Love this video and really like your overview on the 150 Kakadu (KDSS issues) suspension setup. Just thought I’d give you a rundown on what I’ve done to mine which I have tweaked/modified over that last 5 years. I have a 2010 Kakadu 150 which was actually build December 2009 (first of these cars). I do a lot of towing and touring around Western Australia and because of this, modifying the suspension setup was mandatory for my application. I had a few issues but I was able to overcome them through trial and error. Below is what I have done to get it perfect (for my application). Suspension Setup: - 2” struts in the front with Kings springs (right side spring slightly longer) - 6mm strut spacers applied to the strut top - removed airbags in the rear and replaced with King Springs coils This makes the car completely level and makes it unreal off-road. I have also just ordered a set of airbag man rear bags to place inside the springs that will be modified to allow the factory compressor to inflate and deflate them using either the factor or aftermarket switch. I can keep you updated if you would like with the process/changes needed to make this work. Again thanks for the video I love watching all your content.
The standard OME 150 Kackadu rear shocks were cheap as chips from Toyota. Watched your vid and put them in myself. The fronts are very expensive, haven't done those yet, and a bit more work. But they're not leaking and seem still ok with 120k on it. By sticking to the standard I keep my adustment settings auto compressor etc. and reliability. We do 99% on road and the odd bit of soft camping, when Covid permits. So when my fronts need doing I'm going to fork out for the OME shocks. No bull bar no dual Battery etc. Good advice thanks Anthony.👍
Great video mate you made my decision a lot easier i have a 2016 kakado 150 i will be waiting for the air bags for the 8yrs and check them raise the back no more than 10ml 30 - 20 front. You made it so easy. P.S i watched your other video and saved it under favourites. Keep up the great work and the comments
Fitted the dobinsons ims and c24 like you recommended in the front. Tricked the bags with spacers, about 7mm of spacers. Just put new rear shocks in from a 2020 gel, and paid 50 bucks for em!!! Rides awesome!!!!
Hey Anthony, thanks for all the videos! After watching the suspension videos through I went ahead with Dobinsons C59-726 springs (vehicle has TJM T13 bar and TJM synthetic rope winch) and IMS59-50700 shocks on my 2010 Kakadu V6. In case it's useful to anyone out there, I am posting my results. From Dobinsons the distance from centre of the hole at bottom of shock to bottom of spring seat was 215mm on passenger side, and 230mm on drivers side. This was set for a target lift of 40mm. Post install, ended up with 810mm on drivers side and 830mm on passenger side measured from bottom of the rim to bottom of the guard -- way too high. Dropped the spring seats on drivers side 10mm and passenger side 20mm in an attempt to attain 790mm on both sides ie 40mm lift. After the above, ended up with 785mm on drivers side and 815mm on passenger side. For reference the rear is sitting at 775mm drivers side and 810mm passenger side. I am curious to see when it's leveled out if the front ends up 785mm on both sides, or "averages out" under KDSS adjustment to 800mm. Has anyone out there worked out the answer to this? Currently playing with KDSS system to get it level, will post an update.
Hi I just installed Dobinsons 2 inch lift on a 2016 Toyota Prado 150 Kakadu but I have a problem with check headlight system warning sign on after the installation… No one is able to disable the warning sign.. Do you know how to turn off the warning sign…
Have new Kakadu 2021 replaced front springs to bring it back to factory height after adding battery bullbar and winch now have a 25mm lean. tried everything. adjusted airbag sensors, makes no difference. Lifting car from towbar shows level front suspension. Can get it back to 10mm bleeding kdss system, within a couple of days it is back to the 25mm lean down on the drivers side. Any suggestions other then selling the car.
You should remove the front sway bar when doing the front springs, as per factory manual. I'd also recommend loosening the LCA bolts (marking you camber adjustments) and then tightening it on the ground, then getting a realignment. If it still leans, then a small 5mm spacer on the front left side strut. This additional preload on the left side will pull the front kdss cylinder out and allow the rear cylinder to push back in, removing the lean. Equalising the system (opening the shutter valves) won't do SFA for the lean, they are used to allow the fluid to move freely when playing with the suspension. Bleeding the system actually involves Toyota with a special high pressure pump, at 700psi and more fluid. If you haven't got the warning light, it's likely not a problem.
Love this video and really like your overview on the 150 Kakadu (KDSS issues) suspension setup. Just thought I’d give you a rundown on what I’ve done to mine which I have tweaked/modified over that last 5 years. I have a 2010 Kakadu 150 which was actually build December 2009 (first of these cars). I do a lot of towing and touring around Western Australia and because of this, modifying the suspension setup was mandatory for my application. I had a few issues but I was able to overcome them through trial and error. Below is what I have done to get it perfect (for my application).
Suspension Setup:
- 2” struts in the front with Kings springs (right side spring slightly longer)
- 6mm strut spacers applied to the strut top
- removed airbags in the rear and replaced with King Springs coils
This makes the car completely level and makes it unreal off-road. I have also just ordered a set of airbag man rear bags to place inside the springs that will be modified to allow the factory compressor to inflate and deflate them using either the factor or aftermarket switch. I can keep you updated if you would like with the process/changes needed to make this work.
Again thanks for the video I love watching all your content.
The standard OME 150 Kackadu rear shocks were cheap as chips from Toyota. Watched your vid and put them in myself. The fronts are very expensive, haven't done those yet, and a bit more work. But they're not leaking and seem still ok with 120k on it. By sticking to the standard I keep my adustment settings auto compressor etc. and reliability. We do 99% on road and the odd bit of soft camping, when Covid permits. So when my fronts need doing I'm going to fork out for the OME shocks. No bull bar no dual Battery etc. Good advice thanks Anthony.👍
Great video mate you made my decision a lot easier i have a 2016 kakado 150 i will be waiting for the air bags for the 8yrs and check them raise the back no more than 10ml 30 - 20 front. You made it so easy. P.S i watched your other video and saved it under favourites. Keep up the great work and the comments
Fitted the dobinsons ims and c24 like you recommended in the front. Tricked the bags with spacers, about 7mm of spacers. Just put new rear shocks in from a 2020 gel, and paid 50 bucks for em!!! Rides awesome!!!!
Are you in Sydney? May I know where can I have it done like you
I wanted to trick rear airbag sensor and only change front suspension
Hey Anthony, thanks for all the videos! After watching the suspension videos through I went ahead with Dobinsons C59-726 springs (vehicle has TJM T13 bar and TJM synthetic rope winch) and IMS59-50700 shocks on my 2010 Kakadu V6.
In case it's useful to anyone out there, I am posting my results.
From Dobinsons the distance from centre of the hole at bottom of shock to bottom of spring seat was 215mm on passenger side, and 230mm on drivers side. This was set for a target lift of 40mm.
Post install, ended up with 810mm on drivers side and 830mm on passenger side measured from bottom of the rim to bottom of the guard -- way too high.
Dropped the spring seats on drivers side 10mm and passenger side 20mm in an attempt to attain 790mm on both sides ie 40mm lift.
After the above, ended up with 785mm on drivers side and 815mm on passenger side.
For reference the rear is sitting at 775mm drivers side and 810mm passenger side.
I am curious to see when it's leveled out if the front ends up 785mm on both sides, or "averages out" under KDSS adjustment to 800mm. Has anyone out there worked out the answer to this?
Currently playing with KDSS system to get it level, will post an update.
I really love to not get involved with anything Kdss these days headaches run run run
Hi I just installed Dobinsons 2 inch lift on a 2016 Toyota Prado 150 Kakadu but I have a problem with check headlight system warning sign on after the installation…
No one is able to disable the warning sign.. Do you know how to turn off the warning sign…
Have new Kakadu 2021 replaced front springs to bring it back to factory height after adding battery bullbar and winch now have a 25mm lean. tried everything. adjusted airbag sensors, makes no difference. Lifting car from towbar shows level front suspension. Can get it back to 10mm bleeding kdss system, within a couple of days it is back to the 25mm lean down on the drivers side. Any suggestions other then selling the car.
Hawkesbury 4x4 Suspension fixed mine!
add a ten mm spacer on the front low side front strut.
You should remove the front sway bar when doing the front springs, as per factory manual. I'd also recommend loosening the LCA bolts (marking you camber adjustments) and then tightening it on the ground, then getting a realignment. If it still leans, then a small 5mm spacer on the front left side strut. This additional preload on the left side will pull the front kdss cylinder out and allow the rear cylinder to push back in, removing the lean. Equalising the system (opening the shutter valves) won't do SFA for the lean, they are used to allow the fluid to move freely when playing with the suspension. Bleeding the system actually involves Toyota with a special high pressure pump, at 700psi and more fluid. If you haven't got the warning light, it's likely not a problem.