It's fantastic for trim, doors, cabinets, furniture, etc. Because it's alkyd resins it can slightly yellow over time, but not nearly as much as a traditional oil paint would. Of course, how much that would be noticeable would depend on how white the white is. A very crisp bright white will show it more. That said, all of my doors and trim are a crisp bright white in Advance and I don't see any yellowing after about about five years. If there is any, it's not noticeable.
Unfortunately, with paint there's almost always more than one possible reason behind problems. With adhesion issues the most common reason is not priming or using the wrong primer (There are many different types primers and using an all-purpose primer if you needed an adhesion primer won't give you enough adhesion). Another possible reason is some sort of contaminate on the surface before painting. That could be oil/grease if it's in the kitchen, something sprayed in the air that collects on the surface (hair spray, air freshener, etc.), dust, or even residue from the cleaner you used to clean the walls before painting if you didn't rinse well enough. Unfortunately, I don't have enough information to be able to narrow down the cause. You can also go to Benjamin Moore's website and scroll down to the bottom and click on contact us. There's a submission form as well as a homeowner's support number to call and talk to someone. They're excellent.
It's hard to give you a blanket answer that one type of roller is better because there are vast quality differences within each type. Generally, you want a very low nap (length of the fibres) for smooth surfaces. My advice would be to ask at your local Benjamin Moore store, you'll get someone that can give you good advice based on what they happen to sell.
They're both very good, as is Insl-X Stix adhesion primer. (Insl-X is also a Benjamin Moore company) The key is the surface prep though, make sure it's clean and give all surfaces a light sand to degloss and give the primer a bit of a mechanical bond. And give the primer a light sand as well before you paint. Primer doesn't level like paint so there will be texture there.
@@Avital4414 I doubt it (never done a side by side), but all primers are going to need to be sanded. They're easy to sand, so if there is a difference it wouldn't be much. The better question is what primer gives better adhesion. It doesn't really matter how good it looks if it chips over time. (Chipping is an adhesion issue) We kind of lean towards Stix for adhesion, but all three are good.
You can, there's a "but" though. If you use a poly over paint there's a couple things to consider. One, not all polyurethanes, even waterbased, are actually clear and may change the color of your paint. Benjamin Moore's "Stays Clear" and Old masters "Masters Armor" are both very clear. Also, make sure you let the paint cure before you apply a clear coat. Paint dries in hours, but takes much longer to fully cure. (Use twenty days as a general guideline.) If you seal moisture in before it gets a chance to fully evaporate out, you'll most likely end up with air bubbles. As for durability though, Advance is very durable on it's own. I've used it on furniture and never felt the need to top coat it. Hope that helps.
No, sorry I don't. That said, any sort of video screen distorts color, so the color you're seeing on the screen isn't exactly what it would look like in person. Take your phone to a Benjamin Moore store, pause the video, and get an associate to help you find a similar color you like.
Since BM Advance has self-leveling properties, would it look much different using an HVLP spray gun vs rolling/brush? My current cabinets look smooth and I don't want to see brush strokes with the new paint job. Any advice is appreciated.
The problem with using an HVLP is that they aren't really meant for thick paints. They're designed for thinner clear coats. To get it to spray paint you may have to thin it, and if you do that you're degrading the quality. That said, not all HVLP sprayers are created equally, if you have a really good one it may work.
@@dchambers986 A couple of clarifications; 1) HVLP sprayers aren't meant for paint or any thick product. That doesn't say anything about the paint, just the wrong type of sprayer. 2) Advance is a premium product geared towards both professional and retail customers. (We sell more to professionals than retail customers, all of whom rave about it) 3) All paints are ready to spray, but that's based on using the right type of sprayer. Better quality paints that are thicker may be a challenge for cheaper sprayers with smaller motors and may need to be thinned a bit. (Airless are meant for paints and primers, HVLP's are meant for thinner clear coats. For instance, you won't get great results with your conversion varnish with an airless sprayer, but that's no fault of the conversion varnish, just the wrong type of sprayer) 4) You're right about conversion varnishes being a good product, Benjamin Moore has one as well, but it's a totally different product. Advance is a paint, conversion varnish is a two part lacquer that must be sprayed, and in a lot of places can only be legally sprayed in a spray booth. 5) It is possible to get very good results brushing or rolling Advance. Yes spraying may be better, but with Advance it's not worlds apart it really does level beautifully. 6) Not everyone has the budget to hire a painter with a sprayer or buy a sprayer of their own, that doesn't make them chumps. 7) As a professional, if you need spraying instructions for a product, you can always go to the manufacturers website (or one of their stores) and download the TDS sheet. That will give you recommended tip size, etc.
@Leduc Wall Fashions, Maybe this is what you call a professional product, I have to disagree. I used it once - only at a customer's request for a custom job and ensure a match with existing installation). I have never even heard of a commercial shop (cabinets or furniture) using rollers, and I'm friends with the field reps for SW, Mohawk and MLC in this area (that's a better source of info, get them to come demo their products if you can). We don't use paint at all as a general rule - and the dry time alone on "Advance" precludes it's use in a commercial shop - along with the inferior performance metrics (as with most "paints"). Moreover - I wouldn't use a "new" finish product (especially a waterborne one) on a commercial line - too much at stake. But I don't paint/repaint one kitchen/house at a time either - I'm sure there are times when using a roller is appropriate (I use a 9" with a heavy nap, for applying PVA glue). Just my opinions, we can disagree. You keep rolling along - I'll keep spraying.
Hello from Oregon. What is it about IKEA cabinets that cannot be painted over, according to salesperson? I see a few paint products, like Advance, that can transform cabinets to another color, but why not on such IKEA cabinets? Thank you.
Out of context, I'm not sure what he was getting at? (Most things can be painted, there are a few exceptions, but not many.) IKEA cabinets can be painted, the key is the prep work before the paint. You'll want to clean them very well, give them a light scuff sand, and use an "adhesion" primer, not an all purpose primer that says it has good adhesion. We recommend Insl-x Stix primer (Insl-x is a Benjamin Moore company) You'll also want to give the primer a light sand too. Primers don't level like paint and on a smooth surface that texture will show after you paint over it. For paint, yes Advance would be your best option, it really is a beautiful product.
@@Shakashack2022 You're welcome. The foil wrap poses the same adhesion problem as oil paint, polyurethane, etc. Same procedure, scuff sand, coat with Stix primer, light sand, two coats of Advance. Also, if you have the time, adhesion primers will achieve better adhesion if you can leave them for 24 hours before you top coat them.
There's not really one right answer to that. Generally, yeah you can roll, just make sure you have the right roller for the job. If you're painting something smooth, like a cabinet or door, make sure you're using a very low nap roller so you don't get added texture. (Nap refers to the length of the fibres. 1/4" (5mm) is good for smooth surfaces) If you get some texture when you roll you can go back over it with a brush to smooth it.
When you say acrylic, I assume you mean a clear coat of some sort (there are many). You can, just don't do it right away, you need to let the paint cure. A good rule of thumb is to wait 3-4 weeks. Also, you'll want to use a water-based polyurethane like Benjamin Moore's Stays Clear or Old Master's Masters Armor. The reason I mention those two in particular is that they're both very clear so they won't effect the color of the paint much.
Hi Aliza It depends on the paint you use. If you use a regular latex (water based) paint I would say go with the semi-gloss. (Latex paints get their durability through sheen. They're softer than oils by nature and need more resins at the surface to achieve durability.) Because Advance has alkyd resins it dries hard like a traditional oil paint so you'll get durability from either.
I came across a post on pinterest for refinishing MDF cabinets, you peel off the laminate then paint but one post suggested Benjamin Moore aura paint and another suggested an oil based primer first to seal, then I came across this paint... what would you suggest?
Not sure I'd be too keen on peeling off the laminate. I'd be scared it would pull chunks of MDF off with it. You can paint the laminate with a bit of prep (clean and a bit of a scuff sand to degloss) and a good adhesion primer. We would recommend Stix primer and Advance paint. (Aura really is amazing, but for cabinets I would go with Advance. Actually, I have it on my cabinets) Advance is a waterborne Alkyd. What that means is that it's alkyd resins, which is oil, but they're waterborne. So it smells like a latex paint and cleans up with soap and water, but like an oil paint it dries very hard. It also dries slowly like an oil so your brush and roller marks have a chance to level before it dries. Truly the best of both worlds. Your local Benjamin Moore store will have these products and the knowledge to help you out.
The Matte is actually meant for walls where you don't need the durability you need on trim/ doors/cabinets. It's durable for a matte, but it's still a matte, so no it's not as durable as semi-gloss.
@@leducwallfashions oh ok. So it is probably not a good idea for cabinets? I thought the whole line of advanced paint is for cabinet. I might misunderstood.
@@od2437 The matte came out later, after Advance was established as a great cabinet paint so it's a bit unclear. Advance isn't a cabinet paint per say, It's a waterborne alkyd. What that means is that it's alkyd resins (oil), but they're waterborne. So, it smells like a latex paint, cleans up with soap and water, like a latex, but it dries slow, like an oil, and hard, like an oil. The slow dry time and drying hard makes it great for cabinets,trim, furniture, doors, etc. The line wasn't developed for cabinets, it's just that the pearl, semi-gloss, and gloss are fantastic choices for that use. Hope that makes it more clear, paint can be a bit confusing. To be a bit self-serving, that's why Benjamin Moore stores are so good, we can help you get the right product for your specific project.
Great video. Thanks for all the helpful info you've been giving us. I have 80s oak cabinets and want to paint them with a brush & roller. After watching your videos I decided on BM Advance. The idea was, Coverstain oil bonding primer, then BM Fresh Start water based primer, then 2 coats of Advance. Went to BM store and they said that since I'm using the coverstain primer, I won't need the water based Fresh Start on top of that. What's your opinion on skipping Fresh Start? I don't want unnecessary work but at the same time I don't want to screw it up. Thanks Tom
Yeah, they're right. The only reason you need a primer in the first place is for adhesion because of the clear coat that's on the cabinets. (lacquer, polyurethane, etc) Your bonding primer will do that for you. Now, one thing to know before you start is that oak is a very open grain wood, meaning that the grain is three dimensional not just visual. If you were hoping the extra coat of primer might fill the grain, unfortunately it won't. Film finishes like paint and primer go on in micron thicknesses so they won't fill, they'll just go with whatever texture is there. (Like the varnish that's on it now) If you want to fill the grain, you can, but it's a lot of work. (check RUclips for grain filling oak. The Wood Whisperer has a good one) Also, if you go with the lower sheen satin Advance instead of the semi gloss you won't notice it as much.
@@leducwallfashions Yes, filling grain would be too much work for my 25+ doors. I guess I'll need to sand smooth before my oil based primer and see how it looks. Thanks
@@tomprzytula I wouldn't put too much effort into sanding before you prime, just give it a light scuff to give the primer a better surface to bond to. You'll never get it smooth by sanding, the grain goes all the way through the wood. Think of a sponge, as you go down through it you just expose more bubbles, you never get a smooth surface. That said, with the less shiny satin finish it's really not that bad.
@@leducwallfashions how about one coat of primer and 3 coats of Advance paint (instead of 2 top coats)? I realize I won't get rid of all grain, just trying to minimize it...
@@tomprzytula Unfortunately, that won't really do much. It's like fixing dents or gouges in your wall, you need joint compound. I'd also be concerned about the paint curing properly if you do three coats. The solvent in the first coat may not be able to evaporate out fully during the curing process, which could lead to problems down the road. To be honest, we always warn people when they're painting oak, but everyone's always happy with the results. It's just good to know what to expect going in.
SCUFF-X wouldn't be a bad option, but I would still go with Advance. SCUFF-X is meant for walls and doors that get a lot of scuffs, (think walls near loading bays that have carts and ladders rubbing on the walls constantly) and it really is amazing. Advance will level better because of the longer re-coat time though.
No poly finish? I saw another video where they added about 1 part paint to 2 parts poly to give a harder, but colored, finish. Not seeing how this paint won't chip right off without a topcoat of some kind.
You can do that, but chipping is more of an adhesion issue than a durability issue. Adhesion is addressed by the scuff sand and adhesion primer used before painting. As for durability, Advance is a "very" durable paint. How durable you need your paint to be is dependent on what you're painting. Painting cabinets you need durable for sure, but not as durable as you would need if you were painting shelves for instance, where you'll be sliding things. The advantage of top coating paint for something that will get the abuse of shelves is not so much that polyurethane won't scratch (it will), but you won't see the scratches as easily in a clear coat as you will in a color coat. That's why cars get multiple coats of clear, they take much more abuse than a cabinet door will. Hope that helps.
Leduc Wall Fashions I painted my kitchen cabinet interiors and shelves as well (white). I bought general finishes water based satin top coat. Was going to apply multiple coats (x3) to mitigate the scratching with ‘the sliding things’ issue.
@@johnc1280 That's a good idea. The only thing to watch for is an unwanted color change when you use a clear coat. Even the water-based clear coats can be a bit yellowish. I'm not sure about the General Finishes, great quality, but I'm not sure how clear it is. If you try a bit and it isn't clear find a store that sells either Benjamin Moore Stays Clear or Old Masters "Masters Armor" (not their water-based polyurethane) both are very clear.
I can't believe Ben Moore doesn't emphasize the importance of exact type of roller and ESPECIALLY how NOT to use too much paint on your brush or roller! You absolutely CANNOT load up your roller or brush as if you are painting a wall or it will look horrible, thick, will chip off quicker and look textured.
True, they don't give specific recommendations in the video, but there are literally hundreds of different rollers and brushes on the market and every store is going to have a different selection. There are lots of very good options and if you're buying Benjamin Moore paint, you're in a Benjamin Moore store and you will be given recommendations on applicators. I would never let someone grab the wrong roller without tactfully suggesting one that would work better. That's just the service you would expect from a Benjamin Moore store.
I think you might be confusing dry time with cure time. Advance is dry to the touch in 4-6 hours, but like all paints cure time is much longer. A good ballpark generalization for most paints is 20 days to fully cure (Some are a bit more or a bit less).
Come on guys. Step one when painting cabinets, at least if you're going for a factory finish is put the rollers/brushes away and pick up a spray gun. A FF tip on an airless or a HVLP/pressure pot setup depending on the type of equipment you have, but, unless you're going for a really rustic finish, brushes/rollers aren't going to look close to what you'd see in a painted cabinet from the factory. Another good hint, when you're looking for cabinet paint, if they don't give tip sizes for HVLP on the back of the can, keep looking. You should be able to spray good cabinet paint through a 2.0 tip without any thinning, or a 1.7 or 1.4 with some thinning/Floetrol. If you're thinning the heck out the paint to get it through a 2.0, again, stop and go get real sprayable paint.
@@barnes80 Shallac based BIN (red can), no problem through a 1.4. Cover stain, probably also OK (depends on the brand). SW Emerald, not a chance in he** that's going through a 1.4. You need at least a 2.0; the last time I used it, I actually had to use my airless. I was NOT a fan of that paint at all for cabinets, it didn't setup hard enough. I know it's supposedly designed for cabinets, but it would never be my first (or even 2nd/3rd/4th) choice. Target Coatings pigmented lacquer sprays great through a 2.0 and sets up nice and hard in ~1 day. Or a traditional lacquer if you have the ability to control the fumes and can deal with the flammability.
Do you know the colour of the kitchen island before you painted it blue? I really like it! lol
No I don't, sorry.
Is this good for trim? Will the white stain turn yellow?
It's fantastic for trim, doors, cabinets, furniture, etc. Because it's alkyd resins it can slightly yellow over time, but not nearly as much as a traditional oil paint would. Of course, how much that would be noticeable would depend on how white the white is. A very crisp bright white will show it more. That said, all of my doors and trim are a crisp bright white in Advance and I don't see any yellowing after about about five years. If there is any, it's not noticeable.
@@leducwallfashions great thanks. I was thinking to get a more muted white tone rather than a brilliant white.
@@mryan4452 I really don't think you have any issue. I think you'll love the finish and durability you get with Advance!
I found it peeled in some places store said just lightly sand and paint
Unfortunately, with paint there's almost always more than one possible reason behind problems. With adhesion issues the most common reason is not priming or using the wrong primer (There are many different types primers and using an all-purpose primer if you needed an adhesion primer won't give you enough adhesion). Another possible reason is some sort of contaminate on the surface before painting. That could be oil/grease if it's in the kitchen, something sprayed in the air that collects on the surface (hair spray, air freshener, etc.), dust, or even residue from the cleaner you used to clean the walls before painting if you didn't rinse well enough. Unfortunately, I don't have enough information to be able to narrow down the cause. You can also go to Benjamin Moore's website and scroll down to the bottom and click on contact us. There's a submission form as well as a homeowner's support number to call and talk to someone. They're excellent.
for furniture I don't want an orange peel finish. Is the microfibet or flocked roller better? Want smoothest finish
It's hard to give you a blanket answer that one type of roller is better because there are vast quality differences within each type. Generally, you want a very low nap (length of the fibres) for smooth surfaces. My advice would be to ask at your local Benjamin Moore store, you'll get someone that can give you good advice based on what they happen to sell.
Excellent advice. Is it better to use Advance primer rather than Fresh Start?
They're both very good, as is Insl-X Stix adhesion primer. (Insl-X is also a Benjamin Moore company) The key is the surface prep though, make sure it's clean and give all surfaces a light sand to degloss and give the primer a bit of a mechanical bond. And give the primer a light sand as well before you paint. Primer doesn't level like paint so there will be texture there.
@@leducwallfashions thank you. I guess I’m wondering whether one of these primers leaves more texture than the others.
@@Avital4414 I doubt it (never done a side by side), but all primers are going to need to be sanded. They're easy to sand, so if there is a difference it wouldn't be much. The better question is what primer gives better adhesion. It doesn't really matter how good it looks if it chips over time. (Chipping is an adhesion issue) We kind of lean towards Stix for adhesion, but all three are good.
@@leducwallfashions thank you. I used Stix in the past, and I will pick up some more. Extremely helpful
@@Avital4414 You're welcome!
What about using a poly to make sure extra durable?
You can, there's a "but" though. If you use a poly over paint there's a couple things to consider. One, not all polyurethanes, even waterbased, are actually clear and may change the color of your paint. Benjamin Moore's "Stays Clear" and Old masters "Masters Armor" are both very clear. Also, make sure you let the paint cure before you apply a clear coat. Paint dries in hours, but takes much longer to fully cure. (Use twenty days as a general guideline.) If you seal moisture in before it gets a chance to fully evaporate out, you'll most likely end up with air bubbles. As for durability though, Advance is very durable on it's own. I've used it on furniture and never felt the need to top coat it. Hope that helps.
My fiancé and I are painting our cabinets and love this color, so you know the color by chance?
No, sorry I don't. That said, any sort of video screen distorts color, so the color you're seeing on the screen isn't exactly what it would look like in person. Take your phone to a Benjamin Moore store, pause the video, and get an associate to help you find a similar color you like.
On the Benjamin Moore website it says Blueberry Hill 812.
Blue
Since BM Advance has self-leveling properties, would it look much different using an HVLP spray gun vs rolling/brush?
My current cabinets look smooth and I don't want to see brush strokes with the new paint job. Any advice is appreciated.
The problem with using an HVLP is that they aren't really meant for thick paints. They're designed for thinner clear coats. To get it to spray paint you may have to thin it, and if you do that you're degrading the quality. That said, not all HVLP sprayers are created equally, if you have a really good one it may work.
Use a Sherwin Williams 4” velour roller sleeve almost looks like spray coat
@@dchambers986 A couple of clarifications;
1) HVLP sprayers aren't meant for paint or any thick product. That doesn't say anything about the paint, just the wrong type of sprayer.
2) Advance is a premium product geared towards both professional and retail customers. (We sell more to professionals than retail customers, all of whom rave about it)
3) All paints are ready to spray, but that's based on using the right type of sprayer. Better quality paints that are thicker may be a challenge for cheaper sprayers with smaller motors and may need to be thinned a bit. (Airless are meant for paints and primers, HVLP's are meant for thinner clear coats. For instance, you won't get great results with your conversion varnish with an airless sprayer, but that's no fault of the conversion varnish, just the wrong type of sprayer)
4) You're right about conversion varnishes being a good product, Benjamin Moore has one as well, but it's a totally different product. Advance is a paint, conversion varnish is a two part lacquer that must be sprayed, and in a lot of places can only be legally sprayed in a spray booth.
5) It is possible to get very good results brushing or rolling Advance. Yes spraying may be better, but with Advance it's not worlds apart it really does level beautifully.
6) Not everyone has the budget to hire a painter with a sprayer or buy a sprayer of their own, that doesn't make them chumps.
7) As a professional, if you need spraying instructions for a product, you can always go to the manufacturers website (or one of their stores) and download the TDS sheet. That will give you recommended tip size, etc.
@Leduc Wall Fashions,
Maybe this is what you call a professional product, I have to disagree. I used it once - only at a customer's request for a custom job and ensure a match with existing installation). I have never even heard of a commercial shop (cabinets or furniture) using rollers, and I'm friends with the field reps for SW, Mohawk and MLC in this area (that's a better source of info, get them to come demo their products if you can). We don't use paint at all as a general rule - and the dry time alone on "Advance" precludes it's use in a commercial shop - along with the inferior performance metrics (as with most "paints"). Moreover - I wouldn't use a "new" finish product (especially a waterborne one) on a commercial line - too much at stake. But I don't paint/repaint one kitchen/house at a time either - I'm sure there are times when using a roller is appropriate (I use a 9" with a heavy nap, for applying PVA glue). Just my opinions, we can disagree. You keep rolling along - I'll keep spraying.
ruclips.net/video/Uk8kS-rWkaI/видео.html Here's a guy spraying Advanced, not an HVLP though.
Hello from Oregon. What is it about IKEA cabinets that cannot be painted over, according to salesperson? I see a few paint products, like Advance, that can transform cabinets to another color, but why not on such IKEA cabinets? Thank you.
Out of context, I'm not sure what he was getting at? (Most things can be painted, there are a few exceptions, but not many.) IKEA cabinets can be painted, the key is the prep work before the paint. You'll want to clean them very well, give them a light scuff sand, and use an "adhesion" primer, not an all purpose primer that says it has good adhesion. We recommend Insl-x Stix primer (Insl-x is a Benjamin Moore company) You'll also want to give the primer a light sand too. Primers don't level like paint and on a smooth surface that texture will show after you paint over it. For paint, yes Advance would be your best option, it really is a beautiful product.
@@leducwallfashions Thank you for your helpful reply! The IKEA cabinets have a foil finish, if this matters.
@@Shakashack2022 You're welcome. The foil wrap poses the same adhesion problem as oil paint, polyurethane, etc. Same procedure, scuff sand, coat with Stix primer, light sand, two coats of Advance. Also, if you have the time, adhesion primers will achieve better adhesion if you can leave them for 24 hours before you top coat them.
I see where you roll on the paint but then finish with a brush on the flat surface of the door. Is this recommended? Or can you just roll on?
There's not really one right answer to that. Generally, yeah you can roll, just make sure you have the right roller for the job. If you're painting something smooth, like a cabinet or door, make sure you're using a very low nap roller so you don't get added texture. (Nap refers to the length of the fibres. 1/4" (5mm) is good for smooth surfaces) If you get some texture when you roll you can go back over it with a brush to smooth it.
You could apply in any way, even with sucking paint up with a straw and blowing it out on top of your surface
Can you put a semi gloss acrylic finish over it as well?
When you say acrylic, I assume you mean a clear coat of some sort (there are many). You can, just don't do it right away, you need to let the paint cure. A good rule of thumb is to wait 3-4 weeks. Also, you'll want to use a water-based polyurethane like Benjamin Moore's Stays Clear or Old Master's Masters Armor. The reason I mention those two in particular is that they're both very clear so they won't effect the color of the paint much.
Do you recommend satin over semigloss for cabinets
Hi Aliza
It depends on the paint you use. If you use a regular latex (water based) paint I would say go with the semi-gloss. (Latex paints get their durability through sheen. They're softer than oils by nature and need more resins at the surface to achieve durability.) Because Advance has alkyd resins it dries hard like a traditional oil paint so you'll get durability from either.
I came across a post on pinterest for refinishing MDF cabinets, you peel off the laminate then paint but one post suggested Benjamin Moore aura paint and another suggested an oil based primer first to seal, then I came across this paint... what would you suggest?
Not sure I'd be too keen on peeling off the laminate. I'd be scared it would pull chunks of MDF off with it. You can paint the laminate with a bit of prep (clean and a bit of a scuff sand to degloss) and a good adhesion primer. We would recommend Stix primer and Advance paint. (Aura really is amazing, but for cabinets I would go with Advance. Actually, I have it on my cabinets) Advance is a waterborne Alkyd. What that means is that it's alkyd resins, which is oil, but they're waterborne. So it smells like a latex paint and cleans up with soap and water, but like an oil paint it dries very hard. It also dries slowly like an oil so your brush and roller marks have a chance to level before it dries. Truly the best of both worlds. Your local Benjamin Moore store will have these products and the knowledge to help you out.
@@leducwallfashions You can peel the laminate using a hair dryer...it peels off like a clementin
Is the matte finish advance paint less durable than the semi gloss?
The Matte is actually meant for walls where you don't need the durability you need on trim/ doors/cabinets. It's durable for a matte, but it's still a matte, so no it's not as durable as semi-gloss.
@@leducwallfashions oh ok. So it is probably not a good idea for cabinets? I thought the whole line of advanced paint is for cabinet. I might misunderstood.
@@od2437 The matte came out later, after Advance was established as a great cabinet paint so it's a bit unclear. Advance isn't a cabinet paint per say, It's a waterborne alkyd. What that means is that it's alkyd resins (oil), but they're waterborne. So, it smells like a latex paint, cleans up with soap and water, like a latex, but it dries slow, like an oil, and hard, like an oil. The slow dry time and drying hard makes it great for cabinets,trim, furniture, doors, etc. The line wasn't developed for cabinets, it's just that the pearl, semi-gloss, and gloss are fantastic choices for that use. Hope that makes it more clear, paint can be a bit confusing. To be a bit self-serving, that's why Benjamin Moore stores are so good, we can help you get the right product for your specific project.
@@leducwallfashions got it. Thank you so much!
@@od2437 You're welcome
Great video. Thanks for all the helpful info you've been giving us.
I have 80s oak cabinets and want to paint them with a brush & roller.
After watching your videos I decided on BM Advance. The idea was, Coverstain oil bonding primer, then BM Fresh Start water based primer, then 2 coats of Advance.
Went to BM store and they said that since I'm using the coverstain primer, I won't need the water based Fresh Start on top of that.
What's your opinion on skipping Fresh Start?
I don't want unnecessary work but at the same time I don't want to screw it up.
Thanks
Tom
Yeah, they're right. The only reason you need a primer in the first place is for adhesion because of the clear coat that's on the cabinets. (lacquer, polyurethane, etc) Your bonding primer will do that for you. Now, one thing to know before you start is that oak is a very open grain wood, meaning that the grain is three dimensional not just visual. If you were hoping the extra coat of primer might fill the grain, unfortunately it won't. Film finishes like paint and primer go on in micron thicknesses so they won't fill, they'll just go with whatever texture is there. (Like the varnish that's on it now) If you want to fill the grain, you can, but it's a lot of work. (check RUclips for grain filling oak. The Wood Whisperer has a good one) Also, if you go with the lower sheen satin Advance instead of the semi gloss you won't notice it as much.
@@leducwallfashions Yes, filling grain would be too much work for my 25+ doors.
I guess I'll need to sand smooth before my oil based primer and see how it looks.
Thanks
@@tomprzytula I wouldn't put too much effort into sanding before you prime, just give it a light scuff to give the primer a better surface to bond to. You'll never get it smooth by sanding, the grain goes all the way through the wood. Think of a sponge, as you go down through it you just expose more bubbles, you never get a smooth surface. That said, with the less shiny satin finish it's really not that bad.
@@leducwallfashions how about one coat of primer and 3 coats of Advance paint (instead of 2 top coats)?
I realize I won't get rid of all grain, just trying to minimize it...
@@tomprzytula Unfortunately, that won't really do much. It's like fixing dents or gouges in your wall, you need joint compound. I'd also be concerned about the paint curing properly if you do three coats. The solvent in the first coat may not be able to evaporate out fully during the curing process, which could lead to problems down the road. To be honest, we always warn people when they're painting oak, but everyone's always happy with the results. It's just good to know what to expect going in.
How long should I wait to apply the second coat?
It's a 16 hour re-coat time.
Nice !
Question? You sure the matte will clean easily in the kitchen ?
V late response from me, but I take it from their lack of response that's a "no" lol
what color is that paint?
Blue
Do you always have to sand between coats?
Yes
Only if you have imperfections
It's totally okay to paint over new unsanded paint
Apply the first coat and wait 16 hours for the second and final coat? Can you apply the second coat less than 16 hours?
Not recommended. It needs time to cure.
I do
He's like a discount nick offerman.
What about using scuff x instead of advance?
SCUFF-X wouldn't be a bad option, but I would still go with Advance. SCUFF-X is meant for walls and doors that get a lot of scuffs, (think walls near loading bays that have carts and ladders rubbing on the walls constantly) and it really is amazing. Advance will level better because of the longer re-coat time though.
Scuff X will not hold up to hand oils. BM has never recommended it for cabinetry.
Don’t use 100 or 150 grit paper! Good grief
No poly finish? I saw another video where they added about 1 part paint to 2 parts poly to give a harder, but colored, finish. Not seeing how this paint won't chip right off without a topcoat of some kind.
You can do that, but chipping is more of an adhesion issue than a durability issue. Adhesion is addressed by the scuff sand and adhesion primer used before painting. As for durability, Advance is a "very" durable paint. How durable you need your paint to be is dependent on what you're painting. Painting cabinets you need durable for sure, but not as durable as you would need if you were painting shelves for instance, where you'll be sliding things. The advantage of top coating paint for something that will get the abuse of shelves is not so much that polyurethane won't scratch (it will), but you won't see the scratches as easily in a clear coat as you will in a color coat. That's why cars get multiple coats of clear, they take much more abuse than a cabinet door will. Hope that helps.
@@leducwallfashions Thanks so much for this, very helpful!!
@@lisadufresne No problem
Leduc Wall Fashions I painted my kitchen cabinet interiors and shelves as well (white). I bought general finishes water based satin top coat. Was going to apply multiple coats (x3) to mitigate the scratching with ‘the sliding things’ issue.
@@johnc1280 That's a good idea. The only thing to watch for is an unwanted color change when you use a clear coat. Even the water-based clear coats can be a bit yellowish. I'm not sure about the General Finishes, great quality, but I'm not sure how clear it is. If you try a bit and it isn't clear find a store that sells either Benjamin Moore Stays Clear or Old Masters "Masters Armor" (not their water-based polyurethane) both are very clear.
I can't believe Ben Moore doesn't emphasize the importance of exact type of roller and ESPECIALLY how NOT to use too much paint on your brush or roller!
You absolutely CANNOT load up your roller or brush as if you are painting a wall or it will look horrible, thick, will chip off quicker and look textured.
True, they don't give specific recommendations in the video, but there are literally hundreds of different rollers and brushes on the market and every store is going to have a different selection. There are lots of very good options and if you're buying Benjamin Moore paint, you're in a Benjamin Moore store and you will be given recommendations on applicators. I would never let someone grab the wrong roller without tactfully suggesting one that would work better. That's just the service you would expect from a Benjamin Moore store.
Only 28 days to dry
I think you might be confusing dry time with cure time. Advance is dry to the touch in 4-6 hours, but like all paints cure time is much longer. A good ballpark generalization for most paints is 20 days to fully cure (Some are a bit more or a bit less).
Come on guys. Step one when painting cabinets, at least if you're going for a factory finish is put the rollers/brushes away and pick up a spray gun. A FF tip on an airless or a HVLP/pressure pot setup depending on the type of equipment you have, but, unless you're going for a really rustic finish, brushes/rollers aren't going to look close to what you'd see in a painted cabinet from the factory.
Another good hint, when you're looking for cabinet paint, if they don't give tip sizes for HVLP on the back of the can, keep looking. You should be able to spray good cabinet paint through a 2.0 tip without any thinning, or a 1.7 or 1.4 with some thinning/Floetrol. If you're thinning the heck out the paint to get it through a 2.0, again, stop and go get real sprayable paint.
Any chance I can spray BIN, Cover Stain, or Sherwin Williams emerald urethane paint through a 1.4mm tip without thinning?
@@barnes80 Shallac based BIN (red can), no problem through a 1.4. Cover stain, probably also OK (depends on the brand). SW Emerald, not a chance in he** that's going through a 1.4. You need at least a 2.0; the last time I used it, I actually had to use my airless. I was NOT a fan of that paint at all for cabinets, it didn't setup hard enough. I know it's supposedly designed for cabinets, but it would never be my first (or even 2nd/3rd/4th) choice. Target Coatings pigmented lacquer sprays great through a 2.0 and sets up nice and hard in ~1 day. Or a traditional lacquer if you have the ability to control the fumes and can deal with the flammability.
What an attractive man....oh yeah, content was useful too
plus blue eyes
@@24ghosh24 What content? Was he saying anything important, I couldn't pay attention, his voice is dreamy too right?
This video is too much 😂