!😄
Nice technique! Could you possibly create a video installing Klipper on the stock Ender 3 v2? It's kinda tricky to do so and would love to see a tutorial from you!
Thank you so much
Thanks CHEP
wow, thank you!
my gantry was to low and would not slice, i can just increase it so its above the top of build and should be ok?
This technique could also be utilised to print multiple parts in the contour/vase mode.
I couldn't manage to work with the vase mode. I get an error :/
@@fernwehmind Spacing problems? It perfectly works for me in both major slicers, Cura and PrusaSlicer. In my opinion, the greatest benefit lies in the vase mode, because that is the only possibility how to print more parts at once.
sweet :D I was wondering if this was possible. :) gonna avoid that stringing I get. Thanks dude! :)
So can you get your G Code to LOOP? It could then do some jobs that run on belt printer ?
Whenever I need to figure out how to do something… CHEP has the video.
Chep, my ultimaker cura its says unable to slice. Some help?
Do you suppose you could print unequal height parts as long as the shortest one printed first?
Great
What happens with the initail layer speed? Does Cura set that speed for the first layer of the sequencial prints?
I was just wondering, do you have a link for that T-nut you printed?
www.thingiverse.com/thing:3050607
@@FilamentFriday Thanks!
Great vis, as usual. I am looking to print each of those cubes with different profiles settings so I can adjust and tune my profiles. Any idea? thanks!
I use this all the time, its a great feature. The clearance areas are extremely conservative. I wish someone would release a standard cartesian printer with a belt bed!
It would be a patent violation if they did
Thanks.
Until now I have seen that "keep out" zone referred to as the "shadow" anywhere in Ultimaker content. That would be the term to enter for a help search.
How would a shadow be measured by the operator to customize the configuration? Would it be made up of the distances in all four directions from the center of nozzle to clear the hot end/fan box?
Is there a known different in layer adhesive, between doing one at a time, vs all at once?? I mean, they would cool off less, if one is printed complete at once. But maybe that doesn't matter much???
So I’ve been curious about printing with nylon and reinforced nylon on my printer, and what upgrades beyond the extruder and hot end that I’d need to get my Ender 3 to print at 300 Celsius. There’s only one video out there that describes what’s needed, but it involves a lot of the channel’s personal gripes with the printer.
I’ve watched your videos since I needed to assemble it, so I had a feeling you’d be able to explain which upgrades I’d need in a much more understandable way.
Thanks!
I haven’t done it so I’m not sure but definitely a firmware upgrade is needed since it’s set to 260 max I believe.
How do I configure the size of the print head? I have a custom fan duct that I think will touch something
any idea why it pauses between each one and how to remove the pause ? It pauses for like 3-5 seconds so the filament starts to ooze.
I've tried doing this with a variety of minis but it won't let me slice. Is it because the minis are not duplicates ?
I can't seem to enable the print sequence option. I click it to make it visible, but It doesn't show up in my option list for printer settings. I'm using Cura 5.2.2
1:41 This is incorrect! This limitation is caused by the gantry height set in the cura printer settings under printer head. This is put in place so that the gantry doesn't hit a previously printed object.
You could set the gantry height to 1000 for example to make cura think your gantry won't get in the way and effectively making the height of the build area much taller. (if you know what you are doing!!!))
What I did to print as many tall objects as I wanted is to fit them on the board in the way that the prints are printed from the front to the back whilst making sure 3D objects are never on the same line parallel to the gantry (look at the image provided in the comment below)
Can't get this to work on my printer, have the parts separate and away from each other, starting from the back and coming forward,
print sequence is a great tool but it shoul be upgrades, if I'm printing multiple parts they all have same settings, sometimes i need them with different infill, speed, or layer height. that would be great step up from current print sequence
Chuck, I have a simple trex logo about 1.5 inches square and 2.5 mm thick I am printing in glow plastic. If I print a single logo I get a clean print with no under extrusion. If I add multiple logos to the bed and select one at a time all the prints are under extruded and look like swiss cheese. The only setting changed is the one at a time. Ever heard of this problem?
No, that’s a new one. Maybe check that the filament isn’t being restricted causing the under extrusion.
@@FilamentFriday Thanks Chuck. I have taken the machine apart multiple times looking for the extruder issues but I am convinced it is a slicer issue when I try to do multiple parts at a time because it behaves well when I do only one part at a time. Gremlins! I'll let you know if I ever find the fix.
If you were to print a couple of taller prints you might run into trouble with the gantry knocking prints off the bed as the Y axis moves. Or is this also taken into account by Cura?
Hi,
I really like your channel. Can you also make prusaslicer guides? Everyone uses cura but prusaslicer is really good.
I have made a few videos on it.
@@FilamentFriday Yes, I have seen and I really like them, but I would love for you to try to do more and not just for cura.
Never could get the Ender 3 bed level enough to do that. The bed rocks around its pulleys, so stuff always looks better when concentrated in the center.
tighten your belts
Can you change the print sequence
for some reason when i do this my print fails on the first one every time and i cant figure out why. One on its own prints perfect but when i try and do multiple (one at a timeof the same object) it fails in the first 5 mins
I get limited results with this. I tried to print 3 of the same object. There was no overlap and yet it errors when I try and slice it.
I had a look. But because it reduces the z axis hight, I will not use it to often, as my shortest build is 120mm high, at least. But thank you for explaining that mistery choice
This was great news (as I am a newbie) as I was totally thinking what a waste my 300x300x320 bed is printing one small part at a time! This will greatly speed of the efficient use of the whole bed - so thanks!
How about this.....
What does it take to get automated printing? Meaning, print a part, push it off, print another part, push it off, .... etc etc.
good stuff. It's been helpful Chep. Is there a way to skip one of the prints and move to the next. For example, if one is not working due to a print or design error, you could just move on to the next one instead of having to cancel the whole job?
Not that I’m aware of.
My man 🤙
can you check out Arachne cura and compare results for speed and quality
your the best in the world! What if I have two parts on bed and only want to print one?