Could you do a video that shows how to wire directly to the arduino? Using the hat makes it impossible to follow for amateurs, especially ones that can't understand schematics. Thanks.
Looks like a fancy soldering iron you have. I have a couple of gas soldering irons. Heat is adjustable on them but may be a bit crude. They keep burning through the removeable tips. Can you recommend your one? Thanks for the vid. Think I'll try make your board rig.
Thanks for the comment. Although it is a little expensive I am using a Hakko FX-951, the tips (many types available) (and practically all the other parts) are replaceable. I have had it for several years, it is very light weight, temperature is digitally adjustable (I usually use 320C), and has no trouble putting out enough heat for large soldering jobs. Hakko also makes some less expensive options that might work out as well. I have been very happy with the FX-951 though, but it was a little pricey.
Where did you get the PCB shield itself? Is it possible to solder the wires and resistors directly to the battery adapter cord, or would you say to always create a pcb shield?
Thanks for the comment. The PCB can be commonly found on Amazon or local electronics shops (if living near one). For example just found this www.amazon.com/dp/B01J1KM3RM The other components, including resistors and connectors, can be ordered off Digikey (or Amazon). The resistors are an absolute requirement as they act as a pull up resistor for the data signal lines. Yes, the components can be soldered directly to the wires and the PCB can be omitted but I feel it is much cleaner and more reliable to do it with a PCB. This opens up the possibility of reusing this PCB on other projects down the line (if it is a close enough match). Also, I went the extra mile of purchasing the mating connectors for the connectors found in the donor charger, but these could be omitted and directly soldered as well (cutting off the existing connectors).
@@allans-workshop Thanks for the reply. All the programming set-up went smoothly for me. I have followed the schematic and done the cheaper, less parts-intensive option of just soldering directly to the wires, but I have been getting a 'failed connection' error when trying to connect to the battery. I think it might be the resistors I've used - what tolerance and wattage are the resistors you've used?
Hello, can you add photos how looks your connection? Its very unclear from your video... I am noob and dont know or wiring is bad or old battery. Thanks anyway for video.
Thanks for the comment. Sorry but I will try to make a blog post about it later and provide some more clear details. The author of OpenBatteryInformation has an image up on his project website. The right side of the image is the top of the battery. The left side of the image is the Arduino Uno. There are two pullup resistors required (also on the schematic). github.com/mnh-jansson/open-battery-information/blob/main/docs/images/arduino-obi.png
Thanks for the comment. This specific battery in the video is a BL1840, but I think the BL1860 may be similar (and uses same management board). Check out the Open Battery Information project for more details, but I think support is planned for as many types of batteries as possible. github.com/mnh-jansson/open-battery-information Specifically, look at the "issues" section as many people have posted information about different types of batteries. github.com/mnh-jansson/open-battery-information/issues
![Noob To Max With DRAGON REWORK In Blox Fruits [FULL MOVIE]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/LnBMOinoOvA/mqdefault.jpg)
Could you do a video that shows how to wire directly to the arduino? Using the hat makes it impossible to follow for amateurs, especially ones that can't understand schematics. Thanks.
Thanks for the comment. I was just thinking about this.
I will try to get something uploaded soon and will put a link here.
@allans-workshop Making this project as accessible as possible will make all the hard work worthwhile. Thank you! 👍
Here is a link to that easier to follow along video
ruclips.net/video/OeKCjAiLS9o/видео.html
Looks like a fancy soldering iron you have. I have a couple of gas soldering irons. Heat is adjustable on them but may be a bit crude. They keep burning through the removeable tips. Can you recommend your one?
Thanks for the vid. Think I'll try make your board rig.
Thanks for the comment.
Although it is a little expensive I am using a Hakko FX-951, the tips (many types available) (and practically all the other parts) are replaceable.
I have had it for several years, it is very light weight, temperature is digitally adjustable (I usually use 320C), and has no trouble putting out enough heat for large soldering jobs.
Hakko also makes some less expensive options that might work out as well.
I have been very happy with the FX-951 though, but it was a little pricey.
Where did you get the PCB shield itself?
Is it possible to solder the wires and resistors directly to the battery adapter cord, or would you say to always create a pcb shield?
Thanks for the comment.
The PCB can be commonly found on Amazon or local electronics shops (if living near one). For example just found this www.amazon.com/dp/B01J1KM3RM
The other components, including resistors and connectors, can be ordered off Digikey (or Amazon).
The resistors are an absolute requirement as they act as a pull up resistor for the data signal lines.
Yes, the components can be soldered directly to the wires and the PCB can be omitted but I feel it is much cleaner and more reliable to do it with a PCB. This opens up the possibility of reusing this PCB on other projects down the line (if it is a close enough match).
Also, I went the extra mile of purchasing the mating connectors for the connectors found in the donor charger, but these could be omitted and directly soldered as well (cutting off the existing connectors).
@@allans-workshop Thanks for the reply. All the programming set-up went smoothly for me.
I have followed the schematic and done the cheaper, less parts-intensive option of just soldering directly to the wires, but I have been getting a 'failed connection' error when trying to connect to the battery.
I think it might be the resistors I've used - what tolerance and wattage are the resistors you've used?
Hello, can you add photos how looks your connection? Its very unclear from your video... I am noob and dont know or wiring is bad or old battery. Thanks anyway for video.
Thanks for the comment.
Sorry but I will try to make a blog post about it later and provide some more clear details.
The author of OpenBatteryInformation has an image up on his project website. The right side of the image is the top of the battery. The left side of the image is the Arduino Uno.
There are two pullup resistors required (also on the schematic).
github.com/mnh-jansson/open-battery-information/blob/main/docs/images/arduino-obi.png
Hi mate.
Makita 18v bl1860 you can fix
Thanks for the comment.
This specific battery in the video is a BL1840, but I think the BL1860 may be similar (and uses same management board).
Check out the Open Battery Information project for more details, but I think support is planned for as many types of batteries as possible.
github.com/mnh-jansson/open-battery-information
Specifically, look at the "issues" section as many people have posted information about different types of batteries.
github.com/mnh-jansson/open-battery-information/issues