Great video! Our son had crashed (he's ok) and the steering got out of alignment. This video shows how to take the front headset apart so we could realign it. Because it was out of alignment - it was quite a bit of work to get al the parts out - once we cot the castlenut out, we had to use a sledgehammer banging on the castlenut wrench (shown in this video - to get it all disassembled as it was all wedged in the front headset. Be sure to put the wheel back on the correct way (we had it backwards) otherwise you'll spend lots of time trying to figure out why it's not working!
My e45 requires the non-crown looking tool (I bought the crown one instead of the correct one) anyway, when I took off the stem, i noticed the three (3) reattachable white connectors, but also two additional wires that no way of being disconnected. Did you find this issue as well?
@@yourfrenchtools7807 my Ninebot e45 has two additional wires that DO Not disconnect easily. Is this something that you have heard about. Also, i bought the wrong tool, I needed the square one, not the crown one. Thank you
I was wondering the same thing, but it's unlikely they will tell you as, quite reasonably, they want to sell tools. I was thinking of just putting different nut sizes down there and seeing if they fit, then retrieving them with a magnet but no guarantee that will work. Otherwise I'm going to try and find a detailed part list for the scooter somewhere and get the info that way.
@@vasvizsla Cool, thanks for that. I have been experimenting today, with a few trips the hardware store in-between, and have managed to fit an M10 nut in there (with some play) so its not perfect. I have an M12 bolt to try as well but I Have a feeling that will be too big, we will see tomorrow. My suspicion is that its an Imperial fitting, maybe 7/16" imperial size nut or around there as it would be the in-between equivalent of the M10 and M12 bolt (couldn't find an M11, I'm not even sure there is one!) Something I didn't mention is that I had to drill out the centre of the nut, removing it's threads completely to make enough room to get all the cables through, the cables, in my opinion, are the real pain in the butt in all of this! The negate the use of Box Spanners, as all the cables wont fit inside of it, from my experience anyway. So essay over, but we are making some progress I'd say, for the DIYers, I'll post here again if I get more success later on.
@@vasvizsla Good to hear your research has been going well too :) I have some info to share as well that you might be interested in. So I think we are right, I think the 18mm spanner size (thanks for that term, it gets confusing) is the right one, I messed with the 7/16" (17.46mm) size, which actually yielded decent results, there is a little play but it works. The first reason I stuck with it is, as we both discovered, M11 isn't really a thing, check out McMaster Carr and you hardly find a thing for it, at least not the conventual nut we are looking for. Second reason being I decided to try 3D printing, just to give it a go. So I designed a bit that would glue onto a hollow aluminium pole (18mm inner diameter 20mm outer). Printed it, glued it, let it dry for half a day and drilled two holed in the top for a bar to go through so I could twist with some torque.... Guess which broke first? The aluminium pole tore were the two holes and bar were, tore straight through! The print, on the other hand, showed some minor marks. Really I was quite surprised. So today I picked up a steel pole (17mm inner 20mm outer) bit tougher, redesigned the printed part am gluing it as we speak. We will see what happens, I'll give you an update when I know more. ps. Nice chatting about this 🙂
@@vasvizsla Jealous you have a welder! Tell me how it goes when you get it done, but yeah hopefully we are on the right track towards fixing our scooters. cheers!
@@vasvizsla Great news! It sounds like we have the same outcome, but reached it in different ways. I also have the small residual wobble but, like you, its way way better than before. About that movement, I noticed that the bearings themselves had a little movement (mine were the sealed kind, hard to grease) not much but a little. And on top of that I noticed that the hex shaped bar that slides into the main body (the bit that is attached to the wheel and moves up and down with the spring) has a bit of play. resulting in slight movement in the wheel itself but does not translate to the handle bar. In case you are interested, as I don't have access to a welder or even the ability to braze. So I decided to make my own tool by glueing a nut, about the same size as yours, to the end of a 1/2 inch plumbing pipe, found at the local hardware store, and filed down the pipe using the glued on nut as my guide. Got it to the rough shape, removed the guide nut and it worked, believe it or not! I did put some locktight on the loose nuts when I reassembled so I really hope that increases the amount of time I need to do this again! Anyway, thanks for the update and happy riding! ps. really need an extra battery for it though.
Hello, I'm not too familiar with this scooter. If you take out the tube, you should see a toothed bolt which you can use for taking out and repairing the steering axle. Clement.
Hello, I don't know this scooter. on the other hand, it seems that on these models, the play comes from the handlebar attachment, as on the xiaomi models.
Great video! Our son had crashed (he's ok) and the steering got out of alignment. This video shows how to take the front headset apart so we could realign it. Because it was out of alignment - it was quite a bit of work to get al the parts out - once we cot the castlenut out, we had to use a sledgehammer banging on the castlenut wrench (shown in this video - to get it all disassembled as it was all wedged in the front headset. Be sure to put the wheel back on the correct way (we had it backwards) otherwise you'll spend lots of time trying to figure out why it's not working!
Hello,
Thank you for your comment !
Glad you were able to fix your scooter
Thank's for your video and tool, I finally got my E45E fixed !!!
The Ninebot after-sales service is really castastrophic, i lost my time with them.
Hello, glad to have been able to help you 👌
Ride safe !
My e45 requires the non-crown looking tool (I bought the crown one instead of the correct one) anyway, when I took off the stem, i noticed the three (3) reattachable white connectors, but also two additional wires that no way of being disconnected. Did you find this issue as well?
@@yourfrenchtools7807 my Ninebot e45 has two additional wires that DO Not disconnect easily. Is this something that you have heard about. Also, i bought the wrong tool, I needed the square one, not the crown one. Thank you
@@increiblepelotudo hello,
Can you send me an email at : yourfrenchtools@gmail.com
I will find a solution for you
Thnak you very much for creating this video, it's the best tutorial that I could find
I really appreciate your comment, thank you !
Good, informative video. Thank you. Is it possible to use a box spanner instead of the special tool for the E25E?
Hello, thank's !
Due to the câble, you can't use a box splanner
Take his word for it, It doesn't work, like he said, the cables get in the way. Shame as it would be an easy fix!
Hi
What bearing set do i need for my e25e?
Thanks
Hi,
It is generally not necessary to change the bearings on scooters.
Hi, how many millimeters is nut on e25 tool? I'll make this tool by myself, but I need to know how big nut I have to weld.
I was wondering the same thing, but it's unlikely they will tell you as, quite reasonably, they want to sell tools. I was thinking of just putting different nut sizes down there and seeing if they fit, then retrieving them with a magnet but no guarantee that will work. Otherwise I'm going to try and find a detailed part list for the scooter somewhere and get the info that way.
@@vasvizsla Cool, thanks for that. I have been experimenting today, with a few trips the hardware store in-between, and have managed to fit an M10 nut in there (with some play) so its not perfect. I have an M12 bolt to try as well but I Have a feeling that will be too big, we will see tomorrow.
My suspicion is that its an Imperial fitting, maybe 7/16" imperial size nut or around there as it would be the in-between equivalent of the M10 and M12 bolt (couldn't find an M11, I'm not even sure there is one!)
Something I didn't mention is that I had to drill out the centre of the nut, removing it's threads completely to make enough room to get all the cables through, the cables, in my opinion, are the real pain in the butt in all of this! The negate the use of Box Spanners, as all the cables wont fit inside of it, from my experience anyway.
So essay over, but we are making some progress I'd say, for the DIYers, I'll post here again if I get more success later on.
@@vasvizsla Good to hear your research has been going well too :) I have some info to share as well that you might be interested in.
So I think we are right, I think the 18mm spanner size (thanks for that term, it gets confusing) is the right one, I messed with the 7/16" (17.46mm) size, which actually yielded decent results, there is a little play but it works. The first reason I stuck with it is, as we both discovered, M11 isn't really a thing, check out McMaster Carr and you hardly find a thing for it, at least not the conventual nut we are looking for.
Second reason being I decided to try 3D printing, just to give it a go.
So I designed a bit that would glue onto a hollow aluminium pole (18mm inner diameter 20mm outer). Printed it, glued it, let it dry for half a day and drilled two holed in the top for a bar to go through so I could twist with some torque.... Guess which broke first?
The aluminium pole tore were the two holes and bar were, tore straight through! The print, on the other hand, showed some minor marks. Really I was quite surprised.
So today I picked up a steel pole (17mm inner 20mm outer) bit tougher, redesigned the printed part am gluing it as we speak.
We will see what happens, I'll give you an update when I know more.
ps. Nice chatting about this 🙂
@@vasvizsla Jealous you have a welder! Tell me how it goes when you get it done, but yeah hopefully we are on the right track towards fixing our scooters. cheers!
@@vasvizsla Great news! It sounds like we have the same outcome, but reached it in different ways. I also have the small residual wobble but, like you, its way way better than before.
About that movement, I noticed that the bearings themselves had a little movement (mine were the sealed kind, hard to grease) not much but a little. And on top of that I noticed that the hex shaped bar that slides into the main body (the bit that is attached to the wheel and moves up and down with the spring) has a bit of play. resulting in slight movement in the wheel itself but does not translate to the handle bar.
In case you are interested, as I don't have access to a welder or even the ability to braze. So I decided to make my own tool by glueing a nut, about the same size as yours, to the end of a 1/2 inch plumbing pipe, found at the local hardware store, and filed down the pipe using the glued on nut as my guide. Got it to the rough shape, removed the guide nut and it worked, believe it or not!
I did put some locktight on the loose nuts when I reassembled so I really hope that increases the amount of time I need to do this again!
Anyway, thanks for the update and happy riding!
ps. really need an extra battery for it though.
What do you do if the scooter cannot fold? I have an es4 that is unable to fold and I cannot reach the 2 screws
Hello, you never fold your scooter?
Did you fixed it ?
Does this work for the es4-800 model? It is nonfolding.
Hello,
I'm not too familiar with this scooter. If you take out the tube, you should see a toothed bolt which you can use for taking out and repairing the steering axle.
Clement.
nice job on vid
Thank you very much, I appreciate
What about EVERCROSS?!?! Plz help model ev10z
Hello,
I don't know this scooter.
on the other hand, it seems that on these models, the play comes from the handlebar attachment, as on the xiaomi models.
the item says currently unavailable so i cant buy it on amazon
Hello,
The tool is still available on Amazon in all marketplaces, except in Japan.
Do you still have any issues ?
What about the E22D model it is not the same
Hello,
I'm not aware of any difference in the nuts on this model.
To my knowledge, the E** range uses the same exagonal nut.
5:55 you are aware of the fact that the you are not greesing anything on the modél e? 😂😂😂
I'm actually greasing the bearing covers.
Fortunately, I've gained a lot of experience in DIY since then haha