Simple, cheap, efficient. I think this is an ideal solution for small layouts. And, bonus : for me, it is more "realistic" in terms of operations : on small branchlines, industrial sidings, small stations... the points are thrown by the train crews in situ, using levers besides the point you need to throw.
You make some good points (pun not originally intended). I'm a bit of a technophobe, so anything that minimises the electrical side of things is fine by me.
Excellent video as always and as people have said before, it's so refreshing to see a channel about model railways showing that you don't have to spend a fortune to enjoy the hobby. If not already covered I would love to see a video about where to place power supply when you have points facing different directions. Keep up the excellent work!
Thanks, basically you would have to put a power feed into the other siding behind the point with an on off switch. I tend to avoid doing that with points for that reason
I tried wire in tube when I was younger, but in the end invented my own method which enables me to control my points from quite a long distance. I’ve used the method ever since I had my first Super 4 layout back in the ‘70’s! Then with the very early system 6 (with a slider). Basically, it’s useable with any point which has a locking spring. For Peco I drill two small holes through the baseboard - one at each end of the tie-bar. A loop of fine fishing line over each of the end studs of the tie bar. Down through the holes in the baseboard and off to the control position of the layout where they re-emerge through holes in a fascia board and are terminated by small colour coded beads. In my case green for straight, red for curved. The natural springiness of the fishing line coupled with the centre spring on the point make for a nice positive action. Any changes of direction needed in the under board fishing line runs just need a screw in eyelet for the fishing line to run in. Thoroughly reliable and possibly even cheaper than your method, and you’re not limited to direct straight on connection to the point at the edge of the baseboard. I’ve even used it with the line/beads emerging from a mimic track diagram on the control board (though it begins to look like a giant spiders web). Just my half penny’s worth…
Now I need to find a manual method for my current Dublo vintage three-rail layout with its lovely but very manual (!) mechanical points! Someway of persuading that lovely lever to respond in both directions to a pull on some fishing line, if anyone has an idea 💡
My father did the same thing on my 8x4 layout in the 70s after I left the previous layout on and a point caught fire. So I can confirm it works and was reliable.
Because of my bicycling background, I used Teflon lined gear brake cable housing. It's curable, but must be anchored at each end( glue works). The inner wire is picture frame hanging wire. Once I made a little bank of levers that pivoted on a threaded rod and separated with nuts. Always glad to see your work and your videos. Thank you.
That's a great idea for getting the points to change without messing around with point motors and all the extra wiring. My controller doesn't have an external power feed, so I'd have to find alternative power source. Fantastic if it can be sorted with 'wire-in-tube' technology. It's not great if one has a circular layout with points on the far side, but I guess it could be done. Nice helpful little video, thanks.
This little trick works really well with Atlas HO “Snap Switches” as well as their “Custom Line. With a hole in the center of the throw bar, you can run the control rod under the layout to the turn out. Simple, quick and positive. Their N scale switches can be controlled in the same way.
As expected…a very simple budget but effective solution from you! By way…re Peco points - Im building my first layout which is On30 narrow gauge and using Peco O-16.5 Narrow gauge track and 11 points. I sent my layout diagram to Peco’s technical department, and they very kindly showed me where all insulated rail joiners needed to go and all power dropper feeds. When I asked about any additional wiring needed for the points, I was told by their expert it’s absolutely not necessary! So I didn’t use any and everything seems to work fine! My layout has switchable DC and DCC options on its main loop and loco shed / siding. Still using your Budget Model Railways boxes for my PWM power module units. 👍
Your timing is perfect. :) Moving into a new home with a giant basement. I think for N scale, this is wonderful. Layouts are so compact, no need for machines. You touch on the reason to do this, but the biggest for me are the far side switches. Not reaching across delicate scenery to manual switch. There's also a very cool CHEAP option to do this idea, with servo and a cheap servo tester that has a nice little knob on it. You can manual make stops on the knob to limit the movement. Lots of cheap options. :) Have to check out your channel more. Been subscribed, but out of the hobby for a while.
Nice video as always! As an extra tip for those with layouts with elevation, you can make very cheap wire control for your points using brake wire cables from bicycles. Bit stiff, but can go around corners! Regarding Del Prado, I actually have one running! The French SNCF X3800 'Picasso' railcar fits in a Tomytec TM08 20m chassis with just a little bit of work. Been using it for ages like that.
Fantastic wee tip on something so simple and effective. Im still using the Kato easy track with the built in point switches. They work great but you can’t really use your method to switch them. Might be time to get some Peco track me thinks 😉
Your fuel gantry "mistake" is what we refer to as a "Bob Ross". It's a happy little accident that lets you make some lemonade from lemons, AKA having fun you didn't expect to have. (I like your point control very much.)
Just a thought. Well two!! Could you fill the gap between the oil terminal pltform and the backscene with something to represent some control boxes for the pipework? (Maybe simpler than a gantry?) The second thought is that fixing something like that to the backscene might be easier than attaching it to the 3d printed structure.
@@BudgetModelRailways yep.seen it Mike, I watch all your video a couple of times over... seeing it again that u done it in N too, its such a great and simple way... proper old skool... im not into all this DCC etc... 👍🏻 look forward to more updates buddy
I had a few of the del prado models a few years back. Not sure which would take a Kato chassis (at least without severe modification) but maybe aa tomytec EMU chassis could work?
Excellent update Mike. Just shows that sometimes the simplest way is the best way. As well as being cheaper. Thanks as always.
Thanks, hope all is good with you
Simple, cheap, efficient. I think this is an ideal solution for small layouts. And, bonus : for me, it is more "realistic" in terms of operations : on small branchlines, industrial sidings, small stations... the points are thrown by the train crews in situ, using levers besides the point you need to throw.
You make some good points (pun not originally intended). I'm a bit of a technophobe, so anything that minimises the electrical side of things is fine by me.
@@JagoHazzard same here
@@JagoHazzard hello Jago! Fancy meeting you here 🤣
Excellent video as always and as people have said before, it's so refreshing to see a channel about model railways showing that you don't have to spend a fortune to enjoy the hobby.
If not already covered I would love to see a video about where to place power supply when you have points facing different directions.
Keep up the excellent work!
Thanks, basically you would have to put a power feed into the other siding behind the point with an on off switch. I tend to avoid doing that with points for that reason
I tried wire in tube when I was younger, but in the end invented my own method which enables me to control my points from quite a long distance. I’ve used the method ever since I had my first Super 4 layout back in the ‘70’s! Then with the very early system 6 (with a slider).
Basically, it’s useable with any point which has a locking spring. For Peco I drill two small holes through the baseboard - one at each end of the tie-bar. A loop of fine fishing line over each of the end studs of the tie bar. Down through the holes in the baseboard and off to the control position of the layout where they re-emerge through holes in a fascia board and are terminated by small colour coded beads. In my case green for straight, red for curved. The natural springiness of the fishing line coupled with the centre spring on the point make for a nice positive action. Any changes of direction needed in the under board fishing line runs just need a screw in eyelet for the fishing line to run in. Thoroughly reliable and possibly even cheaper than your method, and you’re not limited to direct straight on connection to the point at the edge of the baseboard. I’ve even used it with the line/beads emerging from a mimic track diagram on the control board (though it begins to look like a giant spiders web). Just my half penny’s worth…
Sounds interesting
Now I need to find a manual method for my current Dublo vintage three-rail layout with its lovely but very manual (!) mechanical points! Someway of persuading that lovely lever to respond in both directions to a pull on some fishing line, if anyone has an idea 💡
My father did the same thing on my 8x4 layout in the 70s after I left the previous layout on and a point caught fire. So I can confirm it works and was reliable.
Now THAT'S what I call a well used cutting mat!😅. Great video, very useful tip, thanks for uploading.
You should see my large one lol
Because of my bicycling background, I used Teflon lined gear brake cable housing. It's curable, but must be anchored at each end( glue works). The inner wire is picture frame hanging wire. Once I made a little bank of levers that pivoted on a threaded rod and separated with nuts. Always glad to see your work and your videos. Thank you.
@@ericjohnson3746 sounds very impressive
That's a great idea for getting the points to change without messing around with point motors and all the extra wiring. My controller doesn't have an external power feed, so I'd have to find alternative power source. Fantastic if it can be sorted with 'wire-in-tube' technology. It's not great if one has a circular layout with points on the far side, but I guess it could be done. Nice helpful little video, thanks.
This little trick works really well with Atlas HO “Snap Switches” as well as their “Custom Line. With a hole in the center of the throw bar, you can run the control rod under the layout to the turn out. Simple, quick and positive. Their N scale switches can be controlled in the same way.
@@johnbeck3270 good to know thanks
This so beautifully simple, thanks for showing this. Thanks for all your efforts!
Regards to all!
@@thunderccr5056 thanks for the support
As expected…a very simple budget but effective solution from you! By way…re Peco points - Im building my first layout which is On30 narrow gauge and using Peco O-16.5 Narrow gauge track and 11 points. I sent my layout diagram to Peco’s technical department, and they very kindly showed me where all insulated rail joiners needed to go and all power dropper feeds. When I asked about any additional wiring needed for the points, I was told by their expert it’s absolutely not necessary! So I didn’t use any and everything seems to work fine! My layout has switchable DC and DCC options on its main loop and loco shed / siding. Still using your Budget Model Railways boxes for my PWM power module units. 👍
Good to hear peco were so helpful, and confirmed about the point wiring
Good video as I have clumsy hands and get confused by wiring. Keep it simple always works for me>
It's been working very reliably, even with my ten thumbs lol
Nice update on old way to do things, thanks for bringing it back.
Your timing is perfect. :) Moving into a new home with a giant basement. I think for N scale, this is wonderful. Layouts are so compact, no need for machines. You touch on the reason to do this, but the biggest for me are the far side switches. Not reaching across delicate scenery to manual switch. There's also a very cool CHEAP option to do this idea, with servo and a cheap servo tester that has a nice little knob on it. You can manual make stops on the knob to limit the movement. Lots of cheap options. :) Have to check out your channel more. Been subscribed, but out of the hobby for a while.
Nice video as always! As an extra tip for those with layouts with elevation, you can make very cheap wire control for your points using brake wire cables from bicycles. Bit stiff, but can go around corners!
Regarding Del Prado, I actually have one running! The French SNCF X3800 'Picasso' railcar fits in a Tomytec TM08 20m chassis with just a little bit of work. Been using it for ages like that.
Love the video, thank you for sharing all your tips & tricks with us all, cheers, Pete.👍
Glad you enjoyed it
Love the simplicity of it!
Hello, another great video,I have used a wire with a tube for the points they were metal ones and they worked a treat.but your idea seems better.
Have you done any of these in a longer version that goes under track, e.g. to points on an inner line?
@@gerrybeimers2469 yes but using 3d filament as rods, and 3d printer feed tubes. These could be curved and fitted under OO track
Simple is good. Nothing more to say 🤨. As always, thanks for the innovation.
My pleasure 😊
Your way looks fantastic, excellent method
Thanks
Nicely done. Thank you for sharing and the demonstration.
Very clever! Simple and effective.
Thank you!
Interesting remote point set up. I may use drinking straws as tubes.
Maybe use a wagon, or tender body to push with a del prado loco.
Fantastic wee tip on something so simple and effective. Im still using the Kato easy track with the built in point switches. They work great but you can’t really use your method to switch them. Might be time to get some Peco track me thinks 😉
@@andygorman858 I love the Peco points. Peco are shorter and cheaper, both have their uses
great update on layout mike keep up the great vlogs you do thanks lee
Thanks, will do!
Simple and effective. Of course, the "experts" will go apoplectic over it...
I hope so lol
Great idea, thank you for sharing.
Your fuel gantry "mistake" is what we refer to as a "Bob Ross". It's a happy little accident that lets you make some lemonade from lemons, AKA having fun you didn't expect to have. (I like your point control very much.)
Spot on thanks
Just a thought. Well two!! Could you fill the gap between the oil terminal pltform and the backscene with something to represent some control boxes for the pipework? (Maybe simpler than a gantry?) The second thought is that fixing something like that to the backscene might be easier than attaching it to the 3d printed structure.
@@johnhindson5316 thanks for the suggestions , I have a couple of options, I'm sure I can bodge something lol
Not sure about Kato chassis, but I think I’ve seen people use Tomix or Tomytec chassies with the Del Prado static locos
Defo gonna do this when I make my 00 version... ❤
I have a video on doing it in OO if that helps
@@BudgetModelRailways yep.seen it Mike, I watch all your video a couple of times over... seeing it again that u done it in N too, its such a great and simple way... proper old skool... im not into all this DCC etc... 👍🏻 look forward to more updates buddy
Good idea, can I ask would u attach the wire with the points set for a straight run , or if ur going off to a curve , if that makes sense rgds dave
@@davetanner9133 it's trial and error I guess, if it's in a curve then a bit of wriggle room might be an idea
👍
Thank you!
I had a few of the del prado models a few years back. Not sure which would take a Kato chassis (at least without severe modification) but maybe aa tomytec EMU chassis could work?
I'm buildng a small layout so this would be ideal as 90% of my points are all on one side
2mm PVC hose buy it buy the 1000 feet of them i use it for airline air gates in milking parlors
Teflon 3d printer filament guide - cheap and self lubricating.
@@fraserhardmetal7143 I have used that in the past
I use unrolled paper clips with the points, as they, like yours, are on one side.
Nice one
Thanks for the video Mike, thinking about this the other night, very affective!!😎🚂🚃🚃🚃🇬🇧
Your tubes look a lot like Cotton Bud stems to me. Never heard of roofing felt underlay before!
@@ajivins1 we have used roofing felt very successfully for a number of years, inc at exhibitions
@@BudgetModelRailways And you just glue the ballast to that?
@@ajivins1 I don't use ballast, that's the point of ballast mat
@@BudgetModelRailways It doesn't just stay that shiny black though?
@@ajivins1 yes, although if I can get it I use grey roofing felt which is better