LED Tape Part 1
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- Опубликовано: 15 май 2024
- LED Tape, power supplies, controllers and aluminium track.
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11:48 White is orange because reasons, love how dry that line was delivered!
There's always one deadpan comment in every JW video that cracks me up and this time it was "spying talking boxes installed in your home".
THIS is the video series I've been waiting for. A deep dive into LED strips and how to make the most use of them.
Also, I never knew that you could see if an IR LED was working via a smart-phone camera.
Thanks for that, John Ward.
The dimming is done using pwm, reducing the voltage doesn't work very well with LEDs. The ones at the far end would just extinguish as the voltage was reduced. The controller provides a constant current pwm supply.
I'm about to dabble with some of these so I haven't yet experimented in practice - in pwm dimmed LEDs does flicker become more visible the dimmer they get?
The kind of controllers shown in the videos are not current regulated. There is resistors in the tape for current regulation. Regarding the PWM i agree.
"those spying talking boxes you can have installed in your homes"
You can get around the voltage drop by connecting to the colours at one end of the tape and connecting to the common at the other end of the tape (keeping the length of the wiring between supply and tape the same).
If you wire both ends of the tape in full (as you suggested) then both ends will be the same brightness but it will be dimmer in the middle. Wiring it the way I suggested keeps it uniform brightness along the entire length.
bdf2718,
That was explained in the video, it's called ring-maining.
@@mikeZL3XD7029 Yes, the video suggested ring-maining. What I suggested was *not* ring-maining and I even explained why ring-maining was not a perfect solution.
I've used this kind of tape quite a lot. I must say the digital type ones are pretty cool. My main gripe with this stuff is soldering onto those tiny pads can be a right pain in the ass. I highly recommend that you make sure the tape is isolated from what ever you attach it to. I had shorting issues when I used some tape as back lighting in a PC case . I couldn't work out why at first until I found the back or the edges of the tape weren't insulated properly . So be aware of that in your installations of LED tape.
Didn't know that plaster in profile was a thing perfect timing for me to put some in at my house.
Thanks JW for the heads up.
Thanks JW
This has enlightened me
Excellent explanation of set up 👏👏👏
Often times the power supply and/or controller end up being referenced to mains, so another good reason to put it in an enclosure with a translucent cover to avoid inquisitive fingers. Also possibly ground the aluminium extrusion.
No spy boxes in this house! Thanks, that was super helpful.
.... Even if they are not spy-boxes, I would feel foolish talking to a micro controller like a human,
(Maybe with Majel Barrett's voice).
Ah yes, my weekend is complete.. JW uploads another video... No need to TAPE this one for later..
Yes indeed... Also His Hairstyle is Trendy aswell x
I put loads of Ansell lighting tape in a hairdressers, all was well until he used the TV remote, then the led colours would change on turning TV channel over or lights would go off when turning volume up, bloody stuff!
🤭
Great explinations. You make The Best videos
It's good to see mention of extra cabling for long lengths. There is some 5v tape which features addressable LEDs so you can have multiple colours along the tape, but it's essential to inject power every 5m. These are considerably different though as they feature data lines rather than power channels. It's still important for 12/24v tape to inject power where needed so the tracks don't melt, as mentioned in this video. Also a good reason to use aluminium profile as it can hide the additional power cables. Very well explained and looking forward to part two
It's also possible to 3D print ends for the aluminium profiles so that they become modular and can fit together in whatever length you need. Very fun to use and makes really good effects when done well.
We follow where John LEDs.... love it👍
Thanks JW.👍 I hear Tesla are promoting your video on Car charging and faults to earth.😀
11:00 I doubt the controller is varying the voltage. It's much more likely to be varying the duty cycle.
More great videos JW, could I ask what is the aluminium trunking you using. Ideal for my led strips on my project 👌
I've heard another option is to supply positive from one end and negative from the other, that means that all the leds have (roughly) equal length of wire/track, so will be equal brightness
That works nicely.
..... Or power it from the middle.
@@robbieaussievic Which would make it brightest in the middle and dimmer at the ends. Less variation than powering it at one of the ends, but still a variation. Supplying positive from one end and negative from the other end results in a uniform brightness along the entire length.
@@robbieaussievic then you just get in unevenness towards each end, pos and one end neg in the other doesn’t have this. A led with short pos connection has a long neg and vice a versa
@@mistermartin82 .... If your referring to a lateral strip have you factored in the voltage drop of running a wire to the long end ?
Great video John cheers. Any chance of doing a vid on medical locations, as that part of the regs seems geared to dropping you in it if you are wiring or testing in hospitals. Over complicated?
Excellent. Question though, how do you know an led strip is rated (as you said your diagram is) at 12watts/metre? Is there a way to calculate it? i.e. your diag is RGBW so is that 3w per colour channel and does that mean a plain white would be 3 watts or 12 watts using the same power? And does that mean a plain white would be brighter than an RGBW strip?
LED elephant in the room are the multiple PSU connections for several led lights in a room. Connecting one 240v adapter per led light means you're plugging into the mains all round the house rather than just once or twice. Guess I'll have to refer to JW's other videos on adding sockets
It would be great if you could link to the products you’re demonstrating. That aluminium channel looks really handy. Maybe you could set it up so you get a commission on any sales? Anyway, very useful video as always 👍🏻
I’ve taped this to watch later..😜
that pun would work better in the 80s-90s
You're not even trying, yensabi, I heard this whole post via my crystal set
14:51, careful JW, that’s Big Clive’s trademark.
Pink electrocution + house fire devices
@@volvo09 don’t forget the vice of knowledge as well
would it be better to install 24v led strip for kitchen units as there are 4 strips about 2 metre long fed from the ringmain, which 24v will keep the ampage low on the circuit?
I think most of the controllers flash the LEDs on and of fast to dim them rather than change the voltage, and as the flashes are faster than the eye can see they just look dimmer.
They say it is better to flash them on and off at 12V(Or whatever the full voltage is) as the LED colours can change if you lower the voltage(or maybe amps?) but I thought it might be that just a MOSFET without any smoothing cap etc is much cheaper?
Joseph Chamness,
It's called PWM (Pulse Width Modulation)
Interested in if it's possible to solder in ribbon bridges and bends to rgbic ribbon.
7:48 bloody hell its Neil Buchanan aka Banksy!
@ John Ward,
I know this may be jumping the gun a bit, but I want to install some LED strips to the desk I use as my Ham Radio station, as Halogen lamps are becoming quite expensive to buy over here, if you can get them.
Now, that would be reasonably simple in most cases, but I've heard that a lot of the LED drivers themselves cause massive RFI problems on HF and VHF frequencies that I want to be able to work on.
What are your (or your subscribers) thoughts on this?
Aside from making up massive arrays of LED's on 12 or 24 VDC with dropper resistors, what are my options?
LED strip includes series resistors so that the strip runs off a constant 12V or 24V, depending on which strip you buy. You can run these off straightforward 12V or 24V linear power supplies, hence no RFI.
@@davidfaraday7963 Thank you sir!
Actually these controllers are not regulating the voltage. They are pulse-width modulating the output.
Do you have a link as to where you purchased the aluminium profile and plastic cover please?
Amazon, amzn.to/3bJK2pp many types available.
18:59 How are you getting 3 times the power? All you've done is rearranged the LEDs. Instead of being interleaved on one strip, they are isolated on separate strips. Still the same number of LEDs of each color.
The practicalities of power dissipation.
Say for example a particular size RGB LED chip has 1W max dissipation, each colour would be limited to 1/3W.
For the same size chip a single colour type could run the full 1W of that colour.
Also, single colour tape has more room to accommodate larger main tracks - two large ones with a small inner one for the series chain of 3 LEDs and one or two resistors (12V) between each cut section. The large copper area aids heat removal from the LED chip and into the aluminium channel.
The multicolour tapes need one main positive, a main negative for each colour and an intermediate inner track for each colour, so for RGBW you would be squeezing 9 tracks in between each cut section. That means the tracks need to be so much thinner, the heatsinking along the copper is poorer and there's a LOT more voltage drop.
@@simonparkinson1053 That makes sense, thanks.
I see a lot of reviews on, for example, Amazon for RGB tapes have LEDs fail after weeks or months - has anybody here had this happen AND used aluminium track? I wonder if the common failures are actually heat deaths due to no sinking...
It's worth remembering that a lot of Chinese sellers are on Amazon these days, so you might not be getting quality!
These led tapes are a bit of a mine field. Trying to weed out the cheap rubbish from China for something that is reliable is generally harder than putting this stuff together. Thanks for sharing.
Stewie approves :)
Very interesting, and perfect timing. I presume Part Deux is already in the can (as we showbiz types call it), but if you could please cover the specific instance where the power supply is already at 12v, ie on a narrowboat. Are these things fairly tolerant to the kind of voltage fluctuations you get off a 12v Domestic battery bank, or do they need something to 'clean up' the supply first? Thanks for the always informative content!
Part 2 is already finished.
The controllers are usually multi voltage, 12-24V, however the LEDs are not, and voltages over 12V are likely to cause damage. Higher voltage = higher current, which also means the LEDs get much hotter than they are designed for. Something to ensure the voltage doesn't go over 12V would certainly be desirable.
@@jwflame Thanks John - the other LEDs on the boat are specifically bought to be voltage tolerant, so we don't get any problems. But things like electric toothbrush chargers tend to break. We have got a multi volt to guaranteed 12 volt box for the TV, I guess we should think about getting some more for the LEDs
Seems you already understand the "12V" system isn't 12V, and could be typically 14.4V with the engine running, maybe 13.8V with a shore charger/power supply.
If you consider the LEDs to be like Zener diodes which drop 2V each for red, 3V each for green, blue and white you will see that you have to drop 6V across the resistor for the red, 3V across the resistors for the other colours.
Let's say that the LED current is set to be 50mA when run at 12V, so the resistor would be 60 Ohms (3/0.05) for G/B/W, 120 Ohms (6/0.05)for R.
Now up the voltage to 14.4V, the voltage across the LED chips stays pretty constant but the voltage dropped across the resistors will increase. But by how much?
The supply voltage has gone from 12 to 14.4, a 20% increase.
G/B/W fare worst, the voltage drop across the resistor has gone from 3 to 5.4, an 83% increase. Therefore the current through the LEDs has increased by the same 83% to about 92mA.
R is not as bad, the voltage drop has gone up from 6 to 8.4, only a 40% increase.
Because the output voltage is so close to the input voltage, a conventional regulator can't really be used. They need about 2-3V "headroom".
So, you could get a boost converter and run a 24V LED system, or a buck-boost or "SEPIC" converter to run a 12V LED system.
You would probably want to shut the power off to the converter when the lights were not in use, they will have a quiescent drain of maybe 10-20mA with no load.
@@simonparkinson1053 Wow! Thanks Simon. A Level Physics revisited - except they didn't have LEDs back then, we were lucky to get candles!. I have been looking at Cllena Buck-Boost devices which seem to meet the need at a reasonable price. These might also change the game when it comes to charging electric toothbrushes on the boat (first world problems anyone?). Thanks again for taking the time to provide such a detailed response, it is appreciated!
I tried to pay attention but my eyes kept getting drawn to the face on your tee shirt!
Perfect timing as needed to an LED setup but didn't want to get the Chinese burn the house down crap.
why a controler? I just wire my cool white up directly to 12v
For a single colour you just connect the 12V, but for multiple colours or dimming a controller is required.
@@jwflame Right I understand now
I tried playing it on my reel to reel tape recorder, it said that Ringo was dead 😢
😂
A negative tip psu required.. You missed that detail.
Whether you need positive or negative tip depends on the brand and design of controller. Once you start doing your own soldered, permanent connections that sort of thing is easily sorted. He did stress the importance of correct polarity. If he'd said "negative tip" people might assume that is always what they need.
@@tobysherring1369 When you reverse-bias a diode more than it's maximum reverse voltage, that is what kills them, it blows the P-N junction apart inside the LED.
@@mikeZL3XD7029 I know. My point was that you can easily change the wiring to make sure the PSU output polarity is correct. If you have a positive tip PSU, cut off the plug and hard wire. JW said hard wiring is preferable for installations and was very clear about getting the polarity correct. JW doesn't tend to "miss that detail".
Alexa heard every word you said and she's deeply offended about your remarks. :-)
I thought the tapes were either 5v or 12v as in WS2811
Those allow the individual LEDs to be different colours, which is only of use if you want flashing coloured lights strobing around a room. They also create vast amounts of radio interference.
@@jwflame A mix tape?
@@bdf2718 Baddum, tish. XD
The problem with a lot of these tapes are the LEDS are garbage and fail within 6 months.
...or they are allowed to run hot, and/or with inadequate voltage control and badly regulated PSU.
lol