Forging A Knife Billet From 1,000 Ball Bearings! | Canister Damascus, Pattern Welded Knifemaking
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- Опубликовано: 13 окт 2024
- Can I forge a knife from 1,000 ball bearings?
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#ballbearing #canisterdamascus #blacksmithing #knifemaking
@2:54 Breakfast of champions right there
So I love this video because it showed how to trouble shoot and work around issues. Also gave that nice warning about venting your can lol
“Now I want a certain length. That length is as long as I can make it.”
Liked and subscribed
I can't believe nobody has made a commercial product specifically for preventing welding when using a can.
A lot of the other people use white paint, white spray paint
And not one ball bearing was harmed in the making of this knife...!!!🤣🤣
Way to go Eli!!💪🏼🔥🔥👍🏻🤣
Loves to hear himself talk!
Judging by the dust and you're still wearing long sleeves in March, I'm guessing you're out in West Texas. Greetings from the other side of the state!
Learned a lot today. Thanks Boss..
Glad to hear it!
I love these kind of vids. SOrt of like a trend now.
So what happened to part 2? Curious to see what happened.
Looks like it should make an interesting blade. You should invest in some stainless tube for your canisters. That's what I use and you never have to worry about it sticking. You can buy a 2' piece for $20 and your canister contents will just slide out. Best money spent.
Great tip. Thanks for sharing.
I second that process. But if you get to hot the stainless will stick. I usually lightly oxidize mine first. Then there’s no way it will ever stick.
@@erikcourtney1834 Yeah, the tube I have has a little bit of dirt and grime in it so it works well. I've literally had a billet just slide out of it when I knocked the end off. 😉
@Tyrell Knifeworks gotta love it when they do that. Makes work all that much faster and enjoyable.
I so enjoy watching you experiment with these techniques and different types of forging!
I’ve got some rusty 2” tubing I’ve been using for canisters. Previously I soaked it in vinegar to clean the rust off. But have always wondered if it would benefit leaving it on. I may try it now. Although using oxidized stainless steel tubing is yet my favorite process.
I was just picturing someone forge welding big bbs together one at a time... I don't know why but I'm still laughing.
That's gunna be a sick dagger. Can't wait to see exactly how it comes out
Thanks man
excellent. keep on trukin!
Are you going to show part 2 of this video? That pattern looked sick. Would love to see how the dagger turned out.
Yes, eventually. Thanks for watching!
@@FireCreekForge You bet. And keep up the excellent work and tutorials.
You know they do make these really cool things called funnels they are made out of plastic and work very well.
crazy
LOL...Should have checked the posts before I said the same thing.
Saws-all as a settling device is genius.
I can't remember where I first saw it but I remember it being a few years ago and thinking the same thing
I still have so much to learn. I've seen many videos even every season of forged in fire and I've never heard of a vent hole. I've heard the opposite that you need a seald shut container
Secrets to Non-Sticking Cannisters to weld material that ive seen. "Shurap"=Master Blacksmith fills the cannister with what ever metal powder steel and ect. when Closing He grinds "Pepper" & Cuts a Red Chilli Pepper on top then welds the top closed and Drills a Small hole in the End.. it NEVER Sticks ever! seems Silly But Man it Works..I Hope this Helps you!! i love to watch all Blacksmiths! Have a Great Day!!
Not sure if anyone has mentioned it, not gonna read through 262 comments, but cracking and inclusions on the edge are probably from your burners in your forge. You could clearly see they were not evenly heating the can, imagine what it's doing to your billets.
Actually it's from the tension forces on the billet lengthwise during forging...
I was wondering what was up with like the handsaw/hacksaw thing with no blade, then I realized he's just using it like a tiny jackhammer with no blade to settle the bearings. Smart working my man.
Great save. Awesome pattern can't wait for the next video.
Don't know if it would work for forge welding. Sometimes if I don't want weld splatter to stick to something I'll cover it in soot from a carbonized flame with the torch. Spatter just rolls off.
Thanks! Yeah that might work, maybe it would rub off too easy?
Probably. Good point.
Pour zircon furnace paint down the inside of the canister, let it drain through. Repeat if you need to to coat the interior with a nonstick layer
I have never priced it, but Tim at Big Dog forge uses Stainless steel square tubing and has no issues peeling the can. Might be worth it in time saved.
I'm thinking so..
@@FireCreekForge I'm fairly sure I've seen him mig weld on the end caps, so there's no need to worry about trying to get SS flat plate for that and the rebar handle welds to the end with no problems.
Didn’t even know about having to vent.. forged and fire which I know is a tv show always says you need it air tight. Makes sense though always some moisture and I enclosed container means it goes boom. Thanks for the info for if and when I get into this hobby
There is a knife maker from the Ukraine, I think, who drills a small hole in the end of every canister that he dose and soaks the canister in kerosene before forge welding. The burning of the kerosene eliminates oxygen in the material to be forge welded.
@@smartypants5036 are you talking about Shurap? His videos are great. He does a lot of stuff I haven’t seen before
@@michellebradshaw2801 I think you might be bang on the money. The name is very familiar to me he is a craftsman of note for sure.
Is there a part 2 to this video?
The forbidden cereal 2:58
If you add some paper, wrapping the inside of the canister, it will not only eat the oxygen causing a vacuum but cause a carbon layer as not to let the metal weld to the sides. So it is a dual purpose of getting two birds stoned at once.
Why not using just stainless steal box section for the canester?
I hear that works well
@@FireCreekForge I'm not a blacksmith, so I don't know if it works. Maybe it's worth a try..
As a pipewelder by trade I keep looking at my stub bucket and wonder if those 6010 and or 7018 stubs would work for a canister Damascus blade
I imagine you could weld them into a billet for appearance, but would not make a good edge steel
"Might get breezy later"
A full sized adult moose flies by looking quite confused at the lack of inflight entertainment.
Lol, totally. 75 mph gusts!
@@FireCreekForge Had some wind out east coast side in my area like that recently.
Surprised me that no trees came down on power lines for once.
Or any of my local dairy farmers didn't lose any cows.
What is that white powder that is placed on the iron while it is hot
Borax
@@FireCreekForge Thank you, I wish you good luck
What kind of press are you using?
It's a press I built
What's that grey thing you mixed with the ball bearing?
That is powdered steel
@@FireCreekForge thx
I always use liquid paper to stop the welding of the can, let it dry and then stuff the can.
I heard its better to wrap it up in the literal sheats of paper because it forms a nice ash and it doesnt stick
@@sran9492 That is what the Japanese did, paper, straw and ash. but liquid paper works perfect, but must be dry before stuffing the canister.
Why not stainless steel square tubeing if you can get it?
I hear that works great, I haven't sourced any yet
Surface grinder?
i don't know if this idea has been given to you but, i know you can pour liquid white out into the can to coat the inside before adding your material. i haven't done it myself so i can't say how well it works
Haha i just commented the same thing i have used it in the past and it work pretty well
i've seen some smith's drilling a hole in one end of the canister after welding it shut. i think that is to prevent the canister from popping open from too much pressure
Yes, that's correct
So why didnt you just fill the tube with the balls vibrate it and then add the dust and vibrate it to fill inthe space?
I would guess that adding balls then dust repeatedly is a bit more efficient in making sure the dust is well packed in between the balls.
Looking forward to part 2
Is there a part 2? I can’t find it 😩
No, there's not
Could never find part 2 of this project.., 😜
Paper mate whiteout is a cheap easy way to stop it from fusing to the can.
Let it dry completely before filling up the can.
Which powdered steel did you use?
Hey is it possibel for flux in forge to melt cannister or was my forge too hot. I just made my 3/4in cannister and there was cannister missing. I drilled 1/16 hole so i don't believe it exploded, didn't hear pop.
Sounds like too much heat, flux will coat the steel but not visibly erode it.
Have you ever tried stainless box tubing? I got a pc from my buddy that was food grade from a supply company and it worked great can pealed clean
Not yet
You should have way more subs
I thought I saw a hole in the first end you welded on but then welded over it?
I wonder if heating the tube compromised it's seam weld? Maybe with thun cans a canoe style cannister would be easier to apply ss foil or paint it?
Whiteout or spray paint with Titanium in it??? What one is better for coating the canister?
I think paint stays on better
@@FireCreekForge I need to upgrade my forge to get to welding temps but when I do Paint it is.
You could use thinner tubing
@fire creek forge. Bro have you been on Forged In Fire yet?
Yes sir, Season 6 Episode 8
I'm sure I saw some guys lining out the canister with Pritt correction fluid, the stuff you use to correct typos. Some guys use it on their computer screens(!). It makes sense, as I suspect the main ingredient in it is chalk, which doesn't melt easily. You just throw some in the canister of which one end is sealed, roll it around until all surfaces are covered and throw out the excess.
I've tried some of that, haven't been able to keep it from flaking off as it dries
Titanium Dioxide, maybe?
@@troywalker8078 That's what most "white out" correction fluids use as colorants. While it works to prevent bonding when in place, keeping it in place is a function of the binding agents used. Unfortunately, that part varies more with a lot of binders being VERY sensitive to oil and scale.
Whiteout works as a protective layer. Just be sure to let it dry COMPLETELY
What is that powder you added in tube?
Ok so I am really really new to metalworking/bladesmithing but I was wondering about how he couldn’t fit the steel foil in the tube so it’s smaller diameter... This might be a dumb question but can you precut strips to a little past the length and run them through to give your separations, then fold the at the bottom before welding it ... your foil already formed ... so can just add your powder and bearings?
Is that feasible or am I missing something that should be obvious?
Foil doesn't cooperate that easily, there would be voids in the corners of the canister...
What kind of power steel did you use?
1080 with 4% nickel added
Way to keep at it and finding a way. Lucky it wasn't a big venting.
Thanks! Yeah, for sure
Yang di campurkan itu jenis bubuk apa?
what would happen if you cold blued the inside of the tube before filling. I have no skills at metal smithing but just wonder what the result would be
I don't think that would be sufficient to keep it from on welding, but I'm not sure
I want to do this.
You should always do a just in case hole
Maybe a stupid question, but why not use a stainless canister when forge welding?
I hear that works great, of course the ss tubing costs more but is probably worth it. I haven't tracked any down yet.
Is part 2 out yet?
Couldn't find it...
Not yet..!
Do you think soot from acetylene would work?
I think it would rub off too easy, but I don't know.
Have you ever made a full tang knife?
You can use liquid white out to keep your can from sticking to your material
Whats the powder he puts in when putting the bearings in?
That is powdered steel
White out will keep the canister from welding to the material. Just let it dry first
I use white spray paint now, have had great results with that.
Is there a part 2?
Metal seems like it wouldn't forge together if the scale method was true.
White spray paint is loaded with titanium dioxide. The cheaper the better. You only need it for the barrier, not it’s intended use.
I actually used that for the caps, and it worked great. I haven't been able to find any paint that says it has Ti dioxide in it, some actually say zinc, anyway the one I tried on the caps didn't say but it worked.
@@FireCreekForge Most water based paints have Titanium Dioxide. It's what makes the paint thick and cover easily.
I think steel heat treat foil is the best thing to use for canister welding.
It works well, white paint is easier to work with though
Carbon works as a weld spatter prevention , as shown by Michael over at
michaelcthulhu here on youtube , dunno if you have a propane or torch but if you do it might be worth a try
Where's part 2
Make a hole in the cup... so, gases ventilate...
Many lessons were learned that day, and fortunately none of them were learned at the cost of physical injury.
try to put white corrector in your can before the bearings
Does anybody know, if the balls from a bearing or the outer part they usually use to make blades, create exactly the same blade? I mean, the material (steel) is probably the same, but is it the outcome, exactly the same in terms of the characteristics of the steel and the performance of the blade?
Could you have welded one end of the canister, then filled the canister with white out. Then slowly pour the liquid out of the canister to get a uniform coating? You could always catch the white out and save it for future projects.
Yes but i haven’t had much luck with white out, for some reason it flakes off
@@FireCreekForge Gotcha. I have never used a forge, so if my next suggestion is just dumb, that's why! lol What about using two pieces of angle iron, afix the foil to the inside of each, then weld the two angle irons together to form your canister. Would that end up just melting the foil?
@@markdarragh6620 that should work, i think
Were is the part 2 from 1000 bearing knife?
Where abouts in Texas are you located?
In the Lubbock area
Sweet, same.
Очень круто! Ты молодец!
What if you just mix the bearings and powdered steel together.. wouldn't that make it easier to fill the can?
Possibly, but I want a concentration of bearings so they are touching, then the gaps filled with powdered steel, I don't know if that would work if they were pre mixed
3:20…. What are you trying to accomplish with the sawzall?
Fake it Til you make it
So glad you didn't stop and redo the can but rolled with the punches!! It's gonna be a beauty!!
Use house hold white out as a liner on the inside of the can just dump it in and roll your can until the whole inside is nice and coated it will help keep your filler from welding itself to the can
Try lining the inside with white out and let the white out dry you have to or it won't work
Since i have never watched a video like this (at least i don't think i have), how hot does that can get
Watching you work made me think, “this fella needs to build a foot pedal for his press!”
Similar to circle track race cars, a pedal with a loop that basically goes over your foot so you can accelerate and decelerate would be needed. Anyways, cool video!
Yep, I actually put one on a short time ago!
@@FireCreekForge Great minds..
Dayger? You mean a dagger? Lol
Still waiting for part 2
I started on part two..!
Here I am looking @ a man wasting slingshot ammo!!! 🤦🏼♂️
Good job on the knife 👏🏻
you liquid paper (white out) let dry first
My dude. A few dollars for a nice silicone funnel will make your life so much easier.
Yes, true
New guy here. What is that order stuff Yu are using?
Stonemountain went forging knifes :D
Dayger?
I hear white out works to keep it from welding to your blank