A few things of note that almost everyone gets wrong: 1.) The black parts of the leading edges are de-icing boots and are made of rubber with inflatable air cushions underneath - hence they would never show metal / silver on the black leading edges unless HEAVILY damaged if they were installed. 2.) Almost all control surfaces on WW2 planes were covered in fabric ( not all all - most ) and being a different material they would fade faster than the metal aluminum components. Your kit will have a crosshatched and sometimes "saggy" texture if the surfaces were canvas covered. 3.) From the factory most planes were fairly glossy but exposure and sun faded them to nice matte / semi matte finish. This is true of modern aircraft as well. Aircraft painted in the field were were painted with the appropriate federal standard paint when possible. However, depending on the unit, paint would be thinned down with fuel since it was more easily found than paint thinner so the colors / shade / tone of aircraft would differ from each other over time. 4. ) Paint - even if it is a perfect Federal Standard match - would appear lighter due to the visible scaling phenomena. Lightening scale model paint to a certain degree depending on the scale of the model makes it more accurate. 5. ) Build / paint / display how you want! As long as you like it - WHO CARES! Nice work on the kit.
Thanks for your comprehensive comment, appreciate it. I guess the "chipping" on the de-icing boots is the one mistake that will haunt me for the rest of my life. I had studied a number of historical photo references (grainy b/w images) but obviously misinterpreted those spots that were clearly visible on some of the wings' leading edges. Too bad I didn't know they were made of rubber. I like heavy weathering but have been a lot more careful and restrained on my more recent builds. Greetings from Germany, RWO
@@RWOModels In my defense, I've been doing this for 40+/- years...lol. Also the boots were factory and depending on the unit / mission they would get removed, so they'd be or not be installed depending on the exact time frame of the aircraft being modeled. Happy modeling and thanks for the response!
Totally different from the old model I build a lot of time ago, now the details are really astounding. This is always been one of my favourite WWII medium bombers, for the ballast in the nose you could also use two part epoxy glue, it's more sure than PVA glue.
Thanks for your comment and your advice regarding the epoxy, much appreciated. In this case the lead ballast is so well enclosed in the nose gear bay I'm sure it can't move :) Thanks again, RWO/Oliver
Thanks for the hint! I can only recommend to put as much weight to the front as possible, and to hide it under the cockpit floor sounds reasonable. I really underestimated the tail heaviness of the model and thought filling up the nose gear bay with lead was enough.
Nice build. I would remind you though ( and I do so because it is so easily repairable) that since the "deicer boots on the leading edge of the flying surfaces, such as the wing, are made of rubber so that they can expand to break the ice free of the wing leading edge, they would not suffer from "chipping". Perhaps you could touch up those chipped areas affected with some black paint. Just a thought, after all, it is your airplane. Love your paint work.
Thanks Randy, appreciate your kind comment! Putting the "chipping" effect on the leading edges was the biggest mistake I made on this build, I received quite a lot of feedback from viewers about it. I actually never knew these black parts were in fact made of inflatable rubber. Learning never stops! I hope I'll find the time to do a short follow-up video where I'll fix the leading edges - and also re-paint the rear "guns" since they were broomsticks painted black rather than actual guns (another build mistake). Thanks again and stay safe, greetings from Germany, Oliver/RWO
I love the Airfix new tooled aircraft! I can't get enough of them! Some people cricize the deep panel lines, but I find them very easy to accent and weather. Their are no fit issues, they are so well engineered and detailed.
Broom sticks painted black for rear 'guns' on the originals, I believe....and 75 ft clearance on deck for Doolittle's plane to take off.😊 That's one beautiful piece of modelling masterclass, inspirational !
Thank you so much for your feedback! I think I will change a few details on the model, including the black broom sticks, and do a short follow up video. Seems like I got a few details wrong and feel like I need to correct them. 🙂
The B-25B did not have a tail gun position. The top turret, located aft of the bomb bay, served as the tail gun. As well as the waist guns. Subsequent models of the B-25 moved the top turret forward of the bomb bay and added a tail gun position and waist guns. Other modifications were added in theater to make the B-25 one of the most modified medium bombers. Early B models had a dorsal gun on the bottom, but this was removed prior to the Doolittle raid as it was ineffective. Many, if not all, of the Doolittle raiders stuck black painted broom sticks in the tail to simulate a tail gun, without the increased weight. My main source for this information is “Thirty Seconds over Tokyo,” by Ted Lawson, one of the pilots of the Doolittle raid.
YES YES YES..... this is my favorite version of the B - 25... I have a REVELL 1/87 issue in the original box art... I just bought the ATLANTIS reissued kit... I also have the ITALIRIE 1/72 B - 25 with photo etch, and Squadron clear canopy kit.. you did a great job.... now you need a carrier deck to sit it on... if you don’t mind , I’ m going to follow your technique... saved this video... again you did a GREAT JOB
Thank you very much for your comment, I really appreciate it. My wife also asked me to build a diorama for the B-25 and when I told her a full carrier deck in the same scale would be three and a half meters long we both had a good laugh. 😂 Stay safe and enjoy your build! Greetings from Germany, Oliver/RWO
Beautiful job. My uncle was a radio man on B25s in Europe during WWII. I'm thinking of building this kit as a tribute to him for my office, next to the M4 tank like those my father scouted for as an advance man in Patton's army.
Thank you for your comment. We owe these heroes so much and we need to keep their memory alive. Both of my grandfathers served in WWII - unfortunately on the wrong side. The horrific wartime stories they told me when I was a young kid left a deep impression on me, and I realized early on that being able to live a life in freedom and peace is the highest privilege we have. Thanks and best regards from Germany, Oliver/RWO
There are lots of model builders online, but you sir, are one of the finest. Thank you for showing this and for the absolutely awesome music. I hate jarring loud music when watching something like this. This is an art show not a disco.lol. Totally subbed and liked
This is an excellent build mate. I’m just about to start this kit and was looking for some inspiration. I found it here!!! Thank you for sharing this lovely work.
Micro Krystal Klear is basically water based PVC glue, so it is impossible that your windows were fogged by that. More likely is there was a small opening or crack that wasn't masked properly and some over spray got inside the fuselage.
Thanks for your explanation, much appreciated. Fortunately I managed to get into the fuselage with a few cotton swabs and similar objects and wipe off most of the windows. The residue could be removed very easily so I assumed it had to do with Krystal Klear I had used shortly before. Thanks again for pointing this out.
Beautiful build and paint job a great looking . Thoroughly enjoyed the vid. If you are struggling with space for weights in the nose. I often put weights in engine nacels.
Thanks for your great comment! I considered putting additional weight into the engine nacelles but unfortunately at that time I couldn't open them any more. I thought filling up the nose gear bay to the max was enough but apparently it wasn't. Learning never stops I guess. :) Cheers, Oliver/RWO
Thank you so much for your awesome comment! I know there are hundreds of better and more experienced modelers on YT with way more sophisticated build and paint techniques. I just started out with this hobby one year ago and it gives me so much peace and relaxation after having some rough times. I am happy you like my work, it really means a lot to me! Thanks again and stay safe, Oliver/RWO
@@RWOModels Wow, you show amazing skills for someone only modelling for a year. The only way is up, and I look forward to seeing how you can actually improve! Hope those bad times are behind you now, and you can enjoy the future, and the fun of this hobby. All the best!
@@RWOModels viewing this again! I am about to start this build. Also, the comments about weathering and chipping are very useful, you have quite a lot of knowledgeable viewers!
Thank you very much! I studied the historical film footage available to get an impression how the actual planes looked when they launched off of USS Hornet. The image quality is not the best though so I put a bit of my own imagination into the build. It might not be perfectly accurate but this is how I think this plane could have looked like. Glad you like it! Cheers!
That's a really nice job you've done there. If there's one piece of advice/reccomend and that's use the Alclad paints for metal finish, it's a better look and easy on the spray gun.
A great build sir, I am more of a fan of 1/48th scale, but I could be persuaded to go to 1/72nd after watching this video, keep safe and well in these crazy time we are in, greztings from Australia.
Very nice build! Could you please consider music background change. It makes some fear and negative tension in my opinion. First time when I felt really relaxed was from 26 min.
I see you're applying tamiya extra thin over painted parts. Do you not have issues with that? I'm a new modeler, and every time I try that the paint reacts as well and sort of bulges out from the joint. Maybe it won't do that with the paints you're using? I don't have an airbrush yet, so I'm stuck using spray cans which I think are usually enamel, lacquer, or some other kind of solvent based.
Yes, you need to be very careful with glueing painted parts. If you need a really strong bond you definitely need to remove your paint from the contact surfaces. Using only very small amounts of glue can help prevent the paint from reacting with it - but I can tell you I have messed up a lot of parts this way. 😬 I only use acrylic airbrush paints so I’m afraid I can’t help you with other types of paints. Thanks for watching!
I swear I recall someone explaining that there were no defensive guns on the Doolittle B25s because they wanted to save on the weight and that they used broom handles painted black instead. Does anyone know if that's correct?
Good question, but the thing is you KNOW the interior details are THERE even if you barely can see them. 😄 There may be an irrational side to this but hey, it's just a hobby and it's for fun! ☺️ Thanks for watching!
Excellent! I am building this same kit now. What did you use on the glass - as in those stickers? Is that a template? Also, can you please explain why/ how you did the landing lights the way you did? It looks fantastic - I just don't understand it... thanks a ton for sharing!
Thanks Bryan! The „stickers“ I used on the clear parts are a set of pre-cut masks manufactured by Eduard specifically made for the B-25. These sets are way easier and quicker to use than cutting your own masks from masking tape. Is that the information you needed? Regarding the landing lights I wanted to achieve a more realistic look instead of just painting the insert part silver as the instructions suggest. So I only painted the rear of the part in Aluminium silver to have a „reflective coat“ on the back. Then I carefully masked the round „lens“ on the front using masking fluid. After that I covered the whole part with a flat black coat, front and back (over the silver coat). Finally I removed the masking from the „lens“ and now it looks like there is a reflector lamp sitting in the wing just like real landing lights. Hope this helps. Enjoy your build! 🙂 Cheers, Oliver/RWO
@@RWOModels Thank you! This makes perfect sense now... I had no idea you could get pre-cut masks, so that's something I will add to my list. Also the Revell glue - is that something I need to order online only? I've never seen it at any retail locations. Thanks for sharing your videos - they are very helpful.
Thank you! Regarding weathering I personally think there is always a thin red line between „not enough“ and „too much“. I was not sure how this particular plane actually looked on the day of the Raid. Some of the participating aircraft looked extremely weathered whereas others appeared to be in almost pristine condition. So I decided to go for a more decent „in-between“ look. In my upcoming video you‘ll be able to see a heavier weathered plane, maybe you’ll like this one better! 🙂 Cheers, Oliver/RWO
Thanks for your comment and sorry for the late reply. Yes, I usually add thinner to my paints. I mostly use Vallejo Model Air and Tamiya acrylic paints together with Vallejo Airbrush Thinner and Tamiya X-20A respectively. Don’t give up if your first results are not as successful as expected. It takes practice to figure out mixing ratios, pressure etc. and you will get better and more satisfying results with each build. My first attempts ended up in a real mess but after a while I realised that painting the models is the part I like the most. 🙂
Vielen Dank! Qualität und Passform des Bausatzes sind sehr gut, sodass man nur sehr wenig nacharbeiten oder eigene Lösungen finden muss. Die Anleitung ist detailliert und zeigt alle Schritte genau. Aber es sind schon relativ viele Teile, sodass ich persönlich denke, dass es von Vorteil wäre, wenn man schon einige Modelle gebaut hat. Letztendlich ist es immer die Frage, wie hoch die eigenen Ansprüche sind und wie sehr man sich in so ein Bauprojekt hineinkniet. Mein erstes Modell ohne jede Vorerfahrung war eine Saturn V in 1:144 von Revell. Habe ich irgendwie hinbekommen, bin aber auch schon ein älteres Semester mit entsprechender Ernsthaftigkeit und viel Geduld. 😊 Danach habe ich nochmal mit ganz einfachen Modellen von vorne angefangen und habe den Schwierigkeitsgrad meiner Modelle dann Schritt für Schritt erhöht.
Very good work overall but the silver chipping on a black leading edges of the wings was a bad idea. There are de-icers made of black rubber, not black-painted metal.
Thanks for your comment! Another viewer already pointed me to that stupid mistake. I studied some original Doolittle Raid images and some of the planes had some spots visible on the leading edges. Image quality was quite bad so I assumed it was chipping. I really did not know the black edges were in fact de-icing rubber boots... Learning new things every day, even as an old man at the age of 50... Thanks again! Cheers, Oliver/RWO
Thanks! My next model will actually be built from an older, more simple kit so I’m already curious how you guys will like it. I usually only build what I like and try to have fun and learn new things. 🙂
Thanks for your comment! The music I use in my videos is taken from the RUclips Audio Library. Most tracks are from the Ambient genre there. Hope this helps. Cheers!
try heating the wheels up a little to soften them the push down on the to belly them out and flatten the bottom of the wheel a little to imitate the weight of the plane on them
This Airfix kit actually has weighted wheels out of the box, the effect is not very pronounced though. Will try your suggested method in a future model, unfortunately the wheels for the next build are already painted and finished so I can't do it there. :) Thanks for watching!
You did an amazing job on every single aspect of this build. I'm working on a 1:72 Avro Lancaster right now, I'm wondering if you could tell me what you used to achieve the oil and exhaust stains?
Thank you very much! I sprayed on the exhaust stains with highly diluted paint (up to 80% thinner). Some dark grey, brown or black or a combination of multiple layers will do, just as you like. Low pressure (10-15psi) and 0.2mm nozzle. For the oil stains I used one of Vallejo Weathering Effects, can’t remember which one exactly, probably 73.813 Oil Stains or 73.814 Fuel Stains. These products are ready to use, I have a few of them and really like them. Hope this helps. Good luck with your Lanc! Cheers, Oliver/RWO
Thank you! If you look closely you’ll see it’s not a Sub on my wrist. 😉 Actually been trying to buy one for some time now but as you may know these are very hard to get or they are sold for ridiculous prices. Thanks for watching!
Orginal plane was crashed 🙁. I have book about "Doolittle raid" , only one plane survived (Edward "Ski" York ) , witch landing near Vladivostok in USSR.
Great build RWO. Well done sir. On a side note, can anyone please tell me what the black box was in the bomb bay instead of a fourth bomb? It was below the bomb above it, so I guess it’s something designed to be dropped...
@@RWOModels Aber für einen fortgeschritten Einsteiger ist das Ergebnis hunderttausend mal besser als das was ich nach knapp nem Jahr auf die Beine gestellt habe😂
Danke dir, Kurt! Ich habe den Luxus, sehr viel Zeit in das Hobby investieren zu können. Vor gar nicht allzu langer Zeit hätte ich mir selbst niemals zugetraut, solche Modelle zu bauen. Umso mehr freut es mich, dass ich so viele tolle Rückmeldungen bekomme und die Möglichkeit habe, den großen Spaß, den mir das Hobby macht, hier auf dem Kanal mich euch zu teilen. 🙂 Danke nochmals und viele Grüße, Oliver/RWO
I use three different pairs of Tamiya HG tweezers and some very pointy cheap tweezers from Amazon. The Tamiya HG are quite expensive but a pleasure to work with. Thanks for watching!
I m used to replacing some parts of the landing gear using Office clips, just to reinforce it, besides so much work deserve it Dont you think? Greetings from Chile
Hi Gustavo, I just checked again on my model, the landing gear legs bend a little when you push them but I don’t think it’s absolutely necessary to reinforce them. I would say it depends on how much you move your models around and how safely you can store them. 🙂 Most important advice would be to add as much weight to the nose and even to the front of the engine nacelles as possible to keep the model balanced. All the best from Germany, stay safe! Oliver/RWO
Thanks for watching. Please take a look here, no yellow prop tips on the planes: commons.m.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:B-25_on_the_deck_of_USS_Hornet_during_Doolittle_Raid.jpg commons.m.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:USS_Hornet_(CV-8)_with_USS_Gwin_(DD-433)_during_Doolittle_Raid_1942.jpg
Hi, I tested a GoPro style action cam but was not satisfied because of the image distortion and the overall quality of the recordings. It was no original GoPro cam though. I now use a mirrorless Panasonic Lumix G9 system camera mounted overhead on my main working desk. When airbrushing in my extractor booth I use my old iPhone mounted on a Manfrotto Magic Arm.
It’s either to protect my fingers from paint, glue etc. or to prevent fingerprints or grease getting on sensitive parts. I had blue gloves before, now I have black ones. 🙂
there were no guns on the plane they had to replace them all with broomsticks painted black because it was too heavy for the plane to get off the carrier deck
Very Nice, I love 1/72 scale. Maybe consider silly putty for nose weight, it fits everywhere and won't attack the plastic. Great Job, Thank you. Jeff IPMS 31180
A few things of note that almost everyone gets wrong: 1.) The black parts of the leading edges are de-icing boots and are made of rubber with inflatable air cushions underneath - hence they would never show metal / silver on the black leading edges unless HEAVILY damaged if they were installed. 2.) Almost all control surfaces on WW2 planes were covered in fabric ( not all all - most ) and being a different material they would fade faster than the metal aluminum components. Your kit will have a crosshatched and sometimes "saggy" texture if the surfaces were canvas covered. 3.) From the factory most planes were fairly glossy but exposure and sun faded them to nice matte / semi matte finish. This is true of modern aircraft as well. Aircraft painted in the field were were painted with the appropriate federal standard paint when possible. However, depending on the unit, paint would be thinned down with fuel since it was more easily found than paint thinner so the colors / shade / tone of aircraft would differ from each other over time. 4. ) Paint - even if it is a perfect Federal Standard match - would appear lighter due to the visible scaling phenomena. Lightening scale model paint to a certain degree depending on the scale of the model makes it more accurate. 5. ) Build / paint / display how you want! As long as you like it - WHO CARES! Nice work on the kit.
Thanks for your comprehensive comment, appreciate it. I guess the "chipping" on the de-icing boots is the one mistake that will haunt me for the rest of my life. I had studied a number of historical photo references (grainy b/w images) but obviously misinterpreted those spots that were clearly visible on some of the wings' leading edges. Too bad I didn't know they were made of rubber. I like heavy weathering but have been a lot more careful and restrained on my more recent builds. Greetings from Germany, RWO
@@RWOModels In my defense, I've been doing this for 40+/- years...lol. Also the boots were factory and depending on the unit / mission they would get removed, so they'd be or not be installed depending on the exact time frame of the aircraft being modeled. Happy modeling and thanks for the response!
Most American aircraft had metal skinned flaps
Thanks Colin Robinson. Lol
Totally different from the old model I build a lot of time ago, now the details are really astounding.
This is always been one of my favourite WWII medium bombers, for the ballast in the nose you could also use two part epoxy glue, it's more sure than PVA glue.
Thanks for your comment and your advice regarding the epoxy, much appreciated. In this case the lead ballast is so well enclosed in the nose gear bay I'm sure it can't move :) Thanks again, RWO/Oliver
There is a company and I cant remember the name, thats makes a lead weight in the shape of the cockpit floor. Apparently this kit needs it bad.
Thanks for the hint! I can only recommend to put as much weight to the front as possible, and to hide it under the cockpit floor sounds reasonable. I really underestimated the tail heaviness of the model and thought filling up the nose gear bay with lead was enough.
Nice build. I would remind you though ( and I do so because it is so easily repairable) that since the "deicer boots on the leading edge of the flying surfaces, such as the wing, are made of rubber so that they can expand to break the ice free of the wing leading edge, they would not suffer from "chipping". Perhaps you could touch up those chipped areas affected with some black paint. Just a thought, after all, it is your airplane. Love your paint work.
Thanks Randy, appreciate your kind comment! Putting the "chipping" effect on the leading edges was the biggest mistake I made on this build, I received quite a lot of feedback from viewers about it. I actually never knew these black parts were in fact made of inflatable rubber. Learning never stops! I hope I'll find the time to do a short follow-up video where I'll fix the leading edges - and also re-paint the rear "guns" since they were broomsticks painted black rather than actual guns (another build mistake). Thanks again and stay safe, greetings from Germany, Oliver/RWO
Beautiful build, if i knew the Airfix kit was as good as that it would be in the stash, soon remidied.
I love the Airfix new tooled aircraft! I can't get enough of them! Some people cricize the deep panel lines, but I find them very easy to accent and weather. Their are no fit issues, they are so well engineered and detailed.
I also like the new Airfix kits a lot. Will definitely build some more in the future. Thanks for watching! Cheers!
Broom sticks painted black for rear 'guns' on the originals, I believe....and 75 ft clearance on deck for Doolittle's plane to take off.😊 That's one beautiful piece of modelling masterclass, inspirational !
Thank you so much for your feedback! I think I will change a few details on the model, including the black broom sticks, and do a short follow up video. Seems like I got a few details wrong and feel like I need to correct them. 🙂
The B-25B did not have a tail gun position. The top turret, located aft of the bomb bay, served as the tail gun. As well as the waist guns. Subsequent models of the B-25 moved the top turret forward of the bomb bay and added a tail gun position and waist guns. Other modifications were added in theater to make the B-25 one of the most modified medium bombers. Early B models had a dorsal gun on the bottom, but this was removed prior to the Doolittle raid as it was ineffective. Many, if not all, of the Doolittle raiders stuck black painted broom sticks in the tail to simulate a tail gun, without the increased weight. My main source for this information is “Thirty Seconds over Tokyo,” by Ted Lawson, one of the pilots of the Doolittle raid.
YES YES YES..... this is my favorite version of the B - 25... I have a REVELL 1/87 issue in the original box art... I just bought the ATLANTIS reissued kit... I also have the ITALIRIE 1/72 B - 25 with photo etch, and Squadron clear canopy kit.. you did a great job.... now you need a carrier deck to sit it on... if you don’t mind , I’ m going to follow your technique... saved this video... again you did a GREAT JOB
Thank you very much for your comment, I really appreciate it. My wife also asked me to build a diorama for the B-25 and when I told her a full carrier deck in the same scale would be three and a half meters long we both had a good laugh. 😂 Stay safe and enjoy your build! Greetings from Germany, Oliver/RWO
Atlantis b-
25 1/87 model kit
Excellent job fella!!!
Thank you! Cheers!
Beautiful job. My uncle was a radio man on B25s in Europe during WWII. I'm thinking of building this kit as a tribute to him for my office, next to the M4 tank like those my father scouted for as an advance man in Patton's army.
Thank you for your comment. We owe these heroes so much and we need to keep their memory alive. Both of my grandfathers served in WWII - unfortunately on the wrong side. The horrific wartime stories they told me when I was a young kid left a deep impression on me, and I realized early on that being able to live a life in freedom and peace is the highest privilege we have. Thanks and best regards from Germany, Oliver/RWO
That was amazing. Detail seemed effortless for such a natural finish. Great stuff sir.
Thank you very much, appreciate your comment!
There are lots of model builders online, but you sir, are one of the finest. Thank you for showing this and for the absolutely awesome music. I hate jarring loud music when watching something like this. This is an art show not a disco.lol. Totally subbed and liked
Thanks so much for your kind words and your support, appreciate it! 👍
Good job! The real “Hari Kari-er” pilot, Charles Ross Greening, would have been proud! 👍
Thanks for your nice comment, much appreciated! 😊 Greetings from Germany, Oliver/RWO
Good painting and weathering, quite realistic.
Beautiful model with beautiful BGM... Outstanding!
This is an excellent build mate. I’m just about to start this kit and was looking for some inspiration. I found it here!!! Thank you for sharing this lovely work.
6:10 / 32:47
North American B-25B Doolittle Raid 1/72 Airfix 👍 it is very interesting to assemble ...
Absolutely, the kit is very well engineered and fun to build. 👍 Thanks for watching! 🙂
Remarquable montage et sublime peinture .....Bravo
Merci beaucoup! 🙂 Appreciate your comment, thanks for watching!
Tired of you guys making it look so easy and coming up with beautiful builds! LOL! Excellent my friend! Learned a lot on this one!
Thanks my friend! The hobby gives me so much fun and relaxation and I’m happy I can share this with you in my videos. 🙂
How do you only have 1k subs?!
You deserve way more
Thank you very much, I‘m happy you like my work! Always trying my best... 🙂
Micro Krystal Klear is basically water based PVC glue, so it is impossible that your windows were fogged by that. More likely is there was a small opening or crack that wasn't masked properly and some over spray got inside the fuselage.
Thanks for your explanation, much appreciated. Fortunately I managed to get into the fuselage with a few cotton swabs and similar objects and wipe off most of the windows. The residue could be removed very easily so I assumed it had to do with Krystal Klear I had used shortly before. Thanks again for pointing this out.
Awesome job! Best build yet and phantastic pictures! I really like your style.
Thanks so much for all your love and support! ♥️
Are you subbed to PhlyDaily?
I like the individual aircraft choice. Nice job.
Nice choice of plane...great result!..
This is nothing like the 1/72 scale Airfix kits that I remember from mid to late 1960s
I must admit I don't know any of the older Airfix kits but I had a lot of fun building this one! Highly recommended kit! 👍🙂
Beautiful build and paint job a great looking . Thoroughly enjoyed the vid. If you are struggling with space for weights in the nose. I often put weights in engine nacels.
Thanks for your great comment! I considered putting additional weight into the engine nacelles but unfortunately at that time I couldn't open them any more. I thought filling up the nose gear bay to the max was enough but apparently it wasn't. Learning never stops I guess. :) Cheers, Oliver/RWO
Beautiful B-25 congratulations.
A fantastic build, that. Loved the video - production, videography, zen music, everything. Subbed.
Thank you so much for your awesome comment! I know there are hundreds of better and more experienced modelers on YT with way more sophisticated build and paint techniques. I just started out with this hobby one year ago and it gives me so much peace and relaxation after having some rough times. I am happy you like my work, it really means a lot to me! Thanks again and stay safe, Oliver/RWO
@@RWOModels Wow, you show amazing skills for someone only modelling for a year. The only way is up, and I look forward to seeing how you can actually improve! Hope those bad times are behind you now, and you can enjoy the future, and the fun of this hobby. All the best!
Thanks Kevin for your kind words! It's all good, next build is already underway. :) Best wishes from Germany, Oliver/RWO
Now stuff it with paper…light it on fire and throw it off the roof….seriously, you are an artist. Beautiful work.
Thank you! I might do that when I run out of storage space in my tiny hobby room... 😏😂
I'm just about to start my build. This is a great inspiration. Lovely job!
Thank you!
Amazing! What were the model pieces soaked in at the beginning? I'm trying to soak up all the knowledge on model building as I can.
I cleaned the parts in water with a bit of dish soap to remove grease and residues from the surfaces. Thanks!
Just bought this one. The moulding looks amazing!!!
It’s an awesome kit, enjoy your build! 👍 Thanks!
@@RWOModels viewing this again! I am about to start this build. Also, the comments about weathering and chipping are very useful, you have quite a lot of knowledgeable viewers!
@@tsman2709 Very cool, have fun with your build! 👍🙂 And don't apply "chipping" to the wing leading edges or props like I did. 😄 Thanks again!
Superb job. I really like the decent weathering. Looks awesome!
Thank you very much! I studied the historical film footage available to get an impression how the actual planes looked when they launched off of USS Hornet. The image quality is not the best though so I put a bit of my own imagination into the build. It might not be perfectly accurate but this is how I think this plane could have looked like. Glad you like it! Cheers!
That's a really nice job you've done there. If there's one piece of advice/reccomend and that's use the Alclad paints for metal finish, it's a better look and easy on the spray gun.
Very nice work. Beautiful B-25. 😎👍
Thanks a lot mate! :)
A great build sir, I am more of a fan of 1/48th scale, but I could be persuaded to go to 1/72nd after watching this video, keep safe and well in these crazy time we are in, greztings from Australia.
Thank you so much for your kind words, Les! This is so nice and motivating, I’m happy you like my work. All the best from Germany, RWO/Oliver
Excellent build 👍
Very nice build! Could you please consider music background change. It makes some fear and negative tension in my opinion. First time when I felt really relaxed was from 26 min.
Great work. Great video. Thanks for sharing.
Thank you so much! ☺️
Fantastic job! That "pilot tube" you almost broke is actually a petot tube.
Or a "pitot tube" to be exact... :) Thanks for watching!
Another masterpiece..!!!
Thank you, always trying my best! (Und ich habe so unglaublich viel von dir gelernt! Danke für alles!)
beautiful job !
Thank you! 🙂
Great build & video. 👍
I see you're applying tamiya extra thin over painted parts. Do you not have issues with that? I'm a new modeler, and every time I try that the paint reacts as well and sort of bulges out from the joint. Maybe it won't do that with the paints you're using? I don't have an airbrush yet, so I'm stuck using spray cans which I think are usually enamel, lacquer, or some other kind of solvent based.
Yes, you need to be very careful with glueing painted parts. If you need a really strong bond you definitely need to remove your paint from the contact surfaces. Using only very small amounts of glue can help prevent the paint from reacting with it - but I can tell you I have messed up a lot of parts this way. 😬 I only use acrylic airbrush paints so I’m afraid I can’t help you with other types of paints. Thanks for watching!
Gorgeous, great model.
Just picked up one of my own amd wanted to see how other people's turned out. Yours is a lot better than mine is.
Thanks for your comment, keep on building and enjoy your models! 🙂 Cheers!
I've been wanting to get a Raider B25, this one looks good quality
Absolutely, I definitely recommend this kit. I had a lot of fun building it. Thanks for watching. Cheers!
Excellent work. Very impressive.
Thank you!
Congratulations, great work and a perfect result.👍💪😍
Thank you! 🙂
Great kit built him to 👍👍👍
Thanks for your comment!
Great build and painting. Bravo ! ;o)
Thank you, glad you like it! 🙂
I swear I recall someone explaining that there were no defensive guns on the Doolittle B25s because they wanted to save on the weight and that they used broom handles painted black instead. Does anyone know if that's correct?
Yes, you're correct , broomsticks painted black to look like guns but used to save on weight 👍
I believe it did have a nose gun as well as upper turret twin guns. The lower turret was also removed.
Always wondered who modelers spend so much time and effort on interior designs when you cannot see it AT ALL when the model is finished.
Good question, but the thing is you KNOW the interior details are THERE even if you barely can see them. 😄 There may be an irrational side to this but hey, it's just a hobby and it's for fun! ☺️ Thanks for watching!
@@RWOModels I get doing part of the interior that you can see...but I get the OCD side of it.
Man, what kind of tweezers are those? I can't find anything like that.
Excellent build, very enjoyable video. Really well done!
Thank you very much, I really appreciate that! 👍🙂
Beaucoup de soin apporté á la peinture ...Super maquette ...Congrest ...
@@mafalda4556 Merci beaucoup! 🙏🙂
Good work. But prop tips should be yellow.
Got this kit in my que, but thanks to aftermarket decals, mine will be the Ruptured Duck.
“The enemy is anybody who's going to get you killed, no matter which side he is on.”
Excellent! I am building this same kit now. What did you use on the glass - as in those stickers? Is that a template? Also, can you please explain why/ how you did the landing lights the way you did? It looks fantastic - I just don't understand it... thanks a ton for sharing!
Thanks Bryan! The „stickers“ I used on the clear parts are a set of pre-cut masks manufactured by Eduard specifically made for the B-25. These sets are way easier and quicker to use than cutting your own masks from masking tape. Is that the information you needed?
Regarding the landing lights I wanted to achieve a more realistic look instead of just painting the insert part silver as the instructions suggest. So I only painted the rear of the part in Aluminium silver to have a „reflective coat“ on the back. Then I carefully masked the round „lens“ on the front using masking fluid. After that I covered the whole part with a flat black coat, front and back (over the silver coat). Finally I removed the masking from the „lens“ and now it looks like there is a reflector lamp sitting in the wing just like real landing lights.
Hope this helps. Enjoy your build! 🙂 Cheers, Oliver/RWO
@@RWOModels Thank you! This makes perfect sense now... I had no idea you could get pre-cut masks, so that's something I will add to my list. Also the Revell glue - is that something I need to order online only? I've never seen it at any retail locations. Thanks for sharing your videos - they are very helpful.
Awsome model man badass plane been my favorite plane sence I could remember
Thank you, B-25 really is an awesome machine! 😏👍
Nice build, and pleasent video style to watch. Maybe you could have highlighted a bit some pannels to get some extra life/realism in it.
Thank you! Regarding weathering I personally think there is always a thin red line between „not enough“ and „too much“. I was not sure how this particular plane actually looked on the day of the Raid. Some of the participating aircraft looked extremely weathered whereas others appeared to be in almost pristine condition. So I decided to go for a more decent „in-between“ look. In my upcoming video you‘ll be able to see a heavier weathered plane, maybe you’ll like this one better! 🙂 Cheers, Oliver/RWO
Hi top job, I'm just starting model building and would like to know do you add thinner to your acrylic paint before spray painting
Thanks for your comment and sorry for the late reply. Yes, I usually add thinner to my paints. I mostly use Vallejo Model Air and Tamiya acrylic paints together with Vallejo Airbrush Thinner and Tamiya X-20A respectively. Don’t give up if your first results are not as successful as expected. It takes practice to figure out mixing ratios, pressure etc. and you will get better and more satisfying results with each build. My first attempts ended up in a real mess but after a while I realised that painting the models is the part I like the most. 🙂
This one is beautiful with capital "B"
Thank you very much! 👍🙂
Ist der Bausatz auch für wenig Erfahrene geeignet? Cooles Video btw
Vielen Dank! Qualität und Passform des Bausatzes sind sehr gut, sodass man nur sehr wenig nacharbeiten oder eigene Lösungen finden muss. Die Anleitung ist detailliert und zeigt alle Schritte genau. Aber es sind schon relativ viele Teile, sodass ich persönlich denke, dass es von Vorteil wäre, wenn man schon einige Modelle gebaut hat. Letztendlich ist es immer die Frage, wie hoch die eigenen Ansprüche sind und wie sehr man sich in so ein Bauprojekt hineinkniet. Mein erstes Modell ohne jede Vorerfahrung war eine Saturn V in 1:144 von Revell. Habe ich irgendwie hinbekommen, bin aber auch schon ein älteres Semester mit entsprechender Ernsthaftigkeit und viel Geduld. 😊 Danach habe ich nochmal mit ganz einfachen Modellen von vorne angefangen und habe den Schwierigkeitsgrad meiner Modelle dann Schritt für Schritt erhöht.
👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻 Bravo nice build with the new tooling B25B Raid Doolittle weathering super cool congratulations 😁😀
Thank you very much! Happy you like it! :)
Very good work overall but the silver chipping on a black leading edges of the wings was a bad idea. There are de-icers made of black rubber, not black-painted metal.
Thanks for your comment! Another viewer already pointed me to that stupid mistake. I studied some original Doolittle Raid images and some of the planes had some spots visible on the leading edges. Image quality was quite bad so I assumed it was chipping. I really did not know the black edges were in fact de-icing rubber boots... Learning new things every day, even as an old man at the age of 50... Thanks again! Cheers, Oliver/RWO
@@RWOModels I'm sure your next model will be even better! Cheers!
Thanks! My next model will actually be built from an older, more simple kit so I’m already curious how you guys will like it. I usually only build what I like and try to have fun and learn new things. 🙂
@@RWOModels what will it be?
And no chipping on the props. Doolittle ordered all of the aircraft to have new props installed before being loaded on the Hornet.
Just seen the build and you have done a great job. Can I ask what music you have as background. Stay safe.
Thanks for your comment! The music I use in my videos is taken from the RUclips Audio Library. Most tracks are from the Ambient genre there. Hope this helps. Cheers!
What does primer do?
try heating the wheels up a little to soften them the push down on the to belly them out and flatten the bottom of the wheel a little to imitate the weight of the plane on them
This Airfix kit actually has weighted wheels out of the box, the effect is not very pronounced though. Will try your suggested method in a future model, unfortunately the wheels for the next build are already painted and finished so I can't do it there. :) Thanks for watching!
una verdadera belleza felicitaciones !!!!!!!!!!!!!
You did an amazing job on every single aspect of this build. I'm working on a 1:72 Avro Lancaster right now, I'm wondering if you could tell me what you used to achieve the oil and exhaust stains?
Thank you very much! I sprayed on the exhaust stains with highly diluted paint (up to 80% thinner). Some dark grey, brown or black or a combination of multiple layers will do, just as you like. Low pressure (10-15psi) and 0.2mm nozzle. For the oil stains I used one of Vallejo Weathering Effects, can’t remember which one exactly, probably 73.813 Oil Stains or 73.814 Fuel Stains. These products are ready to use, I have a few of them and really like them. Hope this helps. Good luck with your Lanc! Cheers, Oliver/RWO
@@RWOModels Thank you so much! All of your info will help A LOT! Keep up the awesome work👌
You're welcome! Thanks!
Are these the type of bombers in the Joseph Heller book, Catch 22?
Yes, I think so (although I haven't actually read the novel or watched the film 😳). Thanks for watching!
super travail , il est magnifique
Nice job Sir 👍👍
Fantastic work!
Maybe mask of that Submariner when airbrushing?
Thank you! If you look closely you’ll see it’s not a Sub on my wrist. 😉 Actually been trying to buy one for some time now but as you may know these are very hard to get or they are sold for ridiculous prices. Thanks for watching!
Orginal plane was crashed 🙁. I have book about "Doolittle raid" , only one plane survived (Edward "Ski" York ) , witch landing near Vladivostok in USSR.
Thank you for sharing a beautiful aircraft and later I would like to challenge an aircraft propellers like you. :)
Top Ergebnis!!! Saubere Arbeit!!!
Vielen Dank! 🙂
A great beautiful job. 🤩🤩🤩
Thank you very much! 🙂
@@RWOModels 🤩🤩
Great build RWO. Well done sir. On a side note, can anyone please tell me what the black box was in the bomb bay instead of a fourth bomb? It was below the bomb above it, so I guess it’s something designed to be dropped...
As far as I know the planes carried three 500 lb high explosive bombs and one incendiary bomb. Thanks for watching!
RWO Models Ahhhh... thanks for that. I should have guessed.
I use mod podge to attach all of you clear parts drys crystal clear with no fog
Very good tip, thanks for sharing this! Cheers! :)
Sehr schönes Endergebnis, super Techniken, weiter so👍
Vielen Dank für den netten Kommentar, freut mich sehr! 👍🙂
@@RWOModels Aber für einen fortgeschritten Einsteiger ist das Ergebnis hunderttausend mal besser als das was ich nach knapp nem Jahr auf die Beine gestellt habe😂
Danke dir, Kurt! Ich habe den Luxus, sehr viel Zeit in das Hobby investieren zu können. Vor gar nicht allzu langer Zeit hätte ich mir selbst niemals zugetraut, solche Modelle zu bauen. Umso mehr freut es mich, dass ich so viele tolle Rückmeldungen bekomme und die Möglichkeit habe, den großen Spaß, den mir das Hobby macht, hier auf dem Kanal mich euch zu teilen. 🙂 Danke nochmals und viele Grüße, Oliver/RWO
very nice work just subscribed!
Good work.
Thank you!
Magic!
Thank you! 🙂
Amazing, good job
Thank you, appreciate it!
@@RWOModels all of your video are my favorite models too , but I don't have them so its very nice to look someone build your favorite model
Very nice and careful done! Looks great! ;)
Thank you for your kind comment!
Who manufactures your tweezers?
I use three different pairs of Tamiya HG tweezers and some very pointy cheap tweezers from Amazon. The Tamiya HG are quite expensive but a pleasure to work with. Thanks for watching!
Fantastic !!!!
Many thanks!!
another beauty
Is the landing gear capable of holding the whole plane?
Should be made of metal, anyway excellent job👍👍👍
Thank you! I also had my doubts regarding the stability of the landing gear, but it works if you don’t move it too much. 🙂
I m used to replacing some parts of the landing gear using Office clips, just to reinforce it, besides so much work deserve it
Dont you think?
Greetings from Chile
Hi Gustavo, I just checked again on my model, the landing gear legs bend a little when you push them but I don’t think it’s absolutely necessary to reinforce them. I would say it depends on how much you move your models around and how safely you can store them. 🙂 Most important advice would be to add as much weight to the nose and even to the front of the engine nacelles as possible to keep the model balanced. All the best from Germany, stay safe! Oliver/RWO
@@RWOModels ok...thank you bro you too stay safe and thanks for sharing your talent👍👍👍
You forgot the yellow tips on the props.
Thanks for watching. Please take a look here, no yellow prop tips on the planes:
commons.m.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:B-25_on_the_deck_of_USS_Hornet_during_Doolittle_Raid.jpg
commons.m.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:USS_Hornet_(CV-8)_with_USS_Gwin_(DD-433)_during_Doolittle_Raid_1942.jpg
Nice
I got the exact same kits and a b25 c
Very cool, which one will you build first? 🙂 Thanks for watching!
@@RWOModels built the b25b at the start of last year and the b25c in September last year
do you use go pro to shoot the vidieo?
Hi, I tested a GoPro style action cam but was not satisfied because of the image distortion and the overall quality of the recordings. It was no original GoPro cam though. I now use a mirrorless Panasonic Lumix G9 system camera mounted overhead on my main working desk. When airbrushing in my extractor booth I use my old iPhone mounted on a Manfrotto Magic Arm.
@@RWOModels thx
can you send me the mounting picture？
Why do you need black glove on the left hand?
It’s either to protect my fingers from paint, glue etc. or to prevent fingerprints or grease getting on sensitive parts. I had blue gloves before, now I have black ones. 🙂
there were no guns on the plane they had to replace them all with broomsticks painted black because it was too heavy for the plane to get off the carrier deck
Hervorragend!!!
Vielen Dank! :)
Очень круто👍🏻
Very Nice, I love 1/72 scale. Maybe consider silly putty for nose weight, it fits everywhere and won't attack the plastic. Great Job, Thank you. Jeff IPMS 31180