Hello guys, a few of you have asked for details about my inverter. Unfortunately it’s not a unit that I would recommend so I haven’t put any links to it. I will look to change this in the near future so if you have a recommendation please do let me know. Thanks for your support.
Hello mate was wondering when can you uploaded the complete wiring diagram from your van, 12v/240/hook up mains switch over & how this works in harmony thanks buddy rob
Hello Greg, quick question, with the touch sensitive lights how did you wire them, I noticed you done short feeds to each light? I’m guessing you done a come live and spliced into it ? Or did you do a complete wire to control board for each light. Thanks in advanced! Love the videos great help recommend many of you’re videos to a few people I know doing camper-van and they have found very helpful :)
Kyle Batley I ran one twin flex from the panel to the end of the van then spliced into it for each light and soldered a two core flex across to each light. We only ever use one or two lights at a time do the load is less than 1-2amps
That's a very comprehensive electrical system! I steered clear of 240v myself on the assumption that we can survive on 12v alone. I have one plug-in inverter for charging my laptop.
Amazing mate. Your attention to detail astounds me. Your videos are without a doubt the most comprehensive van build videos out there. This is built better than any coach built van I've seen.
Thank you. What an amazing array of perfection in wiring and installation, plus a slow and simple, but fully informative tuition. If you could just copy and paste all that work. Wow! You would have a real winner for so many others.
Hi David, have you had a lol at my off grid wiring video. It has lots of free wiring diagrams that could be perfect for you. 👍🏼😃 ruclips.net/video/rVkDPzrA-zw/видео.html
You are are a very good teacher for the build ,iv never watched a guy with such detail on installation which is a good thing ,you explain a lot of information which is a huge help for the ones building a van fit out ,old jimmy West Australia
@@GregVirgoe Hi greg, Did you have any issues with weight re sprinter? I am looking a buying Elwb and EHigh top but someone mentioned its still only 3.5 tonne and could easily make it overweight? Any thoughts. Kev
Thank you 🤙🏽 You’re a huge inspiration to me Greg. I’m sure it’s been said before but the way you’ve gone about transforming that base van into a small home is just amazing. I’ve learnt so much from you. I don’t own a van yet but thanks to your videos I will have a good understanding of what to do when I save the pennies for one. You’ll be pleased to know I’ve even passed some of your golden nuggets of advice on to friends who have also benefited. Huge thanks and best wishes Stevie.
Nice logical explanation. Nowadays logic and mental organization is in very short supply. Years ago, I was an electrician on the old diesel electric submarines, and so I get all the details you've provided, and all the monitoring requirements. Your land based diesel boat is very impressive, and clearly a lot more comfortable than what I'm familiar with. All the best.
Amazing and beautiful electrical work! I'm doing my conversion at the moment but there is no way it will be as perfect as yours. Maybe for my next van I'll be able to make it slightly closer to yours. Keep up the great work.
Hello Greg. You explain so clearly and despite covering much detail you make your quality videos interesting to watch. I'm discovering some woeful wiring in a van conversion I bought in an attempt to fault find an issue with a signal to the CBE distribution box. Advice please as to connections from said distribution to existing ccts. The CBE unit (and display) replaced the original but whoever did this did it using chock blocks to make the connections, loose in the space under a cover. Wondered about fixing blocks and crimping bootlace ferrules to all wires allowing separate terminal for each rather than how it was done with up to three cables in one. For the -ve returns maybe use insertion bridging pieces or make up with crimped wire links.
Using ferrules is a perfect way of reinforcin those strnaded cable ends so definately go with those and I would suggest getting some WAGO connectors with are really easy to use. I used them when I recently installed the reversing camera on my latest ducato build you can link a number of cables together with each having its own terminal. www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2380057.m570.l1311&_nkw=wago+connectors&_sacat=0&mkcid=1&mkrid=710-53481-19255-0&siteid=3&campid=5338027957&toolid=11800&mkevt=1
As always a very precise and professional job. Unfortunately I’m finding out that the second time around is a little easier. About 4 weeks ago my engine seized up as I was driving down the interstate. It’s a total loss, to expensive to replace. I’m now the proud owner of a Ford Transit and so far couldn’t be happier. Best of luck and safe travels,, Trey
Thanks Greg, I was interested in seeing your battery setup as I want to setup a 2nd battery in my Bus. Absolutely beautiful wiring, very professional.🤓👍
Hats off to you my brother. Iam a craftsman myself so i know exactly what it takes to produce the caliber of work that you do. Thanks for your content and attention to detail. I know quite a bit about these things and let me tell you i still learn so much from your videos. Thanks and keep making content like you have been. Much love from South Florida .
Hi Greg. Hope your RUclips channel is working out for you. If it helps generate a little income for you then that is great to hear. All your time spent producing great content and documenting and recording your conscientious workmanship, research and planning deserves to be well received. I am a multi-trades person and have dabbled in a few projects of interest myself. Sadly i didn't record any of it as you have done. I am inspired by your video series and i admire your painstaking efforts to produce such a brill series that captures all the positives and negatives of your project. I have watched almost each episode. Brilliant ! Well done mate !
Another great instructional video Greg! But, I have a sneaking suspicion that the "mislabeled" wire was a setup for demonstration purpose. Can't imagine you mislabeling anything!
Hi John, this was genuine, however for obvious reasons I cannot disclose who labelled them incorrectly while I was calling out what to write. 😂 You may of noticed a change in the handwriting 😊
Inspiring videos and have learned a lot from your videos, Greg. I have learned that when stringing batteries in parallel that the negative and positive leads are connected on opposite ends of the parallel batteries. That way the first in the parallel does not take the brunt of the workload. I have just one battery, so I wouldn't need to take this into consideration, but if in the future that I expand, I would need to do this to maximize the longevity of the batteries.
Greg, brilliant work, as usual. I have to say that the only thing I'd change is the 12VDC wiring. While I use 14 AWG and 12 AWG three conductor wiring for 110VAC loads up to 15A and 20A, respectively, I typically opt for 16/2 wiring for DC loads. My designs are 24VDC, with 12VDC comprising the vast majority of loads. A convection oven/microwave and induction cooktop are usually the only 110VAC loads that are designed in, with a couple of standard outlets included for convenience (blender, hair dryer, etc.). In addition to the cost savings over larger gauge wiring, the silicone insulation of the 16/2 wiring is just so much nicer with which to work. My designs go the extra step of including only standard power ports for DC outlets. Then accessories, which are always evolving, can be used to optimally power devices. For my own use, I even vary the voltage delivered to specific power ports to eliminate losses as DC is inverted to AC, then converted back to DC by wall warts to charge devices such as phones, tablet, laptops, etc. In those situations, a voltmeter is included at the outlet. Thanks so much for continuing to share the remaining videos in the van build series, as well as taking us along as you and Lou travel through Europe. I wish you both a very Happy Easter.
@@GregVirgoe well keep the good stuff coming and enjoy the rest of the trip. Taking my t5 over to France in the summer. Also considering getting something along the lines of a master lwb next year to convert but need to come up with travel and beds for 4 solution first.
I've been thinking about doing this for several years, and I think you just convinced me to go for it. Great videos Greg, and I'm sure I'll be hitting you up with some questions shortly.
Don Jones, thank you Don. I’m looking forward to getting back to my studio PC that has decent internet. Working out of community centres has been a challenge. 😊
Excellent informative video. Very professional. Thanks for the time taken to put these videos together. Very much appreciated. BTW, just purchased our low mileage sprinter minibus for conversion. You are giving so much inspiration and confidence to many people. Enjoy yourselves. Maggie and Mack, Huddersfield
I have the same DC DP isolator, & my 2 panels wired in series but I'm struggling to figure out how to wire up the isolator, I'd prefer to have both input & output at the bottom as you've done. (I'm no electrician lol) Do you cover how to wire this up? Great vids btw, it has been a great help in understanding the complete electrical layout 👍
Haven’t watched yet, will do as soon as I get home tonight. Soooo excited to see more build videos (although I love your travel ones too). Can’t wait 😬🚐👍🏻
Hi Greg. Yet another unbelievably fabulous 'how to' video. Your attention to detail is becoming legendary - and so it should. You'll be writing a book on how to do a campervan conversion soon. I'm sure it would become the 'go to' book. Regards Mark in the UK
I am loving this well done really helping me make a decision, and what a task, not the job itself putting it on film! As a sparks myself just watched you check continuity re circuit designation and the toilet you quoted as 12V was in artic then you said all blue cables were mains. Sorry to be an arse I' know the difference but others may not. Kev
The truth is, I brought a 50m drum of each cable, I ran out of the 2 core 1.5mm rubber flex cable and had lots of the 3 core 2.5mm artic blue flex, so used some of that for the power supply to the toilet. Its much bigger than the toilet needs so perfectly OK to use that, I know what it is :D
A video I've been waiting for - many thanks! I know I'm opening a can of worms - battery discussions are like insulation discussions... I'd be Interested to know your thoughts, you've installed AGM rather than LiFePO4 batteries - given the size of your batteries I'd have thought going for LiFePO4, albeit at a cost, would have been advantageous especially with weight and rate of charge? I also find it interesting you didn't go for a combined charger (such as votronic vbcs triple) - personally I've found that there are so many variations of choices it becomes really difficult making an informed decision! Thangs again for you efforts!
I was also considering votronic vbcs triple for a while, would simplify wiring etc. But two main reasons opted me away from it: 1. Fault tolerance, would have all 3 charging sourced trough 1 device. If the device fails while on a trip, I'd be left without any means of charging. With separate solar, mains and B2B the likelihood of all 3 breaking is small. 2. Cost; separate devices is for me a bit over half the price of the vbcs triple, I'm spending that money on more LifePo4 capacity. My current plan 2 x 160 w renogy panels + roof mount + MC4 adapter + Cables + Cable roof box Aprox 400Eur Winston battery pack 300AH 1700EUR Mains charger 122 EUR MPPT (epever 40A) 113 Eur MT50 Monitor 26 eur Cables, fuses, plugs, etc etc +/- 700Eur Sterling B2B 180 Eur
There's one more way to test continuity with multimeter that doesn't have continuity test - resistance test. Since I have a multimeter with resistance test but without continuity I use resistance. If resistance is infinite, the circuit is open, if there is some small resistance the circuit is closed.
Bonjour mes amis! vous êtes en France maintenant. Je croix.. I suspect that this was an earlier video as you guys must be loitering between Portugal and Spain? Clear as always Greg. Timely too, as we've finally started the upstairs electrics to the renovation. Plasterboard arriving next week. Happy Easter. R&T
I've binge-watched this whole series. Easily the best set of conversion videos on RUclips - really well told and explained, and what a result. Also - props to the unsung hero cameraman (or woman). Can I ask why you didn't go for a permanent high-sleeper bed with garage underneath? Greetings from Ireland!
Hello Greg… I am in the middle of my own Sprinter conversion and, frankly, couldn’t do it without your brilliant, precise, detailed videos- well done. I have left a “THANKYOU “ for you on PayPal… one question, where did you source the actual control box ? Thanks again Greg - brilliant work. Michael Barnicott-White
Hello Michael, the control box was handmade from components but in all honesty you really don’t need it and I probably wouldn’t do it this way again as it’s easier to just follow my off grid wiring video. If you want to do the changeover on mains I have a simpler diagram for how to do that I’ll post a link here.
Hello Sir! Love your video how you build your van. I'm starting to build my own. I use your video as my guide. I find it very useful. You explained it very well. Thank you very much.
Oh my God Greg, woowoo here. The other video was so simple. I don't know what all this is. I'm confused now. That other video was better can I just use that one and leave this alone. GREGGGG.....Be safe be bless.
Sorry, Greg - I love the attention to detail, but that combined 12V / 240V panel looks like a really bad idea, especially as you've used mains wiring for both. I thought that there were requirement for separation between 12V and 240V? When you say that the double socket is connected *directly* to the EHU, do you mean it doesn't go through the RCD or isolator on the distribution board? (Don't think that's a good idea if so...). How have you dealt with the mains earthing for the inverter? (Has it got an earth-neutral bond?). You're usually such a stickler for detail, but there are alarm bells ringing all over the place here., and it's arguably one of the most important things to get right. In other news: I hope you're enjoying your travels! :)
MisterG, there's nothing wrong with combining AC and DC in the same panel, or in using the same wiring for both. Greg has very smartly engineered-in sufficient separation. As for the double outlet connected directly to shore/mains power, there's no issue there, as well, as it's protected at the shore power connection during rare usage. Your mains earthing query regarding the inverter requires more information to definitively answer. However, from all I've seen from this and Greg's earlier video on the topic, I don't see any issues there, as well. Overall, Greg's is a top-notch design, superbly executed.
To both @HookMeUp and @John Coloe - Yes, I'm aware that you can have combined panels, however AFAIK there is supposed to be minimum 50mm between 230V AC and ELV (or an insulating divider). Look at 11:02 on the video - It might be the camera angle, but it appears that the 12V and 230V wiring is running together. Also, the design requires that the panel needs to be opened to change the 12V fuses. It doesn't strike me as sensible that one needs to open a potentially live mains panel to troubleshoot the 12V electrics - this is a campervan, remember where Joe public can have a dip - not an industrial environment. I still don't think it's a good idea. YMMV.
We have that Epever solar controller - the latest AN model with negative common - it has Lithium setting and both low and high temperature protection for our 100ah lifepo4
Hi Greg, thank goodness for all of your electrics videos, which I have watched 2-3 times now and it's all finally making sense! At least I can order the remaining components now, and will probably have to watch them all again when setting it all up, just to be safe! I noticed on this video and on your shopping list above that you have a kill switch (rotary marine battery isolator), but I don't think you mentioned it in this video (unless I blanked that part out), and I can't see it on your schematic either. Given your slightly revamped electrics, do you still recommend we have one, what circumstances might we need to use it, and where would it go please? And what size cable based on your set up above (as mine will be very similar to yours)? Thanks a lot, BR, Sharon
Hi Sharon, The latest electric wiring schematic used DC breakers that can be tripped manually to isolate the circuit, you may prefer to add a physical isolator upstream of this breaker. PM me if you need specific help :D
Hi Greg, super great videos. I am learning so much from you. Keep them coming. I have a question for you now that you are on the road traveling. I am at the stage of planning and designing my van build. I have to plan a van build for my wife and daughter and myself. My question is, do you really need a shower now that you have been on the road.
Hi Greg. Cheers for the videos I've found your build series very helpful in planning my own conversion. Nearly finished sorting out the body work so I can start the actual camper build, unfortunately there was a lot of hidden rust to deal with. I had been meaning to ask how you were going to work a split charger with the batteries being at the back. I assume you opted out of installing a split charger? Was this due to it being unfeasible with the length of cable run?
Hi Greg, sorry I think I've missed it, did you wire the earth to the chassis? quite controversial topic this 😁 Thanks for all the videos. You helped a lot with my build!
I have connected an earth from the 230v side to the van. Also earth the inverter case to the earth bar and bonded any copper pipes. If you run poss and neg cables for the leisure side you do not need to connect the 12v DC leisure side to the van. DC electrics does not have an earth. 👍🏼😃
@@GregVirgoe Thanks Greg! Most qualified people i have asked about this, they say it's useless to run a earth wire from the consumer unit to the chassis, and might even get you electrocuted if a lightning will strike the van while connected to the mains supply (230v) I am very curious to find out your detailed opinion, might even be a good subject on a video! Cheers!
Great setup the only thing you need to be careful of is the neutrals in the common busbar for the 230v circuits each neutral should be separate for each circuit as if you isolated one circuit the other could potentially be live in a fault situation, but you would probably just knock the whole thing off or just unplug the incoming socket I guess so not a huge deal. 👍
This is the same for every distribution board in the uk. The regulation do not require double pole isolation. If you need to work on any electrics fault it’s otherwise it should always be isolated fully. 😃
Your videos are an amazing source of info which is helping my son and I to convert his sprinter van. On the topic of the inverter, have you covered this in any of your videos as I cannot see it featured. Would you also be able to provide a link to the one you purchased as it would be really helpful.
Un grand bonjour des Cantons de l'Est du Québec ! I just finished binge watching all your van conversion videos, and I must say I am really impressed by the quality of your work and the videos themselves. Although I consider myself to be a fairly advanced handyman, I learned quite a few tricks that will be very helpful when I start my van conversion this summer on a Dodge Ram ProMaster (Fiat Ducato to you). I am a bit puzzled by something i saw in this video though. When I saw you connect your solar panels in series, I was wondering if they were rated at 4V so the added voltage would be 12V to charge your parallel battery setup, but I can find no mention of that. Obviously it would be pointless to charge 12V batteries with a 36V source since you would then be limited by the current capacity of the panels and wouldn't get the advantage (added total current, hence power) that a parallel setup would provide. Am I missing something? Once again, congratulations on your fantastic work !
Hi Greg I have been an avid watcher of your videos for a. Couple of years and have enjoyed them immensely. I have a Swift Kontiki 2013 which I really love,but I have a problem with 12v power. I changed my 2 x leisure batteries which had died,with yuasi 100ah lead acid ones. They were exactly the same size as the original ones but don’t seem to be as good in supplying power for as long as the old ones. I have had them tested and they are fine. I am thinking of changing them again to AGM 120 AH ones. Two questions I would like to ask you please,1) is it better to have AGM leisure batteries 2) is going from 2x 100ah to 2 x 120 ok with the Sargent EC460 electric control box. Sorry for the long question,just hope you can give me some guidance. Regards John
Hello John, normal lead acid batteries are not suitable for use with leisure systems. AGM batteries would be best, just bare in mind that an increase in battery size will take longer to recharge on the same 20A charger. It's no good having a huge battery bank if you can't recharge it the next day. Its far better with AGM to keep them topped up regularly then you will get the most number of cycles out of them. I can recommend Alpha Batteries, I've had mine for two years now and still performing like new. rover.ebay.com/rover/1/710-53481-19255-0/1?ff3=4&toolid=11800&pub=5575265109&campid=5338027957&mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fitm%2F12V-Platinum-100AH-AGM-Deep-Cycle-Leisure-Battery-NCC-Approved-Class-%2F122337328007%3Fhash%3Ditem1c7bdf7b87
Hi Greg. Thanks for the series; it's been so helpful with my conversion. I have two 200w panels. What size isolator switch would be needed for this and how is this calculated? Thanks again!
Hi greg trying to fit two maso 12v reading lights just got them threw and so confused both wires on the light are red.?? How do you know which is which please help...
Hello Greg, Absolutely fantastic content that you have created here but because of you, my build is costing more and more as i watch with intent. Just one quick question, you mentioned at the start of this video that there would be a second part related to wire sizing etc, has it been published? Maybe i am just being blind. Anyway, all the best buddy.
Hi greg, hope all is well? Thanks for another great video, looking at your diagram i noticed there isnt the battery isolator/shut off that is in the video? is this essential and if so where should i put it as iam just doing my solar install
Hi Greg - you seem to have 2 feeds coming in from your hook up (not the inverter side), is there a reason for that? Also why have you used the transformer to bring the shower extractor fan down from 240 to 12 volt when you already have 12 volt available? Cheers.
Another great vid GV - thanks for sharing. Have you found those T nuts have held secure over the test of time and the vibrations of the van? Just wondering if u’d have to overtighten them and might split the plastic casing of the electric boxes in order to keep them secure. Such a neat job though 👏🏼
Extremely tidy greg. So, do you just wire your inverter into all of the rest of your 240v system and is it going through your breaker box? I am just about to wire up my 240 and didn't even consider doing this with my inverter was going to have a stand alone system for it. Brilliant :-)
Hi Greg, I’ve just started watching your videos as I’ve just started converting a Mercedes trekka which is based-on a sprinter. I love the box you have used with all the electrics inside and the diverter switch on the outside of this. Is this something you’ve bought or something you made? It looks so neat and tidy! Absolutely great videos btw.
Awesome video in a great series! It has been very enjoyable as well as informative watching this build take shape - you're a true craftsman and natural teacher Greg. Regarding earthing for the electrics, should the metal structure of the van be connected to the 240V earth as well? My instinct is that it should be in order to keep all the exposed metal at the same potential in case of a fault. I'm no sparky though.
Hi Gareth. First and foremost, if you're unsure about electrics it is always better to get a qualified electrician to do the work. Better safe than sorry. But to answer your question, yes, the van chassis should also be connected to your earth bar on the consumer unit (6mm cable) Should a line cable (earth or neutral) come into contact with bare metal it could pose a danger to anyone coming into contact with the van whilst standing on the ground (certainly barefooted on wet grass for instance, maybe less so if their wearing shoes) If the chassis is connected to the earth bar it will cause the unit to trip (hopefully you’re using a 30Ma RCD or twin pole MCB
Hi Greg. Firstly thank you for all the videos. You have been the inspiration and teacher for my van build. I have watched your videos several times but couldn't figure out if you have grounded your leisure batteries to the chassis of the van or connected your negative terminal from the leisure batteries to the negative on the starter battery?! I am fitting a BtoB charger and because my leisure batteries are AGM and the starter battery is flooded and also of a different capacity i am a bit reluctant to connect the negatives together? rookie question probably but if you could shed some light on this i'd appreciate it. Thank you :)
I don’t have a B2B and my leisure system is completely separated from my van electrics so they are not connected. Most B2B have a positive and negative from the charger to both battery systems. The charger being the link between the two. Best to refer to the instructions for which ever one you buy as they are slightly different. My leisure system 12v DC is not connected to the van. 👍🏼
Hello guys, a few of you have asked for details about my inverter. Unfortunately it’s not a unit that I would recommend so I haven’t put any links to it.
I will look to change this in the near future so if you have a recommendation please do let me know. Thanks for your support.
Hello mate was wondering when can you uploaded the complete wiring diagram from your van, 12v/240/hook up mains switch over & how this works in harmony thanks buddy rob
Greg Virgoe did you ever find an inverter you’d recommend?
Eddie Johnston victron equipment does appear to be the top of the market.
Hello Greg, quick question, with the touch sensitive lights how did you wire them, I noticed you done short feeds to each light? I’m guessing you done a come live and spliced into it ? Or did you do a complete wire to control board for each light. Thanks in advanced! Love the videos great help recommend many of you’re videos to a few people I know doing camper-van and they have found very helpful :)
Kyle Batley I ran one twin flex from the panel to the end of the van then spliced into it for each light and soldered a two core flex across to each light.
We only ever use one or two lights at a time do the load is less than 1-2amps
That's a very comprehensive electrical system! I steered clear of 240v myself on the assumption that we can survive on 12v alone. I have one plug-in inverter for charging my laptop.
The only 230v item I need is also my laptop. Where can I find that inverter? Thank you
@@Ally123234 I bought it on eBay. I forget how much I paid but Halfords still have it for £40 "Ring MP120 Compact Inverter"
Amazing mate. Your attention to detail astounds me. Your videos are without a doubt the most comprehensive van build videos out there.
This is built better than any coach built van I've seen.
That crimping tool was to die for. Fantastic attention to detail. You are wiring a mini home here. Beautiful job mate!
Thank you. What an amazing array of perfection in wiring and installation, plus a slow and simple, but fully informative tuition.
If you could just copy and paste all that work. Wow! You would have a real winner for so many others.
Hi David, have you had a lol at my off grid wiring video. It has lots of free wiring diagrams that could be perfect for you. 👍🏼😃
ruclips.net/video/rVkDPzrA-zw/видео.html
You are are a very good teacher for the build ,iv never watched a guy with such detail on installation which is a good thing ,you explain a lot of information which is a huge help for the ones building a van fit out ,old jimmy West Australia
Looking of buying a sprinter in the next month or so, haven’t go no experience but I’m learning so much from these videos! Much appreciated mate!
Your work in that adaptable box is stunning!!!!
Kevin Holder much appreciated
@@GregVirgoe Hi greg, Did you have any issues with weight re sprinter? I am looking a buying Elwb and EHigh top but someone mentioned its still only 3.5 tonne and could easily make it overweight? Any thoughts. Kev
Thank you 🤙🏽
You’re a huge inspiration to me Greg. I’m sure it’s been said before but the way you’ve gone about transforming that base van into a small home is just amazing. I’ve learnt so much from you. I don’t own a van yet but thanks to your videos I will have a good understanding of what to do when I save the pennies for one.
You’ll be pleased to know I’ve even passed some of your golden nuggets of advice on to friends who have also benefited.
Huge thanks and best wishes
Stevie.
Nice logical explanation. Nowadays logic and mental organization is in very short supply. Years ago, I was an electrician on the old diesel electric submarines, and so I get all the details you've provided, and all the monitoring requirements. Your land based diesel boat is very impressive, and clearly a lot more comfortable than what I'm familiar with. All the best.
Your planning skills are in-frikkin-credible.
Amazing and beautiful electrical work! I'm doing my conversion at the moment but there is no way it will be as perfect as yours. Maybe for my next van I'll be able to make it slightly closer to yours. Keep up the great work.
Hello Greg. You explain so clearly and despite covering much detail you make your quality videos interesting to watch. I'm discovering some woeful wiring in a van conversion I bought in an attempt to fault find an issue with a signal to the CBE distribution box. Advice please as to connections from said distribution to existing ccts. The CBE unit (and display) replaced the original but whoever did this did it using chock blocks to make the connections, loose in the space under a cover. Wondered about fixing blocks and crimping bootlace ferrules to all wires allowing separate terminal for each rather than how it was done with up to three cables in one. For the -ve returns maybe use insertion bridging pieces or make up with crimped wire links.
Using ferrules is a perfect way of reinforcin those strnaded cable ends so definately go with those and I would suggest getting some WAGO connectors with are really easy to use. I used them when I recently installed the reversing camera on my latest ducato build you can link a number of cables together with each having its own terminal. www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2380057.m570.l1311&_nkw=wago+connectors&_sacat=0&mkcid=1&mkrid=710-53481-19255-0&siteid=3&campid=5338027957&toolid=11800&mkevt=1
As always a very precise and professional job.
Unfortunately I’m finding out that the second time around is a little easier. About 4 weeks ago my engine seized up as I was driving down the interstate. It’s a total loss, to expensive to replace. I’m now the proud owner of a Ford Transit and so far couldn’t be happier.
Best of luck and safe travels,,
Trey
Thanks Greg, I was interested in seeing your battery setup as I want to setup a 2nd battery in my Bus. Absolutely beautiful wiring, very professional.🤓👍
Karl Bartelt, thank you mate, the next one will have more technical details on how it is all wired up. 👍🏼
🇮🇪I haven't a clue about electrics but I do know when a man takes pride in his work "well done" 👍
Hats off to you my brother. Iam a craftsman myself so i know exactly what it takes to produce the caliber of work that you do.
Thanks for your content and attention to detail. I know quite a bit about these things and let me tell you i still learn so much from your videos. Thanks and keep making content like you have been. Much love from South Florida .
Top Job again Greg 👍
See you sooooooooooon
Have a great trip back 👍😀🐾🍺🍟
Hi Greg.
Hope your RUclips channel is working out for you. If it helps generate a little income for you then that is great to hear. All your time spent producing great content and documenting and recording your conscientious workmanship, research and planning deserves to be well received. I am a multi-trades person and have dabbled in a few projects of interest myself. Sadly i didn't record any of it as you have done.
I am inspired by your video series and i admire your painstaking efforts to produce such a brill series that captures all the positives and negatives of your project.
I have watched almost each episode. Brilliant ! Well done mate !
Another great instructional video Greg! But, I have a sneaking suspicion that the "mislabeled" wire was a setup for demonstration purpose. Can't imagine you mislabeling anything!
Hi John, this was genuine, however for obvious reasons I cannot disclose who labelled them incorrectly while I was calling out what to write. 😂 You may of noticed a change in the handwriting 😊
I agree he’s so smart !!
Inspiring videos and have learned a lot from your videos, Greg. I have learned that when stringing batteries in parallel that the negative and positive leads are connected on opposite ends of the parallel batteries. That way the first in the parallel does not take the brunt of the workload. I have just one battery, so I wouldn't need to take this into consideration, but if in the future that I expand, I would need to do this to maximize the longevity of the batteries.
Greg, brilliant work, as usual. I have to say that the only thing I'd change is the 12VDC wiring. While I use 14 AWG and 12 AWG three conductor wiring for 110VAC loads up to 15A and 20A, respectively, I typically opt for 16/2 wiring for DC loads.
My designs are 24VDC, with 12VDC comprising the vast majority of loads. A convection oven/microwave and induction cooktop are usually the only 110VAC loads that are designed in, with a couple of standard outlets included for convenience (blender, hair dryer, etc.). In addition to the cost savings over larger gauge wiring, the silicone insulation of the 16/2 wiring is just so much nicer with which to work.
My designs go the extra step of including only standard power ports for DC outlets. Then accessories, which are always evolving, can be used to optimally power devices. For my own use, I even vary the voltage delivered to specific power ports to eliminate losses as DC is inverted to AC, then converted back to DC by wall warts to charge devices such as phones, tablet, laptops, etc. In those situations, a voltmeter is included at the outlet.
Thanks so much for continuing to share the remaining videos in the van build series, as well as taking us along as you and Lou travel through Europe. I wish you both a very Happy Easter.
Hi John, I have used 1.5mm for the lighting 14G 2core rubber flex for the 12vDC so it just gives a little more margin on load. 😊
Great job! You need to be offering this as a service! Best I've seen. Keep them videos coming
lurcho101, it may be an option I’m not sure what’s going to happen after our travels 😊
@@GregVirgoe well keep the good stuff coming and enjoy the rest of the trip. Taking my t5 over to France in the summer. Also considering getting something along the lines of a master lwb next year to convert but need to come up with travel and beds for 4 solution first.
Nice Crimping tool there....Most impressive.
Not often I get a compliment on my impressive tool so thank you 😊
You're quite a Craftsman very clean work that's coming from a general contractor certified electrician and USA
While I've been loving the travel video, I was getting van diy withdrawal symptoms - this should sort them out fora few weeks.
Enjoy your travels 👍
👍 Danke fürs Hochladen!
👍 Thanks for uploading!
👍 Very good and beautiful, thank you!
👍 Sehr gut und schön, danke!
I've been thinking about doing this for several years, and I think you just convinced me to go for it. Great videos Greg, and I'm sure I'll be hitting you up with some questions shortly.
Great video Greg! Looking forward to seeing part 2. Enjoy your travels! Thanks!
Don Jones, thank you Don. I’m looking forward to getting back to my studio PC that has decent internet. Working out of community centres has been a challenge. 😊
Your attention to detail is phenomenal!
Excellent informative video. Very professional. Thanks for the time taken to put these videos together. Very much appreciated. BTW, just purchased our low mileage sprinter minibus for conversion. You are giving so much inspiration and confidence to many people. Enjoy yourselves. Maggie and Mack, Huddersfield
I have the same DC DP isolator, & my 2 panels wired in series but I'm struggling to figure out how to wire up the isolator, I'd prefer to have both input & output at the bottom as you've done. (I'm no electrician lol) Do you cover how to wire this up?
Great vids btw, it has been a great help in understanding the complete electrical layout 👍
Hi Greg that’s a cracking brilliant job mate puts me to shame 😂😂🤓🤙
Haven’t watched yet, will do as soon as I get home tonight. Soooo excited to see more build videos (although I love your travel ones too). Can’t wait 😬🚐👍🏻
Michael L thank you, I have plans for a few build related videos. A few technical ones
Greg Virgoe Ace, do love your techy stuff, that’s made me a happy boy 😛🚐
Best build out I have seen🤙🏼
Thank you 😊
This is easily the best van electrical video I've seen. Fantastic thank you thanks Greg massive help as always. 👍
Hi Greg. Yet another unbelievably fabulous 'how to' video. Your attention to detail is becoming legendary - and so it should. You'll be writing a book on how to do a campervan conversion soon. I'm sure it would become the 'go to' book.
Regards Mark in the UK
BRAVO! Clear, concise and practical. Love your videos. Plan to study this one several times to really grasp the content. THANKS
Whenever I think I’ve seen all your build videos up pops another one! What a fantastic series. Really enjoyable and educational. Cheers!
Top job Greg. Way more than a diy setup.
A very neat & tidy wiring. One of the neatist that l have seen.
Kat cankan, thank you that’s really nice of you 😊
@@GregVirgoe You're welcome 😊
Brilliant Greg!! Been really looking forward to this section of videos! And you haven't disappointed mate awesome instruction as always! Top job! 👍🏻
I am loving this well done really helping me make a decision, and what a task, not the job itself putting it on film! As a sparks myself just watched you check continuity re circuit designation and the toilet you quoted as 12V was in artic then you said all blue cables were mains. Sorry to be an arse I' know the difference but others may not. Kev
The truth is, I brought a 50m drum of each cable, I ran out of the 2 core 1.5mm rubber flex cable and had lots of the 3 core 2.5mm artic blue flex, so used some of that for the power supply to the toilet. Its much bigger than the toilet needs so perfectly OK to use that, I know what it is :D
Hello Greg ! Greetings from Slovakia. Great video as always ! 👍
Realy clean install Greg, Been waiting for this video. Big thumbs up and enjoy your jurney both.
Nice job as always Greg. Hope the European tour is going well. Cheers
A video I've been waiting for - many thanks!
I know I'm opening a can of worms - battery discussions are like insulation discussions...
I'd be Interested to know your thoughts, you've installed AGM rather than LiFePO4 batteries - given the size of your batteries I'd have thought going for LiFePO4, albeit at a cost, would have been advantageous especially with weight and rate of charge?
I also find it interesting you didn't go for a combined charger (such as votronic vbcs triple) - personally I've found that there are so many variations of choices it becomes really difficult making an informed decision!
Thangs again for you efforts!
I was also considering votronic vbcs triple for a while, would simplify wiring etc. But two main reasons opted me away from it:
1. Fault tolerance, would have all 3 charging sourced trough 1 device. If the device fails while on a trip, I'd be left without any means of charging. With separate solar, mains and B2B the likelihood of all 3 breaking is small.
2. Cost; separate devices is for me a bit over half the price of the vbcs triple, I'm spending that money on more LifePo4 capacity.
My current plan
2 x 160 w renogy panels + roof mount + MC4 adapter + Cables + Cable roof box Aprox 400Eur
Winston battery pack 300AH 1700EUR
Mains charger 122 EUR
MPPT (epever 40A) 113 Eur
MT50 Monitor 26 eur
Cables, fuses, plugs, etc etc +/- 700Eur
Sterling B2B 180 Eur
Man, you do better and cleaner job that some electricians do.
There's one more way to test continuity with multimeter that doesn't have continuity test - resistance test. Since I have a multimeter with resistance test but without continuity I use resistance. If resistance is infinite, the circuit is open, if there is some small resistance the circuit is closed.
mikosoft my multimeter has continuity check as well 😃
A tour would be fantastic
Bonjour mes amis! vous êtes en France maintenant. Je croix..
I suspect that this was an earlier video as you guys must be loitering between Portugal and Spain?
Clear as always Greg. Timely too, as we've finally started the upstairs electrics to the renovation. Plasterboard arriving next week. Happy Easter. R&T
I've binge-watched this whole series. Easily the best set of conversion videos on RUclips - really well told and explained, and what a result. Also - props to the unsung hero cameraman (or woman). Can I ask why you didn't go for a permanent high-sleeper bed with garage underneath? Greetings from Ireland!
Another great video bud!! Looking forward to the 2nd part.
Top notch as always
Cracking workmanship and a really well explained video. Top top work
You are the man Greg, loving all your vids and the tour, looking forward to meeting up at camp Quirky!!
Hi Greg absolutely 1st class
WOW Awesome work and a great video. Thanks
Thank you very much 😀
Hi Greg, vielen dank fuer deine Groessartigkeit, gruesse aus Laos
Very insightful video. 👍🏻
Thank you 🙏🏼
Hey Greg well put together video and everything explained to perfection
Fantastic stuff again Greg!
Hello Greg… I am in the middle of my own Sprinter conversion and, frankly, couldn’t do it without your brilliant, precise, detailed videos- well done. I have left a “THANKYOU “ for you on PayPal… one question, where did you source the actual control box ? Thanks again Greg - brilliant work. Michael Barnicott-White
Hello Michael, the control box was handmade from components but in all honesty you really don’t need it and I probably wouldn’t do it this way again as it’s easier to just follow my off grid wiring video.
If you want to do the changeover on mains I have a simpler diagram for how to do that I’ll post a link here.
www.dropbox.com/s/rkp2wcwwcomwzvt/Changeover%20Switch%20Diagram.png?dl=0
Hello Sir! Love your video how you build your van. I'm starting to build my own. I use your video as my guide. I find it very useful. You explained it very well. Thank you very much.
Awesome, thank you! Best wishes with your build
Very good job and very helpful
Hi Greg, Bonjour de la France.
You have got a new sub.
Thank you for sharing
Oh my God Greg, woowoo here. The other video was so simple. I don't know what all this is. I'm confused now. That other video was better can I just use that one and leave this alone. GREGGGG.....Be safe be bless.
The latest video with schematic was made to be a better solution and easier install 😎👍🏼
Thank you!!! SO GREAT
Looks great Greg. Nice work.
Lovely setup Greg 👍🏻
Sorry, Greg - I love the attention to detail, but that combined 12V / 240V panel looks like a really bad idea, especially as you've used mains wiring for both. I thought that there were requirement for separation between 12V and 240V? When you say that the double socket is connected *directly* to the EHU, do you mean it doesn't go through the RCD or isolator on the distribution board? (Don't think that's a good idea if so...). How have you dealt with the mains earthing for the inverter? (Has it got an earth-neutral bond?). You're usually such a stickler for detail, but there are alarm bells ringing all over the place here., and it's arguably one of the most important things to get right. In other news: I hope you're enjoying your travels! :)
MisterG, there's nothing wrong with combining AC and DC in the same panel, or in using the same wiring for both. Greg has very smartly engineered-in sufficient separation. As for the double outlet connected directly to shore/mains power, there's no issue there, as well, as it's protected at the shore power connection during rare usage.
Your mains earthing query regarding the inverter requires more information to definitively answer. However, from all I've seen from this and Greg's earlier video on the topic, I don't see any issues there, as well. Overall, Greg's is a top-notch design, superbly executed.
To both @HookMeUp and @John Coloe - Yes, I'm aware that you can have combined panels, however AFAIK there is supposed to be minimum 50mm between 230V AC and ELV (or an insulating divider). Look at 11:02 on the video - It might be the camera angle, but it appears that the 12V and 230V wiring is running together. Also, the design requires that the panel needs to be opened to change the 12V fuses. It doesn't strike me as sensible that one needs to open a potentially live mains panel to troubleshoot the 12V electrics - this is a campervan, remember where Joe public can have a dip - not an industrial environment. I still don't think it's a good idea. YMMV.
We have that Epever solar controller - the latest AN model with negative common - it has Lithium setting and both low and high temperature protection for our 100ah lifepo4
Hi Greg, thank goodness for all of your electrics videos, which I have watched 2-3 times now and it's all finally making sense! At least I can order the remaining components now, and will probably have to watch them all again when setting it all up, just to be safe! I noticed on this video and on your shopping list above that you have a kill switch (rotary marine battery isolator), but I don't think you mentioned it in this video (unless I blanked that part out), and I can't see it on your schematic either. Given your slightly revamped electrics, do you still recommend we have one, what circumstances might we need to use it, and where would it go please? And what size cable based on your set up above (as mine will be very similar to yours)? Thanks a lot, BR, Sharon
Hi Sharon, The latest electric wiring schematic used DC breakers that can be tripped manually to isolate the circuit, you may prefer to add a physical isolator upstream of this breaker. PM me if you need specific help :D
Hi Greg, super great videos. I am learning so much from you. Keep them coming. I have a question for you now that you are on the road traveling. I am at the stage of planning and designing my van build. I have to plan a van build for my wife and daughter and myself. My question is, do you really need a shower now that you have been on the road.
Hi Greg. Cheers for the videos I've found your build series very helpful in planning my own conversion. Nearly finished sorting out the body work so I can start the actual camper build, unfortunately there was a lot of hidden rust to deal with. I had been meaning to ask how you were going to work a split charger with the batteries being at the back. I assume you opted out of installing a split charger? Was this due to it being unfeasible with the length of cable run?
Nice one Greg, full of excellent information 👍🏼😊
Hi Greg, sorry I think I've missed it, did you wire the earth to the chassis? quite controversial topic this 😁
Thanks for all the videos. You helped a lot with my build!
I have connected an earth from the 230v side to the van. Also earth the inverter case to the earth bar and bonded any copper pipes.
If you run poss and neg cables for the leisure side you do not need to connect the 12v DC leisure side to the van. DC electrics does not have an earth. 👍🏼😃
@@GregVirgoe Thanks Greg! Most qualified people i have asked about this, they say it's useless to run a earth wire from the consumer unit to the chassis, and might even get you electrocuted if a lightning will strike the van while connected to the mains supply (230v)
I am very curious to find out your detailed opinion, might even be a good subject on a video!
Cheers!
Great setup the only thing you need to be careful of is the neutrals in the common busbar for the 230v circuits each neutral should be separate for each circuit as if you isolated one circuit the other could potentially be live in a fault situation, but you would probably just knock the whole thing off or just unplug the incoming socket I guess so not a huge deal. 👍
This is the same for every distribution board in the uk.
The regulation do not require double pole isolation. If you need to work on any electrics fault it’s otherwise it should always be isolated fully. 😃
Your videos are an amazing source of info which is helping my son and I to convert his sprinter van. On the topic of the inverter, have you covered this in any of your videos as I cannot see it featured. Would you also be able to provide a link to the one you purchased as it would be really helpful.
Un grand bonjour des Cantons de l'Est du Québec !
I just finished binge watching all your van conversion videos, and I must say I am really impressed by the quality of your work and the videos themselves. Although I consider myself to be a fairly advanced handyman, I learned quite a few tricks that will be very helpful when I start my van conversion this summer on a Dodge Ram ProMaster (Fiat Ducato to you).
I am a bit puzzled by something i saw in this video though. When I saw you connect your solar panels in series, I was wondering if they were rated at 4V so the added voltage would be 12V to charge your parallel battery setup, but I can find no mention of that. Obviously it would be pointless to charge 12V batteries with a 36V source since you would then be limited by the current capacity of the panels and wouldn't get the advantage (added total current, hence power) that a parallel setup would provide. Am I missing something?
Once again, congratulations on your fantastic work !
Waauuuw what a great work its amazing.Greatings from Spain.
Greg , pop round at the weekend i have a few jobs for you 😂
Great Informative Video ⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️
Thank you Jono 🤩
Brilliant vid mate. God bless
Thank you 🙏🏼
Excellent info thank you
Glad you liked it. 👍🏼😃
Excellent work as usual! It would be great to know how your power usage calculations played out. How accurate did they turn out to be?
Also interested in this
Hi Greg I have been an avid watcher of your videos for a. Couple of years and have enjoyed them immensely. I have a Swift Kontiki 2013 which I really love,but I have a problem with 12v power. I changed my 2 x leisure batteries which had died,with yuasi 100ah lead acid ones. They were exactly the same size as the original ones but don’t seem to be as good in supplying power for as long as the old ones. I have had them tested and they are fine. I am thinking of changing them again to AGM 120 AH ones. Two questions I would like to ask you please,1) is it better to have AGM leisure batteries 2) is going from 2x 100ah to 2 x 120 ok with the Sargent EC460 electric control box.
Sorry for the long question,just hope you can give me some guidance.
Regards
John
Hello John, normal lead acid batteries are not suitable for use with leisure systems.
AGM batteries would be best, just bare in mind that an increase in battery size will take longer to recharge on the same 20A charger. It's no good having a huge battery bank if you can't recharge it the next day. Its far better with AGM to keep them topped up regularly then you will get the most number of cycles out of them. I can recommend Alpha Batteries, I've had mine for two years now and still performing like new. rover.ebay.com/rover/1/710-53481-19255-0/1?ff3=4&toolid=11800&pub=5575265109&campid=5338027957&mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fitm%2F12V-Platinum-100AH-AGM-Deep-Cycle-Leisure-Battery-NCC-Approved-Class-%2F122337328007%3Fhash%3Ditem1c7bdf7b87
Greg Virgoe
Thank you Greg,great information and help!
Hi Greg. Thanks for the series; it's been so helpful with my conversion. I have two 200w panels. What size isolator switch would be needed for this and how is this calculated? Thanks again!
Hi greg trying to fit two maso 12v reading lights just got them threw and so confused both wires on the light are red.?? How do you know which is which please help...
Hello Greg, Absolutely fantastic content that you have created here but because of you, my build is costing more and more as i watch with intent. Just one quick question, you mentioned at the start of this video that there would be a second part related to wire sizing etc, has it been published? Maybe i am just being blind. Anyway, all the best buddy.
Hi Nicky, I am working on it now and will most like be released in a couple of weeks.
As we are away in Northampton for a few days.
Hi greg, hope all is well? Thanks for another great video, looking at your diagram i noticed there isnt the battery isolator/shut off that is in the video? is this essential and if so where should i put it as iam just doing my solar install
The wiring diagram is just for the internal wiring of the panel. The battery isolator is on the main 12v red positive cable feeding the panel.
Hi Greg - you seem to have 2 feeds coming in from your hook up (not the inverter side), is there a reason for that? Also why have you used the transformer to bring the shower extractor fan down from 240 to 12 volt when you already have 12 volt available? Cheers.
Another great vid GV - thanks for sharing. Have you found those T nuts have held secure over the test of time and the vibrations of the van? Just wondering if u’d have to overtighten them and might split the plastic casing of the electric boxes in order to keep them secure. Such a neat job though 👏🏼
I put some large penny washers on the inside and the panel has been absolutely fine no problem
Extremely tidy greg. So, do you just wire your inverter into all of the rest of your 240v system and is it going through your breaker box? I am just about to wire up my 240 and didn't even consider doing this with my inverter was going to have a stand alone system for it. Brilliant :-)
Top rank, like all your videos mate.
Thank you Liam
Parabéns, sua organização é de primeira.
Hi Greg, I’ve just started watching your videos as I’ve just started converting a Mercedes trekka which is based-on a sprinter. I love the box you have used with all the electrics inside and the diverter switch on the outside of this. Is this something you’ve bought or something you made? It looks so neat and tidy! Absolutely great videos btw.
Hi Greg, could you kindly provide info about inverter pls, looking for good 1500W but some review scares me. Thanks
Tom J Designs sadly I would not recommend my inverter.
It says it’s pure sine but my tech is not happy running off of it. Looking to change it 🥴
Awesome video in a great series! It has been very enjoyable as well as informative watching this build take shape - you're a true craftsman and natural teacher Greg.
Regarding earthing for the electrics, should the metal structure of the van be connected to the 240V earth as well? My instinct is that it should be in order to keep all the exposed metal at the same potential in case of a fault. I'm no sparky though.
Hi Gareth. First and foremost, if you're unsure about electrics it is always better to get a qualified electrician to do the work. Better safe than sorry. But to answer your question, yes, the van chassis should also be connected to your earth bar on the consumer unit (6mm cable) Should a line cable (earth or neutral) come into contact with bare metal it could pose a danger to anyone coming into contact with the van whilst standing on the ground (certainly barefooted on wet grass for instance, maybe less so if their wearing shoes) If the chassis is connected to the earth bar it will cause the unit to trip (hopefully you’re using a 30Ma RCD or twin pole MCB
Hi Greg. Firstly thank you for all the videos. You have been the inspiration and teacher for my van build. I have watched your videos several times but couldn't figure out if you have grounded your leisure batteries to the chassis of the van or connected your negative terminal from the leisure batteries to the negative on the starter battery?! I am fitting a BtoB charger and because my leisure batteries are AGM and the starter battery is flooded and also of a different capacity i am a bit reluctant to connect the negatives together? rookie question probably but if you could shed some light on this i'd appreciate it. Thank you :)
I don’t have a B2B and my leisure system is completely separated from my van electrics so they are not connected.
Most B2B have a positive and negative from the charger to both battery systems. The charger being the link between the two.
Best to refer to the instructions for which ever one you buy as they are slightly different.
My leisure system 12v DC is not connected to the van. 👍🏼