Morning Steve. Well it just shows what you can manage in your own workshop. All you need are a few tools ,oh ,and a wealth of knowledge!! Must say Phil's bodywork looked very sharp with paintwork to match. I'll be happy if mine looks the same . It was nice to see wooden blocks protecting the chassis. Great stuff and look forward to your next class.
@@SteveDentonClassics Yes, l noticed the under body . It appeared to be colour over anti-chip. I intend mine to be coloured only. To that end l have given it 3 coats of epoxy resin primer which l will flat back before colouring. Originally the cars were not undersealed , simply coloured. I will also finish the chassis to a similar standard. But first l have to finish this MK lX. It's a killer! 😨😨😨
You'll get there John, my attitude with it is, the cars rarely go out in bad weather therefore weatherproofing isn't as important, but all of mine are undersealed regardless
Doing engine rebuild on my 76 TR6. Waiting for shop to return block and head. Thanx for your videos, great help, just backwards sometimes, hehe. Cheers!
Great video, it's something I did late last year on mine, was really bothering me that I'd not done it sooner, but all went well and was piece of mind. Looking forward to your next video.
Hi Steve. Job well done. An old guy told that on old Triumph engines never to start the engine with the clutch pressed down. That will lead to wear of the thrust washer.
@@SteveDentonClassics An old man told me never start an MG engine whilst wearing Y-Front underpants, otherwise No. 3 piston will explode. Old wives tales mate!!!
@@SteveDentonClassics Mayby i forgot to mention that pressing the clutch and starting the engine when there's no oil pressure could in the long run lead to wear. Sorry i forgot to mention that. And the underpant story was also news to me :-)
Hi Steve, Great video, just what ive been looking for. I have removed my sump as the car had been standing for a long time and have been advised to replace the trust washers to the rear bearing. As i have the sump off can i take measuremnets at this location rather than remove the radiator etc as you did in the video.
Hi Steve. From Connecticut, USA. I have a ‘71 that I suspect the thrust washers need replacement. Do you need to pull out the rad for the actual replacement, or was that just to get an accurate end float measurement? Thanks for your videos. Austin.
Hi Austin, taking the radiator out is just to get a DTI gauge in so you can accurately measure the end float, and is the general way of doing the job. However if you have the sump off, there is no reason you couldn't stick a DTI gauge to the underneath the cylinder block and measure the end float on one of the crack.shaft webs, this would see no need to remove the radiator. Cheers Steve
Cheers Ritesh. First of all with this job you must measure what your end float is, then check what thrust washers came out, and how worn they are. Then measure the ones that came out against a new set, once fitted you must re check the end float. In Phil's case he had standard thrust washers that were worn out casing too much end float. New standard size thrush washers were thick enough to take up the end float. Over sizing thrust washers are there for when the wear is greater than standard, again you must measure what you need. No end float is as bad as too much end float. It is really important to get the end float within tolerance, So measure and re checking your measurements is the name of the game with this job 👍
You don’t need to take off your sump to check the end float, just measure it with a dti gauge like I did on the video. You only remove the sump to replace the thrust washers 👍🏻
Hi Steve, I have a TR6 1971 PI, I have a real problem selecting gears and wonder if you have any diagnosis tips. I recently had Mr. Clutch install new Master and slave cylinders, but it's still difficult to get into gear especially if in neutral at the lights, sometimes in need to turn the engine off, select 1st hold my foot on the clutch and then start the ignition, any ideas?
Hi Paul, you need to start with the basics when looking at the clutch on a TR6 and why it won't go into gear. So starting with the pedal, are the pedal bushes ok, then moving onto the clevis pin joining the pedal to the clutch master, they have a habit of elongating, 50 years of wear will cause this, simple fix weld up the pedal pivot and redill it for the clevis pin to be the correct size. Has the clutch been bleed fully? That's easy enough to do yourself, and how does the clutch pedel feel? if its spongy and low then it most likely needs a good bleed. Is there a leak? You say you have a new master and slave, but is there a leak from the flexi? It's worth checking I've seen it before. Then do you have the push rod connected correctly and to the correct place on the side of the gearbox. (adjustable ones are available from Moss and I do fit them) Then after this it's getting your hands dirty. You'll need to check the condition of the cross shaft bushes, they too wear and can cause a heavy/ difficult to engage clutch, you can see this just without taken the dog house out. After this you may have to remove the dog house and gearbox. The TR6 suffers with the clutch folk to cross shaft bolt sheering. This can cause you to sometimes get gears then sometimes not, again I've seen this happen. It's worth checking the condition of the clutch thrush bearing while the gearbox it out, again I've seen them disintegrate and cause no first gear change, and hard to get into any other gears. And lastly the clutch itself maybe just worn out, and may need to be replaced. TRGB and Moss Europe are the best suppliers for the parts. I hope following the steps you find out whats wrong with your car. Always remember basics first and go from there. All the best Steve 👍
Cheers mate, pushing the clutch pedal down will force the crankshaft forwards and you’ll struggle to get a reading. You can however do a visual check and get someone else to pump the clutch while you look at the crankshaft pully for excessive movement. But the only way you’ll get a true reading is the way I do it in the video. Cheers Steve
Hi Steve, your videos are great, but I find the music pretty distracting, however I don't want to mute in case I miss some important dialogue. I personally would rather just listen to spanners and chit chat and swearing :-). wonder if you've had similar feedback?
@@terryatpi That would be correct end float for your camshaft 👍 The crankshaft is a little tighter at 0.006 - 0.008 in (0.1524 - 0.2032 mm) figures quoted from TR6 Repair Operators Manual 12.21.26 👍
Morning Steve. Well it just shows what you can manage in your own workshop. All you need are a few tools ,oh ,and a wealth of knowledge!! Must say Phil's bodywork looked very sharp with paintwork to match. I'll be happy if mine looks the same . It was nice to see wooden blocks protecting the chassis. Great stuff and look forward to your next class.
Cheers John, Phil TR6 is also red on all the body panels underneath the car. It's one of the nicest restored TR6's I've ever seen or worked on
@@SteveDentonClassics Yes, l noticed the under body . It appeared to be colour over anti-chip. I intend mine to be coloured only. To that end l have given it 3 coats of epoxy resin primer which l will flat back before colouring. Originally the cars were not undersealed , simply coloured. I will also finish the chassis to a similar standard. But first l have to finish this MK lX. It's a killer! 😨😨😨
You'll get there John, my attitude with it is, the cars rarely go out in bad weather therefore weatherproofing isn't as important, but all of mine are undersealed regardless
@@johndavey72 It's actually colour over anti-chip under the wheelarches and just body colour everywhere else underneath.
@@johndavey72 Colour over anti chip in the wheelarches and body colour everywhere else underneath.
Thanks Steve and Phil. You have certainly taken the fear out of the fearsome thrust washer.
Your welcome Graham, like anything if you just take your time over doing a job you'll always get the right results
Doing engine rebuild on my 76 TR6. Waiting for shop to return block and head. Thanx for your videos, great help, just backwards sometimes, hehe. Cheers!
You’re welcome, glade my videos are of some help to you 👍🏻
Great video, it's something I did late last year on mine, was really bothering me that I'd not done it sooner, but all went well and was piece of mind. Looking forward to your next video.
Cheers mate, yeah it's the weakest point of the Triumph push rod engine. Best to be kept in check and had a look at for wear every few years
Thanks Steve! You made the video I asked about!!
No probs mate, the'll be many more to come
@@SteveDentonClassics Time for me to get a DTI and do mine on the GT6.
Good stuff, it makes me happy to think that my video is helping you with your GT6
Great work guys I shall be checking the play on my car now. Thanks
Awesome stuff
thanks for the confidence, now if things aren't to ground down i can DIY
You're welcome 👍
Hi Steve. Job well done.
An old guy told that on old Triumph engines never to start the engine with the clutch pressed down.
That will lead to wear of the thrust washer.
I never knew that, goes to show every day you learn something new
@@SteveDentonClassics An old man told me never start an MG engine whilst wearing Y-Front underpants, otherwise No. 3 piston will explode. Old wives tales mate!!!
Hahaha that did make me laugh!!
@@SteveDentonClassics Mayby i forgot to mention that pressing the clutch and starting the engine when there's no oil pressure could in the long run lead to wear.
Sorry i forgot to mention that.
And the underpant story was also news to me :-)
Hi Steve,
Great video, just what ive been looking for. I have removed my sump as the car had been standing for a long time and have been advised to replace the trust washers to the rear bearing. As i have the sump off can i take measuremnets at this location rather than remove the radiator etc as you did in the video.
Yes, you can just put the dti gauge on one of the webs on the crankshaft and stick the magnet side of it to the block to take the measurements 👍🏻
@@SteveDentonClassics Thanks appreciate the advice.
Hi Steve. From Connecticut, USA. I have a ‘71 that I suspect the thrust washers need replacement. Do you need to pull out the rad for the actual replacement, or was that just to get an accurate end float measurement? Thanks for your videos. Austin.
Hi Austin, taking the radiator out is just to get a DTI gauge in so you can accurately measure the end float, and is the general way of doing the job. However if you have the sump off, there is no reason you couldn't stick a DTI gauge to the underneath the cylinder block and measure the end float on one of the crack.shaft webs, this would see no need to remove the radiator. Cheers Steve
Thank you for empowering me on tackling this job, If this was never done on my TR6 or Spitfire would you recommend going with next size up TW?
Cheers Ritesh. First of all with this job you must measure what your end float is, then check what thrust washers came out, and how worn they are. Then measure the ones that came out against a new set, once fitted you must re check the end float. In Phil's case he had standard thrust washers that were worn out casing too much end float. New standard size thrush washers were thick enough to take up the end float. Over sizing thrust washers are there for when the wear is greater than standard, again you must measure what you need. No end float is as bad as too much end float. It is really important to get the end float within tolerance, So measure and re checking your measurements is the name of the game with this job 👍
@@SteveDentonClassics Thank you, I'll take off the sump and measure the end float.
You don’t need to take off your sump to check the end float, just measure it with a dti gauge like I did on the video. You only remove the sump to replace the thrust washers 👍🏻
Hi Steve, I have a TR6 1971 PI, I have a real problem selecting gears and wonder if you have any diagnosis tips. I recently had Mr. Clutch install new Master and slave cylinders, but it's still difficult to get into gear especially if in neutral at the lights, sometimes in need to turn the engine off, select 1st hold my foot on the clutch and then start the ignition, any ideas?
Hi Paul, you need to start with the basics when looking at the clutch on a TR6 and why it won't go into gear. So starting with the pedal, are the pedal bushes ok, then moving onto the clevis pin joining the pedal to the clutch master, they have a habit of elongating, 50 years of wear will cause this, simple fix weld up the pedal pivot and redill it for the clevis pin to be the correct size. Has the clutch been bleed fully? That's easy enough to do yourself, and how does the clutch pedel feel? if its spongy and low then it most likely needs a good bleed. Is there a leak? You say you have a new master and slave, but is there a leak from the flexi? It's worth checking I've seen it before. Then do you have the push rod connected correctly and to the correct place on the side of the gearbox. (adjustable ones are available from Moss and I do fit them) Then after this it's getting your hands dirty. You'll need to check the condition of the cross shaft bushes, they too wear and can cause a heavy/ difficult to engage clutch, you can see this just without taken the dog house out. After this you may have to remove the dog house and gearbox. The TR6 suffers with the clutch folk to cross shaft bolt sheering. This can cause you to sometimes get gears then sometimes not, again I've seen this happen. It's worth checking the condition of the clutch thrush bearing while the gearbox it out, again I've seen them disintegrate and cause no first gear change, and hard to get into any other gears. And lastly the clutch itself maybe just worn out, and may need to be replaced. TRGB and Moss Europe are the best suppliers for the parts. I hope following the steps you find out whats wrong with your car. Always remember basics first and go from there. All the best Steve 👍
@@SteveDentonClassics Steve, Thanks for your response, it has given me some starting tips for further investigation, much appreciated.
No probs and you're welcome 👍
Hi Steve, great video. I thought the thrust washers needed to measured with clutch pedal down?
Cheers mate, pushing the clutch pedal down will force the crankshaft forwards and you’ll struggle to get a reading. You can however do a visual check and get someone else to pump the clutch while you look at the crankshaft pully for excessive movement. But the only way you’ll get a true reading is the way I do it in the video. Cheers Steve
@@SteveDentonClassics Excellent. On my checklist. Thanks again
Your welcome!
Hi Steve, how long roughly did this job take? I’ve got to do it on my 2.5Pi which is similar block to TR6.
It's a good mornings work. The longest part of the job is cleaning up the sump and block from the old gasket 👍
Hi Steve, your videos are great, but I find the music pretty distracting, however I don't want to mute in case I miss some important dialogue. I personally would rather just listen to spanners and chit chat and swearing :-). wonder if you've had similar feedback?
It's one of them, your never going to please everyone
Why not use imperial?
The gauge I have is in metric, and we know measurement in metric, so providing its within the tolerance given, it won’t really make much odds
@@SteveDentonClassics ok. In Tolerance is .004 to .008. Inch. Ty
@@terryatpi That would be correct end float for your camshaft 👍 The crankshaft is a little tighter at 0.006 - 0.008 in (0.1524 - 0.2032 mm) figures quoted from TR6 Repair Operators Manual 12.21.26 👍
@@SteveDentonClassics oh! Ok. Ty. Going to check it out before first spring drive. Ty
@@terryatpi Yeah makes sense, it’s the only real weak spot of the TR bullet proof engine 👍
Hey matey
Drop me a message if you can
Have a rally for you and friends to attend, if youd like
Defo mate, I'll text ya later